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Handbook of Natural Colorants Second Edition A detailed survey of a variety of natural colorants and their different applications including textiles, polymers, and cosmetics Colorants describe a wide range of materials such as dyes, pigments, inks, paint, or chemicals, which are used in small quantities but play an important role in many products such as textiles, polymers, food, and cosmetics. As the effects of climate change begin to be felt, there has been a shift in focus in the field to renewable resources and sustainability, and an interest in the replacement of oil-based products with greener substitutions. As the push to adopt natural resources grows, there have been significant developments in the research and application of natural colorants as a step in the transition to a bio-based economy. The second edition of Handbook of Natural Colorants provides a detailed introduction to natural colorants in a marriage of theory and practice, from seed of plant to consumer demand. Presenting a wide range of viewpoints, the book briefly discusses the history of coloration technology and the current position of natural colorants before highlighting detailed information on regional plant source availability, colorant production and properties, as well as analytical methods for isolation, identification, and toxicity aspects. It also presents key applications in technical use and consumer products, including the use of natural colorants in textiles, hair dyeing, printing, and packaging. Finally, the text considers environmental and economic aspects of natural colorants. Handbook of Natural Colorants is a useful reference for dyers, textile producers, and researchers in the evolving field of sustainable chemistry, environmental sciences, agricultural sciences, and polymer sciences. * Revised and updated content throughout to reflect developments in research and applications over the past decade * New content on biotechnology in natural colorant production, natural colorants for mass coloration polymers, natural colorants in printing/packaging, and plant-based pigments * Discusses strategies for scale-up, including consideration of energy, waste, and effluents For more information on the Wiley Series in Renewable Resources, visit www.wiley.com/go/rrs

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Handbook of Natural Colorants

Second Edition

Edited by

THOMAS BECHTOLDUniversity of InnsbruckResearch Institute of Textile Chemistry and Textile PhysicsAustria

AVINASH P. MANIANUniversity of InnsbruckResearch Institute of Textile Chemistry and Textile PhysicsAustria

TUNG PHAMUniversity of InnsbruckResearch Institute of Textile Chemistry and Textile PhysicsAustria

 

 

 

 

 

This edition first published 2023

© 2023 John Wiley & Sons Ltd

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The right of Thomas Bechtold, Avinash P. Manian, and Tung Pham to be identified as the authors of the editorial material in this work has been asserted in accordance with law.

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List of Contributors

Harby Ezzeldeen Ahmed Faculty of Archaeology, Cairo University, Giza, Egypt

Claude Andary Laboratory of Botany, Phytochemistry and Mycology, University of Montpellier, Montpellier, France

Luciana Gabriella Angelini Department of Agriculture, Food and Environment, University of Pisa, Pisa, Italy

Thomas Bechtold Research Institute of Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics, University of Innsbruck, Dornbirn, Austria

Judith Büttler Research Institute of Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics, University of Innsbruck, Dornbirn, Austria

Dominique Cardon Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, France

U. Gamage Chandrika Department of Biochemistry, Faculty of Medical Sciences, University of Sri Jayewardenepura, Gangodawila, Nugegoda, Sri Lanka

Fernanda de Oliveira Department of Bioprocess Engineering and Biotechnology, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, São Paulo State University (UNESP), São Paulo, Brazil; Department of Biotechnology, Engineering School of Lorena, University of São Paulo, Lorena, São Paulo, Brazil

Veridiana Vera de Rosso Department of Health Science, Federal University of São Paulo (UNIFESP), Santos, Brazil

Goverdina C. H. Derksen Natural Colour Research, Dorable Colours, Oud‐Vossemeer, The Netherlands

Laurent Dufossé Laboratoire de Chimie et Biotechnologie des Produits Naturels (CHEMBIOPRO), ESIROI Département Agroalimentaire, Université de la Réunion, Ile de La Réunion, Indian Ocean, France

Susanne Geissler SERA—Institute for Sustainable Energy and Resources Availability, Vienna, Austria

M. Monica Giusti Parker Food Science and Technology, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio, USA

Vivian Katherine Colorado Gómez Department of Chemical Engineering, Universidad Autónoma de Coahuila, Saltillo, Coahuila, México

Hely Häggman Department of Ecology and Genetics, University of Oulu, Oulu, Finland

Christian Hansmann Department of Material Science and Process Engineering, Institute of Wood Technology and Renewable Materials, BOKU—University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences, Tulln, Austria

Philip John School of Biological Sciences, University of Reading, Whiteknights, Reading, UK

Riitta Julkunen‐Tiitto Department of Environmental and Biological Sciences, University of Eastern Finland, Joensuu, Finland

