Texas Home Landscaping including Oklahoma, 4th Edition E-Book

Roger Holmes

• Herausgeber: Creative Homeowner
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 531

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2024

Beschreibung

Texas Home Landscaping, Including Oklahoma 4th Edition is a newly updated and expanded edition of Creative Homeowner's award-winning, best-selling series of regional home landscaping books. In this Texas landscape guide, readers will find inspiring ideas for making the home landscape more attractive and functional. The 48 featured designs are created by landscape professionals from the region and use more than 200 native plants that thrive in the Texas region. Detailed instructions for landscape projects, such as paths, patios, ponds, and arbors, are also included, along with hundreds of photographs and step-by-step instructions. New to this edition is new content emphasizing the importance of eco-friendly plant selection to support conservation, permaculture, the impact of climate change in the Texas and Oklahoma region and measures to take, fire- and drought-resistant species, defensible space landscaping, and more. With Texas Home Landscaping, Including Oklahoma 4th Edition, the Lone Star state will be in full bloom!

Leseprobe

A Sunny Welcome

Flagstone walkways invite visitors

to stroll from the driveway to the

front door along a choice of paths

lined with eye-catching flowers and

equally attractive foliage. Many of

these perennials bloom nonstop

from spring to frost. Preparing

the planting beds and laying the

flagstone walkway are the main

tasks in this design. Once plants are

established, only seasonal cleanup

and pruning are required.

A Garden Path

Many residential lots include a slim strip

of land between the house and a property

line. This neglected passageway can become

a valued addition to the landscape. Like

furnishings in a room, the plantings make the

small space seem bigger than it is. A gently

curving flagstone path widens the passage

visually and lengthens the stroll through it.

An Outdoor “Living” Room

This design demonstrates how a patio

next to the house can become a true

extension of your living space with the

addition of an arbor, a fence, and plants

that create an attractive setting—and attract

hummingbirds as well. From early spring to

late fall, the plantings will provide colorful

accompaniments to your patio activities.

Inspiration for Your

Home Landscaping

Inside you’ll find designs to enhance entrances, decks, and patios

by using colorful annuals and perennials, trees, and shrubs.

Forty-eight home landscaping designs are included, created

by landscape professionals from the region.

TEXAS

HOME LANDSCAPING

Including Oklahoma

Other titles available in the

Home Landscaping

series:

CALIFORNIA

MID-ATLANTIC

MIDWEST

including Southern Canada

NORTHEAST

including Southeast Canada

NORTHWEST

including Western British Columbia

SOUTHERN COASTAL

SOUTHEAST

WESTERN

Greg Grant

Roger Holmes

CREATIVE HOMEOWNER

®

, Upper Saddle River, New Jersey

TEXAS

HOME LANDSCAPING

Including Oklahoma

Fourth Edition

Technical Editor for this edition: Charles Sadler

This book may not be reproduced, either in part or in its entirety, in any form, by any means,

without written permission from the publisher, with the exception of brief excerpts for

purposes of radio, television, or published review. All rights, including the right of translation,

are reserved. Note: Be sure to familiarize yourself with manufacturer’s instructions for tools,

equipment, and materials before beginning a project. Although all possible measures have

been taken to ensure the accuracy of the material presented, neither the author nor the

publisher is liable in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, or typographical

error.

Creative Homeowner

®

is a registered trademark of Federal Marketing Corporation.

Texas Superstar

®

is a registered trademark owned by Texas AgriLife Research.

TEXAS HOME LANDSCAPING

F

OURTH

E

DITION

MANAGING EDITOR

G

RETCHEN

B

ACON

EDITOR

M

ADELINE

D

E

L

UCA

TECHNICAL EDITOR

C

HARLES

S

ADLER

DESIGNER

F

REIRE

. D

ISSENY

+ C

OMUNICACIO

Texas Home Landscaping, Fourth Edition

Library of Congress Control Number: 2010933378

eISBN:978-1-63741-248-0

CREATIVE HOMEOWNER

®

is distributed by

Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 800-457-9112,

903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552.

COPYRIGHT © 2004, 2007, 2011, 2024

A Division of Federal Marketing Corp.

Upper Saddle River, NJ

About the Authors

Greg Grant

is a horticulturist with the Stephen

F. Austin State University Pineywoods Native

Plant Center in Nacogdoches. He previously held

positions with the Texas Agricultural Extension

Service, Louisiana State University, Lone Star

Growers, San Antonio Botanical Garden, and

Mercer Arboretum. He is a regular contributor

to

Texas Gardener, Neil Sperry’s Gardens,

and

Ornamental Outlook

magazines and co-author of

The Southern Heirloom Garden

.

Roger Holmes

is the founding editor of

Fine Gardening

magazine. He co-edited the

monumental Taylor’s

Master Guide to Gardening

and other highly regarded gardening books,

and produced the landscaping series of which

this book is part. He also co-wrote Creative

Homeowner’s

Creating Good Gardens

.

At Creative Homeowner we’re committed to

producing books in an earth-friendly manner and to

helping our customers make greener choices.

Manufacturing books in the United States ensures

compliance with strict environmental laws and elimi-

nates the need for international freight

shipping, a major contributor to global air pollution.

And printing on recycled paper helps minimize our

consumption of trees, water, and fossil fuels.

Texas

Home Landscaping

was printed on paper made

with 10% post-consumer waste.

According to the Environmental Defense Fund

Paper Calculator, by using this innovative paper

instead of conventional papers we achieved the fol-

lowing environmental benefits:

Trees Saved: 25

Water Saved: 11,506 gallons

Solid Waste Eliminated: 729 pounds

Greenhouse Gas Emissions Eliminated:

2,552 pounds

Courier Corporation, the manufacturer of this book,

owns the Green Edition Trademark.

■

Always

use caution, care, and good judgment when following the

procedures described in this book.

