Teach Yourself VISUALLY Knitting Design E-Book

Sharon Turner

• Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Serie: Teach Yourself VISUALLY (Consumer)
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2015

Seitenzahl: 430

Beschreibung

There are lots of stylish knitting patterns out there, butsometimes you want to do your own thing. Maybe you've found a yarnthat would make a beautiful hat, and all you need are basicdirections for shaping. Or maybe you've had your eye on a cutesweater in a store window and know that you can make a betterversion yourself--if you could only figure out themeasurements. This handy guide demystifies all that knitting mathand shows you how to knit custom-fitted, one-of-a-kind fashionsthat express your style. Master patterns for hats, sweaters,scarves, shawls, bags, mittens, vests, and socks lay out the basicconstruction for each item in a range of sizes; you choose the yarnand decide which modifications and customizations you want to make. Precise master patterns show you all the steps involved inconstructing handknits * Master patterns give instructions for multiple sizes andgauges * A number of shaping, edgings, and stitch patterns accompanyeach master pattern * Helpful tips provide additional guidance * Tables take the work out of knitting math * Step-by-step instructions accompany each photo * Color photos, illustrations, and diagrams demonstrate importantconcepts

Leseprobe

Teach Yourself VISUALLY™ Knitting Design

Copyright © 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved.

Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey

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Library of Congress Control Number: 2006926291

ISBN: 978-0-470-06817-5

Printed in the United States of America

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Credits

Acquisitions Editor

Pam Mourouzis

Project Editor

Kitty Wilson Jarrett

Technical Editor

Kristi Porter

Editorial Manager

Christina Stambaugh

Publisher

Cindy Kitchel

Vice President and Executive Publisher

Kathy Nebenhaus

Interior Design

Kathie Rickard Elizabeth Brooks

Cover Design

José Almaguer

Photography

Matt Bowen

Photographic Assistant

Andrew Hanson

Illustrator

Cynthia Frenette

Special Thanks...

To the following companies for providing the yarn for the projects shown in this book:

• elann.com (www.elann.com)

• Muench Yarns (www.muenchyarns.com)

• Cascade Yarns (www.cascadeyarns.com)

• Plymouth Yarn Company (www.plymouthyarn.com)

• Brown Sheep Yarns (www.brownsheep.com)

About the Author

Sharon Turner designs knitwear and publishes a line of knitting patterns under the trademark Monkeysuits. She is the author of Monkeysuits: Sweaters and More to Knit for Kids and Teach YourselfVisuallyKnitting. Sharon lives in Brooklyn, New York, with her husband and three daughters.

Acknowledgments

Thank you always to my dear family. For helping with the knitting, many, many thanks go to Kitty Jarrett, Pam Mourouzis, Cindy Kitchel, and Kristen Balouch. Ann Cannon-Brown, of elann.com, and Kirstin Muench, of Muench Yarns, enthusiastically supplied a lot of the beautiful yarns used for the swatches and projects. My compliments and gratitude go out to the models—Alison Andrews, Will Bown, Julie Bubp, Keira Cerda, Andrea Cofield, Katie Doogan, Kaleb Wagoner, and Sarah Wilson—who generously gave their smiles and time. Thanks also to Matt Bowen for the photography and Kristi Porter for her technical expertise. It was truly a pleasure to work again with Pam Mourouzis, Kitty Jarrett, Christina Stambaugh, and Cindy Kitchel, whose wisdom, patience, and willingness to pick up the knitting slack are seemingly infinite. (I can’t thank you all enough!)

Chapter 1: Getting Started Designing Knits

Some knitters like to follow patterns down to the last detail, without making any changes. Many other knitters like to alter patterns: They choose a different yarn than a pattern specifies, omit a collar, use an alternate stitch pattern, or add embellishments. This book provides a wealth of modifiable knitting patterns and helps you understand how to create your own unique knit designs.

Using this book to design your own knits is easy: You simply choose an item and a yarn, and then you select from the various master patterns for scarves, shawls, hats, bags, socks, mittens, gloves, vests, or sweaters. The master patterns include instructions for a wide range of sizes and gauges. Particular yarns are not specified, but yarns for the sample projects are listed, in case you want to replicate them.

A large part of knitting design is math; this book does most of the math for you, allowing you to focus on the fun of choosing colors, stitch patterns, and embellishments. Once you’ve followed a few of the master patterns through, you’ll have a good understanding of how handknits are designed and constructed. When you’re ready to depart from the master pattern and do your own math and invent your own handknits, you can consult Chapter 10 for design guidance. Pretty soon, the only things you’ll need to start a knitting project will be a few balls of yarn, a pair of knitting needles, and your imagination.

Using the Master Patterns

Have you ever found a pattern that you liked in size and shaping, but you didn’t like the yarn weight or the stitch pattern? Or perhaps on impulse you bought a beautiful yarn, but you have no pattern to suit it. Or maybe you want to experiment with designing your own knits, but you have no idea where to begin. With the help of the master patterns in this book, you can learn to alter an existing pattern, use that beautiful yarn, or create your very own designs.

