My text is taken from a writer to whom every discourse on our country goes for authority and illustrations.Among all the provinces in Scotland, if an intelligent stranger were asked to describe the most varied and the most beautiful, it is probable he would name the county of Perth. A native, also, of any other district of Caledonia, though his partialities might lead him to prefer his native county in the first instance, would certainly class that of Perth in the second, and thus give its inhabitants a fair right to plead, that—prejudice apart—Perthshire forms the fairest portion of the northern kingdom.
Scott was an alien in Perthshire, his judgment of which, then, should be “neither partial nor impartial,” as the Provost of Portobello desired; while it is so much my native heath that I give it no place but that of first in all the counties of Britain. There can be small doubt of the verdict pronounced by visitors, who take the Scottish Highlands as the cream of our island’s scenery, and in most cases know little of the Highlands beyond this central maze of mountains and valleys, falling to the rich plain of Strathmore, spread out between the{2} rugged Grampians and the green hills of Ochil and Sidlaw.Here
arose the ancient Alban, or realm of Alpin, the core of historic
Scotland, a name that has been fondly identified with that of the
Alps; but I am not going to entangle myself in the snares of
philology. If the Perthshire Bens seem insignificant beside the Alps,
for the former, at least, no boastful pretensions are made by their
sons, who familiarly speak of them as the “hills” rather than the
mountains.
Hill,
indeed, is used in the Highlands in a rougher sense, to denote the
wild heathy land as distinct from the cultivated glen. I have heard
an old-fashioned sportsman speak of going out on “the hill,” when
he was actually descending to a lower level; and so R. L. Stevenson
has it—Home
is the sailor, home from the sea,And
the hunter home from the hill.Alban
appears to have extended above Perthshire, taking in at least the
headwaters of the Spey and other streams flowing north. It certainly
included the basin of the Tay and the upper waters of the Forth. And
as Lowland and Highland scenery are finely mingled on these rivers,
so here met and blended the confluent torrents of blood and language
swelling into a steady stream of national life. What may be called a
Scottish kingdom first took shape on the banks of Tay, where long was
fixed its chief seat. Something like a pattern spun by the shuttle of
war comes at last to light on a torn web of blood-dyed, mist-dimmed
checks and stripes, hitherto a puzzling blur for the most erudite
spectacles. The Muse of early history seems like that chameleon,
whose fate was explained by a Highland soldier: “I put it on my
bonnet and it went black; I put it on my coat and it turned red; but
when I let it oot on my kilt, the tartan fairly bursted it.”It
is an old reproach against us that every Scot looks on himself as
descended from “great and glorious but forgotten kings.” If,
indeed, we calculate by geometrical progression how many millions of
ancestors each of us can claim in the last thirty generations or so,
the chances seem to be against any Briton not having some strain of
quasi-royal blood in his veins. Scotland had, at least, many kings to
be descended from, several apocryphal dozens of them, as named and
numbered by George Buchanan, before he comes down to chronicles that
can be verified. But to our critical age, the long row of early royal
portraits exhibited at Holyrood, painted by a Dutchman at so much the
square foot, seem worth still less as records than as works of art.
The most ardent Scottish patriot no longer sets store by such fables
as historians like Hector Boece wove into their volumes; nor is it
necessary to examine so fond imaginations as that of descent from a
Pharaoh’s daughter, Scota, or from a Ninus king of Nineveh. Finn
and Fergus, Oscar and Ossian, we must leave in cloudland, looking
downwards to pick our steps over slippery rock and boggy heather,
among which there is no firm footing upon traces of an aboriginal
pre-Celtic stratum of humanity.When
the Romans garrisoned rather than occupied southern Scotland, and
made reconnoitring expeditions into the north, its fastnesses were
stoutly defended by fierce Caledonians, woodland savages, and Picti,
painted warriors, who may or may not have been the same people. If
the same, they may well have split into hostile tribes, warring
against each other like the kindred Mohawks and Hurons, sometimes
amalgamated by conquest, sometimes uniting to make raids on richer
Lowland clearings. After the false dawn of Roman annals ceases to
throw a glimmer on those hardy barbarians, darkness again falls over
mountain and forest, lit only by the twinkling lamp of adventurous
missionaries. Then the twilight of middle-age history shows a Pictish
kingdom seated in Charlemagne’s age on the Tay and its tributaries,
but there presently overthrown by pushful invaders.These
were the Dalriad Scots from Ireland, who began their independent
career by getting precarious foothold on the nearest coastland
promontory of North Britain. Baffled, as it seems, in an attempt
thence to master the country of their origin, then driven, perhaps,
from their coast settlements by a stronger swarm of Scandinavian
hornets, this stirring race shoved their way across the western
Highlands to take a firmer stand in the heart of Scotland, when
Kenneth MacAlpine overthrew the Pictish kingdom at Scone, its
capital. Buchanan reports two successive battles, the scene of the
former a few miles off, at Forteviot, where he makes Kenneth act on
the motto of the Celtic Society,
Olim Marte, nunc arte.