Andreas Kandelbauer Reutlingen University, Reutlingen, Germany

Avinash P. Manian Research Institute of Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics, University of Innsbruck, Dornbirn, Austria

Maria J. Melo LAQV/REQUIMTE, Department of Conservation and Restoration; Faculty of Sciences and Technology, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Monte de Caparica, Portugal

Alejandro Méndez‐Zavala Department of Chemical Engineering, Universidad Autónoma de Coahuila, Saltillo, Coahuila, México

Adriana Zerlotti Mercadante Department of Food and Experimental Nutrition, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Science, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil

Gonzalo Miyagusuku‐Cruzado Parker Food Science and Technology, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio, USA

Julio Montañez Department of Chemical Engineering, Universidad Autónoma de Coahuila, Saltillo, Coahuila, México

Lourdes Morales‐Oyervides Department of Chemical Engineering, Universidad Autónoma de Coahuila, Saltillo, Coahuila, México

Ulrich Müller Wood K plus‐Competence Center for Wood Composites and Wood Chemistry, Altenberger Straße, Linz, Austria

Cassamo U. Mussagy Escuela de Agronomia, Facultad de Ciencias Agronomicas y de Los Alimentos Pontificia, Universidad Catolica de Valparaiso, Quillota, Chile

Tung Pham Research Institute of Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics, University of Innsbruck, Dornbirn, Austria

Fernando Pina LAQV/REQUIMTE, Faculty of Sciences and Technology, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Monte de Caparica, Portugal

Riikka Räisänen Craft Science, University of Helsinki, Finland

María Roca Spanish National Research Council (CSIC), Instituto de la Grasa, Department of Food Biotechnology, Sevilla, Spain

Juan Pablo Ruiz‐Sánchez Department of Chemical Engineering, Universidad Autónoma de Coahuila, Saltillo, Coahuila, México

Ashis Kumar Samanta Department of Jute and Fibre Technology, Institute of Jute Technology, University of Calcutta, Kolkata, West Bengal, India

Valeria C. Santos‐Ebinuma Department of Bioprocess Engineering and Biotechnology, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, São Paulo State University (UNESP), São Paulo, Brazil

Deepali Singhee JD Birla Institute (affiliated to Jadavpur University), Kolkata, West Bengal, India

Reng‐Cheng Tang College of Textile and Clothing Engineering; China National Textile and Apparel Council Key Laboratory of Natural Dyes; Jiangsu Engineering Research Center of Textile Dyeing and Printing for Energy Conservation, Discharge, Reduction and Cleaner Production, Soochow University, China

Natércia Teixeira LAQV/REQUIMTE, Department of Chemistry and Biochemistry, Faculty of Sciences, Universidade do Porto, Porto, Portugal

Taylor C. Wallace Think Healthy Group, Washington, DC, USA; Department of Nutrition and Food Studies, George Mason University, Fairfax, Virginia, USA

Martin Weigl‐Kuska Holzforschung Austria, Vienna, Austria

Wendy Weiss University of Nebraska–Lincoln, Lincoln, Nebraska, USA

Series Preface

Renewable resources, their use and modification, are involved in a multitude of important processes with a major influence on our everyday lives. Applications can be found in the energy sector, paints and coatings, and the chemical, pharmaceutical, and textile industries, to name but a few.

The area interconnects several scientific disciplines (agriculture, biochemistry, chemistry, technology, environmental sciences, forestry, etc.), which makes it very difficult to have an expert view on the complicated interactions. Therefore, the idea to create a series of scientific books, focusing on specific topics concerning renewable resources, has been very opportune and can help to clarify some of the underlying connections in this area.

In a very fast‐changing world, trends are not only characteristic of fashion and political standpoints; science too is not free from hypes and buzzwords. The use of renewable resources is again more important nowadays; however, it is not part of a hype or a fashion. As the lively discussions among scientists continue about how many years we will still be able to use fossil fuels – opinions ranging from 50 to 500 years – they do agree that the reserve is limited and that it is essential not only to search for new energy carriers but also for new material sources.

In this respect, the field of renewable resources is a crucial area in the search for alternatives for fossil‐based raw materials and energy. In the field of energy supply, biomass‐and renewables‐based resources will be part of the solution alongside other alternatives such as solar energy, wind energy, hydraulic power, hydrogen technology, and nuclear energy. In the field of material sciences, the impact of renewable resources will probably be even bigger. Integral utilization of crops and the use of waste streams in certain industries will grow in importance, leading to a more sustainable way of producing materials. Although our society was much more (almost exclusively) based on renewable resources centuries ago, this disappeared in the Western world in the nineteenth century. Now it is time to focus again on this field of research. However, it should not mean a “retour à la nature,” but should be a multidisciplinary effort on a highly technological level to perform research towards new opportunities, and to develop new crops and products from renewable resources. This will be essential to guarantee an acceptable level of comfort for the growing number of people living on our planet. It is “the” challenge for the coming generations of scientists to develop more sustainable ways to create prosperity and to fight poverty and hunger in the world. A global approach is certainly favored.