One Master Pattern, Many Options

You may have seen a cookbook that presents a master recipe, followed by ways to change the recipe to create whole new dishes. In this book, the master pattern functions in the same way. Materials specifications, stitch counts, and, in some cases, shaping instructions appear in the master pattern, and alternate shaping, finishing, edging, and stitch patterns accompany it. You can easily design your own knits by choosing the various options you’d like to put together. For example, you start with the same basic pattern to create a pair of mittens or a pair of gloves. You choose a size, find the appropriate directions for the yarn you’re using, and then select from a number of cuff options, stitch patterns, and embellishments to make your mittens or gloves uniquely yours.

The master patterns allow you to learn to create your own unique styles without having to tackle too much complicated math. Each master pattern contains instructions and specifications for at least three gauges. The master hat pattern, for example, covers six gauges. Combine that with numerous brim styles, crown-shaping options, and embellishments, and you have an infinite array of options. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can go beyond using the various options suggested in the master pattern: You can incorporate color work, cables, or textured stitch patterns into your design by referring to the stitch pattern glossary at the back of the book.

How to Use the Master Patterns

You may have come across some old-fashioned knitting books that use charts and tables instead of long strings of text to present the information you need to knit the items. The master patterns in this book combine the two approaches, using both written steps and tables.

Your first step in using a master pattern is to make some choices. Each pattern in this book includes a wide array of options. For every item, you can choose from many yarn weights, hem treatments, shaping options, and decorative details. After you decide on a pattern—along with shaping and styling preferences—and you are equipped with the appropriate yarn, knitting needles, and other supplies, you need to make and measure a gauge swatch. When your gauge is correct according to the instructions, you can begin.

The instructions for each item are presented in numbered steps, accompanied, where necessary, by tables like the one here. Various hems, brims, ribbings, shaping methods, or stitch patterns are labeled and presented in isolated sections. All you have to do is follow the instructions for your style choice and at the same time follow the information presented in the tables, according to your gauge and size.

Gauge

No. of Sts to Cast On

2 sts/in.

28 (32, 36, 40, 44)

3 sts/in.

42 (48, 54, 60, 66)

4 sts/in.

56 (64, 72, 80, 88)

5 sts/in.

70 (80, 90, 100, 110)

6 sts/in.

84 (96, 108, 120, 132)

7 sts/in.

98 (112, 126, 140, 154)

For example, the table above shows how many stitches to cast on to create a hat with a brim that is 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) inches in circumference. Say that you want to design a hat for a toddler who needs a hat about 16 inches around, using yarn that knits to a gauge of 5 stitches per inch. In the table, you’d go to the 5 sts/in. row and then find the number that corresponds to the second-smallest size. You would therefore cast on 80 stitches. Then, you would follow the directions for the brim style and top shaping options you choose.

Choosing the Right Yarn

The yarn you choose for your project should not only match the pattern in gauge and function but also in feel, or what is known as hand. Some yarns knit to a stiff fabric, and other fibers work to a soft drape. Always choose a yarn that you like on its own; you will be spending hours knitting with it, and it’s easy to lose interest in a project if you don’t like the yarn.

Fiber Follows Function

Be sure to select a fiber or fiber blend that is appropriate for the garment’s function. For example, you would probably not knit mittens out of cotton since cotton won’t keep your hands warm on a cold winter day. Socks and slippers require yarn that maintains elasticity so that they don’t immediately stretch out and lose shape. Yarns such as cotton, linen, alpaca, and mohair have little elasticity, so they might not be the best choices for socks.

It is possible to alter and in some cases improve particular characteristics of a fiber by combining it with another fiber. For instance, adding acrylic can improve the body and elasticity of cotton, and alpaca or cashmere can be mixed with wool for added softness. So be sure to consider fiber blends in choosing your yarn.

Choose Yarn That Feels Right

In addition to considering a yarn’s gauge and the garment’s function, you should choose yarn that has the appropriate feel, orhand, for your project. A soft shawl with a lot of drape will not work in wool that knits to a stiff and scratchy fabric. If the item is going to touch your skin, be sure it is soft and not itchy. Hand-knit bags sometimes require a firm, tight fabric. You can achieve this by choosing a dense and tightly spun yarn or by using a needle a few sizes smaller than the yarn calls for. Take lots of time to experiment with gauge swatches before making your choice.

The Right Yarn For The Stitch Pattern

Stitch pattern also affects yarn choice. If you’re working an item in seed stitch, intricate cables, lace patterns, or detailed color work, you’ll probably want to chooseyarn that has crisp and clear stitch definition. All that detail will be lost in an overly fuzzy yarn. However, using a fuzzy yarn is a good opportunity to work in a basic stitch, like garter or stockinette, to let the yarn carry the show. Inelastic yarns—containing nylon or linen, for example—can be difficult to work in textured stitch patterns that use decreases to create bobbles and knots; choose a fiber that has a fair amount of stretch for that purpose. Stitch patterns can also get lost in space-dyed or multicolored yarns, so save such novelty yarns for simpler stitch patterns. Always test your stitch pattern on the yarn you plan to use before jumping into the project.

Standard Yarn Weights, Gauge Ranges, and Recommended Needle Sizes

Yarn comes in many thicknesses and is generally labeled—from thinnest to thickest—as fingering, sport, double knitting, worsted weight, bulky, and super bulky. You may come across variations within these categories, as well, such as lace weight, light worsted, Aran weight, heavy worsted, and chunky. These descriptions vary greatly from one manufacturer to the next and from one designer to the next. The table below, based on information from the Craft Yarn Council of America’s website, www.yarnstandards.com, gives you a more precise idea of the gauge ranges within which these yarn weights fall, as well as the range of needle and crochet hook sizes recommended for each weight.

