SEVASTOPOL IN DECEMBER, 1854.
SEVASTOPOL IN MAY, 1855.
SEVASTOPOL IN AUGUST, 1855.
SEVASTOPOL IN DECEMBER, 1854.
The flush of morning has but just
begun to tinge the sky above Sapun Mountain; the dark blue surface
of the sea has already cast aside the shades of night and awaits
the first ray to begin a play of merry gleams; cold and mist are
wafted from the bay; there is no snow—all is black, but the morning
frost pinches the face and crackles underfoot, and the far-off,
unceasing roar of the sea, broken now and then by the thunder of
the firing in Sevastopol, alone disturbs the calm of the morning.
It is dark on board the ships; it has just struck eight
bells.Toward the north the activity of the day begins gradually to
replace the nocturnal quiet; here the relief guard has passed
clanking their arms, there the doctor is already hastening to the
hospital, further on the soldier has crept out of his earth hut and
is washing his sunburnt face in ice-encrusted water, and, turning
towards the crimsoning east, crosses himself quickly as he prays to
God; here a tall and heavy camel-wagon has dragged creaking to the
cemetery, to bury the bloody dead, with whom it is laden nearly to
the top. You go to the wharf—a peculiar odor of coal, manure,
dampness, and of beef strikes you; thousands of objects of all
sorts—wood, meat, gabions, flour, iron, and so forth—lie in heaps
about the wharf; soldiers of various regiments, with knapsacks and
muskets, without knapsacks and without muskets, throng thither,
smoke, quarrel, drag weights aboard the steamer which lies smoking
beside the quay; unattached two-oared boats, filled with all sorts
of people,—soldiers, sailors, merchants, women,—land at and leave
the wharf.
“To the Grafsky, Your Excellency? be so good.” Two or three
retired sailors rise in their boats and offer you their
services.You select the one who is nearest to you, you step over the
half-decomposed carcass of a brown horse, which lies there in the
mud beside the boat, and reach the stern. You quit the shore. All
about you is the sea, already glittering in the morning sun, in
front of you is an aged sailor, in a camel's-hair coat, and a
young, white-headed boy, who work zealously and in silence at the
oars. You gaze at the motley vastness of the vessels, scattered far
and near over the bay, and at the small black dots of boats moving
about on the shining azure expanse, and at the bright and beautiful
buildings of the city, tinted with the rosy rays of the morning
sun, which are visible in one direction, and at the foaming white
line of the quay, and the sunken ships from which black tips of
masts rise sadly here and there, and at the distant fleet of the
enemy faintly visible as they rock on the crystal horizon of the
sea, and at the streaks of foam on which leap salt bubbles beaten
up by the oars; you listen to the monotonous sound of voices which
fly to you over the water, and the grand sounds of firing, which,
as it seems to you, is increasing in Sevastopol.It cannot be that, at the thought that you too are in
Sevastopol, a certain feeling of manliness, of pride, has not
penetrated your soul, and that the blood has not begun to flow more
swiftly through your veins.
“Your Excellency! you are steering straight into the
Kistentin,”[A]says your old
sailor to you as he turns round to make sure of the direction which
you are imparting to the boat, with the rudder to the
right.
“And all the cannon are still on it,” remarks the
white-headed boy, casting a glance over the ship as we
pass.
“Of course; it's new. Korniloff lived on board of it,” said
the old man, also glancing at the ship.
“See where it has burst!” says the boy, after a long silence,
looking at a white cloud of spreading smoke which has suddenly
appeared high over the South Bay, accompanied by the sharp report
of an exploding bomb.