His chiefs, we are told, not being very keen for the encounter, while
they lay snoring off their drink, the king worked upon them by means
of a young cousin of his, disguised as an angel in phosphorescent
fish-skins, and equipped with a sort of primitive megaphone, through
which he roused the sleepers by a promise of victory, then slipped
off his celestial raiment to disappear in the darkness before these
heavy-headed warriors were wide awake. It is not often we are taken
so well behind the scenes of a miracle.At
Forteviot, a name whose prefix is held as one of the rare Pictish
vocables left to build philological theories, Kenneth appears to have
fixed his own seat. The capital of such a kingdom would be no more
permanent than Abyssinia’s chief camp at Gondar or Abbis Abbeba. At
all events it was hereabouts that currents of molten metal came
together to mingle, cool and harden into the foundation of the
Scottish nation. As yet it was the kingdom of Alban which spread
around like a lava flood, to overrun a more or less imperfect
amalgamation of Briton and Saxon to the south, of Norseman and Celt
to the north and west, while, on all sides, it once and again had
nearly been drowned by fresh waves of invasion from the Baltic. When,
nearly two hundred years after Kenneth’s Perthshire victories,
Malcolm II. had added Lothian and Strathclyde to his volcanic realm,
the style of Scotia appears in history, by which the settlers now
dominant in Caledonia seem to kick off their connection with Ireland,
where their name dies out as it is born again in the growing
Scotland, and Duns Scotus becomes no longer in danger of being
confused with a Scotus Erigena.There
is early Scottish history boiled down to a page or two, on which one
might work in other changes that had made less violent progress,
while the tops of the Grampians were being weather-worn into silt for
the Tay. Those Picts had been in part conquered by the Cross before
they fell under the sword. The disciplined faith of Rome overlaid the
wild Christianity implanted from Iona. The ecclesiastical metropolis
was removed from the West to Dunkeld, then for a time to Abernethy,
another old Pictish centre, and finally to St. Andrews. Intercourse
with the world, and especially with the Norman conquerors of England,
imported the feudal system with its dovetailing of power and ambition
between kings who were in turn sovereign and vassal on different
estates of their territories. The English tongue began to absorb that
of the Gael, as the Celtic leaven seemed to be lost in the Saxon
dough. But when Malcolm Canmore and his Anglicising queen did so much
to bring Scotland into touch with its more civilised neighbour, they
moved their chief seat no nearer the new border than Dunfermline.For
long after Scotland had developed into a vertebrate organism, its
heart beat in the geographical centre. Its kings were crowned at
Scone, Charles II. the last of them, when indeed the immemorial
sanctity of that Pictish palace had fallen into some disesteem. The
adjacent city of Perth, with its Castle, its Cathedral, and its four
monasteries, was the Winchester of Scotland, as Scone the
Westminster. The early Parliaments met at Perth more often than at
other towns that might suit the convenience of kings who had to be
much on the move through their agitated dominion. During the English
intrusion, Perth was garrisoned by the Edwards’ lieutenants, and
suffered repeated attacks from Wallace and Bruce, who found
concealment and rallying-place in the wild woods within a few miles
of the city walls. The honour of being the capital was not definitely
taken from Perth till the murder of James I. showed it too near the
stormy Highlands, while the Dunedin citadel seemed no longer in close
peril from the English side.Before
the seat of government came to be fixed at Edinburgh, king and
parliament are often found at Stirling, with Linlithgow for the
Versailles of Scottish Royalty. Perth still held a high place,
recognised by a decree of James VI. as second in the kingdom. Down to
the end of his reign, its Provosts were as often as not the great
lords of the neighbourhood. It had a leading voice in national
opinion. Some of the earliest martyrs suffered here; then here broke
out the first tumult of the Reformation. Later on, it became a hot
focus of Presbyterian and Covenanting zeal; and after the popular
worship had been firmly established, it was around Perth that sprang
up several of its sectarian offshoots.Accident
of situation rather than its own choice again made Perth a centre of
affairs, when Mar’s melting army lay here through the winter of
