7,99 €
Mehr erfahren.
- Herausgeber: Gramercy Park Press
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
Andrew Delaplaine is the ultimate Restaurant Enthusiast.
With decades in the food writing business, he has been everywhere and eaten (almost) everything.
“Unlike the ‘honest’ reviews on sites like Yelp, this writer knows what he’s talking about. He’s a professional, with decades in the business, not a well-intentioned but clueless amateur.”
= Holly Titler, Los Angeles
“This concise guidebook was exactly what I needed to make the most of my limited time in town.”
= Tanner Davis, Milwaukee
This is another of his books with spot-on reviews of the most exciting restaurants in town. Some will merit only a line or two, just to bring them to your attention. Others deserve a half page or more.
“The fact that he doesn’t accept free meals in exchange for a good review makes all the difference in his sometimes brutally accurate reviews.”
= Jerry Adams, El Paso
“Exciting” does not necessarily mean expensive. The area’s top spots get the recognition they so richly deserve (and that they so loudly demand), but there are plenty of “sensible alternatives” for those looking for good food handsomely prepared by cooks and chefs who really care what they “plate up” in the kitchen.
For those with a touch of Guy Fieri, Delaplaine ferrets out the best food for those on a budget. That dingy looking dive bar around the corner may serve up one of the juiciest burgers in town, perfect to wash down with a locally brewed craft beer.
Whatever your predilection or taste, cuisine of choice or your budget, you may rely on Andrew Delaplaine not to disappoint.
Delaplaine dines anonymously at the Publisher’s expense. No restaurant listed in this series has paid a penny or given so much as a free meal to be included.
Bon Appétit!
Das E-Book können Sie in Legimi-Apps oder einer beliebigen App lesen, die das folgende Format unterstützen:
Seitenzahl: 58
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021
Ähnliche
2022
Cape Cod
Restaurants
––––––––
The Food Enthusiast’s
Long Weekend Guide
––––––––
Andrew Delaplaine
––––––––
Andrew Delaplaine is the Restaurant Enthusiast.
When he’s not playing tennis,
he dines anonymously
at the Publisher’s (considerable) expense.
––––––––
Senior Editor – James Cubby
Copyright © by Gramercy Park Press - All rights reserved.
Table of Contents
Introduction
––––––––
Getting About
––––––––
The A to Z Listings
Ridiculously Extravagant
Sensible Alternatives
Quality Bargain Spots
INTRODUCTION
––––––––
Every time I’m in the Hamptons, the thought crosses my mind that “I’d rather be on Cape Cod.”
Every time I’m on Cape Cod, I think two things: “Thank God it never turned into the Hamptons” and “Thank God it’s still the same.”
It’s not of course. Nothing ever really is the same. But when you run into old-timers on Long Island, they’ll tell you how it was in the Hamptons before the mega-rich moved in and built their monstrously inappropriate mansions, bringing along with them, naturally, their monstrously inappropriate attitudes. The Hamptons with their fancy shops and nightclubs. (Can you ever imagine a NIGHTCLUB on Cape Cod? Not really. Who would ever go to it? I’m not including P-town in this statement—with all the gay people out there, of course they have nightclubs.)
Cape Cod is really one of the great things about America. There’s a unique ecosystem or lifestyle or way of life or mindset on the Cape, however you may want to describe it.
The cheesy little stores selling dust collecting souvenirs, the roadside seafood shacks selling fried clams the way they have for decades, the quiet beaches on Nantucket Bay, the shops selling saltwater taffy and other summer goodies—all of it is remarkably the same as it was when my grandmother used to drag us out there from Boston every summer.
It’s kinda like the northern version of the Florida Keys. (Though the local people couldn’t be more different if they tried—the ones up on the Cape actually read books and know who’s President. In the Keys, they couldn’t care less.)
Like Key West, Cape Cod, and especially P-town, has been a magnate for artists of every type. If you’re lucky, you might be able to catch filmmaker John Waters tooling around town on his weird looking bike.
Just as the Keys are divided into three parts, the Upper, Middle and Lower Keys, Cape Cod goes them one better and is divided roughly into four parts: the Upper Cape, Mid-Cape, Lower Cape and Outer Cape. (Five parts if you count the Islands—Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket and the others.)
