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John Pickles

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Beschreibung

Articulations of Capital offers an accessible, grounded, yet theoretically-sophisticated account of the geographies of global production networks, value chains, and regional development in post-socialist Eastern and Central Europe.

  • Proposes a new theorization of global value chains as part of a conjunctural economic geography
  • Develops a set of conceptual and theoretical arguments concerning the regional embeddedness of global production
  • Draws on longitudinal empirical research from over 20 years in the Bulgarian and Slovakian apparel industries
  • Makes a major intervention into the debate over the economic geographies of European integration and EU enlargement

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Seitenzahl: 555

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2015

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Table of Contents

Cover

Title Page

Series Editors’ Preface

List of Figures

List of Tables

Preface and Acknowledgements

Abbreviations

Part One: Articulating Capital in Global Production Networks

Chapter One: Articulations of Capital

Introduction

Globalization, Post-Socialist Liberalization and Structural Adjustment

Transformations in Apparel Global Value Chains

Consequences of the Global Shift

The Structure of the Book

Chapter Two: Economic Geography, Conjuncture and the Dynamics of Capital

Introduction

From Global Commodity and Value Chains to Global Production Networks and Beyond

Articulation/Disarticulation and Differential Inclusion in Global Production Networks

Towards a Conjunctural Economic Geography of Global Production Networks: Conjuncturalism, Context and Embeddedness

Conclusion: Post-Socialism and Conjunctural Economic Geographies

Part Two: Working off the Past: Context and Complexity in Apparel Global Production Networks

Chapter Three: Working in the Post-Socialist Apparel Economy

Starting Again with Labour

From State Socialist Full-Package Production to Export Processing

Post-Socialist Regional Divisions of Labour

Low-Wage Production and the “Sweatshop Trope”

Struggles over Work and Working Conditions

Conclusion

Chapter Four: Managing Europe’s Golden Bands: Trade Policy and the Regulation of Production Networks

Institutional and Policy Frameworks of the Golden Bands

Trade Policy in Apparel Global Production Networks

Global and Macro-Regional Trade Liberalization in Textiles and Apparel

Outward Processing Trade and the Origins and Reconfiguration of Pan-European Apparel Production

European Union Apparel Lead Firms and the Europeanization of Supply Chains

Conclusion

Chapter Five: Transformations, Legacies and Networks: The State and Market Globalizations

Introduction

Apparel and State Socialist Models of Development

State Socialist Institutional Legacies

Outsourcing and Delocalization from the 1980s to post-1989

From MFA Phase-Out to European Union Accession and the Economic Crisis

Conclusion

Part Three: Industrial Dynamics, Regionalization and the Conjunctural Economy of Global Production Networks

Chapter Six: Theorizing Transition and the Dynamics of Capital: The Diverse Trajectories of Post-socialist Firms

Introduction

Industrial Upgrading, Regional Transformations and the Diversity of Industrial Trajectories

Negotiating Assembly Production: Post-Socialist Downgrading from Fully Integrated Production to Outward Processing

Functional, Product and Process Upgrading and Market Proximity

Diversification and Own-Product Development

Low-Value Full-Package Domestic Market Producers

Full-Package Export Production and the Emergence of Regional Production Networks

Conclusion: Understanding Diverse Trajectories of Industrial Upgrading

Chapter Seven: Border Reconfigurations and the Frontiers of Capital

Introduction

Regionalization and Globalization: Apparel Sourcing, Trade Liberalization and the Spectre of China

Cross-Border Production, Geo-Economic/Geo-Political Integration and New Spatial Divisions of Labour

Emerging Cross-Border Economic Spaces and Production Regimes

The Limits of Cross-Border Production

Conclusion

Chapter Eight: Regionalization and the Palimpsests of Production: Delocalization, Legacies and Firm Differentiation

Introduction

Post-Socialist Transformations on the Periphery

Domesticating

Ishleme

The Post-Socialist Firm:

Ishleme

2.0 and the Return of Stitch-Up

Conclusion

Chapter Nine: The Cultural Economies of Post-Socialism: Ethnicity, Garage Firms and Regional Markets

