The Hertfordshire Way E-Book

The Friends of The Hertfordshire Way

• Herausgeber: Reardon Publishing
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2017

Seitenzahl: 201

Beschreibung

The 195 mile trail covers a large part of this beautiful, populous and rich county, incidentally one of the smallest counties in England, only 634 square miles. It is a county of rich contrasts. In the north-east there are wide open panoramas over low hills and farm lands as seen in the area around Barkway. Standing on Therfield Heath you can look down on to the flat plains of Cambridgeshire. Then in the south west there are the steep wooded escarpments of the Chilterns. The route visits ancient market towns, the Cathedral City of St Albans and countless picture postcard villages nestling in an intimate landscape of farmland and woods.
In 1801 Hertfordshire had a population of about 100,000; now it is well over one million. It has never been a heavily industrialised area but it has seen its own industrial changes from malting and brewing, plaiting of straw for hats, paper making, industries associated with wool such as fulling (cleaning the woven cloth) and silk mills. Today technical industries and service industries dominate the industrial scene.
A good introduction to the county, and how it developed from pre-history can be found in “The Hertfordshire Landscape” by Munby (1977) and “Hertfordshire, a Landscape History” by Rowe and Williamson (2013).
People have settled the area since prehistoric times. Along the very ancient Icknield Way there is evidence of many waves of people.
On Therfield Heath (see Leg 1) there is a long barrow of the Neolithic Age (2500 BC) and round barrows of the Bronze Age (1000 BC). There is evidence of the Beaker People in Hertfordshire. The hill forts of the Iron Age settlers gave way at the height of their power to the might of the Roman invasion. Many Roman roads go through Hertfordshire, e.g. Ermine Street and Watling Street, and our walk crosses the remains of the Roman town of Verulamium (St Albans).
In the Dark Ages Hertfordshire was part of the shifting boundary between the English settlers (Angles & Saxons) and the later invaders, the Vikings. It was a long and turbulent time before the country became united. A good novel, which covers this period, is the “Conscience of the King” by Alfred Duggan.
In the Medieval period the great abbeys were founded and one can still be seen in St Albans (see Legs 4 & 5). Many fine Medieval churches can be seen on this walk and short detours will be worth your while to seek out some of these (unfortunately due to the presence of valuable historic items most country churches are now locked on weekdays).
During the 16th to 18th centuries many country estates were established in Hertfordshire e.g. Hatfield House, Knebworth House and Ashridge House. Some of the houses have not survived but our walk will take you through parkland, which reminds the walker of those estates. Walkers passing through Ayot St Lawrence will be going through such parkland and Ashridge still has its great house. It was first a monastery, then a great house, now a management college.
The growth of London and the coming of industry saw some rapid development in the county in the 19th and 20th centuries. An example of this development was the Ovaltine factory at Kings Langley with the model farm to feed its need for eggs and milk. The factory and farms are all now sadly gone (see Legs 7 & 8).
No major rivers flow through the county, however it is still famous for the large number of chalk streams and their associated wildlife (the River Lee or Lea, a tributary of the Thames has its source just north of Luton, flows though the county and is navigable up to Hertford). The Grand Union Canal passes through our county on its way north west (see Leg 7). The railways opened up Hertfordshire for industry and settlement and such towns as Hemel Hempstead and Watford grew from several hundred people to 80,000 plus. Many of the great road routes, which fan out from London (such as the A1, A5, A6, A10 and M1) pass through our county. Finally we saw the first garden cities (Letchworth and Welwyn Garden City) and the new town of Stevenage. The great orbital road, the M25, cuts its way through the county (see Legs 7 to 9) not forgetting the electricity pylons, supplying our thirst for power.
Many famous people are associated with Hertfordshire. Samuel Pepys was a regular visitor who once when staying in Baldock noticed that the landlady was very pretty but “I durst not take notice of her, her husband being there”. Queen Elizabeth I, then a princess, was a virtual prisoner at Hatfield House when the Roman Catholic Queen Mary was on the throne. King James I had a palace at Royston (the start of our walk) from where he hunted on the lands of north Hertfordshire.
The so called Rye House Plot to kill King Charles II was hatched on its borders. Izaac Walton of “Compleat Angler” fame knew the River Lea well. The earliest Christian martyr, St Alban, was executed in Roman times at the site of the city bearing his name. Francis Bacon lived at Gorhambury (an estate near St Albans through which our walk passes). He is buried in the church of St Michael nearby. George Bernard Shaw made his home in Ayot St Lawrence; his home is now a National Trust property and is close to our route. George Orwell, Barbara Cartland, Charles Lamb and W. E. Johns lived in the county.
In spite of the development, most of your walking will be on rural pathways through fields, villages and woods where you can enjoy the peace and forget the might and noise of industry that remind you of the century we live in —— Good walking

