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A journey through Scotland's past from the earliest times through the medium of the awe-inspiring stories that were at the heart of our ancestors' traditions and beliefs. As the art of storytelling bursts into new flower, many tales are being told again as they once were. As On the Trail of Scotland's Myths and Legends unfolds, mythical animals, supernatural beings, heroes, giants and goddesses come alive and walk Scotland's rich landscape as they did in the time of the Scots, Gaelic and Norse speakers of the past. Visiting over 170 sites across Scotland, Stuart McHardy traces the lore of our ancestors, connecting ancient beliefs with traditions still alive today. Presenting a new picture of who the Scots are and where they have come from, this book provides an insight into a unique tradition of myth, legend and folklore that has marked the language and landscape of Scotland.
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STUART MCHARDY has lectured and written on many aspects of Scottish history and folklore both in Scotland and abroad. His life-long interest in all aspects of Scottish culture led to his becoming a founding member and president of the Pictish Arts Society. From 1993-98 he was also the Director of the Scots Language Resource Centre in Perth. Following many years on the seminal McGregor’s Gathering (BBC Radio Scotland) he has continued to broadcast on radio and television. He lectures annually at Edinburgh University’s Centre for Continuing Education in the areas of Scottish mythology, folklore and legend. He is also the author of a children’s book, The Wild Haggis and the Greetin-faced Nyaff (Scottish Children’s Press, 1995) and has had poetry in Scots and English published in many magazines. Born in Dundee, McHardy is a graduate of Edinburgh University and lives in that city today with his wife Sandra.
Books in the Luath On the Trail of series
On the Trail of Bonnie Prince Charlie
On the Trail of the Holy Grail
On the Trail of John Muir
On the Trail of John Wesley
On the Trail of King Arthur
On the Trail of Mary Queen of Scots
On the Trail of the Pilgrim Fathers
On the Trail of Queen Victoria in the Highlands
On the Trail of Scotland’s History
On the Trail of Robert Burns
On the Trail of Robert Service
On the Trail of Robert the Bruce
On the Trail of Scotland’s Myths and Legends
On the Trail of William Shakespeare
On the Trail of William Wallace
First Published as Scotland: Myths, Legend and Folklore 1999
Revised Edition 2005
Reprinted 2012, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
This Edition 2024
ISBN: 978-1-913025-15-1
Maps by Jim Lewis
Illustrations by Nulsh the Bold, Scottish Cartoon Art Studio, Glasgow
Typeset in 10.5 point Sabon by
3btype.com
The author’s right to be identified as author of this book under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 has been asserted.
© Stuart McHardy
In Memoriam
Martin Hendry
1943–1999
Contents
Index Map
Map A
Map B
Map C
Map D
Preface
Introduction
CHAPTER 1 The Hollow Hills
The Eildon Hills
Tomnahurich
Calton Hill
The Fairy Hill of Aberfoyle
The Two Hunchbacks
CHAPTER 2 The Goddess in the Landscape
The Cailleach
The Carlin
Bride / St Brigit
CHAPTER 3 The Cateran
Serjeant Mor
Cam Ruadh
Ledenhendrie
CHAPTER 4 The Turn of the Seasons
Beltane
Samhain
CHAPTER 5 Saints
St Serf
St Kentigern
St Maelruba
St Merchard
St Columba
St Abban
CHAPTER 6 Supernatural Beings
Nessie
Kelpies
Loch Slochd
Loch Pityoulish
Loch nan Dubrachan
A Female Kelpie
Silkies
Urisks
Brownies
Glaistigs and Gruagachs
A Lochaber Glaistig
An Argyll Glaistig
CHAPTER 7 Witches and Warlocks
A Spell on Eilean Maree
Kate McNiven
North Berwick Witches
The Witches of Auldearn
The Witch of Laggan
Michael Scot
The Wizard Laird of Skene
An Edinburgh Warlock
CHAPTER 8 Picts
The Maiden Stone
Martin’s Stane
A Pictish Centre?