“ Heis firing to-day with his new
battery,” adds the old man, calmly spitting on his hands. “Now,
give way, Mishka! we'll overtake the barge.” And your boat moves
forward more swiftly over the broad swells of the bay, and you
actually do overtake the heavy barge, upon which some bags are
piled, and which is rowed by awkward soldiers, and it touches the
Grafsky wharf amid a multitude of boats of every sort which are
landing.Throngs of gray soldiers, black sailors, and women of various
colors move noisily along the shore. The women are selling rolls,
Russian peasants with samovárs are cryinghot
sbiten;[B]and here upon the first steps are strewn rusted cannon-balls,
bombs, grape-shot, and cast-iron cannon of various calibers; a
little further on is a large square, upon which lie huge beams,
gun-carriages, sleeping soldiers; there stand horses, wagons, green
guns, ammunition-chests, and stacks of arms; soldiers, sailors,
officers, women, children, and merchants are moving about; carts
are arriving with hay, bags, and casks; here and there Cossacks
make their way through, or officers on horseback, or a general in a
drosky. To the right, the street is hemmed in by a barricade, in
whose embrasures stand some small cannon, and beside these sits a
sailor smoking his pipe. On the left a handsome house with Roman
ciphers on the pediment, beneath which stand soldiers and
blood-stained litters—everywhere you behold the unpleasant signs of
a war encampment. Your first impression is inevitably of the most
disagreeable sort. The strange mixture of camp and town life, of a
beautiful city and a dirty bivouac, is not only not beautiful, but
seems repulsive disorder; it even seems to you that every one is
thoroughly frightened, and is fussing about without knowing what he
is doing. But look more closely at the faces of these people who
are moving about you, and you will gain an entirely different idea.
Look at this little soldier from the provinces, for example, who is
leading a troïka of brown horses to water, and is purring something
to himself so composedly that he evidently will not go astray in
this motley crowd, which does not exist for him; but he is
fulfilling his duty, whatever that may be,—watering the horses or
carrying arms,—with just as much composure, self-confidence, and
equanimity as though it were taking place in Tula or Saransk. You
will read the same expression on the face of this officer who
passes by in immaculate white gloves, and in the face of the sailor
who is smoking as he sits on the barricade, and in the faces of the
working soldiers, waiting with their litters on the steps of the
former club, and in the face of yonder girl, who, fearing to wet
her pink gown, skips across the street on the little
stones.Yes! disenchantment certainly awaits you, if you are entering
Sevastopol for the first time. In vain will you seek, on even a
single countenance, for traces of anxiety, discomposure, or even of
enthusiasm, readiness for death, decision,—there is nothing of the
sort. You will see the tradespeople quietly engaged in the duties
of their callings, so that, possibly, you may reproach yourself for
superfluous raptures, you may entertain some doubt as to the
justice of the ideas regarding the heroism of the defenders of
Sevastopol which you have formed from stories, descriptions, and
the sights and sounds on the northern side. But, before you doubt,
go upon the bastions, observe the defenders of Sevastopol on the
very scene of the defence, or, better still, go straight across
into that house, which was formerly the Sevastopol Assembly House,
and upon whose roof stand soldiers with litters,—there you will
behold the defenders of Sevastopol, there you will behold frightful
and sad, great and laughable, but wonderful sights, which elevate
the soul.You enter the great Hall of Assembly. You have but just
opened the door when the sight and smell of forty or fifty
seriously wounded men and of those who have undergone
amputation—some in hammocks, the majority upon the floor—suddenly
strike you. Trust not to the feeling which detains you upon the
threshold of the hall; be not ashamed of having come tolook atthe sufferers, be not ashamed
to approach and address them: the unfortunates like to see a
sympathizing human face, they like to tell of their sufferings and
to hear words of love and interest. You walk along between the beds
and seek a face less stern and suffering, which you decide to
approach, with the object of conversing.
“Where are you wounded?” you inquire, timidly and with
indecision, of an old, gaunt soldier, who, seated in his hammock,
is watching you with a good-natured glance, and seems to invite you
to approach him. I say “you ask timidly,” because these sufferings
inspire you, over and above the feeling of profound sympathy, with
a fear of offending and with a lofty reverence for the man who has
undergone them.
“In the leg,” replies the soldier; but, at the same time, you
perceive, by the folds of the coverlet, that he has lost his leg
above the knee. “God be thanked now,” he adds,—“I shall get my
discharge.”
“Were you wounded long ago?”
“It was six weeks ago, Your Excellency.”
“Does it still pain you?”
“No, there's no pain now; only there's a sort of gnawing in
my calf when the weather is bad, but that's nothing.”
“How did you come to be wounded?”
