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Articulations of Capital offers an accessible, grounded, yet theoretically-sophisticated account of the geographies of global production networks, value chains, and regional development in post-socialist Eastern and Central Europe.
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Seitenzahl: 555
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2015
Cover
Title Page
Series Editors’ Preface
List of Figures
List of Tables
Preface and Acknowledgements
Abbreviations
Part One: Articulating Capital in Global Production Networks
Chapter One: Articulations of Capital
Introduction
Globalization, Post-Socialist Liberalization and Structural Adjustment
Transformations in Apparel Global Value Chains
Consequences of the Global Shift
The Structure of the Book
Chapter Two: Economic Geography, Conjuncture and the Dynamics of Capital
Introduction
From Global Commodity and Value Chains to Global Production Networks and Beyond
Articulation/Disarticulation and Differential Inclusion in Global Production Networks
Towards a Conjunctural Economic Geography of Global Production Networks: Conjuncturalism, Context and Embeddedness
Conclusion: Post-Socialism and Conjunctural Economic Geographies
Part Two: Working off the Past: Context and Complexity in Apparel Global Production Networks
Chapter Three: Working in the Post-Socialist Apparel Economy
Starting Again with Labour
From State Socialist Full-Package Production to Export Processing
Post-Socialist Regional Divisions of Labour
Low-Wage Production and the “Sweatshop Trope”
Struggles over Work and Working Conditions
Conclusion
Chapter Four: Managing Europe’s Golden Bands: Trade Policy and the Regulation of Production Networks
Institutional and Policy Frameworks of the Golden Bands
Trade Policy in Apparel Global Production Networks
Global and Macro-Regional Trade Liberalization in Textiles and Apparel
Outward Processing Trade and the Origins and Reconfiguration of Pan-European Apparel Production
European Union Apparel Lead Firms and the Europeanization of Supply Chains
Conclusion
Chapter Five: Transformations, Legacies and Networks: The State and Market Globalizations
Introduction
Apparel and State Socialist Models of Development
State Socialist Institutional Legacies
Outsourcing and Delocalization from the 1980s to post-1989
From MFA Phase-Out to European Union Accession and the Economic Crisis
Conclusion
Part Three: Industrial Dynamics, Regionalization and the Conjunctural Economy of Global Production Networks
Chapter Six: Theorizing Transition and the Dynamics of Capital: The Diverse Trajectories of Post-socialist Firms
Introduction
Industrial Upgrading, Regional Transformations and the Diversity of Industrial Trajectories
Negotiating Assembly Production: Post-Socialist Downgrading from Fully Integrated Production to Outward Processing
Functional, Product and Process Upgrading and Market Proximity
Diversification and Own-Product Development
Low-Value Full-Package Domestic Market Producers
Full-Package Export Production and the Emergence of Regional Production Networks
Conclusion: Understanding Diverse Trajectories of Industrial Upgrading
Chapter Seven: Border Reconfigurations and the Frontiers of Capital
Introduction
Regionalization and Globalization: Apparel Sourcing, Trade Liberalization and the Spectre of China
Cross-Border Production, Geo-Economic/Geo-Political Integration and New Spatial Divisions of Labour
Emerging Cross-Border Economic Spaces and Production Regimes
The Limits of Cross-Border Production
Conclusion
Chapter Eight: Regionalization and the Palimpsests of Production: Delocalization, Legacies and Firm Differentiation
Introduction
Post-Socialist Transformations on the Periphery
Domesticating
Ishleme
The Post-Socialist Firm:
Ishleme
2.0 and the Return of Stitch-Up
Conclusion
Chapter Nine: The Cultural Economies of Post-Socialism: Ethnicity, Garage Firms and Regional Markets
Introduction: Embeddedness and Relational Economies
Firm Diversity, Local Embeddedness and End Markets
The Garage Firms of Haskovo
