Lanzarote and wine E-Book

Rubén Acosta

• Herausgeber: DIGITALIZA-Tec
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 147

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2024

Beschreibung

Lanzarote wines are something of a miracle born out of the islanders' ability to adapt to the harsh environmental conditions and devastation wrought by the volcanic eruptions that beset the island in the 18th century. It is because of these extraordinary circumstances and unique method of grape cultivation that Lanzarote wines boast their excellent quality and special nuances. This book offers historical and practical information about a method of viticulture which has sculpted Lanzarote's landscape for the last three hundred years, creating sustainable regions such as La Geria with its unparalleled natural beauty. This book also offers valuable insight into the social, cultural and natural aspects of the region that are unlike anywhere else in the world. Colaborators: Agustín Pallarés, Santiago Alemán, Ignacio Valderas, Ignacio Romero, Alberto Gonzalez, Gustavo Palomo and Juan José Otamendi.

Leseprobe

Production:

Ediciones Remotas

Printing:

Gráficas Summa

© Copyright Photographs:

Rubén Acosta

Except: Teodoro Maisch (p. 22), Martín Arteta (p. 24), Rafael Silva (p. 27), Nicolás Melián (p. 33), Leandro Viera (p. 55), Christian Piesch (p. 89), Janire Villaverde (p. 89), Carlos Martínez (p. 86), Ignacio Romero (p. 103), Joaquín García Vera (p. 106), Adriel Perdomo (p. 106) and Miguel Cabrera (p. 109). Images provided by kind permission of Antonio Lorenzo (p. 30, 31, 67), Bodegas El Grifo (p. 84-95), Bodegas Rubicón (p. 90-91), Bodegas La Geria (p. 87, 108), Museo Tanit (p. 98) and Museo el Patio (p. 98).

© Illustrations:

Santiago Alemán p. 46, 48-49, 51-53, 62.

César Mánrique Foundation p. 66.

© Text:

Rubén Acosta and Mario Ferrer

Except: Juan José Otamendi (p. 13-29), Agustín Pallarés (p. 35-36), Ignacio Romero (p. 43-44, 100-102), Alberto González (p. 57-61), Ignacio Valderas (p. 71), Gustavo Palomo (p. 78-79).

© Design:

Rubén Acosta

Layout: Natividad Betancor and Carolina Giova

Translation: Samantha Coker

Copyright of current edition:

Ediciones Remotas

www.edicionesremotas.com

ISBN: 978-84-945717-1-8

Legal deposit: GC 86-2023

Third edition 2025

Printed in Spain

All rights reserved. Total or partial reproduction of this book by any existing means is forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher, Ediciones Remotas.

This book is dedicated to Lanzarote’s farmers. To the men and women who managed to triumph over adversity and overcome the ravages of volcanic eruptions and drought, and in doing so, created a truly unique cultural landscape that we must protect.

THE AUTHORS

Rubén Acosta

Rubén holds a Bachelor of Arts degree in Audiovisual Communication and a Masters in Photography and Cultural Engineering. He is a freelance photographer and cultural consultant involved in the revitalisation of La Geria with projects such as the ‘Somos Geria (We are La Geria) - Cultural Action Plan’. He is an award-winning international artist and has exhibited his work in events such as Photoespaña. He comes from a family of long wine making traditions with vineyards in La Geria that produce artisan wines.

Mario Ferrer

Mario holds a Doctorate and Bachelor’s degree in Journalism and History of Art. He is a prolific writer and has published many research papers in magazines and scientific conferences, as well as numerous popular interest titles. His specialist fields include contemporary history, journalism and culture and he has worked as editor, exhibition curator and digital archive expert (he coordinates Lanzarote’s Memoriadelanzarote.com). Mario also authored the report on La Geria that was Lanzarote’s entry in the European Landscape Award in 2013.