Standard Yarn Weight System

Yarn Weight Category Name

Type of Yarns in Category

Knit Gauge Range* in Stockinette Stitch to 4 Inches

Recommended Needle, in Metric Size Range

Recommended Needle, in U.S. Size Range

Super fine

Sock, fingering, baby

27–32 sts

2.25–3.25 mm

1–3

Fine

Sport, baby

23–26 sts

3.25–3.75 mm

3–5

Light

DK, light worsted

21–24 sts

3.75–4.5 mm

5–7

Medium

Worsted, afghan, Aran

16–20 sts

4.5–5.5 mm

7–9

Bulky

Chunky, craft, rug

12–15 sts

5.5–8 mm

9–11

Super bulky

Bulky, roving

6–11 sts

8 mm and larger

11 and larger

Check Your Gauge

After you’ve chosen the right fiber for your project, you’re ready to check your gauge. Before starting any knitting project, you should make a swatch to ensure that you are knitting to the desired gauge. Making a gauge swatch takes only a few minutes, and it can save you from spending hours on an item that ends up too big or too small.

Making a Gauge Swatch

To make a gauge swatch, you need to use the yarn and needle size, and in some cases the stitch pattern, that the pattern calls for. It’s not a bad idea to have handy three pairs of needles: the size called for, the next size smaller, and the next size larger. (If you don’t use them for this project, you will need them someday for another project.)

1 Cast on the same number of stitches that the pattern says is equal to 4 inches.

2 Work in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side) until the swatch is 4 inches long (measuring from the cast-on edge to the bottom of the needle).

3 Bind off your stitches somewhat loosely, cut the working yarn (leaving about a 6-inch tail), and pull the tail through the last stitch.

Measuring a Gauge Swatch

You can use a ruler, a tape measure, or a stitch and needle gauge tool to measure your swatch. Also, if your gauge swatch is curly and won’t lie flat, and if your yarn’s care instructions allow, take a warm steam iron to the swatch, pressing only lightly. Let it cool and dry.

1 Lay your swatch on a flat surface. Place your measuring device so that the first 2 inches are centered horizontally (and vertically, if you’re using the stitch and needle gauge tool) on the swatch.

2 Count how many stitches there are in a horizontal 2-inch space and how many rows there are in a vertical 2-inch space.

3 Divide these numbers by 2, and that is the number of stitches and rows you are getting per inch.

4 If your pattern lists gauge as a certain number of stitches and rows over 4 inches, multiply your stitch and row counts for 2 inches by 2.

Note: If your gauge measurement includes a fraction of a stitch, include that in your gauge estimate. For example, if the 2-inch section of your swatch results in 8.5 stitches, your gauge is 4.25 sts/inch, or 17 sts/4 inches.

FAQ

What should I do if my gauge is different from the one listed in the pattern?

If you are getting more stitches per 4 inches than the pattern calls for, try switching to a needle that is one size larger. If you are getting fewer stitches per 4 inches than the pattern calls for, try switching to a needle that is one size smaller. Make a new gauge swatch and measure again. If necessary, go up or down another needle size, create a new swatch, and measure it again.

It is difficult to match both stitch and row gauge, but it is most important to match the stitch gauge accurately. If the row gauge is slightly off, follow the garment’s vertical measurements rather than the specified row counts.

Chapter 2: Scarves and Shawls

Scarves and shawls, though simple in shape, can encompass many styles. They range from practical warmth-providing garments to decorative accessories. The possibilities are endless: You can showcase a special novelty yarn, experiment with a complicated stitch pattern, or simply knit a plain scarf or shawl in the warmest, softest fiber you can find. You can experiment with edgings, pompoms, tassels, and fringe to create your own unique design.

Scarf Styles

When making scarves, you don’t have to worry about shaping or gauge. Many scarves are knit in reversible patterns—patterns that look good on both the right and wrong sides. Just about any pattern—openwork, textured stitches, cables—will work, though. Try using one of the three stitch patterns showcased in this chapter or turn to Appendix B for inspiration in designing your own scarf.

Knit End to End

Most scarves are knit end to end, meaning that you work a small number of stitches for many rows, until the scarf is the desired length. This is a good method for scarves featuring cables and complex openwork because you keep track of stitches over a short row.

Knit Lengthwise

You can knit scarves the long way, casting on a lot of stitches and working back and forth in rows on a long circular needle. This method is good for simple stitch patterns that are easy to keep track of while knitting or for stripes that run the length of the scarf. It is not recommended for lacy yarn-over patterns or complex stitch patterns: If you make a mistake, it can be difficult to count back to the problem over so many stitches per row. To work a scarf this way, you first determine the length of the scarf. You check your gauge in the desired stitch pattern and then multiply the scarf length by the number of stitches per inch you achieved in the gauge swatch. You cast on that many stitches and work until the scarf is the desired width.

Scarf: Master Pattern

The three scarves pictured in this chapter are worked in different stitch patterns, with instructions included for each in three gauges. If your gauge doesn’t match exactly to one of the choices here, don’t worry. Simply cast on the number of stitches specified for the nearest gauge and knit in the stitch pattern of your choice to the desired length. Your scarf will be slightly narrower or wider than the dimensions given.

