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Everybody loves stories and Scotland is full of them. Every town, village, glen, loch, nook and cranny has a tale to tell and it's these stories that bring those places to life. Scotland's Stories is the key to unlocking those legends and seeing these incredible places in a new light. Loch Garve looks very different when you know there's a Kelpie lurking somewhere in its depths. There's a new appreciation for the iconic Eilean Donan Castle after discovering the man who built it spoke with birds. An empty moor or wooded gorge is easily brought to life with the clashing sounds of a battle fought long ago. Based on the popular travel blog from storyteller Graeme and Molly the Labrador, these tales will appeal to all who love history, folklore and Scotland.
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First published 2023
The History Press
97 St George’s Place, Cheltenham,
Gloucestershire, GL50 3QB
www.thehistorypress.co.uk
© Graeme Johncock, 2023
The right of Graeme Johncock to be identified as the Author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without the permission in writing from the Publishers.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN 978 1 8039 9267 9
Typesetting and origination by The History Press.
Printed and bound in Great Britain by TJ Books Limited, Padstow, Cornwall.
eBook converted by Geethik Technologies
Foreword
Introduction
Aberdeenshire
Angus & Dundee
Argyll
Ayrshire & Arran
Borders
Caithness
Dumfries & Galloway
East Lothian
Easter Ross
Edinburgh & Midlothian
Fife & Kinross
Glasgow & Lanarkshire
Inner Hebrides
Inverness-shire and Cairngorms
Lochaber
Moray
Orkney
Outer Hebrides
Perthshire
Shetland
Stirling, Clackmannan & Loch Lomond
Sutherland
West Lothian
Wester Ross
Where Do I Find My Stories?
To the ever-patient Emma and the ever-youthful Molly.I doubt I would have written this were it not for both of you.
Scotland is rich in stories. Under every rock and in every stream lie tales of fact, fiction or something in between. Trees whisper stories of Celts and Picts, while the seas roar with Viking lore. Clansmen passed them down. Victorians romanticised them. And now, Graeme shares them with the world.
The very land whets our imaginations; littered with dark, expansive forests, towering ruins and solitary standing stones, it is hardly surprising that there is a story in all that we see. Our stories bring us together around the fire, and they let us reach out our hands to the past.
From fairies in their green hills to real-life stories of clansmen and war heroes, Graeme has left no stone unturned in capturing Scotland’s vibrant history and folklore. Having worked with Graeme since our early days as a charity, we have had plenty of opportunities to discuss the allure of these tales and their relevance today. At Folklore Scotland we have always been fascinated with the real-life places that lie behind these stories – there is something uncanny and magical about the boundary where the intangible meets the tangible and stories spring to life.
As you explore Scotland, listen for the ancient folk, embrace a wanderer’s lust, and let Graeme be your guide through Scotland’s stories.
Rebecca and David WhiteCo-Founders of Folklore Scotland
Everybody loves a good story – young and old alike.
The medium may have changed over the generations, with most people now watching TV shows instead of sitting around a fire, but the essence is the same. Stories can get your heart pumping a little bit faster, make the hair on the back of your neck stand up or even bring you to tears.
Most importantly, stories bring places to life. They can transform a pile of stones into the scene of a daring escape or a dark cave into the lair of a supernatural creature.
That’s what makes Scotland’s stories so incredible. This small country is absolutely packed full of history, myths and legends, with very few of them set in a land far far away. Most are tied to a specific castle, glen, loch or rock that is still recognisable today.
This book is your guide to those places, so you can stand in the same spot where something incredible once happened and imagine it playing out before your eyes. There are stories of real-life heroes, accounts of brutal battles, legends of folklore and plenty of ghostly goings-on.
Some of Scotland’s stories are world-famous like the legendary Loch Ness Monster. Others are lesser-known, local tales of mysterious curses, supernatural creatures and incredible bravery. All of them deserve to be told and every place deserves to be seen.
From the unique folklore of the Northern Isles to Borders Ballads, from the castles of Aberdeenshire to the clans of the west coast, Scotland has an incredible variety of stories to enjoy.
Wherever or whenever you’re planning to visit, or if reading is your way of travelling virtually, I hope you find that this book and these stories help to make Scotland even more enjoyable.
The iconic shape of Bennachie makes it one of Aberdeenshire’s most iconic hills. It’s nowhere near the highest mountain in Scotland, but there may be more to this landmark than meets the eye.
It was once home to a fearsome giant called Jock O’ Bennachie, as ancient as he was enormous. Jock wasn’t alone in the Aberdeenshire hills: his biggest rival, also named Jock, lived nearby at the Tap O’ Noth.
These two giants hated each other and, to make things worse, were competing for the attention of a beautiful giantess called Lady Anne. Unfortunately for Jock O’ Bennachie, Anne had taken a shine to his rival and wasn’t very subtle about it. One day, poor Jock gazed across to Tap O’ Noth and spotted the giant couple canoodling in view of all Aberdeenshire.
