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- Herausgeber: Science & Technology Publishing
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
Knotting and Splicing Ropes and Cordage is a comprehensive manual that delves into the art and science of working with ropes, offering detailed instructions and illustrations for tying a wide variety of knots, hitches, bends, and splices. Originally authored by Paul N. Hasluck, this classic guide is an invaluable resource for sailors, outdoors enthusiasts, craftsmen, and anyone interested in mastering ropework. The book covers the fundamental principles of rope construction, the selection of appropriate materials, and the proper care and maintenance of ropes and cordage. Readers will find step-by-step guidance on creating essential knots such as the bowline, sheet bend, clove hitch, and reef knot, as well as more specialized knots used in maritime, climbing, and decorative applications. In addition to knotting, the book provides thorough explanations and visual aids for splicing techniques, including eye splices, short and long splices, and the joining of different types of rope. Decorative knotwork, lashing, whipping, and net making are also explored, making this volume a well-rounded reference for both practical and ornamental uses. The clear diagrams and practical advice ensure that even beginners can follow along, while experienced ropeworkers will appreciate the depth and breadth of information. Knotting and Splicing Ropes and Cordage stands as a timeless reference, preserving traditional skills and offering practical knowledge for a wide range of applications, from boating and camping to crafting and repair.
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KNOTTING AND SPLICING ROPES AND CORDAGE
KNOTTINGAND SPLICINGROPES AND CORDAGEWITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS AND DIAGRAMSEDITED BYPAUL N. HASLUCKEDITOR OF “WORK” AND “BUILDING WORLD” AUTHOR OF “HANDBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS,” ETC. ETC.PHILADELPHIA DAVID McKAY, Publisher610, SOUTH WASHINGTON SQUARE1907
PREFACE.
This Handbook contains, in a form convenient for everyday use, a comprehensive digest of the information on Knotting and Splicing Ropes and Cordage, scattered over more than twenty thousand columns of the journals it is my fortune to edit—and supplies concise information on the details of the subjects on which it treats.
Readers who may desire additional information respecting special details of the matters dealt with in this Handbook, or instructions on kindred subjects, should address a question to The Editor of WORK, La Belle Sauvage, London, E.C., so that it may be answered in the columns of that journal.
P. N. HASLUCK.
La Belle Sauvage, London.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
PAGE
I.
—Introduction: Rope Formation
9
II.
—Simple and Useful Knots
15
III.
—Eye Knots, Hitches, and Bends
24
IV.
—Ring Knots and Rope Shortenings
43
V.
—Ties and Lashings
59
VI.
—Fancy Knots
66
VII.
—Rope Splicing
89
VIII.
—Working Cordage
96
IX.
—Hammock Making
125
X.
—Lashings and Ties for Scaffolding
130
XI.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
FIG.
PAGE
1.
—Overhand Knot
15
2.
—Fourfold Overhand Knot, Loose and Taut
15
3.
—Figure-of-eight Knot
16
4.
—Sailor’s Knots or Reef Knots
16
5.
—Sailor’s Reef Knot, Half-made
17
6.
—Granny or Lubber’s Knot
17
7.
—Granny Knot, Taut
18
8.
—Overhand Rosette Knot or Bow
19
9.
—Weaver’s Knot, Half-made
20
10.
—Weaver’s Knot, Closed
21
11.
—Overhand Knot Joining Two Ropes
21
12.
—Flemish Knot Joining Two Ropes
22
13.
—Fisherman’s Knot
22
14.
—Whipcord Knot
23
15.
—Running Knot
24
16.
—Fisherman’s Eye Knot
25
17.
—Openhand Eye Knot
25
18.
—Flemish Eye Knot
26
19.
—Crabber’s Eye Knot
26
20.
—Bowline Knot
27
21.
—Running Bowline on Bight
28
22.
—Running Knot with Two Ends—Loose
29
23.
—Running Knot with Two Ends—Fastened
29
24.
—Two Half Hitches
30
25.
—Builder’s Knot
31
26.
—Timber Hitch
32
27.
—Killick Hitch
33
28.
—Magnus Hitch
33
29.
—Fisherman’s Bend
34
30.
—Rolling Hitch
34
31.
—Topsail Halliard Bend
35
32.