Sueno’s Stone
Vanora’s Stone
Norrie’s Law
The Sleeping Pict
CHAPTER 9 Giant Lore
Lang Johnnie Moir
The Fianna
The Muileartach
The Making of the Outer Hebrides
Guru
Fear Liath Mor
CHAPTER 10 Stone Circles and Standing Stones
Clach Ossian
The Stone of Odin
Deil’s Stanes
Granish Moor
Lang Man’s Grave
Calanish
CHAPTER 11 Wells, Trees and Sacred Groves
Nine Maidens Wells
Bride’s Wells
Clootie Wells
Eye Wells
Moving Wells
The Queen and the Well
Katherine’s Well
The Well in Willie’s Muir
Sacred Trees
The Rowan
The Yew
Sacred Groves
CHAPTER 12 And Then . . .
Calanish
The Cailleach
Cailleach and the landscape
The Cailleach and lochs
Wells
The Cailleach’s House
The Loathly Hag
The Corryvreckan Whirlpool
The Cailleach and deer
Bride
Bride Locations
Breast-shaped mountains
Harvest rites
Bride and the Cailleach
Masculine figures
Conclusion
Further Reading
Key to Map A
Ref
A1 Butt of Lewis: said to be formed from giant’s head
A2 Breasclete: village by Calanais
A3 Loch Roag: loch from which magical cow appeared
A4 Calanish: major standing stone alignment
A5 Lewis: island where Calanais is situated
A6 Taransay: island formed from giant’s head
A7 Harris: said to be part nine-headed giant’s body
A8 Pabbay: island formed from giant’s head
A9 Killegray: island formed from giant’s head
A10 North Uist: said to be part of giant’s body
A11 Benbecula: said to be part of giant’s body
A12 South Uist: said to be part of giant’s body
A13 Eriskay: island formed from giant’s head
A14 Barra: part of giant’s body
A15 Mingualay: island formed from giant’s head
A16 Sound of Bernera: island formed from giant’s head
A17 Iona: important sacred centre
A18 Cuidrach: site of battle in Skye
A19 Bracadale: site of story of female kelpie
A20 Sound of Mull: site of hag’s death
A21 Mull – Carn na Caillich: cairn named after hag
A22 Glen Duror: site of glaistig story
A23 Glencoe: site of Pap of Glencoe
A24 Fort William: mentioned in tale of Serjeant Mor
A25 Raasay: mentioned in tale of nine-headed giant
A26 Eigg: site of holy well
A27 Rum: mentioned as raided by nine-headed giant
A28 Loch nan Dubrachan: location of tale of Kelpie
A29 Dun Dreggan: hillfort where Finn killed a dragon
A30 Glenmoriston: site of story of St Merchard
A31 Applecross: ancient ecclesiastical site
A32 Loch Maree: site of pagan rites
Key to Map B
Ref
B1 Maes Howe: magnificent chambered tomb in Orkney
B2 Stenness: major stone circle in Orkney
B3 Orkney: site of major megalithic remains
B4 John o Groats: location of Silkie story
B5 Forsinard: site of giant story
B6 Maiden Pap: breast-shaped hill
B7 Navidale: site of ancient sacred enclosure
B8 Shetland: location of fire festival
B9 Edderton: story of giant putting stones
B10 Ben Wyvis: story of the Cailleach
B11 Strathpeffer: story of giants putting stones
B12 Dingwall: site of pagan practices
B13 Clootie Well: ancient healing well
B14 Culloden: site of another clootie well
B15 Inverness: location of Tomnahurich
B16 Tomnahurich: ancient sacred mound and cemetery
B17 Auldearn: site of witch activities
B18 Loch Loy: site of witch activities
B19 Forres: site of witch coven
B20 Knock Of Alves: site of witch coven
B21 Burghead: site of midsummer fire festival
B22 Banff: site of ancient fair
B23 Pitsligo: site of nine maidens well
B24 Strath Dearn: story of well moving to Canada
B25 Loch Slochd: site of kelpie story
B26 Granish Moor: location of prophesying witches
B27 Loch nan Carraigean: site of stone circle
B28 Loch Pityoulish: site of kelpie story
B29 Tullochgorm: location of brownie tale
B30 Loch Uaine: part of thieves’ road
B31 Loch Morlich: part of thieves’ road
B32 Loch an Eilean: part of thieves’ road
B33 Lairig Ghru: pass through Cairngorms linked to Grey Man
B34 Ben Macdui: location of Grey Man of Ben Macdui
B35 Kingussie: mentioned in story of witch of Laggan
B36 Newtonmore: story of wizard eating serpent
B37 Laggan: location of witch of Laggan
B38 Dalarossie: sanctuary site witch failed to reach
B39 Gaick: home of hunter who fought witch of Laggan
B40 Tap o Noth: home of giant
B41 Glen Clunie: possible birthplace of Cam Ruadh
B42 Lochnagar: site of breast-shaped peak
B43 Maiden Stone: Pictish symbol stone with legend
B44 Bennachie: breast-shaped peaks and site of several tales
B45 Balmoral: site of Shandy Dann ceremony at Halloween
B46 Stonehaven: location of midwinter fire festival
