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- Herausgeber: Science & Technology Publishing
- Kategorie: Fachliteratur
- Sprache: Englisch
A Dictionary of Men’s Wear is a comprehensive reference work that delves into the terminology, history, and evolution of men’s clothing and accessories. Compiled by Sidney V. Barrett and first published in 1951, this book serves as an indispensable guide for anyone interested in the world of men’s fashion, from students and historians to tailors and style enthusiasts. The dictionary is meticulously organized in alphabetical order, offering clear and concise definitions for a wide array of garments, fabrics, tailoring terms, and accessories that have shaped men’s wardrobes over the centuries. Each entry provides not only a definition but also historical context, tracing the origins and development of items such as the frock coat, waistcoat, cravat, and more. The book covers both everyday and formal attire, including military uniforms, sportswear, and occupational dress, reflecting the diversity and richness of men’s wear across different cultures and eras. In addition to clothing, the dictionary addresses related topics such as textile types, tailoring techniques, and the evolution of fashion terminology. Illustrated with diagrams and period sketches, A Dictionary of Men’s Wear brings to life the craftsmanship and artistry behind men’s fashion. It highlights the influence of social, economic, and cultural factors on the way men have dressed, offering insights into the changing standards of taste and propriety. Whether used as a practical manual for those in the clothing trade or as a fascinating resource for the curious reader, this book remains a valuable and authoritative source on the language and lore of men’s fashion.
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A Dictionaryof Men’s Wear
Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men’s wear trades expressiv of raw and finisht products and of various stages and items of production; selling terms; trade and popular slang and cant terms; and many other things curious, pertinent and impertinent; with an appendix containing sundry useful tables; the uniforms of “ancient and honorable” independent military companies of the U. S.; charts of correct dress, livery, and so forth.
“A good dictionary is truly very interesting reading in spite of the man who declared that such an one changed the subject too often.”
Dedication
Explanatory
Some seven years ago the author, then connected with a clothing manufacturing concern as advertising manager, wrote a compact little “Clothes Dictionary” which was presented to the trade with the compliments of the publishers. All definitions were short and to the point, many were humorous, and all were within a necessarily limited scope of interest. There had never been anything like it and the book “caught on” immediately, with the result that the author thereupon went to work seriously to compile a larger, fuller, more comprehensiv dictionary along similar lines.
The present book is the result. Six years or more (as time permitted) have been spent in reading, listening and correspondence for new terms and new meanings.
Naturally, as all first compilations must inevitably be, the book is, frankly, lacking many definitions, particularly of terms in popular use long ago, and doubtless, many of today. Wherefore no claim is made that the book is complete, but it is believed that it is reasonably so—or usably so.
In compilation the main purpose has been to make the book comprehensiv (covering about everything of men’s wear, use and interest) and, contrary to most dictionaries, encyclopedias and the like, interesting.
Altho the title specifies “men’s wear”, the book broadly covers many items of women’s wear (as many fabrics, etc., are common to both sexes), and except that items of strictly women’s wear have been omitted, might have been entitled “A Dictionary of Apparel”, and should, therefore, be of quite as much interest to the straight drygoods merchant as to the modern clothier.
The definitions are not tiresomely long—not any of them—but all are of sufficient length to cover essentials and are accurate and reliable; and, altho the dictionary is somewhat encyclopedic, it is not intended that it shall take the place of any encyclopedia. A feature of its forerunner that may be appreciated is that many of the less important and more obvious terms are dismist quite briefly or else freely or facetiously handled—enough so to induce one to search the pages for these alone.
Obviously, no hard and fast rules could be set to govern the work. Each term had to be considered in itself and explained so clearly, without waste (or skimping) of words, as to be understandable without the aid of pictures. That there has been no necessity for illustrations and that the book has been otherwise brightened without them the author considers somewhat of an achievment.
In a word, it has been the aim of the author to make simply a handy reference book, “popular” rather than learned, helping one over transient needs, leaving the wearying technical dissertations to text books, encyclopedias, etc. If this has been accomplisht, there is great cause for satisfaction to
Memorandum
Please don’t be provoked by the use of “simplified spelling.” It helpt me cram much more in the compass of this book than could have been done with the use of some of our superannuated forms. Besides, simplification is the order of the day, and we might as well get used to it, every one of us. And, again, only the less jarring and those surest of early adoption have been used: there’s a concession to conservatism and “the conventions”.
Neither permit the abbreviation of repetitions of index-words to the initial letters thereof to confuse you. The eye catches the sense and simplicity of the scheme quickly enough (the brain should be no less nimble)—and the eye must not be offended. Besides, this has saved me more space than “simplified spelling”.
Please notice, further, that this is not a pronouncing dictionary. Most people in the trade don’t need this feature, thru daily familiarity with the terms, even tho they may not thoroly understand them—which is nothing unusual. And so, to keep as many “high-browed” features out of the way as was possible, and to make this just a handy look-into book for everyday folks (such a book as I have longed for for my own use) pronunciation, grammar-classing, and such like devices of the weary big-books were deemed superfluous and dropt. You will have to go to them, anyway, on some subjects which this book treats briefly—why tire you beforehand?—W. H. B.
Authorities Consulted
Many reference books and other books not specially consulted for this purpose
Various Government reports not separately credited
Numerous trade catalogs, brochures, etc.
Personal Acknowledgments
In recognition of interest and assistance rendered in the matter of definitions, etc.:
S. S. Paupst, ex-secretary International Custom Cutters’ Association of America, Cleveland
John A. Carlstrom, ex-president International Custom Cutters’ Association of America, author of “Proportions of the Human Form” and other works on tailoring, New York
Samuel Dreyer, of Alschuler, Dreyer & Co., clothing manufacturers, Chicago
Globe Woolen Co., New York
Schnabel Bros., woolens, New York
Regal Shoe Co., East Whitman, Mass.
J. Harry Selz, of Selz, Schwab & Co., shoemakers, Chicago
The Crofut & Knapp Co., hat manufacturers, New York
Spear & Co., cap manufacturers, New York
Members of various independent military companies (in most instances, the commanding officer) for matter in appendix
While particular and grateful acknowledgment is due to fellow workers in the clothing and dry goods trades, from whom the argot and lingo of the trade emanates and becomes, finally, “good English”
Dictionary
A
A 1—(1) of first quality; (2) entitled to unlimited credit.
A la mode—in style; according to the vogue.
Aba—(1) a very primitiv garment worn in Northern Africa, consisting of a square of heavy woolen cloth, folded, with openings for head and arms and worn after the manner of a coat or tunic; (2) a sort of overcoat of rough brown material open in front, with wide sleeves terminating at the elbow, worn in Persia. (Also called Abayeh.)
Abb—see Wool.
Abdominal band—an elastic bandage of knit wool, or other material, worn over the stomach for general protection in cold weather, or as a supporter or reducer.
Abdominal guard—a sort of suspensory (qv) having a metal or sole leather protectiv piece with elastic straps, worn by football players, wrestlers, etc.
Academic gowns—the loose, flowing garments worn by students and professors at certain universities on certain occasions.
Acid tannage—a quick process of preparing leather for use, by immersion in acids instead of the slower salt and bark preparations, and requiring but 4 to 7 days to put the leather on the market.
Acid test—a term generally employed to designate a means of determining the quality of anything, fabrics, for instance; as testing the color of indigo with a mixture of acetic and sulfuric acids; for more exhaustiv explanation see any good encyclopedia. See also Boiling-out t.