—Racking Hitch
35
33.
—Slippery Hitch
36
34.
—Carrick Bend
36
35.
—Bending Sheet to Clew of Sail
37
36.
—More Secure Sheet Bend
38
37.
—Bending Rope to Loop
38
38.
—Blackwall Hitch
39
39.
—Midshipman’s Hitch
40
40.
—Marlinespike Hitch
40
41.
—Regulating Lashing
41
42.
—Stationer’s Knot
41
43.
—Slippery Ring Knot
43
44.
—Boat Knot
44
45.
—Lark Boat Knot
44
46.
—Lark’s Head
45
47.
—Lark’s Head Stoppered
45
48.
—Lark’s Head with Crossed Ends
46
49.
—Double Lark’s Head
46
50.
—Treble Lark’s Head
47
51.
—Backhanded Sailor’s Knot
47
52.
—Capstan Knot
48
53.
—Another Form of Sailor’s Knot
48
54.
—Gunner’s Knot
49
55.
—Beginning of Artillery Knot
50
56.
—Artillery Knot Finished
50
57.
—Bend Shortening
51
58.
—Chain Knot
51
59.
—Beginning Chain Knot
52
60.
—Twist Knot
53
61.
—Beginning Twist Knot
53
62.
—Sheepshanks
54
63.
—Sheepshanks Fastened
54
64.
—Sheepshanks Knotted
54
65.
—Sheepshanks Knotted
55
66.
—Boat Knot Shortening or Sheepshanks Toggled
56
67.
—Knot Shortening
56
68.
—Beginning Knot Shortening
57
69.
—Double Chain Knot
57
70.
—Wedding Knot
59
71.
—Chain Knot Lashed to Spar
59
72.
—Improved Chain Knot
60
73.
—Cross Lashing
60
74.
—Necklace Tie
61
75.
—Packing Knot
61
76.
—Finishing off Whipping
62
77.
—Finishing off Whipping
62
78.
—Nippering
63
79.
—West Country Whipping
63
80.
—Catspaw
64
81.
—Beginning Catspaw
64
82.
—Securing Block to Rope
65
83.
—Wall Knot
66
84.
—Stopper Knot
66
85.
—Beginning Crowning
67
86.
—Crowning Complete
67
87.
—Beginning Manrope Knot
68
88.
—Manrope Knot
68
89.
—Tack Knot
68
90.
—Matthew Walker Knot
69
91.
—Matthew Walker Knot
70
92.
—Beginning Diamond Knot
70
93.
—Diamond Knot before Hauling Taut
71
94.
—Single Diamond Knot
72
95.
—Double Diamond Knot
72
96.
—Shroud Knot
73
97.
—Beginning Turk’s Head
74
98.
—Turk’s Head
75
99.
—Single Pitcher Knot
77
100.
—Beginning Single Pitcher Knot
77
101.
—Pitcher with Rope Handle
77
102.
—Double Pitcher Knot
79
103.
—Beginning Double Pitcher Knot
79
104.
—Can or Jar in Sling
80
105.
—Beginning Can Sling
81
106.
—Shamrock Knot
82
107.
—Beginning Shamrock Knot
82
108.
—Another Way of making Shamrock Knot
83
109.
—Beginning Dalliance Knot
84
110.
—Next Stage in Dalliance Knot
85
111.
—Davenport Brothers’ Knot
86
112.
—Bellringer’s Knot
87
113.
—Beginning Short Splice
89
114.
—Marlinespike
90
115.
—Pricker
90
116.
—Long Rope Splice
91
117.
—Cut Splice
92
118.
—Beginning Cut Splice
93
119.
—Eye Splice
93
120.
—Splicing Grommet
94
121.
—Finishing off Grommet
95
122.
—Flemish Eye
96
123.
—Grommet
97
124.
—Selvagee
98
125.
—Selvagee fastening Block to Rope
99
126.
—Worming, Parcelling, and Marling
100
127.
—Serving
100
128.
—Belaying
101
129.
—Fairleader
101
130.
—Belaying Pin
102
131.
—Toggle
103
132.
—Another Form of Toggle
104
133.
—Fender on Side of Boat
104
134.
—Fender with Ropeyarn Heart
105
135.