You might want to use larger needles than your yarn label specifies to ensure that your scarf is not too stiff and dense to hang comfortably.

Specifications

Dimensions

56 inches long or desired length × varying widths

Materials

Desired yarn, in the amount specified in Table 1

1 pair needles in size needed to obtain desired drape

Tapestry needle

Pompom maker (optional)

2-inch × 3-inch cardboard for tassel (optional)

Crochet hook to suit your yarn thickness (optional)

Table 1. Approximate Yardage for Scarf

Gauge (in Stockinette Stitch)

Approximate Yardage

2 sts/in.

125–200 yd.

4 sts/in.

175–300 yd.

6 sts/in.

200–500 yd.

Notes on the Samples

The burgundy tweed twin rib scarf is worked in Brown Sheep Prairie Silk (Color #PS400, 72% wool/18% mohair/10% silk, 88 yd./50g ball, 4 sts per inch) on size 9 (5.5mm) needles.

The light pink mesh pattern scarf is worked in Plymouth Yarn Baby Alpaca DK (Color #1837, 100% baby alpaca, 125 yd./50g skein, 6 sts per inch) on size 7 (4.5mm) needles.

The raspberry trinity stitch scarf is worked on size 17 (12mm) needles, using one strand each GGH/MuenchAspen(Color #15, 50% wool/50% acrylic, 63 yd./50g ball, 2.5 sts per inch) and GGH/MuenchSoft Kid(Color #73, 70% super kid mohair/25% nylon/5% wool, 151 yd./25g ball, 4.5 sts per inch) held together, resulting in a gauge of 2 sts per inch over stockinette stitch.

Pattern Stitches

Twin Rib (mult of 6 sts)

Twin rib pattern looks the same on both sides, even though the two rows that make up the pattern are different.

1 Row 1 (RS): *K3, p3; rep from * to end of row.

2 Row 2 (WS): *K1, p1; rep from * to end of row.

3 Rep rows 1 and 2 for twin rib.

Mesh Pattern (even No. of sts)

Mesh pattern is an easy pattern to work with because you work it the same on both sides. It comes out looking like a neat lace rib. Experiment with different needle sizes until you achieve the desired look.

1 Row 1 (RS): K1, *yo, sl1, k1, psso; rep from * to last st, k1.

2 Row 2 (WS): Rep row 1.

3 Rep rows 1 and 2 for mesh pattern.

Trinity Stitch (mult of 4 sts plus 2)

Trinity stitch, also called bramble stitch, creates a pretty bobble effect. When knit in a tightly spun traditional wool on the needles specified for the yarn, it can look crisp and firm. The sample shown, knit with big needles in one strand of super-bulky yarn and one strand of mohair held together, looks airy and soft.

1 Rows 1 and 3 (RS): Purl.

2 Row 2 (WS): K1, *[k1, p1, k1] into the next st, p3tog; rep from * to last st, k1.

3 Row 4: K1, *p3tog, [k1, p1, k1] into the next st; rep from * to last st, k1.

4 Rep rows 1–4 for trinity stitch.

How to Make the Scarves

Cast On and Work Scarf: All Scarves

1 CO sts according to Table 2.

2 Beg with row 1, work in your chosen stitch pattern until scarf measures approx 56 inches, or length desired. End with last row of pattern.

3 BO sts in patt for twin rib scarf, knitwise for mesh pattern scarf, and purlwise for trinity stitch scarf.

4 Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull tail through last st and secure.

5 Go to “Finishing: All Scarves,” below.

Table 2. Cast On for Scarf

Gauge (in Stockinette Stitch)

No. of Sts to CO for Twin Rib

No. of Sts to CO for Mesh Pattern

No. of Sts to CO for Trinity Stitch

2 sts/in.

12 sts

10 sts

10 sts

4 sts/in.

24 sts

20 sts

22 sts

6 sts/in.

36 sts

30 sts

30 sts

Finishing: All Scarves

1 Weave in loose ends.

2 Lightly steam to block, if necessary, and if your yarn’s care instructions allow. Take care not to mash ribbing or bobbles.

3 Embellish with fringe, pompoms, tassels, or edging of your choice, if desired. See Appendix A for a few ideas.

Shawl Shapes

You will be amazed by how many different looks you can create by knitting a simple rectangle or triangle. If you want to go for an airy and elegant shawl, try a fine silk blend over a lacy stitch pattern. If you’re looking for a more go-anywhere, casual style, try a simpler stitch or stripe pattern in a thicker yarn.

Rectangular Shawls

A rectangular shawl is the easiest to make, and while it’s a perfect opportunity to use an intricate stitch pattern, it can also look terrific in plain garter stitch. You can knit the rectangle from the hem up to the neck, working many stitches in rows on a long circular needle, or you can work it from side edge to side edge. If you choose the latter method, be sure to use a stitch pattern that looks good sideways.

Triangular Shawls

Most triangular shawls are worked from the pointed tail up to the neck, which means you increase stitches over a long series of rows to generate the shape. The yarn-over increase works beautifully because it forms a decorative line of eyelets along the edges. Be sure to choose a yarn and needle size that work together to produce a fabric with good drape.

