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A new edition of one of the top knitting primers on the market Teach Yourself VISUALLY Knitting has been one of the top knitting primers on the market since its publication five years ago. Now, updated with brand-new patterns, even more helpful photos, and expanded coverage of knitting techniques, Teach Yourself VISUALLY Knitting, 2nd Edition, is the go-to knitting book for crafters who learn faster by seeing and doing than by wading through tedious instruction books. You'll get visual guidance on the basic knit and purl stitches and advance to bobbles, cables, lace, and fancy color work. Photo by photo and stitch by stitch, you'll learn how to knit socks, hats, mittens, sweaters, and more. * Concise two-page lessons show you all the steps to a skill and are ideal for quick review * Detailed color photos demonstrate each step, and helpful tips provide additional guidance * Other titles by Turner: Knitting VISUAL Quick Tips and Teach Yourself VISUALLY Knitting Design Packed with step-by-step instructions and fun, innovative patterns, Teach Yourself VISUALLY Knitting, 2nd Edition, will have you creating masterpieces in no time!
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Seitenzahl: 356
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2011
Table of Contents
Knitting
Second Edition
Sharon Turner
Teach Yourself VISUALLYTM Knitting, Second Edition
Copyright © 2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved.
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2009941352
ISBN: 978-0-470-52832-7
Printed in the United States of America
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Book production by Wiley Publishing, Inc. Composition Services
Praise for the Teach Yourself VISUALLY Series
I just had to let you and your company know how great I think your books are. I just purchased my third Visual book (my first two are dog-eared now!) and, once again, your product has surpassed my expectations. The expertise, thought, and effort that go into each book are obvious, and I sincerely appreciate your efforts. Keep up the wonderful work!
—Tracey Moore (Memphis, TN)
I have several books from the Visual series and have always found them to be valuable resources.
—Stephen P. Miller (Ballston Spa, NY)
Thank you for the wonderful books you produce. It wasn’t until I was an adult that I discovered how I learn—visually. Although a few publishers out there claim to present the material visually, nothing compares to Visual books. I love the simple layout. Everything is easy to follow. And I understand the material! You really know the way I think and learn. Thanks so much!
—Stacey Han (Avondale, AZ)
Like a lot of other people, I understand things best when I see them visually. Your books really make learning easy and life more fun.
—John T. Frey (Cadillac, MI)
I am an avid fan of your Visual books. If I need to learn anything, I just buy one of your books and learn the topic in no time. Wonders! I have even trained my friends to give me Visual books as gifts.
—Illona Bergstrom (Aventura, FL)
I write to extend my thanks and appreciation for your books. They are clear, easy to follow, and straight to the point. Keep up the good work! I bought several of your books and they are just right! No regrets! I will always buy your books because they are the best.
—Seward Kollie (Dakar, Senegal)
Credits
Acquisitions Editor
Pam Mourouzis
Project Editor
Natasha Graf
Copy Editor
Kitty Wilson
Technical Editor
Kristi Porter
Editorial Manager
Christina Stambaugh
Vice President and Publisher
Cindy Kitchel
Vice President and Executive Publisher
Kathy Nebenhaus
Interior Design
Tai Blanche, with Elizabeth Brooks
Interior Photography
Matt Bowen
Special Thanks...
To the following companies for providing the yarn for the projects shown in this book:
• elann.com (www.elann.com)
• Muench Yarns (www.muenchyarns.com)
• Cascade Yarns (www.cascadeyarns.com)
• Dale of Norway Yarns (www.daleofnorway.com)
About the Author
Sharon Turner designs knitwear and published Monkeysuits, a line of knitting patterns for babies and children. She is the author of Monkeysuits: Sweaters and More to Knit for Kids, Teach Yourself Visually Knitting Design, Knitting Visual Quick Tips, and Find Your Style and Knit It Too. Sharon lives in Brooklyn, New York, with her husband and three daughters.
Acknowledgments
Thank you always to my dear family. For helping with the knitting, many, many thanks go to Pam Mourouzis, Natasha Graf, and my sister Lauren. Ann Cannon-Brown, of elann.com, provided many skeins of her beautiful Peruvian Collection Highland Wool for most of the swatches plus many of the yarns for the new projects. Thank you also to Kirstin Muench, of Muench Yarns for years of yarn support. My gratitude goes out to Matt Bowen for another photography job well done. Thanks to Kristi Porter for her excellent technical editing. Finally, Pam Mourouzis, Natasha Graf, Cindy Kitchel, and Christina Stambaugh worked so hard and contributed so much that this is really their book, too. Thanks to all of you at Wiley—it’s always a pleasure!
Chapter 1: Introduction to Knitting
Are you ready to learn how to knit? Before you put any stitches on a needle, you need to gather materials: yarn, needles, and a few essential tools. There’s such a variety of yarns and tools that it’s a good idea to understand your options before you stock up on supplies.
