Kitchen & Bath Residential Construction and Systems E-Book
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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Geisteswissenschaft
- Serie: NKBA Professional Resource Library
- Sprache: Englisch
This revised edition of Residential Construction and Kitchen & Bath Systems combines the thorough guides to typical North American building systems for homes for the kitchen and bath industry into one comprehensive, expanded volume, completely updated and revised throughout. Learning to "read a house" is an essential skill for anyone in the kitchen and bath field. This book provides clear, concise explanations of the home's structural systems and components, including the inner workings of the mechanical, electrical, and plumbing systems.
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Seitenzahl: 567
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2013
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Contents
Cover
Title Page
Copyright Page
Sponsors
About the National Kitchen & Bath Association
Preface
Acknowledgements
1 The Building Team
GENERALIST DESIGNERS
BUILDERS AND INSTALLERS
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
2 Codes and Permits
BUILDING CODES
PERMITS AND INSPECTIONS
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
3 Designing Healthy Houses
AIRBORNE HAZARDS
OTHER HAZARDS
A POSITIVE APPROACH TO DESIGN
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
4 Maximizing Energy Efficiency
AN ENERGY-CONSERVING BUILDING ENVELOPE
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
5 Using Natural Energies
HOME HEATING WITH THE SUN
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
6 Foundations
HOW DEEP A FOUNDATION?
TYPES OF FOUNDATIONS
FOUNDATION MATERIALS
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
7 Floors
WOOD-FRAMED FLOORS
LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL-FRAMED FLOORS
TRUSSED JOISTS
REMODELING EXISTING WOOD FLOORS
CONCRETE FLOORS
SUBFLOORS AND UNDERLAYMENTS
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
8 Exterior Walls
WALL FRAMING SYSTEMS
CONCRETE AND MASONRY WALLS
EXTERIOR WALL FINISHES
EXTERIOR TRIM
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
9 Doors and Windows
DOOR TYPES
DOOR STYLES
RELOCATING DOORWAYS
DOOR HARDWARE
WINDOW TYPES
WINDOW SASH AND FRAME MATERIALS
GLAZING CHOICES
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
10 Roofs
ROOF FORMS
ROOF FRAMING SYSTEMS
ROOF SHEATHING MATERIALS
INSULATION AND MOISTURE CONTROL
ROOFING MATERIALS
ROOF EDGES
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
11 Interior Walls and Ceilings
PARTITIONS
SPECIAL FRAMING
CEILING STRUCTURES
MODIFYING EXISTING WALLS AND CEILINGS
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
12 Interior Surfaces
BENEATH THE SKIN
FLOOR FINISH MATERIALS
WALL AND CEILING FINISH MATERIALS
TRIMMING THE INTERIOR
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
13 Heating Systems
COMFORT AND HEAT
HEATING FUELS
FORCED AIR HEATING SYSTEMS
HYDRONIC HEATING SYSTEMS
ELECTRIC HEATING SYSTEMS
ACTIVE SOLAR HEATING SYSTEMS
ALL-IN-ONE HEATING SYSTEMS
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
14 Cooling Systems
COOLING NATURALLY
COOLING WITH FANS
EVAPORATIVE COOLING
REFRIGERATED COOLING
SYSTEMS THAT PROVIDE HEATING AND COOLING
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
15 Maintaining Healthy Indoor Air
SOURCES OF INDOOR AIR POLLUTION
FRESH AIR THROUGH VENTILATION
VENTILATING ROOM BY ROOM
WHOLE-HOUSE VENTILATION SYSTEMS
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
16 Household Water Supply
SOURCES OF HOUSEHOLD WATER
DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS
WATER SUPPLY PIPING
WATER SUPPLY PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
UNSUITABLE WATER
WATER HEATERS
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
17 Drainage Systems
PARTS OF THE SYSTEM
PIPING MATERIALS
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
18 Kitchen and Bath Equipment
FIXTURES FOR THE BATH
KITCHEN EQUIPMENT
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
19 Electrical Systems
ELECTRICITY BASICS
SERVICE ENTRANCE
WIRE AND CONDUITS
COMMUNICATIONS WIRING SYSTEMS
ELECTRICITY FROM THE SUN
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
20 Lighting
LIGHTING BASICS
LIGHTING BY FUNCTION
DAYLIGHTING
ARTIFICIAL LIGHTING SOURCES
COLOR OF LIGHT
BUILT-IN LIGHTING
LIGHTING FIXTURES
LIGHTING KITCHENS
LIGHTING BATHS
SUMMARY
CHAPTER REVIEW
Glossary
Resources
BUILDING CODE ASSOCIATIONS
TRADE ASSOCIATIONS
Index
End User License Agreement
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Cover
Contents
Start Reading
List of Illustrations
FIGURE 4.1
Zones for Recommended R-Values
FIGURE 4.2
Fiberglass or mineral wool batt and blanket insulation is available in various thicknesses and widths, sized to fit between framing spaced 16 or 24″ (406 or 610 mm) on center.
FIGURE 4.3
Rigid foam insulation comes faced with foil or unfaced in thicknesses up to 6″ (152 mm). The total R-value depends on the type of foam and thickness.
FIGURE 5.1
The path of the sun in summer is higher than in winter. To get the most benefit from solar heat and light, a house should be sited with its long façade facing southward and sufficient glazing in this façade to capture the sun’s rays.
FIGURE 5.2
Direct gain is the simplest way to trap solar heat. A house designed for this approach has ample south-facing glazing to collect solar light and heat and a means of shading to block unwanted heat in warm seasons. In this illustration, the roof overhangs just enough to block summer sunshine while admitting lower-angle winter rays. A massive floor, such as a concrete slab, can absorb solar heat to even out day-to-night temperature fluctuations.
FIGURE 5.3
The optimum overhang for summer shading and winter solar heat gain can be obtained by multiplying the vertical distance shown here by the overhang factor in TABLE 5.1.
FIGURE 5.4
A sunspace traps solar heat by direct gain but supplies it to the house indirectly through doors or windows that control the heat transfer in or out of the living spaces.
FIGURE 5.5
The sunspace serves as a bright, cheerful entrance to a two-story colonial house. Tall vertical glazing faces south to capture the rays of the low winter sun.
