A guide to modern cookery E-Book

A. Escoffier

• Herausgeber: Librorium Editions
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2023

Beschreibung

If the art of Cookery in all its branches were not undergoing a process of evolution, and if its canons could be once and for ever fixed, as are those of certain scientific operations and mathematical procedures, the present work would have no raison d’être; inasmuch as there already exist several excellent culinary text-books in the English language. But everything is so unstable in these times of progress at any cost, and social customs and methods of life alter so rapidly, that a few years now suffice to change completely the face of usages which at their inception bade fair to outlive the age—so enthusiastically were they welcomed by the public.

Leseprobe

A GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

BYA. ESCOFFIEROF THE CARLTON HOTEL

© 2023 Librorium Editions

ISBN : 9782385743086

PREFACE

If the art of Cookery in all its branches were not undergoing a process of evolution, and if its canons could be once and for ever fixed, as are those of certain scientific operations and mathematical procedures, the present work would have no raison d’être; inasmuch as there already exist several excellent culinary text-books in the English language. But everything is so unstable in these times of progress at any cost, and social customs and methods of life alter so rapidly, that a few years now suffice to change completely the face of usages which at their inception bade fair to outlive the age—so enthusiastically were they welcomed by the public.

In regard to the traditions of the festal board, it is but twenty years ago since the ancestral English customs began to make way before the newer methods, and we must look to the great impetus given to travelling by steam traction and navigation, in order to account for the gradual but unquestionable revolution.

In the wake of the demand came the supply. Palatial hotels were built, sumptuous restaurants were opened, both of which offered their customers luxuries undreamt of theretofore in such establishments.

Modern society contracted the habit of partaking of light suppers in these places, after the theatres of the Metropolis had closed; and the well-to-do began to flock to them on Sundays, in order to give their servants the required weekly rest. And, since restaurants allow of observing and of being observed, since they are eminently adapted to the exhibiting of magnificent dresses, it was not long before they entered into the life of Fortune’s favourites.

But these new-fangled habits had to be met by novel methods of Cookery—better adapted to the particular environment in which they were to be practised. The admirable productions popularised by the old Masters of the Culinary Art of the preceding Century did not become the light and more frivolous atmosphere of restaurants; were, in fact, ill-suited to the brisk waiters, and their customers who only had eyes for one another.

The pompous splendour of those bygone dinners, served in the majestic dining-halls of Manors and Palaces, by liveried footmen, was part and parcel of the etiquette of Courts and lordly mansions.

It is eminently suited to State dinners, which are in sooth veritable ceremonies, possessing their ritual, traditions, and—one might even say—their high priests; but it is a mere hindrance to the modern, rapid service. The complicated and sometimes heavy menus would be unwelcome to the hypercritical appetites so common nowadays; hence the need of a radical change not only in the culinary preparations themselves, but in the arrangements of the menus, and the service.

Circumstances ordained that I should be one of the movers in this revolution, and that I should manage the kitchens of two establishments which have done most to bring it about. I therefore venture to suppose that a book containing a record of all the changes which have come into being in kitchen work—changes whereof I am in a great part author—may have some chance of a good reception at the hands of the public, i.e., at the hands of those very members of it who have profited by the changes I refer to.

For it was only with the view of meeting the many and persistent demands for such a record that the present volume was written.

I had at first contemplated the possibility of including only new recipes in this formulary. But it should be borne in mind that the changes that have transformed kitchen procedure during the last twenty-five years could not all be classed under the head of new recipes; for, apart from the fundamental principles of the science, which we owe to Carême, and which will last as long as Cooking itself, scarcely one old-fashioned method has escaped the necessary new moulding required by modern demands. For fear of giving my work an incomplete appearance, therefore, I had to refer to these old-fashioned practices and to include among my new recipes those of the former which most deserved to survive. But it should not be forgotten that in a few years, judging from the rate at which things are going, the publication of a fresh selection of recipes may become necessary; I hope to live long enough to see this accomplished, in order that I may follow the evolution, started in my time, and add a few more original creations to those I have already had the pleasure of seeing adopted; despite the fact that the discovery of new dishes grows daily more difficult.

But novelty is the universal cry—novelty by hook or by crook! It is an exceedingly common mania among people of inordinate wealth to exact incessantly new or so-called new dishes. Sometimes the demand comes from a host whose luxurious table has exhausted all the resources of the modern cook’s repertory, and who, having partaken of every delicacy, and often had too much of good things, anxiously seeks new sensations for his blasé palate. Anon, we have a hostess, anxious to outshine friends with whom she has been invited to dine, and whom she afterwards invites to dine with her.

Novelty! It is the prevailing cry; it is imperiously demanded by everyone.

For all that, the number of alimentary substances is comparatively small, the number of their combinations is not infinite, and the amount of raw material placed either by art or by nature at the disposal of a cook does not grow in proportion to the whims of the public.

What feats of ingenuity have we not been forced to perform, at times, in order to meet our customers’ wishes? Those only who have had charge of a large, modern kitchen can tell the tale. Personally, I have ceased counting the nights spent in the attempt to discover new combinations, when, completely broken with the fatigue of a heavy day, my body ought to have been at rest.

Yet, the Chef who has had the felicity to succeed in turning out an original and skilful preparation approved by his public and producing a vogue, cannot, even for a time, claim the monopoly of his secret discovery, or derive any profit therefrom. The painter, sculptor, writer and musician are protected by law. So are inventors. But the chef has absolutely no redress for plagiarism on his work; on the contrary, the more the latter is liked and appreciated, the more will people clamour for his recipes. Many hours of hard work perhaps underlie his latest creation, if it have reached the desired degree of perfection.

He may have forfeited his recreation and even his night’s rest, and have laboured without a break over his combination; and, as a reward, he finds himself compelled, morally at least, to convey the result of his study to the first person who asks, and who, very often, subsequently claims the invention of the recipe—to the detriment of the real author’s chances and reputation.

This frantic love of novelty is also responsible for many of the difficulties attending the arrangement of menus; for very few people know what an arduous task the composing of a perfect menu represents.

