The Ball Python Manual E-Book

Philippe de Vosjoli

• Herausgeber: CompanionHouse Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 88

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2004

Beschreibung

Written by a team of internationally respected herpetologists led by Philippe de Vosjoli, The Ball Python Manual is an authoritative introduction to this popular snake. The ball python is admired around the world for its distinctly African appearance and its relative medium size and tameability. This colorful manual offers up-to-date and reliable information on selection, acclimating, handling, housing and maintaining ball pythons, all of which will be extremely valuable to newcomers to this remarkable python. Dr. Roger Klingenberg's chapter on health care is indispensable for all snake keepers with excellent advice for troubleshooting health issues for each of the snake's anatomical regions. The breeding chapter by David and Tracy Barker discusses sexing, sexual maturity, and all aspects of captive reproduction and hatching. The volume concludes with resources and a complete index.

Leseprobe

June Kikuchi, Editorial Director

Jarelle S. Stein, Editor

Karen Julian, Publishing Coordinator

Tracy Burns, Jessica Jaensch, Production Coordinators

Indexed by Melody Englund

Front cover photo by David Northcott; back cover photo courtesy of www.grazianireptiles.com.

The additional photographs in this book are by David Barker, pp. 4, 6–8, 10–12, 22, 24 (bottom), 34, 35, 36 (bottom), 50, 59, 63, 65, 67, 69, 70, 79 (bottom); Bill Love, pp. 9, 25, 64; John Patton, p. 14; Philippe de Vosjoli, pp. 16, 20, 21, 24 (top), 66; Sandmar Enterprises, p. 17; Neodesha Plastics, p. 18; David Northcott, p. 32; www.grazianireptiles.com, 40–43, 45–9, 51–54, 56, 57; www.alanboschreptiles.com, p. 36 (top); Isabelle Francais, p. 60; Chris Wood, p. 61; Roger Klingenberg, pp. 72–75,79 (top).

Copyright © 1992,1998,2003 by Advanced Vivarium Systems®

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of Advanced Vivarium Systems®, except for the inclusion of brief quotations in an acknowledged review.

LCCN: 96-183295ISBN-10:1-882770-72-2ISBN-13: 978-1-882770-72-4eISBN-13: 978-1-937049-69-0

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CONTENTS

Introduction

1. General Information

2. Selection

3. Quarantine and Acclimation

4. Housing and Maintenance

5. Feeding and Handling

6. Ball Python Morphs and Variations

7. Captive Reproduction

8. Diseases and Disorders

Resources

About the Authors

INTRODUCTION

The ball python is one of the most popular and widely sold snakes in the pet trade. In 1991, more than sixty-five thousand ball pythons were imported by the United States alone, and thousands more were imported by European countries, Canada, and Japan. In the past, gravid females were exported with the rest, resulting in the loss of thousands of eggs and many unhealthy females. However, during the past decade, exporters established programs for the captive hatching of ball python eggs, and as a result, more imported hatchlings are available, and more ball pythons are exported by the countries of origin. The ball python is the last inexpensive python available in the pet trade, and, consequently, one of the most appealing to pet store owners and first-time snake buyers.

The snakes also appeal to hobbyists for many other reasons. In addition to their incredibly diverse and attractive colors and patterns, they do not grow too large to maintain or become large enough to threaten humans or household pets. During handling, they are reluctant to bite, and they readily become tame.

A variant of “jungle” ball python.

On the other hand, ball pythons are highly exploited, not only by the pet trade but also in their countries of origin, where they are eaten and their skin is used as a source of leather. Unfortunately, their reproductive rate is much lower than that of some of the larger pythons. Their egg clutches tend to be small, and they tend to breed every two to three years in the wild, rather than every year. If the current level of capture and sale is to continue, wild populations require careful management, including captive incubation of eggs laid by collected females and restocking programs. To understand their plight from a herpetocultural perspective, simply consider that a ball python is likely to produce fewer offspring during a two-year period than a green tree python (Morelia viridis), a blood python (Python curtus), or a jungle carpet python (Morelia spilota variegata), all of which are sold at much higher prices.

Although ball pythons are among the most readily available and least expensive larger snakes sold, they are also some of the most challenging. Adults and subadults tend to harbor parasites and commonly arrive with various diseases, including stomatitis (mouth rot), respiratory disorders, and protozoan and bacterial infections. Most of these medical problems usually go unnoticed and unattended by pet store personnel and first-time buyers. In addition, many adult ball pythons are reluctant to feed in captivity.

The goal of this book is to provide useful, up-to-date information on the husbandry and propagation of this often misunderstood species, including tips on how to overcome problems related to feeding.

CHAPTER 1

GENERAL INFORMATION

What’s in a Name?

The scientific name of the ball python is Python regius, which translates to “royal python,” the name often used for the species in Europe. The popular name ball python, although not as accurate, refers to the propensity of the species to coil into a tight ball when threatened.

