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Never run out of backyard DIY woodworking projects when you have a copy of Making Practical Backyard Projects in Wood: Plans and Patterns for Better Outdoor Living! Featuring contributions from a veritable all-star team of DIY experts from Alan and Gill Bridgewater to woodworking teacher Bill Hylton, this collection of 20 home woodworking and backyard makeover ideas is an instant cure for cabin fever. Inside, you'll find plans for smaller builds--think herb boxes and birdhouses--as well as plans for larger projects like planter benches, tool sheds, and classic Adirondack chairs. With additional contributions from master birdhouse designer Paul Meisel and tips from Mike McGrath, former host of PBS's You Bet Your Garden, it's an encyclopedic examination of everything wood can do to improve the look and feel of your outdoor living space. Making Practical Backyard Projects in Wood doesn't stop there, either. Don't be surprised if you learn all sorts of fascinating outdoor DIY tidbits that make you want to maximize every inch of your balcony or yard.
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© 2025 Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc.
Making Practical Backyard Projects in Wood is an original work, first published in 2025 by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc. The patterns contained herein are copyrighted by the authors. Readers may make copies of these patterns for personal use. The patterns themselves, however, are not to be duplicated for resale or distribution under any circumstances. Any such copying is a violation of copyright law.
ISBN 978-1-4971-0508-9
eISBN 978-1-63741-500-9
The Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on file with the Library of Congress.
To learn more about the other great books from Fox Chapel Publishing, or to find a retailer near you, call toll-free 800-457-9112, send mail to 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552, or visit us at www.FoxChapelPublishing.com.
We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].
Because working with wood and other materials inherently includes the risk of injury and damage, this book cannot guarantee that creating the projects in this book is safe for everyone. For this reason, this book is sold without warranties or guarantees of any kind, expressed or implied, and the publisher and the author disclaim any liability for any injuries, losses, or damages caused in any way by the content of this book or the reader’s use of the tools needed to complete the projects presented here. The publisher and the author urge all readers to thoroughly review each project and to understand the use of all tools before beginning any project.
For a printable PDF of the patterns used in this book, please contact Fox Chapel Publishing at [email protected], with Making Practical Backyard Projects in Wood 978-1-49710-508-9 in the subject line.
Introduction
Tools & Safety
Projects
Birds, Bats, Bees & Butterflies
Stylish Birdhouse
Bird Feeder
Bat Box
Japanese Birdbath
Bug Hotel
Games & Décor
Backyard Dominoes
Tic-Tac-Toe
Gnome Door
For the Garden
Lyrical Herb Box
Plant Markers
Potato Planter
Cold Frame
Rainwater Harvester
Bonus: Growing Great Tomatoes
Furniture & Larger Builds
Hammock Stand
Victorian Toolshed
Planter Bench
Classic Arbor
Adirondack Chair
Plans
About the Authors
There’s nothing like coming home to an outdoor space that’s relaxing and full of wildlife. With the projects in this book, you can look forward to both. Start small with an herb box you can place right on the porch—and some easy plant markers to go with it. Then, make your yard a pollinator’s paradise with a DIY insect hotel, bird bath, bat box, bird feeder, and bird house. If you’re into bigger builds, you can construct everything from a potato planter and rainwater harvester to an attractive toolshed and Adirondack chair. We even threw in a few decorative designs for fun, like a gnome door.
The best part about these projects is that you don’t need years of woodworking experience to be successful; each one includes directions, high-quality photography, and detailed materials lists to help you on your way. Whatever you choose to make, you’ll be one step closer to creating a more ecofriendly, beautiful, and welcoming space for you and the creatures you share it with.
Enjoy!
The projects in this book range from small yard accents to large structures, but they all have a few tools in common. If you don’t already have a basic tool kit—or if the components have been scattered over the years—save time and frustration by collecting these tools in a bag or bin before you start your first project. You probably already own most of them, but if you need to invest in one or two, rest assured you will use them regularly for years to come.
•Hammer: This is an essential tool to any workshop.
•Screwdrivers/drill with screwdriver bits: For the sake of ease and convenience, we recommend a cordless drill. Most outdoor screws have a Phillips head, but some are a combination of Phillips and Robertson (square-drive) head. Avoid slotted screws, if possible.
•Pliers: Regular; needle-nose.
•Marking tools: Pencil and sharpener; black marker. If you plan to work with dark wood, such as teak, mechanical pencils with white lead are available at most fabric stores.
•Measuring tools and straight edges: Ruler; tape measure. Try square for smaller projects; carpenter’s square for larger projects. A combination square (optional) allows you to adjust the length of the ruler side to fit into tighter areas or for marking distances and to draw lines at a 45-degree angle.
•Clamps: Spring clamps; bar clamps. Web clamps are useful for holding irregularly shaped projects.