Rectangular Shawl: Master Pattern

This pattern is just a big rectangle, so you can work it in any yarn and in any stitch pattern. Here is a chance to showcase an unusual yarn—a luxurious hand-dyed wool or a novelty yarn like ribbon or tape. With no shaping to keep track of, you have the freedom to explore something out of the ordinary.

The shawl is knit from one side edge to the other. Instructions are given for six gauges in three stitch patterns, but these are just general guidelines. You can play around with needle size and the final size of the shawl to get the look you want.

Specifications

Dimensions

Approximately 52 inches wide × 18 inches from hem to neck

Materials

Desired yarn, in the amount specified in Table 3

Note: The gauge in Table 3 refers to the yarn’s gauge as listed on the manufacturer’s ball band. To encourage drape, use needles larger than the yarn label calls for and don’t worry about achieving the yarn’s recommended gauge.

1 pair straight needles in size needed to obtain drape

Note: You may find it easiest to work back and forth on a long circular needle as the shawl gets larger and heavier.

Tapestry needle

Pompom maker (optional)

2-inch × 3-inch cardboard for tassel (optional)

Crochet hook to suit your yarn thickness (optional)

Table 3. Approximate Yardage for Rectangular Shawl

Gauge (in Stockinette Stitch)

Approximate Yardage

2 sts/in.

550–650 yd.

3 sts/in.

650–750 yd.

4 sts/in.

800–1,000 yd.

5 sts/in.

950–1,150 yd.

6 sts/in.

1,000–1,250 yd.

7 sts/in.

1,150–1,350 yd.

Notes on the Sample

The lavender peacock stitch rectangular shawl is worked in Cascade Yarn Venezia (Color #103, 70% merino wool/30% silk, 102 yd./100g ball, 3 sts per inch) on size 11 (8mm) needles.

TIP

Border or No Border?

Many stitch patterns work beautifully without edgings. You can always crochet or knit a border onto the shawl later if you change your mind. If you want to knit a shawl without a knit-in border, it’s a good idea to use a stitch pattern that lays flat.

On the other hand, knitting the border right into the shawl allows you more freedom in choosing a stitch pattern—without the bother of added finishing later. Garter stitch, seed stitch, ribbing, and even loop stitch are all good border stitch choices.

Stitch Patterns for the Rectangular Shawl with No Border

Garter Rib Pattern (mult of 4 sts plus 2)

This stitch pattern does not look like most ribbing. It’s very easy to do, and it looks the same on both sides.

1 Row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end of row.

2 Row 2 (WS): Rep row 1.

3 Rep rows 1 and 2 for garter rib.

Pillared Knot Stitch (mult of 4 sts plus 1)

This beautiful stitch pattern can get very tight, so if you want your shawl to hang nicely, use a soft yarn on a bigger needle than specified.

1 Row 1 (RS): K1, *[p3tog, without slipping stitches from the left needle, bring yarn to back and knit the same 3 stitches together without slipping stitches from the left needle, bring yarn to the front and purl the 3 stitches together], k1; rep from * to end of row.

2 Row 2 (WS): Purl.

3 Rep rows 1 and 2 for pillared knot stitch.

Seafoam Pattern (mult of 10 sts plus 6)

This drop stitch pattern works beautifully as a lightweight summer wrap.

1 Row 1 (RS): Knit.

2 Row 2 (WS): Knit.

3 Row 3: K6, *yo twice, k1, yo 3 times, k1, yo 4 times, k1, yo 3 times, k1, yo twice, k6; rep from * to end of row.

4 Rows 4 and 8: Knit across, dropping the yo loops as you go.

5 Rows 5 and 6: Knit.

6 Row 7: K1, *yo twice, k1, yo 3 times, k1, yo 4 times, k1, yo 3 times, k1, yo twice, k6; rep from * across, ending last rep with k1.

7 Rep rows 1–8 for seafoam pattern.

Stitch Patterns for the Rectangular Shawl with Knit-in Border

Stockinette Drop Stitch (any No. of sts)

This pattern is easy and looks very elegant. Use this stitch pattern with a knit-in border.

1 Rows 1 and 5 (RS): Knit.

2 Rows 2 and 6 (WS): Purl.

3 Row 3: K1, *yo twice, k1; rep from * to end of row.

4 Row 4: Purl across, dropping the yo loops as you go.

5 Rep rows 1–6 for stockinette drop stitch.

Ridge and Eyelet Stitch (even No. of sts)

This eyelet pattern forms a simple yet pleasing three-dimensional fabric. The rows between the eyelets are raised, creating a wavy effect.

1 Rows 1 and 5 (RS): K1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.

2 Row 2 (WS): K2, *yo, k1; rep from * to end of row.

3 Rows 3 and 7: Knit.

4 Rows 4 and 8: Purl.

5 Row 6: K1, *yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

6 Rep rows 1–8 for ridge and eyelet stitch.

Peacock Stitch (mult of 12 sts)

This easy stitch pattern produces an undulating fabric. Use this stitch pattern with a knit-in border.

1 Row 1 (RS): P2tog twice, [yo, k1] 4 times, *p2tog 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times; rep from * to last 4 sts, p2tog twice.