Enraged, he picked up a boulder and launched it at them. The other Jock saw it coming a mile away and booted it right back, knocking a chunk out the top of Bennachie that can still be seen today. Boulders were flying back and forward, but Lady Anne wasn’t going to have them destroying half of Aberdeenshire on her behalf.
She pushed in front of Jock O’ Noth, pleading for him to stop, when a boulder hit her square on, crushing her to death. Jock O’ Bennachie was even more devastated now, and to make matters worse, he was terrified his rival would come looking for revenge. He fled down from his hilltop, hiding out of shame and expecting to meet his end at any moment.
That night, Jock suddenly awoke with an uneasy sense that somebody else was moving in the darkness. The shape of a giant face loomed in front of him as a familiar, soft voice whispered his name. In the faint moonlight, he could see it was the beautiful Lady Anne!
He was overjoyed, his guilt was gone and the pair embraced. Maybe it had all just been a horrible nightmare!
However, something wasn’t right. Jock couldn’t hear the wind blowing or animals scurrying any more. As he looked around in confusion, Lady Anne had transformed into an old cackling fairy woman, pulling an enormous door closed and shrouding Jock in darkness.
‘You did kill that poor giantess and now you’re going to pay for your crime.’ And with a last laugh, she sealed Jock deep beneath Bennachie. The words of her curse were passed around Aberdeenshire. Jock would be trapped in the darkness until a one-eyed only son found the keys to that doorway, hidden under a juniper tree.
As far as I know, he’s still in there.
Fyvie Castle is one of the grandest homes in Aberdeenshire, large and lavish but also cursed. Legendary prophet Thomas the Rhymer visited soon after the castle was built in the thirteenth century, but became furious when the gates were slammed in his face. He declared that the fate of the castle would be tied to three stones that had been stolen from a nearby church.
The grand Fyvie Castle – cursed by Thomas the Rhymer and haunted by Lilias Drummond.
One was in the highest tower, one in the lady’s bower and one below the water gate. Until all three were brought back together, the owner of Fyvie Castle would have a difficult succession and all who lived there would suffer.
Only one of the stones has ever been found, now on display inside and said to occasionally become damp, weeping at being apart from the others. The curse has held true and has probably contributed to the number of spirits haunting Fyvie’s halls.
Known as the head ghost, the Green Lady was Lilias Drummond when alive and married to the cruel Alexander Seton. He cared about nothing other than producing an heir, so after several daughters but no sons, he lost patience, placing the blame on his wife.
Alexander locked Lilias away inside Fyvie, where she sadly died and her cruel husband wasted no time in replacing her. On his wedding night, instead of the happy couple consummating their marriage, they were kept awake by a strange scratching and wailing from outside the walls.
In the morning, an exhausted Alexander looked through the window to find something terrifying on the ledge outside.
The name D. Lilias Drummond was found etched into the stone, far too high for any human to have reached. It’s still there for Fyvie’s visitors to see and so is Dame Lilias, her presence given away by the faint scent of rose petal perfume.
Guarding a passage through the Cairngorms, the vast ruin of Kildrummy Castle still lives up to its title as the Noblest of Northern Castles. Built in the thirteenth century, the soaring towers and enormous walls made this one of Scotland’s most impressive fortresses.
That’s why Robert the Bruce sent his wife, sisters and daughter here for protection in 1306. Defeated in battle and now on the run, the King ordered his brother Neil to guard his family at Kildrummy, deep in the heart of Scotland.
Unfortunately, it didn’t take long for Edward, the Prince of Wales to discover where the King’s family were hiding and set out to capture some crucial hostages. He would have to take Kildrummy Castle first though, and under the care of Neil Bruce that was no easy task.
As the days passed, the numbers outside the castle grew bigger and the defenders’ odds of survival grew smaller. While they still had the chance, the women slipped out of the castle to flee further north, although their efforts only led to English prisons. Neil remained behind, holding Kildrummy for six weeks until the castle finally fell. Not by brute force or even tactical genius, but by treachery.
The castle blacksmith had been bribed to start a fire inside the walls. While the blaze spread, a fresh attack began on the walls and the defenders were fighting on two fronts. By morning, the garrison had no choice but to surrender and Neil was hanged by Edward as a traitor.
The treacherous blacksmith got his reward, but not as he was expecting. Legend says that a large sum of gold was delivered as promised – molten and poured down his throat.
Walk over the Brig O’ Balgownie in Old Aberdeen and you’re crossing one of the oldest standing bridges in Britain. For around 500 years, this was the only thing connecting Aberdeen to the north, which is an impressively long history considering the bridge carries a curse.
The bridge is thought to have been started around 1290, pausing construction for the First War of Independence, and finally finished on the orders of Robert the Bruce around 1320. The current structure was repaired and strengthened in the seventeenth century but at the core it’s the same bridge.
The following prophecy has been attributed to the prophet Thomas the Rhymer:
Brig O’ Balgownie, black’s yer wa’;
Wi’ a wife’s ae son, and a meer’s ae foal,
Doon ye shall fa’.
