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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Ratgeber
- Sprache: Englisch
Quickly make sense of mortgages Taking out a mortgage to purchase real estate is a huge decision, one that could affect your family's finances for years to come. This easy-to-follow guide explains how to secure the best and lowest-cost mortgage for your unique situation. Whether you select a 15- or 30-year mortgage, you'll get all the tips and tricks you need to pay it off faster--shortening your payment schedule and saving your hard-earned cash. * Fine-tune your finances * Qualify for a mortgage * Secure the best loan * Find your best lender * Refinance your mortgage * Pay down your loan quicker * Must-knows about foreclosure * Top mortgage no-nos
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Seitenzahl: 502
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2017
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Mortgage Management For Dummies by Eric Tyson and Robert Griswold
Eric and Robert’s Top Tips for Borrowers
Before
you get a mortgage, be sure you understand your personal financial situation. The amount of money a banker is willing to lend you isn’t necessarily the amount you can “afford” to borrow given your financial goals and current situation. See
Chapter 1
.
Maximize your chances for getting the mortgage you want the first time you apply by understanding how lenders evaluate your creditworthiness. Don’t waste time and money on loans that end up rejected. Most obstacles to mortgage qualification can and should be overcome prior to submitting a loan application. See
Chapters 2
and
3
.
Because the ocean of mortgage programs is bordered with reefs of jargon, learn loan lingo before you begin your mortgage-shopping voyage. This will enable you to hook the best loan and avoid being taken in by loan sharks. See
Chapter 4
and
Appendix C
, the Glossary.
To select the best type of fixed-rate or adjustable-rate mortgage for your situation, clarify two important issues. How long do you expect to keep the loan? How much financial risk are you able to accept? See
Chapter 5
.
Special situation loans — such as a home equity loan or 80-10-10 financing — could be just what you need. However, some “special” loans, such as 100 percent loans and balloon loans, can be toxic. See
Chapter 6
.
Whether you do it yourself or hire a mortgage broker to shop for you, canvas a variety of lenders when seeking the best mortgage. Be sure to shop not only for a low-cost loan but also for lenders that provide a high level of service. See
Chapter 7
.
Investigate when shopping for a mortgage on the Internet. Be cautious. You may save time and money. Or you could end up with aggravation and a worse loan. See
Chapter 8
.
Compare various lenders’ mortgage programs and understand the myriad costs and features associated with each loan. To help you keep score and do a fair comparison, we provide helpful worksheets. See
Chapter 9
.
Just as you must prepare a compelling résumé as the first step to securing a job you want, craft a positive, truthful mortgage application as a key to getting the loan you want. See
Chapter 10
.
After you get a mortgage to purchase a home, stay informed about interest rates, because a drop in rates could provide a money-saving opportunity. Refinancing — that is, obtaining a new mortgage to replace an existing one — can save you big money. Assess how long it will take you to recoup your out-of-pocket refinance costs. See
Chapter 11
.
You may benefit from paying off your mortgage faster than is required. But before you do, examine what else you could do with that extra cash and what may be best for your situation. See
Chapter 12
.
If you’re among the increasing number of homeowners who reach retirement with insufficient assets for their golden years, carefully consider a reverse mortgage, which enables older homeowners to tap their home’s equity. Reverse mortgages are more complicated to understand than traditional mortgages. See
Chapter 13
.
If you fall on tough economic times and get behind on your housing payments, don’t resign yourself to foreclosure. Take stock of the situation. Review your spending and debts and begin a dialogue with your lender to find a solution. Make use of low-cost counseling approved by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development. See
Chapter 14
.
Use the Loan Amortization Tables in
Appendix A
to determine your monthly payment after you know a loan’s interest rate and term (number of years until final payoff).
After you’ve had a loan awhile, see the Remaining Balance Tables in
Appendix B
to know how much of your original loan balance remains to be paid.
Mortgage Payment Calculator*
To calculate your monthly mortgage payment, simply multiply the relevant number from the following table by the size of your mortgage expressed in (divided by) thousands of dollars. For example, on a 30-year mortgage of $125,000 at 7.5 percent, you multiply 125 by 7.00 (from the table) to come up with an $875 monthly payment.
Interest Rate (%)
Term of Mortgage
15 years
30 years
4
7.40
4.77
4⅛
7.46
4.85
4¼
7.52
4.92
4⅜
7.59
4.99
4½
7.65
5.07
4⅝
7.71
5.14
4¾
7.78
5.22
4⅞
7.84
5.29
5
7.91
5.37
5⅛
7.98
5.45
5¼
8.04
5.53
5⅜
8.11
5.60
5½
8.18
5.68
5⅝
8.24
5.76
5¾
8.31
5.84
5⅞
8.38
5.92
6
8.44
6.00
6⅛
8.51
6.08
6¼
8.58
6.16
6⅜
8.65
6.24
6½
8.72
6.33
6⅝
8.78
6.41
6¾
8.85
6.49
6⅞
8.92
6.57
7
8.99
6.66
7⅛
9.06
6.74
7¼
9.13
6.83
7⅜
9.20
6.91
7½
9.28
7.00
7⅝
9.35
7.08
7¾
9.42
7.17
7⅞
9.49
7.26
8
9.56
7.34
8⅛
9.63
7.43
8¼
9.71
7.52
8⅜
9.78
7.61
8½
9.85
7.69
8⅝
9.93
7.78
8¾
10.00
7.87
8⅞
10.07
7.96
9
10.15
8.05
9⅛
10.22
8.14
9¼
10.30
8.23
9⅜
10.37
8.32
9½
10.45
8.41
9⅝
10.52
8.50
9¾
10.60
8.60
9⅞
10.67
8.69
10
10.75
8.78
10⅛
10.83
8.87
10¼
10.90
8.97
10⅜
10.98
9.06
10½
11.06
9.15
10⅝
11.14
9.25
10¾
11.21
9.34
10⅞
11.29
9.43
11
11.37
9.53
11¼
11.53
9.72
11½
11.69
9.91
11¾
11.85
10.10
12
12.01
10.29
12¼
12.17
10.48
12½
12.17
10.48
*Warning: Mortgage payments are only a portion of the costs of owning a home. See Chapter 1 for figuring out your total costs and fitting them into your personal finances.