FIGURE 5.6
Plants thrive inside this sunspace without heat from the house. The brick floor and rear wall absorb solar heat during the day and slowly release it at night to keep the interior warm.
FIGURE 5.7
The United States and Canada span several climate zones. Designing an energy-efficient house requires understanding how to deal with the assets and liabilities of the zone in which it is located.
FIGURE 6.1
A well-designed full-basement foundation includes thermal insulation on the inner or outer face and provisions to allow surface water to drain down the outside of the wall and into a foundation drain, which empties onto grade or into a sump pit.
FIGURE 6.2
A crawl space foundation typically extends just below the frost line. A continuous vapor barrier is needed to prevent ground moisture from wicking up into the space and damaging the wood floor framing above.
FIGURE 6.3
Piers made of concrete or concrete block may be used as the entire foundation or as supports within an exterior foundation wall.
FIGURE 6.4
A grade-beam foundation consists of a concrete beam at the periphery, which encloses a concrete slab floor, insulated to stem heat loss to the earth.
FIGURE 6.5
ICFs consist of rigid foam insulations and galvanized steel webs that hold the foam in place when concrete is poured inside, resulting in a system that provides both insulation and formwork.
FIGURE 6.6
CMU foundations traditionally contain mortar joints but also can be constructed by setting the blocks on each other without mortar, then applying mortar to the interior and exterior faces (surface bonding).
FIGURE 6.7
Foundations may be constructed with pressure-treated wood set on a compacted gravel footing. If there is no concrete slab floor, a continuous moisture barrier is necessary to keep soil moisture from entering the crawl space or basement.
FIGURE 7.1
A typical wood-framed floor consists of joists that span between the foundation walls and over any interior beams. Joists can either run over the tops of the beams or frame into them flush, attached by metal joist hangers. Plywood or oriented strandboard (OSB) subflooring should be applied with the face grain running perpendicular to the joists and glued and screwed into position.
FIGURE 7.2
Plain-sawn boards are sliced from the log in parallel planes, whereas quarter-sawn boards are cut perpendicular to the growth rings.
FIGURE 7.3
The lumber grading stamp tells the source, grade, moisture content, and species of the wood.
FIGURE 7.4
Some of the types of engineered lumber beams and joists currently available as alternatives to sawn lumber.
FIGURE 7.5
Bump-outs can cantilever out from the floor framing either parallel or perpendicular to the floor joists. The overhanging projection should not exceed one quarter of the bump-out joist overhang unless the system is engineered.
FIGURE 7.6
Lightweight steel joists are an alternative to wood. A wood band (rim) joist provides a way to attach wall sheathing and siding.
FIGURE 7.7
Several types of floor trusses make large spans possible in applications where intermediate supports below are not desired. Wiring and ductwork can run through the spaces between the web (triangular) members.
FIGURE 7.8
Existing wood floor framing can be strengthened by attaching sister joists, which ideally should run full length to the bearing points.
FIGURE 7.9
When holes or notches must be made in joists for wiring or piping, care must be taken not to weaken the structural capacity of the joists.
FIGURE 7.10
When insulating between floor joists, the insulation also must enclose any water supply piping and heating ducts.
FIGURE 7.11
Crawl space foundation walls can be insulated on either the inside or the outside face. If there is no concrete floor, a continuous moisture barrier is necessary over the earth and should extend up the walls to the sill plate.
FIGURE 7.12
Slab-on-grade floors are vulnerable to cracking and settling at the perimeter. The settling in the slab in the upper example can be prevented with steel rebars doweled into the slab and foundation. The best preventive for cracks near the grade beam in the lower example is an adequate base material, well compacted.
FIGURE 7.13
A membrane underlayment installed between a plywood substrate and tile finish material uncouples the two materials, which prevents possible cracking of the tile.
FIGURE 7.14
Concrete floors can be leveled by applying wood sleepers, shimmed (left side of drawing), or by a leveling compound poured over the surface (right). Sleepers offer other benefits, such as cavities that can contain wiring or insulation as well as a substrate for various floor coverings.
FIGURE 8.1
One log home system sandwiches rigid foam strips into grooves in the logs and uses compressible gaskets to make an air seal between the logs.
FIGURE 8.2
A typical timber-framed home structure clad with SIP panels, which provide closure and insulation while allowing the framing members to be exposed on the interior.
FIGURE 8.3
SIP panels sandwich rigid foam insulation between sheets of OSB or plywood with sawn lumber around the perimeters.
FIGURE 8.4
In balloon framing, the studs extend from mudsill to roof. The upper floor joists rest on a ledger notched into the studs and are nailed to the studs.
FIGURE 8.5
Platform framing allows the studs of each floor to be constructed sequentially. When the first-floor studs are in place, the upper-floor “platform” is built above them, followed by the upper-floor studs.
FIGURE 8.6
A typical exterior stud wall contains double studs at the top plate, corners, and openings. Headers above the openings are sized to support the loads from above. Corner bracing, required to resist seismic and lateral forces, is provided by OSB or plywood panels or by metal tee straps.
FIGURE 8.7
Framing a wall with steel studs entails setting the studs into the C-shape stud runners and attaching them with sheet metal screws.
FIGURE 8.8
2 × 4 studs with R-10 insulation between no longer meet the energy codes of many states. The R-value can be increased with 2 × 6 studs with R-19 or R-23 (left), adding a layer of rigid foam insulation to the original wall (right), or applying spray foam, as shown in Figure 8.9.
FIGURE 8.9
Spray foam provides a good way to both achieve high levels of insulation and seal walls against air and moisture penetration. The cavities can be partially filled (left) or completely filled (right) with the overflow material scraped off after the foam has set.
FIGURE 8.10
One way to insulate an existing home is to remove siding at intervals, drill holes in the sheathing, and blow loose fiber insulation into the cavities. The holes are then patched and the siding is replaced.
FIGURE 8.11
Wood strapping attached to the inside face of an existing wall provides a way to both add insulation and wiring to the wall without removing the wall’s surface. Metal straps are required where cables penetrate the strapping to protect the cables from nail punctures.
FIGURE 8.12
A typical CMU wall consists of blocks set in mortar or dry-set and reinforced to meet code requirements. Beams above openings and at the tops of walls utilize U-shape blocks, which contain mortar and steel reinforcing in their cavities.