Introduction: Embeddedness and Relational Economies

Firm Diversity, Local Embeddedness and End Markets

The Garage Firms of Haskovo

Regional Markets and Transborder Traders: The Dimitrovgrad Market

The Perfect Storm and the Future of Local Production Systems

Conclusion

Part Four: Conclusion

Chapter Ten: Conclusion

Working Beyond “Common Sense” in the Industrial Politics of Apparel

Diverse Trajectories and Industrial Upgrading

The Role of the State in Global Production Networks

The Apparel Industry and Regional Economic Futures

Appendix 1: Firm-level Restructuring in the Slovak Textiles and Clothing Sector, 2004–2013

Appendix 2: Key to Figure 9.14 Dimitrovgrad Market, 2011

References

Index

End User License Agreement

List of Tables

Chapter 03

Table 3.1 Forms of outsourcing in the ECE apparel industry

Table 3.2 The relationship between relative position and absolute growth of apparel exports from selected ECE countries to EU15 markets, 1995, 2005 and 2012

Table 3.3 Minimum insurable earnings by categorized occupation in Bulgaria 2013 (Leva per month)

Chapter 04

Table 4.1 Trade regimes, GPN structure, geographies of production, and employment consequences

Table 4.2 Four phases of quota integration into the Agreement on Textiles and Quotas

Chapter 05

Table 5.1 The development of the textile and apparel industry employment in Slovakia as a share of industrial employment, 1989–2012

Chapter 07

Table 7.1 The three most important 4-digit apparel exports from Slovakia to the EU15, 1995, 2000, 2005, 2010 and 2013 (% of value of total Slovak clothing exports to the EU; ranked by importance in 1995)

Table 7.2 Regional average monthly wage levels in selected branches of the Slovak economy, 2013 (in euro)

Chapter 08

Table 8.1 Economic involution and employment decline, Kardzhali, 1991–1998

Table 8.2 Change in manufacturing employment by selected branch, 1992–1998 (%)

Table 8.3 Diverse apparel firm types in south central Bulgaria

Table 8.4 Apparel employment by

obstina

, Kardzhali

oblast

, 1998

Table 8.5 Ethnicity and unemployment in Kardzhali

oblast

, 1999

Chapter 09

Table 9.1 Selected characteristics of Haskovo garage firms, 2008.

List of Illustrations

Chapter 01

Figure 1.1 Eastern and Central Europe.

Figure 1.2 The apparel production system.

Figure 1.3 Producer-driven and buyer-driven value chains.

Chapter 02

Figure 2.1 Two circuits of capital in sub-contracting apparel production networks.

Figure 2.2 Types of economic upgrading in global apparel value chains.

Chapter 03

Figure 3.1 Average net monthly wages, 2013, by country (in Euros). Various European National Statistical Offices compiled from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_European_countries_by_average_wage.

Figure 3.2 Clothing employment in East-Central Europe, 1989–2010. Elaborated from International Labour Organization databases.

Figure 3.3 Clothing employment as a percentage of total manufacturing employment in East-Central Europe, 1989–2010. Elaborated from International Labour Organization databases.

Figure 3.4 Share of EU15 apparel imports by macro-region, 1995–2012. Elaborated from Comext database.

Figure 3.5 Apparel exports from selected ECE suppliers to EU15 markets, 1995–2012. Elaborated from Comext database.

Figure 3.6 The changing position of apparel suppliers to the EU15 market, 1995, 2005 and 2012. Elaborated from Comext database.

Chapter 04

Figure 4.1 Unit values of EU apparel imports (selected countries in Euro/100kg). Elaborated from Comext database.

Chapter 05

Figure 5.1 The structure of coercive bargaining in the socialist enterprise.

Figure 5.2 The social wages and community investments of socialist enterprises.

Figure 5.3 Map of Slovakia.

Figure 5.4 Employment in the Slovak apparel industry, 1970–2011. ŠÚSR (various years)

Ročenka priemyslu SR

, Bratislava: ŠÚSR.

Figure 5.5 OZKN apparel factory in the mid-1990s.

Figure 5.6 Map of Bulgaria.

Figure 5.7 Apparel employment in Bulgaria, 1980, 1985–2012.

Figure 5.8 International Fair Plovdiv.

Figure 5.9 International Fair Plovdiv, International Exhibition of Textile, Clothing and Leather Goods, 2004.

Figure 5.10 Apparel machinery at the International Fair, Plovdiv, International Exhibition of Textile, Clothing and Leather Goods, 2004.