1715, watching King George’s force at Stirling; and the forlorn Old
Pretender reached Scone in time to chill the spirits of his
partisans, already too near freezing-point. Prince Charlie made a
more dashing appearance at Perth for a few days; but when he had
marched on, the douce burghers let it be seen that their hearts did
not go with him. They more warmly received the Duke of Cumberland, as
representing the orderly settlement that was good for trade. The wild
Highlandman, with his uncanny weapons and his unbusiness-like
sentiments, was here looked on as suspiciously as the Red Indian
warrior in a border city of America, who in New York or Philadelphia
would draw more sympathy or staring curiosity. The Fair City, while
willing to keep friends with the Tory lairds whose names have been
familiar to her for centuries, cast her douce vote for prosperity and
progress. In the Georgian age she gained some such reputation as
Norwich in England, cultivating arts and letters as well as trade,
and becoming known, in a modest way, by her printing presses, of
which the
Encyclopædia Perthensis
was the most notable production.Meanwhile,
the blending of once hostile races had gone on faster in the centre
of Scotland than at its extremities. Where first a national
government had come into being, a higher organisation of tribal life
was evolved. Here, as elsewhere, civilisation proceeded by steps over
which civilised philanthropy shakes its head. The Perthshire
Highlands, not to speak of Strathmore, contained fertile straths and
valleys that offered themselves as cheap reward for the followers and
favourites of Scottish kings. Norman, Saxon, and still
farther-fetched adventurers got charters to make good by the sword
against the sons of the soil. Its lords, native or
fremd,
lost and won at taking a hand in the general game of Scottish
history, as when the abetters of Bruce turned out to have played on
the right card, or again, when the murderers of James I. paid dearly
for their crime, to the profit of those who hunted them down. But, in
the main, plaids did not hold out against coats of mail, so that for
centuries the great lords of Perthshire have been of Lowland origin.
Like doughty Hal Smith of the
A
HIGHLAND MOOR
Wynd,
the sons of the plain in old times had claws as sharp as the mountain
cats’; it was only when cultivators and craftsmen had ceased to
handle arms, unless for holiday sport, that a spate of Highland war
could burst through the passes, even then soon to scatter and spend
itself in the face of disciplined resistance.But
while those strangers rose to power and wealth upon the heather, they
fell captive to its spirit, taking on the manners, sentiments, and
dress of the dispossessed clans. The Stewarts from England, the
Campbells from Ireland, was it? the Drummonds from Hungary or where?
among other names of chivalrous antecedents, bloomed out as clans,
with new tartans, feuds, and legends, to complicate the native
pattern of flesh and blood; and in no long time they became more
Highland than the Highlanders themselves. Most remarkable is the
adoption of what has come to be called the Scottish national dress,
which, according to some modern critics, ought rather to be the
mackintosh. There was a time when Stewart or Murray looked on the
plaid as badge of a savage foeman; there would be a time when the
imported Highlanders grew as proud of kilt and bagpipes as if these
had come down to them straight from Adam. All over the world have
gone those badges of a race that gave them to its conquerors in
exchange for its proudest blood. The cult of the tartan, revived in
our own age by romantic literature and royal patronage, is an old
story. One of the early emigrants to the Southern States of America
is said to have rigged out all his negroes in kilts and such-like,
teaching them also to speak Gaelic and to pipe and reel among cotton
fields and cane swamps. But when one of those blackamoor retainers,
liveried in a kilt, was sent to meet a practically-minded countryman
landing from Scotland, the effect of so transmogrified a figure
proved appalling. “Hae ye been long oot?” stammered the newcomer,
and took his passage back by the next ship.Away
from Scotland, all true Scots carry over the world an outfit of which
the colours, the trimmings, and the gewgaws come from the Highlands,
while the hard-wearing qualities of the stuff are rather of Lowland
manufacture. Both spinning and dyeing, I maintain, have best been
done in Perthshire, a county of varied aspects, which set me the
example of passing to a change of metaphor. It is in this central