■

Always

determine locations of underground utility lines before

you dig, and then avoid them by a safe distance. Buried lines may

be for gas, electricity, communications, or water. Start research by

contacting your local building officials. Also contact local utility

companies; they will often send a representative free of charge to

help you map their lines. In addition, there are private utility locator

firms that may be listed in your Yellow Pages. Note: previous owners

may have installed underground drainage, sprinkler, and lighting

lines without mapping them. National Call Before You Dig, Dial 811.

■

Always

inspect your work area before you begin a project. Check

for trip hazards, overhead wires, loose rocks or branches, uneven

ground, or holes. Check if hard surfaces are wet, such as paved

areas, patios, and decks. If they are wet, it is best to postpone work

until they are dry.

■

Always

read and heed the manufacturer’s instructions for using a

tool, especially the warnings.

■

Always

inspect tools before beginning work, check that they are

sharpened and tightened, free of defects or rust, well-piled and

sanitzed to reduce the risk of spreading disease or pests from

previous work. Remember to oil after using. White lithium grease

is beneficial to spray on tools to prevent rust. This is important to

do when storing tools for a prolonged period.

■

Always

ensure that the electrical setup is safe; be sure that no

circuit is overloaded and that all power tools and electrical outlets

are properly grounded and protected by a ground-fault circuit

interrupter (GFCI). Do not use power tools in wet locations.

■

Never

transport firewood since it can harbor pests or disease,

spreading invasive pests. See

www.fs.usda.gov

for more info.

Safety First

Though all concepts and methods in this book have been reviewed for safety, it is not possible to overstate

the importance of using the safest working methods possible. What follows are reminders—dos and don’ts

for yard work and landscaping. They are not substitutes for your own common sense.

The Landscape Designers

■

Always

wear eye protection when using chemicals, sawing wood,

pruning trees and shrubs, using power tools, and striking metal

onto metal or concrete.

■

Always

read labels on chemicals, solvents, and other products;

provide ventilation; heed warnings.

■

Always

wear heavy rubber gloves rated for chemicals, not mere

household rubber gloves, when handling toxins.

■

Always

wear a disposable face mask or a special filtering

respirator when creating sawdust or working with toxic gardening

substances.

■

Always

be aware of biosecurity. When purchasing plants or

receiving as a gift make sure to inspect for pests or disease. It is

also important to sanitize all your garden tools before and after

pruning and between pruning of different plants to reduce risk of

spreading pests or disease.

■

Always

wear garden gloves when sawing or pruning trees and

shrubs. Remember to keep your hands and other body parts clear

of the cutting blades and bits.

■

Always

obtain approval from local building officials before

undertaking construction of permanent structures.

■

Never

work with power tools when you are tired or under the

influence of alcohol or drugs.

■

Never

carry sharp or pointed tools, such as knives or saws, in

your pockets. If you carry such tools, use special-purpose tool

scabbards.

John Ahrens, with Barry Landry, RLA, and Nena Scott,

King’s Creek Land-

scape Management, Austin, Texas. Their designs appear on pp. 36–39, 60–63,

70–73, and 88–91.

Mark Bowen,

Living Art Landscapes, Houston, Texas. His designs appear on

pp. 30–33, 80–83, and 84–87.

Michael Buccino,

Michael Buccino Associates, Palm Desert, California. His

designs appear on pp. 34–35 and 64–65.

Rosa Finsley, with Cheryl Bryant,

King’s Creek Gardens, Cedar Hill, Texas.

Their designs appear on pp. 52–55, 94–97, and 112–115.

Michael Parkey,

Dallas, Texas. His designs appear on pp. 20–23, 56–59, and

100–103.

Susan Romiti and Ross Holmquist,

Mike Parker Landscape, Laguna Beach,

California. Their design appears on pp. 28–29.

Carolyn Singer

owns Foothill Cottage Gardens, Grass Valley, California. Her

design appears on pp. 78–79.

John S. Troy, with Anne Solsbery,

John S. Troy Landscape, San Antonio, Texas.

Their designs appear on pp. 40–43, 48–51, and 66–69.

John Valentino and Bob Truxell,

Truxell and Valentino Landscape Develop-

ment, Inc., Clovis, California. Their designs appear on pp. 98–99, and 110–111.

Jenny Webber,

Oakland, California. Her design appears on pp. 92–93.

Mary Wilhite and Sharon Lee Smith,

Blue Moon Gardens, Tyler, Texas. Their

designs appear on pp. 24–27, 44–47, 74–77, and 106–109.

Richard William Wogisch,

Oasis Gardens, San Francisco, California. His

design appears on pp. 104–105.

Contents

About This Book

8

Seasons in Your Landscape

12

As Your Landscape Grows

16

Eco-Friendly Plants

18

Climate Change Impact

20

Portfolio of Designs

22

Up Front Informal

24

Turn a small front yard into a welcoming garden.

A Foundation with Flair

28

Flowers and foliage create a front garden.

Fancy Foundation

32

Create a striking entry garden.

First Impressions

34

Make a pleasant passage to your front door.

An Entry Oasis

38

Extend a friendly desert welcome.

A No-Mow Slope

40

A terraced garden transforms a steep site.

An Eye-Catching Corner

44

Beautify a boundary with easy-care plants.

Streetwise and Stylish

48

Give your curbside strip a new look.

A Garden Path

52

Reclaim a narrow side yard for a stroll garden.

Landscaping a Low Wall

56

A two-tiered garden replaces a bland slope.

Angle of Repose

60

Make a back-door garden in a sheltered niche.

Beautify a Blank Wall

64

A vertical garden makes the most of a narrow site.

Backyard Makeover

68

Get a lot out of a small, freeze-tolerant garden.

Gateway Garden

70

Arbor, fence, and plantings make an inviting entry.

Elegant Symmetry

74

Make a formal garden for your backyard.

A Beginning Border

78

Flowers and a fence make a carefree design.

Year-In-Year-Out Border

82

Perennials and a wall make a traditional design.

Garden in the Round

84

Create a planting with several attractive faces.