—Thimble Side View
106
136.
—Thimble Cross Section
106
137.
—Mousing a Hook
106
138.
—Stropping a Block
107
139.
—Pointing a Rope
108
140.
—Another Method of Pointing a Rope
108
141.
—Mainstay
109
142.
—Shear-legs
110
143.
—Wall Knot
111
144.
—Crown
111
145.
—Crown Hauled Taut
111
146.
—Manrope Knot
112
147.
—Pointing End of Yoke Line
112
148.
—Fastening off Yoke Line
113
149.
—Yoke Line Complete
114
150.
—Stern Ladder
114
151.
—Round of Stern Ladder
114
152.
—Single Rope Ladder with Chocks
115
153.
—Toe Chock for Rope Ladder
116
154.
—Rope Ladder with Rungs
117
155.
—Wood Rung
118
156.
—Pilot Ladder
119
157.
—Side Piece of Pilot Ladder
120
158.
—Beginning Mat
121
159.
—Mat Making
123
160.
—Netting Needle
125
161.
—Netting Needle
125
162.
—Mesh Stick
125
163.
—Mesh Stick Cross Section
125
164.
—Loop in Meshing
126
165.
—First Stage in Meshing
126
166.
—Second Stage in Meshing
127
167.
—Third Stage in Meshing
127
168.
—Chain of Meshes
128
169.
—Beginning of Cross Netting
129
170.
—Hammock Clew
129
171.
—Rope Lashing for Poles and Ledgers
130
172.
—Chain Lashing for Poles and Ledgers
130
173.
—Rope Lashing for Putlogs
130
174.
—Poles Lashed and Wedged, with Footing
131
175.
—Slinging Plank for Use as Stage
132
176.
—Boatswain’s Chair
132
177.
—Colliery Band Rope Driving System
134
178.
—“Marrying” a Wire Rope Splice
135
179.
—Method of Serving Wire Rope
136
180.
—Partly-finished Splice
137
181.
—Wire Rope ready for Splicing
137
182.
—Right-handed Splice, First Tuck
138
183.
—Right-handed Splice, all Ends Tucked Once
139
184.
KNOTTING AND SPLICING ROPES AND CORDAGE.
CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION: ROPE FORMATION.
Knotting is an ancient device with which very early inhabitants of this earth must have been acquainted. From the beginning, mankind must always have used some kind of knot to join animal sinews, plant fibres, or hide strips which, in ancient days, were the prototypes of the varieties of cordage now employed.
A large number of knots has been invented by the skill of man, and on their strength and correct tying depend the lives of thousands and thousands of workmen—seamen, building trade operatives, etc., day by day. The importance of being able to make the knot best suited for the occasion both rapidly and correctly may come in a new light to some when it is pointed out that both lives and property have over and over again been sacrificed to ill-made knots; and this little volume is put forward in the belief that few things better repay the workman’s time and trouble in learning than the manipulation of ropes and cordage.
Cordage is used almost daily by everyone in some form or other, but comparatively few can handle it methodically. Men break their nails and teeth gnawing at their own knots endeavouring to untie them, and time and material are wasted. Time spent in learning a few of the simple bends and hitches, reliable under strain and easy to unbend when the strain is released, would never be regretted. It is not necessary for a landsman to learn all the numerous uses to which rope is put, but a knowledge of common “bends” is an inestimable convenience, if not a necessity.
The security of a knot ought not to be, as many seem to think, in the number of turns or hitches in its composition, but in the efficacy of the nip. A “bend” or “hitch” must be so formed that the part of rope under strain nips some portion of the knot, either against itself or the object to which it is attached; and in learning a bend, or impressing it upon one’s memory, it will be found most helpful to notice particularly the nip of each separate one as it is studied.
Rope, though usually of hemp, is made of other materials for certain purposes. Coir rope (cocoa-nut fibre), being light and buoyant, is useful for warps, rocket lines, life-buoy lines, and drift-nets. Manilla grass is adapted for reef points, yachts’ hawsers, and wherever tar would be injurious. Hide is required for wheel-ropes, or where great strength with pliability and small circumference is needed. Cotton is serviceable for fancy work, etc. The “yarns” are formed by twisting the hemp right-handed; the “strands,” by twisting or laying up the yarns left-handed; and the rope, by laying up the strands right-handed.