FIGURE 8.13
Brick and stone veneer walls rely on a second wall for structural support. The backup wall may be studs, as shown here, or a structural CMU wall. An air space between the two walls and proper flashing are required to prevent water from penetrating into the inner wall.
FIGURE 8.14
All horizontal wood siding attaches with nails driven into the studs. The optimum location of the nails varies depending on type of siding.
FIGURE 8.15
Vertical siding is applied to a sheathed stud wall, over a waterproofing underlayment, such as asphalt-saturated felt. Boards are nailed to the top and sill plates and blocking is placed at a midpoint.
FIGURE 8.16
Shingle siding is nailed to a sheathed stud wall over a layer of asphalt-impregnated felt. Two nails attach each shingle close enough to the top to be concealed by the next course of shingles.
FIGURE 8.17
EIFS employ several layers—felt, rigid foam, fiberglass mesh, and two coats of elastomeric coating—to produce an insulated system that resembles stucco. Proper detailing is required for moisture control.
FIGURE 8.18
Inside and outside corners on wood siding can be trimmed with wood casings or metal corner covers.
FIGURE 8.19
Wood shingle siding can turn corners by abutting a casing or by mitering or weaving the shingles themselves.
FIGURE 8.20
Wood windows come with an exterior trim piece already attached (above), which is nailed to the wall during installation. Windows clad with vinyl or aluminum (below) typically have a protruding trim attached to the outside of the frame and a nailing fin that is concealed beneath the siding.
FIGURE 8.21
Installing over a rain screen drainage mat provides a continuous space for drainage and drying and eliminates the threat of trapped moisture between the siding and the substrate.
FIGURE 8.22
A rain screen drainage mat is stapled to the substrate, before siding is installed.
FIGURE 9.1
Doors are classified by type according to the way in which they open and close.
FIGURE 9.2
Single-acting doors are coded, or handed, by the direction in which they open into a room.
FIGURE 9.3
Some common door styles found in residential construction.
FIGURE 9.4
An entrance system combines one or more doors, flanking sidelights, and transom windows into a single frame. Many combinations and styles are possible.
FIGURE 9.5
A door butt is a hinge that fits into a recess routed into the butt edge of a door.
FIGURE 9.6
Two types of locksets are commonly used in exterior residential doors: mortise locks (left) and cylindrical locks (right). Interior doors typically contain cylindrical locks or latch sets.
FIGURE 9.7
The parts of a cylindrical lock with a lever-type handle.
FIGURE 9.8
As with doors, windows are classified by the way they open and close. Light tubes offer a means of getting light into a landlocked room where it would not be feasible to install a skylight or roof window.
FIGURE 9.9
A typical double-glazed wood window mounted in a wood-framed wall.
FIGURE 9.10
Clad wood windows have exposed wood frames and sashes on the interior and a weather-resistant cladding of PVC (as shown) or aluminum on the exterior.
FIGURE 9.11
All-vinyl (PVC) windows, initially used as replacement units in residences, are now popular in new construction as well, thanks to their low cost, easy maintenance, and high energy efficiency.
FIGURE 9.12
Windows with fiberglass frames and sashes on the exterior and wood interior are strong, maintenance free, and more dimensionally stable than PVC windows.
FIGURE 9.13
Some of the advances in high-performance glazing. The double-glazed window at top contains a low-e coating on an interior surface of one of its panes, which boosts its R-value from R-2 to R-3. R-values exceeding 5 are possible with windows containing low-e coated polyester films suspended between two or more panes (bottom) and the air spaces filled with a heavy gas, such as argon.
FIGURE 9.14
Replacing an existing double-hung window begins with removal of the old sash, stops, and interior trim to expose the pulley cavity. After removal of the pulleys, counterweights, and ropes, the cavity is filled with spray foam and the interior trim replaced. Exact measurements of the existing frame opening are used to size the replacement window, which is installed in the old frame. Vinyl replacement windows are made to exact sizes. Other types come various standard sizes.
FIGURE 10.1
Some typical residential roof forms.
FIGURE 10.2
Shed roofs can frame into the main roof of the building (top) or into a wall (bottom).
FIGURE 10.3
A typical rafter-framed gable roof. Lookouts (cross pieces set into the end rafters) support the rake (outside rafter) at the gable ends.
FIGURE 10.4
Shed roof dormers can spring from the ridge of the roof, as shown, or from a point downslope. The front wall can recess behind the wall below or extend out to the outer wall. Note that all framing members around the roof opening are doubled.
FIGURE 10.5
Framing a gable (doghouse) dormer begins with a double-framed opening in the roof plane. As with shed roof dormers, the front wall can sit back into the roof or align with the outer wall of the house.
FIGURE 10.6
The outward thrust of a pitched roof can be countered by collar ties between the rafters or by the attic floor joists, if care is taken to ensure structural continuity, end to end (left). The attic floor cannot be used for this purpose in attics with unbraced kneewalls (right).
FIGURE 10.7
A bearing wall under the ridge or ridge beam offers an alternative means to counter thrust in pitched roofs.
FIGURE 10.8
Prefabricated, engineered, lightweight roof trusses can be made in many shapes and span openings up to 60′ (18, 288 mm). They must be ordered to exact specifications, since they cannot be altered on the job site.
FIGURE 10.9
Hipped roofs can be framed with either rafters or special trusses, each with a different profile, as shown here.
FIGURE 10.10
Three ways to frame a cathedral ceiling.
FIGURE 10.11
A “cold” roof system contains the insulation in the attic floor. Vents in the soffit and ridge prevent moisture buildup in the attic. If a ridge vent is not feasible, other means of evacuating the air may be used, such as gable vents (inset).
FIGURE 10.12
Occupied attics and cathedral ceiling roofs require insulation around the heated space. Roofs insulated with closed-cell spray foam need no air space between the roof sheathing and insulation. A pathway from eave to ridge is required for other types.
FIGURE 10.13
Wood shingles typically are installed on strapping the same distance apart as the shingle exposure to prevent entrapped moisture on the undersides of the shingles. Saturated felt below the strapping provides a secondary moisture barrier.
FIGURE 10.14
Asphalt/fiberglass shingles detail.
FIGURE 10.15
Metal roofing, once used only in commercial and industrial buildings, is now a popular choice for residences.
FIGURE 10.16
Roofs must be properly flashed at points where the roofing is interrupted by a projection or abuts another surface. Some critical locations are shown here.
