CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER I.
I
was born in a small seaport town called Imabari, which is situated
on
the western coast of the island of Shikoku, the eastern of the two
islands lying south of Hondo. The Imabari harbor is a miserable
ditch; at low tide the mouth shows its shallow bottom, and one can
wade across. People go there for clam-digging. Two or three little
streams empty their waters into the harbor. A few junks and a
number
of boats are always seen standing in this pool of salt-water. In
the
houses surrounding it, mostly very old and ramshackle, are sold
eatables and provisions, fishes are bought from the boats, or
shelter
is given to sailors.When
a junk comes in laden with rice, commission merchants get on board
and strike for bargains. The capacity of the vessel is measured by
the amount of rice it can carry. The grain merchant carries about
him
a good-sized bamboo a few inches long, one end of which is
sharpened
and the other closed, being cut just at a joint. He thrusts the
pointed end into bags of the rice. The bags are rice-straw, knitted
together roughly into the shape of barrels. Having taken out
samples
in the hollow inside of the bamboo stick, the merchant first
examines
critically the physical qualities of the grains on the palm of his
hand, and then proceeds to chew them in order to see how they
taste.
Years of practice enable him to state, after such simple tests,
precisely what section of the country the article in question came
from, although the captain of the vessel may claim to have shipped
it
from a famous rice-producing province.About
the harbor are coolies waiting for work. They are strong, muscular
men, thinly clad, with easy straw sandals on. Putting a little
cushion on the left shoulder, a coolie rests the rice-bag upon it
and
walks away from the ship to a store-house; his left hand passed
around the burden and his right holding a short, stout, beak-like,
iron hook fastened in the bag. In idle moments the coolies get
together and indulge in tests of strength, lifting heavy weights,
etc.At
a short distance to the right from the entrance of the harbor is a
sanitarium. It is a huge, artificial cave, built of stone and
mortar
and heated by burning wood-fires in the inside. After it is
sufficiently warmed the fire is extinguished, the smoke-escape
shut,
and the oven is ready for use. Invalids flock in with wet mats,
which
they use in sitting on the scalding rocky floor of the oven.
Lifting
the mat that hangs like a curtain at the entrance, they plunge into
the suffocating hot air and remain there some time and emerge again
into daylight, fairly roasted and smothered. Then they speedily
make
for the sea and bathe in it. This process of alternate heating and
cooling is repeated several times a day. It is to cook out, as it
were, diseases from the body. For some constitutions the first
breath
of the oven immediately after the warming is considered best, for
others the mild warmth of later hours is thought more commendable.
I,
for myself, who have accompanied my mother and gone through the
torture, do not like either very much. The health-seekers rent
rooms
in a few large cottages standing near by. In fact, they live out of
town, free from business and domestic cares, pass time at games, or
saunter and breathe pure air under pine-trees in the neighborhood.
The establishment is opened only during summer time. A person ought
to get well in whiling away in free air those glorious summer days
without the aid of the roasting scheme.To
the left of the harbor along the shore stands the main body of
Imabari. Mt. Myozin heaves in sight long before anything of the
town
can be seen. It is not remarkable as a mountain, but being so near
my
town, whenever I have espied it on my return I have felt at home. I
can remember its precise outline. As we draw nearer,
white-plastered
warehouses, the sea-god's shrine jutting out into the water, and
the
castle stone walls come in our view. You observe no church-steeple,
that pointed object so characteristically indicative of a city at a
distance in the Christian community. To be sure, the pagoda towers
toward the sky in the community of Buddhists; but it is more
elaborate and costly a thing than the steeple, and Imabari is too
poor to have one.Facing
the town, in the sea, rises a mountainous island; it encloses with
the neighboring islets the Imabari sound. A report goes that on
this
island lies a gigantic stone, apparently immovable by human agency,
so situated that a child can rock it with one hand. Also that a
monster of a tortoise, centuries old, floats up occasionally from
an
immeasurable abyss near the island to sun itself; and those who had
seen it thought it was an island.Very
picturesque if viewed from the sea but painfully poverty-stricken
to
the sight when near, is a quarter closely adjoining Imabari on the
north. It is on the shore and entirely made up of fisher-men's
homes.