Three ropes laid up left-handed form what is known as a cable-laid rope; four-stranded ropes are laid round a heart. Ropes are sometimes laid left-handed, but if the strands are to be laid left-handed the yarns are laid right-handed. If the parts of hemp, etc., be twisted more than is necessary to hold them together, strength is lost. Upon following the course of a yarn in a rope it will be found that, by this alternate laying, it runs nearly straight with the direction of the rope’s length.
A three-stranded rope will bear a greater strain in comparison with its size than any other of the same material; cable-laid ropes and four-stranded ropes are, roughly speaking, about one-fifth weaker. Rope is measured by its circumference, and is laid up in lengths of 113 fathoms, sizes varying up to 28 in.; but it is not usually made up in coils when the size exceeds 5 in. Very small ropes are distinguished by their yarns rather than their size; thus sailors speak of nine-, twelve-, and eighteen-yarn stuff, which is commonly called “seizing stuff.”
If the fibres of which a rope is composed were laid parallel to one another and fastened at the two ends, the combined strength of these fibres would be utilised to the full; in other words, they lose strength by being twisted or “laid up.” But, on the other hand, the length of the fibres being at most but a few feet, their usefulness in this state is very limited, and the inconvenience of using them so is prohibitive. For this reason the fibres are first twisted into “yarns”; these, again, are laid up into “strands,” a strand being formed of several yarns; and, finally, three or more strands are formed into a rope. As twisting diminishes the strength of a rope, it is important that the yarns be carefully laid up, so as to bring an even strain on every part. It should not be laid up too hard—that is, it should only have sufficient twist in it to prevent the fibres from being drawn out without breaking.
“Hawser-laid” ropes are made of three strands laid right-handed, or “with the sun,” as it is termed. “Shroud-laid” are made of four strands laid right-handed. A “cable-laid” rope is made of three hawser-laid ropes laid up left-handed, and therefore contains nine strands. Obviously the size of a rope is regulated by the quantity of yarns composing the strands, and not by the number of strands that it contains.
The maximum safe load on a rope depends on many circumstances, such as quality, age and dryness of rope, nature of load, mode of lifting, etc. Approximately, the safe load on a new hemp rope in hundredweights with direct lift is three times the weight in pounds per fathom. On a sound old rope fall one-half the square of the circumference is sufficient load. A Bessemer steel wire rope will safely carry in hundredweights three times the square of its circumference in inches, and a crucible steel wire rope four times the square of its circumference. For hemp ropes the minimum diameter of sheave should be circumference of rope + 2, and for wire ropes the diameter of sheave in inches should be equal to circumference of rope in sixteenths.
The principle of rope making is very readily shown by holding the ends of a piece of twine or whipcord, about a foot long, in the hands and twisting it so as to increase the lay. If the twine be now slackened by bringing the hands nearer to one another, a loop will first form in the middle of the twine, and it will continue to twist itself up into a compact cord which will not unlay, as the tension to which the strands have been subjected causes friction between them, which holds them together. In other words, the tendency of each part singly to unlay, acting in opposite directions, is the means of keeping them together when joined.
Some very interesting experiments were made by Réaumur, the purposes of which were to ascertain the loss of strength occasioned by laying up the fibres of various substances, one or two of which are given.
1. A thread, consisting of 832 fibres of silk, each of which carried 1 dram and 18 grains, broke with a weight of 5 lbs., though the sum of the absolute strength of the fibres is 104 drams, or upwards of 8 lbs. 2 oz.
2. Three threads were twisted together, their mean strength being nearly 8 lbs. They broke with 17½ lbs., whereas they should have carried 24 lbs.
These experiments prove that though convenience and portability are gained by twisting the fibres, there is a great loss in the strength of the resultant rope.
In speaking of the size of a rope, the circumference and not the diameter is alluded to. Thus, a three-inch rope would be slightly less than an inch in diameter.
In practising knotting it is as well to use a tolerably firm material, such as whipcord, for small common knots, or, still better, line used for sea fishing. Either can be tied up and undone over and over again without injuring it, which is not the case with twine; it is also more easy to see which way the parts of a knot lie in the harder material, and then to find out whether the turns