•Adjustable wrench: An essential tool for any workshop, the adjustable wrench can be used to tighten or loosen nuts and bolts of various sizes. Its adjustable jaw allows it to grip onto different widths, making it incredibly versatile for woodworking projects involving metal fasteners.
•Level: Crucial for ensuring your projects are perfectly horizontal or vertical, a level is used to check the alignment and flatness of surfaces. It’s indispensable when you need to guarantee that your work, from shelving to frames, is precisely even and balanced.
•Cutting tools: Scissors; wire cutters; razor blade.
•Adhesives: Wood glue; blue painter’s tape; clear packaging tape; spray adhesive.
Having the right tools at your fingertips will ensure successful completion of any outdoor project.
Whenever you use power tools, there is a chance of injury—anything from dust in your eye to serious cuts. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, use common sense, and heed these precautions to keep yourself safe:
•Wear safety glasses: When you’re cutting, drilling, or even driving screws and nails, there is a chance of material flying off and hitting you in the eye. Safety glasses protect your eyes from flying debris and dust.
•Use a dust mask: Inhaling enough wood dust can injure your lungs, and the dust from varieties of wood that resist decay can be harmful even in small quantities. For small jobs, wear a disposable dust mask. If you’re cutting or sanding a lot of wood, invest in a respirator-type mask to filter out even the smallest particles.
•Protect your ears: Experts say that exposure to noise as loud as a blender for more than 30 seconds can damage your hearing. Many shop tools—circular saw, jigsaw, table saw, and even a sander—exceed this threshold. Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing.
•Wear gloves: Heavy-duty gloves will protect your hands and help you avoid splinters, and latex or rubber gloves will keep your hands clean during finishing. Do not wear gloves when operating machinery that may snag the glove, as this can result in serious injury.
A dust mask, hearing protection, and eye protection are essential when working with wood.
BY BARRY MCKENZIE
With its classically shingled roof and brilliant, stylized chip carving, you might be hesitant to hang this birdhouse outdoors. But the project is weather resistant, and returning songbirds will reward your generosity with their cheerful presence.
The birdhouse is fairly simple to construct. The bottom of the house has a gate hook to keep the hinged front from being opened by a predator or pushed out by too much nesting material inside. The roof is at a 12-degree slope for water run-off, and the shingles, while easy to carve, make an impressive display.
Use basswood, butternut, or white cedar; more dense wood is difficult to chip carve. The dimensions of this project will change if you use wood thinner than ¾" (1.9cm).
The hinged front panel opens for easy cleaning and secures with a simple gate hook.
Tools and Materials
• Pencil
• Chip carving knife
• Gouge of choice
• Ruler
• Assorted paintbrushes
• Basswood‚ ¾" (1.9cm) thick: bottom, 4" x 5" (10.2 x 12.7cm) (A)
• Basswood‚ ¾" (1.9cm) thick: rear, 5" x 8 15/16" (12.7 x 22.7cm) (B)
• Basswood‚ ¾" (1.9cm) thick: front, 5" x 77/8" (12.7 x 24.5cm) (C)
• Basswood‚ ¾" (1.9cm) thick: sides, 5½" x 8 15/16" (64.8 x 22.7cm) (D), top angles from 77/8" (20cm) up to 8 15/16" (22.7cm)
• Basswood‚ ¾" (1.9cm) thick: roof, 7" x 8 15/16" (17.8 x 129.4cm) (E)
• Wooden dowel‚ ¼"–5/16" (6–8mm)-dia.: 2 each 1" (2.5cm) long, (F); Do not glue in place
• Gatehook set: 2" (5.1cm) long
• Glue: exterior weather-resistant
• Dark acrylic paint of choice
• Finish‚ such as exterior spar urethane
• Graphite paper
CONSTRUCTION NOTES
• Drill holes for dowels at least ½" (1.3cm) deep.
• Place the two hinge dowels in the front piece before assembling.
• The dowels can be up to ⁵⁄16" (8mm) dia.
• To accommodate the latch, the sides are not flush with the bottom part (A).
• The top of the front piece (C) has rounded edges to clear the underside of the roof when you swing it open.
1. Divide the roof into rows. Draw six horizontal lines, 1" (2.5cm) apart, across the width of the roof to make seven rows of shingles. Make a deep stop cut along these lines with a chip carving knife. The cuts should be between 1/16" (2mm) and ⅛" (3mm) deep.
2. Taper the shingles. Use a gouge of your choice to remove wood up to the vertical cuts made in Step 1. Taper the shingles so it looks like the lower shingle disappears beneath the edge of the one above it. Feel free to deepen the stop cut as you go. Work across each row before moving on to the next. The depth is up to you.
3. Divide the rows into shingles. Each row of shingles is staggered in relation to the row above it. Start with a shingle width of about ¾" (1.9cm), and vary the width from there. Do not make every shingle the same width. Cut along these lines with the chip carving knife to divide the rows into individual shingles.