Copyright © 2017 Eric Tyson and Robert Griswold All rights reserved.
Mortgage Management For Dummies®
Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com
Copyright © 2017 by Eric Tyson and Robert Griswold
Published simultaneously in Canada
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2017942339
ISBN 978-1-119-38779-4 (pbk); ISBN 978-1-119-38780-0 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-119-38781-7 (ebk)
Mortgage Management For Dummies®
To view this book's Cheat Sheet, simply go to www.dummies.com and search for “Mortgage Management For Dummies Cheat Sheet” in the Search box.
Table of Contents
Cover
Introduction
How This Book is Different
Foolish Assumptions
Icons Used in This Book
Beyond the Book
Where to Go from Here
Part 1: Getting Started with Mortgages
Chapter 1: Determining Your Borrowing Power
Only You Can Determine the Mortgage Debt You Can Afford
Determine Your Potential Homeownership Expenses
Consider the Impact of a New House on Your Financial Future
Chapter 2: Qualifying for a Mortgage
Getting Preapproved for a Loan
Evaluating Your Creditworthiness: The Underwriting Process
Eyeing Predicament-Solving Strategies
Chapter 3: Scoping Out Your Credit Score
Defining Credit Scores
Assessing Your Credit History
Understanding How Scores Work
Part 2: Locating a Loan
Chapter 4: Fathoming the Fundamentals
Grasping Loan Basics: Principal, Interest, Term, and Amortization
Deciphering Mortgage Lingo
Eyeing Classic Mortgage Jargon Duets
Introducing the Punitive Ps
Chapter 5: Selecting the Best Home Purchase Loan
Three Questions to Help You Pick the Right Mortgage
Fixed-Rate Mortgages: No Surprises
Adjustable-Rate Mortgages (ARMs)
Fine-Tuning Your Thought Process
Getting a Loan When Rates Are High
Chapter 6: Surveying Special Situation Loans
Understanding Home Equity Loans
Eyeing 100 Percent Home Equity Loans
Taking a Closer Look at Co-Op Loans
Grasping Balloon Loans
Part 3: Landing a Lender
Chapter 7: Finding Your Best Lender
Going with a Mortgage Broker or Direct Lender?
Seller Financing: The Trials and Tribulations
Chapter 8: Searching for Mortgage Information Online
Obeying Our Safe Surfing Tips
Perusing Our Recommended Mortgage Websites
Chapter 9: Choosing Your Preferred Mortgage
Taking a Look at Loan Fees
Avoiding Dangerous Loan Features
Comparing Lenders’ Programs
Applying with One or More Lenders
Chapter 10: Managing Mortgage Paperwork
Pounding the Paperwork
Filling Out the Uniform Residential Loan Application
Introducing Other Typical Documents
Part 4: Profiting from Smart Mortgage Strategies
Chapter 11: Refinancing Your Mortgage
Refinancing Rationales
Cost-Cutting Refinances
Restructuring Refinances
Cash-Out Refinances
Expediting Your Refi
Beating Borrower’s Remorse
Chapter 12: Paying Down Your Mortgage Quicker
One Size Doesn’t Fit All
Deciding Whether to Repay Your Mortgage Faster
Developing Your Payoff Plan
Chapter 13: Reverse Mortgages for Retirement Income
Grasping the Reverse Mortgage Basics
Shopping for a Reverse Mortgage
Deciding Whether You Want a Reverse Mortgage
Part 5: The Part of Tens
Chapter 14: Ten-Plus “Must-Knows” About Foreclosure
Deal with Reality
Review Your Spending and Debts
Beware of Foreclosure Scams
Consider Tapping Other Assets
Make Use of Objective Counseling
Negotiate with Your Lender
Understand Short Sales
Seek Legal and Tax Advice
Understand Bankruptcy
Consider the Future Impact to Your Credit Report
Understand the Realities of Investing in Foreclosed Property
Chapter 15: Ten Mortgage No-Nos
Don’t Let Lenders Tell You What You Can Afford
Never Confuse Loan Prequalification with Preapproval
Avoid Loans with Prepayment Penalties
Don’t Reflexively Grab a Fixed-Rate Mortgage
Steer Clear of Toxic 100 Percent Home Equity Loans
Watch Out for Mortgage Brokers with Hidden Agendas
Shun Negative Amortization Mortgages
Don’t Let the 2 Percent Rule Bully You When Refinancing
Don’t Assume That All Reverse Mortgages Are the Same or Bad
Avoid Mortgage Life Insurance
Part 6: Appendixes
Appendix A: Loan Amortization Table
Appendix B: Remaining Balance Tables
Appendix C: Glossary
About the Authors
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
Guide
Cover
Table of Contents
Begin Reading
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Introduction
Welcome to Mortgage Management For Dummies! If you own or want to own real estate, you need to understand mortgages. Whether you need a loan to buy your first home, want to refinance an existing mortgage, seek to finance investment properties, or are interested in tapping some of the value you’ve built up in your home over the years, you’ve found the right book.