Acorn—(1) an ornamental end-tag for military hat cords, slings, etc.; (2) an embroidered device representing rank, corps, etc., usually placed on caps, collars, etc., of military uniforms.
Actual measures—tailoring term meaning no allowances for extra roominess or any deviation from the usual practise.
Ad—easiest spoken and written diminutiv of advertisement, but senseless in the latter case, advt. being preferable.
Adhesiv plaster—see Sticking p.
Admiral’s uniform—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress; see also variations.
Adonis—see Wig.
Advertisement—a statement of business fact, customarily with one or more loop-holes.
Advertisement writer—a power in, for and against business in proportion as he takes himself seriously or jocosely, appreciates or undervalues his business status, and strives toward certain definit ends or fritters time away; and yet, good or otherwise, one who seems to take perpetual personal offense at the suggestions of “the old man”.
Aesthetic—(1) daintily nice; finical; affecting a love of the beautiful; (2) the beautiful itself.
After-pressing—in clothing manufacture, the final pressing-off given to finisht garments; a careful, painstaking operation during which the niceties of shape omitted during first pressing (qv) are given to the garment.
Agraf—an ornamental loop, clasp or lock. (Agraffe.)
Aigret—a tuft of feathers. (Aigrette.)
Aiguilet—an ornamental festoon or series of loopt gold cords, worn by general officers of the army, marine corps, etc., with full dress and special dress uniforms; attacht to right shoulder passing over the shoulder, around and under the arm and across the right breast, attaching to one of the top buttons of the coat as prescribed. (Aiguilette.)
Air-jacket—a garment, usually of rubber, capable of being inflated and used as a life preserver.
Airs—putting on; making believe; snobbery.
Alamode—a plain, soft, glossy silk of colonial days, somewhat like surah-s, variously used, but especially for linings.
Alapaca—corruption of alpaca (qv).
Alaska—a cloth-topt rubber overshoe with a large tongue covering the instep.
Alaska seal—the most uniformly good of the various fur seals; trade term for “finest grade”.
Alb—a linen vestment, often richly trimmed, reaching to the ankles, worn by priests over the cassock and amice, having close sleeves and girded at the waist.
Albert—see Prince A.
Albert cloth—general term for reversible all-wool materials, each side of different colors, and so finisht that no lining is required, used chiefly for overcoats; better known as “golf cloth”, “plaid back covert”, etc.
Alexis—a bag shaped cap, usually of fur, rounded at the top.
Alforjas—a sort of double wallet serving for saddlebags, but more frequently carried slung across the shoulder; usually of canvas. (Spanish.)
Alizarin—an absolutely fast-color dye substance, formerly obtained from madder root, but now obtained in large quantities from anthracene, a coal-tar product. (Alizarine.)
All wool—literally, fabrics composed entirely of wool—sheep’s wool; but lately and not too honestly used in connection with fabrics having an admixture of shoddy or garnetted yarns or having “decorations” of silk or mercerized cotton, for which conditions the term “commercially all-wool” has been suggested as less accusiv to sensitiv consciences and as equally deceptiv to the buyer. Alackaday!
All-wool-and-a-yard-wide—a Yankee simile for thoro-going genuineness.
All-wool-yard-wide-and-an-inch-thick—familiar or jocular term for good quality.
Allapine—a woolen fabric used for men’s wear in early part of the 18th century.
Alligator leather—the tanned hide of the alligator, characterized by its peculiar plate-like markings and its enormous durability; used to some extent for shoe leather but more generally for traveling luggage, pocket books, etc.
Allonge—see Wig.
Alpaca—(1) the wooly hair of a South American animal of the camel family, first manufactured into fabrics by Sir Titus Salt, a worsted spinner at Liverpool; (2) a thin, glistening, plain-woven, double-fold fabric, usually with a fine cotton or linen warp, used for summer coats, linings, etc.
Alpargatas—low, thick-soled sandals tied around the ankles with gay ribbons, worn by Castalian peasants. Also called espardènas.
Alpine hat—see Fedora.
Alteration hand—in tailoring, a bushelman; one who alters garments to make them agree with the pattern or to better fit the customer.
Alterations—(1) the sine qua non of a “perfect fit”, and eke items of expense to the tailor; (2) makeshifts of the impecunious to force garments into presentability for another season.
Amana goods—general term for flannels, calicos, jeans, stocking yarns, etc., manufactured by the Amana Community or Society of True Inspiration, a religious order centering principally at (and in other towns about) Amana, Tabor Co., Iowa. Characteristics of these goods are stoutness, simplicity and durability.
Amber—a fossilized resin of yellowish color, used for jewelry, cigar holders, mouthpieces, etc.
Ambergris—a substance generated by the spermaceti whale and found floating on the sea or washt ashore, used in the blending of certain perfumes and valued for an ethereal fragrance imparted thereto.
American shoulders—“Epauls Americaine”, an appellation given to wadded shoulders in France.
Americans—trade term for cloths produced by any of the many mills comprising the great concern known as the American Woolen Company.
Amice—an embroidered ecclesiastical collar of fine white linen attacht to a hood.
Ammunition bag—a b. or pouch of waterproof canvas or duck, carried suspended by a strap from the shoulders; also used as lunch b., for small luggage, etc.
Ammunition belt—see Cartridge b.
Amulet—a charm, often of precious metals and gems, worn around the neck as a preventiv of ills, enchantments, accidents, etc.
Anderson’s—trade diminutiv for the fine ginghams manufactured by David & John Anderson, Glasgow, Scotland.
Anglesea—trade name for a light, thinnish curl given to felt hat brims; compare D’Orsay.
Anglican cassock—differing from Latin c. in that it is double-breasted without buttons, the cincture or girdle being knotted behind the hip.
Angola—a thick, soft wooly overcoating.
Angora—(1) the hair or wool of the Angora goat of Asia Minor, from which is woven the mohair fabrics of commerce. A. wool is classified as combing, carding and coarse, and again subdivided into about ten other grades. See Wool; (2) also, loosely, any fabric woven of A. wool.
Anilin dye—any dye stuff derived from coal tar; such dyes are permanent on silk and wool, but are fugitiv on fabrics of vegetable fiber. (Aniline.) See Alizarin dye.
Ankle boot—(1) a heavy rubber shoe reaching to the ankle for wear over (lumbermen’s) heavy wool socks; (2) an old name for shoes.
Ankle length—trade term for undergarments reaching to the ankles.
Ankle support—a device of leather, metal or fiber for the support of weak ankles, worn either inside or outside the stocking, but inside the shoe, by athletes, children and people with weak ankles.
Annapolis uniform—see Cadet u.
Anthropometry—man-measurement; an essential tailoring study.
Apple-pie-order—in excellent condition; fine shape; neat and trim.
Apprentice—one who serves under another to learn a trade, art or profession, especially when indentured; usually a minor.
Apron—(1) a sort of loose overgarment, variously made, of fabric, leather, etc., worn to protect one’s clothes while at work; (2) the curtain or inside waist lining of trousers; (3) a sort of light drapery worn in hot countries around a hat or cap, covering the neck (see Havelock); (4) part of the regalia of certain secret societies; (5) a livery lap robe.
Apron checks—gingham woven in small, plain square checks.
Apron overalls—a style of o. made with a shield or apron covering breast of wearer.
Apron supporter—a sort of belt or adjustable strap for holding aprons (waiters, et al.) in place without slipping.
