Popular Amphibians E-Book

Philippe de Vosjoli

• Herausgeber: CompanionHouse Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 137

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2004

Beschreibung

Frogs, toads, salamanders, and newts are among pet owner's favorite amphibians, and this colorful guide proves the perfect introduction to these fascinating animals. Author Philippe de Vosjoli provides guidelines for keeping the most popular species of amphibians, highlighting Oriental fire-bellied toads, leopard frots, dwarf clawed frogs, fire-bellied newts, and tiger salamanders. For each he provides insight into commonly kept species, systematics, distribution and origins, size, longevity, sexing, housing, feeding, behavior, breeding, and more. This Advanced Vivarium Systems title includes information about selecting a healthy example, quarantine and acclimation considerations, housing needs, water and feeding, as well as solid advice about keeping the amphibian healthy. A separate chapter on diseases and disorders provides a complete primer on the health needs and veterinary care of these rewarding amphibians.

Leseprobe

Karla Austin, business operations manager

Jarad Krywicki, editor

Erin Kuechenmeister, production editor

Nick Clemente, special consultant

Designed by Michael Vincent Capozzi

All photos by Philippe de Vosjoli

Rachel Rice, indexer

Cover photography by Mark Kostich

Copyright ©2004 by Advanced Vivarium Systems, Inc.™

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopy, recording or any information and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review.

LCCN: 96-183295

ISBN: 1-882770-60-9

eISBN: 978-1-620080-45-0

An Imprint of I-5 Press™

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CONTENTS

Acknowledgments

Introduction

  1: Selection

  2: Quarantine and Acclimation

  3: Housing

  4: Water

  5: Feeding

  6: Guidelines for Keeping Popular Species of Toads and Frogs

  7: Guidelines for Keeping Popular Species of Newts and Salamanders

  8: Diseases and Disorders

  9: Mixing Species

10: Amphibian Vivaria in the Work Place

11: Amphibian Vivaria as Educational Tools

Recommended Reading

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Special thanks go to the following friends for their support, advice, and guidance in the course of assembling the material for this book: Ed and Liddy Kammer of West Coast Reptiles provided animals, direction, information about imports, and interesting late-night discussions on the future of herpetoculture. Chris Estep at Reptile Haven supported the project by offering supplies along with good company, humor, sarcasm, and valuable comments. Ray Busby and David Masur of International Reptile Breeders Association (IRBA) deserve special recognition for supporting my obsession with naturalistic vivaria. Through their San Diego IRBA Vivarium show held in October, they were the first to provide a recognized outlet for vivarium design artists and set a trend that is now spreading nationwide. Credit for inspiration for the chapter about the use of vivaria in education goes to Dan McCarron, a teacher with a vision. Last but not least, I am indebted to Susan Donoghue, V.M.D., for ongoing cutting-edge dialogue and her review of the manuscript.

INTRODUCTION

Although I’ve kept amphibians for decades, I still can’t help watching common species in pet shops and herp (amphibians and reptiles) shows. These fascinating animals come in a variety of sizes, shapes, colors, and personalities, but all seem designed to enchant their owners. Nocturnal species appeal to night owls, while brightly colored, active species make superb daily attractions in naturalistic vivaria (enclosures for live animals). Amphibians excel as children’s pets, centerpieces in planted vivaria, research subjects for amateur biologists, and a lifelong passion for serious herpetoculturists.

For all their beauty and charm, amphibians are relatively fragile animals that require specific temperatures, foods, and enclosures. The species discussed in this book require water or high humidity to thrive, and keepers must pay special attention to the quality of their water. Keeping a pet amphibian healthy and happy requires knowledge about its needs. In this book, I give step-by-step details about amphibian care. You’ll learn how best to keep your new pet and how to help it thrive for years to come.

In recent years, the popularity of frogs and salamanders as pets has surged. To keep up with the demand, several species are collected from the wild by the thousands and are now standard fare in pet stores. Unfortunately, these mass-collected species tend to be inexpensive and sold as disposable living toys, typically marketed to appeal to children rather than adults. Because these amphibians are most often marketed to children, the habitats recommended for keeping them are sadly unsophisticated. Consumers often see these amazing creatures in austere and Spartan environments—small, unlit, plastic terrariums without plants or filters. These special and beautiful creatures end up debased by the setting in which they appear. This inhumane approach creates far-ranging negative consequences, and it performs a great disservice to the animals (which live impoverished lives and die prematurely) and to the children and adults who purchase them.

In contrast, amphibians kept in attractive, enriched environments display a greater range of behaviors and far longer life spans, providing years of beautiful and captivating activities. These biologically complex (but easy to make) naturalistic vivaria encourage study, creativity, research, and an evolving awareness of the natural world.