Figure 5.11 Student design work, International Fair, Plovdiv, International Exhibition of Textile, Clothing and Leather Goods, 2004.

Figure 5.12 Bulgaria domestic brands, Sofia.

Figure 5.13 Fashion show for domestic brands, Plovdiv, Bulgaria.

Figure 5.14 Transfer of branded design into domestic technical apparel and ready-mades.

Figure 5.15 Value added in the Slovak apparel industry, 1995–2011. ŠÚSR (various years)

Ročenka priemyslu SR

, Bratislava: ŠÚSR. Note: In Slovak

koruna

, 000s, value added data from 2008 recalculated from euros.

Figure 5.16 Employment in Bulgarian textiles and apparel, 1980–2012.

Chapter 06

Figure 6.1 Ideal-typical forms of firm transformation in the East European apparel industry.

Figure 6.2 Production line at a German-Slovak joint venture, Prešov.

Figure 6.3 Trajectories of transformation: Pierre.

Figure 6.4 Trajectories of transformation: Makyta.

Figure 6.5 Trajectories of transformation: I-Tran.

Figure 6.6 Trajectories of transformation: Lifeline.

Figure 6.7 Lifeline retail store in eastern Slovakia.

Figure 6.8 Fast fashion domestic orientation of Lifeline stock,

Figure 6.9 Ideal-typical forms of firm transformation in the Bulgarian apparel industry: garage firms of Haskovo.

Chapter 07

Figure 7.1 Slovakia's balance of trade in textiles and apparel with Ukraine, 2000–2012 (constant euros).

Figure 7.2 Slovak apparel imports from Ukraine, 1999–2012 (constant euros).

Figure 7.3 Slovak-Ukraine cross-border production complex.

Chapter 08

Figure 8.1 Apparel employment as a percentage of total manufacturing employment, 2012 (by Bulgarian

oblast

and

obstina

).

Figure 8.2 Absolute change in apparel employment by

obstina

and planning region, 2010–2012. National Statistical Institute, Sofia, 2013.

Figure 8.3 Quantity of apparel product sold by product category, 2008–2012. National Statistical Institute, Sofia, 2013.

Figure 8.4 Sold value of Bulgarian manufactured apparel by product category, 2008–2012. National Statistical Institute, Sofia, 2013.

Figure 8.5 Bulgarian manufactured apparel unit value of sold product by product category, 2008–2012. National Statistical Institute, Sofia, 2013.

Figure 8.6 Production networks in Artex Bulgaria's regional production system.

Chapter 09

Figure 9.1 Town and village population in Kardzhali by

obstina

(county), 1965–1992. Statisticheski Sbornik: Kardzhali 1996: 12–13.

Figure 9.2 The Mir apparel enterprise, 1994.

Figure 9.3 Apparel employment as a percentage of total manufacturing, Haskovo

oblast

, 1996–2012.

Figure 9.4 Apparel employment as percentage of total manufacturing employment, 2012.

Figure 9.5 Garage firms, Haskovo, 2013.

Figure 9.6 Ground-floor and second-floor garage firms, Haskovo, 2004.

Figure 9.7 Garage workshop delivery van, Haskovo, 2013.

Figure 9.8 Garage firms investing in housing, Haskovo 6, 2004 and 2013.

Figure 9.9 ‘Djenny’: garage firm branding, 2013.

Figure 9.10 Dimitrovgrad Market as transnational petty producer retail and wholesale network hub.

Figure 9.11 Clothing stall at Dimitrovgrad Market, 2004.

Figure 9.12 Clothing and logistics integrated in the Dmitrovgrad Market, 2004.

Figure 9.13 Dimitrovgrad Market, 2013.

Figure 9.14 Dimitrovgrad Market, 2011, stall layout.

Guide

Cover

Table of Contents

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RGS-IBG Book Series

For further information about the series and a full list of published and forthcoming titles please visit www.rgsbookseries.com

Published

Articulations of Capital: Global Production Networks and Regional TransformationsJohn Pickles and Adrian Smith, with Robert Begg, Milan Buček, Poli Roukova and Rudolf Pástor

Metropolitan Preoccupations: The Spatial Politics of Squatting in BerlinAlexander Vasudevan

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