Regional Markets and Transborder Traders: The Dimitrovgrad Market
The Perfect Storm and the Future of Local Production Systems
Conclusion
Part Four: Conclusion
Chapter Ten: Conclusion
Working Beyond “Common Sense” in the Industrial Politics of Apparel
Diverse Trajectories and Industrial Upgrading
The Role of the State in Global Production Networks
The Apparel Industry and Regional Economic Futures
Appendix 1: Firm-level Restructuring in the Slovak Textiles and Clothing Sector, 2004–2013
Appendix 2: Key to Figure 9.14 Dimitrovgrad Market, 2011
References
Index
End User License Agreement
Chapter 03
Table 3.1 Forms of outsourcing in the ECE apparel industry
Table 3.2 The relationship between relative position and absolute growth of apparel exports from selected ECE countries to EU15 markets, 1995, 2005 and 2012
Table 3.3 Minimum insurable earnings by categorized occupation in Bulgaria 2013 (Leva per month)
Chapter 04
Table 4.1 Trade regimes, GPN structure, geographies of production, and employment consequences
Table 4.2 Four phases of quota integration into the Agreement on Textiles and Quotas
Chapter 05
Table 5.1 The development of the textile and apparel industry employment in Slovakia as a share of industrial employment, 1989–2012
Chapter 07
Table 7.1 The three most important 4-digit apparel exports from Slovakia to the EU15, 1995, 2000, 2005, 2010 and 2013 (% of value of total Slovak clothing exports to the EU; ranked by importance in 1995)
Table 7.2 Regional average monthly wage levels in selected branches of the Slovak economy, 2013 (in euro)
Chapter 08
Table 8.1 Economic involution and employment decline, Kardzhali, 1991–1998
Table 8.2 Change in manufacturing employment by selected branch, 1992–1998 (%)
Table 8.3 Diverse apparel firm types in south central Bulgaria
Table 8.4 Apparel employment by
obstina
, Kardzhali
oblast
, 1998
Table 8.5 Ethnicity and unemployment in Kardzhali
oblast
, 1999
Chapter 09
Table 9.1 Selected characteristics of Haskovo garage firms, 2008.
Chapter 01
Figure 1.1 Eastern and Central Europe.
Figure 1.2 The apparel production system.
Figure 1.3 Producer-driven and buyer-driven value chains.
Chapter 02
Figure 2.1 Two circuits of capital in sub-contracting apparel production networks.
Figure 2.2 Types of economic upgrading in global apparel value chains.
Chapter 03
Figure 3.1 Average net monthly wages, 2013, by country (in Euros). Various European National Statistical Offices compiled from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_European_countries_by_average_wage.
Figure 3.2 Clothing employment in East-Central Europe, 1989–2010. Elaborated from International Labour Organization databases.
Figure 3.3 Clothing employment as a percentage of total manufacturing employment in East-Central Europe, 1989–2010. Elaborated from International Labour Organization databases.
Figure 3.4 Share of EU15 apparel imports by macro-region, 1995–2012. Elaborated from Comext database.
Figure 3.5 Apparel exports from selected ECE suppliers to EU15 markets, 1995–2012. Elaborated from Comext database.
Figure 3.6 The changing position of apparel suppliers to the EU15 market, 1995, 2005 and 2012. Elaborated from Comext database.
Chapter 04
Figure 4.1 Unit values of EU apparel imports (selected countries in Euro/100kg). Elaborated from Comext database.
Chapter 05
Figure 5.1 The structure of coercive bargaining in the socialist enterprise.
Figure 5.2 The social wages and community investments of socialist enterprises.
Figure 5.3 Map of Slovakia.
Figure 5.4 Employment in the Slovak apparel industry, 1970–2011. ŠÚSR (various years)
Ročenka priemyslu SR
, Bratislava: ŠÚSR.
Figure 5.5 OZKN apparel factory in the mid-1990s.
Figure 5.6 Map of Bulgaria.
Figure 5.7 Apparel employment in Bulgaria, 1980, 1985–2012.
Figure 5.8 International Fair Plovdiv.
Figure 5.9 International Fair Plovdiv, International Exhibition of Textile, Clothing and Leather Goods, 2004.
Figure 5.10 Apparel machinery at the International Fair, Plovdiv, International Exhibition of Textile, Clothing and Leather Goods, 2004.