2 Rows 2 and 4: Purl.

3 Row 3: Knit.

4 Rep rows 1–4 for peacock stitch.

How to Make the Rectangular Shawl

Rectangular Shawl with No Border: Cast On

1 CO sts according to Table 4.

2 Beg with row 1, work in chosen stitch pattern until shawl measures approx 52 inches, or width desired. End with any row for garter rib, row 1 for pillared knot, and row 2 or 6 for seafoam pattern.

3 BO sts in patt for garter rib, purlwise for pillared knot stitch, and knitwise for seafoam patt.

4 Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull tail through last st and secure.

5 Go to Finish Shawl: All Rectangular Shawls.

Table 4. Cast On for Rectangular Shawl with No Border

Gauge (in Stockinette Stitch)

No. of Sts to CO for Garter Rib

No. of Sts to CO for Pillared Knot St

No. of Sts to CO for Seafoam Pattern

2 sts/in.

34 sts

33 sts

36 sts

3 sts/in.

54 sts

53 sts

56 sts

4 sts/in.

74 sts

73 sts

76 sts

5 sts/in.

90 sts

89 sts

86 or 96 sts

6 sts/in.

110 sts

109 sts

106 sts

7 sts/in.

126 sts

125 sts

126 sts

FAQ

How do I use a different stitch for a rectangular shawl with no border?

Just add or subtract a few stitches to come up with a cast-on number that works for your stitch pattern. For instance, for a stitch pattern that is a multiple of 5 sts, change the cast-on number above to the closest multiple of 5.

For example, to make a rectangular shawl using the diagonal check pattern shown at a gauge of 4 stitches per inch, cast on 75 stitches and work as follows:

1 Rows 1 and 4: *P1, k4; rep from * to end of row.

2 Rows 2 and 3: *P3, k2; rep from * to end of row.

3 Rows 5 and 8: *K1, p4; rep from * to end of row.

4 Rows 6 and 7: *K3, p2; rep from * to end of row.

5 Rep rows 1–8 for diagonal check pattern.

Rectangular Shawl with Knit-in Border: Cast On

You can work any of the three stitch patterns provided Stitch Patterns for the Rectangular Shawl with Knit-In Border for this shawl. Or you can substitute a stitch pattern that is a multiple of 2, 3, 4, 6, or 12 sts. Just be aware that the first and last 2 sts of every row are knit to form the garter stitch edging. The first and last two rows of the shawl are also worked in garter stitch.

1 CO sts according to Table 5.

2 Knit 2 rows.

3 Next row (RS): K2, work row 1 of st patt across to last 2 sts, k2.

4Next row (WS): K2, work row 2 of st patt across to last 2 sts, k2.

5 Continue working st patt as established, knitting first and last 2 sts of every row for garter stitch for border, until shawl measures approx 52 inches, or width desired. End with row 6 for stockinette drop stitch pattern, any WS row for ridge and eyelet stitch, and row 1 for peacock stitch.

6 Knit 2 rows.

7 BO all sts knitwise.

8 Go to “Finish Shawl: All Rectangular Shawls,” below.

Gauge

No. of Sts to CO

2 sts/in.

40 sts

3 sts/in.

52 sts

4 sts/in.

76 sts

5 sts/in.

88 sts

6 sts/in.

112 sts

7 sts/in.

124 sts

Note: The cast-on numbers in Table 5 include the 2 edging stitches at each end (4 sts total). If you are substituting a different stitch pattern from those provided, be sure to add 4 to the number of sts needed to arrive at the new cast-on number.

Finish Shawl: All Rectangular Shawls

1 Weave in loose ends.

2 Lightly steam to block to measurements, if necessary and if your yarn’s care instructions allow. Take care not to mash delicate stitch work.

3 Embellish with fringe, pompoms, tassels, or edging of your choice, if desired. See Appendix A for a few ideas.

FAQ

How do I use a different stitch for a rectangular shawl with a knit-in border?

To apply any stitch pattern to this shawl, you just need to add or subtract the appropriate number of stitches to or from the cast-on number. For example, to use a stitch pattern that is a multiple of 5 sts, you can change the cast-on number indicated above to the closest multiple of 5. To include a 2-stitch border like the one here, add 4 sts to that number. A difference of a few stitches won’t make a big difference in the finished size. You can also experiment with the size of and stitch used for the border.

Triangular Shawl: Master Patterns

These triangular shawls are knit from the point up, starting with just a few stitches and increasing every other row as you go up to produce the triangle shape. Unlike the rectangular shawl pattern, these shawl patterns involve shaping, so separate instructions are given for each of the three stitch patterns. All three designs can be worked in any gauge because you knit until the shawl is the desired size.

Specifications

Dimensions

Approximately 72 inches wide × 34 inches from point to neck, or desired width and length

Materials

Desired yarn, in the amount specified in Table 6

1 pair straight needles in size needed to obtain drape

Long circular needle in size needed to obtain drape

Note: You can start the triangular shawl on straight needles, but you will need to switch to a long (at least 29-inch) circular needle as the knitting gets heavy and the straight needle becomes too crowded.

Stitch markers (for lines of eyelets shawl)

Row counter

Tapestry needle

Pompom maker (optional)

2-inch × 3-inch cardboard for tassel (optional)

Table 6. Approximate Yardage for Triangular Shawl

Gauge (in Stockinette Stitch)

Approximate Yardage

3 sts/in.

400–800 yd.

5 sts/in.

450–950 yd.

7 sts/in.