The majority—even of those who are accustomed to receptions and the giving of dinners—suppose that a certain routine alone is necessary, together with some culinary practice, in order to write a menu; and few imagine that a good deal more is needed than the mere inscription of Courses upon a slip of pasteboard.

In reality the planning of these alimentary programmes is among the most difficult problems of our art, and it is in this very matter that perfection is so rarely reached. In the course of more than forty years’ experience as a chef, I have been responsible for thousands of menus, some of which have since become classical and have ranked among the finest served in modern times; and I can safely say, that in spite of the familiarity such a period of time ought to give one with the work, the setting-up of a presentable menu is rarely accomplished without lengthy labour and much thought, and for all that the result is not always to my satisfaction. From this it may be seen how slender are the claims of those who, without any knowledge of our art, and quite unaware of the various properties belonging to the substances we use, pretend to arrange a proper menu.

However difficult the elaboration of a menu may be, it is but the first and by no means the only difficulty which results from the rapidity with which meals are served nowadays. The number of dishes set before the diners being considerably reduced, and the dishes themselves having been deprived of all the advantages which their sumptuous decorations formerly lent them, they must recover, by means of perfection and delicacy, sufficient in the way of quality to compensate for their diminished bulk and reduced splendour. They must be faultless in regard to quality; they must be savoury and light. The choice of the raw material, therefore, is a matter demanding vast experience on the part of the chef; for the old French adage which says that “La sauce fait passer le poisson” has long since ceased to be true, and if one do not wish to court disapprobation—often well earned—the fish should not be in the slightest degree inferior to its accompanying sauce.

While on the subject of raw material, I should like, en passant, to call attention to a misguided policy which seems to be spreading in private houses and even in some commercial establishments; I refer to the custom which, arising as it doubtless does from a mistaken idea of economy, consists of entrusting the choice of kitchen provisions to people unacquainted with the profession, and who, never having used the goods which they have to buy, are able to judge only very superficially of their quality or real value, and cannot form any estimate of their probable worth after the cooking process.

If economy were verily the result of such a policy none would object to it. But the case is exactly the reverse; for, in the matter of provisions, as in all commercial matters, the cheapest is the dearest in the end. To obtain good results, good material in a sufficient quantity must be used, and, in order to obtain good material, the latter should be selected by the person who is going to use it, and who knows its qualities and properties. Amphitryons who set aside these essential principles may hope in vain to found a reputation for their tables.

It will be seen that the greater part of the titles in this work have been left in French. I introduced, or rather promulgated this system, because, since it is growing every day more customary to write menus in French, it will allow those who are unacquainted with the language to accomplish the task with greater ease. Moreover, many of the titles—especially those of recent creations—are quite untranslatable. As the index, however, is in English, and in every case the order number of each recipe accompanies the number of the page where it is to be found, no confusion can possibly arise. I have also allowed certain French technical terms, for which there exist no English equivalents, to remain in their original form, and these will be found explained in a glossary at the end of the book.

I preferred to do this rather than strain the meaning of certain English words, in order to fit them to a slightly unusual application; and in so doing I only followed a precedent which has been established on a more or less large scale by such authors of English books on French cooking as Francatelli, Gouffé, Ranhoffer, etc.

But the example for such verbal adoptions was set long ago in France, where sporting and other terms, for which no suitable native words could be found, were borrowed wholesale from the English language, and gallicised. It is therefore not unreasonable to apply the principle to terms in cookery which, though plentiful and varied in France, are scarce in this country.

To facilitate the reading of the recipes, all words which are not in common use, and of which the explanation will be found in the Glossary, are italicised in the text.

In concluding this preface, which, I fear, has already overreached the bounds I intended for it, I should like to thank those of my lady clients as well as many English epicures whose kind appreciation has been conducive to the writing of this work. I trust they will favour the latter with the generous consideration of which they have so frequently given the author valuable proofs, and for which he is glad of an opportunity of expressing his deep gratitude.

CONTENTS

PART I

FUNDAMENTAL ELEMENTS

CHAPTER I

PAGE

FONDS DE CUISINE

1

CHAPTER II

THE LEADING WARM SAUCES

15

CHAPTER III

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES

24

CHAPTER IV

COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS

48

CHAPTER V

SAVOURY JELLIES OR ASPICS

59

CHAPTER VI

THE COURT-BOUILLONS AND THE MARINADES

64

CHAPTER VII

ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS

70

CHAPTER VIII

THE VARIOUS GARNISHES FOR SOUPS

87

CHAPTER IX

GARNISHING PREPARATIONS FOR RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES

92

CHAPTER X

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS

97

PART II

RECIPES AND MODES OF PROCEDURE

CHAPTER XI

PAGE

HORS-D’ŒUVRES

137

CHAPTER XII

EGGS

164

CHAPTER XIII

SOUPS

197

CHAPTER XIV

FISH

260

CHAPTER XV

RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES OF BUTCHER’S MEAT

352

CHAPTER XVI

RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES OF POULTRY AND GAME

473

CHAPTER XVII

ROASTS AND SALADS

605

CHAPTER XVIII

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS

624

CHAPTER XIX

SAVORIES

678

CHAPTER XX

ENTREMETS (SWEETS)

687

CHAPTER XXI

ICES AND SHERBETS

788

CHAPTER XXII

DRINKS AND REFRESHMENTS

816

CHAPTER XXIII

FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS

820

GLOSSARY

Abats, stands for such butcher’s supplies as heads, hearts, livers, kidneys, feet, &c.

Aiguillettes, see No. 1755.

Ailerons, see No. 1583.

Amourettes, see No. 1288.

Anglaise, to treat à l’Anglaise, see No. 174.

Anglaise, to cook à l’Anglaise, means to cook plainly in water.

Anglaise, a preparation of beaten eggs, oil and seasoning.

Attereaux, see No. 1219.

Baba-moulds, a kind of small deep cylindrical mould, slightly wider at the top than at the bottom.