A Shady Hideaway

88

Build a cozy retreat in a corner of your yard.

An Outdoor “Living” Room

92

Patio and shady arbor provide fresh-air

opportunities.

Formal Outdoor Living

96

Create shady entertaining space on this formal

patio.

Splash Out

98

Make a handsome water garden in a few

weekends.

Poolside Pleasures

102

Plantings enhance your swimming pool.

Down to Earth

104

Harmonize your deck with its surroundings.

Decked-Out Deck

108

Make your deck an inviting gateway to the

outdoors.

A Green Screen

110

Hide refuse and recycling bins with a fence and

foliage.

Planting in the Pines

114

Surround your woodland deck with flowering

shrubs.

A Woodland Link

116

Create a shrub border for nearby woods.

High-Allergen Plants

120

A closer look at pollen.

Guide to Installation

154

Organizing Your Project

156

Introducing the tasks involved in a landscape

installation; how to organize them for best results.

Clearing the Site

158

Removing turf, weeds, and other unwanted

material.

Water for Your Plants

160

Water-wise practices; watering systems.

Making Paths and Walkways

163

Choosing materials, preparing the base, installing

edgings, laying the surface.

Laying a Patio

170

Employing the same materials and techniques as

for walks and paths; ensuring proper drainage.

Installing a Pond

170

Siting, excavating, installing a flexible liner or

fiber-glass shell; growing pond plants.

Building a Retaining Wall

176

Laying out, excavating, and assembling a precast

modular wall system and steps.

Fences, Arbors, and Trellises

180

Plant Profiles

121

Descriptions of all the plants shownin the Portfolio

122

of Designs, plus information on how to plant

and care for them.

Wood selection, layout, post setting, basic

construction; plans for building the fences, trellises,

and arbors shown in the Portfolio of Designs.

Preparing the Soil for Planting

198

Digging and improving the soil; edging for beds.

Buying Plants

202

Where to go, what to look for, how to get

the best quality and price.

The Planting Process

203

When to plant, steps in the planting process,

spacing; annuals as fillers.

Planting Basics

205

Plants in containers, balled-and-burlapped plants,

bare-root plants, ground covers, and bulbs.

Basic Landscape Care

207

Mulches and fertilizers; controlling weeds

andwatering.

Defensible Space

210

Caring for Woody Plants

213

Basic pruning for trees, shrubs, vines, and roses;

making a hedge.

Caring for Perennials

218

Routine care, pruning, dividing.

Problem Solving

220

Understanding common problems with animal

and insect pests and diseases; winter damage.

Oak Wilt Disease

222

Glossary

224

Index

226

Photo Credits

231

8

TEXAS HOME LANDSCAPING

About This Book

Planting and caring for shrubs, perennials, and other plants

can afford years of enjoyment. For those who like to build things,

outdoor construction projects can be especially satisfying.

While the installation and maintenance of plants and outdoor

structures are within the means and abilities of most people, few

of us are as comfortable determining exactly which plants or

structures to use and how best to combine them. It’s one thing to

decide to dress up the front entrance or patio, another to come

up with a design for doing so.

That’s where this book comes in. Here, in the Portfolio of

Designs, you’ll find designs for more than 28 common home-

landscaping situations, created by landscape professionals. Draw-

ing on years of experience, these designers balance functional

requirements including extreme weather and aesthetic possibili-

ties, choosing the right plant or structure for the task, confident in

its proven performance in similar landscaping situations.

The second section, Plant Profiles, gives information on all the

plants used in the book. Complementing the Portfolio of Designs

and Plant Profiles is the Guide to Installation, the book’s third sec-

tion, which will help you install and maintain the plants and struc-

tures called for in the designs. The discussions that follow take a

closer look at each section; we’ve also printed representative pages

of the sections on pp. 9-10 and pointed out their features.

Portfolio of Designs

This section is the heart of the book, providing examples of

landscaping situations and solutions that are at once inspiring

and accessible. Some are simple, others more complex, but

each one can be installed in a few weekends by homeowners

with no special training or experience.

For most situations, we present two designs, the second a

variation of the first. As the sample pages on the facing page

show, the first design is displayed on a two-page spread. A

perspective illustration (called a “rendering”) depicts what the

design will look like several years after installation, when the

perennials and many of the shrubs have reached mature size.

To

see how a landscape changes within a single year, see “Seasons in

Your Landscape,” pp. 12–15. For more on how plantings change

as they age, refer to “As Your Landscape Grows,” pp. 16–17. The

rendering also shows the planting as it will appear at a particular

time of year. A site plan indicates the positions of the plants and

structures on a scaled grid. Text introduces the situation and the

design and describes the plants and projects used.

The second design, presented on the second two-page

spread, addresses the same

situation as the first but differs in

one or more important aspects. It might show a planting suit-

ed for a shady rather than a sunny site, or it might incorporate

different structures or kinds of plants to create a different look.

As in the first design, we present a rendering, site plan, and writ-

ten information, but in briefer form. The second spread also

includes photographs of a selection of the plants featured in the

two designs. The photos showcase noteworthy qualities—lovely

flowers, handsome foliage, or striking form—that these plants con-

tribute to the designs.

Install plants exactly as shown here or rearrange groupings

and substitute favorite ones to suit your taste.

Of all the home-improvement projects

homeowners tackle, few offer greater rewards

than landscaping. At the main entrance, an attractive brick walkway flanked by eye-catching

shrubs and perennials provides a cheerful welcome. A carefully placed grouping of small trees,

shrubs, and fence panels creates privacy on the patio or screens a nearby eyesore from view.

An island bed divides the backyard into several areas for a variety of activities.

The Texas State Flower

Arrival of the Bluebonnets is

a magical time in Texas. This

cherished state flower is an

annual; it grows from seed

dispersed the previous sea-

son. Because of this, they

can be a challenge to get

established, requiring cer-

tain conditions and taking

several seasons to establish.

October and November

are the best months to sow the seeds. Learn more from

www.wildflower.org.