Arch support—a mechanical device made of metal or leather, or both, worn inside the shoe, immediately under the arch of the foot and conforming to the shape of the foot at this point, used as a support to prevent the falling of the arch or support a flat foot.
Arctics—warm-lined waterproof overshoes, usually with rubber soles and cloth tops, fastening with one or more buckles.
Arkansaw toothpick—see Bowie knife.
Arm band—an elastic band similar to a woman’s round garter, worn to hold up shirt sleeves.
Arm-head—see Shoulder h.
Arm-hole—the opening in a coat or shirt to which the sleeve is joined; the arm opening in a sleeveless waistcoat; the scye (qv).
Arm-pit—the axilla or cavity under the arm; compare Arm-hole and Scye.
Arm-scye—see Scye.
Armenian cloak—a fashionable overgarment of 1851, composed of one piece of cloth (except for the sewed-on wide turnover collar) and with no seams except the underarm seam of sleeve and the underarm body-join, the collar and front edges trimmed with velvet or wide braid, and the garment fastened at the neck with cord and tassels.
Armistice cloth—an effect in color combining; a sort of worsted cloth, variant of Queen’s mourning c. and of Coronation c., exhibiting Boer orange, royal blue and black with occasionally white or red; appeared about the time of conclusion of Boer war and named in commemoration thereof.
Armlet—(1) an ornamental band of classic times; (2) an elastic used for holding up shirt sleeves; (3) a piece of ancient armor.
Armor—defensiv paraphernalia worn by the knights and soldiery of medieval times and now manufactured for the benefit of those manufacturing an ancestry. English a. since the Norman conquest may be divided into 4 great groups: (1) mail a., worn until 1300; (2) mixt mail and plate a., worn from say 1301 to say 1410; (3) plate a., worn from about 1410 to almost 1600; (4) half a. (partial—these were the days they were learning to do without it) worn until say 1700. If interested further consult encyclopedia or other authoritativ work on the subject.
Armozine—a strong corded silk once used for waistcoats.
Armure—any cloth woven in miniature imitation of feudal metal armor-plates, heraldic devices, diamonds, birdseye and seeded effects; specifically (1) a twilled or cross-twilled fabric of silk or wool; (2) a manner of setting up loom harnesses to produce the wanted weave. The principal “armures” are (a) taffeta or 2 harness, forming a single interlacement; (b) serge or 3 harness; (c) twill or Batavia, 4 harness; and (d) satteen, 5 or more harnesses.
Army and navy brushes—better known as military b. (qv).
Army belt—a waist b. of stuft russet leather or pigskin, with detachable slings of same, worn by all officers (except chaplains) under the dress coat and overcoat and outside the service coat. In the field, cross belts over the shoulders for carrying saber and pistol are authorized. A b. of black webbing with detachable slings of stuft russet leather or pigskin may be worn under the dress coat. Full dress slings worn with full dress uniform, and russet or pigskin with all others.
Army brogan—see Brogan.
Army cap—see Dress c., Service c., White c., Full dress c.
Army facings—see Officers’ f.
Army hat—see Service h.
Army helmet—for officers and enlisted men, of white and khaki-colored materials; conforming to pattern in quartermaster’s dept.; worn in lieu of service cap with the service uniform on garrison duty and as otherwise prescribed; recently discontinued.
Army leggings—for officers, of stuft russet leather of strapputtee pattern; for enlisted men, of cotton, duck or canvas, laced, of the color of the service uniform.
Army stripes—see Trousers s.
Army officers’ cape—a circular c. of dark blue cloth reaching to the tips of the fingers, with a rolling collar of black velvet and closing at the throat with a long loop. Lined as follows: general officers and officers of staff corps and departments, dark blue; infantry officers, light blue; artillery officers, scarlet; cavalry officers, yellow. May be worn by all officers when not on duty with troops under arms.
Army overcoat—for officers: a double-breasted ulster of olive-drab woolen material, closing with 5 large horn buttons; deep standing collar; a large vertical pocket, opening thru lining, with outer flap, on each side; deep center vent; coat to reach 8 to 10 inches below knee, with back belt let into side seams, buttoning behind; a detachable hood of same material; bands of black braid on sleeves and other insignia according to rank. For enlisted men: of olive-drab woolen material, the general design and cut same as officers’ overcoats, bronze buttons.
Army shoes—for enlisted men: of black calfskin, blucher style for dress; of stufft russet grain calf, for marching; of russet leather, blucher style, for garrison; of brown cotton duck for barracks wear. For officers, high shoes of black calf, black enamel or black patent leather or of stuft russet leather.
Army trunk—any t. designed for army (or navy) officers’ use, commonly provided with trays and compartments for saber, hats, shoes, in addition to the usual provisions for suits of clothes, underwear, etc.
Army uniforms—see Full dress, Dress u., Service u., Fatigue u., et var; also general orders No. 169, August 14, 1907, et seq.
Arrowhead—same as Crowsfoot (qv).
Art fiber silk—proprietary term for artificial or wood s. (also called art s.), and articles made therefrom. See Artificial s.
Art silk—see Artificial s.
Articles—cant for a suit of clothes.
Artificial silk—a lustrous textil fabric, largely used for neckwear, chemically produced from wood cellulose, and then dyed, spun, and woven or knit; is easily injured by dampness or wet; its strength is said to be about 68% of that of pure s. and of about the same elasticity. Also called variously Art s., Textil(e) s., Wool s., etc.
Artillery pocket—the deadly hip p.
Artillery uniform—see Full dress, Dress u., Service u., Fatigue u., et var.
As had—as before; up to quality of previous purchases.
As is—as it stands; not perfect; not guaranteed; without liability for defects.
Asbestos—an excellent material for grave clothes.
Ascot—a cravat or neck dressing to be tied as a puff, once-over, waterfall, etc.
Assabet—a well-known American make of flannel (qv).
Astrakan—a woolen or silk material with a long and closely curled pile in imitation of the fur of that name. See below.
Astrakhan fur—the pelts of young lambs from the country of that name, usually black and very curly; used for making collars, muffs, coats, etc.
Atef crown—a high, conical headpiece or diadem of mythological symbolism; also worn by certain kings on ceremonial occasions.
Athletic pants—loose cotton knee trousers or trunks, with a fly or with elastic waistband.
Athletic shirt—a loose cotton s., cut low in the neck and either with deep open armholes or with short loose shoulder sleeves.
Athletic underwear—general name for light, loose undergarments; drawers usually cut knee length; shirts usually low neck and sleeveless, sometimes with deep armholes.
Atlas—a light, half-silk fabric glost on one side, chiefly used for linings.
Attar of roses—the fragrant, volatil, essential oil extracted from the petals of roses; used pure and as a base for many other perfumes.
Attleborough—trade term meaning “cheap jewelry”, which is largely made in Attleborough, Mass. See Brummagem.
Au rigueur—full ceremonious dress.
Auction sale—a merchandising fake, generally; if peripatetic an invariable fraud.
Aune—the old French unit of cloth measure (1¼ yards), now superseded by the metric system.
Australian wool—a term used commonly in the sense of exceptional quality or excellence and to distinguish Australian w. from that produced elsewhere. See Wool.
Automatics—trade term for worsted fabrics woven on automatic looms, in contradistinction to those requiring much personal attendance.
Automobile cap—a rain, dust and windproof c. for motor wear, with and without goggles.