“On the fifth bastion, during the first bombardment. I had
just trained a cannon, and was on the point of going away, so, to
another embrasure whenitstruck
me in the leg, just as if I had stepped into a hole and had no
leg.”
“Was it not painful at the first moment?”
“Not at all; only as though something boiling hot had struck
my leg.”
“Well, and then?”
“And then—nothing; only the skin began to draw as though it
had been rubbed hard. The first thing of all, Your
Excellency,is not to think at all. If you don't think about a thing, it amounts to nothing.
Men suffer from thinking more than from anything else.”At that moment, a woman in a gray striped dress and a black
kerchief bound about her head approaches you.She joins in your conversation with the sailor, and begins to
tell about him, about his sufferings, his desperate condition for
the space of four weeks, and how, when he was wounded, he made the
litter halt that he might see the volley from our battery, how the
grand-duke spoke to him and gave him twenty-five rubles, and how he
said to him that he wanted to go back to the bastion to direct the
younger men, even if he could not work himself. As she says all
this in a breath, the woman glances now at you, now at the sailor,
who has turned away as though he did not hear her and plucks some
lint from his pillow, and her eyes sparkle with peculiar
enthusiasm.
“This is my housewife, Your Excellency!” the sailor says to
you, with an expression which seems to say, “You must excuse her.
Every one knows it's a woman's way—she's talking
nonsense.”You begin to understand the defenders of Sevastopol. For some
reason, you feel ashamed of yourself in the presence of this man.
You would like to say a very great deal to him, in order to express
to him your sympathy and admiration; but you find no words, or you
are dissatisfied with those which come into your head,—and you do
reverence in silence before this taciturn, unconscious grandeur and
firmness of soul, this modesty in the face of his own
merits.
“Well, God grant you a speedy recovery,” you say to him, and
you halt before another invalid, who is lying on the floor and
appears to be awaiting death in intolerable agony.He is a blond man with pale, swollen face. He is lying on his
back, with his left arm thrown out, in a position which is
expressive of cruel suffering. His parched, open mouth with
difficulty emits his stertorous breathing; his blue, leaden eyes
are rolled up, and from beneath the wadded coverlet the remains of
his right arm, enveloped in bandages, protrude. The oppressive odor
of a corpse strikes you forcibly, and the consuming, internal fire
which has penetrated every limb of the sufferer seems to penetrate
you also.
“Is he unconscious?” you inquire of the woman, who comes up
to you and gazes at you tenderly as at a relative.
“No, he can still hear, but he's very bad,” she adds, in a
whisper. “I gave him some tea to-day,—what if he is a stranger, one
must still have pity!—and he hardly tasted it.”
“How do you feel?” you ask him.The wounded man turns his eyeballs at the sound of your
voice, but he neither sees nor understands you.
“There's a gnawing at my heart.”A little further on, you see an old soldier changing his
linen. His face and body are of a sort of cinnamon-brown color, and
gaunt as a skeleton. He has no arm at all; it has been cut off at
the shoulder. He is sitting with a wide-awake air, he puts himself
to rights; but you see, by his dull, corpse-like gaze, his
frightful gauntness, and the wrinkles on his face, that he is a
being who has suffered for the best part of his life.On the other side, you behold in a cot the pale, suffering,
and delicate face of a woman, upon whose cheek plays a feverish
flush.
“That's our little sailor lass who was struck in the leg by a
bomb on the 5th,” your guide tells you. “She was carrying her
husband's dinner to him in the bastion.”
“Has it been amputated?”
“They cut it off above the knee.”Now, if your nerves are strong, pass through the door on the
left. In yonder room they are applying bandages and performing
operations. There, you will see doctors with their arms
blood-stained above the elbow, and with pale, stern faces, busied
about a cot, upon which, with eyes widely opened, and uttering, as
in delirium, incoherent, sometimes simple and touching words, lies
a wounded man under the influence of chloroform. The doctors are
busy with the repulsive but beneficent work of amputation. You see
the sharp, curved knife enter the healthy, white body, you see the
wounded man suddenly regain consciousness with a piercing cry and
curses, you see the army surgeon fling the amputated arm into a
corner, you see another wounded man, lying in a litter in the same
apartment, shrink convulsively and groan as he gazes at the
operation upon his comrade, not so much from physical pain as from
the moral torture of anticipation.—You behold the frightful,
soul-stirring scenes; you behold war, not from its conventional,
beautiful, and brilliant side, with music and drum-beat, with
fluttering flags and galloping generals, but you behold war in its
real phase—in blood, in suffering, in death.On emerging from this house of pain, you will infallibly
experience a sensation of pleasure, you will inhale the fresh air
more fully, you will feel satisfaction in the consciousness of your
health, but, at the same time, you will draw from the sight of
these sufferings a consciousness of your nothingness, and you will
go calmly and without any indecision to the bastion.