region that a right proportion of the Saxon dough and the Celtic
yeast, baked for centuries by fires of love and war, have risen into
the most crusty loaf of Scottish character. In the damp western
Highlands and the cold north the baking may have been less effectual,
producing a more spongy mass, not so full of nutriment, but more
relished by some as a change from the stodginess of modern life. In
some parts of the Lowlands, again, the dough turns out more dour and
sour, not enough leavened by fermentations that leave it too leathery
for all teeth. While all over Scotland there has been going on a more
or less thorough interaction and coalescence of once repellent
bodies, in Perthshire, I assert, the amalgamation has been most
complete. “Hae ye been happy in yer jeels?” is a civil question I
have heard one old wife ask of another. Here nature seems to have
been happy in a due mixture of sweet and acid, shredded and stirred,
boiled and moulded, with the success of Dundee marmalade.The
same fusion as between Highlander and Lowlander, between Norman and
Saxon, it has been the work of time to bring about between Northerner
and Southerner, the process there hindered by a fixed border-line of
hostile memories, of variant creeds, customs, and laws, going to keep
up natural antipathies. But such fences are now so much fallen down
that there is little to stop different breeds from straggling on to
one another’s fields, the movement indeed being mostly one way,
since the leaner flock is more tempted from hill-sides eaten bare to
the green pastures of the south. What is as yet a mechanical mixture
tends to become a chemical one, as these wandering atoms find
affinities in a fresh environment; then the substance of national
life should be enriched, as every generation goes on incorporating
the coarse good-humour and practical temper of the plainsman, with
the generous affections and mettlesome hardihood of the mountaineer.
The result as yet may be best seen in London, that crucible of blood
and manners, where there are Englishmen who would fain affect to be
Scots, and Scots who have forgotten all but their pride in Scotland.
I met one such the other day in a train, who had his boy arrayed in a
kilt, but neither of them knew what tartan it was. Where a Campbell
wears the colours of a Cameron with indifference, he unconsciously
continues what was begun by a Graham or a Gordon inventing a tartan
for himself, and may end in plaid and tweed taking their turn of
fashion with serge and broadcloth, when
Tros Tyriusque
are indistinguishably mixed in one name and nature.Such
is a consummation devoutly to be wished. But there are centrifugal as
well as centripetal forces at work. When the fear of a foreign foe no
longer hangs over us, we fall into wars of interests, of classes, of
sexes; and piping times of peace breed likewise artificial injuries,
useless martyrdoms, unpractical patriotisms, by which we would fain
set our teeth on edge from the real sufferings of our fathers. Idly
retrospective persons find nothing better to do than to rub up old
sores into an imitation of plague spots, instead of leaving them to
heal and vanish in the way of nature. Some discontented spirits among
my countrymen have lately been agitating for the protection of
Scottish rights and sentiments: it would appear more to the purpose
if Englishmen got up a league to bar out northern aggrandisement.
While the sovereign of the United Kingdom is bound to be of Scottish
descent, and while custom fills the English archbishoprics with an
apostolic succession of sons of the Covenant, there still, indeed,
remains such a scandal as the Prime Ministership being occasionally
open to mere Englishmen. This apart, however, most of our grievances
may be comfortably digested by chewing the cud of the Union in John
Bull’s own spirit of easy good-nature.Laurel
crowns cleave to deserts,And
power to him who power exerts:Hast
not thy share? On wingèd feet,Lo!
it rushes thee to meet.And
all that Nature made thine own,Floating
in air, or pent in stone,Shall
rend the hills and cleave the sea,And
like thy shadow follow thee.The
sorest gall of Scotland seems to be that her name has been like to
merge in England’s greater one, to which smart a plaster must be
applied in the revived title of Britain. No school-book would sell
north of the Tweed in this generation that let an English army serve
a king of England. Yet we cannot play the censor on the speech of our
Continental neighbours, who denounce as England the power that has
ruled the waves to their loss; and it is England which so many sons
and dependents, in so wide regions of the world, speak of as “home.”