B47 Durris: location of midsummer fire festival
B48 Skene: home of Wizard Laird of Skene
B49 Tough: site of nine maidens well
B50 Kildrummy: site of nine maidens well
Key to Map C
Ref
C1 Wigton: location of Bride’s well
C2 Loch Carlingwark: site of ancient votive offerings
C3 Sanquhar: location of Bride’s well
C4 Dundonald: site of St Monenna dedication
C5 Rutherglen: location of Halloween baking ceremony
C6 Carntyne: probable site of fire festival
C7 Glasgow Cathedral: founded by St Kentigern
C8 Tintock: ancient fire site
C9 Dumbarton: site of St Monenna dedication
C10 Roseneath: site of ancient sacred grove
C11 Aberfoyle: site of fairy hill and disappeared minister
C12 Callander: story of Beltane rites
C13 Ben Venue: meeting place of forest spirits
C14 Ben Arthur: Arthurian placename
C15 Balquhidder: location of Beltane rites
C16 Killin: location of Beltane rites
C17 Corryvreckan: great whirlpool linking goddess and Columba
C18 Jura: island south of Corryvreckan
C19 Paps of Jura: breast-shaped peaks
C20 Colonsay: site of story of moving well
C21 Finlaggan: site of story of moving well
C22 Port Ellen: story of princess and frog
C23 Kilchrennan: location of ‘two hunchbacks’ story
C24 Ben Cruachan: mountain associated with Cailleach
C25 Rannoch Moor: hideout of post-Culloden Cateran
C26 Rannoch Moor: The Cailleach’s House
Key to Map D
Ref
D1 Drummochter: associated with wizard Michael Scot
D2 Craigmaskeldie: mountain with Bride association
D3 Glen Esk: Angus glen with Bride association
D4 Cairnwell: site of battle
D5 Glenshee: location of Cateran story
D6 Water of Saughs: site of battle with Cateran
D7 Glen Lethnot: location of Cateran escape route
D8 Cortachy: site of nine maidens well
D9 Memus: location of kelpie stone
D10 Finavon: site of nine maidens dedication
D11 Arthur’s Seat, Strathmore: Arthurian place name
D12 St. Vigean’s: museum of Pictish symbol stones
D13 Glamis: site of nine maidens well
D14 Meigle: Arthurian legend site and museum of Pictish stones
D15 Martin’s Stane: Pictish symbol stone with legend
D16 Pittempton: story of nine maidens and dragon
D17 Bride’s Ring: ancient site
D18 Dundee Law: probable ancient fire site
D19 Invergowrie: site of story of Goors of Gowrie
D20 Barry Hill: legendary prison of Vanora (Guinevere)
D21 Dunsinane: ancient hillfort overlooking Strathmore
D22 Lang Man’s Grave: fallen standing stone with legend
D23 Kinnoull: site of Beltane dragon ceremony
D24 Perth: mentioned in nine maidens section
D25 Murrayshall: location of nine maidens well
D26 Tullybelton: probable ancient fire site
D27 Dunkeld: site of Halloween fires
D28 Aberfeldy: site of Halloween fires
D29 Fortingall: location of ancient yew
D30 Amulree: dedication to St Maelruba
D31 Sma Glen: location of Clach Ossian
D32 Fendoch: legendary site of Fenian fort
D33 Dunmore: reburial site of Ossian
D34 Fowlis Wester: probable fire site, Pictish cross and standing stones
D35 Crieff: location of witch burning tale
D36 Sherrifmuir: site of battle
D37 Stirling Castle: probable nine maidens site
D38 Culross: location of St Serf’s monastery
D39 Loch Leven: St Serf’s Isle
D40 Carlin Maggie/Bishop’s Hill: natural formation associated with hag
D41 Maiden Bore: site of fertility rites
D42 Craig Rossie: Roman site overlooking Strathearn
D43 Tarnavie: location of earth spirit story
D44 Dunning: site of St Serf killing dragon
D45 Newburgh: nine maidens location
D46 Norman’s Law: story of giant putting stones
D47 Cupar: where Pictish silver was sold
D48 St. Andrews: tale of giant putting stone
D49 Norrie’s Law: site of Pictish silver hoard
D50 Balmain: farm where hoard found
D51 Largo Law: story of ghost and buried treasure
D52 Isle of May: ancient holy island
D53 Dysart: St Serf location
D54 North Berwick Law: site of famous witch coven
D55 Traprain Law: ancient tribal capital and possible nine maidens site
D56 Haddington: county town of East Lothian
D57 Calton Hill: ancient fire and fertility site
D58 Holyrood: site of St Triduana’s well
D59 Edinburgh Castle: probable nine maidens site
D60 Earlston: Thomas Learmont spirited away
D61 Eildon Hills: location of Thomas the Rhymer legend
D62 Bodesbeck: story of Brownie of Bodesbeck
D63 Maiden Paps: breast-shaped peaks
D64 Tinto: ancient fire site
Preface
