“But you can’t do it, you
know,” friends said, to whom I applied for assistance in the matter
of sinking myself down into the East End of London. “You had better
see the police for a guide,” they added, on second thought,
painfully endeavouring to adjust themselves to the psychological
processes of a madman who had come to them with better credentials
than brains.
“But I don’t want to see the
police,” I protested. “What I wish to do is to go down into the
East End and see things for myself. I wish to know how those people
are living there, and why they are living there, and what they are
living for. In short, I am going to live there myself.”
“You don’t want to live down
there!” everybody said, with disapprobation writ large upon their
faces. “Why, it is said there are places where a man’s life isn’t
worth tu’pence.”
“The very places I wish to see,”
I broke in.
“But you can’t, you know,” was
the unfailing rejoinder.
“Which is not what I came to see
you about,” I answered brusquely, somewhat nettled by their
incomprehension. “I am a stranger here, and I want you to tell me
what you know of the East End, in order that I may have something
to start on.”
“But we know nothing of the East
End. It is over there, somewhere.” And they waved their hands
vaguely in the direction where the sun on rare occasions may be
seen to rise.
“Then I shall go to Cook’s,” I
announced.
“Oh yes,” they said, with relief.
“Cook’s will be sure to know.”
But O Cook, O Thomas Cook &
Son, path-finders and trail-clearers, living sign-posts to all the
world, and bestowers of first aid to bewildered
travellers—unhesitatingly and instantly, with ease and celerity,
could you send me to Darkest Africa or Innermost Thibet, but to the
East End of London, barely a stone’s throw distant from Ludgate
Circus, you know not the way!
“You can’t do it, you know,” said
the human emporium of routes and fares at Cook’s Cheapside branch.
“It is so—hem—so unusual.”
“Consult the police,” he
concluded authoritatively, when I had persisted. “We are not
accustomed to taking travellers to the East End; we receive no call
to take them there, and we know nothing whatsoever about the place
at all.”
“Never mind that,” I interposed,
to save myself from being swept out of the office by his flood of
negations. “Here’s something you can do for me. I wish you to
understand in advance what I intend doing, so that in case of
trouble you may be able to identify me.”
“Ah, I see! should you be
murdered, we would be in position to identify the corpse.”
He said it so cheerfully and
cold-bloodedly that on the instant I saw my stark and mutilated
cadaver stretched upon a slab where cool waters trickle
ceaselessly, and him I saw bending over and sadly and patiently
identifying it as the body of the insane American who would see the
East End.
“No, no,” I answered; “merely to
identify me in case I get into a scrape with the ’bobbies.’” This
last I said with a thrill; truly, I was gripping hold of the
vernacular.
“That,” he said, “is a matter for
the consideration of the Chief Office.”
“It is so unprecedented, you
know,” he added apologetically.
The man at the Chief Office
hemmed and hawed. “We make it a rule,” he explained, “to give no
information concerning our clients.”
“But in this case,” I urged, “it
is the client who requests you to give the information concerning
himself.”
Again he hemmed and hawed.
“Of course,” I hastily
anticipated, “I know it is unprecedented, but—”
“As I was about to remark,” he
went on steadily, “it is unprecedented, and I don’t think we can do
anything for you.”
However, I departed with the
address of a detective who lived in the East End, and took my way
to the American consul-general. And here, at last, I found a man
with whom I could “do business.” There was no hemming and hawing,
no lifted brows, open incredulity, or blank amazement. In one
minute I explained myself and my project, which he accepted as a
matter of course. In the second minute he asked my age, height, and
weight, and looked me over. And in the third minute, as we shook
hands at parting, he said: “All right, Jack. I’ll remember you and
keep track.”
I breathed a sigh of relief.
Having burnt my ships behind me, I was now free to plunge into that
human wilderness of which nobody seemed to know anything. But at
once I encountered a new difficulty in the shape of my cabby, a
grey-whiskered and eminently decorous personage who had
imperturbably driven me for several hours about the “City.”
“Drive me down to the East End,”
I ordered, taking my seat.
“Where, sir?” he demanded with
frank surprise.
“To the East End, anywhere. Go
on.”
The hansom pursued an aimless way
for several minutes, then came to a puzzled stop. The aperture
above my head was uncovered, and the cabman peered down perplexedly
at me.
“I say,” he said, “wot plyce yer
wanter go?”