FIGURE 11.1
A typical interior wood stud partition. If the section can be assembled on the floor, then tilted up, the bottom plate is simply nailed to the studs. If not, the bottom plate is first nailed down, followed by the studs, one by one.
FIGURE 11.2
Stud walls in bathrooms require horizontal blocking to support fixtures, grab bars, and around openings. It is a good idea to build in blocking for grab bars in case they need to be installed later.
FIGURE 11.3
New stud walls in kitchens should contain horizontal blocking for attaching wall and base cabinets.
FIGURE 11.4
Steel stud partitions consist of C-shape studs that nest into C-shape tracks screwed to the floor and ceiling.
FIGURE 11.5
Track sections frame a door opening. The head track is cut longer, the flanges are cut, and a section is bent down to attach to the vertical, as shown below. Wood stud jambs are then added as an attachment for door frames.
FIGURE 11.6
Three ways to increase the sound-dampening capability of a stud wall.
FIGURE 11.7
Whirlpools (spas) typically sit on single or double knee walls with an access to the equipment provided at one end.
FIGURE 11.8
A site-built shower can surround a tiled floor or prefabricated shower base, as shown.
FIGURE 11.9
Studs enclosing a prefabricated shower unit must be coordinated with the requirements of the manufacturer’s specifications.
FIGURE 11.10
An adjustable metal floor and ceiling track provides the base for curved walls. The track is simply nailed to the floor and ceiling in the desired curve, then the studs are installed.
FIGURE 11.11
Roman arches are half circles with the center point along the spring line. The center point for segmented arches lies below the spring line—the lower the point, the flatter the arch. Elliptical arches can be flat or rise as high as desired.
FIGURE 11.12
One way to frame an arch into an opening using plywood sides and 2 × 4 spacers.
FIGURE 11.13
A ceiling supported by the walls is framed by attaching ledgers to the long walls and face framing the joists to the ledgers with framing clips.
FIGURE 11.14
Joists for a suspended ceiling are hung from short lengths of 2 × 4 or 1 × 6 lumber attached to the framing above.
FIGURE 11.15
A soffit above a wall cabinet can be flush with the cabinet face or extend outward to create a niche for lighting.
FIGURE 11.16
For a variety of reasons, existing walls often must be furred (strapped) out. The method shown here entails stripping off the old wall finish and attaching furring strips to the framing. Shims between the furring and studs adjust for out-of-plumb or irregular studs.
FIGURE 11.17
Adding sister studs onto the existing studs can even out the wall substrate and/or provide needed additional space or piping, insulation, or ducts.
FIGURE 12.1
Traditional plaster is troweled onto gypsum lath or metal lath in three coats, resulting in a hard, even surface that takes any finish coating.
FIGURE 12.2
Drywall panels can install vertically or horizontally. Joints are taped with paper or fiberglass embedded in joint drywall compound. More compound fills screw and nail recesses and other defects. A variety of metal and plastic trim pieces are available for corners and joints.
FIGURE 12.3
Backerboard is cut by scoring and snapping. Then it is nailed or screwed to the studs and the joints are taped with fiberglass tape. Thinsetting compound bonds tile to the backerboard. Cement backerboard (gray) is shown at left; gypsum backerboard (green) is at lower right.
FIGURE 12.4
The mortar bed of a mudset installation can provide the necessary slope for a tile floor in a shower. The tile outside the shower can be thinset over a membrane underlayment.
FIGURE 12.5
Resilient flooring installs in troweled-on adhesive over a suitable substrate. Note that the joints of the underlayment panels do not coincide with those of the subfloor.
FIGURE 12.6
Glue-down wood flooring is applied to a plywood substrate with adhesive. If the floor is concrete as shown, 2 × 4 sleepers support the subfloor. A poly vapor barrier between the concrete and sleepers keeps moisture out of the wood above.
FIGURE 12.7
Wood strip flooring is blind-nailed through the tongue of each strip (inset) through the subfloor. For a squeak-free installation, the nails should penetrate into the floor joists. The position of the joists can be determined from the nailing pattern on the subfloor, then chalked onto the felt moisture barrier. A ½″ (19 mm) gap at the walls allows the flooring to expand and contract.
FIGURE 12.8
Laminate flooring strips are glued only on the edges and float on the floor underlayment.
FIGURE 12.9
A wainscot using traditional stile and rail paneling. Solid panels with beveled edges fit into the frame work.
FIGURE 12.10
A wainscot made up of tongue-and-groove beadboard. If the beadboard is installed vertically, as shown, horizontal strapping is required to attach it to the wall surface.
FIGURE 12.11
Moldings serve many purposes, making transitions between finish materials from the floor to the ceiling as well as around windows, doors, and wainscoting.
FIGURE 12.12
Wood moldings come in many profiles. Pine is commonly stocked, but other species are available on order.
FIGURE 12.13
Moldings with complex surface designs, such as these cornice molds, are made from various plastic and cementitious materials that, unlike wood, don’t shrink or crack.
FIGURE 13.1
Most people feel comfortable in the purple-colored zone of the graph. With ventilation, comfort is possible at higher air temperatures (blue zone). Similarly, solar heat extends the comfort zone downward (orange) to about 46° Fahrenheit.
FIGURE 13.2
The choice of upflow or downflow furnace depends on its location. An upflow furnace is typically in the basement and supplies heated air overhead to the floors above. A downflow furnace is located above the floors it serves.
FIGURE 13.3
A forced air heating system supplies warm air through diffusers along the periphery of the house. Cool air returns to the furnace through a return vent typically located in a hallway.
FIGURE 13.4
Diffusers (registers) for air heating and cooling systems come in many shapes and sizes and can be located in any interior surface.
FIGURE 13.5
An oil-fired boiler and its components.
FIGURE 13.6
A series perimeter loop (A) is the simplest hydronic distribution system but not the best, since diffusers at the end of the loop get the coolest water. This defect is overcome by adding valves, in a one-pipe direct return system (B), and improved more in a two-pipe reverse return system (C), with boiler-temperature water supplied to each diffuser and cooler water returning via a separate line.
FIGURE 13.7
A simple radiant floor heating system delivers heated water to the floor through one loop and returns cooled water to the boiler through another loop.