Unfortunately for most of us, the mortgage field is jammed with jargon and fraught with fiscal pitfalls. Choose the wrong mortgage and you could end up squandering money better saved for important financial goals, such as covering higher education tuition for your adorable little gremlins, buying that second home you’ve always wanted, or simply having more resources for your retirement. In the worst cases, you could end up losing your home to foreclosure and end up in personal bankruptcy. Just look at what happened in the late 2000s when the real estate market declined in many parts of the country. Folks who overextended themselves with risky mortgages ended up in foreclosure.
For typical homeowners, the monthly mortgage payment is either their largest or, after income taxes, second largest expense. When you’re shopping for a mortgage, you could easily waste many hours and suffer financial losses by not getting the best loan that you can based on your specific needs and financial situation.
Because so much is at stake, we want to help you make the best decisions possible. That’s where we come in.
How This Book is Different
How is this book different and better than competing mortgage books, you ask? Let us count the ways. Our book is
Objective:
Our goal is to make you as knowledgeable as possible
before
you commit to a particular mortgage. Most mortgage books are written by mortgage brokers or lenders who loathe to share the secrets of the mortgage business. Typically, they’re more interested in promoting their own business by convincing you to use a particular mortgage broker or lender. We’re not here to promote any specific brokers or lenders — we wrote this book to help you. Consider us your independent advisors.
Holistic:
When you obtain a mortgage, that decision affects your ability to save money and accomplish other important financial goals. We help you understand how best to fit your mortgage into the rest of your personal-finance puzzle. We also offer tips on strategies to pay off your mortgage debt efficiently or use it creatively to build overall wealth. Other mortgage books don’t help you consider these bigger-picture issues of personal finance before you buy.
Jargon-free:
One of the hallmarks of books intended to confuse and impress the reader, rather than to convey practical information and advice, is the use of all sorts of insider terms that make things sound more mysterious and complicated than they really are. We, on the other hand, pride ourselves on simplifying the complex. Between the two of us, we have more than seven decades of practical experience explaining things to real people just like you. Eric has worked as a financial counselor, teacher, and syndicated columnist. For over 15 years, Robert hosted a real estate radio program; he was the live, on-air real estate expert for NBC-TV, and he has written several real estate books. Our combined experience can put you firmly in control of the mortgage-decision-making process.
User-friendly:
You can read our book piecemeal to address your specific questions and immediate concerns. But if you want a crash course on the world of mortgages, read it cover to cover. In addition to being organized to help you quickly find the information you’re seeking, each portion of the book stands on its own.
Foolish Assumptions
Yes, we know that making assumptions is foolish, but we just can’t help ourselves. We assume that you, dear reader, fit into one of these categories:
You’re preparing to purchase your first home.
You want to refinance your current mortgage.
You desire to explore real estate as an investment.
You’re interested in tapping into the equity you’ve built up in your home.
You want to find realistic, legitimate ways to pay off or significantly reduce your mortgage early.
Icons Used in This Book
Sprinkled throughout this book are cute little icons to help reinforce and draw attention to key points or to flag stuff that you can skip over.
This icon flags key strategies that can improve your mortgage decisions and, in some cases, save you thousands of dollars. Think of these little light bulbs as highlighting words of wisdom that we would whisper in your ear if we were close enough to do so.
This icon designates something important we don’t want you to forget when you’re researching, applying for, and finalizing your mortgage.
Numerous pitfalls await prospective mortgage borrowers. This symbol denotes mistakes committed by those who have come before you. Heed these warnings and save yourself a lot of heartache.
This icon marks stuff that you don’t really have to know but that may come in handy at cocktail parties thrown by people in the mortgage industry.
Beyond the Book
In addition to the material in the print or e-book you’re reading right now, this product also comes with a free access-anywhere Cheat Sheet that can help you think about the best and most cost-effective ways to select, use, and manage mortgages. To get this Cheat Sheet, simply go to www.dummies.com and search for “Mortgage Management For Dummies Cheat Sheet” in the Search box.
Where to Go from Here
If you’re not quite sure where to start, flip to the table of contents or index and find a subject that piques your interest. Feel free to dive in wherever you find chapters that apply to your circumstances. If you’re more conventional, start at the beginning and trust us to guide you safely through the mortgage maze. By the time you finish the book, you’ll be a mortgage master.
Part 1
Getting Started with Mortgages
IN THIS PART …
Determine how much mortgage debt you can really afford.
Find out how to qualify for a mortgage and why getting preapproved is a smart move.
Discover the importance of your credit score, the secrets your credit report holds, and how to get both in top-notch shape.
Chapter 1
Determining Your Borrowing Power
IN THIS CHAPTER
Understanding how much mortgage debt you can truly afford
Estimating your likely homeownership expenses
Considering your other financial goals
If you’re like most folks, the single biggest purchase you’ll make during your lifetime will be when you buy a home. And, to make that purchase, you’ll likely have to borrow money by using a loan called a mortgage. The cumulative payments on that mortgage will far exceed the sticker price on your home due to the interest you’ll pay.
Most people thinking of purchasing a home focus solely on the price of the home. If you’re in the enviable position of being able to pay all cash, then the price is really all you need to consider in determining whether you can afford a given home. But the vast majority of people purchase real estate with financing. So although the purchase price is important, the reality is that the mortgage terms that you’re able to secure and negotiate will determine the monthly payment that you can afford and will dictate the maximum price you can pay for your new home.
In this chapter, we help you tackle this first vital subject to consider when the time comes to take out a mortgage — how much mortgage can you really afford? Note: We intend this chapter primarily to help people who are buying a home (first or not) determine what size mortgage fits their financial situation. If you’re in the mortgage market for purposes of refinancing, please also see Chapter 11.
Only You Can Determine the Mortgage Debt You Can Afford
Sit down and talk in person or by phone, or use a website to gather information and then meet face to face with a reputable mortgage lender, and you’ll be asked about your income and debts. Assuming that you have a good credit history and an adequate cash down payment, the lender can quickly estimate the amount of mortgage debt you can obtain.