“East End,” I repeated. “Nowhere
in particular. Just drive me around anywhere.”
“But wot’s the haddress,
sir?”
“See here!” I thundered. “Drive
me down to the East End, and at once!”
It was evident that he did not
understand, but he withdrew his head, and grumblingly started his
horse.
Nowhere in the streets of London
may one escape the sight of abject poverty, while five minutes’
walk from almost any point will bring one to a slum; but the region
my hansom was now penetrating was one unending slum. The streets
were filled with a new and different race of people, short of
stature, and of wretched or beer-sodden appearance. We rolled along
through miles of bricks and squalor, and from each cross street and
alley flashed long vistas of bricks and misery. Here and there
lurched a drunken man or woman, and the air was obscene with sounds
of jangling and squabbling. At a market, tottery old men and women
were searching in the garbage thrown in the mud for rotten
potatoes, beans, and vegetables, while little children clustered
like flies around a festering mass of fruit, thrusting their arms
to the shoulders into the liquid corruption, and drawing forth
morsels but partially decayed, which they devoured on the
spot.
Not a hansom did I meet with in
all my drive, while mine was like an apparition from another and
better world, the way the children ran after it and alongside. And
as far as I could see were the solid walls of brick, the slimy
pavements, and the screaming streets; and for the first time in my
life the fear of the crowd smote me. It was like the fear of the
sea; and the miserable multitudes, street upon street, seemed so
many waves of a vast and malodorous sea, lapping about me and
threatening to well up and over me.
“Stepney, sir; Stepney Station,”
the cabby called down.
I looked about. It was really a
railroad station, and he had driven desperately to it as the one
familiar spot he had ever heard of in all that wilderness.
“Well,” I said.
He spluttered unintelligibly,
shook his head, and looked very miserable. “I’m a strynger ’ere,”
he managed to articulate. “An’ if yer don’t want Stepney Station,
I’m blessed if I know wotcher do want.”
“I’ll tell you what I want,” I
said. “You drive along and keep your eye out for a shop where old
clothes are sold. Now, when you see such a shop, drive right on
till you turn the corner, then stop and let me out.”
I could see that he was growing
dubious of his fare, but not long afterwards he pulled up to the
curb and informed me that an old-clothes shop was to be found a bit
of the way back.
“Won’tcher py me?” he pleaded.
“There’s seven an’ six owin’ me.”
“Yes,” I laughed, “and it would
be the last I’d see of you.”
“Lord lumme, but it’ll be the
last I see of you if yer don’t py me,” he retorted.
But a crowd of ragged onlookers
had already gathered around the cab, and I laughed again and walked
back to the old-clothes shop.
Here the chief difficulty was in
making the shopman understand that I really and truly wanted old
clothes. But after fruitless attempts to press upon me new and
impossible coats and trousers, he began to bring to light heaps of
old ones, looking mysterious the while and hinting darkly. This he
did with the palpable intention of letting me know that he had
“piped my lay,” in order to bulldose me, through fear of exposure,
into paying heavily for my purchases. A man in trouble, or a
high-class criminal from across the water, was what he took my
measure for—in either case, a person anxious to avoid the
police.
But I disputed with him over the
outrageous difference between prices and values, till I quite
disabused him of the notion, and he settled down to drive a hard
bargain with a hard customer. In the end I selected a pair of stout
though well-worn trousers, a frayed jacket with one remaining
button, a pair of brogans which had plainly seen service where coal
was shovelled, a thin leather belt, and a very dirty cloth cap. My
underclothing and socks, however, were new and warm, but of the
sort that any American waif, down in his luck, could acquire in the
ordinary course of events.
“I must sy yer a sharp ’un,” he
said, with counterfeit admiration, as I handed over the ten
shillings finally agreed upon for the outfit. “Blimey, if you ain’t
ben up an’ down Petticut Lane afore now. Yer trouseys is wuth five
bob to hany man, an’ a docker ’ud give two an’ six for the shoes,
to sy nothin’ of the coat an’ cap an’ new stoker’s singlet an’
hother things.”
“How much will you give me for
them?” I demanded suddenly. “I paid you ten bob for the lot, and
I’ll sell them back to you, right now, for eight! Come, it’s a
go!”
But he grinned and shook his
head, and though I had made a good bargain, I was unpleasantly
aware that he had made a better one.