FIGURE 13.8
Tubing for radiant floor systems can be embedded in a concrete slab or attached to the underside of a wood floor. Metal plates around the tubing help transfer heat from the tube to the wood.
FIGURE 13.9
A fin tube diffuser contains a series of closely spaced metal plates that transfer heat from the supply pipe (or wire, with electric systems) to the room via convection.
FIGURE 13.10
This active solar space-heating system pumps heated water from the roof-mounted collector into a storage tank in the basement. The water transfers its heat to air in a heat exchanger, which then circulates the air through ducts into the interior. If the water in the tank is not hot enough, water from the domestic water heater is pumped to the heat exchanger to augment it.
FIGURE 13.11
A unit heater provides a way to heat an addition without altering the central heating system. The gas unit shown circulates warmed air around the heating chamber inside. Combustion air enters and exits through the wall without mixing with the room air.
FIGURE 14.1
A house designed to maximize the cooling potential of natural ventilation contains openings situated to promote the flow of air through the entire interior similar to traditional southern houses, such as shown here. Note the openings in the hallway walls and the belvedere on the roof.
FIGURE 14.2
Ceiling fans provide a low-tech means of cooling by ventilation.
FIGURE 14.3
A whole-house fan can be installed in various ways. Located in the gable end of the attic (top picture), the fan draws inside air from a vent in the attic floor. Mounted in the attic floor, the fan can exhaust air through a belvedere (middle) or gable vents (bottom).
FIGURE 14.4
Direct evaporative coolers pull hot outside air through a wetted pad and deliver cooled, humidified air to the interior. This method works best in the hot-dry climates of the U.S. Southwest.
FIGURE 14.5
Indirect evaporative coolers do not mix the air cooled by evaporation with the air supplied to the interior. This feature makes them viable for humid regions.
FIGURE 14.6
Because cooler air seeks a lower level, mounting a room air conditioner high in the wall is more effective than placing it in a low window opening.
FIGURE 14.7
In a split air conditioning system, the compressor is located outdoors and is connected by piping to fan-coil diffusers in the walls of the rooms.
FIGURE 14.8
A ducted air conditioning system with the ducts and diffusers overhead is the best choice for homes in cooling-dominant regions. In heating-dominant regions, the ducts and diffusers are more efficient in the floor.
FIGURE 14.9
Because the ground is warmer than the air in winter and cooler in summer, it can be utilized for heating or cooling in GCHPs. Water circulates through piping buried in the ground, extracting heat from the earth in winter and expelling it back into the earth during the cooling season.
FIGURE 14.10
GWHPs extract heating or cooling from water by piping that extends vertically into a pond or well.
FIGURE 15.1
Room exhaust fans can mount in walls or ceilings. Ducts, when necessary, should be as short and direct as possible.
FIGURE 15.2
A recirculating range hood (left) returns filtered air to the room and should be used only in cases where it is impossible to provide a vented model (right), which exhausts air to the outside.
FIGURE 15.3
Typical range hood installation. Note that for best performance, the hood is wider than the range.
FIGURE 15.4
A microwave oven with an exhaust fan in the bottom can serve as both a cooking and a ventilating appliance. A recirculating model is shown here; however, models that vent to the outside are preferred.
FIGURE 15.5
Vented ranges contain fans that exhaust cooking gases either through the deck or a vertical panel, which is more effective.
FIGURE 15.6
Vented ranges can exhaust through a rear wall or floor. Ducting should be short and direct.
FIGURE 15.7
The best route for exhaust ductwork is the shortest path with the fewest turns. The structure may be the deciding factor for the best route. For example, ducting through the floor (center) is possible only if the joists run parallel to the ducts. Otherwise, the duct must run below the joists.
FIGURE 15.8
In a multipoint ventilation system there are no individual kitchen and bath exhaust fans. Instead, grilles in these rooms duct stale air to a central exhaust fan, usually in the attic. Makeup fresh air is introduced through self-balancing air inlets in the walls.
FIGURE 15.9
A whole-house ventilation system can be integrated with a forced-air heating system by combining one or more exhaust fans with a fresh air intake to the furnace fan.
FIGURE 15.10
An HRV or ERV supplies fresh air to the interior and exhausts stale air to the outdoors. Coils inside the unit indirectly capture some of the heat from exhaust air to warm incoming fresh air.
FIGURE 16.1
The water meter and main shutoff valve usually are located in the front yard near the property line.
FIGURE 16.2
Rural houses often depend on wells for their water. Dug wells are feasible where the water table is consistently within 15′ to 30′ (4.575 to 9.150 m) of the surface. Drilled wells are necessary when reliable water is deeper down, often hundreds of feet.
FIGURE 16.3
In a traditional water distribution system, branch pipes tap off the central supply pipe to bring hot and cold water to each fixture.
FIGURE 16.4
Manifold water distribution systems make a direct home run of hot- and cold-water lines to each fixture from a central distribution manifold via flexible plastic piping.
FIGURE 16.5
Four materials make up the bulk of most residential water supply piping. Copper still reigns as the most popular for new construction, while PEX is gaining due to its flexibility and ease of installation.
FIGURE 16.6
Two remedies for water hammer. The expansion device (left) allows the pipe itself to expand and contract to absorb the sudden differences in water pressure. The air chamber (right) absorbs the shock with the expansion and contraction of the air.
FIGURE 16.7
A gas tank-type water heater requires a gas supply and a flue that expels exhaust to the exterior.
FIGURE 16.8
An electric tank-type water heater.
FIGURE 16.9
Electrically powered HPWHs supply hot water at one half to one third of the energy used by a standard electric water heater.
FIGURE 16.10
Tankless water heaters heat water only when it is being used, thus saving the energy lost through storage and distribution piping. They are good choices for fixtures far from the home’s central water heater and in some cases as substitutes for a central heater.
FIGURE 16.11
Simplified operation of an open-loop active solar water heating system. A pump circulates water from collector to tank and, triggered by the sensor, drains the water back into the tank at night to prevent freezing.
FIGURE 17.1
A typical P-trap with the maximum permissible length of trap arm.
FIGURE 17.2
A typical drain assembly for a sink with a P-trap.
FIGURE 17.3
A typical DWV system for a multistory house.
FIGURE 17.4
A typical three-fixture DWV system. The maximum distance between a trap and the vent pipe depends on the diameter of the trap arm piping.