Bain-Marie, a hot-water bath in which utensils containing various culinary preparations are immersed to keep warm, or for the purpose of poaching or cooking.

Barquettes, see No. 314.

Biscottes, a kind of rusks.

Blanch, Blanched, see No. 273.

Brandade, see No. 1027.

Brunoise-fashion, see Cut below.

Canapés, see No. 316.

Caramel Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Casserole (En), see No. 250.

Cassolette, a kind of hot hors-d’œuvre, moulded to the shape of a small drum.

Cèpes, a kind of mushroom (Boletus edulis).

Chartreuse-fashion, see No. 1220.

Chiffonade, see No. 215.

Chinois, a very small green candied orange.

Chipolata, a kind of small sausages.

Choux, a kind of cake made from Pâte à Choux, q.v.

Cisel, Ciseled, to cut a vegetable after the manner of a chaff-cutting machine.

Clothe, Clothed, Clothing (of moulds), see No. 916.

Cocotte (En), see No. 250.

Concass, Concassed, to chop roughly.

Contise, to incise a piece of meat at stated intervals, and to insert slices of truffle, or other substance, into each incision.

Crépinettes, see No. 1410.

Croustade, see No. 2393.

Croûtons, pieces of bread of various shapes and sizes, fried in butter. In the case of aspic jelly, croûtons stand for variously shaped pieces used in bordering dishes.

Dariole-moulds, small Baba-moulds, q.v.

Darne, see No. 784.

Daubière, an earthenware utensil used in the cooking of Daubes.

Écarlate (A l’), salted meat is said to be à l’écarlate when it is swathed in a coat of scarlet jelly.

Escarole, Batavia chicory.

Feuilletés, a kind of puffs made from puff-paste.

Flute (French, soup), a long crisp roll of bread.

Fondue, (1) a cheese preparation; (2) a pulpy state to which such vegetables as tomatoes, sorrel, &c., are reduced by cooking.

Fumet, a kind of essence extracted from fish, game, &c.

Galette, a large quoit, made from puff-paste or short-paste, &c.

Gaufrette, a special wafer.

Génoise, see No. 2376.

Gild, Gilding, Gilded (1) to cover an object with beaten eggs, by means of a brush; (2) to give a golden sheen to objects by means of heat.

Gratin, Gratined, see No. 268 to 272 inclusive.

Hatelet, an ornamental skewer; the word sometimes stands for Attereaux.

Julienne, Julienne-fashion, see Cut.

Langoustine, a small variety of the Spiny Lobster.

Large-Ball Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Large-Crack Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Large-Thread Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Macédoine, a mixture of early-season vegetables or fruit.

Madeleine-mould, a mould in the shape of a narrow scallop-shell.

Manied (said of butter), see No. 151.

Marinade, see No. 168.

Mirepoix, see No. 228.

Mise-en-place, a general name given to those elementary preparations which are constantly resorted to during the various stages of most culinary operations.

Morue, Newfoundland or Iceland salt-cod.

Mousses, a class of light, hot or cold preparations of fish, meat, poultry, game, etc., and sweets, moulded in large moulds in sufficient quantities for several people.

Mousselines, same as above, but moulded in small quantities at a time, enough for one person.

Mousserons, a kind of mushroom.

Nappe Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Orgeat, a beverage made from syrup and almonds.

Oxalis, a Mexican vegetable, allied to sorrel, of which the roots principally are eaten.

Paillettes au Parmesan, see No. 2322.

Palmettes, palm-shaped pieces of puff-paste, used in decorating.

Panés à l’Anglaise, treated à l’Anglaise, see Anglaise.

Pannequets, see No. 2403.

Papillote, see No. 1259.

Pâte à Choux, see No. 2373.

Paupiette, a strip of chicken, of fish fillet, or other meat, garnished with forcemeat, rolled to resemble a scroll and cooked.

Paysanne-fashion, see Cut.

Pluches, the shreds of chervil, used for soups.

Poële, Poëling, see No. 250.

Poêle (A la), see No. 395.

Pralin, see No. 2352.

Pralined, having been treated with Pralin, q.v.

Printanier (Eng. Vernal), a name given to a garnish of early-season vegetables, cut to various shapes.

Profiterolles, see No. 218.

Râble, the back of a hare.

Ravioli, see No. 2296.

Ribbon Stage, see No. 2376.

Rissole, to fry brown.

Salpicon, a compound of various products, cut into dice, and, generally, cohered with sauce or forcemeat.

Sauté, Sautéd, a process of cooking described under No. 251.

Sauté, a qualifying term applied to dishes treated in the way described under No. 251.

Savarin-mould, an even, crown-shaped mould.

Small-Ball Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Small-Crack Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Small-Thread Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Soufflé, name given to a class of light, hot or cold preparations of fish, meat, poultry, game, etc., and sweets, to which the whites of eggs are usually added if the preparation is served hot, and to which whisked cream is added if the preparation is served cold.

Soup-Flute, see Flute.

Stages in the Cooking ofSugar:— Small-Thread Large-Thread Small-BallLarge-Ball Small-Crack Large-Crack Caramel See No. 2344. Nappe, see No. 2955.

Subrics, see No. 2137.

Suprême, a name given to the fillet of the breast of a fowl. The term has been extended to certain of the best parts of fish, game, etc.

Terrine, a patty.

Terrine à Pâté, a special utensil in which patties are cooked.

Tomatéd. Preparations are said to be tomatéd when they are mixed with enough tomato purée for the shade and flavour of the latter to be distinctly perceptible in them.

Vesiga, the dried spine-marrow of the sturgeon.

Zest, the outermost, coloured, glossy film of the rind of an orange or lemon.

PART I FUNDAMENTAL ELEMENTS OF COOKING

CHAPTER IFONDS DE CUISINE

Before undertaking the description of the different kinds of dishes whose recipes I purpose giving in this work, it will be necessary to reveal the groundwork whereon these recipes are built. And, although this has already been done again and again, and is wearisome in the extreme, a text-book on cooking that did not include it would be not only incomplete, but in many cases incomprehensible.

