Guide to men's tailoring, Volume I E-Book

Sven Jungclaus

• Herausgeber: Books on Demand
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Seitenzahl: 87

Beschreibung

Step by step to self-sewn men's clothing. You quickly learn to sew - but tailoring requires passion, dedication and perseverance. Similar to learning an instrument, dexterity and an eye for the essentials must be trained. The step-by-step instructions in this book with numerous photos and drawings lead safely to the finished garment. Detailed explanations ensure that you always have an overview and that the individual working steps are carried out in the correct order; different processing variants leave room for individuality. Absolute beginners may need a little more patience than experienced - but with the tips and tricks provided by master tailor Sven Jungclaus and a little practice, the first successes can be achieved quickly. Those who proudly hold the self-sewn piece in their hands, easily find the courage for further tailoring projects.

Leseprobe

Content

Preface

Tools for sewing

The basic hand stitches

The shirt

Cutting the shirt

Sewing the back darts and front edge

Attaching the back yoke

The sleeve vents

Closing the shoulder seam

Closing the side seam

Sewing the cuffs

Stitch-up the hem

The buttonholes for shirts

Sewing the collar

Attaching the collar

The trousers

Cutting the trousers

Cutting and preparing the extras

Tacking and form pressing

Basting the front lining

The jetted back pockets

Preparing the fly

The eyelet buttonholes for the fly

The jetted front pockets

Closing the outside seam

Attaching the waistband

Pressing in the hook and sewing the right fly

Closing the inside seam

Joining together the trousers' legs

The length without turn-up

Pressing the trousers

Attaching the buttons

The vest

Cutting the vest

Tacking the front

Cutting the interlining

Sewing the darts

Form pressing the front

Basting the front

Sewing the back for the fitting

Preparing the vest for the first fitting

The front edge

The jetted pockets

The lining for the front

Sewing the back lining

Joining together the front and back

The buckle strap

Sink stitching the edges

Sewing the buttonholes

Pressing the vest

Attaching the buttons

Extras

Trousers with slanted pockets

Zipper at the fly

The turn-up for trousers

The welted pockets for the vest

Appendix

Templates

Index

Abbreviations and technical terms

Dealers and manufacturer list

It all starts here ...

Bespoke tailoring is nothing for beginners. On the other hand, at some point everybody started. The important thing is not to be afraid of undoing a seam and preserving patience and perseverance. In between, you can almost despair that nothing works as you would like. But at some point, the knot comes off, and you wonder why it took so long. Tailoring is not about being exceptionally fast. It is more important to work very neatly and accurate. The speed then comes by itself.

Practice creates masters

Especially at the beginning, you should not be satisfied with average results, but always try to improve. A tailor's apprentice does hundreds of buttonholes, piping pockets, and more, until they become even, tidy, and perfect.

Train your hands and eyes

With each pocket and buttonhole, you gain more skills. The eye can then recognize the difference between 4 and 5 mm. Finally, the hands and eyes have to be trained for this craft.

A craft is not learned in an afternoon

For tailoring, you should take your time. Sewing something in between can work, but then it usually looks like this. Especially at the beginning, you always have to keep the goal in mind, and like chess, you have to think several steps in advance, because every action has a consequence. And if you notice the error after five more steps, the correction is even more troublesome.

Think first, then start

Each chapter has countless steps whose order is significant for success.

Therefore, it is essential for the first sewing attempts to deal with the topic, to read the whole chapter, to think about it and, if necessary, to reread it until you have understood it theoretically. Only then does it make sense to venture into practice. Otherwise you can easily overlook something, forget it and in the end almost despair because everything has to be taken apart again.

Just do not lose heart

Anyone who has certain motor skills can tailor. You just have to start; the rest comes with repetition.

Have fun, endurance and patience while tailoring!

Tools for sewing

1

Sewing tools

1 Buttonhole spring punch

2 Phillips screwdriver

3 Clothes brush

4 Gauge

5 Pins

6 Sewing needles

7 Bonefolder

8 Awl

9 Basting thread

10 French chalk

11 Sublimating chalk

12 Tape measure

13 Waist tape measure

14 Thimble

15 Scissors

16 Shears

17 Chalk sharpener

18 Pinking shears

2

Useful tools

1 Small french curve

2 Big french curve

3 Armhole template

4 various cardboard templates according to your needs

3

The ironing tools

1 Sleeve board

2 Torso pressing pad

3 Shoulder pressing pad

4 Ironing board for edges / clapper

5 Steam iron

6 Spray bottle

7 Heavy dry iron

8 Ironing cloth

9 Beeswax

Hand sewing

Tailor tacking part 1

This transfers the chalk marks to the right side of the fabric and the other piece of cloth. First, loosely pinch with a double thread and cut open the stitches.