CONTRIBUTORS

Santiago Alemán

Illustrator and painter born in Lanzarote, author of various books including Tesoros de la isla or ‘Island Treasures’. Professor of drawing at the Pancho Lasso School of Art in Arrecife.

Juan José Otamendi

Co-owner of Bodegas El Grifo winery together with his brother Fermín. He manages the library in the Wine Museum and has published numerous works on the island’s viticulture.

Gustavo Palomo

Sommelier trained at the Madrid Chamber of Commerce, holds a Masters in Oenology, finalist in the Golden Nose Sommelier Competition (Nariz de Oro) in 2011, finalist at the Madrid Fusión Congress and two-time winner of the best sommelier in the Canaries award in 2010 and in 2012.

Alberto González

Born in La Gomera, he is an agricultural engineer and oenologist and holds a Masters in Viticulture and Oenology. In 2012 he came second in the Best Oenologists in Spain awards and was positioned in the top ten best oenologists in the world, holding sixth place in 2012.

Ignacio Romero

Holds a degree in Environmental Biology from the University of La Laguna and a Masters in Environmental Resource Management from Granada University. He is at the forefront of a movement to raise awareness about Lanzarote’s social and environmental concerns by means of his organisation called Senderismo Lanzarote.

Ignacio Valderas

Director and oenologist for the Bodegas Los Bermejos winery with more than 30 years experience in Lanzarote’s wine making sector.

Agustín Pallarés

Researcher and investigator in the fields of Lanzarote prehistory, history and toponymy. Further information about his work and publications can be found on agustinpallares.blogspot.com.es

INDEX

1. Lanzarote - A unique territory

2. Wine in Lanzarote

3. History of wine in Lanzarote

4. La Geria, wine landscape

5. Natural elements

6. Grape cultivation and harvesting methods

7. Grape varieties

8. Social and cultural values

9. Food & wine

10. Wineries guide

11. What to do in La Geria

Map

1. LANZAROTE - A UNIQUE TERRITORY

Lanzarote is an island that evokes a mythical age; an extraordinary place on earth where the natural elements of water, earth, air and fire converge. It is the setting for Timanfaya’s open air museum of volcanoes that exhibits its undeniable might over the landscape. It is a place where rock becomes sculpture and the terrain is transformed into a work of art.

The origin of the Montañas del Fuego (Fire Mountains) dates back to that fateful day in 1730 when Lanzarote’s history would change forever. The island faced one of the most powerful series of volcanic eruptions to be experienced in this part of the world in many centuries. The parish priest of Yaiza, Lorenzo Curbelo, left what has become legendary testimony as to what took place: “On 1st September 1730, between nine and ten at night, the ground opened up in Timanfaya, two leagues from Yaiza… and an enormous mountain rose up from the bowels of the earth.”

For a period of six years, until 1736, the volcanoes became a part of daily life on the island and eventually covered nearly a third of its surface area. Lanzarote had been shaken to the core with what seemed at first dire consequences for the island’s modest economy, but out of the destruction came a resurrection of fortunes thanks to the natural properties of the volcanic ash, or lapilli (locally known as picón, rofe or sand). Farming using this rofe was known to have been used prior to the eruptions but it was at this point that its use became widespread and would stamp its mark on the island’s wine growing industry. Besides Timanfaya, the island boasts many unique areas, including Europe’s second largest Marine Reserve comprised of five small islets located in the north of the island. This part of the island is also home to the Cliffs of Famara and the Volcán de la Corona volcano, two spectacular mountain regions that date from different eras with picturesque villages and stunning beaches nestled at their feet. As you explore the historical town of the Villa de Teguise towards the centre of the island you can clearly see the surrounding areas of El Jable. Jable is the local name given to the coarse white sand found in this area which extends in a wide corridor from the north to the south of the island.