Leseprobe

THE HERTFORDSHIRE WAY

A walker’s guide

Edited by Bert Richardson and Ian Hirst

3rd Edition

Produced by The Friends of The Hertfordshire Way Website www.fhw.org.uk Email [email protected]

First edition 1998

Second edition published June 2005 Reissued with amendments 2009

Reprinted November 2010

Third edition 2017

Publisher Reardon Publishing, PO Box 919, Cheltenham,

GL50 9AN, England, www.Reardon.Biz

ISBN: 9781901037241

© The Friends of The Hertfordshire Way

The right of The Friends of The Hertfordshire Way to be identified as the Author of this work has been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988

This book is dedicated to all those persons, known and unknown, who over the years have fought the good fight to protect and open up the footpath network in Hertfordshire. The paths that most of us take for granted would not be so freely accessible but for this band of dedicated walkers and campaigners who took on vested interests and won for us an excellent system of pathways.

There is still work to be done in our beloved Hertfordshire. This is a call to future generations to protect and seek to expand the network of footpaths so that they also leave behind a rich inheritance for future walkers to enjoy.

Walk not in vain But with hope. Hope that you will come again. Or that others will walk this way And share your joys.

Contents

Acknowledgements

Preface to 3rd Edition

How The Walk Originated

Hertfordshire Way Extension

Brief background to Hertfordshire

Walking the Hertfordshire Way

Travel and Tourist Information

Leg 1Royston to Wallington

Leg 2Wallington to Little Wymondley

Leg 3Little Wymondley to Codicote

Leg 4Codicote to St Albans

Leg 5St Albans to Markyate

Leg 6Markyate to Tring Station

Leg 7Tring Station to Kings Langley

Leg 8Kings Langley to Shenley

Leg 9Shenley to Cuffley

Leg 10Cuffley to Hertford

Leg 10ACuffley to Broxbourne

Leg 10BBroxbourne to Hertford

Leg 11Hertford to Widford

Leg 12Widford to Bishop’s Stortford

Leg 13Bishop’s Stortford to Hare Street

Leg 14Hare Street to Royston

The Friends of The Hertfordshire Way

The Hertfordshire Way Distance Chart

Acknowledgements

We would like to thank the following for financial help in funding this new edition and contributing to the purchase and erection of signs to show the route in a clockwise direction.

Major donors for the new guidebook edition and signs for the clockwise route

Bob Bemrose

Peter and Sue Garside

Graham Daniels

Alison and David Redcastle

Liz Deeble

The Robert Kiln Charitable Trust

North London and South Herts Ramblers

West Herts Ramblers

St Albans & District Footpath Society

Marion Wiseman

Ian and Val Hirst

Also to the many individual members who have contributed smaller amounts. Without those donations this guide book could not have been printed.

We would also wish to thank Celia Sanders for permitting us to use a selection of her watercolours from her diary “The Hertfordshire Way, A Journey” together with other photographers and artists for illustrations in this book. We also acknowledge all the leg wardens past and present who have contributed their time to this book both in writing and revising their part of the walk and for constantly monitoring the route.