I found the cabby and a policeman
with their heads together, but the latter, after looking me over
sharply, and particularly scrutinizing the bundle under my arm,
turned away and left the cabby to wax mutinous by himself. And not
a step would he budge till I paid him the seven shillings and
sixpence owing him. Whereupon he was willing to drive me to the
ends of the earth, apologising profusely for his insistence, and
explaining that one ran across queer customers in London
Town.
But he drove me only to Highbury
Vale, in North London, where my luggage was waiting for me. Here,
next day, I took off my shoes (not without regret for their
lightness and comfort), and my soft, grey travelling suit, and, in
fact, all my clothing; and proceeded to array myself in the clothes
of the other and unimaginable men, who must have been indeed
unfortunate to have had to part with such rags for the pitiable
sums obtainable from a dealer.
Inside my stoker’s singlet, in
the armpit, I sewed a gold sovereign (an emergency sum certainly of
modest proportions); and inside my stoker’s singlet I put myself.
And then I sat down and moralised upon the fair years and fat,
which had made my skin soft and brought the nerves close to the
surface; for the singlet was rough and raspy as a hair shirt, and I
am confident that the most rigorous of ascetics suffer no more than
I did in the ensuing twenty-four hours.
The remainder of my costume was
fairly easy to put on, though the brogans, or brogues, were quite a
problem. As stiff and hard as if made of wood, it was only after a
prolonged pounding of the uppers with my fists that I was able to
get my feet into them at all. Then, with a few shillings, a knife,
a handkerchief, and some brown papers and flake tobacco stowed away
in my pockets, I thumped down the stairs and said good-bye to my
foreboding friends. As I passed out of the door, the “help,” a
comely middle-aged woman, could not conquer a grin that twisted her
lips and separated them till the throat, out of involuntary
sympathy, made the uncouth animal noises we are wont to designate
as “laughter.”
No sooner was I out on the
streets than I was impressed by the difference in status effected
by my clothes. All servility vanished from the demeanour of the
common people with whom I came in contact. Presto! in the twinkling
of an eye, so to say, I had become one of them. My frayed and
out-at-elbows jacket was the badge and advertisement of my class,
which was their class. It made me of like kind, and in place of the
fawning and too respectful attention I had hitherto received, I now
shared with them a comradeship. The man in corduroy and dirty
neckerchief no longer addressed me as “sir” or “governor.” It was
“mate” now—and a fine and hearty word, with a tingle to it, and a
warmth and gladness, which the other term does not possess.
Governor! It smacks of mastery, and power, and high authority—the
tribute of the man who is under to the man on top, delivered in the
hope that he will let up a bit and ease his weight, which is
another way of saying that it is an appeal for alms.
This brings me to a delight I
experienced in my rags and tatters which is denied the average
American abroad. The European traveller from the States, who is not
a Croesus, speedily finds himself reduced to a chronic state of
self-conscious sordidness by the hordes of cringing robbers who
clutter his steps from dawn till dark, and deplete his pocket-book
in a way that puts compound interest to the blush.
In my rags and tatters I escaped
the pestilence of tipping, and encountered men on a basis of
equality. Nay, before the day was out I turned the tables, and
said, most gratefully, “Thank you, sir,” to a gentleman whose horse
I held, and who dropped a penny into my eager palm.
Other changes I discovered were
wrought in my condition by my new garb. In crossing crowded
thoroughfares I found I had to be, if anything, more lively in
avoiding vehicles, and it was strikingly impressed upon me that my
life had cheapened in direct ratio with my clothes. When before I
inquired the way of a policeman, I was usually asked, “Bus or
’ansom, sir?” But now the query became, “Walk or ride?” Also, at
the railway stations, a third-class ticket was now shoved out to me
as a matter of course.
But there was compensation for it
all. For the first time I met the English lower classes face to
face, and knew them for what they were. When loungers and workmen,
at street corners and in public-houses, talked with me, they talked
as one man to another, and they talked as natural men should talk,
without the least idea of getting anything out of me for what they
talked or the way they talked.
And when at last I made into the
East End, I was gratified to find that the fear of the crowd no
longer haunted me. I had become a part of it. The vast and
malodorous sea had welled up and over me, or I had slipped gently
into it, and there was nothing fearsome about it—with the one
exception of the stoker’s singlet.