The centre of the island is home to two main attractions in the shape of La Geria and Timanfaya where you can also see spectacular landmarks like El Golfo, Las Salinas de Janubio and the Hervideros or ‘Boiling Pots’. Along the island’s leeward coast lie the main tourist resorts and residential areas. The majority of the population is concentrated in the coastal stretch from Costa Teguise to Puerto Calero, whilst much smaller farming hamlets or fishing villages can be found dotted throughout the rest of the island.

The Atlantic Ocean brings its influence to bear in the south of Lanzarote where visitors can take a boat trip and explore the Isla de Lobos islet or venture a little further afield to nearby Fuerteventura, an island famed for its incredible beaches. The south of Lanzarote is also home to the idyllic white sandy bays of Papagayo which lie beneath the Natural Monument of Los Ajaches; a relatively low-lying mountain range which makes for perfect hiking territory. Some 42.1% of the island’s land comes under the protection of some kind of territorial or environmental law.

A Biosphere Reserve for more than three decades

On 7th October 1993 UNESCO declared Lanzarote a Biosphere Reserve. This prestigious international award recognised the efforts made by Lanzarote society to find a harmonious balance between economic progress and respect for the island’s natural surroundings. The unique region of La Geria played an important role in Lanzarote being made a Biosphere Reserve, together with the network of Centres of Art, Culture and Tourism as well as the island’s pioneering urban planning schemes.

The concept of a Biosphere Reserve was devised by UNESCO in 1976 to recognise and protect highly emblematic ecosystems. The inclusion of Lanzarote in the network of Biosphere Reserves was a hugely important step as it was the first time that a territory had been chosen as a whole unit (including the residential areas, infrastructures, equipment etc.) with the idea that Lanzarote would become an experimental laboratory of sustainability. Like all laboratories, it has witnessed failures as well as successes which have given way to much social and political debate, but which have also served to raise greater awareness.

An International Economy

Since the Spanish conquest at the beginning of the fifteenth century, (it was the first island to be conquered in 1402) the Canarian economy has hinged on international trade, especially in Europe, the main market for agricultural exports, but also in America and Africa. Whilst wine enjoyed an essential role in the island’s economy in the 18th century, in the centuries that followed the export market was to swing from buoyancy to periods of crisis brought about by a virtual total decline in some of the island’s produce. Lanzarote and Fuerteventura had once been known as the ‘barn of the Canaries’ due to their prolific production of cereals, but they eventually suffered the trials and tribulations of an age-old fragile economy. They were islands caught up in the negative cycle of being subject to their geographic isolation in the Atlantic ocean as well as being at the mercy of its arid land and the lack of adequate infrastructure. It was only thanks to the export of produce such as natural dyes produced from orchella weed and cochineal that the population managed to avoid total emigration. The scarce wealth that did exist on the island was in the hands of a small elite of landowners.

The second half of the twentieth century saw the modernisation of fishing methods and this sector experienced a period of real growth with Arrecife becoming one the world’s most important sardine ports. At the same time, Europe’s first desalination plant, capable of providing a public water supply, was installed on the island. This was a momentous technological milestone for the island as it meant that it no loner had to live under the constant threat of water shortages which had left such a mark on the socio-economic development of the island up until that point. During this same period, the island’s council, Cabildo, together with the artist César Manrique and a wonderful team of collaborators, began work on creating the network of innovative Centres of Art, Culture and Tourism (CACT) in stunning natural locations. This network created the island’s model for tourism based on respect for the surrounding environment. The CACT are Lanzarote’s standard bearer, representing a world-class tourist destination which receives nearly two million visitors every year.

Photograph of Jameos del Agua, one of César Manrique’s creations, depicting the lake which is home to the island’s endemic species of blind albino crab.

A fusion of cultures

Geographically speaking, the Canary Islands are strategically positioned at a point where cultural influences from Europe, the Americas and Africa intersect. The climate brings with it an almost daily reminder of its proximity to the African continent which is where the ancient inhabitants, called Majos, originally came from, as did many of the pirates who were responsible for attacking the island over the centuries. The island has also enjoyed important socio-economic ties with Africa in the past, especially with the fishing sector, and nowadays it is considered an ideal place for Canarian companies to grow internationally.

