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In A Foreign Country, Nigel Pantling takes us to some strange places - the exotic, the imaginary and the rediscovered past - and for each he serves up a heady local brew, equal parts memory, invention, wit and menace. Here, North Korean tourists rub shoulders with Syrian adventurers, the newly dead with a City lothario, Popeye and Olive Oyl with Cold War warriors. Surprising and unsettling by turns, these poems are a whistle-stop journey though different times, countries and customs, enriched by deep personal experience.
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A Foreign Country
Nigel Pantling’s pamphlets Belfast Finds Log (Shoestring Press, 2014) and Hip Hind Hook (Smith|Doorstop, 2018) relate the danger and human frailty he saw during Northern Ireland’s Troubles and the Cold War. His full collections Kingdom Power Glory and It’s Not Personal (Smith|Doorstop, 2016 and 2020) lift the lid on the secrets of Whitehall and the City, and on the eccentricities of work and the unpredictability of family, love and death.
Published 2025
by The Poetry Business
Campo House,
54 Campo Lane,
Sheffield S1 2EG
www.poetrybusiness.co.uk
Copyright © Nigel Pantling 2025
The moral rights of the author have been asserted.
ISBN 978-1-914914-45-4
eBook ISBN 978-1-914914-46-1
All rights reserved.
Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
Designed & typeset by Utter.
Cover author photo: Derek Adams.
Printed by Imprint Digital.
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Smith|Doorstop is a member of Inpress
www.inpressbooks.co.uk.
Distributed by BookSource, 50 Cambuslang Road,
Cambuslang Investment Park, Glasgow G32 8NB.
The Poetry Business gratefully acknowledges the support of Arts Council England.
North Korea 2011
At the Airport
Pyongyang Metro
Panmunjon Demilitarised Zone
The Axe Incident
Meeting the General
The Birthday Dress
White Coats
Free Enterprise
Pit Stop
Ripley’s Believe It or Not 1937
Card Game
The Galérien
Choices
A String of Pearls
BAOR 1974
Marching In with the Regimental Quarter Master Sergeant
On the Young Officers’ Course
Dinner in the Mess
Night Reconnaissance
O Group
Tactical Exercise Without Troops
Witness Statement
Crossing Over
Sex in The City 2000-2009
Sexual Politics
City Lunch
City Dinner
Full Disclosure
Risk
Agency
Crib
Nepal 2007
Looking for Tigers
The Sway of the Elephant’s Shoulder
Trekking
Contrasts
If My Father asks to be Cremated in Kathmandu
Chester, Illinois some time in the 1990s
Newscast
Lady Pye has a Visitor
Back at The Daily Bugle
Olive Oyl
Bluto
Wimpy
Lil’ Swee’Pea
Linslade 2015-2020
Fireside Story 1
Fireside Story 2
Fireside Story 3
Fireside Story 4
Fireside Story 5
Early Warning
Not So Much
Taking Charge
Last Wish
Reading My Father’s Blue Notebook Stamped ‘Save the Rhino’
The Waiting Room
House Rules
Georgie Q
Beattie R
Margaret T
An Inspector Calls
Syria 2009
Damascus: The Old City
Damascus: The City Walls
Apamea
Bosra
Palmyra
Acknowledgements
For my father
The past is a foreign country; they dothings differently there.
– L P Hartley
We surrender our mobile phones
to be shrink-wrapped and secured.
Mrs Lee steps forward: she is our guide
and in her trimmed English she asks us
to confirm we have packed no drugs,
newspapers, books or religious tracts.
Mr O, beside her, grey suited, silent,
is always to be with us. We are warned
not to move away from our group of five
or to speak to local people unless invited
or to photograph without permission,
always to call Kim Il Sung “Great Leader”
and never to fold a newspaper across
his photograph or put it aside face down.
Mrs Lee explains that her people expect
these simple courtesies from their visitors.
She has a gift for us with compliments of
People’s Democratic Republic of Korea:
a selection of the Great Leader’s writings
about Juche, his philosophy of self-reliance,
which guides all people in what they do.
Later, there is karaoke: Mr O stays silent.
Mrs Lee sings “Juche iron is the strongest”
I sing “Let’s spend the night together”.
Rehabilitation’s escalators have up-lighters
like the ones on the old Northern Line;
and cheerful music – piped, not buskers –
and instead of adverts the platform walls
have massive multi-coloured tiled mosaics.
In this one we see the Great Leader,
back-lit by the fire of furnace and oven
and framed by pylons and chimneys,
giving on-the-spot-advice to attentive
miners, masons, munitions workers
and to young farmers, who stride past,
right, for a Morning of Innovation,
and return, left, later in the day
waving flowers and the national flag,
singing The Song of a Bumper Crop.
We are directed to the wooden-slatted seats
on the next train in, and arriving at Glory,
we find more mosaics, marble pillars,
stone arches and coloured chandeliers,
recalling the fireworks at the Great Victory.
Here too is music: now brisk and triumphal.
Mrs Lee says that no-one listens for long,
because the Great Leader has ensured
the on-timetable running of the trains,
for the greater convenience of the people.
At the surface, I find my camera’s faulty.
I ask if I can go back down the escalator
to take some of the photographs again.
Not possible, says Mrs Lee, looking at Mr O.
It is not permitted to change the schedule.
Weapons may not be carried here.
The arsenal of mutual choice is
propaganda and indoctrination.
The Parallel is a white line on tarmac,
running through the middle of the hut
and across the long table where they sat
each technically still in their own country
and agreed to move their machine guns
fifty metres back, onto identical towers,
where now soldiers barely out of school
watch each other for signs of aggression.
Somewhere over there, in the South –
here called Nam-Joseon, not Hanguk –
a tourist waves: beside me a soldier’s
arm responds, checks itself, falls back.
Mrs Lee tells us about The Incident in 1976,
when in an act of imperialist aggression
US soldiers entered the Zone to cut back
the branches of a poplar planted by Kim Il Sung.