In the London Library some vague hint of dirks and claymores has
availed to keep Scottish History a separate department; but one notes
with concern how works on the Topography of Scotland are scattered
under the head of England, while London is set up with a heading to
itself. But what is this slight to the carelessness of foreign
authors quoting Scott and Burns among the English poets!It
is perhaps inevitable that a firm with a long title should come to be
best known by the name of the prominent partner. One never could be
expected to style Messrs. Quirk, Gammon, and Snap in full, unless by
way of formal address; had it been no more than Dodson and Fogg, one
might make shift at an Austria-Hungary bracketing. Lord Bute is
accused of prompting George III. to pride in being born a
Briton;
but the grievance seems more philosophically handled in a story of
two Sandy tars at Trafalgar, one of whom found fault with Nelson’s
famous signal: “‘England expects’—aye, but nothing about poor
old Scotland!” was his grumble. “Hoots!” answered his comrade,
“don’t they know that every Scotsman is sure to do his duty?”I
confess to having lukewarm sympathy with the perfervid patriotism
that is too ready to find quarrel in straws. Scotland has got quite
her share of practical benefit from the “sad and sorrowful Union,”
and need not grudge to England the nominal advantages of size and
wealth, which the latter sometimes appears to occupy as caretaker for
her neighbour. So long as Scottish enterprise, thrift, and industry
are allowed fair play on both sides of the Border, it seems childish
to lament over lost titles and ensigns, toys of history, that only in
a museum may escape being broken, and sooner or later will be swept
into time’s dustbin. When one sees how we have peacefully imbued
our fellow subjects with our best blood, I for one am not too sorry
that our dark record of feuds and slaughter and bigotry falls into
its place in the background of a grander scene, and that instead of
cherishing thistly independence as a romantic Norway or an austere
Portugal, we merge our national life into the greater kingdom’s,
which, by good luck or good guidance, has come to stand so high in
the world for freedom, enlightenment, and solidity. In this kingdom
we take much the same place as the Manchus in China. All over the
world we go forth to prosper like that Chosen People of the old
dispensation, with this difference, that we have our Sion in our own
hands, to which come pilgrims from all nations. The comparison would
fit better if it allowed me to call Perthshire the Scottish land of
Judah.True
Scots should have more philosophy than to imitate unenlightened
patriotisms that would interrupt a natural process defined by Herbert
Spencer as change from an incoherent homogeneity to a coherent
heterogeneity accompanied by the dissipation of motion and the
integration of matter. So Penelope peoples, in their darkness, undo
the work of civilising daylight. Let Bohemia rage and the states of
the Balkans imagine vain things. But why should Scotland waste time
and electric light on looking back too fondly to the things that are
behind, while she cannot help pressing forward to the inevitable
destiny before her? With the warning of Ireland at hand, some of us
cry out for Home Rule and such-like retrogressions that might go to
giving back, at one end of the United Kingdom, the shadow of its
cloudy dignity along with the substance of its old discords.Where
is this reactionary
Particularismus
to stop? There are parts of Caledonia which, in its stern and wild
times, were independent of each other, some that still are as
different from one another in blood and speech, as most of Scotland
is from England. Shall Badenoch or Buchan awake its overlaid
individuality? May not Galloway and Strathclyde set up for
recognition of their ex-independence? Then why not encourage
Strathbogie, the Cumbraes, the Braes of Bonny Doon, or the parish of
Gandercleugh, to lament upon the fate that has made them members of
one greater body? Nay, now that the clans are broken up, could they
not contrive to respin their warp of local loyalty, crossing the woof
of national patriotism? Such
reductio ad absurdum
is worth thinking about, when at this moment there are signs of
relapse in the long convalescence from that Jacobite fever that
“carried” hard heads as well as soft hearts, and set old grudges
against the Union flaunting in plaid and philibeg.I
am informed of a movement for putting the kingdom of Fife in its
right place before a world too apt to jest at its pretensions. These
are many and serious. Of old,
Fibh
had kings of its own, of such immemorial antiquity that their very
names, much more their portraits, are not forthcoming. Enclosed
between two firths, this region makes almost an island, with the
Ochils as border-line cutting it off from the rest of Scotland. Thus
the Roman legions thundered by it; and its maiden independence was
never violated, if we reject a scandalous suggestion as to Cupar
being the Mount Graupius of Tacitus. The kings of Scotland were much
at home here, notably Malcolm Canmore, that effectual founder of the
modern kingdom. If Bruce were born who knows where, he came to be
buried at Dunfermline. History tells how Queen Mary was lodged at