Automobile cape—a leather or cloth c. for wear in automobiling.
Automobile coat—any c., especially an overcoat, designed for automobile wear, of style varying according to taste or requirements, but usually notable for amplitude of skirt, roominess, and the manner in which it is made to protect against wind, rain, cold, dust, etc.
Autumn weight—see Fall w.
B
Baboosh—a sort of slipper made with sole and vamp only, worn chiefly in Oriental countries.
Baby flannel—a light-weight all-wool fabric, usually plain woven, carefully finisht and bleacht white.
Baby lamb—see Persian l. and Broadtail.
Bachelor’s button—(1) a trouser’s b. with a self-clamping or riveting shank; (2) a flower of the centaurea or ranunculus family, worn in lapels by some exquisites.
Bachelor’s gown—a loose, flowing g. of black stuff, with hood and long pointed sleeves, having facings of colored material indicativ of the branch of learning.
Back—(1) of a garment, the rear part; (2) of a fabric, the underside. See Back part.
Back-and-fore stitch—a combination of back s. and running s., made by making a regular back s., but before withdrawing needle, letting it go thru again and repeat; usually employed when speed is desired, but greater strength needed than is afforded by regular running s. (qv).
Back fold—the plaits in the back of a frock or skirted coat.
Back order—a memorandum of goods due purchaser on original order, which was shipt in an incomplete state, owing to shortage of some of the items, which are placed on “back order”, to go forward as soon as received.
Back part—broadly, the behind part or rear of any garment; in coat making that part which joins the sidebody, as in a frock coat, or the forepart, as in a sack coat.
Back pockets—hip p., which garrisoned, are infinit sources of shock and trouble.
Back shop—a tailor’s workshop, on the premises.
Back stitch—considered the most important s. a tailor employs, made by taking a long s. forward and another of half the length back; a very strong and flexible s., used for sewing waist seams, inseams, sleeves, etc.
Back strap—see Heel s.
Backing—(1) the under-web of double or faced cloth; (2) the refuse from wool or flax dressing.
Backt cloth—technically, a single fabric with a series of threads so woven on the under surface as to form almost a distinct layer of c., yet in close combination with the face fabric, the object being a gain in weight or bulk, or the appearance of it; one series of warp and weft only is employed. Usually worsteds and cheap overcoatings. Loosely called Double c., French back, etc. (qv). Compare Thru-and-thru. (Backed c.)
Badge—a mark, token or decoration.
Badger—an animal of the melinae sub-family, the hide of which is used for robes, etc., the hair for shaving brushes and other brushes.
Badger whiskers—a form of facial artistry, prescribed by Hon. Geo. E. Badger, Secretary of the Navy, in 1841, to the effect that no part of a sailor’s beard should be worn long except the whiskers, and that they should not descend more than an inch below the ears and then in a line with the mouth.
Bag-and-baggage—all one’s movable Lares and Penates.
Bag breeches—knickerbockers (qv) are sometimes so called—tho incorrectly.
Bag gloves—see Punching b. g.
Bag tag—a t. usually of leather and variously made, for attaching to hand luggage, and which contains the owner’s name, address, etc.
Bag wig—a w. with a bag to hold the back hair.
Baggage—trunks, valises, bundles, and the like, taken on a journey and containing one’s wardrobe, toilet conveniences, etc.; luggage.
Baggage examiners’ uniform—see Custom’s officers’ u.
Bagged—tailoring term indicating that the edges of a coat were sewed by machine all around from the wrong side and then turned; also that the lining of a coat was first fitted to the garment in its several parts, then sewed up, after which it and the coat were sewed together inside out, except at the neck, much like a turn-sole shoe, and turned and presst, the neck being finisht by hand.
Bagged—distended, bulged, misshapen, thru wear or neglect, as knees of trousers in need of pressing.
Bags—slang for trousers.
Baize—a plain-worn, plain colored, slightly napt woolen fabric, formerly used for clothing, but now more coarsely woven and used for draperies, etc.
Balance—the hang or drape of a coat. Compare Not balanced.
Balance measure—tailoring term for a m. taken from the collar seam at back center, running in front of arm to back center at natural waist point. Not much in use at present.
Balbriggan—trade term for unbleacht cotton underwear and hosiery; from Balbriggan, Ireland, where first made.
Baldrick—a sash or belt, often richly ornamented, usually worn over the shoulder and diagonally across the breast, to support sword, bugle, powder flasks, etc.
Baldy—a colloquial vulgarism for a baldheaded man.
Bale—a bundle or package.
Baleine—whalebone.
Ball—the widest part of the foot, or of a shoe, or of the sole thereof; the tread.
Ballet shirt—a plainly made, loose white cotton blouse, susceptible of being worn with almost any costume; often made with a wide, turned down collar; a distinctiv garment for members of the chorus, male and female; also called “chorus shirt”.
Balling—top making; one of the processes of manufacturing worsted yarn. See Tops.
Balmoral—(1) a striped woolen stuff, heavy and durable; (2) a kind of Scotch cap; (3) a shoe lacing in front. See Laced shoe.
Bals—trade diminutiv for balmoral, or laced shoe.
Bamboo—a kind of reed-wood, hollow, and very light, but elastic and tough; used for walking sticks, baskets, etc.
Band—a trimming or finishing part of a garment or other article of dress, usually a strip of material sewed into place.
Band bow—a readymade bow tie with a band passing around the collar and fastening at some point, usually at the back.
Band box—a light paper or wooden b., round, square or oval, used for carrying or storing hats, millinery, etc.; so called because used for bands and ruffs in 17th century.
Band teck—a readymade neck scarf for wear with lay-down collar. See Band bow and Teck.
Band top—the welted wrist finish of a glove.
Band uniforms—(army) the general uniforms of their regiments or corps, with allowable ornaments to the dress and full dress uniforms of officers; black lynx-skin shakos with plume and tassel of color of corps or arm of service, with leather chinstraps with brass scales and side-buttons, for drum-majors on full dress occasions; those for cavalry drum-majors being smaller than those for other arms; batons as per pattern, with silk cords and tassels of color of corps or arms of service for dismounted drum-majors only; those with mounted bands carrying sabers; belts, chevrons, stripes, etc., as per regulations.
Bandage—a temporary article of attire locally bestowed; a surgical dressing.
Bandana—a large, bright-colored handkerchief with spots or figures kept free from dye by local pressure in the dying process, or as in later use freed by chemical extraction or bleaching. Originally a Hindustani mode of dyeing in which hard knots were tied in the cloth before dipping. When opened the fabric has a speckled appearance, the dye having left the tied parts free from color. See Extracted and Batik.
Bandboxy—neat, smart, newish.
Banded turban—a plain-sided, plain-topt cap with a pull-down-and-roll-up band.
Banding—in shirt collar making the process of sewing the b., if there is one, to the collar proper; also applied to sewing of cuffs.
Bandmaster’s uniform—(navy) see Dress, Undress, Working dress, and variations.
Bands—(1) the collars or ruffs of 16th and 17th centuries; (2) the linen strips or tabs pendant from the front of a clerical or academical collar or neckdressing.
Bandsmen’s full dress coat—(navy) see Full dress c.
Bandsmen’s helmet—(navy) black, the same as for enlisted men of the marine corps, including spike, spike base and chin strap, with device of the service, etc.