Taking the above ideas into consideration, this book plans to present the correct way to keep frogs, newts, and salamanders, with an emphasis on the step-by-step design of decorative and functional vivaria. To the surprise of many, these setups are relatively easy to maintain and comparatively inexpensive, costing about the same as basic aquarium systems for tropical fish. Indeed, many of the species covered in this book can be successfully kept with fish.

This book also aims to raise consciousness and promote education. To address these issues, I included chapters about the benefits of vivaria in the work place and the use of amphibians in naturalistic vivaria as a valuable tool for teaching biology.

As long as I’ve kept amphibians and as much as I love to watch the frogs and salamanders in pet shops, I’m also aware of the important issues facing wild populations of these creatures. Unmonitored and unmanaged exploitation of amphibians is not acceptable. If we are to continue to be able to keep frogs and salamanders in captivity, we must give attention to conservation, sustainable use, management, and commercial herpetoculture of these species.

CHAPTER 1

SELECTION

Before Buying Frogs and Newts

Frogs and newts are beautiful, fascinating creatures that can enrich your life. However, they must be researched and examined before purchase, not purchased on a whim. Many require specific conditions, such as cool temperatures and live foods, and the design of their setups requires thought and planning. As a rule, frogs and newts are relatively inexpensive, although their setups, if done right, end up costing between sixty and one hundred dollars.

The Oriental fire-bellied toad (Bombina orientalis) is one of the gems of the frog world. Fortunately, it is readily available and easy to keep and breed.

At the outset, ask yourself whether a frog or newt is the right pet for you. What is it that you expect from owning a frog or newt? They are not particularly responsive personal pets and they can’t be handled, so any pleasure you derive from them will be from observation. Only close scrutiny reveals the special beauty of these creatures, their unusual forms, their golden eyes, their porcelain skin, the details of their skin texture and pattern, and their variety of colors—from subtle to vivid hues. Interesting patterns and behaviors add to the charm of these little beings, which fascinate their owners precisely because they are so alien. Once you realize that observing these animals provides enjoyment, the importance of designing an attractive natural-looking display—a living work of art—becomes obvious.

Selecting Species

The best way to select a species is to refer to books with photographs or, better yet, go to a store and observe live animals. Once you have found a species that appeals to you, take the time to read about its natural history, captive care, and requirements for designing a proper setup, which you’ll find in this book.

Southeast Asian green-back frogs (Rana erythraea) are very beautiful ranids, not as rapacious as leopard frogs, and generally very amenable to keeping in vivaria.

Beware of Heat!

Many temperate amphibian species, particularly salamanders, fare well during cool months but have high mortality rates on hot summer days. Various salamanders and frogs, such as fire-bellied newts and Oriental fire-bellied toads, end up dying when temperatures rise above 80° Fahrenheit (F) and head toward 85° F. Many deaths occur during summer heat waves. If you live in a warm area, select amphibians more adapted to warm temperatures, which excludes the great majority of salamanders.

Next, plan your vivarium, including the size, type, and supplies needed to assemble it. Only after having completed the vivarium should you purchase or collect the species you intend to keep. If you plan to collect a species in the wild, make sure you follow the conservation guidelines and laws in your area. Wild-caught specimens are, in general, far less hardy than captive-bred animals.

Another way to decide what species to keep is to first decide on the type of display you want. Many hobbyists are more interested in creating a type of display, either an aquarium or a shoreline vivarium, with frogs and newts as one of the aesthetic components of the setup. To help in your selection, refer to the following categories that match setups and amphibians. The groupings do not imply compatibility of species.

Amphibians suitable for aquaria and deep island aquaria (more than half-filled):

clawed frog

dwarf clawed frog

axolotl

certain newts

tadpoles

Amphibians suitable for island aquaria (half-filled):

dwarf clawed frog

floating frog

fire-bellied toad

newts

Species suitable for shoreline vivaria:

floating frog

fire-bellied toad

leopard frog

newts

salamanders

The type of food required by frogs, newts, or other salamanders might affect your species selection. Most frogs and salamanders, with the exception of some aquatic species, require live, moving prey, which usually means a weekly visit to the pet store to buy crickets, black worms, or other live foods. Fire-bellied toads, floating frogs, leopard frogs, and salamanders need live foods two to three times a week. If routine purchase of live food is a problem, consider aquatic species that eat frozen foods or commercial diets. These include dwarf underwater frogs, clawed frogs, axolotls, and newts.

Newts, such as this Chinese paddle-tailed newt (Pachytriton labiatum), are often presented in the worst possible manner in pet stores. Kept the right way they easily rival tropical fish as aquarium displays.