––––––––
UPPER CAPE
The Upper Cape runs north to south and is bounded by Buzzards Bay and the Cape Cod Canal. Sandwich takes the honors as the oldest town on the Cape, thus the most historic. Charming Falmouth and its lovely waterfront aren’t far away. Wood’s Hole, of course, is home to the big oceanographic institute you’ve probably heard a lot about over the years. Then there’s Mashpee, New Seabury, Bourne.
MID-CAPE
Exactly as the name indicates, Mid-Cape is in the middle of the peninsula, boasting towns like Hyannis (famed for its Kennedy connection), Osterville (where we stayed with grandmother in a whitewashed house), Barnstable Village, Dennis, Yarmouthport, Centerville, West Barnstable, Craigville, Cummaquid, HyannisPort.
––––––––
LOWER CAPE
In the geography of the “arm” that Cape Cod forms, this area starts at the elbow and makes its way north. Chatham is the jewel of the Lower Cape, sporting a charmingly quaint downtown area, shops and restaurants. Chatham makes a great place to stay because it’s so centrally located to the rest of Cape Cod. Also in the Lower Cape is Orleans, claimed to be the spot where Leif Eriksson landed in 1003. (Long before the lobster roll, he probably had his lobster cooked over a spit with no drawn butter and loved them just as much as we do today.) Also here you’ll find Harwichport and Brewster.
The thing that gets me about Leif Eriksson is why in God’s name he didn’t send his boat back and tell the crew to bring their families. Think of the real estate he could have stolen from the Indians.
––––––––
OUTER CAPE
As the “forearm” of Cape Cod moves north, you enter what is called the Outer Cape. On one side you have Cape Cod Bay and on the other the Atlantic. The peninsula becomes quite narrow out here, and you pass through towns like Eastham (not that there’s much of a “town” there) and Truro with great views from the cliffs and the Cape Cod Light, before you get to wonderful Wellfleet. (Think “Wellfleet oysters.”) This is a great little town I love very much, a civilized respite from the madness of the last stop, Provincetown, or “P-town” to locals, a sizeable number of whom are gay.
P-town is a world unto its own on Cape Cod. There are dozens of little towns on the Cape you could pick up, move 20 or 30 miles and set down again and nobody would notice anything different. But you couldn’t do that with P-town. It’s completely unique.
––––––––
THE ISLANDS
Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket
Several Cape Cod harbors have ferries that will take you to Martha’s Vineyard.
The Island Queen operates out of Falmouth Harbor. Quickest way if you don’t have a car. 30-40 minutes from dock to dock. 75 Falmouth Heights Rd, 508-548-4800. www.islandqueen.com/
Steamship Authority takes cars over. Must reserve a place for your car. 1 Cowdry Rd, Wood’s Hole, and also from 65 South St, Hyannis. 508-495-3278 for people reservations, 508-477-8600 to reserve a place for your car. www.steamshipauthority.com/
Falmouth Ferry, 278 Scranton Ave, Falmouth, 508-548-9400. www.falmouthedgartownferry.com/ Offers only service to Edgartown in the summer aboard a 72-foot vessel.
Hy-Line Cruises
220 Ocean St, Hyannis, 508-778-2600
hylinecruises.com/
Serves both islands
––––––––
WHEN TO VISIT
I prefer the slightly off-season Spring and Autumn periods over the high summer season to visit Cape Cod. But then, I can do without most beach activities that if you have a family, you’ll want to take advantage of. Kids want to swim. The worst time for me is 4th of July through Labor Day. This is the high summer season. The four weeks before or the four weeks after make the perfect time to visit. The crowds are less, the rates are lower, you can get into the best restaurants without a hassle and the car traffic is reduced to somewhat sane levels, not something you can say in high season.
GETTING ABOUT
––––––––
––––––––
You will need a car, pure and simple.
There is bus service along the Cape. Details at www.p-b.com. But once you get into a town, you’ll be at the mercy of taxis, which can be expensive, even for short jaunts.