Finally, a thank you to all who have enjoyed walking the route and who have sent their thanks and suggestions, some of which we have used in this Third Edition.

The following people have been involved in planning and revising the route since its creation in 1996.

David Allard, Michael Blackman, Anne Conchie, Allan Daniel, Graham Daniels, George & Joyce Faldo, Peter & Sue Garside, Mo Gilbert, Liz Hamilton, Bob Henbest, Eliza Hermann, Ian Hirst, David & Thelma Kealey, Hywel Morris, Ken Osborne, Chris Pagan, Bert Richardson, Michael & Nancy Scott, Carol & Harold Stokes, Peter Sutcliffe, Ron Tarling, John Telford, Angela Thomson, Roy Wheeler, Ian Whinnett, David Whiskin, Marion Wiseman, Dennis Zwolinski.

In Ashridge Estate (NT)

Preface to the Third Edition

In this guide there are a number of changes to the route from the previous edition which was published in 2009. We think they will give you further enjoyment of your walk. The changes are as follows:

Leg 12 There has been major changes to the whole of this leg so that we can avoid possible large housing development on the previous route into Bishop’s Stortford.

Leg 13 The new bypass proposed for Little Hadham on the A120 would have meant a surface crossing of this bypass. The new route will allow us to cross it by a bridge and will take us further away from the noise of the traffic.

Leg 7 and 8 Route changes to these legs have been made to avoid some access concerns on leg 7 and on leg 8 safety improvements by avoiding a narrow and busy road. Finally, we have made the guide more user friendly and refreshed the appearance with addition of a complete new set of photographs and sketches.

How the walk originated and has developed

In 1994 The Ramblers made plans to celebrate its sixty years fight to protect our national network of rights of way. Each area of the association was to plan its own celebration. The Hertfordshire and North Middlesex Area decided to do a long distance walk around the county. This was planned and organised by Bert Richardson who divided the route into 12 legs. Each volunteer leader walked their leg. In 1995, the Jubilee Year, over 60 people completed the walk. When the walk was completed a group remained interested in the route, and with the help of the local area of The Ramblers a committee was formed and the route was expanded to 166 miles in 14 legs. Twelve people started to survey the route and to write guides for each leg. Each leg was checked in the field by other volunteers and the whole work was brought together to form the first edition of this guide book. When you read it you will notice different styles of writing from each of the contributors. The background research in each leg was provided by the person(s) developing that section of the walk, with additional material by Bert Richardson. It was finally opened in 1998 after the guidebook was published and the waymarks were in position.

Hertfordshire Way Extension.

Since 2005 we have provided another way of going from Cuffley to Hertford as well as the original route. They are Leg 10A, from Cuffley to Broxbourne, incorporating a significant area of ancient woodland, and Leg 10B, from Broxbourne to Hertford, which takes in a large section of the Lee (or Lea) valley. Cuffley and Broxbourne are both accessible by train from Hertford (though from different stations in Hertford), so combining the two new legs with the original Leg 10 also offers a three-stage circular walk using public transport for access.

The Friends of The Hertfordshire Way

We are an independent organisation reliant on voluntary funding by members and friends sympathetic to our aims (see page 138).

Brief Background to The County of Hertfordshire

The 195 mile trail covers a large part of this beautiful, populous and rich county, incidentally one of the smallest counties in England, only 634 square miles. It is a county of rich contrasts. In the north-east there are wide open panoramas over low hills and farm lands as seen in the area around Barkway. Standing on Therfield Heath you can look down on to the flat plains of Cambridgeshire. Then in the south west there are the steep wooded escarpments of the Chilterns. The route visits ancient market towns, the Cathedral City of St Albans and countless picture postcard villages nestling in an intimate landscape of farmland and woods.

In 1801 Hertfordshire had a population of about 100,000; now it is well over one million. It has never been a heavily industrialised area but it has seen its own industrial changes from malting and brewing, plaiting of straw for hats, paper making, industries associated with wool such as fulling (cleaning the woven cloth) and silk mills. Today technical industries and service industries dominate the industrial scene.