CHAPTER 2

QUARANTINE AND ACCLIMATION

Regrettably, most species covered in this book are collected from the wild, transported, held in overcrowded conditions, and starved for varying periods of time before landing in the local pet store. These conditions make it highly probable that the animals you buy will be thin, stressed, and hosts to parasites or bacterial and viral pathogens.

Although your new frog or newt might appear healthy, it might be in a disease-incubation stage, soon to be overcome by pathogens. Indeed, newly imported amphibians often initially seem in good health only to have a sudden crash or decline within the first week or two after purchase (see “Crash Syndrome” in Diseases and Disorders).

Because of the risk of spreading disease, experienced keepers always quarantine new animals (keeping them separate until they have proven healthy) before introducing them into a setup with established animals. Many established animals have been wiped out because of the introduction of new animals without quarantine. However, if the animals you purchase come from the same tank and are the only ones you plan to keep, quarantine is not necessary.

During quarantine, which should be a minimum of thirty days, monitor the health of your animals. Keep track of their attitude, alertness, and feeding activity, the condition of their feces, their ability to gain and maintain weight, and their behavior. Inactivity, hyperactivity, spastic behaviors, failure to feed, watery feces, weight loss, discolored skin patches, and cloudy eyes are all signs of possible disease.

Most of the amphibians covered in this book can be quarantined in 10-gallon tanks with screen tops. In general, aquatic species fare well in bare tanks with a sponge filter, a few potted aquatic plants, and an underwater shelter. For semiaquatic species, such as newts or floating frogs, use partially filled tanks with islands made of inverted flower pots with a piece of cork and strands of elodea (Egeria densa) as temporary housing. Keep land dwellers such as tiger salamanders on moistened green moss and provide them with a shelter and a shallow water container. Read the chapter about housing for further details.

In this quarantine setup for most newts, a Foam Home polyurethane foam background provides surface areas and hollows that make the newts feel more secure. A section of cork was wedged between the foam and front glass to allow access to land.

Inexpensive utility sinks are invaluable for quarantining groups of newts or frogs. A screen cover is required for frogs and recommended with newts and salamanders to prevent escape.

A quarantine setup for semiaquatic frogs should have a low level of water, and cork bark or foam platforms. Place white paper under the tank to monitor the state of the feces. If a large foam platform and cork bark shelters are used, this system will also work well for various salamanders. Make sure you have a secure lid.

The substrate of this simple setup for quarantine of terrestrial and semiaquatic salamanders is a gravel bed covered with moist green moss. Cork bark shelters are placed on the moss and a shallow and easily accessible water container is sunk into the gravel. This kind of setup can also be used with semiterrestrial and terrestrial frogs, such as leopard frogs, rice paddy frogs, and even fire-bellied toads. The moss must be kept moist.

Non-release Practices

Never release unwanted or sick animals into the wild. It is illegal. Moreover, most released amphibians do not survive. In addition, there is a chance that you could threaten native wildlife by exposing them to foreign pathogens. Unwanted pets should always be sold or given to pet businesses, other hobbyists, or animal shelters—never released. Unwanted sick amphibians are best euthanized.

CHAPTER 3

HOUSING

Enclosures

The best enclosures for keeping amphibians are all-glass tanks with sliding screen tops or aquaria with screen tops. Open-top aquaria work for some aquatic species, such as dwarf underwater frogs and axolotls, as long as the water level remains at least a couple of inches below the top of the tank. Floating frogs can be housed safely with dwarf clawed frogs in half-filled tanks.

The plastic terrariums commonly recommended for keeping frogs and newts can be used as temporary housing and for quarantining smaller amphibians, but they are unsuitable as display enclosures. Plastic terrariums become easily scratched and unsanitary, and they have no visual appeal. When keeping frogs and newts, the saying “glass has class”holds true.

This display by Reptile Haven (Oceanside, CA) won first prize in the aquatic division at the 2000 IRBA Vivarium show in San Diego. It housed several paddle-tailed newts. The background was a polyurethane Foam Home unit. In the center, a weighted cork round was planted with cryptocorynes. Java fern and anubias were anchored to the foam background. A powerhead in the foam unit acted as a filter and current generator.

If you have limited space, such as a desktop, start with a tank as small as 2 gallons for tiny species such as dwarf clawed frogs, floating frogs, or Oriental fire-bellied newts. For the other species covered in this book, you’ll need at least a 10-gallon tank, though larger tanks—20 gallons or more—are preferred. In larger tanks, the quality of water and substrate (bottom material) remains more stable and requires less maintenance. The animals also utilize the extra space.

The importance of screen tops for most amphibians cannot be emphasized enough. Thousands of captive frogs and newts end up as mummified dust balls because their owners failed to provide an aquarium cover. Most newts, salamanders, toads, and frogs can escape an uncovered tank—and once they do, they will not survive.

Shallow Shoreline Vivarium