That means the bridge is just waiting for an only son, riding a horse that was an only foal, to cross before collapsing.
The poet Lord Byron wrote that when the time came for him to ride over the bridge, he paused. Familiar with the rhyme after growing up in Aberdeenshire and being an only child, he was a bit worried since he didn’t know much about his horse. Fortunately, he made it safely across the Don, so we can assume that his steed had siblings.
Not far outside Inverurie, in the shadow of Bennachie, looms the enormous 3m-tall Maiden Stone. It displays Pictish images on one side, a Christian cross on the reverse and archaeologists will tell you it was carved by the Picts around AD 700. Storytellers, on the other hand, have a very different explanation.
The 3m-tall Maiden Stone, with a chunk missing where the Devil grabbed the girl’s shoulder.
Not far from here lived a laird and his beautiful daughter, with an incredible view of Bennachie from their window. The laird’s daughter had been courted by every young man for 100 miles and there was a collective disappointment when she eventually agreed to settle down with one lucky suitor.
Most had accepted their loss by her wedding day, but as the maiden baked bannocks that morning, somebody new came calling. The stranger struck up a conversation, even attempting to convince her to call off the wedding! He was charming, handsome and witty, but she wasn’t going to change her mind that easily.
With a cunning smile on his face, the visitor offered the maiden a bet. If he could build a path to the top of Bennachie before she had finished baking her bannocks, would she marry him then?
It was an impossible task, so to get rid of him the maiden said, ‘Aye right then’ with a roll of her eyes.
Within the hour, her bannocks were almost ready and she peered out the window. To her shock, there was a gleaming new path leading up the hill, still known as the Maiden Causeway today. The handsome stranger was running down it towards her and she realised now that it was the Devil in disguise.
Sprinting out the door, the maiden could see her pursuer was catching up fast. Praying with all her might, she declared that it would be better to be turned to stone than married to the Devil!
Her prayer was answered, transforming her into the Maiden Stone just as the Devil caught her shoulder, which explains the large chunk missing from the monument. She’s stood here quietly ever since.
Craigievar Castle is maybe better known simply as the pink castle. While it might look like something out of a fairy tale, not all of its stories are child friendly, especially its naked ghost.
The castle was once home to Red Sir John Forbes, his nickname coming from both his bright hair and fiery temper. One day, believing he was alone in Craigievar, he heard light footsteps and giggling coming from a bedroom upstairs.
Sword in hand, Red John burst in to find his daughter in bed with a son of his sworn enemies, the Gordons. Without even the chance to put his clothes on, the young Gordon found himself fighting for his life. No match for Red John, the boy was backed up against the window and given two choices:
1. Be run through by John’s sword.
2. Jump from the window.
If he survived the fall, then he would be free to limp back naked to his father. Unfortunately, that 50ft drop onto granite slabs proved to be a death sentence.
Today, the window he jumped from is covered over by a huge panel behind a bed, built in an attempt to stop the ghost of that young Gordon from getting back in. It didn’t work and visitors, often men, sometimes find their clothes being tugged by an unseen hand.
Clearly, the ghost is still naked and wants a bit of decency in the afterlife.
Dunnottar is one of the most instantly recognised castles in Scotland, it’s also one of the oldest! This headland has been fortified for well over 1,000 years and Donald II, one the earliest Kings of Scots, was killed here in battle.
Fast forward to the mid-seventeenth century and Oliver Cromwell had taken control of England, before destroying their crown jewels as a symbol of the monarchy. Instead of following suit, Scotland declared Charles II their new king and crowned him at Scone Palace.
In response, Cromwell invaded and Edinburgh quickly fell, so the crown, sword and sceptre that make up the Honours of Scotland had to be taken somewhere safer. Dunnottar Castle, home to William Keith, was the obvious choice and to avoid any prying eyes, each piece was brought into the castle by Katherine Drummond, hidden inside sacks of wool.
Regardless of the deception, Cromwell’s army eventually arrived on the Aberdeenshire coast to capture Dunnottar. The castle held out for months, but it was clear they couldn’t last forever. It was time to get the Honours back out again.
There are two stories about how that happened. Christine Fletcher, the wife of a local minister, claimed that she smuggled each piece out in three trips, right under the nose of the besieging army. A later story said that Fletcher lowered them from a window to the beach, where her servant hid them in a creel.
Either way, they were taken to her husband’s church at Kinneff and buried beneath the floorboards. Every few months, the floor was prised up and the Honours aired out to save them from damage.
Once Cromwell’s army had stormed Dunnottar Castle, they were told that the treasure they were looking for had been sent overseas and far out of their reach. Nine years later, with Charles II now back in charge, the Honours were dug up and put back in their rightful place.
Drum Castle looks like a different building from every angle with a medieval tower, Jacobean wing and Victorian extension. While it’s grown throughout the centuries and adapted to new styles, one thing that has never changed is the loyalty of the Irvines of Drum.