A good introduction to the county, and how it developed from prehistory can be found in “The Hertfordshire Landscape” by Munby (1977) and “Hertfordshire, a Landscape History” by Rowe and Williamson (2013).

People have settled the area since prehistoric times. Along the very ancient Icknield Way there is evidence of many waves of people.

On Therfield Heath (see Leg 1) there is a long barrow of the Neolithic Age (2500 BC) and round barrows of the Bronze Age (1000 BC). There is evidence of the Beaker People in Hertfordshire. The hill forts of the Iron Age settlers gave way at the height of their power to the might of the Roman invasion. Many Roman roads go through Hertfordshire, e.g. Ermine Street and Watling Street, and our walk crosses the remains of the Roman town of Verulamium (St Albans).

In the Dark Ages Hertfordshire was part of the shifting boundary between the English settlers (Angles & Saxons) and the later invaders, the Vikings. It was a long and turbulent time before the country became united. A good novel, which covers this period, is the “Conscience of the King” by Alfred Duggan.

In the Medieval period the great abbeys were founded and one can still be seen in St Albans (see Legs 4 & 5). Many fine Medieval churches can be seen on this walk and short detours will be worth your while to seek out some of these (unfortunately due to the presence of valuable historic items most country churches are now locked on weekdays).

During the 16th to 18th centuries many country estates were established in Hertfordshire e.g. Hatfield House, Knebworth House and Ashridge House. Some of the houses have not survived but our walk will take you through parkland, which reminds the walker of those estates. Walkers passing through Ayot St Lawrence will be going through such parkland and Ashridge still has its great house. It was first a monastery, then a great house, now a management college.

The growth of London and the coming of industry saw some rapid development in the county in the 19th and 20th centuries. An example of this development was the Ovaltine factory at Kings Langley with the model farm to feed its need for eggs and milk. The factory and farms are all now sadly gone (see Legs 7 & 8).

No major rivers flow through the county, however it is still famous for the large number of chalk streams and their associated wildlife (the River Lee or Lea, a tributary of the Thames has its source just north of Luton, flows though the county and is navigable up to Hertford). The Grand Union Canal passes through our county on its way north west (see Leg 7). The railways opened up Hertfordshire for industry and settlement and such towns as Hemel Hempstead and Watford grew from several hundred people to 80,000 plus. Many of the great road routes, which fan out from London (such as the A1, A5, A6, A10 and M1) pass through our county. Finally we saw the first garden cities (Letchworth and Welwyn Garden City) and the new town of Stevenage. The great orbital road, the M25, cuts its way through the county (see Legs 7 to 9) not forgetting the electricity pylons, supplying our thirst for power.

Many famous people are associated with Hertfordshire. Samuel Pepys was a regular visitor who once when staying in Baldock noticed that the landlady was very pretty but “I durst not take notice of her, her husband being there”. Queen Elizabeth I, then a princess, was a virtual prisoner at Hatfield House when the Roman Catholic Queen Mary was on the throne. King James I had a palace at Royston (the start of our walk) from where he hunted on the lands of north Hertfordshire. The so called Rye House Plot to kill King Charles II was hatched on its borders. Izaac Walton of “Compleat Angler” fame knew the River Lea well. The earliest Christian martyr, St Alban, was executed in Roman times at the site of the city bearing his name. Francis Bacon lived at Gorhambury (an estate near St Albans through which our walk passes). He is buried in the church of St Michael nearby. George Bernard Shaw made his home in Ayot St Lawrence; his home is now a National Trust property and is close to our route. George Orwell, Barbara Cartland, Charles Lamb and W. E. Johns lived in the county.

In spite of the development, most of your walking will be on rural pathways through fields, villages and woods where you can enjoy the peace and forget the might and noise of industry that remind you of the century we live in —— Good walking

Royston is built at the base of the chalk hills. This scarp slope of chalk slowly dips under the London Basin to re-appear as the North Downs, south of London. On the top of the scarp the chalk is covered with boulder clay (which is why the footpaths in the country are sometimes sticky in winter) deposited in the last Ice Age.