This challenge can only be dealt with if scientists are attracted to this area and are recognized for their efforts in this interdisciplinary field. It is, therefore, also essential that consumers recognize the fate of renewable resources in a number of products. Furthermore, scientists do need to communicate and discuss the relevance of their work. The use and modification of renewable resources may not follow the path of the genetic engineering concept in view of consumer acceptance in Europe. Related to this aspect, the series will certainly help to increase the visibility of the importance of renewable resources. Being convinced of the value of the renewables approach for the industrial world, as well as for developing countries, I was myself delighted to collaborate on this series of books focusing on the different aspects of renewable resources. I hope that readers become aware of the complexity, the interaction, and interconnections, and the challenges of this field, and that they will help to communicate on the importance of renewable resources.

I certainly want to thank the people of Wiley’s Chichester office, especially David Hughes, Jenny Cossham, and Lyn Roberts, in seeing the need for such a series of books on renewable resources, for initiating and supporting it, and for helping to carry the project to the end.

Last, but not least, I want to thank my family, especially my wife Hilde and children Paulien and Pieter‐Jan, for their patience, and for giving me the time to work on the series when other activities seemed to be more inviting.

Christian V. Stevens

Faculty of Bioscience Engineering, Ghent University, Belgium

Series Editor, “Renewable Resources”

June 2005

Preface

Nearly 15 years have passed between the release of the first edition of the Handbook of Natural Colorants and this second edition. Things have changed a lot in this relatively short period.

In the 20th century, the dominance of the synthetic dyes restricted scientific and practical work with natural colorants to a limited number of handicrafts, artists, as well as some researchers. Activities were driven by creativity, tradition, curiosity, and scientific interests. Commercial success and technical‐scale work were limited due to the complications of the dye production and the limited level of product quality, when compared to the big synthetic brothers.

With the first edition, aspects of sustainability, renewable resources, and bio‐based economy already were arguments for a more intensive consideration of natural colorants; however, cost aspects and product economy still were in the central focus of industrial production.

The last 15 years brought a dramatic change. Public awareness about global warming and the pressing need to transform industrial production toward higher sustainability using non‐petrol‐based material also had an impact on the position of the natural colorants. The potential of complex chemical molecules such as dyes provided as raw material by nature has been investigated by many research groups around the world. Many authors of chapters were overwhelmed by the extremely high research activity in their respective field, which could be recognized with the dramatic increase in number of published scientific works about natural colorants.

This is a first point to thank all chapter authors for their high effort to review the numerous scientific articles in the topics covered in their chapter.

Natural colorants have stepped outside the shadow of being forgotten as “old economy” or “traditional products” and now are part of the future game to transform industrial production and products into more sustainable alternatives. The extraction of dyes and pigments from plant sources will be central part of a bio‐based economy, which utilizes products from nature at the highest possible stage.

The change in position of natural colorants also is reflected in the content of the book and in the organization of chapters.

The first part of the book addresses historical uses and examples of natural colorants in different civilizations. We have to understand history as part of the basis for future development and many old recipes are highly valuable sources for interpretation of new concepts.

The second series of chapters highlights the different plants used in regions all over the world. We can detect similarities between regions and can understand why climate‐dependent growth of plants will also determine the locally available color palette.

The third section organizes natural colorants with regard to their chemical structure and the chemistry of the dye molecules. This will help to design appropriate extraction, handling, and application procedures, as the chemistry of a dye is the key for an efficient application.

The fourth section includes dye production, analytics and standardization, and dye application. New chapters address biotechnological production as well as dyes from algae and bacteria. Besides technical examples for use of dyes in textile dyeing, also new applications, for example, mass coloration of plastics and use of natural colorants in paper and packing applications, are discussed.

In many publications, we find a generalized statement that all natural colorants are environmentally friendly and non‐toxic. A critical assessment of resources consumption during dye extraction and application explains that a careful consideration of energy, solvents, chemical, and water consumption is required and comparison to the best available technique must be undertaken to prove the statement of environmental friendliness. A new chapter about toxicology and consumer safety addresses the fact that dye extracted from natural sources also must be checked for adverse properties to demonstrate their non‐toxicity.