Getting Started
Yarn Types
How to Read Yarn Labels
Care Instructions and Symbols
Needles and Accessories
Getting Started
Get yourself some yarn and needles and let this book walk you through the basics of knitting. By the end of the first few chapters, you will be proficient enough to create a beautiful scarf, a bag, or even a hat.
Once you begin to get into a knitting rhythm, you’ll discover one of the most relaxing and satisfying of hobbies. Sitting down and taking up your knitting—the feel of soft, warm wool running through your fingers, the look of vivid color against color, the excitement of watching your fabric grow—will become one of the highlights of your day.
Grandmothers are not the only ones who know the joy of knitting. Knitting has grown so much in popularity that there are knitting groups, knitting Web sites, and pattern books geared toward knitters of all ages and sensibilities. Children and teens are knitting in after-school groups, twenty-somethings are holding knitting circles in cafes, and new mothers are celebrating the births of their babies by knitting for them.
As more people have taken up knitting, the selection of yarns and tools has grown by leaps and bounds. Walk into any yarn shop, and the riot of texture and color will overwhelm and entice you. You’ll discover what seasoned knitters mean when they talk about the tremendous “stashes” of yarn hidden under their beds and in their closets.
What’s also wonderful about knitting is that you can take it with you everywhere. You may even begin to look forward to time spent in the doctor’s waiting room, or at your daughter’s violin lesson, or on a long train ride. You won’t be able to leave for vacation until you have packed a selection of knitting projects.
A hand-knit gift has extra meaning for both the person giving and the one receiving. When you knit a special hat, scarf, or baby sweater for someone, you weave your love into the fabric, and the person receiving your gift will know it and appreciate it.
It’s no wonder that people have been knitting for centuries. Even now, when sweaters can be mass-produced by machine, people are still choosing to create by hand. Hand knitting is a creative outlet that satisfies the senses and soothes the nerves. It’s good for you. Did you know that the rhythmic repetition of hand knitting can induce brain waves similar to those achieved through meditation? Once you learn the basic techniques that follow—and they’re easy—you, too, can let your needles fly and your mind wander.
Yarn Types
Knitting yarns come in so many fibers, weights, and textures that you may be overwhelmed when you first walk into a yarn shop. You can use the guide that follows to help choose yarns.
Natural Fibers
Yarns spun from animal fibers, like wool, alpaca, mohair, cashmere, and angora, are generally the warmest to wear and hold their shape well. Wool comes in a range of textures, from sturdy Shetlands to soft merinos. Alpaca is a sumptuous fiber with a lot of drape. Mohair is hairier than wool, and mohair-only garments have a fuzzy halo. Cashmere comes from goats and is buttery soft, but expensive. Angora,spun from rabbits, is also supple and fuzzy. Silk is warm, but not as elastic as wool. Garments knit in cotton, linen, bamboo, and hemp yarns are good for warm weather wear. These yarns, however, are less stretchy than wool. Sweaters knit in these fibers can lose their shape over time. Soft but strong, yarn made from soy has the look of silk.
Synthetic Fibers
Synthetics include acrylic, nylon, and polyester. These yarns are human-made and often less expensive than natural fibers. Many are machine-washable.
Blends
Two or more fibers can be combined and spun into one yarn; these yarns are called blends. Certain characteristics of a fiber can be altered by combining it with another fiber. For example, cotton can be improved in body and elasticity by being combined with wool; combining wool with alpaca or cashmere can soften it. The combinations are limitless.
Novelty Yarns
Furry, metallic, and bumpy yarns are called novelty yarns. These yarns work well for trims and dressy garments, and they can be doubled with another yarn for added texture and color. Novelty yarns are not recommended for beginners, as it is difficult to see stitches and mistakes in a fabric knit in novelty yarn.
Yarn Weights
Yarn weight refers to the thickness of a yarn. Yarn comes in many thicknesses and is labeled—from thinnest to thickest—as super-fine, fine, light, medium, bulky, and super-bulky. Super-fine yarns include fingering, baby, lace-weight, and many sock yarns. Fine yarns generally encompass sport weight and some baby yarns. Light yarns include double-knitting and light worsted. Medium yarns are also called worsted, Aran, or afghan yarns. Bulky refers to yarns that are labeled chunky or heavy worsted. Super-bulky yarns are sometimes called polar or roving. In general, fine yarns require thin needles, while bulky yarns require thick needles.
Balls, Skeins, and Hanks
Yarn comes packaged in many shapes. Yarn can come in a ball, with a label in the center, or as a skein, with the label wrapped around the middle. Both balls and skeins can be knit from directly. Some yarns come in hanks, which look like twisted braids. You must wind a hank into a ball before using it, or it will become tangled.
How to Read Yarn Labels
Most yarns come packaged with a label, also called a ball band. Always save your ball band with your yarn, as it contains useful information regarding the yarn.
The largest print on a ball band is the yarn manufacturer’s name and/or logo, and then the name of that particular yarn. Also included is the fiber content of the yarn.