10

TEXAS HOME LANDSCAPING

PLANT PROFILES

❷

Check the surface with a level or

straightedge. Fill under low bricks;

tamp down high ones. Use a plank

to distribute your weight if you

must work on the path.

Cover gravel base with

water-permeable landscape

fabric and add 2 to 4 in. of

bark or wood chips.

LOOSE MATERIALS

169

MAKING PATHS AND WALKWAYS

168

GUIDE TO INSTALLATION

Laying the surface

Whether you’re laying a loose or hard material, take time to plan

your work. Provide access for delivery trucks, and have material

deposited as close to the worksite as possible.

Loose materials

Install water-permeable landscape fabric over the gravel base

to prevent gravel from mixing with the surface material. Spread

bark or wood chips 2 to 4 in. deep. For a pine-needle surface,

spread 2 in. of needles on top of several inches of bark or chips.

Spread loose pea gravel about 2 in. deep. For a harder, more uni-

form surface, add

1

⁄

2

in. of fine crushed stone on top of the gravel.

You can let traffic compact crushed-rock surfaces, or compact

them by hand or with a machine.

Bricks and precast pavers

Take time to figure out the pattern and spacing of the bricks

or pavers by laying them out on the lawn or driveway, rather

than disturbing your carefully prepared sand base. When you’re

satisfied, begin in a corner, laying the bricks or pavers gently on

the sand so the base remains even

❶

. Lay full bricks first; then

install cut bricks to fit as needed at the edges. To produce uni-

form joints, space bricks with a piece of wood cut to the exact

joint width. You can also maintain alignment of the bricks with a

straightedge or with a string stretched across the path between

nails or stakes. Move the string as you proceed with the work.

As you complete a row or section, bed the bricks or pavers

into the sand base with several firm raps of a rubber mallet or

a hammer on a scrap 2x4. Check with a level or straightedge to

make sure the surface is even

❷

. (You’ll have to do this by feel or

eye across the width of a crowned path.) Lift low bricks or pavers

carefully and fill beneath them with sand; then reset them. Don’t

stand on the walk until you’ve filled the joints.

When you’ve finished a section, sweep fine, dry mason’s

sand into the joints, working across the surface of the path in

all directions

❸

. Wet thoroughly with a fine spray, and let dry;

then sweep in more sand if necessary. If you want a living walk,

sweep a loam-sand mixture into the joints and plant small, tough,

ground-hugging plants, such as dwarf mondo grass, in them.

Rare is the brick walk that can be laid without cutting some-

thing to fit. To cut brick, mark the line of the cut with a dark

pencil all around the brick. With the brick resting firmly on sand

or soil, score the entire line by rapping a wide mason’s chisel

called a “brickset” with a heavy wooden mallet or a soft-headed

steel hammer as shown on the facing page. Place the brickset

in the scored line across one face and give it a sharp blow with

the hammer to cut the brick.

If you have a lot of bricks to cut, or if you want greater accura-

cy, consider renting a masonry saw. Whether you work by hand

or machine, always wear safety glasses.

Flagstones

Install cut stones of uniform thickness as

described for bricks and pavers. Working out

patterns beforehand is particularly important—

stones are too heavy to move around more than

necessary. To produce a level surface with cut

or irregular stones of varying thickness, you’ll

need to add or remove sand for each stone. Set

the stone carefully on sand; then move it back

and forth to work it into place

❶

. Lay a level or

straightedge over three or four stones to check

the surface’s evenness

❷

. When a section is com-

plete, fill the joints with sand or with sand and

loam as described for bricks and pavers.

You can cut flagstone with a technique similar

to that used for bricks. Score the line of the cut on

the top surface with a brickset and hammer. Prop

the stone on a piece of scrap wood, positioning

the line of the cut slightly beyond the edge of the

wood. Securing the bottom edge of the stone

with your foot, place the brickset on the scored

line, and strike sharply to make the cut.

FLAGSTONES

❶

Set flagstones in place carefully

to avoid disturbing the sand base.

❷

Extend a straightedge over sever-

al stones to check the surface for

evenness. Tap high spots to level.

Brickset

Wear safety

glasses.

Scored line

Wood batten

Cutting

flagstones

To turn square

corners, align

the edging board

with a carpenter’s

square.

BRICKS AND

PRECAST PAVERS

❶

Begin laying in a corner.

❸

Sweep fine, dry sand into

the joints to fix the bricks

or pavers in place.

Scored

line

Brickset

chisel

Cutting

bricks

Wear safety

glasses.

Stepping-stones

A stepping-stone walk set in turf creates a

charming effect and is very simple to lay.

You can use cut or irregular flagstones or

fieldstone, which is irregular in thickness as

well as in outline. Arrange the stones on the

turf; then set them one by one. Cut into the

turf around the stone with a sharp flat shovel

or trowel, and remove the stone; then dig

out the sod with the shovel. Placing stones

at or below grade will keep them away from

mower blades. Fill low spots beneath the

stone with earth or sand so the stone doesn’t

move when stepped on.

Cut around stepping-stone

with shovel or trowel.

Remove sod

and soil.

Set in place, filling with sand

or soil to bed stone firmly.

Step-by-Step

Illustrations show process;

steps are keyed by num-

ber to discussion in the

main text.

127

Carpenteria californica

126

PLANT PROFILES

Recommended Bulbs

Callicarpa americana

A

MERICAN

BEAUTYBERRY

.

This native deciduous shrub

has a lax habit, spreading 4 ft. wide and tall. Tapered

dull green leaves line the slightly arching branch-

es. In fall, they give way to profuse clusters of vivid

violet-purple berries. Beautyberry is pest free and

drought tolerant. Irrigation may be needed during

periods of drought to maintain attractive foliage.

Thin one-third of the older branches to the ground

each spring to promote a denser appearance. Pages:

25, 55, 58, 86, 118.

Campanula

B

ELLFLOWER

.