The castle was gifted to William de Irwyn in 1323 by Robert the Bruce as a reward for supporting him to secure the Scottish throne. William played a particularly special role, guarding the King as he slept under a holly bush, which is where the leaves on the Irvine crest come from.
Drum Castle would remain the seat of Clan Irvine for the next 650 years, throughout the many ups and downs of Scottish history.
They were called to defend the Scottish crown once again during the Red Battle of Harlaw in 1411. During the fight, Alexander Irvine the 3rd Laird of Drum saw himself facing the legendary MacLean Chief, Red Hector of the Battles. Left to fight one on one and matching each other blow for blow, the pair ended up falling side by side.
Drum Castle with its medieval tower – home to the Irvines for 650 years.
When the Jacobite risings started, the Irvines stayed true to the Stuart regime and supported Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745. Like everybody else who opposed the government, once the dust had settled the 17th Laird of Drum was a hunted fugitive. Unlike most others, this Alexander Irvine refused to flee the country and stayed a little closer to home.
It was a dangerous choice, but for three years the Laird hid right under the nose of the authorities. Every time the soldiers arrived unannounced, Alexander hid in a secret room inside Drum Castle while his sister Mary covered for him. They did unfortunately make off with the family silver though.
It was a popular story, but without knowing where that secret room was, it could have just been another far-fetched legend. Then, in 2013, archaeologists discovered a secret room which may have been the loyal Laird’s hiding place, covered over and forgotten for generations!
Castles don’t come much more picturesque than Crathes, but underneath the beauty lie tragic stories of ghostly figures.
The most famous is the Green Lady, spotted by many people over the years including Queen Victoria. She appears either as a young woman carrying a baby or a green orb, gliding across the room before disappearing into the fireplace.
Said to have been a servant girl who became pregnant by one of the Burnett lairds, she disappeared mysteriously shortly after giving birth and the scandal was covered up. Whatever the truth behind the legend, when the castle was undergoing renovations in the 1800s, the skeleton of a baby was discovered underneath the fireplace of the Green Lady’s room.
Often forgotten, the story of the White Lady is much older, from before the present sixteenth-century castle was built. Back then the Burnett family lived on an artificial island in a nearby loch and that was where the young Laird Alexander Burnett was preparing for his upcoming wedding.
His blushing bride Bertha was staying with the family in the lead-up to the big day, but like many ambitious mothers, Lady Agnes didn’t think Bertha was good enough for her only son. Alexander was smitten though, so there was nothing she could do.
That was until the Laird rode off to deal with some business, just days before the wedding. Agnes took her opportunity to strike, poisoning the lovely Bertha during dinner and when Alexander returned, he was crushed with the news. Even though he strongly suspected his mother, there was no way to prove it.
On the day of the wedding, Bertha’s parents arrived to find their daughter wrapped in a white shroud instead of a white dress. As they came face to face with Lady Agnes, a look of terror came over her. Pointing behind the grieving couple, Agnes cried, ‘She comes! She comes!’ before dropping dead at their feet.
It’s said that every year, on the anniversary of Bertha’s death, the White Lady appears, walking from the old island to Crathes Castle. Even after they moved, she didn’t ever want the Burnetts to forget about her fate.
On a bright sunny day, the Loch of Skene is a lovely place to wander but visit during an icy winter and there’s more than just the temperature to make you shiver.
In the late seventeenth century, the local laird was the cruel Alexander Seaton, known better to his tenants as the Wizard of Skene. He learned his evil trade from the Devil himself and had the power to freeze his enemies where they stood or make them dance until their feet bled. Luckily, you knew he was coming by the noise of all the crows following his every move.
One dark, frosty winter’s night, the Wizard instructed his coachman Kilgour to meet him and another passenger near the Loch of Skene. Before he left, Alexander stared the coachman dead in the eyes and offered a grave warning. Don’t look at the guest’s face under any circumstances.
Following his orders, Kilgour sat up front and gazed straight ahead as he drove. The weather was cold enough that the Loch of Skene was entirely frozen over, so the trio slowly journeyed straight across the ice. However, the coachman overheard some disturbing whispers behind him.
His curiosity got the better of him, and he turned in his seat to have a quick peek at who the visitor was. At that moment, the hooded figure snapped his head round and Kilgour found himself staring into the eyes of the Devil. He panicked and lost control of the reins, causing his coach to veer wildly to the side, tip over and smash through the ice.
While the Devil and Wizard both survived unscathed, the poor coachman was never found. Sometimes, when the Loch of Skene freezes over, it’s said that two parallel grooves, like the ruts from a carriage, can still be seen today. If that’s not enough, take a short trip to Skene Church and find the grave of Alexander Seaton himself – an odd place to find a servant of the Devil!
Not every great Scottish battle was a patriotic fight against invading English or Vikings. There have always been plenty of internal power struggles to keep fighting men well practised and the Harlaw Monument above Inverurie commemorates one of the bloodiest.