Notwithstanding the fact that it is the usual procedure, in culinary matters, to insist upon the importance of the part played by stock, I feel compelled to refer to it at the outset of this work, and to lay even further stress upon what has already been written on the subject.

Indeed, stock is everything in cooking, at least in French cooking. Without it, nothing can be done. If one’s stock is good, what remains of the work is easy; if, on the other hand, it is bad or merely mediocre, it is quite hopeless to expect anything approaching a satisfactory result.

The workman mindful of success, therefore, will naturally direct his attention to the faultless preparation of his stock, and, in order to achieve this result, he will find it necessary not merely to make use of the freshest and finest goods, but also to exercise the most scrupulous care in their preparation, for, in cooking, care is half the battle. Unfortunately, no theories, no formulæ, and no recipes, however well written, can take the place of practical experience in the acquisition of a full knowledge concerning this part of the work—the most important, the most essential, and certainly the most difficult part.

In the matter of stock it is, above all, necessary to have a sufficient quantity of the finest materials at one’s disposal. The master or mistress of a house who stints in this respect thereby deliberately forfeits his or her right to make any remark whatsoever to the chef concerning his work, for, let the talent or merits of the latter be what they may, they are crippled by insufficient or inferior material. It is just as absurd to exact excellent cooking from a chef whom one provides with defective or scanty goods, as to hope to obtain wine from a bottled decoction of logwood.

The Principal Kinds of Fonds de Cuisine (Foundation Sauces and Stocks)

The principal kinds of fonds de cuisine are:—

1. Ordinary and clarified consommés.

2. The brown stock or “estouffade,” game stocks, the bases of thickened gravies and of brown sauces.

3. White stock, basis of white sauces.

4. Fish stock.

5. The various essences of poultry, game, fish, &c., the complements of small sauces.

6. The various glazes: meat, game, and poultry.

7. The basic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, Tomato, and Hollandaise.

8. The savoury jellies or aspics of old-fashioned cooking.

To these kinds of stock, which, in short, represent the buttresses of the culinary edifice, must now be added the following preparations, which are, in a measure, the auxiliaries of the above:—

1. The roux, the cohering element in sauces.

2. The “Mirepoix” and “Matignon” aromatic and flavouring elements.

3. The “Court-Bouillon” and the “Blancs.”

4. The various stuffings.

5. The marinades.

6. The various garnishes for soups, for relevés, for entrées, &c. (“Duxelle,” “Duchesse,” “Dauphine,” Pâte à choux, frying batters, various Salpicons, Profiterolles, Royales, Œufs filés, Diablotins, Pastes, &c.).

1—ORDINARY OR WHITE CONSOMMÉ

Quantities for making Four Quarts.

3 lbs. of shin of beef.

3 lbs. of lean beef.

1½ lbs. of fowls’ carcases.

1 lb. of carrots.

½ lb. of turnips.

¾ lb. of leeks and 1 stick of celery.

¼ lb. of parsnips.

1 medium-sized onion with a clove stuck in it.

Preparation.—Put the meat into a stock-pot of suitable dimensions, after having previously strung it together; add the poultry carcase, five quarts of water, and one-half oz. of grey salt. Place the stock-pot on a moderate fire in such a manner that it may not boil too quickly, and remember to stir the meat from time to time. Under the influence of the heat, the water gradually reaches the interior of the meat, where, after having dissolved the liquid portions, it duly combines with them. These liquid portions contain a large proportion of albumen, and as the temperature of the water rises this substance has a tendency to coagulate. It also increases in volume, and, by virtue of its lightness, escapes from the water and accumulates on the surface in the form of scum. Carefully remove this scum as it forms, and occasionally add a little cold water before the boil is reached in order that, the latter being retarded, a complete expulsion of the scum may be effected. The clearness of the consommé largely depends upon the manner in which this skimming has been carried out. Then the vegetable garnishing is added. The scum from these is removed as in the previous case, and the edge of the stock-pot should be carefully wiped to the level of the fluid, so as to free it from the deposit which has been formed there. The stock-pot is then moved to a corner of the fire where it may continue cooking slowly for four or five hours. At the end of this time it should be taken right away from the fire, and, after half a pint of cold water has been added to its contents, it should be left to rest a few minutes with a view to allowing the grease to accumulate on the surface of the liquid, whence it must be carefully removed before the consommé is strained. This last operation is effected by means of a very fine strainer, placed on the top of a white tureen (clean and wide), which should then be placed in a draught to hasten the cooling of the consommé. The tureen should not on any account be covered, and this more particularly in summer, when rapid cooling is a precautionary measure against fermentation.

Remarks upon the Different Causes which Combine to Influence the Quality of a Consommé

It will be seen that I have not made any mention in the above formula of the meat and the vegetables which have helped to make the consommé, my reason being that it is preferable to remove them from the stock-pot only after the broth has been strained, so as not to run the risk of disturbing the latter.

The quality of the meat goes a long way towards settling the quality of the consommé. In order that the latter be perfect, it is essential that the meat used should be that of comparatively old animals whose flesh is well set and rich in flavour. This is a sine quâ non, and the lack of meat coming from old animals in England accounts for the difficulty attaching to the making of a good consommé and savoury sauces in this country. Cattle in England are killed at an age varying from three to four years at the most; the meat thus obtained has no equal for the purpose of roasts and grills, and anything approaching it is rarely met with on the Continent. But when this same meat is used for boiling or braising, it does not contain enough juice or flavour to yield a satisfactory result.

This shortcoming is furthermore aggravated by a fault that many commit who are employed in the making of consommés and stock. The fault in question consists in cooking the bones simultaneously with the meat. Now to extract that gelatinous element from bone which produces the mellowness characteristic of all good consommés, it is necessary that the gelatigenous bodies should be cooked for twelve hours at least, and even after that time has elapsed they are still not entirely spent. On the Continent the quality of the meat easily compensates for this technical error, but such is certainly not the case in England, where five hours’ stewing only results in a flat and insipid consommé.