Suppose a mortgage lender says that you qualify to borrow, for example, $200,000. In this case, the lender is basically telling you that, based on the assessment of your financial situation, $200,000 is the maximum amount that this lender thinks you can borrow on a mortgage before putting yourself at significantly increased risk of default. Don’t assume that the lender is saying that you can afford to carry that much mortgage debt given your other financial goals.
Your overall personal financial situation — most of which lenders, mortgage brokers, and real estate agents won’t inquire into or care about — should help you decide how much you borrow. For example, have you considered and planned for your retirement goals? Do you know how much you’re spending per month now and how much slack, if any, you have for additional housing expenses, including a larger mortgage? How much of a reserve or rainy day savings fund do you have? How are you going to pay for college expenses for your kids? Are you or will you soon be helping to care for elderly relatives?
In the following sections, we start you on the path to answering these questions.
Acknowledge your need to save
Unless you have generous parents, grandparents, or in-laws, if you want to buy a home, you need to save money. The same may be true if you desire to trade up to a more costly property. In either case, you can find yourself taking on more mortgage debt than you ever dreamed possible.
After you trade up or buy your first home, your total monthly housing expenditures and housing-related spending (such as furnishings, insurance, and utilities) will surely increase. So be forewarned that if you had trouble saving before the purchase, your finances are truly going to be squeezed after the purchase. This pinch will further handicap your ability to accomplish other important financial goals, such as saving for retirement, starting your own business, or helping to pay for your own or your children’s college education.
Because you can’t manage the unknown, the first step in assessing your ability to afford a given mortgage amount is to collect data about your monthly spending (see the following section). If you already track such data — whether by pencil and paper or on your computer — you have a head start. But don’t think you’re finished. Having your spending data is only half the battle. You also need to know how to analyze your spending data (which we explain how to do in this chapter) to help decide how much you can afford to borrow comfortably.
Collect your spending data
What could be more dreadful than sitting at home on a beautiful sunny day — or staying in at night while your friends and family are out on the town — and cozying up to your calculator, banking and credit card transactions, pay stubs, and most recent tax return?
Examining where and how much you spend on various items is almost no one’s definition of a good time (except, perhaps, for some accountants, IRS agents, actuaries, and other bean counters who crunch numbers for a living). However, if you don’t endure some pain and agony now, you could end up suffering long-term pain and agony when you get in over your head with a mortgage you can’t afford.
Now some good news: You don’t need to detail to the penny where your money goes. That simply isn’t realistic. What you’re interested in here is capturing the bulk of your expenditures and allowing for some margin for unanticipated expenses, plus savings for an emergency fund. Ideally, you should collect spending data for a three- to six-month period to determine how much you spend in a typical month on taxes, clothing, transportation, entertainment, meals out, and so forth. If your expenditures fluctuate greatly throughout the year, you may need to examine a full 12 months of your spending to get an accurate monthly average. You also want to include any known changes in upcoming expenses. Maybe your child will be starting preschool next year at a private institution or your car is getting old and you know you’ll soon want to get a new vehicle.
Later in this chapter, we provide a handy table that you can use to categorize and add up all your spending. First, however, we need to talk you through the specific and often large expenses of owning a home so you can intelligently plug those numbers into your current budget.
Determine Your Potential Homeownership Expenses
If you’re in the market to buy your first home, you probably don’t have a clear sense about the costs of homeownership. Even people who presently own a home and are considering trading up often don’t have a great grasp on their current or likely future homeownership expenses. So we include this section to help you assess your likely homeownership costs.
Making your mortgage payments
A mortgage is a loan you take out to finance the purchase of a home. Mortgage loans are generally paid in monthly installments typically over either a 15- or 30-year time span. Chapter 4 provides greater detail about how mortgages work.
In the early years of repaying your mortgage, nearly all your mortgage payment goes toward paying interest on the money that you borrowed. Not until the later years of your mortgage term do you rapidly begin to pay down your loan balance (the principal).
As we say earlier in this chapter, all that mortgage lenders can do is tell you their own criteria for approving and denying mortgage applications and calculating the maximum that you’re eligible to borrow. A mortgage lender tallies up your monthly housing expense, the components of which the lender considers to be the mortgage payment, property taxes, and homeowners insurance.
Understanding lenders’ ratios
For a given property that you’re considering buying, a mortgage lender calculates the housing expense and normally requires that it not exceed 40 percent or so of your monthly before-tax (gross) income. So, for example, if your monthly gross income is $5,000, your lender may not allow your expected monthly housing expense to exceed $2,000. If you’re self-employed and complete IRS Form 1040, Schedule C, mortgage lenders use your after-expenses (net) income, from the bottom line of Schedule C (and, in fact, add back noncash expenses for items such as real estate and equipment depreciation, which increases a self-employed person’s net income for qualification purposes).
This housing expense ratio completely ignores almost all your other financial goals, needs, and obligations. It also ignores property maintenance and remodeling expenses, which can suck up a lot of a homeowner’s dough. Never assume that the amount a lender is willing to lend you is the amount you can truly afford.
In addition to your income, the only other financial considerations a lender takes into account are your debts or ongoing monthly obligations. Specifically, mortgage lenders examine the required monthly payments for other debts you may have, such as student loans, auto loans, and credit card bills. They also deduct for alimony, child support, or any other required payments. In addition to the percentage of your income that lenders allow for housing expenses, they typically allow an additional 5 percent of your monthly income to go toward other debt repayments.
Calculating your mortgage payment amount
After you know the amount you want to borrow, calculating the size of your mortgage payment is straightforward. The challenge is figuring out how much you can comfortably afford to borrow given your other financial goals. This chapter should assist you in this regard, especially the previous section on analyzing your spending and goals.