AS A CHILD TOURING SCOTLAND I constantly nagged my parents to visit stone circles, brochs and standing stones. As I grew older I began to realise that many of these ancient sites had stories told of them and I found these stories as entrancing as the sites themselves. Tales were originally handed down through the generations by word of mouth, in Gaelic, Norse or Scots. They survived because they had meaning for both the people telling them and the people listening to them. Before writing this was how all human knowledge was transmitted; tales and legends were of central importance to human society. If they had no significance they would not have survived long enough to have been written down. For many years I have been researching Scottish legend and folklore and though there is much in common with the lore of other countries like England, Ireland, Scandinavia and Wales, our culture is uniquely our own.
I have spent much of my life researching Scotland’s past to try and gain a clearer understanding of who I am. What I have found is that Scotland is not a Celtic country, but a Scottish country in which traditions and beliefs often called ‘Celtic’ are just as rooted in the traditions of Germanic-speaking peoples, like the Scandinavians, the English, and of course Scots speakers. The old phrase ‘We’re aw Jock Tamson’s bairns’ perhaps deserves a postscript: we’re aw mongrels as weel. The traditions and tales in this book are intended to illustrate the diversity and complexity of Scottish culture.
Scotland’s landscape is renowned for its beauty and visitors flock here from all over the world despite our often atrocious weather. I hope these stories show that our landscape is not just rich in beauty but also rich in lore and legend created over thousands of years. As we enter a new and potentially exciting political situation it is important that we try and get as clear a picture as we can of who we are and where we come from.
Stuart McHardy
Introduction
People come from all over the world to visit Scotland. Its beauty is well known – the magnificent mountains, the lonely glens and lush straths, tumbling rivers and placid lochs – all can touch the heart and stir the soul.
For all the vastness of the Scottish landscape, each of its mountains has a particular story connected to it. From the dawn of time, the myths and legends of Scotland and the exploits of those who lived here have come down to us in stories in Gaelic and Scots, tales from times when those languages themselves had yet to breathe.
Writing came to Europe only a few thousand years ago and much of the material in this book comes from before then. People then loved their land even more than we do today: they saw themselves as tied to it in ways modern city-dwellers have long forgotten. Much of the material in this book comes directly from those ancient times, reworkings of the great themes of life and death, love and liberty, told against the background of the Scottish landscape. It was and is a landscape of the eye, the heart and the soul of the peoples who have lived here. Magical animals, supernatural beings, heroes, giants and goddesses walk this landscape. As the ancient art of storytelling bursts into new flower, many of these tales are being told again as they once were.
Many things have changed over the past centuries – languages, religions, technology – but the love of the land survives, the glory in its splendour which informs the substance of its legends. What they tell us above all is that we are not so different from our far-off ancestors, and perhaps in the face of environmental destruction and world-wide pollution we may yet learn from them how to live in better harmony with the earth.
The past few decades have seen a world-wide resurgence of people wanting to know more about their ‘roots’, especially in Europe. Although there are varying reactions all over the world to this situation, here in Scotland we have our own way of doing things. There is a growing interest and participation in the rituals surrounding such ancient sites as the Clootie Well (B13) on the Black Isle, north of Inverness. This ancient sacred well is now a well-known tourist spot and people come from great distances to tie a rag to the trees adjoining the well and to make their wish. This is simply the continuation of an old tradition, once extremely widespread. In this book we shall look at some of the sites and rituals associated with this kind of ancient well-worship.