Walking The Hertfordshire Way

General notes for the walker

In the guidebook the walk is described in an anticlockwise direction and it is waymarked in both directions (see the two distinctive roundels).

Sign posts at most road crossings mark the route in the anticlockwise direction.

The walk is conveniently divided into 16 legs which are between 9 and 15 miles in length. In addition to the written text each leg has a map of the route. The description for each leg has been written so that it is possible to follow the route without recourse to a map though we do recommend the use of Ordnance Survey Explorer Maps to give additional enjoyment to your walk. Also included in the text are notes of places of interest that you pass or can deviate to view.

The walk has been divided into legs for two reasons. Each leg gives a good day’s walking for the average walker. We have fitted the beginnings and ends of the legs into public transport, as near as is possible in these days of restricted public transport. This does not restrict the walker into a straitjacket. Individual walkers can plan their own approach to the walk. Because each leg is divided into numbered sections individuals can plan their own starting and finishing points and stop at a chosen mileage suitable to their inclinations. This walk is not a route march. We want the walker to savour and enjoy one of the finest waymarked long distance routes in England.

On this walk there are many fine villages, historic towns and other interesting tourist sites. For example, the remains of the Roman city (Verulamium) at St Albans and the beautiful Ashridge Estate (NT). There is also a fine selection of public houses for lunch time refreshment. Almost all the walk is on public rights of way (there are a few sections on permissive paths but they are clearly noted in the text). Hertfordshire is one of the more enlightened counties concerning public rights of way and most are clearly marked. The main problem is the non-reinstatement of cross field paths after ploughing or cropping or allowing crops to grow on them.

The second major problem is the ploughing up of paths on the edges of fields. Both these practices are illegal and should be reported. If you find these problems, or any other, on your walk please write to Hertfordshire County Council, Environmental Management Department, Rights of Way, County Hall, Hertford. SG13 8DN. State the date of your observations, what the problem is, and the place and grid reference, if possible.

Please note public rights of way are the Queen’s Highway and you have a legal right to be on them at any time. They have a legal status. It is important to remember that over the years many people have campaigned to keep these paths open for the public to enjoy. The main protector of these rights is The Ramblers. Membership of this group is recommended as it provides three walking magazines a year full of useful and important information including pages of bed and breakfast accommodation in Britain. You can also become a member of a local walking group.

The address is: The Rambler, 2nd Floor, Camelford House, 87-90 Albert Embankment, London SE1 7 TW

Respect for the countryside

Hertfordshire is a farming county so please close and fasten all gates which you have opened. Dogs must be kept on leads among stock and close to woodland where game birds could be nesting. When not on a lead they should be at heel at all times and not rushing about the countryside frightening the wild life and other walkers. Please do not leave any rubbish; take it home with you.

Safety

Safety is important at all times around farm machinery and industrial sites but two areas of safety are very important: roads and railway lines. Even the narrow roads, which we will cross and walk along at times, can carry fast-moving traffic, so be vigilant and obey the rules of safety. If you are walking in a party make sure the whole group is made aware of your approach to roads. Occasionally it is necessary to cross main line railways; do this with extreme care.

Clothing

This is lowland Britain and the most important item is footwear. Strong supportive footwear and thick socks are recommended. Hertfordshire is a county of clay and it can be very muddy in winter. Always carry waterproofs in Britain! It is also recommended that you carry a basic first aid kit.

The route

The route is meant to be followed by reading the detailed text. The maps included in each leg are for information as to direction and places and not for detailed route guidance. They will be useful for reference to Ordnance Survey maps.

Additional information in the text

In addition to the maps and the detailed walking text there is background information which is provided for those not familiar with the area and which we hope will increase your enjoyment as you travel through this beautiful county.

Maps

We recommend that you do the walk with the Ordnance Survey Explorer Map as your companion as this is the best scale for route finding. Landranger maps cover a larger area than the above map and are good for general directions but are more difficult to follow when walking, as their scale is smaller.