Suppose you work through your budget and determine that you can afford to spend $2,000 per month on housing. Determining the exact size of a mortgage that allows you to stay within this boundary may seem daunting, because your overall housing cost is comprised of several components: mortgage payments, property taxes, insurance, and maintenance (and association dues if the property is a condominium or has community assets like a swimming pool).
Using Appendix A, you can calculate the size of your mortgage payments based on the amount you want to borrow, the loan’s interest rate, and whether you want a 15- or 30-year mortgage. Alternatively, you can do the same calculations by using many of the best financial calculators available for less than $50 from companies like HP and Texas Instruments. (In Chapter 8, we discuss the ubiquitous online mortgage calculators, which are often highly simplistic.)
SO YOU THINK YOU CAN HANDLE EXCESS BORROWING?
Some people we know believe they can handle more mortgage debt than lenders allow using their handy-dandy ratios. Such borrowers may seek to borrow additional money from family, or they may fib about their income when filling out their mortgage applications.
Although some homeowners who stretch themselves financially do just fine, others end up in financial and emotional trouble. You should also know that because lenders usually cross-check the information on your mortgage application with IRS Form 4506T (the lender receives your actual tax return you filed, which certainly didn’t overstate your income), borrowers who fib on their mortgage applications are caught and their applications denied.
So although we say that the lender’s word isn’t the gospel as to how much home you can truly afford, telling the truth on your mortgage application is the only way to go. It may be painful to learn that you don’t qualify for the loan you need to purchase that home of your dreams, but you’re likely better off in the long run not overextending yourself with mortgage debt.
We should also note that telling the truth prevents you from committing perjury and fraud, troubles that catch even officials elected to high office. Bankers don’t want you to get in over your head financially and default on your loan, and we don’t want you to either.
Paying property taxes
As you’re already painfully aware if you’re a homeowner now, you must pay property taxes to your local government. The taxes are generally paid to a division typically called the County or Town Tax Collector.
Property taxes are typically based on the value of a property. Because property taxes vary from one locality to another, call the relevant local tax collector’s office to determine the exact rate in your area. (Check the government section of your local phone directory to find the phone number or search for the name of the municipality and “property tax” online.) In addition to inquiring about the property tax rate in the town where you’re contemplating buying a home, also ask what additional fees and assessments may apply. In California, many recently developed areas have special assessments (such as Mello-Roos districts), which are additional property taxes to pay for enhanced infrastructure and amenities, such as parks, police/fire stations, golf courses, and landscaped medians.
If you make a smaller down payment — less than 20 percent of the home’s purchase price — your lender is likely to require you to have an impound account (also called an escrow account or reserve account). Such an account requires you to pay a monthly pro-rata portion of your annual property taxes, and often your homeowners insurance, to the lender each month along with your mortgage payment. The lender is responsible for making the necessary property tax and insurance payments to the appropriate agencies on your behalf. An impound account keeps the homeowner from getting hit with a large annual property tax bill.
As you shop for a home, be aware that real estate listings frequently contain information regarding the amount the current property owner is currently paying in taxes. These taxes are often based on an outdated, much lower property valuation. If you purchase the home, your property taxes may be significantly higher based on the price that you pay for the property. Conversely, if you happen to buy a home that has decreased in value since it was purchased, you could find that your property taxes are actually lower.
Tracking your tax write-offs
Now is a good point to pause, recognize, and give thanks for the tax benefits of homeownership. The federal tax authorities at the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) and most state governments allow you to deduct, within certain limits, mortgage interest and property taxes when you file your annual income tax return.
You may deduct the interest on the first $1 million of mortgage debt as well as all the property taxes. (This mortgage interest deductibility covers debt on both your primary residence and a second residence.) The IRS also allows you to deduct the interest costs on additional borrowing known as home equity loans or home equity lines of credit (HELOCs, see Chapter 6) to a maximum of $100,000 borrowed.
To keep things simple and get a reliable estimate of the tax savings from your mortgage interest and property tax write-off, multiply your mortgage payment and property taxes by your federal income tax rate in Table 1-1. This approximation method works fine as long as you’re in the earlier years of paying off your mortgage, because the small portion of your mortgage payment that isn’t deductible (because it’s for the repayment of the principal amount of your loan) approximately offsets the overlooked state tax savings.
TABLE 1-1 2017 Federal Income Tax Brackets and Rates
Singles Taxable Income
Married-Filing-Jointly Taxable Income
Federal Tax Rate (Bracket)
Less than $9,325
Less than $18,650
10%
$9,325 to $37,950
$18,650 to $75,900
15%
$37,950 to $91,900
$75,900 to $153,100
25%
$91,900 to $191,650
$153,100 to $233,350
28%
$191,650 to $416,700
$233,350 to $416,700
33%
$416,700 to $418,400
$416,700 to $470,700
35%
More than $418,400
More than $470,700
39.6%
Investing in insurance
When you own a home with a mortgage, your mortgage lender will insist as a condition of funding your loan that you have adequate homeowners insurance, which includes both casualty and liability coverage. The cost of your insurance policy is largely derived from the estimated cost of rebuilding your home. Although land has value, it doesn’t need to be insured, because it wouldn’t be destroyed in a fire. Buy the most comprehensive homeowners insurance coverage you can and take the highest deductible you can afford, to help minimize the cost.
As a homeowner, you’d also be wise to obtain insurance coverage against possible damage, destruction, or theft of personal property, such as clothing, furniture, kitchen appliances, audiovisual equipment, and your collection of vintage fire hydrants. Personal property goodies can cost big bucks to replace. Some prized possessions like jewelry, antiques, and collectibles are often excluded from your base policy and can require a special added coverage policy with limits that need to be set based on the replacement value of the items.