Bandsmen’s trousers—(navy) for bandmaster, of sky-blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side pockets, with a welted edge stripe of scarlet cloth 1 in. wide down the outer seams; for musicians, the same except with a 3–16 in. welt of scarlet cloth.
Bandsmen’s uniform—(navy) see Dress, Undress, Working dress; (marine corps) Special full dress, Full dress, Undress; (army) Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u. Also variants.
Bang up—first-rate.
Bangs—a fringy feminin way of dressing the front hair; Ann Arbor boys once astonisht a respectable nation by their adoption. See also portraits of William Walter Phelps and Elihu Root.
Banian—a sailor’s colored frock. Probably a similar garment as described in banyan (qv).
Bankrupt—can’t pay.
Bannockburn—a sort of tweed (qv) from a town of that name near Glasgow, Scotland; also variously applied to fancy suitings made elsewhere in England and America.
Banyan—an oriental style of neglige gown, not unlike a kimono, much affected in colonial days, often very elaborate in material, color and trimmings; a dressing gown.
Baptismal gown—a plain g. without collar and with wideopen flowing sleeves, of black serge or cord or waterproof stuff.
Baptismal pants—(ought to be called b. trousers) a variety of rubber wading p., (ought to be called w. trousers) with attacht boots, worn just once by those whose faith is in baptism by immersion—but of course oftener by the officiating clerygyman.
Baptismal sleeves—of gossamer rubber, for covering and protecting the coat sleeves under the gown.
Bar end—trade term for buttonholes finished with a straight tack or bar at right angles to the opening; most used in the collar trade. See below.
Bar tack—an ornamental strengthening finish at the ends of pockets, vents, etc. See B. t. stitch and Crowsfoot.
Bar tack stitch—in staying the ends of pockets, several long perpendicular stitches are first taken at the ends to be protected; then these are tackt down to the cloth at intervals by crosswise stitches and finally smoothly covered on themselves, by closely laid over-and-under stitches of the thread.
Barathea—general name for armure weave silk.
Barber—a human talking machine.
Barber’s coat—a short jacket worn by barbers while at work; usually of white duck (tho sometimes black venetian or alpaca), commonly single-breasted with gilt buttons.
Bareface finish—weaving term indicating that the nap is sheared off completely. Compare dress faced, Scotch f., Velvet f.
Barefoot sandals—a name sometimes given to sole leather s. worn by small children, sometimes with stockings, but more properly with barefeet, heelless, fastened with straps and usually having cut-out designs in front. Also called scrappers.
Bargain—“at a good bargain pause awhile”, especially in these latter days.
Bark—see Tanbark.
Barker—a gent who stands outside of cheap clothing shops of the Baxter street type to “persuade” (any way) passers-by to enter and purchase; a type of worker higher toned merchants are endeavoring to suppress.
Barlow—the single-bladed jacknife we thought the world of when we were kids.
Barndoor trousers—vernacular for front falls (qv).
Baroque pearl—an irregular shaped fresh water p.
Barrackan—in Mediterranean countries a camels-hair cloth for men’s wear; in England a sort of moleskin; same as barragon (qv).
Barracks shoes—(army) for enlisted men; of brown cotton duck; worn in barracks only.
Barragon—a light-weight corded woolen stuff (of about 1750) originally of camels-hair. Probably same as barrackan (qv).
Barrel—the knot of a folded four-in-hand, teck or similar scarf.
Barrel top—trade term for trunks made with a convext top.
Barring—a method of re-enforcing or strengthening certain points in the upper of a shoe by peculiar stitches inserted where desired by a b. or stitching machine, the b. or re-enforcing stitches being located mostly at the point in the upper where the vamp and top and tongue come together at the so-called throat point of the shoe. The corners of a blucher shoe where they lap onto the vamp are re-enforced by extra stitching called b.; also Oxford shoes at the top of the heel seam are usually re-enforced either by this method or an extra piece of leather.
Barrow coat—a garment made for us before we are born—a good example of readymade guess-fits; specifically a square or oblong piece of flannel, gathered at one end into a band, wrapped around an infant’s body below the arms, the loose hanging part being turned up around the feet; also called Pinning blanket.
B’ar’s grease—once a popular hair slickener.
Barvell—a coarse leather apron used by workmen and fishermen; name practically obsolete.
Baseball—a periodical deterrent of attention to business; a summer complaint afflicting the boss quite as seriously as the office boy, who is especially subject to all influences of this sort.
Baseball gloves—stout g. of various shapes worn by baseball players.
Baseball mask—a sort of birdcage worn by catchers and umpires as a protector of pulchritude.
Baseball shoes—soft leather or canvas s., three-quarters high, laced well down to the toes, with low heels and with metal plates, spikes or cleats on soles and heels for safety and surety in running.
Baseman’s mitt—a sort of cushioned leather mitten used in playing baseball—of course!
Basillard—an old term for a poniard.
Basket cloth—c. woven in imitation of interlaced or plaited basket or straw work; an effect produced solely by disposition of warp and weft threads and not by colors of the yarn. See B. weave.
Basket hilt—a wide guard or cover continued up the hilt of a cutlas, protecting nearly the whole hand from injury.
Basket weave—a plain w. in which two or more threads in both the direction of warp and of filling are found together, giving a coarser appearance of weave as if squared or plaited.
Bastard—any fabric woven in imitation of better and more expensiv goods.
Baste—to sew loosely together or fasten temporarily in place with long irregular stitches.
Basting puller—in clothing manufacture a workman (either gender) who does nothing but draw out threads.
Basting stitches—temporary s. holding two or more pieces of material together until the work is done. Usually a long running stitch or a slight side stitch.
Bastings—left in a garment are said by the drivelly facetious to mean that you have not paid the maker’s bill.
Bat (to)—a process of cleansing soiled linen by beating, and not by rubbing as is usual with most laundresses.
Bat bag—a b. of canvas, leather or both, for carrying baseball bats.
Batavia—see Armure.
Bath coating—“like Mr. Brummel wears”; term not now in use and the particular goods not identified.
Bath mat—a rug of heavy cotton terry or rag carpeting for the bather to stand on after emerging from tub.
Bath mitten—a m. of knitted wool, terry toweling, etc., for bathing purposes.
Bath robe—a long gown for wear between bath-room and dressing room, also for bed-room lounging.
Bath sheet—an extra large bath towel used as a towel or as a substitute for the bath robe.
Bath slipper—a s. with sole and vamp, but no counter or heel, the vamp usually of material used for bath robes; a mule.
Bath strap—see Rubbing s.
Bath towel—a large t. of cotton or linen terry.
Bathing belt—a b. of canvas or other suitable material with which modestly to sustain one’s bathing trunks.
Bathing suit—knee tights and a long sleeveless shirt; also a similar one-piece garment; usually made of knitted cotton or worsted.
Bathing trunks—a tight-fitting knitted garment covering the person from the waist to the upper part of the thighs.
Batik—name given to results in dyeing by which the pattern or design is in black or of different color or colors than the ground color, achieved in many ways, as (1) mordanting, (2) bleaching, (3) acid treatment, (4) tying and drying, (5) wax overlays, etc. Name properly designates only the primitiv East Indian processes. See Bandana, Crossdye, Extracted, Resist dye, etc.
Bating—a process in the preparation of leather following upon that of liming, for the purposes of reducing swellings or thickenings and for cleansing of grease or other impurities, dog’s dung and warm water being the agents mostly employed.
Batiste—a fine linen or cotton cloth similar to lawn or cambric.
