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- Herausgeber: Crowood
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
Written by an acknowledged expert, this invaluable book is aimed at archers of all levels, from those starting out in the sport to those taking part in competitions at the highest levels. The author analyses shooting techniques and tuning, and also emphasizes the development of mental toughness; he argues that this goes hand in hand with the mastery of the physical aspects of the sport.
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Seitenzahl: 432
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2012
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Copyright
First published in 2006 by The Crowood Press Ltd, Ramsbury, Marlborough, Wiltshire, SN8 2HR
www.crowood.com
This e-book edition first published in 2012
© Simon S. Needham 2006
All rights reserved. This e-book is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of this text may be a direct infringement of the author’s and publisher’s rights, and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly.
ISBN 978 1 84797 465 5
Acknowledgements In order to succeed at anything one needs to be determined and also to have the support of others. Reaching the Olympics in Sydney 2000 necessitated a huge personal effort but it also required the support and encouragement of family members, friends and work colleagues. It should also be noted that when obstacles emerged this only hardened my resolve to succeed.
So that the knowledge acquired while reaching for the top in archery should not be lost, I was encouraged to write it down. This again required the support of family and friends, but with their help I was able to bring all the information together in a coherent, illustrated form so that others would be able to benefit from my experiences and succeed more easily in archery. Of all the people that have helped with this endeavour, I would especially like to thank: Karen Henderson and Bob Provan, who helped to edit my manuscript, made grammatical changes and provided advice on content; Barry Eley, Lana Needham and Andrew Calloway for contributing additional photographs; the British team archers for posing for photographs; Lana for putting up with photographs and drawings being strewn all over the living room floor; the many archers who illustrated their skills; and others too numerous to mention who helped in countless ways.
Unless otherwise credited, photographs are by the author.
Throughout this book, ‘he’, ‘him’ and ‘his’ are used as neutral pronouns and as such refer to both males and females.
Contents
Title Page
Copyright
Introduction
1. Starting Out
2. Choosing and Using Equipment
3. Setting Up Your Equipment
4. Initial Tuning
5. The Biomechanics of Shooting
6. Fitness
7. Competitions, Training and Practice
8. Nutrition
9. Making the Most of Your Mind
10. Arrow Selection and Preparation
11. Making Bowstrings
12. Better Shooting
13. Fine-Tuning Your Equipment
14. Top Tips
Appendix Tuning References
References and Suggested Reading
Glossary
Useful Addresses
Index
Introduction
The aim of this book is to provide a comprehensive guide for anyone interested in archery, whether they are new to the sport, have shot a little, or are of a reasonable standard. Whatever your skill level, this volume will be an invaluable aid to improving both your shooting and your understanding of archery.
I wish that, twenty years ago when I began my archery career, I had known what I know now. I have therefore aimed to put all of my accumulated knowledge into this volume, so as to provide a bank of ideas and knowledge upon which archers of all levels and abilities can draw. If you are a newcomer, starting your archery career with a good method will mean that your progression through the sport will be much easier.
Archery, like many other experiences in life, is easier to learn if it is broken down into the various parts which make the whole, such as style, equipment, fitness, psychology, tuning and so on. However, once compartmentalized for ease of reference, these parts should such not remain separated, or even, perhaps as in the case of fitness, ignored. You must always remember that ultimately each of the component parts is integral to the whole. While you may get by in your shooting by ignoring some parts of the whole, inevitably this will hold you back from attaining your true potential.
Reaching your potential in archery is like completing a personal jigsaw; each of us will have our own jigsaw of excellence. The key to success is in finding all the individual pieces to it. All archers have the same ultimate focal point – ‘the centre of the picture’. It is the differences in body build and make-up of the neural pathways, in the main, that will determine the pieces that form your own personal ‘archery jigsaw’.