In years past, various lenders learned the hard way that some homeowners with little financial stake in the property and insufficient insurance coverage simply walked away from homes that were total losses and left the lender with the loss. Thus, in addition to sufficient casualty and liability insurance, lenders require you to purchase private mortgage insurance if you put down less than 20 percent of the purchase price when you buy. This is risk insurance that protects the lender by making the mortgage payments to the lender if you’re unable to. This could be because you have a loss of income whether from a job loss or an injury/illness.
Private mortgage insurance is an extra cost that will factor into the calculation for the amount of your loan and reduce your ability to borrow. You may be able to avoid paying private mortgage insurance by using 80-10-10 financing. We cover this technique in Chapter 6.
Budgeting for closing costs
As you budget for a given home purchase, don’t forget to budget for the inevitable laundry list of one-time closing costs. In a typical home purchase, closing costs amount to about 2 to 5 percent of the purchase price of the property. Thus, you shouldn’t ignore them when you figure the amount of money you need to close the deal. Having enough to pay the down payment on your loan just isn’t sufficient.
Some sellers may be willing to assist buyers by paying a portion of the closing costs. This is particularly true with new home subdivisions by major builders but is always negotiable with any seller. However, expect to pay a higher interest rate for a mortgage with few or no upfront fees.
Here are the major closing costs and our guidance as to how much to budget for each:
Loan-origination fees and charges:
Lenders generally levy fees for appraising the property, obtaining a copy of your credit report, preparing your loan documents, and processing your loan. They’ll also whack you 1 to 2 percent of the loan amount for a
loan-origination fee.
Another term for this prepaid interest charge, as we explain in
Chapter 9
, is
points.
If you’re strapped for cash, you can get a loan that has few or no fees; however, such loans have higher interest rates over their lifetimes. You may be able to negotiate having the seller pay these loan-closing costs. The total loan-origination fees and other charges may add up to as much as 3 percent of the mortgage amount.
Escrow fees:
These costs cover the preparation and transmission of all home-purchase-related documents and funds. Escrow fees range from several hundred to over a thousand dollars, based on the purchase price of your home.
Homeowners insurance:
Lenders generally require that you pay the first year’s premium on your homeowners insurance policy at the time of closing. Such insurance typically costs from several hundred to several thousand dollars, depending on the value of your home and the extent of coverage you desire.
Title insurance:
Title insurance
protects you and the lender against the risk that the person selling you the home doesn’t legally own it. This insurance typically costs from several hundred to a few thousand dollars, depending on your home’s purchase price. Happily, the premium you pay at close of escrow is the only title insurance premium you’ll ever have to pay
unless you subsequently decide to refinance your mortgage.
Oddly, there are places like Northern California where the seller (not the buyer) pays for the “main” title policy. This is purely a matter of “local custom.” Ask your agent what the custom is where you are buying.
Property taxes:
At the closing of your home purchase, you may have to reimburse the sellers for property taxes that they paid in advance. Here’s how it works. Suppose you close on your home purchase on October 15, and the sellers have already paid their property taxes through December 31. You have to reimburse the sellers for property taxes they paid from October 15 through the end of the year. The prorated property taxes you end up paying in your actual transaction are based on the home’s taxes and the date that escrow actually closes and cost from several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars. In some parts of the country, if you paid more than the prior owner for the property, you may also receive a supplemental property tax bill from your tax collector, after you close escrow, seeking payment for the incremental increase in the property taxes for your prorated period of ownership.
Attorney fees:
In some eastern states, lawyers are involved (unfortunately from some participants’ perspectives) in real estate purchases. In most states, however, lawyers aren’t needed for home purchases as long as the real estate agents use standard, fill-in-the-blank contracts. If you do hire an attorney, expect to pay at least several hundred dollars.
Property inspections:
As advocated in
Home Buying For Dummies
(Wiley)
,
you should always have a home professionally inspected before you buy it. Inspection fees usually cost at least several hundred dollars (larger homes cost more to inspect of course). Be sure to carefully review this report and ask for additional information or hire a specialized contractor to conduct further investigation for any noted item of concern. If you are able, accompany the inspector when he inspects the property.
Private mortgage insurance (PMI):
If you make a down payment of less than 20 percent of the purchase price of the home, mortgage lenders generally require that you take out private mortgage insurance that protects the lender in case you default on your mortgage. You may need to pay up to a year’s worth of premium for this coverage at closing, which can amount to as much as several hundred dollars. One terrific way to avoid this extra cost is to make a 20 percent down payment.
Prepaid loan interest: At closing, the lender charges interest on your mortgage to cover the interest that accrues from the date your loan is funded — generally one business day before the closing — up to the day of your first scheduled loan payment. How much interest you actually have to pay depends on the timing of your first loan payment.
If you’re strapped for cash at closing, try the following tricks to minimize the prepaid loan interest you owe at closing:
First, ask your lender which day of the month your payment will be due and schedule to close on the loan as few days in advance of that day as possible. (Payments are usually due on the first of the month, so closing on the last day of the month or a few days before is generally best.)
Or ask whether your lender is willing to adjust your monthly due date closer to the date you desire to close on your loan.
Also, never schedule a closing to occur on a Monday because the lender will generally have to put your mortgage funds into escrow the preceding Friday, causing you to pay interest for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. (Some lenders may be able to accommodate a Monday closing by same-day wiring the funds for an afternoon closing.)
Other fees:
Recording fees (to record the deed and mortgage), courier and express mailing fees, notary fees — you name it. These extra expenses usually total about $200 to $300.
Note:
Ask your mortgage lender for a complete listing of all fees and charges.