FIGURE 17.5
An island sink can be wet-vented if the trap runs into a vertical pipe at least twice the diameter of the trap before connecting with the main drain and vent piping.
FIGURE 17.6
A bow vent near the sink is another way to vent an island sink, but it consumes a lot of cabinet space.
FIGURE 17.7
An automatic one-way check valve that admits make-up air into the system is the simplest and most space-saving solution, if acceptable to the local plumbing inspector.
FIGURE 17.8
Cast iron pipe sections initially were joined by molten lead poured into the hub of one section. Oakum packed into the joint kept the lead from running down into the pipe (left). Compressible gaskets (center) can substitute for the lead in a hub-and-spigot joint. Compressible gaskets with steel clamps (right) can join straight pipe sections, eliminating the space-hogging hub.
FIGURE 17.9
Plastic pipe is joined by coating both surfaces of the joint with the appropriate solvent, then quickly inserting the pipe into the hub.
FIGURE 18.1
Gravity toilets rely on water at a higher level to flush out waste in the bowl below. The modern water-saving toilet is the result of several years of evolution, resulting in a fixture that efficiently flushes with 1.6 gallons (3.8 L) or less.
FIGURE 18.2
A sewage ejector pump serves a toilet installed below the waste line of a house. The pump grinds waste into slurry, then pumps it up to the waste line. The device can mount in a pit below the floor, as shown, or be set behind the toilet, if the toilet is installed on a platform above the floor.
FIGURE 18.3
Fittings and installation for a typical tub/shower unit.
FIGURE 18.4
Fittings and installation for a typical shower.
FIGURE 18.5
Tubs equipped with doors in the side make it easier for persons with special needs to get in and out of the fixture.
FIGURE 18.6
True whirlpool tubs jet the water into a whirlpool pattern, as shown at left. However, this is just one option. Other units create different patterns of turbulence by varying the arrangement of the nozzles.
FIGURE 18.7
Whirlpools and spas typically mount on framed platforms. A removable panel must always be provided to access the pump.
FIGURE 18.8
Saunas can be designed in any size to accommodate any number of users. Small wall-mounted heaters can heat a small sauna, while a larger floor-mounted unit suits a larger one. Water may be carried in or obtained from a cold-water spout installed in the sauna.
FIGURE 18.9
A kitchen sink installed with a disposer. When installed below a double sink, the disposer is located below the bowl farthest away from the drain line.
FIGURE 18.10
A dishwasher typically mounts under the countertop next to the sink so that the drain hose from the dishwasher can connect into the trap from the sink. Some codes require an air gap fitting on the high end of the waste hose loop to prevent siphoning.
FIGURE 19.1
Electricity enters a home from the transformer on the nearest power pole via overhead or underground cables. After passing through the meter, it flows to the service panel, which distributes power to various circuits.
FIGURE 19.2
All electrical circuits require a power source, a positive (hot) wire, a negative (neutral) wire, an appliance that draws current, and a switch to control the flow of electricity through the circuit.
FIGURE 19.3
Fuse boxes provided power distribution and overload protection in older houses. When a circuit was overcharged or shorted, the fuse blew, requiring replacement. Sometimes the occupant, lacking a replacement fuse, placed a penny behind the blown fuse, thus causing a fire danger.
FIGURE 19.4
A typical 100a main service entrance panel. Remodeling or adding to a home may require more circuits than are available as spares, in which case a branch panel can be added, tapping off two breakers in the main panel.
FIGURE 19.5
Many types of cable and conduit are available for residential applications. The gauge and type of cable is noted on the package and/or on the cable itself. NM is used in most indoor circuits. Surface-mounted conduit (bottom) with outlets spaced 6″ (152 mm) apart is a good way to ensure enough outlets where they are needed above kitchen countertops.
FIGURE 19.6
Plastic wire nuts are a quick and convenient way to join wires. They come in various sizes and colors. Electrical codes prohibit connections outside of accessible junction boxes.
FIGURE 19.7
Switches come in a wide variety to shut circuits on and off as well as to dim the power to lights. A single-pole switch has two terminals to control a single circuit. A three-way switch has three terminals, one marked “COM, ” which controls a circuit from two places. Double-pole switches with four terminals control 240V appliances. Four-way switches also have four terminals, for control of a device from three locations.
FIGURE 19.8
The number, shape, size, and configuration of the slots in a receptacle determine the type of circuit and amperage it connects to.
FIGURE 19.9
A recently developed power receptacle contains ports for recharging USB devices, replacing the separate power adapters previously required.
FIGURE 19.10
Codes require GFCI protection for all bathroom receptacles and kitchen receptacles servicing countertop surfaces, to protect against electrocution. A standard outlet connected to a GFCI breaker in the panel may be substituted for a GFCI outlet.
FIGURE 19.11
A Structured wiring system links various electronic devices in a home, enabling them to communicate with each other and to accept automated control. A distribution panel is the site where all cables in the system converge, enabling future changes in the arrangement of devices in the system.
FIGURE 19.12
An outlet for a structured wiring system may contain several jacks for various devices. Jacks can be changed as devices are added or eliminated.
FIGURE 19.13
PV panels typically on a south-facing roof convert solar energy to DC electrical current. An inverter changes it to AC to power household circuits. The inverter interfaces with the utility’s power feed in the meter, to enable the homeowner to sell excess power back to the utility.
FIGURE 20.1
Luminous flux is the amount of light that strikes a surface, measured in lumens. A candle set 1′ away from a curved surface of 1 square foot produces 1 lumen in the American system. In the International System, 1 lumen is the amount of light that falls on a curved surface of 1 square meter at a distance of 1 meter.
FIGURE 20.2
Although they are being replaced by more efficient lighting, incandescent lamps are still available in several versions. A, G, PAR, and R bulbs screw into standard sockets; B and CA tipped bulbs screw into smaller sockets. Mini bulbs twist into special sockets and require a transformer to step the voltage down to 12 volts.
FIGURE 20.3
Fluorescent lamps come in a wide variety of shapes and color renditions. Compact fluorescent bulbs screw into standard 120V sockets and yield outputs from 300 lumens (7W) to 1, 600 lumens (23W).