4. Outline the thickness of the shingles. Carve a line along the bottom and sides of the shingles to represent the thickness. This gives the illusion that each shingle is individually carved. Since each row is tapered, it will look like the individual shingles are tapered. Do not sand the shingles smooth.
5. Mount the gate hook. Screw the eyelet into the front (C) just below the bottom (A). Do not screw the eyelet in completely; that way, you can adjust the fit of the hook after you attach it to the bottom (A). Screw the hook in place, and test the fit. If the hook fits loosely, tighten the eyelet screwed into the front (C) until the hook holds tightly.
6. Chip carve the design. Transfer the design to the painted birdhouse using light-colored graphite paper. Cut along one side of the pattern line, angling the knife in so the cut ends at the center of the chip to be removed. Flip the birdhouse around and cut in toward the center from the other side to free the chip. Make sure the lines are smooth and even.
CHIP TIP
The type of chip carving in this project is called “stylized free-form,” which is not as precise as geometric chip carving. Chip carving through paint does have a tendency to dull the knife’s cutting edge a little faster, so I strop more often. You could easily carve the design in shallow relief, if desired.
BIRDHOUSE BASICS
• I didn’t add a perch because predators tend to use the perch more often than the songbirds. I have seen nesting birds fly straight into the hole and exit the same way.
• The location of the birdhouse should be as far as 100 feet away from other competitive birds. Even self-nesting birds will be harassed by a bluebird if they are using a birdhouse nearby.
• Clean out the birdhouse in early spring before the migrating birds return. Before opening the birdhouse, make sure nobody has taken up residence. I have seen several bluebirds share a birdhouse over a mild winter. I also have one flying squirrel that has made a permanent home in one of my birdhouses. It was a big surprise to both of us when I tried to clean out the bedding material and found a wide-eyed flying squirrel looking back at me!
BY JON DECK
Any time is a great time to provide wild birds much-needed nutrition as natural supplies grow scarce. With four seed hoppers, this feeder holds a large amount of food for winter feeding, and lets you offer a variety of seed mixes to attract more species to your backyard year-round.
This project requires basic scrolling skills, but the woodworking aspects can be a bit of a challenge. It’s important that the components are measured and cut with care for a good fit during assembly. I recommend cutting all the hopper face layers (plywood, hardboard, and acrylic) on a table saw for accurate panels. The feeder must bear up to the elements, so materials should be rated for exterior use. When called for, allow adequate painting and drying time between those steps before moving on. Plastic milk jugs make perfect seamless seed hoppers and let you recycle in a rather unique way.
All of the ½" (or 1.3cm) plywood parts can be cut from a single 24" by 48" (61cm by 1.2m) sheet. Follow the measured drawing and parts list (here) and lay out all your measurements carefully with a square.
Tools and Materials
• Exterior plywood, ½" (1.3cm) thick: 24" x 48" (61cm x 1.2m)
• Pine, 1x2: 72" (1.8m) long
• Pine, 1x6: 48" (1.2m) long
• Tempered hardboard, ⅛ (3mm) thick: 24" x 48" (61cm x 1.2m)
• Clear acrylic plastic, 2mm thick: 18" x 24" (45.7 x 61cm)
• Plastic jugs: 4 each, one gallon
• Dowels: 3/16" (5mm)-dia. x 18" (45.7cm), ½" (1.3cm)-dia. x 48" (1.2m)
• Large wooden finial
• Screws, exterior: 1 ¼", 2½" (3.2, 6.4cm)
• Screws, lath: 9/16" (1.4cm)
• Nails, 18 gauge: ⅝", 1¼" (1.6, 3.2cm)
• Glue: exterior wood, cyanoacrylate (CA)
• Wood filler, exterior
• Caulk, exterior silicone: clear
• Sandpaper: 120, 220 grit
• Spray adhesive: temporary-bond
• Tape: blue painter’s, clear packaging
• Paint, exterior: spray and/or brushable
• Spar varnish: clear spray
• Rare earth magnets, rectangular: 8 each 2mm-thick
• Hinges, narrow: 4 pair 1"
• Tape measure
• Steel rule or straightedge
• Large square
• Scroll saw blades: #5 skip-tooth
• Saws: table, miter
• Drill with bits: 1/16" (2mm), ⅛" (3mm), 3/16" (5mm) dia. twist, #2 Phillips head
• Nail gun: 18-gauge finish
• Screwdriver
• Caulking gun
• Clamps: assorted
• Utility knife
• Kitchen shears
• Paintbrush
1. Cut out the section supports (A). Use a scroll saw. For one, make a slot from the top, and for the other, from the bottom. Draw a pencil line ¼" (6.4mm) from the right and left edges on both sides of each support. Set the scroll saw to 45 degrees and cut a bevel on the four marked edges to form the outside corners of the feeder. Make these bevels on both supports. Cut the tray (B) on a table saw.
2. Slide the two section supports together.