650–1,250 yd.

Note: The gauge in Table 6 refers to the yarn’s gauge as listed on the manufacturer’s ball band. To encourage drape, use needles larger than the yarn calls for and don’t worry about achieving the yarn’s recommended gauge.

Notes on the Sample

The green easiest lace triangular shawl is worked in elann.com Highland Silk (Color #2117, 80% highland wool/20% silk, 122 yd./50g ball, 5 sts per inch) on size 10 (6mm) needles. This shawl is 72 inches wide × 34 inches from tail to neck.

How to Make the Triangular Shawls

Easiest Lace Shawl

This shawl is easy to make. Plus, it’s reversible and works well in all gauges. Try using a needle larger than your yarn specifies for a very open lace.

1 CO 2 sts.

2 Knit 2 rows.

3 Row 1 (WS): Knit into the front and back of each st—4 sts.

4 Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 (RS): Knit.

5 Row 3: K2, yo, k2—5 sts.

6 Row 5: K2, yo, k1, yo, k2—7 sts.

7 Row 7: K2, yo, k1, yo, sl1, k1, psso, yo, k2—9 sts.

8 Row 9: K2, yo, k1, *yo, sl1, k1, psso; rep from * to last 2 sts, yo, k2.

9 Rep rows 9–10, working patt as established, until shawl reaches desired measurements, ending with a WS row.

Note: Keep checking measurements as you go; the dimensions given are approximate, and the final length and width may vary from knitter to knitter.

10 Knit 3 rows.

11 BO all sts knitwise.

12 Go to Finish Shawl: All Triangular Shawls.

Note: The yarn-over pattern can cause an asymmetrical slant to one side. You can correct this at the blocking stage or use it to advantage by throwing the longer side over your shoulder or tying the long ends into an elegant knot.

Lines of Eyelets Shawl

This shawl uses eyelets to create a graphic pattern that builds as the shawl grows. It’s easy to follow once you get all the lines of eyelets in place, after step 19.

1 CO 3 sts.

2 Knit 4 rows.

3 Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, k1, yo, k1—5 sts.

4 Row 2 (WS): K2, p1, k2.

5 Row 3: K2, yo, k1, yo, k2—7 sts.

6 Row 4: K2, p3, k2.

7 Row 5: K2, yo, k3, yo, k2—9 sts.

8 Rows 6 and 8: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

9 Row 7: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, pm, k1 (center axis st), pm, yo, k2tog, yo, k2—11 sts.

10 Row 9: K2, yo, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, yo, sl marker, k1 (center axis st), sl marker, yo, k2tog, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2—13 sts.

11 Row 10: K2, p across, slipping markers, to last 2 sts, k2.

12 Rep rows 9 and 10 until you have 19 sts.

13 Next row (RS): K2, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, pm, k2, k2tog, yo, sl marker, k1 (center axis st), sl marker, yo, k2tog, k2, pm, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2—21 sts.

14 Next row (WS): Rep previous WS row.

15 Next row: K2, yo, [k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, yo, sl marker] twice, k1 (center axis st), sl marker, yo, k2tog, k to 4th marker, sl marker, yo, k2tog, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2—23 sts.

16 Next row (WS): Rep previous WS row.

17 Rep last 2 rows until you have 27 sts, ending with a WS row.

18 Next row (RS): [K2, yo] twice, k2tog, [k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, yo, sl marker] twice, k1 (center axis st), sl marker, yo, k2tog, k to 4th marker, sl marker, yo, k2tog, k to last 6 sts, k2tog, [yo, k2] twice—29 sts.

19 Next row (WS): K2, p across, slipping markers, to last 2 sts, k2.

20 Rep steps 18 and 19, inc 1 st each end every RS row and working eyelet patt as established, until shawl reaches desired measurements, ending with a WS row.

Note: Keep checking measurements as you go; the dimensions given are approximate, and the final length and width may vary from knitter to knitter.

21 Knit 5 rows.

22 BO all sts knitwise.

23 Go to Finish Shawl: All Triangular Shawls.

Reversible Rice Stitch Shawl

This easy shawl looks great on both sides, so it is completely reversible. The rice stitch pattern tends to create a firm fabric, so for a soft drape, try using a needle two or more sizes larger than your yarn specifies.

1 CO 3 sts.

2 Knit 4 rows.

Note: For this pattern, you might want to use a row counter to keep track of the rows.

3 Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, k1 tbl, yo, k1—5 sts.

4 Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 (WS): Knit.

5 Row 3: K2, yo, k1 tbl, yo, k2—7 sts.

6 Row 5: K2, yo, p1, k1 tbl, p1, yo, k2—9 sts.

7 Row 7: K2, yo, k1 tbl, *p1, k1 tbl; rep from * to last 2 sts, yo, k2—11 sts.

8 Row 9: K2, yo, p1, *k1 tbl, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, yo, k2—13 sts.

9 Rep rows 6–9, working patt and yo increases as established, until shawl reaches desired measurements, ending with a RS row.

Note: Keep checking measurements as you go; the dimensions given are approximate, and the final length and width may vary from knitter to knitter.

10 Knit 4 rows.

11 BO all sts knitwise.

12 Go to “Finish Shawl: All Triangular Shawls,” below.

Finish Shawl: All Triangular Shawls

1 Weave in loose ends.

2 Lightly steam to block, if necessary and if your yarn’s care instructions allow. Lace patterns benefit from blocking. Be sure to open the stitch pattern up a bit as you block and take care not to mash delicate stitch patterns.