FIGURE 20.4
Halogen lamps offer greater efficiency than incandescent lamps and have more precise beams and whiter color, closer to sunlight. The PAR lamp shown is suited to recessed can lights and works on 120V. Other lamps require a transformer to step the voltage down to 12V. MR lamps are suited to track lights, while the bi-pin, mini-can, and puck lamps work well in under-cabinet installations.
FIGURE 20.5
Small strip fixtures with xenon or halogen mini-bulbs are well suited for under-cabinet installations. The fixture shown uses 5w, 24v xenon mini-bulbs spaced about 2″ (51 mm) apart.
FIGURE 20.6
LED technology continues to evolve, producing long-lasting and energy-efficient lighting products, such as shown here. The 6W spotlight contains three diodes in a bulb only 2″ (51 mm) high. The strip fixture, intended for under-cabinet lighting, contains clusters of very small diodes.
FIGURE 20.7
Color temperature of light sources.
FIGURE 20.8
Lighting can be built into the structure or cabinetry to illuminate any selected surface and disperse light directly or indirectly. Direct light, such as shown in the under-cabinet application at left, brightens a countertop. Indirect lighting, shown in the other two examples, creates a softer effect for ambient lighting.
FIGURE 20.9
Lighting fixtures come in an infinite variety to suit any intended application. Track lights allow users to add or subtract fixtures and adjust the direction of the light. Strip fixtures are well suited for installation under kitchen cabinets and along the sides of mirrors.
FIGURE 20.10
A good balance between ambient and task lighting can be had by combining under-cabinet fixtures with fixtures mounted on the ceiling.
FIGURE 20.11
Another approach mounts task lights in a soffit in front of the wall cabinets.
FIGURE 20.12
Task lighting can be supplied by track lighting in front of the cabinets, which enables users to adjust the location and beam of the lighting. The fixtures must be chosen and installed to allow the cabinet doors to open.
FIGURE 20.13
A kitchen that includes a dining area needs a light source above the dining surface, such as the pendant fixture shown here. In this example, the strip lighting under the cabinets can be turned off during dining, while the indirect lights above the cabinets can be dimmed, as desired, for the mood.
FIGURE 20.14
Guidelines for using track lighting to illuminate objects on a wall, the wall itself, or any vertical surface.
FIGURE 20.15
Guidelines for using recessed fixtures for accent lighting. Matching the lamp type correctly with the vertical and horizontal distances shown will ensure light levels of 20 to 60fc at the center of the beam.
FIGURE 20.16
Fixtures mounted at both sides of a mirror are the most effective way to spread light where it is wanted on the user’s face. This may provide all of the light required in a small bath. Larger baths may require additional fixtures for task or ambient lighting.
FIGURE 20.17
Task lighting at a vanity can be provided by a fluorescent strip fixture mounted behind a valance.
List of Tables
TABLE 4.1
Recommended Minimum Total R-values
TABLE 4.2
Comparing Types of Insulation
TABLE 5.1
Roof Overhang Factors
TABLE 7.1
Lumber Grading Standards
TABLE 7.2
Moisture Content of Graded Lumber
TABLE 7.3
Sizes of Milled Lumber Based on Western Wood Products Association Rules
TABLE 7.4
Solid Lumber Floor Joists
TABLE 7.5
Engineered Lumber Floor Joists (I-Joists)
TABLE 8.1
Exterior wall finish materials
TABLE 8.2
Door and Window Trim Options
TABLE 9.1
Lock and Latch Functions
TABLE 10.1
Framing systems
TABLE 10.2
Rafter Selection
TABLE 10.3
Comparing Roofing Materials
TABLE 11.1
TABLE 11.2
Joists for Lowered Ceilings
TABLE 11.3
Headers for Interior Bearing Walls
TABLE 12.1
Interior Panels
TABLE 12.2
Suitable Wall or Ceiling Substrate
TABLE 14.1
Sizing Ceiling Fans
TABLE 14.2
Cooling Potential of Evaporative Cooling
TABLE 15.1
Typical Airflow Rates of Range Exhaust Systems
TABLE 16.1
Comparing Water Supply Pipe Materials
TABLE 16.2
Sizing Pipe for Water Supply
TABLE 16.3
Comparing Water Treatment Options
TABLE 16.4
Estimating Water Heater Capacity
TABLE 17.1
DWV Piping Materials at a Glance
TABLE 19.1
Electrical Requirements for Kitchen Appliances
TABLE 20.1
Comparing Lighting Sources
RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION AND SYSTEMS
KITCHEN & BATH
Second Edition
JERRY GERMER
Cover image: (left) © iStockphoto.com/tonda (right) Design by Peter Ross Salerno, CMKBD/co-designer Shannon Gallaher Hall; photograph by Peter Rymwid Cover design: Anne Michele Abbott
This book is printed on acid-free paper.
National Kitchen & Bath Association 687 Willow Grove Street Hackettstown, NJ 07840 Phone: 800-THE-NKBA (800-843-6522) Fax: 908-852-1695 Website: NKBA.org
Copyright © 2014 National Kitchen and Bath Association. All rights reserved.
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey.
Published simultaneously in Canada.
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Germer, Jerry, 1938- [Works. Selections] Kitchen & bath residential construction and systems / Jerry Germer. – Second Edition. pages cm "Residential Construction and Systems is a compilation of the material originally published by the NKBA in two prior books, Residential Construction : Systems, Materials, Codes, 2006 and Kitchen & Bath Systems : Mechanical, Electrical, Plumbing, 2006." Includes index. ISBN 978-1-118-43910-4 (cloth); 978-1-118-69302-5 (ebk.); 978-1-118-71104-0 (ebk.) 1. House construction–Handbooks, manuals, etc 2. Building–Details–Handbooks, manuals, etc. 3. Kitchens–Remodeling. 4. Bathrooms–Remodeling. 5. Buildings–Mechanical equipment. I. Germer, Jerry, 1938- Residential construction. II. Germer, Jerry, 1938- Kitchen & bath systems. III. National Kitchen and Bath Association (U.S.) IV. Title. V. Title: Kitchen and bath residential construction and systems. TH4813.G47 2013 690′.42–dc23
2013009462
Sponsors
The National Kitchen and Bath Association recognizes, with gratitude, the following companies whose generous contributions supported the development of this second edition volume which combines the newly revised Residential Construction and Kitchen & Bath Systems volumes of the NKBA Professional Resource Library.