The simplest way of explaining archery is that you need to be able to carry out the same actions and thoughts repeatedly, to hit the centre of the target every time – ‘the art of repetition’. In theory, you can hold the bow however you want, stand on one foot, stick your finger in your ear when you pull the string back, and if when you let go the arrow hits the middle of the target, you will score a ‘ten’. But the chances of being able to achieve a ten every time from this method are negligible. Ask yourself: ‘Am I able to repeat the movement easily, and is there any way to make what I am doing easier to repeat time and time again?’ You need to consider that the body and mind work in a specific way. Biomechanics refers to how the body works mechanically and psychology to how the mind works – utilizing these two underlying mechanisms is vital to your eventual success in archery.
This book will enable you to put together the main part of your jigsaw, quickly and easily. You will be able to shoot well from the very start. Archery should be a learning progression which begins the moment you first start shooting and which enables you to maximize your potential. The photographs here all show archers who have reached international level and have shot over a score of 1300 for a FITA (maximum 1440), or are international medal winners.
Glasgow’s shooting ground – all ages practising together.
Chapter 1
Starting Out
Archery is a sport for all. Whether you are six or sixty-nine years old, are fully fit or have physical challenges, you can have a go at archery. I know of one-armed archers and even blind archers. They all shoot in the same competitions. The age at which you can take up archery varies between clubs. Due to the shorter attention span of younger children, some clubs may require the parents to stay and supervise their offspring, thus providing an opportunity for the whole family to participate in the activity.
Generally, archery is taken up in the first place as a hobby or recreational sport, with most people content to shoot at their local club and enjoy the social side of archery. Some people then ‘get the bug’ and start entering local competitions, eventually moving on to national competitions. A few of the most determined may even reach the Olympics. However, archers of all ability levels need to be able to learn to focus on the control of their minds and bodies. Accordingly, many professional people find that archery is an excellent distraction from the rigours of a high-pressure working environment.
Costs
Club
Inevitably, one of the first questions to be asked is: ‘How much will it cost?’ How much will the initial outlay be and how much additional equipment will be required if the sport is taken to competition level?
All archery clubs run induction courses for beginners; these are usually one-hour sessions run over six weeks to allow for individual work routines. There will be a minimal payment (for example, my club, Links Archers, currently charges £15 for the induction course). During a beginner’s course all the equipment will be supplied free of charge and instruction is provided on safety and shooting technique. At the end of the course individuals then decide whether or not they wish to join the club. Those deciding to join will need to pay both the club and Grand National Archery Society (GNAS) fees. Although the safety rules are always strictly enforced, anyone shooting at a club has to be insured and this is included in the club fees.
On joining a club, you will be given a card containing your individual GNAS number, which will provide proof that you are insured to shoot at any club or venue. As might be expected, each club has slightly different fees depending upon its facilities and running costs.
Equipment
Most clubs have a store of equipment that new archers can use without charge for a period of time. Therefore there is no need to buy any equipment in the first instance. As in most sports, at the top end equipment can be very expensive and I would urge new archers not to rush out and buy lots of new equipment.
Finding a Club
There are strict rules governing safety in archery, meaning that shooting venues tend to be located in areas that have restricted access to the public, in order to avoid the possibility of passers-by being injured. As a result, archery clubs tend to be tucked away and so the easiest way to find a local club is to access the GNAS website (www.gnas.org), or send an email to [email protected] and ask GNAS to assist you. Libraries and sports centres may also be useful sources of information.
The Importance of Good Technique
It is vital from the start that you shoot with a good style and technique. Whether you have competition in mind, or initially view archery as a diversion from your working life, you will want to get the arrow in the middle of the target as frequently as possible. To achieve this, archery needs to be a progressive improvement of your style and technique that will realize your potential. If you start with a poor style and stance it can take a long time to correct later on.
Another reason to have a good style is that, if you use your body correctly, you will be able to shoot without causing injury to yourself. When at a later stage you shoot at ‘higher’ poundage (the force required to pull the string back), if you do not use your body structure and position correctly (biomechanics), then undue strain may result. When you start, you will use a bow with a low poundage, but generally your natural strength will soon exceed that required for a beginner’s bow. However, if you have started with the correct techniques, you will be able to hold the bow and shoot it without incurring any injury problems.