Distribution and Imports

The ball python is found in the grasslands of the Sudanese subprovince (west of the Nile); in southern Sudan, in the Bahrel Ghazal River and Nubia Mountains region (southern Kordofan); in West Africa from Senegal to Sierra Leone; and in the Ivory Cost and parts of Central Africa. Virtually all ball pythons sold in the reptile trade are imported from Togo and Ghana.

A “high yellow” albino ball python. The incredible breeding potential of ball pythons has secured them a lasting place in herpetoculture.

This ball python is representative of wild morphs imported from Ghana and Togo.

Habitat

Ball pythons are primarily terrestrial snakes that inhabit open forests or savanna grasslands with low tree density and scattered rock outcroppings. They are not found in closed forests but are known to colonize heavily cleared and farmed grasslands. Reportedly, trappers have set fire to grasslands as a collection method.

Size

Hatchlings range from 10-inch runts to large, 17-inch specimens. Adults typically range from 3 to 5 feet in length, though there are reports of wild individuals reaching more than 6 feet long.

Growth Rate

Ball pythons that are captive-raised from hatchlings grow to more than 3 feet in length within three years. With an optimal feeding and maintenance regimen, some ball pythons reach sexual maturity within two-and-a-half to three-and-a-half years.

Longevity

The natural life span of ball pythons ranks among the highest for snake species. It is reasonable to expect a captive-raised specimen to live twenty to thirty years. The longest-lived ball python on record lived forty-seven years. Renowned herpetologist Roger Conant purchased the specimen as a young adult male. The snake resided in the Philadelphia Zoo from April 26, 1945, to October 7, 1992.

CHAPTER 2

SELECTION

An imported adult ball python is not a good beginner’s snake. Captive-hatched ball pythons, usually available in spring and summer, are a good choice for interested herpetoculturists (those who study and keep reptiles and amphibians). If purchasing your first snake, it is wiser to choose one of the many captive-bred colubrids (nonvenomous snakes such as corn snakes or kingsnakes) or another type of boa or python. The spotted python (Antaresia maculosa), now captive-bred in the United States, is another good choice for beginners.

Imported adult ball pythons are not a good choice for beginners because they tend to have difficulty acclimating to their new surroundings. Most beginning hobbyists become discouraged during the task of persuading imported adult ball pythons to feed, which can be an extremely tricky task. Imported adults also commonly harbor parasites, and many owners become discouraged during the course of parasite treatment or when treating associated problems, such as respiratory disorders, stomatitis, and enteric diseases (all too common in imported animals).

Due to their intensive care requirements, imported adult ball pythons do not make suitable pets for beginners.

When buying a ball python, the best choice is a captiveborn hatchling.

Success Begins with Selection

Success with ball pythons depends upon, to a significant degree, the initial selection of a potentially healthy animal. Because many diseases and disorders cannot be determined by visual or tactile inspection, it is not possible to ascertain the health of an animal without veterinary assistance.

Selecting a Healthy Python

Captive-hatched juveniles are the best choice for most interested hobbyists, and imported juveniles are a close second. Select a specimen that has a rounded body and does not demonstrate pronounced backbone or rib definition. Check to be sure that the skin is relatively clear and free from superficial injuries.

Once you have found a python that interests you, ask to hold it. A healthy ball python should give a distinct impression of strength and good muscle tone. Newly imported ball pythons in good health usually have a strong tendency to adopt the tight defensive ball posture. Avoid animals that seem to be limp or have poor muscle tone. These are always clear indicators of poor health.

 Next, perform the following steps to determine the animal’s health:

1. With one hand, hold the snake behind its head while supporting its body on a table or using your arm to hold it against your body. With the other hand, gently pull the skin underneath the lower jaw to open the mouth of the animal. Look for the presence of bubbly mucus, which is a sign of respiratory infection. Another technique is to gently press your thumb against the throat area while the snake’s mouth is closed. If it has a respiratory infection, mucus will often emerge from the sides of the mouth or through the nostrils.

2. While you have the animal’s mouth open, look for signs of stomatitis. When it is present, areas of the gums will be covered with caseous (cheesy-looking) matter. In some cases, red, raw, and injured areas will be evident. Avoid any animals with these symptoms.

3. While you have the animal in hand, make sure its eyes are clear. If the snake is in shed, both eyes should demonstrate equal levels of opacity (clouding).

4. Check the body for lumps. Check also for depressed areas along the backbone and for collapsed areas along the sides of the body—a sign of broken ribs. Avoid snakes with any of these symptoms.

5. Examine the belly area to be sure it is free of signs of infection, including raised ventral scales, stained scales, or damaged scales.

6. Examine the vent (opening to the cloaca). The anal scale should lie flat against the body and should be free of any caked or crusty matter. Avoid snakes that do not meet these requirements.

A close-up of the head of a healthy ball python.

A close-up of the head of a healthy ball python.