3 Embellish with fringe, pompoms, tassels, or edging of your choice, if desired. See Appendix A for a few ideas.

TIP

Using Other Stitch Patterns for a Triangular Shawl

You can adapt the triangular shawl to new stitch patterns. You need to perform increases every other row and work new stitches into your pattern as you go along. It’s a good idea to make a practice triangle first to ensure that your stitch pattern can be adapted to the shape.

To make a triangular shawl using a two-row stitch pattern that is worked over any number of stitches or over an odd number of stitches, follow the instructions for the easiest lace shawl through row 6. Then follow these steps:

1 Next row (RS): K2, yo, work row 1 of desired stitch pattern up to the last 2 sts, yo, k2.

2 Next row (WS): K2, work row 2 of desired stitch pattern up to the last 2 sts, k2.

3 Rep steps 1 and 2, working the [k2, yo] beg every RS row and the [yo, k2] end every RS row, to desired size.

4 BO loosely.

To make a triangular shawl using a two-row stitch pattern that is worked over an even number of stitches, follow the instructions for the easiest lace shawl through row 4, to 5 stitches. Then follow these steps:

1 Next row (RS): K2, yo, k into front and back of next st, yo, k2—8 sts.

2 Next row (WS): K2, work row 2 (or WS row) of desired stitch pattern to last 2 sts, k2.

3 Next row: K2, yo, work row 1 of desired stitch pattern to last 2 sts, yo, k2.

4 Rep last 2 rows until shawl is desired size, ending with a WS row.

5 BO loosely.

Make a Shawl into a Poncho

It is easy to make either a rectangular or triangular shawl into a poncho. With some creative thinking, you can even finish a shawl so that it functions as either a shawl or a poncho.

How to Make a Shawl into a Poncho

Folded Rectangle: Method 1

If your poncho is approximately the same size as specified in the master pattern, you can fold it and sew it as illustrated here to make it into a poncho.

1 Fold rectangle in half, matching up ends, so that it is approx 18 × 26 inches.

2 Measuring from fold, and leaving 14-inch opening for neck, sew rem 12 inches (or length rem for your rectangle) along top edge, as shown by dotted line.

Folded Rectangle: Method 2

This method creates a point in the front and the look of a wrap in the back.

1 Fold rectangle so that the cast-on or bound-off edge meets one of the side edges as indicated in the diagram.

2 Sew where these two edges meet.

Folded Triangle

If your poncho is approximately the same size as specified in the master pattern, you can fold it and sew it as illustrated here to make it into a poncho. This will have a point in the front and the back.

1 Fold triangle in half, matching up ends.

Note: You can fold over the edge around the neck. This makes it easier to fold the triangle, and it produces a collar.

2 Sew as indicated by the dotted line in the diagram to close the shawl into a poncho.

Tie it Up

If your shawl has an open stitch pattern along the edges and you want to maintain the possibility of it being both a shawl and a poncho, you can tie it closed as described here. This works for both a rectangle and a triangle.

1 Use the same diagrams with fold and stitch lines as guides for folding.

2 Instead of sewing, tie at intervals along the dotted line, using ribbon, crochet chains, or knitted cord.

Note: If you want to use a stitch pattern that doesn’t have openings along the edge and you want the option of tying your shawl closed, you can plan ahead and work eyelets along the sides by working [yo, k2tog] near the beginning and end of rows at even intervals.

Button it Up

The yarn-over increases along the edges of the shawls provide built-in buttonholes. If you are using a bulky yarn, you need large buttons; finer yarns require smaller buttons. You probably don’t want buttons sewn permanently onto your shawl because they can get caught up in a lacy stitch pattern. Instead, you can make a double-sided button, which works like a cufflink, to hold your shawl closed. You can close your shawl loosely with just one or two double-buttons like the ones shown or space them at even intervals along the edge for a firm closure.

1 Make a double-sided button by tying two buttons together with yarn.

2 Button one side of the double-button to the RS edge where you want to close the shawl and then button the other side of the double-button to the WS of the opposite edge of the shawl so that the edges overlap and close.

Chapter 3: Hats

Even though hats look more complicated than scarves, they can be just as simple and even quicker to make. The hats in this book are knit in the round from the brim up on double-pointed needles, eliminating an unsightly back seam and minimizing finishing. You will be surprised by how many different looks you can achieve by using just one master pattern.

Hat Styles

Hat patterns are easy to customize: Simply change the brim style, shape the crown a little differently, or add a pompom, tassel, or topknot. The variations that follow are just a few to get you started.

Brim Treatments

Here are four brim styles that are easy to do but result in completely different styles. The rolled brim is the easiest because it’s worked in stockinette stitch. For this master pattern, you can work the ribbed brim in single (1x1) rib, or, if your stitch count is divisible by 4, in double (2x2) rib. You can double the brim length if you prefer to fold it over.

The hemmed brim is folded under at the turning row. The hemmed brim shown here uses a picot hem, which has a tiny scalloped edge, but you can also follow the instructions for a simple purled turning row. Don’t be put off by the earflaps—they’re knit right on to the brim and are easy to make.

Shaping Treatments