Managing maintenance costs
In addition to costing you a monthly mortgage payment, homes also need flooring, window treatments, painting, plumbing, electrical and roof repairs, and other types of maintenance over time. Of course, some homeowners defer maintenance and even put their houses on the market for sale with lots of deferred maintenance (which, of course, will be reflected in a reduced sales price that is often much greater than the cost to have made those simple repairs).
For budgeting purposes, we suggest that you allocate about 1 percent of the purchase price of your home each year for normal maintenance expenses. So, for example, if you spend $240,000 on a home, you should budget about $2,400 per year (or about $200 per month) for maintenance.
With some types of housing, such as condominiums or planned unit developments (PUD), you pay monthly dues into a common interest development (often referred to as a homeowners association), which takes care of the maintenance for the community. In that case, you’re responsible for maintaining only the interior of your unit. Check with the association to see how much the dues are currently running, anticipated future monthly or quarterly dues increases or special assessments, what services are included, and how they’ve changed over the years.
Financing home improvements and such
In addition to necessary maintenance and furnishings, also be aware of how much you may spend on nonessential home improvements, such as adding a deck, remodeling your kitchen, and so on. Budget for these nonessentials unless you’re the rare person who is a super saver, can easily accomplish your savings goals, and have lots of slack in your budget.
The amount you expect to spend on improvements is just an estimate. It depends on how finished a home you buy and your personal tastes and desires. Consider your previous spending behavior and the types of projects you expect to do as you examine potential homes for purchase.
Consider the Impact of a New House on Your Financial Future
As you collect your spending data, think about how your proposed home purchase will affect and change your spending habits and ability to save. For example, as a homeowner, if you live farther away from your job than you did when you rented, how much will your transportation expenses increase? If you currently don’t live in a common interest development (that is, a community with a homeowners association), you’ll quickly learn about dues and sometimes special assessments, which are rarely anticipated and included in your budget.
Table 1-2 can help you total all your current expenses and estimate future expected spending.
TABLE 1-2 Your Spending, Now and After Your Home Purchase
Item
Current Monthly Income Average ($)
Expected Monthly Income Average with Home Purchase ($)
Income
Gross salary
__________
__________
Bonuses/overtime
__________
__________
Interest/dividend
__________
__________
Miscellaneous
__________
__________
Total Income
__________
__________
Taxes
Social Security
__________
__________
Federal
__________
__________
State and local
__________
__________
Housing Expenses
Rent
__________
__________
Mortgage
__________
__________
Property taxes
__________
__________
Homeowners association dues
__________
__________
Gas/electric/oil
__________
__________
Homeowners/renter insurance
__________
__________
Water/sewer/garbage
__________
__________
Phone (landline and/or cellphone)
__________
__________
Cable TV/Internet
__________
__________
Furnishings/appliances
__________
__________
Improvements
__________
__________
Maintenance/repairs
__________
__________
Food and Eating
Groceries
__________
__________
Restaurants and takeout
__________
__________
Transportation
Fuel/gasoline
__________
__________
Maintenance/repairs
__________
__________
State registration fees
__________
__________
Tolls and parking
__________
__________
Bus/train/ subway fares
__________
__________
Appearance
Clothing
__________
__________
Footwear
__________
__________
Jewelry (watches, earrings)
__________
__________
Laundry/dry cleaning
__________
__________
Hair
__________
__________
Makeup
__________
__________
Other
__________
__________
Debt Repayments
Credit/charge cards
__________
__________
Home equity/installment loans
__________
__________
Vehicle loans
__________
__________
Educational loans
__________
__________
Other
__________
__________
Fun Stuff
Entertainment (movies, concerts)
__________
__________
Vacation and travel
__________
__________
Gifts
__________
__________
Hobbies
__________
__________
Pets
__________
__________
Health club or gym
__________
__________
Youth sports
__________
__________
Other
__________
__________
Advisors
Accountant
__________
__________
Attorney
__________
__________
Financial advisor
__________
__________
Healthcare
Physicians and hospitals
__________
__________
Prescriptions
__________
__________
Dental and vision care
__________
__________
Therapy/counseling
__________
__________
Insurance
Vehicle
__________
__________
Health
__________
__________
Life
__________
__________
Disability/long-term care
__________
__________
Educational Expenses
Courses
__________
__________
Books
__________
__________
Supplies
__________
__________
Kids
Child care
__________
__________
Diapers/formula
__________
__________
Toys
__________
__________
Child support
__________
__________
Other
Charitable donations
__________
__________
Alimony
__________
__________
_____________________
__________
__________
_____________________
__________
__________
_____________________
__________
__________
_____________________
__________
__________
_____________________
__________
__________
Total Spending
__________
__________
Amount Saved
__________
__________
(subtract from Total Income)
Acting upon your spending analysis
Tabulating your spending is only half the battle on the path to fiscal fitness and a financially successful home purchase. After all, many government entities know where they spend our tax dollars, but they still run up massive levels of debt! You must do something with the personal spending information you collect.
When most Americans examine their spending, especially if it’s the first time, they may be surprised and dismayed at the amount of their overall spending and how little they’re saving. How much is enough to save? The answer depends on your goals and how good your investing skills are. For most people to reach their financial goals, they must annually save at least 10 percent of their gross (pretax) income.
From Eric’s experience as a personal financial counselor and lecturer, he knows that most people don’t know how much they’re currently saving, and even more people don’t know how much they should be saving. You should know these amounts before you buy your first home or trade up to a more costly property.
If you’re like most people planning to buy a first home, you need to reduce your spending to accumulate enough money to pay for the down payment and closing costs and create enough slack in your budget to afford the extra costs of homeownership. Trade-up buyers may have some of the same issues as well. Where you decide to make cuts in your budget is a matter of personal preference. Here are some proven ways to cut your spending now and in the future:
Purge consumer debt.