Stages of Learning
In archery, as with most things in life, a number of learning stages are involved. If you are aware at the outset what these stages are, it will be easier to assess how you are progressing. We can identify these stages as follows:
UnconsciousincompetenceYou have experienced something new. You do not know what to do or what to expect, therefore you are relaxed because you have no expectation of the outcome.Conscious incompetence You now know what you want to do and are trying to master it, but are not achieving it on a regular basis.Conscious competence You know what you want to do, are trying to do it and for the most part get it right (teaching the subconscious).Unconscious competence The subconscious governs the operation of the given task and so the task is carried out automatically.(For further reading on this subject, see ‘Neurolinguistic Programming’ in Chapter 9.)
Best Practices of Learning
In anything you do, if you follow the styles and routines of the best practitioners in the world you will maximize your chances of reaching your potential. For example, let us take two people who have never shot a bow before and put them in separate rooms. They are both furnished with identical archery equipment. However, one of the rooms is supplied with a television, a video player and a collection of videotapes featuring top archers shooting. The person with the additional information will not only be able to fit the bow together more quickly, but will also learn to shoot it more quickly and will improve at a much faster rate. Bows have been shot for thousands of years, so it is preferable to watch and learn from the best, rather than try to reinvent the method all over again.
Basic Range Layout
You will find that all archery ranges are set out in the same way: targets at one end, with a shooting line, waiting line and equipment line at the other end. The shooting line is where you stand to shoot the bow. The waiting line is set back from the shooting line; this line should not be crossed until the signal is given that it is safe to shoot. The equipment line is behind the waiting line; all the equipment is kept behind this line when not being used.
The shooting line ensures that all archers can shoot safely.
The shooting line, showing all archers standing astride the line for safety.
Basic Safety Rules and Procedures
To ensure that shooting is carried out in a safe manner there are set rules and procedures that must be rigorously followed:
Only approach the shooting line once a signal of one whistle blast has been given.The bow should only be pulled back (drawn) when an archer is standing with one foot either side of the shooting line. The bow should be drawn so that the arrow does not rise above a level that is parallel to the ground. This ensures that if the archer should accidentally ‘let go’, the arrow would stay within the shooting range.The arrow should only be put into the bow when the archer is standing on the shooting line and then it must, at all times, be kept pointing down the range (towards the target). Arrows must be carried in a quiver or facing point down at the side of the body when walking back from the target or moving around behind the shooting line.Stay behind the shooting line until the signal has been given to indicate that no more arrows can be shot (two whistle blasts); it is then safe to move forward to the target. The word ‘Fast!’ can be called by anyone who’s spotted a potentially dangerous situation, for example someone stepping over the shooting line while others are preparing to shoot. If ‘Fast!’ is shouted, all archers must stop shooting immediately and remove the arrow from the bow. Shooting may only recommence when one whistle blast has been given to indicate that it is now safe to shoot.If the instructor asks you to ‘come down’ this means that he or she wants you to lower the bow without shooting the arrow and to relax the pressure on the string.Always walk to and from the targets; the nock end (back) of the arrow can be as sharp as the point. Walking into the arrows embedded in the target can cause serious injury.Walk to the side of (between) the targets as it is easier to see the arrows; also look on the ground in front of the target, as some arrows may have fallen short. When pulling out arrows, both hands must be used: one to hold the arrow, the other to press against the boss (target) adjacent to the arrow. Make sure that no one is behind the arrow; it can then be pulled. Pull the arrow with the thumb pointing down the shaft towards the target (this ensures that the arrow shaft remains straight). At the same time, press against the boss with the other hand, using the same pressure as being employed in the pulling action (this ensures that the boss is not pulled over).X10 arrows: the nock is sharper than the point.
The drawing-hand thumb points down the arrow, keeping the shaft straight.
Right- or Left-Handed?
Why is determining whether a person should shoot right- or left-handed so important in archery? The brain is made up of two hemispheres, left and right, but is linked together by the corpus callosum (bridge), which allows the exchange of information between the two halves (women tend to have a larger corpus callosum, but more about that below). In nearly all functions, the left hemisphere controls the right side of the body, while the right hemisphere controls the left. However, these two sides are not equally balanced. One side will be dominant – generally the left side for right-handed people and vice versa for left-handed people. Thus, the eye dominance and reflex tests carried out by a new archer will establish which is his or her dominant brain hemisphere, ensuring that the most effective tie between hand and eye is utilized.