A large group of useful flowering peren-

nials (a few are annuals) that vary in plant habit and

flower form. Plant them in flower beds, rock gardens,

or containers. Spreading types are useful as small-

scale ground covers. All grow best in partial shade

but can take full sun near the coast.

Campsis

x

tagliabuana

‘Mme. Galen’

‘M

ME

. G

ALEN

’

TRUMPET

CREEPER

,

or

VINE

.

This humming-

bird favorite is a vigorous deciduous vine with a stout

woody trunk, large compound leaves, and clusters

of salmon-red flowers from summer until frost.

Trumpet vine needs full sun, room to grow, and only

occasional watering during summer droughts. Once

established, it can climb and cover a trellis, fence, or

wall with no further assistance or care. It grows at

least 10 ft. tall and can reach 20 to 30 ft. Pages: 82,

92,

94

.

Carex planostachys

C

EDAR

S

EDGE

.

This species evolved to grow in the shade of Cedar

trees and as an understory plant in tall grass prairies

and meadows. It is drought tolerant and can grow in

a variety of soil types. It prefers well-draining humus-

rich soil, it will also grow in clay, caliche and lime-

stone-based soils. Pages: 42-43, 47, 52, 55, 63, 66-67,

83, 99,

Carex texenis

T

EXAS

S

EDGE

.

A common sedge in Texas, this sedge is a

good turf substitute with a tufted, grass-like appear-

ance. It is a suitable option for a ground cover with a

similar aesthetic to grass. Pages: 55, 58, 67.

Carpenteria californica

B

USH

ANEMONE

.

This evergreen shrub is grown for

its lovely, lightly fragrant white flowers with yellow

centers, which are displayed in late spring and early

summer against handsome, glossy, dark-green leaves.

Grows upright 4 to 6 ft. high and equally as wide.

Plant in full sun except in the hottest areas, where

partial shade is best. Page: 115.

Recommended Bulbs

Narcissus tazetta

N

ARCISSUS

Narcissus pseudonarcissus

‘Ice Follies’

D

AFFODIL

N. pseudonarcissus

‘Ice Follies’,

‘Ice Follies’ daffodil

Along with the golden yellow cultivars

‘Carlton’ and ‘Fortune’, this is one of the

few daffodils that does well in Texas. A

spring-blooming perennial bulb, it has

wide, ruffled, yellow trumpets fading

to creamy white. The extremely showy

blooms rise 1 ft. among blue-green

foliage and make great cut flowers for

display in the home. Daffodils require

full sun and good drainage. Divide

them every 5 to 10 years to keep them

blooming. Pages: 35, 52,

54

.

N. jonquilla,

Jonquil

This early spring bulb has heavenly

scented small golden-yellow flowers

above dark-green rushlike foliage.

Goes dormant during the summer,

re-emerging with fresh foliage in the

winter. It has no pest problems and

prefers dry summers. ‘Trevithian’ and

‘Sweetness’ are commonly available.

Pages: 61,

63

.

Narcissus tazetta,

Narcissus

This enduring perennial bulb blooms

between late fall and early spring.

Extremely fragrant white flowers open

in dense clusters on 1 to 1

1

⁄

2

ft. stalks

and make great cut flowers. The dark-

green foliage occurs in clumps 1 ft.

wide and tall, emerging in the fall and

going dormant during the summer.

‘Avalanche’ (p. 107,

107

) has creamy-

white flowers with lemon yellow cups.

‘Grand Primo’ (p. 91) is a southern heir-

loom with creamy white flowers and

pale-yellow cups; if unavailable, use

‘Avalanche’ as a substitute. Paperwhite

(

N. tazetta papyraceous

) has pure-white

flowers and can be used as a substitute

in the milder areas below Interstate

10. Tazetta narcissus are pest free and

require no irrigation. Pages: 85, 117.

Leucojum aestivum

S

NOWFLAKE

Callicarpa americana

A

MERICAN

BEAUTYBERRY

Carex planostachys

C

EDAR

S

EDGE

Leucojum aestivum,

Snowflake

This dependable perennial bulb

delights with clusters of tiny white

bells on 1 ft. stalks in early spring. The

healthy green foliage emerges in early

winter and goes dormant in summer.

Snowflakes are great for introducing

bright patches of early bloom among

ground covers and landscaped beds.

They grow in sun or shade and in moist

or dry conditions. This foolproof bulb is

pest free and requires no supplemental

watering. Pages: 31, 119.

Zephyranthes candida,

White rainlily

This hardy little bulb produces

dark- green grasslike foliage during

the cool months of the year. In

late summer the leaves often die

back in exchange for showy white

crocuslike flowers in the fall. White

rainlily grows less than a foot tall

and wide. It will grow in full sun or

partial shade and tolerates dry or

boggy soil. It has no serious insect

or disease problems and can be

used to naturalize in beds or as a

border substitute. Pages: 75,

77

.

Detailed Plant Information

Descriptions of each plant’s noteworthy qualities

and requirements for planting and care.

Choices

Selections here help

you choose from the

many varieties of

certain popular plants.

Plant Portraits

Photos of selected plants.

GUIDE TO INSTALLATION

Sidebars

Detailed information on special

topics, set within ruled boxes.

11

ABOUT THIS BOOK

Plant Profiles

This section of the book includes a

description of each of the plants featured

in the Portfolio. These profiles outline the

plants’ basic preferences for environmen-

tal conditions—such as soil, moisture, and

sun or shade—and provide advice about

planting and ongoing care.

Working with plant experts in Texas,

we selected plants carefully, following a

few simple guidelines: every plant should

be a proven performer in the state; once

established, it should thrive without

pampering. All plants should be avail-

able from a major local nursery or garden

center. If they’re not in stock, they could

be ordered, or you could ask the nursery

staff to recommend suitable substitutes.