Columbus passed through the Canaries on his way to America and in so doing inaugurated a sailing passage that has been crucial to the islands’ development. For centuries, Cuba, Venezuela or Uruguay were the main places to which many islanders would emigrate; to such an extent, in fact, that many family ties and economic and social links with South America still endure today. It is the cultural ties that are especially important to the island, as it has been heavily influenced by the language and musical traditions of South America.

It was Europe that brought conquerors to the islands in the 15th century, but it was also Europe that has been responsible for bringing the most significant economic and political influences in the islands’ histories. All the new ideas and technology that Europe has exported to the rest of the world, it also shared with the Canary Islands - geographically distant they may be, but the relationship is one of close neighbours. Apart from the Spanish mainland, the Canarian archipelago has experienced historical periods of close ties with other European countries such as France, Portugal and especially the United Kingdom. Currently in Lanzarote alone nearly 12% of the population (18,950 people) is comprised of citizens from other countries in the European Union. Canarian society and culture are the product of a wealth of foreign influences but the islands and their people have evolved their own typically idiosyncratic nature.

One of the greatest challenges Lanzarote society faces today, is to attain sustainable development in all aspects of island life. Sustainability has long been a natural approach farmers have used, in their connection to and respect for the land and surroundings, which is something César Manrique recognised and understood very clearly. Recent decades have seen clear economic progress but it has been such a fast process that its cultural and social repercussions have not been entirely positive. Employment, energy, economic diversification, the environment and multicultural coexistence are just a few of the inevitable challenges that the island faces in the future.

The Largest Marine Reserve in Europe

The Islotes Marine Reserve is located in the north of the island and comprises some of Lanzarote as well as the five smaller islets of La Graciosa, Alegranza, Montaña Clara, Roque del Este and Roque del Oeste. It’s the largest marine reserve in Europe and many specialists agree that it fulfils all the necessary requirements to be declared a National Park. La Graciosa is the only inhabited island and can be reached via ferry from the small harbour town of Órzola. It has just one main village and is the ideal place to enjoy nature, open air sports and a peace and quiet that is hard to find in other places. This marine reserve is noted for its natural features and landscape. The impressive cliff of Famara, which is several kilometres in length, is home to more endemic species (plant, bird and wildlife) per square kilometre than any other place in Europe. The islets are inhabited by such a rich variety of unique birdlife that renowned international scientists carry out research there and the entire area is also greatly valued by marine life experts, particularly specialists in cetaceans.

2. WINE IN LANZAROTE

Exceptional Wine

There are many reasons why wine produced on Lanzarote is exceptional:

Firstly is the fact that the Canaries is the most southerly wine growing region before reaching South Africa. Secondly, Lanzarote produces the first grape harvest of the year in Europe. Furthermore, the region has to contend with harsh weather conditions that bring an average rainfall of just 100 litres per square metre, making it less favourable than any other growing region in the world - all these factors lead to the conclusion that, indeed, wine produced on Lanzarote is exceptional.

Given such problematic conditions, it only follows that the techniques used to grow grapes in Lanzarote are also unique and extraordinary. The vine is planted in the fertile soil beneath the layer of volcanic ash and has to be protected from the trade winds with the help of a low semi-circular wall made from volcanic rocks. The gaps between these rocks allow the tempered winds to provide just enough vital ventilation to prevent fungal growth and disease.

This unique method of grape growing which local farmers have had to devise to make the most of the agricultural potential of the island, entails constant laborious and delicate maintenance. So delicate is their care, in fact, that many refer to the island’s farmers as ‘gardeners’ and ‘caretakers of the countryside’.

The low production per hectare which is generally between 1,000 kg and 1,500 kg is due to low density planting. The vines are cared for almost exclusively by hand and are constantly subject to the threat of the great nemesis of farmers on Lanzarote; heat waves.