Batten—in weaving the motion of pushing one weft thread up close to that one previously thrown in.
Batting—cotton or wool prepared in sheets for quilting or interlining. See Padding.
Batts—laced low shoes; term obsolete.
Batwing—a shaped tie for wear with high-banded folded collars.
Baudekin—a silk and gold fabric of the middle ages.
Baum wolle—German for “vegetable wool” or, in plain English, cotton. Fonetically used by irreverent salesmen in cheap clothing establishments and by knowing customers in the sense of “bum wool”.
Baxter street—a street in New York city once famous for its small Hebrew clothing shops and their rather peremptory ways of inducing customers to step inside and purchase; a synonym for cheap clothing and disreputable methods.
Bay rum—an aromatic toilet water on which the barber makes a corking profit.
Bayadere—weaving term for stripes running across the fabric from side to side.
Beach robe—a sort of dressing gown for wear over bathing clothes, constructed of light material, usually like an ulster overcoat in style.
Beachman—a person on the coast of Africa who acts as interpreter to shipmasters and assists them in conducting trade.
Beading—see Heel seat wheeling; also Wheeling.
Beam—a horizontal cylindrical bar, in a loom, upon which warp or woven goods are wound.
Bear—a large plantigrade ursoid carnivore, especially of the genus Ursus, the pelts of which are used for driving coats, coat linings, gloves, carriage robes, etc.
Beard—stubble, toughest in illness.
Beards—envied by men who can’t grow them; variously known as Vandyke b., English b., hammer b., cathedral b., mouse eaten b., pique-divant b., Methodist b., spike b., parted b.—but you’d better read Planche, Earle, et al., or see a barber.
Bearing cloth—a christening robe, usually richly embroidered.
Bear’s grease—hair-slobber stuff.
Bearskin—(1) the fur headdress of the footguards of the British army; (2) vernacular for the tall fur cap or shako worn by drum-majors for feminin envy and conquest; (3) a shaggy woolen stuff for outer wear; (4) a coat or robe made of the skin of a bear.
Beating the booby—(nautical) swinging the arms from side to side to create a warmth by accelerating the circulation of the blood.
Beatty cape—a measuring and drafting device for tailors (from name of inventor). See Measuring c.
Beau—a man devoted to the care and adornment of his person and to matters of social etiquet; a dandy, a fop, a lady’s man.
Beau monde—the fashionable world.
Beau peruke—see Wig.
Beauty sleep—such sleep as one can get before midnight.
Beaver—a heavy, double-woven, smooth-faced woolen overcoating, woven with two sets of wefts, face and back, the former of the finer wool, fulled, napt and sheared to a high degree, producing a smooth, close, dense surface; the back usually finisht with a loose, soft nap. The range of quality from finest to coarsest is very great. In general, resembling Kersey, tho less firm.
Beaver—a sort of flat-lying heavy silk plush used for a chapeaux and formerly for those famous plug hats of “the good old days”.
Beaver—nowadays slang for any tall hat of silk or felt; less than 100 years ago a tall hat of heavy napt plush; originally any hat made of beaver fur.
Beaver—a movable piece of armor, attacht to the helmet, covering the lower part of the face.
Beaver—a casteroid rodent whose pelt is largely used in the manufacture of fur garments, hats, etc.
Beaverteen—a heavy twilled solid color cotton fabric, a sort of fustian, napt on the back, shorn after being dyed; used for hunting garments.
Bed canopy—a drapery of mosquito netting.
Bed pocket—an ornamental bag or pouch for watch, handkerchief, dope, etc., hung at the head of the bed; not in widespread use.
Bed slippers—ungainly things of very warm material worn by persons of poor circulation.
Bed socks—for cold feet.
Bedeck—to cover with ornaments or adorn—oh, vanity!
Bedford cord—a worsted fabric with heavy rounded ribs or cords running in the direction of the warp; a favorit cloth for riding trousers, livery wear, etc.
Beetling—a mechanical process for soft-finishing certain kinds of cotton and linen goods.
Beige—(1) the color of undyed, unbleacht wool; (2) a light-weight, plain fabric of such wool; also called debeige.
Bell—see Flare, also Spring.
Bell—the side of a cap, especially of uniform style.
Bell bottoms—vernacular for sailor’s wide-mouthed trousers.
Bell-mouth—flared at the opening, as sailor’s trousers, bell-sleeves, etc.
Belled—flared.
Belled-skirt—a flaring s.
Bellows pocket—an outside or patch p. made with an extension strip or bellows-fold around sides and bottom, making such p. larger and more capacious than the flat patch p., and especially adapted to shooting or hunting jackets. A variety of bellows p. is made by means of an open box plait in the center thereof, permitting stuffing.
Bellows suit case—a s. c. (qv) having one or both sides bellowed by means of extendible folds for extra capacity.
Bellows tongue—a t. fastened to both sides of the opening in a laced shoe and not left free as ordinary tongues.
Belly button—not an article of apparel.
Belly doublet—a d. covering the belly.
Bellyband—a band of woolen or silk material worn by babies.
Belongings—synonym for “property”, in which sense it is a survival of old English usage; often employed as euphemism for “trousers” by the prudishly inclined.
Belt—(1) a band or girdle of leather or other material, worn to sustain trousers in place without the aid of suspenders; (2) a b. worn with uniforms in army, navy, police and fire departments, and by various societies, for dress, for carrying sword, club, etc.; (3) a sash or band, more or less ornate, worn by pugilists to awe each other and mark the line between fair and unfair punches. See Championship b.
Belt loops—l. or straps sewn at intervals around the waist band of trousers, for the insertion and holding in place of a belt, the object being to sustain the trousers without the use of suspenders.
Bench—(1) a table that journeymen tailors squat upon while working; (2) a small table or stand holding a shoemaker’s tools.
Bench-made—a term used to describe “bespoken”, as the English call it, or custom handmade shoes. Before the advent of machinery, when shoes were all made by hand, the workmen sat along on benches and each workman made a complete shoe, performing all the operations. They were, therefore, called b-m. and the term today is used to designate handmade or custom-made shoes as compared with factory or all-machine-made shoes.
Bend—leather trade term for the hinder-part of the hide, used especially in connection with sole leather, this particular portion being the firmest, toughest, closest-fibered part.
Bengaline—general term for silk and woolen fabrics with a repp or corded effect produced by using a heavy, soft-spun woolen (or cotton) weft closely covered in the weaving with the silk (or wool) warp threads so as not to be exposed when finisht; also woven with wide, irregular or knobby ribs (especially in silk).
Benjamin—an overcoat once fashionable in England, invented by a tailor of that name.
Benny—slang for overcoat.
Benzine—good to eradicate grease spots. See Slob.
Berretta—see Biretta.
Berlin—trade term for fabric gloves of cotton in contradistinction to gloves of silk, lisle or wool.
Berlin toe—in shoemaking one of the many names for a narrow toe.
Bespoke—“English” for clothes tailored to order.
Best seller—that which makes the most profit for the dealer and, usually, shows the poor taste of his customers.
Betrothal ring—a r. that sometimes comes back.
Betweens—see Needle.
Bezel—a facet of a gem; a seal, as of a ring, fob, etc.; a flat engraved gold seal.
Bias—diagonally.
Bib—a drizzle shield.
Bib top—trade term applied to overalls made with a sort of apron partially covering the breast.
Bicycle hose—stout woolen or cotton stockings, knee length or longer.