At the start of the fifteenth century, Scotland had been stuck with the weak King Robert III, followed by the young King James growing up in English captivity. Into that power vacuum stepped the Duke of Albany, already the most powerful man in Scotland, but now deciding to add the Earldom of Ross to his vast lands.
One man who wasn’t happy about the situation was Donald of Islay, the Chief of Clan Donald, who had his own claim to Ross. Calling together the west coast clans, Donald sailed around the north of Scotland and promptly captured Dingwall to prove his point.
After coercing the locals into joining them, his army swelled to 10,000 men and they began marching to Aberdeen. This seemingly unstoppable horde was met near Inverurie by the Earl of Mar and 2,000 men. They might have been outnumbered, but these were heavily armoured warriors, the best that the north-east could offer.
The Battle of Harlaw Monument, standing high above Inverurie with Bennachie in the distance.
The Battle of Harlaw was intensely fierce. Those lightly armoured Islanders swarmed against their enemy but struggled to break through. Hundreds were chopped down just to be replaced by a fresh wave of warriors and the Lowland nobility were decimated; between a quarter and a half lay slain.
The dwindling Aberdeenshire army camped that night assuming the next day would be their last but when they woke up, they were alone. Donald had retreated back home, giving up his claim to Ross. Both sides claimed victory and the bloody conflict would become famous as the Red Battle of Harlaw!
The Gordon Earls of Huntly were rarely a quiet bunch, some of them so boisterous that they kicked up a fuss even after death. Recorded immediately after the event, the death of the 5th Earl remains one of the most chilling tales from Aberdeenshire.
In 1578, the Earl suddenly collapsed during a game of football in the grounds of Huntly Castle. After being carried inside, vomiting black blood, he didn’t survive for long and his corpse was left in his chamber until burial.
People began complaining of an icy chill in the neighbouring rooms, even shivering in front of a roaring fire, before mysteriously dropping down as if dead. When they awoke, all anybody could remember was a strangely cold, dark feeling before they passed out.
A surgeon from Aberdeen failed to determine the cause of the Earl’s death, so the body was taken to the chapel. To the surprise of Huntly’s brother, shuffling and scraping noises began coming from the Earl’s locked and now empty bedroom.
Together, the group plucked up the courage to peer into the dark room. It was as empty as they expected. As the Earl’s brother crept inside, the noises started again all around him. Bolting out of the room, he bravely returned, armed with plenty of candles this time for one last look.
Before he stepped foot through the doorway, the candles started flickering and the shuffling was heard louder than ever. Whatever was hiding in the Earl’s bedroom clearly didn’t want to be disturbed and that was all the warning they needed to leave it well alone.
Right outside the door of the Old Potarch Hotel sit two enormous stones fitted with iron rings, daring visitors to try and lift them. It’s obvious that these are no ordinary rocks, but what makes the Dinnie Stones truly special is their connection with the world’s greatest athlete.
Donald Dinnie was the son of a local stonemason and had been winning local competitions and Highland Games since the tender age of 16. In 1860, while working on the Potarch Bridge, he decided to prove his strength by lifting these two stones being used as scaffolding counterweights.
Donald successfully carried all 332kg across the 17ft width of the bridge with his bare hands, a feat that has only ever been matched by a handful of people, including his father.
This Aberdeenshire strongman would become a worldwide sensation, labelled the greatest athlete of the nineteenth century. During his career he won over 10,000 competitions, amassing prize money that would reach into the millions today. His victories included being crowned champion of the Highland Games twenty-one years in a row between 1856 and 1876.
By that point Donald was travelling the world, defeating professional wrestlers along with anything else thrown his way. The most impressive thing about his stone-carrying feat is that he wasn’t an enormous, hulking brute. Measuring 6ft 1in and weighing 15st, Donald was an all-round athlete, just as capable a sprinter and jumper as he was a strongman.
No doubt he would be proud that these stones named after him are still in use today for those who arrange it in advance. He’ll be even more proud to know that most challengers struggle to get them off the ground, never mind across the Potarch Bridge!
Well off the usual tourist trail, Gight Castle seems a sinister location, being slowly reclaimed by nature. Maybe that’s for the best, as this ruin seems to be a favourite haunt of the Devil.
Gight was built by the Gordons high on a hill above the winding Ythan River, but its position was of little reassurance to the 7th Laird when a small army came knocking. Knowing that he couldn’t defend his home, he hid any wealth that he couldn’t carry off in a deep pool in the river.
Once the coast was clear again, it was time to collect it, but a man of his stature wouldn’t dive into the river himself. His servant was forced down into the depths before suddenly bursting back to the surface in a panic. White as a sheet, he screamed that the Devil was down there guarding the hoard!
The Laird of Gight wasn’t somebody to be refused and the diver was forced back in at the point of a sword. As the seconds passed, the Laird began to get a little concerned, before his servant finally reappeared, floating to the surface in four separate pieces.
That’s not the only legend surrounding Gight Castle though, and when Thomas the Rhymer visited the area he prophesied:
At Gight three men by sudden death shall dee,
After that the land shall lie in lea.