PLATINUM SPONSORS
GOLD SPONSORS
DELTA FAUCET COMPANY
www.deltafaucet.com
SUB-ZERO/WOLF
www.subzero-wolf.com
About the National Kitchen & Bath Association
The National Kitchen & Bath Association (NKBA) is the only non-profit trade association dedicated exclusively to the kitchen and bath industry and is the leading source of information and education for professionals in the field. Fifty years after its inception, the NKBA has a membership of more than 55, 000 and is the proud owner of the Kitchen & Bath Industry Show (KBIS).
The NKBA’s mission is to enhance member success and excellence, promote professionalism and ethical business practices, and provide leadership and direction for the kitchen and bath industry worldwide.
The NKBA has pioneered innovative industry research, developed effective business management tools, and set groundbreaking design standards for safe, functional, and comfortable kitchens and baths.
Recognized as the kitchen and bath industry’s leader in learning and professional development, the NKBA offers professionals of all levels of experience essential reference materials, conferences, virtual learning opportunities, marketing assistance, design competitions, consumer referrals, internships, and opportunities to serve in leadership positions.
The NKBA’s internationally recognized certification program provides professionals the opportunity to demonstrate knowledge and excellence as Associate Kitchen & Bath Designer (AKBD), Certified Kitchen Designer (CKD), Certified Bath Designer (CBD), Certified Master Kitchen & Bath Designer (CMKBD), and Certified Kitchen & Bath Professional (CKBP).
For students entering the industry, the NKBA offers Accredited and Supported Programs, which provide NKBA-approved curriculum at more than 60 learning institutions throughout the United States and Canada.
For consumers, the NKBA showcases award winning designs and provides information on remodeling, green design, safety, and more at NKBA.org. The NKBA Pro Search tool helps consumers locate kitchen and bath professionals in their area.
The NKBA offers membership in 11 different industry segments: dealers, designers, manufacturers and suppliers, multi-branch retailers and home centers, decorative plumbing and hardware, manufacturer’s representatives, builders and remodelers, installers, fabricators, cabinet shops, and distributors. For more information, visit NKBA.org.
Preface
Residential design and construction continues to change and affects two of the most important rooms—the kitchen and bath. Even in lean economic times, such as the one we are just now emerging from, new building materials and products come on the market in a steady stream, and changes continue to be made to tried and true products. Some of these changes are in response to concerns consumers have for the environment and represent positive change. Others are merely updated versions of their predecessors. To be successful, kitchen and bath designers need to keep abreast the changes that affect their areas of expertise. But these rooms don’t exist as disparate entities; they are part of a larger entity, the home. That’s why K&B designers need a general knowledge of residential design and construction—the focus of this book.
Residential Construction and Systems is a compilation of the material originally published by the NKBA in two prior books, Residential Construction—Systems, Materials, Codes (2006), and Kitchen & Bath Systems—Mechanical, Electrical, Plumbing (2006).
The present volume is an overview of all the elements that go into building a new or modifying an existing home, beginning with a description of who does what in the process and how they interrelate, followed by a description of the codes and permitting process that confront all designers.
Chapters 3, 4, and 5 cover healthy houses, maximizing energy efficiency and using natural energies—topics that have become ever more important to homeowners in an era of dwindling natural resources, increasing energy costs, and concern for the environment. Chapters 6 through 12 describe how homes go together, from the foundation to the finishes. The remaining chapters of the book deal with the mechanical and electrical systems that are necessary to create the desired interior environment and enable the home’s appliances and equipment to operate.
While combining the two predecessor books into a single volume the author has updated the content to reflect changes in residential design and construction. One of the improvements in home construction cited is the use of a drainage plain “rain screen” between siding and the substrate which extends the life of the siding and coatings. Throughout the book there is mention of developments in the industry that have come about in response to growing consciousness to create environments that are sustainable and use energy wisely. For example, building codes, ever changing, now include the International Green Construction Code. Concern over indoor air quality has resulted in the availability of paints and panels that contain low or no harmful VOC emissions. Daylighting and new lighting products such as LED lamps are discussed as ways to conserve household energy, along with trends in insulation that include growing use of spray foam. There is expanded coverage of solar heating, both active and passive. New products mentioned include fiberglass windows, polyethylene gas piping, and dual-flush toilets.
Many contributors made this book possible. Special thanks go to Johanna Baars, publication specialist at the NKBA, Paul Drougas, editor at John Wiley & Sons, and Mike New, editorial assistant. The following peer reviewers provided many useful comments and suggestions: David Alderman, CMKBD, Spencer Hinkle, CKD, Corey Klassen, CKD, and David Newton, CMKBD.
Acknowledgements
The NKBA gratefully acknowledges the following peer reviewers of this book:
David Alderman, CMKBD Spencer Hinkle, CKDCorey Klassen, CKD David Newton, CMKBD
1The Building Team
As a kitchen and bath designer, you won’t be working alone. To begin with, you’ll obviously need clients. Beyond that you’ll depend on a number of other professionals and installers to realize your design concepts. You should know your own strengths and weaknesses and what specialists to call on for project tasks outside your own expertise. Working smoothly with this team of building specialists will require courtesy, respect, and patience. This chapter gives you an overview of some of the major players on the building team and where they fit in the game.
The teams that design and build commercial or industrial projects have narrower, more clearly defined roles than those involved with residences. Architects and engineers basically design and look in, from time to time, to ensure that the work is being constructed as specified. A general contractor manages the construction, with subcontractors installing various parts.
With residences, many variations are possible. The overall design may not come from an architect or building designer at all but from a magazine or other source, sometimes adapted by a designer for the specific project. The heating system might be designed by the same firm who installs it. The same holds for electrical work. A general contractor, or homebuilder, may coordinate the various subparts, or it may be left to the owner. And the owner often installs some of the work.
How do you fit in? There’s no general answer. As a kitchen and bath designer, you play an important part in realizing a residential project. To do this effectively, you need first to know your craft, understand the project, and be able to work smoothly with the other players on the team.
Before you do anything else with a project, you should pin down the organizational model, who does what, and who answers to whom.
Learning Objective 1: Describe the areas of expertise of those who may interact in the design of a residence.
Learning Objective 2: Describe the areas of expertise of those who may install or construct all or portions of a residence.
Learning Objective 3: Differentiate the roles of each member of a building team.