But there are examples of rituals practised even in Scotland’s cities today. Calton Hill (D57) in Edinburgh – itself a name redolent of ancient belief – is the traditional site for a Beltane fire ceremony which has just been revived. It is now attended by thousands as dusk falls on the 31 April (following the traditional way of counting the new day from when the old one dies). This fire festival once took place all over Britain, a rite of sanctity and fertility. Though the actual ceremony today owes more to Mediterranean influences than traditional Scottish behaviour, the celebration and the use of fire, ritual dance and music all echo the May Day rites that seem to have come from the dawn of time. Other parts of Scotland too have seen their own Beltane fires lit, and other fire festivals such as the Burnin o the Clavie at Burghead (B21) or the Up-Hellya Festival in Shetland are immensely popular.
People are drawn to other ancient sites such as stone circles and these have been the focus of many different types of activity. Some people see happenings, like the reborn druids with their midsummer ceremonies at Stonehenge, as central in new forms of pagan worship. Yet others think they may attract UFOS, since suggestions have been made that they are some kind of portal between worlds. The fascination of such sites seems to be growing stronger. The continuing attraction of Arthurian material has been matched over the past few years by a distinctly mystical interest in the thoughts and beliefs of our Celtic ancestors. More books than ever are published on Celtic and even Pictish subjects but we must remember not to lose our critical faculties. The term Celtic, which should apply only to linguistic matters, now surfaces in all sorts of areas and I suppose it is only a matter of time before Arbroath smokies and Forfar bridies are presented as Celtic food!
It has been overlooked by many scholars who have written on ‘Celtic’ society that the last Celtic-speaking tribal warrior society did not disappear until the eighteenth century in Scotland. When the Highland, Lowland and English followers of Prince Charles Edward Stewart were slaughtered at Culloden on 16 April 1746 it truly was the end o an auld sang. The tribal society of the Gaelicspeaking areas of Scotland was already in terminal decline but it is still a remarkable fact that so little has been written about that society. It is as if the body politic of the British State was put into shock by the Jacobite Rebellion and that Scottish history has been suffering ever since. The classic texts on the Celts concentrate on Irish and Welsh material despite the fact that Celtic society continued for hundreds of years later – here in Scotland. And it was a life in which learning was passed on through story and song.
The history of Scotland has long been obscured because of a few historical events. Little written material survives from ancient times due to various raids and invasions. The earliest of these started in the ninth century with the Vikings, who often raided monasteries – the natural home for written material as well as the precious metals they were seeking. Later came the invasion of the English king Edward Longshanks in the thirteenth century. Edward destroyed all documents he could find as they were sure to undermine his opportunistic and dishonest claims to be sovereign lord of Scotland. What he did not destroy was taken south to England and disappeared.
Later, the Reformation saw the unleashing of fanatical mobs who burned books and destroyed great art, claiming it was all ‘Papist’. Because of this and because of the close links between Ireland and Scotland, Scottish culture has come to be presented as an Irish import through Gaelic, or an English import through the medium of Anglo-Saxon, which influenced Scots north of the border.
The heroes that populate our landscape come from various traditions – from the Gaelic Finn MacCool and his Fenian warriors to stories of Arthur and his cheating queen, which have survived from times when people in the Southwest, the East and North spoke an ancestor of modern-day Welsh. There are also tales of giants and giantesses which step straight out of the traditions of Scandinavia, first told in a language related to the Scots and English we hear today.
Scotland has a complex history indeed and most of it was initially passed on through the spoken word. It is the spoken word attached to the landscape that has provided the material for this book. I have found these stories in earlier published material mainly – often guidebooks and local histories whose authors had no particular interest in legendary material, seeing it only as adding a bit of colour. The nineteenth century in particular saw many such publications, triggered by the start of tourism, given such powerful impetus by the works of Sir Walter Scott. Today as we begin to realise we have had little access to Scotland’s actual history, such material takes on new significance.
Recent research in Australia has shown the capability of oral tradition to pass on factual material over thousands of years. Aboriginal tales of giant marsupials, for example, had been dismissed as the fantasy of primitive savages. Excavation of the bones of such creatures, now called diprodotons, and sometimes found in sites over 20,000 years old, tells a different story. Other tales mention vocanic eruptions that have also since been confirmed by excavation. The fact is that while mainstream European scholarship has long asserted that oral tradition was made redundant when writing was introduced, the spoken word has never ceased to be important.