When the Earl of Aberdeen bought Gight as a home for his son Lord Haddo, it had been 500 years since the prophecy and the words were almost forgotten. Then Haddo fell from his horse, followed a short time later by his close servant. People began to whisper about the two sudden deaths.
Years passed and two estate workers were discussing the local legend of the unfulfilled prophecy. One joked to the other that Thomas the Rhymer couldn’t have been a very good prophet after all! The next day, the wall of the farmhouse collapsed on top of him.
It’s not easy to find, but hidden deep in Camustane Wood, not far from Monikie, is the beautiful Camus Cross. This freestanding stone cross is around 1,000 years old and elaborately carved on both sides. It might look like just a work of art, but local tradition claims that the mound it’s sitting on is the burial cairn of Camus, an important Viking warlord.
Camus is said to have been killed at the Battle of Barry, a story that’s been passed down through the centuries although nobody knows its source. The battle supposedly took place where Carnoustie stands today and until recently, was widely accepted as fact.
At the start of the eleventh century, Malcolm II was King of Scots, ruling in an incredibly turbulent time. He spent his entire reign dealing with local uprisings, seaborne invasions and devastating raids across the southern border.
After Malcolm had won a few small victories, a huge force of Danes under the leadership of Camus landed at Lunan Bay to teach the King of Scots a lesson. They marched along the coast, burning towns to provoke a reaction, while the Scots gathered in Dundee.
It all culminated in the Battle of Barry, where the Scots managed to get the better of the invaders once again. When Camus saw that the day was lost, he fled into the hills with Robert de Keith hot on his heels and this carved cross is said to be erected where he was struck dead.
There’s even a theory that the name Carnoustie comes from ‘Craws Nestie’, due to all the crows that came to peck at the fallen warriors. Huge burial sites were uncovered in the area, once thought to prove the story of the battle, but modern historians now believe the Battle of Barry and even Camus himself, could be entirely fictional.
The Camus Cross standing on a mound in the middle of an avenue of trees in Camustane Woods.
True or not, walking down the wooded avenue towards the Camus Cross makes your imagination run wild. With crows screeching above you, it’s hard not to keep checking over your shoulder for the ghosts of long-dead Viking warriors!
St Vigeans might just look like a regular church on a hill, but legend says it sits on an artificial mound on thick iron bars above a deep loch. Built with the help of a kelpie, these supernatural creatures live in water, take the form of horses on land and usually prey on unsuspecting travellers.
The builder of St Vigeans managed to capture a kelpie’s bridle, which enslaved it to his will. With the strength of ten regular horses, it was a great help when it came to constructing the church, right above its home.
Using the kelpie’s strength to drag the heavy blocks of stone wasn’t the smartest move since it was a proud creature. Once released, it uttered a terrible curse that one day a minister would kill himself and on the very next Communion, the church would tumble into the loch below.
The story was passed down, with local people taking pride in the unique legend of their little church. Then one day in the 1720s, tragedy struck. Very sadly, the first half of the curse came true and the congregation refused to take Communion there for almost forty years in case the second part followed.
Eventually, a new minister found somebody brave enough to take the risk. Just before Communion, the entire congregation ran outside to watch from a safe distance, fully expecting the church to collapse.
Fortunately, that didn’t happen and St Vigeans still stands. Maybe something broke the curse or maybe the kelpie finally decided to forgive and forget.
The stunning red Edzell Castle with its ornate garden is a pleasure to visit on a sunny day. It’s not quite as inviting late at night though, with the walls haunted by the crying ghost of the White Lady.
This lady is believed to be the spirit of Katherine Campbell, wife of the 9th Earl of Crawford. After the Earl died, Katherine stayed at Edzell with her son until she sadly passed away in the winter of 1578 and was laid to rest in the nearby Lindsay burial aisle.
She had been a wealthy woman and there were rumours that she had been buried with a hoard of jewellery. A couple of locals decided that a dead body didn’t need any riches, they were going to steal it before anybody else had a chance, breaking into the crypt the same night Katherine was laid to rest.
They didn’t find the treasure they had expected, but there were a few bits and pieces worth selling on. The biggest prize were the golden rings, but no matter how hard they pulled or twisted, they weren’t coming off. Since she was already dead, one of the robbers just took a knife to Katherine’s finger.
To their horror, the corpse sat bolt upright and let out a high-pitched scream! Katherine wasn’t dead after all, but the terrified men ran for their lives at the sight of a walking corpse.
A very confused Katherine stumbled from the burial aisle to Edzell Castle in the depth of winter, having lost a lot of blood. It was the castle guards’ turn to run screaming when a lady dressed in white, covered in blood and wailing appeared in the dead of night. Instead of letting their mistress inside the gates, the guards just hid indoors.
The unfortunate Katherine died outside the walls and it seems as if her spirit is still there, trying to get safely inside the castle.