Figure 5.11 Student design work, International Fair, Plovdiv, International Exhibition of Textile, Clothing and Leather Goods, 2004.
Figure 5.12 Bulgaria domestic brands, Sofia.
Figure 5.13 Fashion show for domestic brands, Plovdiv, Bulgaria.
Figure 5.14 Transfer of branded design into domestic technical apparel and ready-mades.
Figure 5.15 Value added in the Slovak apparel industry, 1995–2011. ŠÚSR (various years)
Ročenka priemyslu SR
, Bratislava: ŠÚSR. Note: In Slovak
koruna
, 000s, value added data from 2008 recalculated from euros.
Figure 5.16 Employment in Bulgarian textiles and apparel, 1980–2012.
Chapter 06
Figure 6.1 Ideal-typical forms of firm transformation in the East European apparel industry.
Figure 6.2 Production line at a German-Slovak joint venture, Prešov.
Figure 6.3 Trajectories of transformation: Pierre.
Figure 6.4 Trajectories of transformation: Makyta.
Figure 6.5 Trajectories of transformation: I-Tran.
Figure 6.6 Trajectories of transformation: Lifeline.
Figure 6.7 Lifeline retail store in eastern Slovakia.
Figure 6.8 Fast fashion domestic orientation of Lifeline stock,
Figure 6.9 Ideal-typical forms of firm transformation in the Bulgarian apparel industry: garage firms of Haskovo.
Chapter 07
Figure 7.1 Slovakia's balance of trade in textiles and apparel with Ukraine, 2000–2012 (constant euros).
Figure 7.2 Slovak apparel imports from Ukraine, 1999–2012 (constant euros).
Figure 7.3 Slovak-Ukraine cross-border production complex.
Chapter 08
Figure 8.1 Apparel employment as a percentage of total manufacturing employment, 2012 (by Bulgarian
oblast
and
obstina
).
Figure 8.2 Absolute change in apparel employment by
obstina
and planning region, 2010–2012. National Statistical Institute, Sofia, 2013.
Figure 8.3 Quantity of apparel product sold by product category, 2008–2012. National Statistical Institute, Sofia, 2013.
Figure 8.4 Sold value of Bulgarian manufactured apparel by product category, 2008–2012. National Statistical Institute, Sofia, 2013.
Figure 8.5 Bulgarian manufactured apparel unit value of sold product by product category, 2008–2012. National Statistical Institute, Sofia, 2013.
Figure 8.6 Production networks in Artex Bulgaria's regional production system.
Chapter 09
Figure 9.1 Town and village population in Kardzhali by
obstina
(county), 1965–1992. Statisticheski Sbornik: Kardzhali 1996: 12–13.
Figure 9.2 The Mir apparel enterprise, 1994.
Figure 9.3 Apparel employment as a percentage of total manufacturing, Haskovo
oblast
, 1996–2012.
Figure 9.4 Apparel employment as percentage of total manufacturing employment, 2012.
Figure 9.5 Garage firms, Haskovo, 2013.
Figure 9.6 Ground-floor and second-floor garage firms, Haskovo, 2004.
Figure 9.7 Garage workshop delivery van, Haskovo, 2013.
Figure 9.8 Garage firms investing in housing, Haskovo 6, 2004 and 2013.
Figure 9.9 ‘Djenny’: garage firm branding, 2013.
Figure 9.10 Dimitrovgrad Market as transnational petty producer retail and wholesale network hub.
Figure 9.11 Clothing stall at Dimitrovgrad Market, 2004.
Figure 9.12 Clothing and logistics integrated in the Dmitrovgrad Market, 2004.
Figure 9.13 Dimitrovgrad Market, 2013.
Figure 9.14 Dimitrovgrad Market, 2011, stall layout.
Cover
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For further information about the series and a full list of published and forthcoming titles please visit www.rgsbookseries.com
Articulations of Capital: Global Production Networks and Regional TransformationsJohn Pickles and Adrian Smith, with Robert Begg, Milan Buček, Poli Roukova and Rudolf Pástor
Metropolitan Preoccupations: The Spatial Politics of Squatting in BerlinAlexander Vasudevan
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