Public transport, refreshments and parking on route

Each leg has reference to public transport availability. The text also refers to places where refreshments can be obtained but do be aware that pubs and shops sometimes close with very little notice. We have tried to list car parking as three types: free, pay and street parking. It’s up to you to search them out! Cars: If you are using your car please park with due consideration for landowners and residents in the area. Do remember on Sundays not to use church parking spaces.

When using the guide book please note

Great care has been taken to ensure that the descriptions of the route are as accurate as possible but various factors affect the final printed word and individual interpretations of the written word do vary! Also features on the land can change, for example houses can be built or repainted and new hedges planted. Stiles and gates can rot and may not be replaced immediately; they can be replaced by kissing gates (Hertfordshire County Council policy).

Walkers near Clothall

Travel and Tourism

In previous editions of the guidebook we included a chapter on tourist information centres and public transport in the County. Much has changed in the last 20 years; the internet has made many printed sources redundant and we recommend that you seek up-to-date information online. At the date of publication of this guidebook there are tourist information centres in.

Baldock (01438 737 333)

Bishop’s Stortford (01279 715 001)

Harpenden (01582 768 278)

Hertford (01992 584 322)

Letchworth (01462 487 868)

St Albans (01727 864 511)

Stevenage (0300 123 4049)

Tring (01442 823 347)

Ware (01920 487 848)

Overnight accommodation (hotels, pubs and B&B) is available in all the main towns and some villages but we have not attempted to provide a list here.

There is some information about car-parking and public transport in the introduction to each leg of the walk. This was valid at the time of publication of this guidebook but you will be aware that availability of both car-parks and public transport can change as local authorities revise their budgets. What follows is some more general advice about transport.

Firstly, spend some time on planning. If you have two cars you will be familiar with the process of leaving one car at the end-point of the walk and driving in the other car to the start. With just one car you can – for most legs – complete the return journey to your parked car by public transport. Experience has shown that on several of the legs, travelling one way by bus or train has been at least as quick as using two cars with the need to shuttle between start and finish points, not to mention the need to find (and pay for) parking, so even for those who don’t yet have the benefit of free bus travel, there is some sense in considering public transport as an alternative to car.

Several people have done the entire route of nearly 200 miles using only public transport to get to the start of each leg and to return home at the end. The experiences of those who have done so lead to some general principles (since everyone will have a different starting point it’s not practical to give a stage-by-stage account from various places). There are three legs (7 Tring to Kings Langley; 10 Cuffley to Hertford and 10B Broxbourne to Hertford) where train is the quickest way – if not the cheapest - of getting between the end point and the start; all you have to consider is how to get to one end or the other of these legs. If you have the choice, it’s better to do the return journey by train so as to avoid the early morning rush hours with the associated cost (you can’t normally get discounted fares for early morning journeys). In addition, it’s worth bearing in mind that 8 of the 15 ‘nodes’ on the Hertfordshire Way are at, or close to, railway stations: Royston (legs 1 and 14), St Albans (legs 4 and 5), Tring (legs 6 and 7), Kings Langley (legs 7 and 8), Cuffley (legs 9, 10 and 10A), Broxbourne (legs 10A and 10B), Hertford (legs 10, 10B and 11), and Bishop’s Stortford (legs 12 and 13). So if you live close to a station on the relevant railway line, or can easily get there by bus, you should consider using the train for that leg. One ‘node’ (Wallington) is a problem as it no longer has a bus service, but it isn’t far to the edge of Baldock where there are buses and trains. Nevertheless, most people will have to use buses for the great majority of the time. The first thing, if you don’t already know them by heart, is to study the timetables for any bus routes that pass close to your house. Having done that, work out how best to get to one or more of the major bus interchanges in the county: Watford, St Albans, Stevenage, WGC, Hertford, Bishop’s Stortford. From there you will have access to the main bus network which feeds into the minor routes.