I therefore believe that, in the case of either consommé or stock, the formulæ of which I shall give later, it would be advisable for the bones to stew at least twelve hours, and this only after they have been well broken up, while the quantity of water used should be so calculated as to suffice exactly for the immersion of the meat that must follow. The contents of this first stock-pot should include half of the vegetables mentioned, and the consommé thus obtained, after having been strained and cooled, will take the place of the water in the recipe, in accordance with the directions I have given above.

The Uses of White Consommé

White consommé is used in the preparation of clarified consommés, in which case it undergoes a process of clarifying, the directions for which will be given later. It also serves as the liquor for thick soups, poached fowls, &c. It must be limpid, as colourless as possible, and very slightly salted, for, whatever the use may be for which it is intended, it has to undergo a process of concentration.

2—THE PREPARATION OF CLARIFIED CONSOMMÉ FOR CLEAR SOUPS

Quantities for making four quarts.—Five quarts of ordinary consommé, one and one-half lbs. of very lean beef, the white of an egg, one fowl’s carcase (roasted if possible). First, mince the beef and pound it in a mortar with the fowl’s carcase and the white of egg, adding a little cold white consommé. Put the whole into a tall, narrow, and thick-bottomed stewpan; then gradually add the cold, white broth, from which all grease has been removed, that the whole may be well mixed. Then the stewpan may be put on the fire, and its contents thoroughly stirred, for fear of their burning at the bottom. When boiling-point is reached, move the stewpan to a corner of the fire, so that the soup may only simmer, for anything approaching the boil would disturb the contents. A good hour should be enough to properly finish the consommé, and any longer time on the fire would be rather prejudicial than the reverse, as it would probably impair the flavour of the preparation. Now carefully remove what little grease may have collected on the surface of the consommé, and strain the latter through muslin into another clean stewpan. It is now ready for the addition of the garnishes that are to form part of it, which I shall enumerate in due course.

Remarks upon Clarifications

For clarified consommés, even more than for the ordinary kind, it is eminently advisable that the meat should be that of old animals. Indeed, it is safe to say that one lb. of meat coming from an animal of eight years will yield much better consommé than two lbs. would, coming from a fattened animal of about three or four years. The consommé will be stronger, mellower, and certainly more tasty, as the flesh of young animals has absolutely no richness of flavour.

It will be seen that I do not refer to any vegetable for the clarification. If the white consommé has been well carried out, it should be able to dispense with all supplementary flavouring, and, the customary error of cooks being rather to overdo the quantity of vegetables—even to the extent of disguising the natural aroma of the consommé—I preferred to entirely abandon the idea of vegetable garnishes in clarifications, and thus avoid a common stumbling-block.

3—CHICKEN CONSOMMÉ

White chicken consommé is prepared in exactly the same way as ordinary white consommé. There need only be added to the meat, the quantity of which may be lessened, an old hen or a cock, slightly coloured on the spit or in the oven.

For the clarification, the quantity of roast fowl-carcases used may be increased, provided the latter be not too fat. The process, however, is the same as in the clarification of ordinary consommés.

The colour of chicken consommé should be lighter than that of the ordinary kind—namely, a light, amber yellow, limpid and warm.

4—FISH CONSOMMÉ

These consommés are rarely used, for Lenten soups with a fish basis are generally thick soups, for the preparation of which the fish fumet whereof I shall give the formula later (Formula No. 11) should avail. Whenever there is no definite reason for the use of an absolutely Lenten consommé, it would be advisable to resort to one of the ordinary kind, and to finish off the same by means of a good fish essence extracted from the bones of a sole or whiting. An excellent consommé is thus obtained, more palatable and less flat than the plain fish consommé.

If, however, one were obliged to make a plain fish consommé, the following procedure should be adopted:—

Clarification of Fish Consommé

Quantities for making Four Quarts.—Four and one-half quarts of ordinary fish fumet having a decided taste; one-half lb. of good fresh caviare, or pressed caviare.

Mode of Procedure.—Pound the caviare and mix the resulting pulp with the cold fish fumet. Put the whole into a saucepan, place it on the open fire, and stir with a spatula until the contents reach the boil. Then move the saucepan to a corner of the fire, and let the consommé simmer gently for twenty minutes, after which strain it through muslin with great caution, and keep it well covered and in the warmth, so as to prevent the formation of a gelatinous film on the surface.

Fish consommés are greatly improved by the addition of such aromatics as saffron or curry, both of which considerably add to their quality.

5—GAME CONSOMMÉ

The necks, breasts, and shoulders of venison and of hare, old wild rabbits, old pheasants, and old partridges may be used in the production of game consommés. An ordinary consommé may likewise be made, in which half the beef can be replaced by veal, and to which may be added, while clarifying, a succulent game essence. This last method is even preferable when dealing with feathered game, but in either case it is essential that the meat used should be half-roasted beforehand, in order to strengthen the fumet.

The formula that I give below must therefore only be looked upon as a model, necessarily alterable according to the resources at one’s disposal, the circumstances, and the end in view.

Quantities for making Four Quarts of Plain Game Consommé.

3 lbs. of neck, shoulder, or breast of venison.

1½ lbs. of hare-trimmings.

1 old pheasant or 2 partridges.

4 oz. of sliced carrots, browned in butter.

½ lb. of mushrooms, likewise browned in butter.

1 medium-sized leek and 2 sticks of celery.

1 bunch of herbs with extra thyme and bay leaves.

1 onion, oven-browned, with 2 cloves stuck into it.

Liquor.—Five and one-half quarts of water.

Seasoning.—One oz. of salt and a few peppercorns, these to be added ten minutes previous to straining the consommé.

Time allowed for cooking.—Three hours.

Mode of Procedure.—Proceed in exactly the same way as for ordinary consommés, taking care only to half-roast the meat, as I pointed out above, before putting it in the stewpan.

The Clarification of Game Consommés

The constituents of the clarification of game consommés vary according to the kind of consommé desired. If it is to have a partridge flavour, one partridge should be allowed for each quart of the consommé, whereas if its flavour is to be that of the pheasant, half an old pheasant will be required per each quart of the liquid. Lastly, in the case of plain game consommés, one lb. of lean venison, hare, or wild rabbit should be allowed for each quart of the required consommé.