“What do the death and sufferings of such an insignificant
worm as I signify in comparison with so many deaths and such great
sufferings?” But the sight of the clear sky, the brilliant sun, the
fine city, the open church, and the soldiers moving about in
various directions soon restores your mind to its normal condition
of frivolity, petty cares, and absorption in the present
alone.Perhaps you meet the funeral procession of some officer
coming from the church, with rose-colored coffin, and music and
fluttering banners; perhaps the sounds of firing reach your ear
from the bastion, but this does not lead you back to your former
thoughts; the funeral seems to you a very fine military spectacle,
and you do not connect with this spectacle, or with the sounds, any
clear idea of suffering and death, as you did at the point where
the bandaging was going on.Passing the barricade and the church, you come to the most
lively part of the city. On both sides hang the signs of shops and
inns. Merchants, women in bonnets and kerchiefs, dandified
officers,—everything speaks to you of the firmness of spirit, of
the independence and the security of the inhabitants.Enter the inn on the right if you wish to hear the
conversations of sailors and officers; stories of the preceding
night are sure to be in progress there, and of Fenka, and the
affair of the 24th, and of the dearness and badness of cutlets, and
of such and such a comrade who has been killed.
“Devil take it, how bad things are with us to-day!”
ejaculates the bass voice of a beardless naval officer, with white
brows and lashes, in a green knitted sash.
“Where?” asks another.
“In the fourth bastion,” replies the young officer, and you
are certain to look at the white-lashed officer with great
attention, and even with some respect, at the words, “in the fourth
bastion.” His excessive ease of manner, the way he flourishes his
hands, his loud laugh, and his voice, which seems to you insolent,
reveal to you that peculiar boastful frame of mind which some very
young men acquire after danger; nevertheless, you think he is about
to tell you how bad the condition of things on the fourth bastion
is because of the bombs and balls. Nothing of the sort! things are
bad because it is muddy. “It's impossible to pass through the
battery,” says he, pointing at his boots, which are covered with
mud above the calf. “And my best gun-captain was killed to-day; he
was struck plump in the forehead,” says another. “Who's that?
Mitiukhin?” “No!... What now, are they going to give me any veal?
the villains!” he adds to the servant of the inn. “Not Mitiukhin,
but Abrosimoff. Such a fine young fellow!—he was in the sixth
sally.”At another corner of the table, over a dish of cutlets with
peas, and a bottle of sour Crimean wine called “Bordeaux,” sit two
infantry officers; one with a red collar, who is young and has two
stars on his coat, is telling the other, with a black collar and no
stars, about the affair at Alma. The former has already drunk a
good deal, and it is evident, from the breaks in his narrative,
from his undecided glance expressive of doubt as to whether he is
believed, and chiefly from the altogether too prominent part which
he has played in it all, and from the excessive horror of it all,
that he is strongly disinclined to bear strict witness to the
truth. But these tales, which you will hear for a long time to come
in every corner of Russia, are nothing to you; you prefer to go to
the bastions, especially to the fourth, of which you have heard so
many and such diverse things. When any one says that he has been in
the fourth bastion, he says it with a peculiar air of pride and
satisfaction; when any one says, “I am going to the fourth
bastion,” either a little agitation or a very great indifference is
infallibly perceptible in him; when any one wants to jest about
another, he says, “You must be stationed in the fourth bastion;”
when you meet litters and inquire whence they come, the answer is
generally, “From the fourth bastion.” On the whole, two totally
different opinions exist with regard to this terrible bastion; one
is held by those who have never been in it, and who are convinced
that the fourth bastion is a regular grave for every one who enters
it, and the other by those who live in it, like the white-lashed
midshipman, and who, when they mention the fourth bastion, will
tell you whether it is dry or muddy there, whether it is warm or
cold in the mud hut, and so forth.During the half-hour which you have passed in the inn, the
weather has changed; a fog which before spread over the sea has
collected into damp, heavy, gray clouds, and has veiled the sun; a
kind of melancholy, frozen mist sprinkles from above, and wets the
roofs, the sidewalks, and the soldiers' overcoats.Passing by yet another barricade, you emerge from the door at
the right and ascend the principal street. Behind this barricade,
the houses are unoccupied on both sides of the street, there are no
signs, the doors are covered with boards, the windows are broken
in; here the corners are broken away, there the roofs are pierced.