In the Portfolio section, you’ll note

that plants are referred to by their com-

mon name but are cross-referenced to

the Plant Profiles section by their Lati-

nized scientific name. While common

names are familiar to many people,

they can be confusing. Distinctly differ-

ent plants can share the same common

name, or one plant can have several dif-

ferent common names. Scientific names,

therefore, ensure greater accuracy and

are more appropriate for a reference

section such as this. Although you can

confidently purchase most of the plants

in this book from local nurseries using the

common name, knowing the scientific

name allows you to ensure that the plant

you’re ordering is the same one shown in

our design.

Guide to Installation

In this section you’ll find detailed

instructions and illustrations covering

all the techniques you’ll need to install

any design from start to finish. Here we

explain how to think your way through

a landscaping project and anticipate the

various steps. Then you’ll learn how to

do each part of the job: readying the site;

laying out the design; choosing materials;

addressing basic irrigation needs; build-

ing paths, trellises, or other structures;

preparing the soil for planting; buying

the recommended plants and putting

them in place; and caring for the plants

to keep them healthy and attractive year

after year.

We’ve taken care to make installation of

built elements simple and straightforward.

The paths, trellises, and arbors all use basic,

readily available materials, and they can be

assembled by people who have no special

skills or tools beyond those commonly

used for home maintenance. The designs

can be adapted easily to meet specific

needs or to fit with the style of your house

or other landscaping features.

Installing different designs requires

different techniques. You can find the

techniques that you need by following

the cross-references in the Portfolio to

pages in the Guide to Installation, or

by skimming the Guide. You’ll find that

many basic techniques are reused from

one project to the next. You might want

to start with one of the smaller, simpler

designs. Gradually you’ll develop the skills

and confidence to do any project you

choose.

Most of the designs in this book can

be installed in several weekends; some

will take a little longer. Digging planting

beds and erecting fences and arbors can

be strenuous work. If you lack energy

for such tasks, consider hiring a neigh-

borhood teenager to help out; local

landscaping services can provide more

comprehensive help.

TEXAS AND OKLAHOMA HARDINESS ZONES

This map is based on one developed by the

U.S. Department of Agriculture. It divides

Texas and its neighbors into “hardiness

zones” based on minimum winter tem-

peratures. While most of the plants in this

book will survive the lowest temperatures

in Zone 7, a few may not. These few are

noted in the Plant Profiles descriptions,

where we have usually suggested alterna-

tives. When you buy plants, most will have

“hardiness” designations corresponding

to a USDA hardiness zone on the map. A

Zone 7 plant, for example, can be expect-

ed to survive winter temperatures as low as

0°F, and it can be used with confidence in

Zones 7 and 8, but not in the colder Zone

6. It is useful to know your zone and the

zone designation of any plants that you

wish to add to those in this book.

This is not an official USDA Plant Hardiness

Zone Map.

Indian grass

Gaura

Desert

willow

Soft-tip

yucca

Trailing

rosemary

Indian grass

12

TEXAS HOME LANDSCAPING

One of the rewards

of landscaping is

watching how plants change through the

seasons. During the winter months, you

look forward to the bright, fresh flowers

of spring. Then the lush green foliage of

summer is transformed into the blazing

colors of fall. Perennials that rest under-

ground in winter can grow chest-high

by midsummer, and hence a flower bed

that looks flat and bare in December

becomes a jungle in July.

To illustrate typical seasonal changes,

we’ve chosen one of the designs from

this book (see pp. 78-81) and shown

here how it would look in spring, sum-

mer, fall, and winter. As you can see, this

planting looks different from one season

to the next, but it always remains inter-

esting. Try to remember this example of

transformation as you look at the other

designs in this book. There we show how

the planting will appear in one season

and call attention to any plants that will

stand out at other times of year.

The task of tending a landscape also

changes with the seasons. So we’ve noted

the most important seasonal jobs in the

annual work cycle.

Seasons in Your Landscape

SPRING

Gaura

Trailing

rosemary

Desert

willow

Soft-tip

yucca

Russian sage

Red yucca

Gray santolina

Autumn sage

13

SEASONS IN YOUR LANDSCAPE

Spring

The spring flower season begins in March

in much of Texas and peaks in April

when the lawns turn green and the trees

leaf out. In this garden, spring offers a

refreshing display of new growth. Grass-

es and perennials are greening up, and

a thick profusion of new shoots sprout

from the cut-back crown of the desert

willow. A sprinkling of miniature blue

flowers on the rosemary and the gaura’s

pinkish-white flower buds garnish the

greenery. Do a thorough cleanup in

early spring. Remove last year’s perennial

flower stalks and foliage, cut ornamental

grasses to the ground, prune shrubs and

trees, renew the mulch, lightly fertilize,

and neaten the edges between flower

beds and lawn.

Summer

The summer garden is an explosion of

color. Nearly every plant is in bloom. The

nodding lily-like flowers of the soft-tip

yucca, the purple spikes of the desert wil-

low, and the coral red spikes of the red

yucca make a big show. The diminutive

blue, white, and yellow flowers of the

Russian sage, gaura, and santolina shout

less for attention but are no less pleasing.

Despite its name, autumn sage produces

a fine show of tubular red flowers. White

plumes wave in the breeze above clumps

of Indian grass. Water new plantings at

least once a week during dry spells, and

water older plants, too, if the soil gets so

dry that they wilt. Pull any weeds that

sprout up through the mulch; this is easi-

est when the soil is moist.

SUMMER

14

TEXAS HOME LANDSCAPING

Trailing

rosemary

Indian grass

Gaura

Autumn

sage

Fall

Fall brings changes in the garden as

well as mercifully cooler temperatures.

New for the season are the small laven-

der-purple flowers that almost smoth-

er the pale-gray foliage of the fall aster.

Deadheading has produced a full sec-

ond bloom on the desert willow, while

distinctive seedpods have replaced

bright flowers on the soft-tip and red

yuccas. Gaura and autumn sage con-

tinue to bloom. The Russian sage has

lost most of its tiny blossoms, but its

foliage is an attractive, wispy pres-

ence. The santolina has been sheared

to keep it tidy. You can leave grasses

and perennial stalks standing all win-

ter, if you choose, or clear them away

whenever hard frosts turn them brown

or knock them down. Toss the stems on

the compost pile, along with any leaves

that you rake up.