Tailor tacking part 2

Then carefully cut between the pieces of cloth. At the end, cut off the protruding threads. See also tacking the vest (p. 81).

Basting

For a quick connection, fixing and securing of 2 or more layers of cloth.

Pad stitching

For a permanent connection of 2 or more layers of cloth and canvas. Mainly used for the canvas itself (horsehair), under collars and lapels.

Blind stitching

For sewing in the lining. But it can also be useful in other places.

For

elastic seams such, e.g. the buttocks seam. But can also be used for all other seams, if you want to do it without the sewing machine.

Prick stitch

Is often used as decorative stitching for sewing in the lining. Unlike sink stitching, a nodule should be visible.

Quick sinking stitch

For places that are not obvious, such as, e.g. hem edges and back vents.

Carefully sewn sinking stitch part 1

For edges, lapels, flaps and other things, so that they remain flat and do not swell due to moisture.

Carefully sewn sinking stitch part 2

This variant is a bit more elaborate but gives a lovely stitch pattern on both sides.

Cross stitch

This stitch is not used very often but still is very important in some places.

Hemstitch

As the name indicates, it is suitable for fixing hems. Unlike the cross-stitch, the seam allowance is not visible on the right side when ironing flat.

4

The shirt

Cutting the shirt

Before cutting, it is essential to wash the fabric - which is usually made of cotton or linen - in the washing machine with the gentle or wool program at 30° C. The fabric can shrink significantly. With prewashing, the collar fits even after processing and when the shirt is rewashed.

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

The cutting

Pictures 5/6

When cutting the shirt, you do not necessarily have to pay attention to the threading, unless you work with corduroy, flannel or something similar.

For white fabrics, it is advisable to draw the cutting parts carefully with a thin, soft pencil. These marks will be removed with the next washing.

The back darts

Picture 7

With pins, the dart is transferred and retraced to the other side.

Picture 8

Then the darts are folded at the dart-center-line and pressed.

Picture 9

When stitching, the seam must be locked at the beginning and the end (sewing back and forth). After that, the darts are ironed flat in the direction of the side seam.

The lower flap

Picture 10

The edge of the right front part - the lower flap - is first folded by 1 cm and ironed flat, then folded by 3 cm and ironed flat to the wrong side of the fabric.

To reinforce the lower flap, for holding the buttons, a strip of adhesive interlining can be added inside. Now the lower flap is sewn from the back very narrow to the edge (about 1-2 mm).

The button bar

Picture 11

The edge of the left front piece, the button bar, is folded and ironed twice by 3 cm. The cutting edge has to lie exactly in the fold. To reinforce the button bar, a strip of adhesive interlining can be added inside.

Then the edge is stitched by approx. 5 mm.

After that, the front part is folded back and ironed flat.

For symmetry, the button bar is also stitched on the other side by approx. 5 mm.

Picture 12

Left and right finished edges placed side by side.

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20

The back yoke

Picture 13

First, the inner back yoke is placed on the back. Facing the right fabric side of the yoke onto the left side of the back part and stitched with a narrow seam (0.5 cm).

Picture 14

Then the outer back yoke is stitched with a regular wide seam (0.75 cm) on the back, facing the right fabric side of the yoke to the right side of the back.

Picture 15

Afterwards, both back yokes are being ironed up one after the other. If desired, the back yoke can be fixed with a narrow seam (1 mm).

The sleeve vent

At the sleeve vent the binding and placket are stitched by approx. 5 mm. The binding belongs to the narrow side and the placket to the wider side.

Picture 16

Now the vent is cut open, and the corners at the end are pinched like a triangle.

Picture 17

The binding is now folded and ironed twice by 0.5 cm and then stitched through at the top. If desired, the binding can also be hand-stitched with blind stitching and then machine stitched from the top.

Now the binding is stitched together with the triangle, this way the slit looks clean inside.

Picture 18

The placket is first folded and ironed by 1 cm and then by 2 cm. The end of the placket can be pointed or straight.

Picture 19

Then the placket is stitched from the top. You have to be careful so that the placket is well caught. It is safer to hand-stitch the placket with a blind stitch and then machine stitch from the top.

Picture 20

Now the back of the sleeve vent looks clean and well finished.

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25

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28

The shoulder seam

Picture 21