Mode of Procedure.—Whatever be the kind of game used, the latter must be thoroughly boned and the meat well pounded, together with the white of an egg per four quarts of consommé. About two oz. per quart of dried mushrooms should now be added if they can be procured, while the bones and the remains or carcases of game should be browned in the oven and completely drained of all grease. The whole can now be mixed with the cold game consommé. The clarification is then put over an open fire (stirring incessantly the while), and as soon as the boil is reached the saucepan must be moved to a corner of the fire, where its contents may gently boil for three-quarters of an hour. The fat should then be removed, and the consommé strained through muslin, after which cover up until wanted.

6—SPECIAL CONSOMMÉS FOR SUPPERS

The consommés whose formulæ I have just given are intended more particularly for dinners. They are always finished off by some kind of garnish, which, besides lending them an additional touch of flavour, gives them their special and definite character when they are served up in the diner’s plate.

But the case is otherwise with the consommés served for suppers. These, being only served in cups, either hot or cold, do not allow of any garnishing, since they are to be drunk at table. They must therefore be perfect in themselves, delicate, and quite clear.

These special consommés are made in a similar manner to the others, though it is needful to slightly increase the quantity of meat used for the clarification, and to add to that clarification the particular flavour mentioned on the menu—to wit, a few stalks of celery, if the consommé is a celery one; a small quantity of curry, if the consommé is given as “à l’Indienne”; or a few old roast partridges if it is to be termed “Consommé au fumet de perdreau”; and so on.

The means by which one may vary the aroma of consommés are legion, but it is highly important, what aroma soever be used, that the latter be not too pronounced. It ought only to lend a distinctive and, at the same time, subtle finish to the consommé, which, besides sharpening the latter, should increase its succulence.

When the consommé is served cold it ought to have the qualities of an extremely light and easily-melting jelly, barely firm; but when it is too liquid, it rarely gives that sensation of perfection and succulence to the palate of the consumer which the latter expects. When too firm and too gelatinous it is positively disagreeable; therefore, if it is to be relished, it should be just right in respect of consistency.

7—BROWN STOCK OR “ESTOUFFADE”

Quantities for making Four Quarts.

4 lbs. of shin of beef (flesh and bone).

4 lbs. of shin of veal (flesh and bone).

½ lb. of lean, raw ham.

½ lb. of fresh pork rind, rinsed in tepid water.

¾ lb. of minced carrots, browned in butter.

¾ lb. of minced onions, browned in butter.

1 faggot, containing a little parsley, a stick of celery, a small sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf.

Preparation.—Bone and string the meat, and keep it in readiness for the morrow. Break the bones as finely as possible, and, after having besprinkled them with a little stock-fat, brown them in an oven; also stir them repeatedly. When they are slightly browned, put them in a conveniently large saucepan with the carrots, the onions, and the faggot. Add five quarts of cold water, and put the saucepan on an open fire to boil. As soon as the boil is reached skim carefully; wipe the edge of the saucepan; put the lid half on, and allow the stock to cook gently for twelve hours; then roughly remove the fat; pass the liquid through a sieve, and let it cool.

This being done, put the meat in a saucepan just large enough to hold it. Brown it a little in some stock-fat, and clear it entirely of the latter. Add half a pint of the prepared stock, cover the saucepan, and let the meat simmer on the side of the fire until the stock is almost entirely reduced. Meanwhile the meat should have been repeatedly turned, that it may be equally affected throughout. Now pour the remainder of the stock, prepared from bones, into the saucepan, bring the whole to the boil, and then move the saucepan to a corner of the fire for the boiling to continue very slowly and regularly with the lid off. As soon as the meat is well cooked the fat should be removed from the stock, and the latter should be strained or rubbed through a sieve, after which it should be put aside to be used when required.

Remarks Relative to the Making of Brown Stock.—Instead of stringing the meat after having boned it, if time presses, it may be cut into large cubes before browning. In this case one hour and a half would suffice to cook it and to extract all its juice.

Whether brown or white, stock should never be salted, because it is never served in its original state. It is either reduced in order to make glazes or sauces—in which case the concentration answers the purpose of seasoning—or else it is used to cook meat which must be salted before being cooked, and which, therefore, imparts the necessary salt to its surrounding liquor.

Brown stock ought to be the colour of fine burnt amber, and it must be transparent. It is used in making meat-glazes after reduction, also to moisten meat for braising and to prepare brown sauces.

8—BROWN GAME STOCK

There is no difference between the game consommés and game stock, or, otherwise stated, ordinary game consommé and brown game stock are one and the same thing. The distinction lies in the ultimate use of this preparation; it is clarified, as we have shown (Formula 5), if it be intended for a clear soup, and it is used in its original state if it is to be used for a thick game soup, for a sauce, or for reducing.

9—BROWN VEAL STOCK

Brown veal stock requires the same quantities of shin and trimmings of veal as white veal stock (Formula 10). The time allowed for cooking is, however, a little shorter, and this operation may be completed within eight hours. This stock is mostly used as the liquor for poultry and poëled game, while it may also serve in the preparation of thickened veal stock. Being quite neutral in taste, it lends itself to all purposes, and readily takes up the aroma of the meat with which it may happen to be combined. It is admirably suited to the poaching of quails, and nothing can supplant it in this particular.

10—WHITE VEAL STOCK, AND POULTRY STOCK

Quantities for making Four Quarts.

8 lbs. of shin of veal, or lean and fresh veal trimmings.

1 or 2 fowls’ carcases, raw if they are handy.

12 oz. of carrots.

6 oz. of onions stuck with a clove.

5½ quarts of cold water.

4 oz. of leeks strung with a stick of celery.

1 faggot, including 1 oz. of parsley, 1 bay leaf, and a small sprig of thyme.