The picturesque, straw-thatched cottages stand under tall, knotty
pine-trees and send up thin curls of smoke. Their occupants are,
however, untidy, careless, ignorant, dirty; the squalid children
let
loose everywhere in ragged dress, bareheaded and barefooted. The
men,
naked all summer and copper-colored, go fishing for days at a time
in
their boats; the women sell the fishes in the streets of Imabari. A
fisher-woman carries her fishes in a large, shallow, wooden tub
that
rests on her head; she also carries on her breast a babe that
cannot
be left at home.Imabari
has about a dozen streets. They are narrow, dirty, and have no
sidewalks; man and beast walk the same path. As no carriages and
wagons rush by, it is perfectly safe for one to saunter along the
streets half asleep. The first thing I noticed upon my landing in
New
York was, that in America a man had to look out every minute for
his
personal safety. From time to time I was collared by the captain
who
had charge of me with, "Here, boy!" and I frequently found
great truck horses or an express wagon almost upon me. In crossing
the streets, horse-cars surprised me more than once in a way I did
not like, and the thundering engine on the Manhattan road caused me
to crouch involuntarily. Imabari is quite a different place; all is
peace and quiet there. In one section of the town blacksmiths
reside
exclusively, making the street black with coal dust. In another
granite workers predominate, rendering the street white with fine
stone chips. On Temple street, you remark temples of different
Buddhist denominations, standing side by side in good fellowship;
and
in Fishmongers' alley all the houses have fish-stalls, and are
filled
with the odor of fish. The Japanese do not keep house in one place
and store in another; they live in their stores. Neither do we have
that singular system of boarding houses. Our people have homes of
their own, however poor.My
family lived on the main street, which is divided into four
subdivisions or "blocks." The second block is the
commercial centre, so to speak, of the town, and there my father
kept
a store. My grandfather, I understood, resided in another street
before he moved with his son-in-law, my father, to the main street.
He lived to the great age of eighty: I shall always remember him
with
honor and respect. Of my grandmother I know absolutely nothing, she
having passed away before I was born.It
is customary in Japan that a man too old for business and whose
head
is white with the effect of many weary winters, should retire and
hibernate in a quiet chamber, or in a cottage called inkyo (hiding
place), and be waited upon by his eldest son or son-in-law who
succeeds him in business. My good grandfather—his kindly face and
pleasant words come back to me this moment—lived in a nice little
house in the rear of my father's. Although strong in mind he was
bent
with age and went about with the help of a bamboo cane. He lived
alone, had little to do, but read a great deal, and thought much,
and
when tired did some light manual work. It was a great pleasure for
me
to visit him often. In cold winter days he would be found sitting
by
kotatsu, a native heating apparatus. It is constructed on the
following plan: a hole a foot square is cut in the centre of the
matted floor, wherein a stone vessel is fitted, and a frame of wood
about a foot high laid on it so as to protect the quilt that is to
be
spread over it, from burning. The vessel is filled with ashes, and
a
charcoal fire is burned in it. I used to take my position near my
grandfather, with my hands and feet beneath the quilt, and ask him
to
tell stories. My feet were either bare or in a pair of socks, for
before getting on the floor we leave our shoes in the yard. Our
shoes, by the way, are more like the ancient Jewish sandals than
the
modern leather shoes.In
this little house of my grandfather's I erected my own private
shrine
of Tenjinsan, the god of penmanship. The Japanese and the Chinese
value highly a skilful hand at writing; a famous scroll-writer gets
a
large sum of money with a few strokes of his brush; he is looked up
to like a celebrated painter. We school-boys occasionally proposed
penmanship contests. On the same sheet of paper each of us wrote,
one
beside another, his favorite character, or did his best at one
character we had mutually agreed upon, and took it to our teacher
to
decide upon the finest hand. The best specimens of a school are
sometimes framed and hung on the walls of a public temple of
Tenjin.
He is worshiped by all school-boys, and I also followed the
fashion.
My image of him was made of clay; I laid it on a shelf and offered
saké (rice-wine) in two tiny earthen bottles, lighted a little lamp
every night and put up prayers in childish zeal. The family
rejoiced
at my devotion; they finally bought me, one holiday, a miniature
toy
temple. It was painted in gay colors; I was delighted with it
beyond
expression, and my devotion increased tenfold.