WINTER

FALL

15

SEASONS IN YOUR LANDSCAPE

Trailing

rosemary

Desert willow

Soft-tip yucca

Russian

sage

Red

yucca

Gray santolina

Fall aster

Winter

In winter, when much of the landscape turns

tan and brown, you’ll appreciate evergreen

plants such as the red and soft-tip yuccas,

trailing rosemary, and santolina. After a hard

frost, the Russian sage, fall aster, and gaura

have been cut back to ground-hugging

crowns. The narrow leaves and plumes of the

Indian grass remain a pleasing sight through-

out the winter, as do the branching forms of

the desert willow and autumn sage. In late

winter, cut back these two plants in prepa-

ration for vigorous new growth in the spring.

16

TEXAS HOME LANDSCAPING

Wax myrtle

Southern Arrow-

wood Little Joe

Polyantha rose

Pink skullcap

New Jersey Tea

Tropical

plumbago

‘Blue Princess’

verbena

New Jersey Tea

Pink skullcap

‘Bath’s Pink’

dianthus

‘Indigo Spires’ salvia

Landscapes change

over the years. As

plants grow, the overall look evolves

from sparse to lush. Trees cast cool shade

where the sun used to shine. Shrubs and

hedges grow tall and dense enough to

provide privacy. Perennials and ground

covers spread to form colorful patches

of foliage and flowers. Meanwhile, paths,

arbors, fences, and other structures gain

the comfortable patina of age.

Continuing change over the years—

sometimes rapid and dramatic, some-

times slow and subtle—is one of the joys

of landscaping. It is also one of the chal-

lenges. Anticipating how fast plants will

grow and how big they will eventually

become is difficult, even for professional

designers, and it was a major concern in

formulating the designs for this book.

To illustrate the kinds of changes to

expect in a planting, these pages show

one of the designs at three different

“ages.” Even though a new planting may

look sparse at first, it will soon fill in. And

because of careful spacing, the planting

will look as good in ten to fifteen years as

it does after three to five. It will, of course,

look different, but that’s part of the fun.

As Your

Landscape

Grows

AT PLANTING

THREE TO

FIVE YEARS

Wax myrtle

‘Spring Bouquet’

viburnum

Tropical

plumbago

Polyantha

rose

‘Blue Princess’

verbena

‘Indigo Spires’

salvia

New Jersey Tea

Pink skullcap

‘Bath’s Pink’

dianthus

17

AS YOUR LANDSCAPE GROWS

TEN TO

FIFTEEN

YEARS

At Planting

—Here’s how the backyard

hideaway (pp. 88-91) might appear

immediately after a fall planting. The

plants, of course, are small, though their

size may vary from what we show here if

you want to spend more for more mature

trees and shrubs. The multitrunked wax

myrtle looks like a bush rather than the

small tree it will become. The viburnum,

New Jersey Tea, and polyantha rose are

several years from filling out their spac-

es or your expectations. With a good fall

start and spring awakening, the perenni-

als will make a creditable show next sum-

mer. The first year after planting, be sure

to water during

dry spells and to pull

weeds that pop up through the mulch.

Three to Five Years

—As shown here

in fall, the planting has filled out nice-

ly. Limbed up to about 5 ft., the wax

myrtle provides shade for the bench,

while the nearby shrubs have grown to

make a comfy enclosure. The now well-

established perennials join the shrubs in

producing the blue and pink floral scene.

Evergreen foliage of the wax myrtle,

camellia, viburnum, and New Jersey Tea

make this an attractive spot through

the winter as well.

Ten to Fifteen Years

—Shown again in

fall, the planting has become even more

of a hideaway with the passing years.

The wax myrtle envelopes the site with

its presence and its shade. The shrubs are

fuller and larger, though kept in bounds

by judicious pruning. The perennials have

been divided several times since planting

to keep them healthy and tidy looking.

Their offspring may feature in parts of the

landscape elsewhere on the property.

Have you enjoyed

the shade and cool-

ing effects of a mature oak on a hot sum-

mer day? The many oaks native to Texas

are up to the challenges of twenty-first

century weather extremes. There is a sub-

lime harmony experienced from native

plants in your home garden, a well-timed

orchestra ebbing and flowing with sea-

sonal wonders and delights, something

to enjoy in each season.

Many popular garden plants originate

from Asia, such as azaleas, boxwood,

camellias, crape myrtle, heavenly bam-

boo, roses, Asian jessamine, cast iron

plant, and many others. To survive in

your garden, these non-native species

often require irrigation, fertilization, and

the application of pesticides and other

chemicals. Plus, they are likely to be

affected by the increased extreme freez-

es and droughts now common in Texas.

Some of the plants you purchase at

your local garden center are known to

“escape,” seeding in the surrounding

landscape. A key problem with some

non-native species is how they can

spread uncontrolled, becoming an inva-

sive pest, crowding out beneficial native

plants. In addition, popular non-native

species seem to be more susceptible

to failure from drought, temperature

extremes, and common garden pests.

So, what exactly is a native plant and

why do they matter? The benefits of

native plants start with being suited to

their local climate and conditions without

much assistance once established. In this

author’s experience, “low maintenance” is

a top landscape request; native plants are

known to be lower maintenance.

Native plants are suited to the local soil

types, annual rainfall, wind conditions, and

more. In addition, the local birds, insects,

and other wildlife have developed over

millennia to coexist and benefit from

these species and use them as food, shelter,

reproductive sites, and more. Plus, these

local creatures perpetuate the plants’ suc-

cess by pollinating them, dispersing their

seeds, and helping plants decompose.