Preparation.—Bone the shins, string the meat, break up the bones as small as possible, and put them in a stewpan with the water. Place on an open fire, allow to boil, skim carefully, and then move to a side of the fire to cook very gently for five hours. At the end of this time put the stock into another stewpan, add the meat and the vegetables, add water, if necessary, to keep the quantity of liquid at five quarts, let it boil, and allow it to cook slowly for another three hours, after which remove all grease from the stock, pass the latter through a fine strainer or a colander, and put it aside until wanted.

Remarks upon White Stock.—One should contrive to make this stock as gelatinous as possible. It is therefore an indispensable measure that the bones be well broken up and cooked for at least eight hours. Veal never yields such clear stock as beef; nevertheless, the consommé obtained from veal should not be turbid. It must, on the contrary, be kept as clear and as white as possible.

Poultry Stock is made by adding two old fowls to the above veal stock, and these should be put into the liquor with the meat.

Fish Stock

11—WHITE FISH STOCK

Quantities for making Four Quarts.

4 lbs. of trimmings and bones of sole or whiting.

½ lb. of sliced, blanched onions.

2 oz. of parsley, root or stalks.

½ bottle of white wine.

Preparation.—Butter the bottom of a thick, tall stewpan, put in the blanched onions and the parsley-stalks, and upon these aromatics lay the fish remains. Add the juice of a lemon, cover the stewpan, put it on the fire, and allow the fish to exude its essence, jerking the pan at intervals. Moisten, in the first place, with the white wine; then, with the lid off, reduce the liquid to about half. Now add four quarts of cold water, bring to the boil, skim, and then leave to cook for twenty minutes, only, on a moderate fire. The time allowed is ample for the purpose of extracting the aromatic and gelatinous properties contained in the bones, and a more protracted stewing would only impair the savour of the stock.

Remarks upon White Fish Stock.—The formula which I give above diverges considerably from that commonly used, for, as a rule, fish stock is diluted far too much, and is stewed for much too long a time. I have observed that fish stock may be greatly improved by rapid cooking, and it was this consideration that led me to dilute it scantily, so as to avoid prolonged reduction.

It is likewise necessary to remember that in order to make perfect fish stock, only the sole or whiting should be used. In a case of emergency, however, i.e., if the supply of the latter were to run short, a quarter of their weight of brill bones might be added to them. But all other kinds of fish should be avoided in the preparation.

12—FISH STOCK WITH RED WINE

This stock is comparatively rarely used, because, in practice, it is naturally obtained in the cooking of the fish itself, as, for instance, in the case of the “Matelotes.” Be this as it may, with the recent incursion of a custom which seems to demand, ever more and more, the serving of fish without bones, the following formula will be worthy of interest, as it is likely that its need will henceforth be felt with increasing urgency.

Fish fumet with red wine may be prepared from all fresh-water fish, as well as from the remains of sole, whiting, chicken-turbot, and brill. It is generally better, however, to have recourse to the bones and remains of that fish which happens to be constituting the dish—that is to say, the bones and trimmings of sole in a stock for fillet of sole, the bones and trimmings of a chicken-turbot in a fumet for a chicken-turbot, and so on. The preparatory formula remains the same, whatever the kind of fish used may be.

Quantities for making Four Quarts ofFumetwith Red Wine.—Four lbs. of bones, heads, and trimmings of the fish to be served; three-quarters lb. of minced white onions; three oz. of parsley stalks, two bay leaves, four small sprigs of thyme, and four cloves of garlic; two bottles of red wine and four pints of water.

Mode of Procedure.—Put all the above-mentioned ingredients in a thick and tall stewpan, boil, skim carefully, and allow to cook twenty to thirty minutes on a moderate fire; then strain the stock through a colander into a tureen, to be used when required.

Remarks upon Fish Stock with Red Wine.—This stock stands reduction far better than white fish stock. Nevertheless, I urge the advisability of trying to obtain the required quantity without reduction. In its preparation, one may use some mushroom parings, as in the case of white stock, if these are handy, and they will be found to lend an agreeable flavour to the fish fumet.

13—VARIOUS ESSENCES

As their name implies, essences are stock which hold a large proportion of a substance’s aroma in a concentrated form. They are, in fact, ordinary stock, only less diluted, with the idea of intensifying the flavour of the treated ingredients; hence their utility is nil if the stock which they are intended to finish has been reasonably and judiciously treated. It is infinitely simpler to make savoury and succulent stock in the first place than to produce a mediocre stock, and finally complete it by a specially prepared essence. The result in the first instance is better, and there is economy of time and material.

The most one can do is to recommend, in certain circumstances, the use of essences extracted from particularly well-flavoured products, as, for instance, mushrooms, truffles, morels, and celery. But it would be well to remember that, nine times out of ten, it is preferable to add the product itself to the stock during the preparation of the same than to prepare essences.

For this reason I do not think it necessary to dilate upon the subject of essences, the need of which should not be felt in good cooking.

14—VARIOUS GLAZES

The various glazes of meat, fowl, game, and fish are merely stock reduced to the point of viscosity. Their uses are legion. Occasionally they serve in decking dishes with a brilliant and unctuous coating which makes them sightly; at other times they may help to strengthen the consistence of a sauce or other culinary preparation, while again they may be used as sauces proper after they have been correctly creamed or buttered.

Glazes are distinguished from essences by the fact that the latter are only prepared with the object of extracting all the flavour of the product under treatment, whereas the former are, on the contrary, constituted by the whole base of the substance itself. They therefore have not only its savour, but also its succulence and mellowness, whereby they are superior to the essences, and cooking can but be improved by substituting them for the latter. Nevertheless, many chefs of the old school do not permit the use of glazes in culinary preparations, or, rather, they are of opinion that each cooking operation should produce them on its own account, and thus be sufficient unto itself. Certainly, the theory is correct when neither time nor cost is limited. But nowadays the establishments are scarce where these theories may be applied, and, indeed, if one does not make an abuse of glazes, and if they be prepared with care, their use gives excellent results, while they lend themselves admirably to the very complex demands of modern customs.