The ball band also lists the weight of the ball and the yardage, or the length of yarn contained in the ball. Yarn companies assign numbers to indicate color. These numbers are not the same from one manufacturer to the next. Also listed is a dye lot number. Yarns are dyed in large batches, or lots, and the dye lot number refers to a particular batch of a particular color. It’s important to buy enough yarn from the same dye lot for a project because color differs from one dye lot to the next.
The yarn label also suggests the size of knitting needles to use with the yarn and lists the desired gauge for that yarn when knit with those needles. Care instructions are usually shown in the form of symbols like those found on clothing labels.
Care Instructions and Symbols
It is a good idea to become familiar with the symbols used to indicate care instructions for a particular yarn. You need to know this information when it comes time to clean your hand-knit items.
Symbols using the image of a tub or washingmachine indicate whether a fiber is machine- or hand-washable. Note that the symbol of the tub with an X over it means the fiber is neither machine- nor hand-washable. The triangular symbols indicate bleaching instructions.
Symbols using the image of an iron indicate whether a fiber can be pressed. The symbol of the iron with dots in it illustrates what temperature should be used when pressing.
Circular symbols illustrate dry-cleaning instructions. If the circle has an X through it, the fiber should not be dry-cleaned. Circles with letters in them indicate what chemicals should be used to dry-clean the fiber. The people at your dry-cleaning shop should be able to tell you what solvents they use.
Needles and Accessories
Knitting needles come in many shapes, sizes, and materials. Try out various types to see which ones work best for you. There are also a number of accessories, but you will need only a few to start. As you complete more projects, your collection of needles and accessories will grow.
Types of Needles
Knitting needles come in metal, plastic, wood, and bamboo. Yarn slides easily along metal needles. Plastic needles are lightweight but can bend. Wood needles are beautiful and can be more expensive than metal or plastic. Bamboo needles are lighter and less expensive than wood needles. Some teachers recommend bamboo for beginners because the surface slows yarn from slipping off the needle.
Sizes of Needles
Needle sizing can be confusing because each needle has three numbers that refer to the size. The most important number is the diameter of the needle shaft, which is measured in millimeters (mm). The second number, representing the U.S. numbering system, labels sizes ranging from 0 for the thinnest needle to 50 for the thickest needle. The third number on a needle is the length of the needle’s shaft. This number is generally represented on the needle package in both inches and centimeters. The UK/Canadian numbering system for needles differs from the U.S. system, so it’s better to buy needles based on diameter than on numbering system. The chart below shows needle size in metric as well as both U.S. and UK/Canadian numbering.
Shapes of Needles
Straight needles, also called single-pointed needles, come in various lengths and have a point on one end and a knob on the other. Double-pointed needles are sold in sets of four or five. Circular needles, which have two points connected by a nylon or plastic cord, come in a variety of lengths and materials.
Essential Accessories
You’ll want a small pair of scissors and a tape measure.Row counters record rows knit. Tapestry needlesare used for sewing knitted pieces together and darning in loose ends. Point protectors prevent work from slipping off the needles. A stitch and needle gauge measures stitch and row gauge as well as needle diameter.
Other Accessories
Stitch holders hold stitches to be worked later. Plastic-headed knitting pins fasten knitted pieces together before sewing. Stitch markers are small plastic rings used to mark a point in knitting where an increase, a decrease, or a pattern change occurs. Cable needles are used to hold stitches when making cables.
Handy Extras
Choose a knitting bag that stands open, has a smooth interior, and has pockets for accessories (watch out for Velcro fasteners—they can snag your knitting). Small amounts of yarn can be wound on plastic bobbins. Crochet hooks come in handy for making edgings and ties. Pompom makers are great for making thick, round pompoms.
Chapter 2: Basic Techniques
A knitted fabric is made up of many stitches. In this chapter, you will learn the basics: how to get your first row of stitches on the needle as well as how to knit and purl those stitches using a variety of methods. After you master knit and purl stitches, you will learn how to join new yarn so that you won’t have to stop when your yarn runs out. Finally, you will find out how to bind off, which is what you do to remove your stitches from the needle when you’re done.
Make a Slipknot
Cast On
Hold Needles and Yarn
Knit: English Method
Purl: English Method
Knit: Continental Method
Purl: Continental Method
Join New Yarn
Slip a Stitch
Knit with a Double Strand of Yarn
Bind Off
Make a Slipknot
The time has come to pick up your needles and learn to knit. You need a ball of worsted weight or bulky yarn and a pair of needles in the size that the yarn’s ball band calls for. When you have those things, you are ready to put your very first stitch—a slipknot—onto your needle. You have probably made a slipknot before, but there’s a special method for putting one onto your knitting needle.
How to Make a Slipknot
1. Starting about 10 inches in from the end of your yarn, make a loop.
2. Pull the working yarn (the yarn coming from the ball) behind the loop as shown. Insert the needle underneath the working yarn and pull it up through the loop.
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!