Not far from the border where Perthshire and Angus meet, the River Isla crashes down over the Reekie Linn waterfall. Its name means Smoky Pool and when the river is in spate, a fine mist rises out of the deep gorge. If you’ve got good eyes, then through the spray you might spot a large cave down far below.
That’s the Black Dub, a cavern once used by a man on the run. Some stories say he was a local laird, others call him a notorious, cattle-rustling outlaw. Either way, this character had just killed a man and now he was on the run.
Well hidden by the smoky roar of the Reekie Linn, the killer was dealing with a heavy conscience when he saw something that changed his life. A big, black growling dog was padding slowly towards him out of the gloom. One thing about hiding next to a waterfall this powerful – nobody can hear you scream.
The man was in no doubt that this was the Devil visiting him because of his crimes. He was so terrified that he immediately clambered out of the cave, up the gorge and straight to the authorities to hand himself in.
While the cave can be seen from across the gorge, it’s not accessible by any path and is far too dangerous to attempt a visit. You never know what would be waiting inside anyway!
The Reekie Linn Waterfall in full spate, hiding a dark cave to the bottom left that’s haunted by the Devil.
The hamlet of Fern is a tiny place, with a few scattered homes and a quaint but perfectly situated old church. Deep in the Angus countryside and surrounded by well-tended fields, this quiet spot was once home to the brownie of Fern Den.
He wasn’t like most brownies who make their home in grand houses, farms or mills though, this rough-looking little creature lived out among the trees and streams. In some old accounts of the story, he’s referred to as a ‘ghaist’, meaning something supernatural, but from his description and habits, we can be sure of his true identity.
This brownie might not have lived on a farm, but he was a regular visitor to the farmhouse near Fern Den. Arriving after the sun had set, he would clean the byre, thresh the harvested crops and carry out any other tasks that needed finished. If he needed any milk or food, he was more than welcome to help himself.
While the farmer and his wife loved the brownie for his help, the other farm workers hated him for making them look lazy. They whispered rumours that he was a dangerous beast and people began to fear passing through Fern Den in case they bumped into him!
Then one day, the farmer’s wife fell ill. She was so sick that it didn’t look like she was going to make it through to morning without help from a healer in the next village over. He couldn’t risk leaving his wife, so somebody else would have to ride out into the darkness to fetch help.
All the servants argued about who would go, none willing to risk the creature in Fern Den or anything else lurking in the night. The brownie was listening behind a door, furious at the lot of them for wasting time while their mistress suffered. Grabbing a big coat and floppy hat off the peg, he jumped on the farmer’s horse to do yet another task by himself.
Knocking on the healer’s door, the brownie explained the urgency of the situation and swept the old lady up onto the mare in front of him. She looked at this little figure curiously but had no time to argue before they were racing away back towards the farmhouse.
It was clear the healer was getting nervous when they approached the darkness of Fern Den.
‘What if we meet the terrifying brownie?!’ she asked.
Her companion replied, ‘I can assure you madam; you won’t meet any creature more dangerous than I tonight.’
Once they arrived, the brownie helped his passenger down and knocked his hat off in the process. The healer looked shocked, gasping at his odd appearance and asked what kind of creature he was!
He replied, ‘Just you go and see to my mistress, but if anybody should ask, tell them that you rode in the company of the brownie of Fern Den!’
Glen Esk is a sleepy place, with a long road that stops near the Old Kirk at Loch Lee and travellers are faced with hours of walking through mountain passes to get any further. It might be quiet today, but in the mid-eighteenth century this area was swarming with government soldiers, hunting for the Laird of Balnamoon.
As a loyal Jacobite, James Carnegy was one of many forced on the run after the Battle of Culloden. He had survived that carnage but was a wanted man and knew his home was no longer safe. Instead, James lay low in the isolated hills and small glens at the head of Glen Esk, becoming known as the Rebel Laird.
Hidden in Glen Mark near the Queen’s Well, the tiny Balnamoon’s cave is where the Laird sheltered whenever the soldiers came looking. The good people of the Angus Glens kept James well fed and watered, protecting him from prying eyes for months. That was until the local Presbyterian minister discovered what had been going on.
He betrayed James’s position and the Rebel Laird was dragged down Glen Esk all the way to London for trial, but for once British bureaucracy worked in his favour.
In order to inherit his wife’s family land, he had been forced to take her name and designation, becoming James Carnegy-Arbuthnott of Findowrie. The arrest warrant was clearly for James Carnegy of Balnamoon, so obviously they had the wrong person and were forced to let him go!
The Laird of Balnamoon was allowed to return home and live the rest of his days in comfort, but maybe he still visited his cave from time to time, just for a bit of peace and quiet.
Kirriemuir is a fantastic small town, home to Scotland’s oldest sweet shop and the childhood home of Peter Pan author J.M. Barrie. Up the hill where Barrie used to play cricket, you can find a monolith that’s literally half the stone it used to be.