Lochleven, and how more than one King James had to be snatched away,
by force or fraud, from his chosen residence in Fife. The dialect of
Fife, mixed with that of Lothian, made the standard Court language,
while Gaelic was ebbing out of the Perthshire straths. The see of the
old Scottish Church was at St. Andrews, where arose the first
northern university, the local Saint Regulus being supplanted by that
apostle who, according to scoffers, was chosen as Scotland’s patron
because of the keen eye he showed on earth for loaves and fishes. In
Protestant days, several of the religious leaders—Knox, the
Melvilles, the Erskines, John Glas, Edward Irving, Thomas
Chalmers—were all either natives of or sojourners in Fife. This
A
HIGHLAND STRATH
many-havened
coast was the nursery of the Scottish navy and commerce. The most
famous national product, next to flesh and blood and whisky, is golf,
whose headquarters are in the East Neuk of this choice shire. When we
consider the many towns of Fife, its wealth in horn and corn, and
coal and fish, its output of textile fabrics, and remember its past
history, should we not allow that this and not Perthshire is truly
the heart of Scotland? It has even a Wales in Kinross, whose craving
for separate status might one day raise a troublesome question. Nor
does it want a classic bard to invoke for it the trumpet of fame:Nymphae,
quae colitis highissima monta Fifaea,Seu
vos Pittenwema tenent, seu Cralia crofta,Sive
Anstraea domus, ubi nat haddocus in undis,Codlineusque
ingens, et fleucca et sketta pererrantPer
costam, et scopulis lobster monifootus in udisCreepat,
et in mediis ludit whitenius undis,
etc.Gentle
reader, can you guess what standard poet I quote?
Je vous le donne en cent.
The most hackneyed citation, it seems, ought nowadays to be labelled,
for when in
Bonnie Scotland
I aired a verse beginning, “Fairshon had a son who married Noah’s
daughter,” a certain Caledonian newspaper critic was moved to
applaud by calling for the author. Such be the proficient patriots
who scunner at King Edward’s title as Seventh across the Tweed, and
at other bawbeeworths of offence to Scottish nationality!After
this fling by the way, I fall back into my jogtrot. It seems
claimable for Fife, then, that its county council be glorified as a
parliament sitting by turns at Cupar, Dunfermline, and Kirkcaldy; or,
at least, that in a revived Scottish parliament its representatives
shall assert their old privilege of voting first, before that
presumptuous Perthshire. The sovereign’s title raises some
difficulty. Edward VII., of course, is out of the question. But it
has to be admitted that Edward I. of England received the homage of
Fife at Dunfermline, so his present Majesty might justly be styled
Edward II.
qua
King of Fife. There being, indeed, a doubt as to how far Edward
Baliol made his reign a
fait accompli
in Fife, some precisians propose to meet the case by treating our
king locally as the second and a half Edward. In the army, of course,
it is not to be borne that the Fife contingent shall be lumped
together with English forces. In future, one or more British
regiments must be equipped and distinguished as Fifers. The epithet
Fifeish should come into more constant use; but as misconception
might arise from vulgar misuse,
Fifeian
may be coined as an untarnished adjective, the old one to be applied
to the less admirable or more commonplace features of the county, its
distilleries, railway junctions, colliery villages, east winds, and
so forth, while a discrimination is to be made in quoting those
qualities and achievements that have made Fife the noblest member of
the greatest empire in the world, whose style shall forthwith run, at
least in local acts, The Kingdom of Fife, with the adjacent kingdoms
of Scotland, England, and Ireland, and the rest of the British
dominions, etc., etc.For
Perthshire, I make no such pretensions to isolated dignity, only for
having set a pattern to all Scotland, and thus exhibiting some title
to be taken as hub of the universe. But in rambling over its hills
and glens, I hope to let it show for itself the truth of Scott’s
estimate, justified by his reference to other writers, such as might
be quoted by the hundred, all in the same tale of due admiration.It
is long since Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, with that excellent taste
which characterises her writings, expressed her opinion that the most
interesting district of every country, and that which exhibits the
varied beauties of natural scenery in greatest perfection, is that
where the mountains sink down upon the champaign, or more level land.
The most picturesque, if not the highest hills, are also to be found
in the county of Perth. The rivers find their way out of the
mountainous region by the wildest leaps, and through the most
romantic passes connecting the Highlands with the Lowlands. Above,
the vegetation of a happier climate and soil is mingled with the
magnificent characteristics of mountain-scenery; and woods, groves,
and thickets in profusion, clothe the base of the hills, ascend up
the ravines, and mingle with the precipices. It is in such favoured
regions that the traveller finds what the poet Gray, or some one
else, has termed, Beauty lying in the lap of Terror.