Much of the material in this book has a long pedigree. How long may be impossible to say, but the intriguing possibility is that the story of the raising of the great stone circle of Calanish on Lewis, passed by word of mouth from generation to generation, is true.
Some stories, like those of Finn MacCool or Arthur, exist in many places because they were told in those places and it is part of the traditional art of storytelling to place stories in a landscape the audience knows. Without such location the stories would lose much of their relevance. Such stories include ones of an ancient Mother Goddess known as the Cailleach in Gaelic and the Carlin in Scots, stories associated with our magnificent and decidedly moody mountains, tales of lochs and rivers inhabited by supernatural creatures, stories of romance and heroism associated with the Pictish symbol stones, tales of revenge, and harrowing tales of the persecution of women as witches perhaps because they held on too strongly to the old ways.
We should remember that Scotland has gone through many significant changes since people started arriving here almost 10,000 years ago. Some of these changes we know about, many we never will. What is significant is that the legendary landscape has retained many ancient ideas despite these often substantial changes. The old idea that major change was a result of invasions by increasingly superior and technologically advanced warrior aristocrats is a fantasy of the ruling classes. We now know that the development of new styles of pottery represent technological advance in itself rather than invasion. Language change was also presented as a result of military conquest. The reality is that Scotland has spoken different languages at different times. It has been predominantly P-Celtic-speaking (the ancestor of modern day Welsh) as well as Q-Celtic-speaking (the ancestor of modern day Gaelic) and Germanic-speaking, as today, when most of us have Scots or Scottish-English as our first language. However at different times from the eighth to the eleventh centuries there were Germanicspeaking Norse settlements in different parts of the country and there are suggestions today that Germanic speakers settled here during or after the short visitations of the Romans. There are also suggestions that perhaps Germanic tribes were settling our southeastern coasts almost as early as the Gaels are said to have founded Dalriada, around 500 AD.
Legendary material, however, has a way of passing by such upheavals – as if the psycho-sociological relevance of the stories runs deeper than language itself within society. This might explain why we have the Cailleach in Gaelic matched so precisely by the Carlin in Scots.
Maybe the old ways are not yet totally gone. Apart from resurgences of well-dressing and the Beltane fires, and the survivals of other rituals like the various midwinter fire festivals, these tales can perhaps help us see more clearly how our ancestors lived and what they believed. Industrialisation and literacy are, like the habit of living in cities, very recent in terms of the history of this land, and our much-loved landscape retains a great deal from earlier times.
I have divided the book into topics which link tales of similar kinds and hope this will lead the reader into a deeper understanding of our landscape and hopefully also into physical exploration of this beautiful, ever-changing and lore-laden land.
CHAPTER 1
The Hollow Hills
IN VARIOUS PARTS OF THE country different heroes are believed to be resting below ground awaiting the call to come forth to the aid of Scotland. It may be that such stories are connected to the ancient beliefs associated with the great chambered cairn burials known throughout our landscape. Scholars nowadays see these as communal burials and no longer as the tombs of kings or other supposed high-status leaders of contemporary society. These chambered tombs often contained the bones of several individuals, though not all of the bones. Skulls and thigh bones seemed to dominate, suggesting a link with the well-known motif on Scottish gravestones, the skull-and-crossbones, portrayed in countless Hollywood films as the flag of pirates. It is now thought that these were the sites of specific rites on the great feast days of the year. Samhain, today conflated with Halloween, was very much a feast of the dead in tribal times. The bones were brought forth at these times and used in rituals in which the spirits of the dead would be asked to ensure that the seeds planted in the earth would grow in the coming spring. This also might help to explain the importance of genealogies or family histories in Scotland, for if you are asking your ancestors for direct help it seems a good idea to be sure of who you are talking to! Such genealogies, passed on by word of mouth, went back for many generations and the seannachie, the traditional genealogist of the Highland clans, had his counterpart at the coronation of kings, as well as at the investiture of clan chiefs.
The Eildon Hills
The Eildon Hills (D61) to the south of Melrose in the Borders were known long ago to the invading Romans as Trimontium, the three-peaked hills. It has long been told locally that King Arthur himself is sleeping inside the Eildons awaiting his call to arms.