Bicycle shoe—a high or low s., with front lacing nearly to the toe, and with a low heel, the inner corner of which is beveled off to prevent contact with pedaling gear.
Bicycle stocking—same as b. hose.
Bicycle tights—just t., but quite heavy.
Bicycle trousers—knickerbockers with re-enforced seats.
Bifocal spectacles—s. the lenses of which have a smaller lense adhering to the larger, permitting different ranges of vision. Compare Compound s.
Bifurcated—divided from a point into two divisions—trousers, for instance.
Bilbo—an old term for a flexible kind of cutlas from Bilboa, where the best Spanish sword blades were made.
Bilboes—bolts and shackles used by the Spanish to confine the legs of prisoners.
Biled rag—see Boiled shirt.
Bill—generally an unwelcome reminder of a thoughtlessly incurred obligation.
Bill book—a wallet for banknotes and papers.
Billy—a thug’s sleep producer.
Billycock—Briticism for a bowler or derby (hat), which see (corrupted from William Coke, Earl of Norfolk, who introduced the hat to popularity.) Also see Bowler.
Billygoat whiskers—long, spiky chinbeard.
Binding—any tape or braid used to secure or decorate the edges of a garment or any article of apparel.
Birdcage—slang for umpire’s mask.
Birdseye—a small diamond-shaped pattern or effect; name given to various clear-finisht fabrics so woven; armor.
Biretta—a square cap of silk or velvet with three ridges extending outward from the center of the top or four in case of doctors of divinity; also worn by the Anglican and Lutheran ministry, the latter being much plainer. A smoking cap is also so-called.
Birthday attire—ideal for hot weather.
Birthday suit—public display punishable by fine.
Bishop—trade term for extra-length overcoats for tall men.
Bishop’s lawn—a variety of lawn (qv) originally made for clerical vestments.
Bit—12½ cents; a shilling; two-bits, 25c.; six-bits, 75c., etc. These expressions are still used in the southwest.
B. L.—overheard by bowlegged men on being measured for trousers.
Black amber—jet (qv).
Black cap—(1) a plain black silk cap assumed by judges of some criminal courts when pronouncing sentence of death; (2) a sort of bag covering the entire head of the condemned, rendering him semi-oblivious of his surroundings immediately prior to strangulation.
Blacking set—a box or stand containing shoe polishing materials.
Blacksnake—a tapering, flexible whip of black leather, used by carters and sometimes on unruly urchins; name from resemblance to a blacksnake.
Blade—the standing portion of a folded (shirt) collar; more particularly the ends that meet in front.
Blade—the shoulder b. See B. measure.
Blade measure—in tailoring a measure taken from middle of back to front of arm scye at level thereof under the arm.
Blanket—a sheet of loosely woven heavy woolen cloth, or wool-and-cotton, usually with a nap, used for a bed covering, a garment, or to cover a horse.
Blanket—in textil designing an experimental strip or length of fabric (usually 1 to 2 yards), made up of anywhere from 2 to 100 or more variations of a design or designs, ranging from dark to light color effects, changes of color being accomplisht in the loom by changing the shuttles after every few inches of each sample. These “blankets” are passed upon by designers and stylists to determin the particular patterns to be adopted; often not over 4 or 5 are chosen from a large b.
Blanks—in button making the discs of ivory or other material not pierced or colored.
Blarney—idle discourse; obsequious flattery.
Blarney tweed—an unusually fine grade of tweed suitings manufactured by Mahoney Bros., a famous mill in the north of Ireland. (Mahoney pronounced Marney.)
Blather—idle nonsense.
Blazer—a light unlined summer coat, most frequently of flannel, and in bright parti-colors.
Bleach—see Bleaching.
Bleachery—a place where textil fabrics are bleacht, whether by chemical processes or by exposure on a lawn.
Bleaching—any process of freeing textil fabrics or fibers from their natural color; or whitening.
Bleaching powder—usually or largely chlorin.
Bleacht muslin—whitened; usually of finer weave than unbleacht or brown m. (Bleached.)
Blended—furrier’s term for furs so arranged as to form a sort of shaded pattern.
Bliaus—early spelling of blouse.
Blind edge—see Plain e.
Blind eye—a strongly workt but nearly invisible silk loop or eye used in connection with hooks for fastening garments, preferable to more conspicuous metal eyes or catches.
Blind fly—a placket fastening, the outer edge of which is closed instead of open as in the ordinary trousers f.; mostly used on overcoats and also known as box f. and French f. See Fly.
Blind pocket—any concealed p.; oftenest a small p. on the inside of the waistband of the trousers—perhaps less as a protection against footpads than one’s wife.
Blind stitch—to s. in such a way that the stitches don’t show.
Bliss tweeds—peculiar sort of t., slightly resembling whipcord, made by Wm. Bliss & Sons, Chipping Norton, Eng., rated the finest known and extensivly employed for fine livery and stable wear.
Block—see Tailor’s b.
Block—the general style, lines, dimensions, etc., of a hat.
Block patterns—tailoring term for (1) conventionalized patterns used by tailors as a working basis, individual differences being added or subtracted as necessary; it is claimed that as perfect fitting garments are produced this way as by drafting separately—and many more of them per day; (2) similar patterns used by clothing manufacturers, from which no variations are made, the style being as per pattern, and sizes being conventionalized—necessarily. A method of garment drafting based on the principle that like causes produce like effects, which is to say, a pattern having fitted one man of a given size and attitude, it would fit any other man of identical proportions and posture; and by proper variation, as required, would fit a man differing in some respect, thus saving a special drafting. Block p. are in wide use at the present day as time savers, a complete range of sizes for each style of garment usually being carried.
Block toes—in shoemaking, t. made with stiffened leather, so as not to crease.
Blocking—a process in hat manufacture wherein the sized cones are given shape, the crowns and brims being carefully stretched and blocked out.
Blood—a gallant.
Blood—the finest wool is that of full-blooded merino sheep; the terms ½-b., ⅜-b., ¼-b., etc., refer to that standard and are coarser in a descending scale. See Wool.
Bloody shirt—fortunately not a washable article, but a term of reproach reminiscent of Civil War amenities.
Bloom—the lustrous effect given to broadcloth, alpaca and other fabrics by pressing.
Bloomers—Zouave trousers appropriated by women during the late bicycle craze.
Blouse—(1) a short, loose shirt or frock, usually of linen or cotton, with or without belt; (2) a loose jacket or body coat, of military wear; (3) the characteristic garment of Chinamen—need a description?
Blouse collar—same as Prussian c.
Blow of cotton—a Southern phrase, employed when the pods of the cotton plant burst; from the old English “blowth”, a blossoming.
Blucher—a peculiar style or pattern used in cutting the upper of a laced shoe—having tops lapping together at the throat and not joined together as in plain lace shoes.
Blue—the color supposed to exercise a gracious influence over the budding destinies of, and to be especially becoming and appropriate to, boy babies as, conversely, pink is for girls.
Blue—see Wool.
Blue book—broadly, a directory of les noveaux riches.
Blue dress coat—(navy) for chief petty officers, except bandmasters, a 4-button double-breasted sack coat of dark blue cloth with 3 outside pockets (2 lower, 1 breast) with flaps, the coat worn buttoned; for officers’ stewards and officers’ cooks, the same except with black buttons instead of gilt.
Blue jackets—navy seamen as distinguisht from the marines.
Blue pencil—supposed to be specially efficacious in marking down prices for a “sale”.