The complexity of the field requires contribution from many co‐authors which are experts in their field. We would like to thank all the authors for their efforts and the energy contribution to their chapters, and to allow us to benefit from their expertise.

We are convinced that the 2nd edition has been a step forward into the right direction; however, we are aware that there are still many empty fields and gaps which we could not cover during the revision.

We hope that the condensed form of the material and the high number of references will allow researchers to gain a sound overview about a certain field in natural colorants in an efficient and motivating way. We also hope that the revision and extension of the book will strengthen the future development of natural colorants as bio‐based raw material.

Thomas Bechtold, Avinash P. Manian, and Tung Pham

Dornbirn, 2023

IHistorical Development

1History of Natural Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean Civilization

Maria J. Melo

LAQV/REQUIMTE, Department of Conservation and Restoration; Faculty of Sciences and Technology, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Monte de Caparica, Portugal

The colors used on textiles and artifacts, their social significance and the scope of their trade are part and parcel of a people's overall history.

Jenny Balfour‐Paul, in Indigo

1.1 Introduction

1.1.1 Ancient Mediterranean World

The buildup of Mare Nostrum probably began much earlier than the 6th–5th millennium BC, and there is material evidence pointing to such activity as early as the 12th–11th millennium BC [1]. Mare Nostrum, the Roman name for the Mediterranean Sea, was to become the home of a global market that expanded beyond its natural borders in the first millennium BC. The Phoenicians, the Etruscans, the Greeks and finally the Romans shaped Mare Nostrum; a geographic as well as a cultural domain. It was also home to the first global dye, Tyrian purple, traded by the ingenious and industrious Phoenicians. The purple of Tyre was famous, as were the luxury textiles dyed and produced by the Phoenicians [2, 3]. It is said that the Greeks named the Phoenicians after phoinikes, the ancient Greek word for “red color,” probably as a result of their famous purple trade.

By the time of the founding of the Mediterranean civilizations, what we would consider the classical palette for natural dyes had already been established, and the most valued colors were indigo for the blues, anthraquinone‐based chromophores for the reds and 6,6'‐dibromoindigo for purple. These colors were traded all over the Mediterranean, regardless of the distance to be traveled or the price to be paid. The natural sources for yellows were much more diverse, so yellows could generally be obtained locally. For dyeing, with the exception of some browns, all other colors and shades, including green and orange, could be obtained with these blue, red, purple and yellow dyes. This classical palette was preserved over centuries, if not millennia. The first adjustment resulted from the loss of Tyrian purple after the fall of Constantinople and the subsequent collapse of the Roman social and commercial web. This was followed by a new entry, cochineal red, brought by the Spanish from the New World [4]. However, even with the introduction of cochineal the chemical nature of the classical palette was maintained, as carminic acid is still a substituted 1,2‐dihydroxy anthraquinone. This classical palette was only challenged by the audacity of chemists, who created new molecules, and colors never seen before, from the mid‐19th century on [5].

1.1.2 Dyes from Antiquity

Natural dyes, discovered through the ingenuity and persistence of our ancestors, can resist brightly for centuries or millennia and may be found hidden in such diverse places as the roots of a plant, a parasitic insect and the secretions of a sea snail. By contrast, the bright colors that we see in the green of a valley, the red of a poppy, the purple of mauve or the blue of cornflower are less stable. Natural dyes were used to color a fiber or to paint. It is useful to distinguish between dyes and pigments based on their solubility in the media used to apply the color; dyes are generally organic compounds that are soluble in a solvent, whereas pigments, used in painting, are usually inorganic compounds or minerals that are insoluble in the paint medium (oil, water, etc.), and are dispersed in the matrix. A pigment lake is formed by precipitating a dye onto the surface of an inorganic substance, namely by complexation with a metal ion.

Dyeing, in red, blue, purple or yellow, is a complex task that requires skill and knowledge [6]; this is true now and has been for several millennia. Color is obtained by a chemical compound called a chromophore or chromogen—that which brings or creates color. To be used as a textile dye, the chromophore must also be captured as strongly as possible into the fibers, that is, it must be resistant to washing. Dyes can bind to the surface of the fiber or be trapped within. They are often bound to textiles with the aid of metal ions known as mordants, which can also play a significant role in the final color obtained (Box 1.1). As a source of aluminum ion, alum is an important historical mordant and was widely used in the past. Other important mordants used in the past were iron, copper and tin ions [6, 7]. Dyes, such as indigo, which are trapped in the fibers due to an oxidation–reduction reaction, without the aid of a mordant, are known as vat dyes.