A local horse-dealer called Canonbie Dick, a fearless character ‘wha wid hae sellt a cuddy tae the Deil himsel’, was riding home one evening by the Eildons when he was hailed by a man in very old-fashioned dress. He asked to buy the horses Dick had with him and, after some hard bargaining, paid for them in ancient gold coins before disappearing into the night. This happened several times and at last Dick’s curiosity got the better of him and he suggested the mysterious stranger take him home for a drink to seal the bargain. Reluctantly, the stranger agreed but warned Dick that he would be going into danger, particularly if he lost his nerve. This only served to intrigue the horse-dealer even more and he urged the stranger to hurry. The stranger led Dick to a hummock on the side of the Eildons still known today as the Lucken Hare, where to Dick’s surprise he opened a concealed door in the side of the hill. At once he found himself inside a huge torch-lit cavern full of rows of stalls, and in each stall a sleeping horse waited with a warrior clad in armour. The horses were all black as coal, as was the armour of the sleeping warriors. On a great table lay a massive sword and a horn of like size. The stranger told Dick that he was Thomas of Ercildoun, the famous Thomas the Rhymer, and he uttered the fateful words, ‘He that shall sound that horn and draw that sword shall, if his heart fail him not, be king over all broad Britain. But all depends on courage, and much on your taking the sword or horn first.’
Dick took up the horn and with a trembling hand managed to blow a feeble note. In response a thundering sound erupted and the men and horses began to rise. Horses stamped their hooves and snorted as warriors sprang to their feet, sword in hand. Dick was terrified and dropped the horn, reaching his hand to lift the enchanted sword. A great voice rang out:
Woe to the coward that ever he was born
Who did not draw the sword before he blew the horn.
At that a mighty wind came up and Dick was tossed in the air and thrown clean out of the cave. He had made the wrong choice. The following morning he was found lying on the hillside by local shepherds. Lifting his head he told his strange story, fell back and died.
A variant on this story is that once the Rhymer has bought enough coal-black horses the warriors will sally forth from their slumbers to put the world to rights. In other legends the sleeping warriors are King Arthur and his knights awaiting the call to come to the aid of Britain.
It is said that the Eildons are where Thomas Learmont of Ercildoun, now called Earlston (D60), was spirited away by the Queen of the Fairies for seven years. When at last he returned he had the gift of prophecy. Thomas of Ercildoun is believed to have been a real figure who lived in the thirteenth century and many folk rhymes and prophecies are attributed to him. The spot where he was spirited away is marked by a stone where there once was an ancient tree – probably a yew – now known as the Eildon Tree Stone. Such is Thomas the Rhymer’s hold on imagination that he is mentioned in several of Scotland’s earliest histories and is said to have lived in many parts of the country.
Thomas
There are many versions of his story but all agree he was on Eildon when he saw a fair lady dressed all in green, her horse’s mane dressed with silver bells, riding towards him. Taken by both her beauty and her majesty, he doffs his hat and kneels before her. She knows who Thomas is and says that she has come to see him. She takes him up behind her on her horse and she heads for Elfinland. When they come to a red river, Thomas asks what river this can be.
‘This,’ she tells him, ‘is the river of blood that is shed on the earth in one day.’
They ride on and come to a crystal river. Again Thomas asks what river this can be and the Elfin Queen tells him, ‘This is the river of tears that is spilled on the earth in one day.’
On and on they ride until they come to a thorny road and Thomas asks what road this can be.
‘This is the road you must never set foot on, for this is the road to Hell.’
They ride on and on and come to a great orchard and Thomas asks to be let down so he can have an apple or two for he is hungry and the apples look very fine to him. The Queen tells him he cannot touch them for they are the apples that are made of the curses that fall on the earth in one day. They ride on and she reaches high up into one particular tree and plucks him an apple. She gives him the apple, saying, ‘It will give to you a tongue that will never lie.’
And this is how he got the gift of prophecy. They ride further on and at last come to a great and beautiful valley which she tells him is Elfinland. Thomas lived here for seven long years, after which he returned to earth and became a great prophet. It is said that among other things he foretold that the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean would one day meet through Scotland, and this is taken to mean the Caledonian Canal. Many and varied are the prophecies and rhymes from all over Scotland attributed to Thomas after his return from Elfinland, but a few years later the following is said to have occurred.