The buildings seem to be old, to have undergone every sort of
vicissitude and deprivation characteristic of veterans, and appear
to gaze proudly and somewhat scornfully upon you. You stumble over
the cannon-balls which strew the way, and into holes filled with
water, which have been excavated in the stony ground by the bombs.
In the street you meet and overtake bodies of soldiers,
sharpshooters, officers; now and then you encounter a woman or a
child, but it is no longer a woman in a bonnet, but a sailor's
daughter in an old fur cloak and soldier's boots. As you proceed
along the street, and descend a small declivity, you observe that
there are no longer any houses about you, but only some strange
heaps of ruined stones, boards, clay, and beams; ahead of you, upon
a steep hill, you perceive a black, muddy expanse, intersected by
canals, and this that is in front is the fourth bastion. Here you
meet still fewer people, no women are visible, the soldiers walk
briskly, you come across drops of blood on the road, and you will
certainly encounter there four soldiers with a stretcher and upon
the stretcher a pale yellowish face and a blood-stained overcoat.
If you inquire, “Where is he wounded?” the bearers will say
angrily, without turning towards you, “In the leg or the arm,” if
he is slightly wounded, or they will preserve a gloomy silence if
no head is visible on the stretcher and he is already dead or badly
hurt.The shriek of a cannon-ball or a bomb close by surprises you
unpleasantly, as you ascend the hill. You understand all at once,
and quite differently from what you have before, the significance
of those sounds of shots which you heard in the city. A quietly
cheerful memory flashes suddenly before your fancy; your own
personality begins to occupy you more than your observations; your
attention to all that surrounds you diminishes, and a certain
disagreeable feeling of uncertainty suddenly overmasters you. In
spite of this decidedly base voice, which suddenly speaks within
you, at the sight of danger, you force it to be silent, especially
when you glance at a soldier who runs laughing past you at a trot,
waving his hands, and slipping down the hill in the mud, and you
involuntarily expand your chest, throw up your head a little
higher, and climb the slippery, clayey hill. As soon as you have
reached the top, rifle-balls begin to whiz to the right and left of
you, and, possibly, you begin to reflect whether you will not go
into the trench which runs parallel with the road; but this trench
is full of such yellow, liquid, foul-smelling mud, more than
knee-deep, that you will infallibly choose the path on the hill,
the more so as you see thatevery one uses the
path. After traversing a couple of hundred
paces, you emerge upon a muddy expanse, all ploughed up, and
surrounded on all sides by gabions, earthworks, platforms, earth
huts, upon which great cast-iron guns stand, and cannon-balls lie
in symmetrical heaps. All these seem to be heaped up without any
aim, connection, or order. Here in the battery sit a knot of
sailors; there in the middle of the square, half buried in mud,
lies a broken cannon; further on, a foot-soldier, with his gun, is
marching through the battery, and dragging his feet with difficulty
through the sticky soil. But everywhere, on all sides, in every
spot, you see broken dishes, unexploded bombs, cannon-balls, signs
of encampment, all sunk in the liquid, viscous mud. You seem to
hear not far from you the thud of a cannon-ball; on all sides, you
seem to hear the varied sounds of balls,—humming like bees,
whistling sharply, or in a whine like a cord—you hear the frightful
roar of the fusillade, which seems to shake you all through with
some horrible fright.