As climate extremes increase, it is

more important than ever to be mindful

of which plants are best suited to thrive

in your home landscape. Texas has expe-

rienced epic droughts, including the

drought from 2011 through 2014 in which

many non-native species perished. This

was particularly true in Houston’s Memo-

rial Park, a 1,500-acre urban green space

treasured by Houstonians. Memorial Park

lost more than half of its mature trees,

many of which were non-native species.

Its subsequent redevelopment included

returning large areas to drought tolerant

coastal savannahs with native plants.

Texas and the rest of the Southern U.S.

have experienced savagely cold winters

and extended freezes. This author has

witnessed the high mortality rate and

damage to non-native plants following

prolonged below-freezing temperatures.

Some non-native plants may not appear

to succumb initially but decline and die

over a period of months or even a year.

Conversely, this author has been pleas-

antly surprised to see the incredible resil-

18

TEXAS HOME LANDSCAPING

A native plant like Texas sage, shown here, is

well suited to its local climate and has a high-

er chance of thriving than a non-native plant.

Eco-Friendly Plants

19

ECO-FRIENDLY PLANTS

A native plant like Texas oak supports biodiversity and is a food source for birds like the Carolina chickadee, shown here.

ience of native species through freezing

temperatures and even snowfall. Follow-

ing the severe winter freezes it is uncom-

mon to see the failure of native species.

In addition to being well suited to your

climate, native species are full of surprises:

offering flowers and fruit to attract birds,

bees, butterflies, and other attractive pol-

linators. Your native plant additions can

provide sustenance or even a temporary

home for migrating birds or seasonally

active pollinators. Unfortunately, com-

monly used non-native plants did not

evolve to coexist with your local birds and

other fauna. Therefore, local creatures

are generally not interested in non-na-

tive plants. These same non-native spe-

cies often repel local fauna and may even

be poisonous to them, as well as being

poisonous to you, your family, and your

household pets.

So, does this mean to jettison all your

non-native plants? Many of which may

have sentimental meaning, certainly not.

While a completely native home land-

scape is admirable, beautiful, and eco-

logically beneficial it is not necessary to

create a 100% native garden to reap the

benefits and enjoyment of their seasonal

wonder.

In his publication

Bringing Nature

Home: How Native Plants Sustain Wild-

life in Our Gardens,

author and University

of Delaware scientist Doug Tallamy, PhD

suggests limiting your use of non-native

plants to about 30%. If some of your

favorite plants happen to be non-native,

consider locating those near your home

where you can enjoy them most. It is sug-

gested you work toward planting 70% of

your property with resilient native plants,

proven to thrive in your region.

Once established, native plants suc-

ceed without irrigation, fertilizers, or

pesticides. Of course, during the first year

or two during the establishment period

plantings require supplemental watering

as well as during prolonged droughts.

Native plants can be the workhorses that

provide beauty and a wide range of ben-

efits your property. Placing native species

on the perimeter of your property, also

called an eco-tone, is where local birds,

insects, and other fauna can enjoy the

fruits, flowers, habitat, and security that

shrubs and trees provide.

If you had to plant one tree for the

most ecological impact and beauty while

providing food and shelter for native

creatures, what would it be? Ecologists

explain that the majestic oak supports

more biodiversity than about any other

tree species, hosting insects being born,

developing, and becoming a food source

for birds and other fauna.

As you now know, native plants

require less attention once established

than non-native plants. With all the time

you save, you can enjoy your garden

more and spend less time and money,

watering, weeding, fertilizing, and apply-

ing pesticides.

20

TEXAS HOME LANDSCAPING

Blue fescue grass, shown here, is a plant that can survive drought.

You have likely witnessed

the effects

and costs of climate change, with the

increase in extreme weather events

which can disrupt life as you know it.

Such as longer, hotter summers, power

outages, extended drought, followed by

more concentrated rainfall, with possible

flooding and erosion, increased storms,

high winds, and extreme freezing winter

temperatures. This volatility stresses the

power grid, can deplete water supplies,

and the deep freezes can even burst

pipes in your home.

The changes in climate of course also

affect plants in your landscape which are

limited in their ability to quickly adapt

to sudden environmental changes. The

USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map latest

data was released in 2023. With this new

Hardiness Zone Map, changes in climate

were reflected. For instance, some U.S.

regions are getting warmer, some drier,

and some wetter. Texas is generally get-

ting hotter and dryer in some locations.

Selecting the right plant for the right

location has the added benefit of reduc-

ing maintenance and increasing the

plant survival rate, saving you money.

The benefit of selecting an appropriate

plant is that it will reach its desired size

and shape without much pruning. This

reduces time, money, and the emissions

or pollution often required to trim over-

sized plantings. Not to mention a reduc-

tion of all the debris created.

As you have likely noticed, Texas is

experiencing both higher temperatures

and longer summers. This change is cou-

pled with increased intervals between

rainfall. Overall, precipitation is staying

about the same (in some regions) but

being concentrated in fewer storms.

Species requiring wetland conditions

(obligate wetlands) or favoring moist

conditions (facultative wetlands) may not

survive prolonged drought. Especially

when the drought is repeated year after

year. The same is true for species suited

to dryer upland conditions. These plant

varieties can also succumb to prolonged

drought and experience drought stress,

dieback, and even failure. Drought stress

increases a plant’s susceptibility to pests

and other diseases.

Deciduous trees and shrubs can shed

their leaves during a drought and, if

already established, will likely recover.

Evergreens, such as pines, if established,

will generally survive a drought. Howev-

er, smaller evergreen trees (less than 5–10

feet tall) and those recently planted may

not survive a prolonged drought. A long

period without precipitation may not

Climate Change Impact

21

CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACT

Mulching leaves with a lawn mower helps

your lawn retain moisture in hot weather. Put

mulched leaf litter underneath trees in the

autumn.

kill mature evergreens, but the moisture

stress caused by the drought can weaken

the tree. This can lead to their eventual

decline and failure.

In Texas, native pine trees weakened by

drought are likely to be attacked by a vari-

ety of pine bark beetles, which only attack

weakened trees. So, during a typical weath-