A long time ago, on a busy market day in Kirriemuir, three outlaws were on the prowl. They targeted a farmer who had done well selling his stock that day, preparing an ambush on his road home. That poor farmer was beaten and robbed before the outlaws fled the scene, taking their ill-gotten gains up to a quiet spot on Kirriemuir Hill.
Hiding behind the standing stone, they were splitting their loot into three shares when they heard a loud crack. Gazing up, the last thing they saw was half a slab of rock falling on top of them as the standing stone split in two.
That fallen half was said to have lain there for years. The townsfolk knew the outlaws’ haul of coins was buried underneath, but they were too afraid to dig it up. Maybe the standing stone was the guardian of the town or maybe for some reason those coins were cursed. After all, one man had been beaten senseless and three others killed over it.
However, the fallen half of the stone isn’t there any more, just the smaller upright section acting as a headstone for the robbers. Supposedly, the removed part is now built into a nearby field wall, but there’s no mention of the buried money. It might still be there, unless whoever reused the stone found it and maybe picked up a curse at the same time.
Arbroath Abbey is famous for the signing of the Declaration of Arbroath in 1320, however, there’s another less well-known story there that deserves to be told. Just over 100 years after the declaration was signed, the peace and tranquillity of Arbroath Abbey would be shattered.
The monks had employed Alexander Lindsay as their Baillie of Regality, responsible for upholding local law. He was the son of the powerful Earl of Crawford, so should have been a reassuring protector, but instead turned out to be an irresponsible lout. Lindsay abused his power, while his men caused mayhem within the abbey walls.
Eventually, the monks couldn’t handle it any longer and replaced him with Alexander Ogilvy, the Lindsay family’s biggest rival. In response, the furious, ousted noble raised an army of 1,000 men and marched them to the doors of Arbroath Abbey.
Ogilvy and his allies were badly outnumbered, but they bravely squared off against Lindsay’s troops. Insults flew back and forward while the two sides worked up the courage to attack. All the while Lindsay’s father, the Earl of Crawford, was racing from Dundee to stop the madness.
He reached Arbroath just in time, galloping in between the lines of armed men to try and keep the peace. One of Ogilvy’s men mistook Crawford’s calls for diplomacy as a call to attack and launched a spear, snatching him from the horse and killing him instantly.
That dramatic act broke the stalemate and the Battle of Arbroath had begun. The fighting lasted for hours as the outnumbered Ogilvy side was chased across the Angus countryside. By the time it was over, Ogilvy himself was dead and Lindsay was victorious, letting his army loose to wreak even more havoc now that Arbroath Abbey was now back in his control.
There are few better places to find Pictish stones than in Angus and they don’t come much more fascinating than in Aberlemno. Along the roadside by the village hall stand three of varying ages, but the most remarkable is found by the church.
Not only is the craftsmanship of the Aberlemno Kirkyard Stone extraordinary, but unlike most Pictish stones, we might know what story it’s telling. It’s impossible to be certain and there will always be different theories, but it’s clear that there’s a battle scene unfolding.
Following the lines, long-haired figures are facing off against helmeted foes, with spears and swords, both on foot and horseback. It’s been suggested that the stone was carved to commemorate the Battle of Dun Nechtain in AD 685, a conflict that helped shape Scotland.
In the seventh century, the powerful Kingdom of Northumbria was stretching its control north, deep into Pictish territory. They already ruled the Lothians, were pushing through Fife into Angus and if things carried on, most of eastern Scotland would be under Northumbrian rule. The Picts weren’t just going to roll over and let that happen.
They regathered and carried out numerous raids on Northumbrian territory. Like a swarm of angry wasps, the Picts succeeded in poking the bear and King Ecgfrith gathered his mighty army to march north and deal with them properly.
King Bridei led the Picts, but at the sight of the Northumbrian host, his men retreated further and further into Pictland. Seeing his enemy on the run, Ecgfrith followed in haste, not realising he was marching into a trap.
Now deep in Pictish territory, at a narrow pass, Bridei put his plan into action and destroyed the Northumbrian Army at the Battle of Dun Nechtain. In the bottom right of the Aberlemno Kirkyard Stone, a figure being pecked is suggested to be King Ecgfrith himself, the bird symbolising his death on the battlefield.
There are other suggestions for the location of the battle but its importance in preserving the independence of the Picts can’t be overstated. While all of the Aberlemno Pictish stones are worth seeing, it’s worth remembering that they’re protected by insulated boxes during the frosty winter months.
The Aberlemno Kirkyard Stone, believed to depict the Battle of Dun Nechtain. The figure at the bottom right being pecked by a bird is said to be King Ecgfrith.
The impressive Glamis Castle might have sprawled into an enormous building now, but there’s no mistaking the old stone keep at its heart. Among all the stories these walls have to tell, that’s where to find the very best of them.
One Saturday night in the fifteenth century, a raucous group were drinking and playing cards in the lower levels of Glamis Castle. As the hour was reaching midnight, people began to get twitchy and disappear off to bed. They knew it was a terrible sin to gamble on the Sabbath.