15—MEAT GLAZE

Meat glaze is made by reducing brown stock (Formula 7) in a large stewpan upon an open fire. As often as the stock is appreciably reduced, during ebullition, it may be transferred to smaller stewpans, taking care to strain it through muslin at each change of stewpan. The glaze may be considered sufficiently reduced when it evenly veneers a withdrawn spoon. The fire used for reducing should gradually wane as the concentration progresses, and the last phase must be effected slowly and on a moderate fire.

When it is necessary to obtain a lighter and clearer glaze, the brown veal stock (Formula No. 9) should be reduced instead of the “Estouffade.”

16—POULTRY GLAZE

Reduce the poultry base indicated in Formula 10, and proceed in exactly the same way as for meat glaze (Formula 15).

17—GAME GLAZE

Use the game base (Formula 8), and proceed as for meat glaze (Formula 15).

18—FISH GLAZE

This glaze is used less often than the preceding ones. As it is only used to intensify the savour of sauces, it is sufficient for this purpose to prepare a white fish stock (Formula 11), which may be diluted with the stock already prepared, and which may be reduced according to the requirements. The name of fish fumet or fish essence is given to this preparation; its flavour is more delicate than that of fish glaze, which it replaces with advantage.

CHAPTER IITHE LEADING WARM SAUCES

Warm sauces are of two kinds: the leading sauces, also called “mother sauces,” and the small sauces, which are usually derived from the first-named, and are generally only modified forms thereof. Cooking stock only includes the leading sauces, but I shall refer to the small hot sauces and the cold sauces at the end of the auxiliary stock.

Experience, which plays such an important part in culinary work, is nowhere so necessary as in the preparation of sauces, for not only must the latter flatter the palate, but they must also vary in savour, consistence and viscosity, in accordance with the dishes they accompany. By this means, in a well-ordered dinner, each dish differs from the preceding ones and from those that follow.

Furthermore, sauces must, through the perfection of their preparation, obey the general laws of a rational hygiene, wherefore they should be served and combined in such wise as to allow of easy digestion by the frequently disordered stomachs of their consumers.

Carême was quite justified in pluming himself upon the fact that during his stay at the English Court his master—the Prince Regent—had assured him that he (Carême) was the only one among those who had served his Highness whose cooking had been at all easy of digestion. Carême had grasped the essential truth that the richer the cooking is, the more speedily do the stomach and palate tire of it. And, indeed, it is a great mistake to suppose that, in order to do good cooking, it is necessary to be prodigal in one’s use of all things. In reality, practice dictates fixed and regular quantities, and from these one cannot diverge without upsetting the hygienic and sapid equilibrium on which the value of a sauce depends. The requisite quantities of each ingredient must, of course, be used, but neither more nor less, as there are objections to either extreme.

Any sauce whatsoever should be smooth, light (without being liquid), glossy to the eye, and decided in taste. When these conditions are fulfilled it is always easy to digest even for tired stomachs.

An essential point in the making of sauces is the seasoning, and it would be impossible for me to lay sufficient stress on the importance of not indulging in any excess in this respect. It too often happens that the insipidness of a badly-made sauce is corrected by excessive seasoning; this is an absolutely deplorable practice.

Seasoning should be so calculated as to be merely a complementary factor, which, though it must throw the savour of dishes into relief, may not form a recognisable part of them. If it be excessive, it modifies and even destroys the taste peculiar to every dish—to the great detriment of the latter and of the consumer’s health.

It is therefore desirable that each sauce should possess its own special flavour, well defined, the result of the combined flavours of all its ingredients.

If, in the making of sauces, one allowed oneself to be guided by those principles which are the very foundation of good cookery, the general denunciation of sauces by the medical faculty would be averted; and this denunciation no sauce deserves if it be carefully prepared, conformably with the laws prescribed by practice and its resulting experience.

The Roux

The roux being the cohering element of leading sauces, it is necessary to reveal its preparation and constituents before giving one’s attention to the latter.

Three kinds of roux are used—namely, brown roux, for brown sauces; pale roux, for veloutés, or cream sauces; and white roux, for white sauces and Béchamel.

19—BROWN ROUX

Quantities for making about One lb.—Eight oz. of clarified butter, nine oz. of best-quality flour.

Preparation.—Mix the flour and butter in a very thick stewpan, and put it on the side of the fire or in a moderate oven. Stir the mixture repeatedly so that the heat may be evenly distributed throughout the whole of its volume.

The time allowed for the cooking of brown roux cannot be precisely determined, as it depends upon the degree of heat employed. The more intense the latter, the speedier will be the cooking, while the stirring will of necessity be more rapid. Brown roux is known to be cooked when it has acquired a fine, light brown colour, and when it exudes a scent resembling that of the hazel-nut, characteristic of baked flour.

It is very important that brown roux should not be cooked too rapidly. As a matter of fact, among the various constituent elements of flour, the starch alone acts as the cohering principle. This starch is contained in little cells, which tightly constrain it, but which are sufficiently porous to permit the percolation of liquid and fatty substances. Under the influence of moderate heat and the infiltered butter, the cells burst through the swelling of the starch, and the latter thereupon completely combines with the butter to form a mass capable of absorbing six times its own weight of liquid when cooked.

When the cooking takes place with a very high initial heat the starch gets burned within its shrivelled cells, and swelling is then possible only in those parts which have been least burned.

The cohering principle is thus destroyed, and double or treble the quantity of roux becomes necessary in order to obtain the required consistency. But this excess of roux in the sauce chokes it up without binding it, and prevents it from despumating or becoming clear. At the same time, the cellulose and the burnt starch lend a bitterness to the sauce of which no subsequent treatment can rid it.

From the above it follows that, starch being the only one from among the different constituents of flour which really effects the coherence of sauces, there would be considerable advantage in preparing roux either from a pure form of it, or from substances with kindred properties, such as fecula, arrow-root, &c. It is only habit that causes flour to be still used as the cohering element of roux, and, indeed, the hour is not so far distant when the advantages of the changes I propose will be better understood—changes which have been already recommended by Favre in his dictionary.