Blue undress coat—(navy) for chief petty officers except bandmasters, same as blue dress c., but of flannel or serge.
Blue working dress—(navy) see Working d.
Bluestocking—not an article of attire, but a Bostonprig.
Bluff edge—in tailoring a variety of plain e. (qv) not made by hand, but by first sewing the edges of garment together wrong side out, then turning and pressing flat without other finish; a cheap substitute for felled or prickt edges (qv).
Bluff try-on—not a real one, just a bluff. See Dummy t. (Tailoring term.)
Blunderbuss—a short fire arm with a large bore and a wide mouth.
Blunts—see Needle.
Boarded calf—see below.
Boarding—a term used in the leather trade, denoting a process of making leather supple and raising the grain after shaving, dyeing, etc., by doubling it with the flesh side in and working the folds back and forth by a graining board.
Boarding officer’s uniform—see Custom officer’s u.
Boardwalk—the ocean promenade at Atlantic City, where, in season, and on Easter Sunday particularly, those who have them proceed to strut up and down showing off their new clothes.
Boat cloak—a cape or mantle for use of (naval) officers in a (small) boat.
Boater—British for the stiff, straight-brimmed straw hat known here as “yacht” shape. See Straw hat.
Boatswain’s uniform—(navy) see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Undress, Service dress; (revenue cutter service) Full dress, Service dress. See also variations.
Bob—see Bob-wig and Wig.
Bobbin—a slender spool or reel used in the shuttle of a loom, conveying the weft or filling.
Bob-jerom—a bob wig.
Bobtailed—short tailed—give it any application you fancy.
Bob-wig—a small or medium size w. of the time of George II; specifically, minor b.-w. and major b.-w., the latter with several rows of curls.
Bodkin—a needle-like instrument for piercing holes in cloth, or for drawing tape thru hems, etc.
Body-coat—a dress c.; an under-c.; a close-fitting c.; a livery c.
Body-cover—cant for coat.
Bogus—counterfeit or of inferior quality, as manipulated cloth.
Boil out—trade term indicating the quality of a piece of goods, as “this will boil out”, meaning if woolen, the goods will in the boiling potash test resolve into nothing without trace of cotton or similar non-boilable adulterant. See Boiling-o. test.
Boiled off—commercial term for Shantung silk, to distinguish from silk “in the gum”.
Boiled shirt—inelegant for a white shirt with stiff linen bosom.
Boiling-out test—a means employed to determin the quality of suspected woolen or silk fabrics, a piece of the goods being boiled in a solution of potash, in which the wool or silk is consumed, but any cotton therein remains. See also Acid t. and Cotton cheat.
Bolt—a rolled or folded quantity of goods, of various yardage, according to the fabric or material. Cloth usually runs 40 to 60 yards to the b.
Bombast—cotton or other material of soft, loose texture, employed for padding garments; wadding.
Bombazine—a light, plain woven fabric of silk warp and worsted weft, used for mourning.
Bonbon—general trade term for fine lisle and balbriggan underwear and hosiery manufactured by C. & G. Bonbon et Cie, Troyes, France; also C. Bonbon et Cie, Paris.
Bone—journeyman tailors’ term for a peculiar hard feeling noticeable in the handling of certain kinds of cloths, as heavy overcoatings and experienct especially in working the needle thru; as, “it has a bone in it”.
Bonnet—a Scotch cap.
Book muslin—a thin, glazed, starch-filled cotton fabric, often mechanically crinkled, used for cheap cap linings, etc.
Boon—the woody core of flax.
Boot—a leather or other foot covering differing from a shoe (qv) in that it reaches usually to the knee or above. In England the word boot is synonymous with our word shoe.
Boot—a leather or rubber-cloth flap fastened to the front or dashboard of a carriage or coach and drawn up over the lap of the rider as a protection against rain, etc.
Bootblack—an irreverent urchin who “shines” the fronts of your shoes, but forgets the heels.
Boot-hook—an implement to pull boots on with.
Boot-hose—spatterdashes; stirrup h.
Boot-jack—a wooden or metal contrivance for engaging the heel of a boot while the wearer drags himself out therefrom.
Boot-last—same as b.-tree.
Boot-lick—a flunkey; a hanger-on; one who cringes and flatters to obtain favors.
Boot powder—powdered soapstone to make tight boots go on easier.
Boot slippers—light, soft leather feet for wear inside of rubber boots.
Boot-straps—the loops sewed in the back part of boots for the purpose of pulling them on.
Boot stud—a small, steel roset having prominent sharp points at right angles to the back; used by golf players and others for surety of footing; 8 to 12 are required for a pair of boots, affixt by screws or cleats.
Boot-tree—a stretcher for shaping boots when not in use.
Bootee—an infant’s knit woolen foot covering.
Bootmaker—Briticism for what we call shoemaker.
Boots—a servant, usually a boy or young man, at an inn, hotel, club, etc., who blacks boots and performs other small services for guests.
Bosom—the front or display part of a shirt, specifically known according to style, shape, etc., as dress b., puff b., shield b., plaited b., etc.
Botany—trade diminutiv for the line of cloths made by the Botany mills, Passaic, N. J. A peculiarity of these goods is that they closely approximate fine imported goods, being woven by German workmen (mostly) on imported German looms.
Botch work—bungled.
Bottle coat—a proprietary term for a certain style of form fitting overcoat. (1907.)
Bottle nest—a leather case with 3 or 4 bottles snugly fitted; for the spiritual refreshment of travelers.
Bottom—trousers seat.
Bottom facing—in tailoring the strip of goods turned up within or sewed on along the inside of a garment, as of a vest or coat.
Boucle—an irregular curly-faced fabric, the effect being produced by the use of a two-ply yarn in which one thread is wound around the other and drawn to make curls or loops at uneven distances; properly a rough, lobby, sort of “worsted cheviot”, tho frequently made with a jersey or stockinet body.
Boughten—past participle of “to buy”, in which the archaic termination is still preserved; like gotten, putten, etc., serving to distinguish shop-bought goods from home manufactures.
Bound-edge—in tailoring, covered or bound with braid; for this purpose edges of the garment itself are often left raw. See Flat b., Half-and-half-b., Narrow b.
Bounder—English slang for one who dresses in bad taste, or whose manners, etc., are offensiv; a “cheap dude”.
Bouquet hole—the buttonhole in a coat lapel.
Bourre—a sort of silk shoddy.
Bourette—a woolen cloth with lumps or knobs at intervals over its surface, an effect produced by manipulation of warp and weft yarns before weaving.
Bournous—a long woolen cloak with hood, worn by men in the Orient.
Boutonniere—a little bunch of flowers; the principal excuse for the lapel buttonhole.
Bow—that part of a pair of spectacles clasping the temple or engaging behind the ear.
Bow tie—a t. tied in a bowknot.
Bowback—rather humped.
Bowie knife—a long, formidable weapon, sometimes over a foot in length and two inches broad, worn by hunters and desperadoes in the wilder and more unsettled parts of the Union. One kind is facetiously called Arkansas toothpick. The term “bowie” was derived from a notorious character, Colonel Jim Bowie.
Bowk—a step in the process of cotton bleaching, being boiling in weak lye.
Bowlegged—parenthetical.
Bowler—the common English name for the derby hat, from the name of the hatter who invented it. See also Billycock.
Box calf—a trademark or fancy name for boarded c. (qv).
Box cloth