“So this is it, the fourth bastion, this is it—that terrible,
really frightful place!” you think to yourself, and you experience
a little sensation of pride, and a very large sensation of
suppressed terror. But you are mistaken, this is not the fourth
bastion. It is the Yazonovsky redoubt—a place which is
comparatively safe; and not at all dreadful.In order to reach the fourth bastion, you turn to the right,
through this narrow trench, through which the foot-soldier has
gone. In this trench you will perhaps meet stretchers again,
sailors and soldiers with shovels; you will see the superintendent
of the mines, mud huts, into which only two men can crawl by
bending down, and there you will see sharpshooters of the Black Sea
battalions, who are changing their shoes, eating, smoking their
pipes, and living; and you will still see everywhere that same
stinking mud, traces of a camp, and cast-off iron débris in every
possible form. Proceeding yet three hundred paces, you will emerge
again upon a battery,—on an open space, all cut up into holes and
surrounded by gabions, covered with earth, cannon, and earthworks.
Here you will perhaps see five sailors playing cards under the
shelter of the breastworks, and a naval officer who, perceiving
that you are a new-comer, and curious, will with pleasure show his
household arrangements, and everything which may be of interest to
you.This officer rolls himself a cigarette of yellow paper, with
so much composure as he sits on a gun, walks so calmly from one
embrasure to another, converses with you so quietly, without the
slightest affectation, that, in spite of the bullets which hum
above you even more thickly than before, you become cool yourself,
question attentively, and listen to the officer's
replies.This officer will tell you, but only if you ask him, about
the bombardment on the 5th, he will tell you how only one gun in
his battery could be used, and out of all the gunners who served it
only eight remained, and how, nevertheless, on the next morning,
the 6th, he fired all the guns; he will tell you how a bomb fell
upon a sailor's earth hut on the 5th, and laid low eleven men; he
will point out to you, from the embrasures, the enemy's batteries
and entrenchments, which are not more than thirty or forty fathoms
distant from this point. I fear, however, that, under the influence
of the whizzing bullets, you may thrust yourself out of the
embrasure in order to view the enemy; you will see nothing, and, if
you do see anything, you will be very much surprised that that
white stone wall, which is so near you and from which white smoke
rises in puffs,—that that white wall is the enemy—he, as the soldiers and sailors
say.It is even quite possible that the naval officer will want to
discharge a shot or two in your presence, out of vanity or simply
for his own pleasure. “Send the captain and his crew to the
cannon;” and fourteen sailors step up briskly and merrily to the
gun and load it—one thrusting his pipe into his pocket, another one
chewing a biscuit, still another clattering his heels on the
platform.Observe the faces, the bearing, the movements of these men.
In every wrinkle of that sunburned face, with its high cheek-bones,
in every muscle, in the breadth of those shoulders, in the
stoutness of those legs shod in huge boots, in every calm, firm,
deliberate gesture, these chief traits which constitute the power
of Russia—simplicity and straightforwardness—are visible; but here,
on every face, it seems to you that the danger, misery, and the
sufferings of war have, in addition to these principal
characteristics, left traces of consciousness of personal worth,
emotion, and exalted thought.All at once a frightful roar, which shakes not your organs of
hearing alone but your whole being, startles you so that you
tremble all over. Then you hear the distant shriek of the shot as
it pursues its course, and the dense smoke of the powder conceals
from you the platform and the black figures of the sailors who are
moving about upon it. You hear various remarks of the sailors in
reference to this shot, and you see their animation, and an
exhibition of a feeling which you had not expected to behold
perhaps—a feeling of malice, of revenge against the enemy, which
lies hidden in the soul of each man. “It struck the embrasure
itself; it seems to have killed two men—see, they've carried them
off!” you hear in joyful exclamation. “And now they are angry;
they'll fire at us directly,” says some one; and, in fact, shortly
after you see a flash in front and smoke; the sentry, who is
standing on the breastwork, shouts “Can-non!” And then the ball
shrieks past you, strikes the earth, and scatters a shower of dirt
and stones about it.This ball enrages the commander of the battery; he orders a
second and a third gun to be loaded, the enemy also begins to reply
to us, and you experience a sensation of interest, you hear and see
interesting things. Again the sentry shouts, “Can-non!” and you
hear the same report and blow, [...]