Debt on credit cards, vehicle loans, and the like is detrimental to your long-term financial health. Borrowing through consumer loans encourages you to live beyond your means, and the interest rates on consumer debt are high
and not tax deductible.
If you have accessible savings to pay down your consumer debts, do so as long as you have access to sufficient emergency money from family or other avenues.
Trim nonessential spending.
Although everyone needs food, shelter, clothing, and healthcare, most Americans spend a great deal of additional money on luxuries and nonessentials. Even some of what people spend on the “necessity” categories is partly for luxury.
Purchase products and services that offer value.
High quality doesn’t have to cost more. In fact, higher priced products and services are sometimes inferior to lower cost alternatives. With so many products available online these days, and local bricks-and-mortar stores willing to price match, a little research can go a long way to finding real savings.
Buy in bulk.
Most items are cheaper per unit when you buy them in larger sizes or volumes. Superstores such as Costco, BJ’s Wholesale Club, Sam’s Club, Target, and Walmart offer family sizes and competitive pricing.
Establishing financial goals
Most people find it enlightening to see how much they need to save to accomplish particular goals. For example, wanting to retire while you still have good health is a common goal. And the good news is that you can take advantage of tax incentives while you save toward retirement.
Money that you contribute to an employer-based retirement plan — for example, a 401(k) — or to a self-employed plan — for example, a SEP-IRA — is typically tax deductible at both the federal and state levels. Also, after you contribute money into a retirement account, the gains on that money compound over time without taxation.
If you’re accumulating down-payment money for the purchase of a home, putting that money into a retirement account is generally a bad idea. When you withdraw money prematurely from a retirement account, you owe not only current income taxes but also hefty penalties — 10 percent of the amount withdrawn for the IRS plus whatever penalty your state collects.
If you’re trying to save for a real estate purchase and save toward retirement and reduce your taxes, you have a dilemma — assuming that, like most people, you have limited funds with which to work. The dilemma is that you can save outside of retirement accounts and have access to your down-payment money but pay much more in taxes. Or you can fund your retirement accounts and gain tax benefits, but lack access to the money for your home purchase.
You have two ways to skirt this dilemma:
Borrow against your employer’s retirement plan.
Some employers’ retirement plans, especially those in larger companies, allow borrowing against retirement savings plan balances. Some companies offer first-time homebuyers a little financial assistance, so make sure you ask. Because you are borrowing your own money, the monthly payment (including interest) all goes back to your account. Also, monthly payments back to your retirement account do not count against your debt ratios.
Implement a first-time home-buyer IRA withdrawal.
If you have an Individual Retirement Account (either a standard IRA or a newer Roth IRA), you’re allowed to withdraw up to $10,000 (lifetime maximum) per individual IRA account (so a married couple can access $20,000) toward a home purchase as long as you haven’t owned a home for the past two years. Tapping into a Roth IRA is a better deal because the withdrawal is free from income tax as long as the Roth account is at least five years old. Although a standard IRA has no such time restriction, withdrawals are taxed as income, so you’ll net only the after-tax amount of the withdrawal toward your down payment.
Because most people have limited discretionary dollars, you must decide what your priorities are. Saving for retirement and reducing your taxes are important goals; but when you’re trying to save to purchase a home, some or most of your savings needs to be outside a tax-sheltered retirement account. Putting your retirement savings on the back burner for a short time to build up your down-payment cushion is fine. However, be sure to purchase a home that offers enough slack in your budget to fund your retirement accounts after the purchase.
Making down-payment decisions
Most people borrow money for a simple reason: They want to buy something they can’t afford to pay for in a lump sum. How many 18-year-olds and their parents have the extra cash to pay for the full cost of a college education? Or prospective homebuyers to pay for the full purchase price of a home? So people borrow.
When used properly, debt can help you accomplish your financial goals and make you more money in the long run. But if your financial situation allows you to make a larger than necessary down payment, consider how much debt you need or want. With most lenders, as we discuss in Chapter 5, you’ll get access to the best rates on mortgage loans by making a down payment of at least 20 percent. Whether or not making a larger down payment makes sense for you depends on a number of factors, such as your other options and goals.
The potential rate of return that you expect or hope to earn on investments is a critical factor when you decide whether to make a larger down payment or make other investments. Psychologically, however, some people feel uncomfortable making a larger down payment because it diminishes their savings and investments.
You probably don’t want to make a larger down payment if it depletes your emergency financial cushion. But don’t be tripped up by the misconception that somehow you’ll be harmed more by a real estate market crash if you pay down your mortgage. Your home is worth what it’s worth — its value has nothing to do with the size of your mortgage.
Financially, what matters in deciding to make a larger down payment is the rate of interest you’re paying on your mortgage versus the rate of return your investments are generating. Suppose that you get a fixed-rate mortgage at 6 percent. To come out financially ahead making investments instead of making a larger down payment, your investments need to produce an average annual rate of return, before taxes, of about 6 percent.
Although it’s true that mortgage interest is usually tax deductible, don’t forget that you must also pay taxes on investments held outside of retirement accounts. You could purchase tax-free investments, such as municipal bonds, but over the long haul, you probably won’t be able to earn a high enough rate of return on such bonds versus the cost of the mortgage. Other types of fixed-income investments, such as bank savings accounts, CDs, and other bonds, are also highly unlikely to pay a high enough return.
To have a reasonable chance of earning more on your investments than it’s costing you to borrow on a mortgage, you must be willing to invest in more growth-oriented, volatile investments such as stocks and rental/investment real estate. Over the past two centuries, stocks and real estate have produced annual average rates of return of about 9 percent. On the other hand, there are no guarantees that you’ll earn these returns in the future. Growth-type investments can easily drop 20 percent or more in value over short time periods (such as one to three years).