Determining Handedness
From the outset, it needs to be ascertained whether a new archer should shoot with the right or left hand. This is established first by asking questions, then by carrying out simple tests, such as catching or kicking a ball in a warming-up exercise. Prior to any sporting activity, the body should be warmed-up by gentle exercise and stretching in order to reduce the chance of strains and injury, and one such exercise is the one-handed throwing of a ball to each other, or kicking it. With the prospective archers placed in a circle performing these exercises, the instructor can establish whether the beginners tend towards the right or the left hand/foot.
Eye Dominance
However, the most widely used method for deciding which side of the brain is dominant is an eye-dominance test. If the right eye is dominant, this means that the left side of the brain is dominant and the beginner will start with the bow held in the left hand. If the left eye is dominant, the right side of the brain is dominant and so the beginner will start with the bow held in the right hand.
The two simple and similar methods of conducting this test are:
The individual is asked to place his hands on top of each other, with the index fingers and thumbs forming a hole. He then holds his arms out in front of him and looks through the hole into the instructor’s right eye. The instructor will be able to see which eye the beginner uses and this will help him to ascertain the beginner’s eye dominance.The beginner will be asked to point with his index finger to his instructor’s right eye. Again, the instructor will be able to see which is the beginner’s dominant eye as his finger will appear to be in line with it. Moreover, the finger that the beginner uses to point with will help to confirm brain dominance.The right eye is dominant.
The left eye is dominant.
Right hand – right eye, start the archer right-handed.
Left hand – left eye, start the archer left-handed.
Eye Health Challenges
When ascertaining eye dominance, special care needs to be taken over the health of the prospective archers’ eyes, especially when working with juniors. For example, some youngsters may have a ‘lazy’ eye, so just using eye-dominance tests to determine left or right brain dominance can be misleading. It also needs to be taken into account that some people do not wear their glasses when they should. If prospective archers do wear glasses, ensure that the rim of the frame does not block their view. This can be carried out by asking them to point their left index finger in a similar position to when shooting.
Ensure that the frame of the glasses is clear of the line of focus.
In short, it is essential that instructors are made aware of any sight/eye problems that their beginners might have. If, after conducting these simple tests, the instructor is still unsure whether the beginner is left or right brain dominant he should start him off with the bow in the left hand as for a right-eye dominant archer and see how the beginner progresses.
Starting to Shoot
(N.B. The information provided throughout this book is for right-handed archers; left-handed archers should therefore carry out a mirror image of these instructions)
Clothing and Equipment
It is essential to wear suitable upper-body clothing. It should be close-fitting, because loose-fitting clothing will interfere with your shooting. It also needs to be long enough to cover your midriff when raising your arms to shoulder height.
When you start a beginner’s course, all the equipment should already have been laid out ready by the club instructor; usually the club will have ‘simple’ archery kits for beginners. The instructor will first ensure that you have fitted a bracer to your bow arm. A bracer is a small flat ‘shield’ that is fitted to the inside of the arm holding the bow to protect it from the string as the bow is shot. The instructor will then give to you the rest of the equipment you will use for the session.
Shooting stance at full draw; Anna Karaseova (Belarus).
Standing on the Line
Adopting a good body position on the shooting line is vital. It is the first thing you need to master when you begin shooting. Any type of shooting depends upon natural alignment of the body; this is achieved in archery by aligning your body with the target. Your feet should be placed astride the line, approximately your own shoulder width apart.
If a line were to be drawn from your right toe to your left toe and then extended towards the target, that line should bisect the centre of the target. Lines drawn from right to left hip and right to left shoulder should also line up with the target when the bow is held up. The front arm and the forearm of the drawing arm should point towards the target. To give you an idea of how to get to the correct upper body position for full draw, follow the sequence of photographs.
Shooting stance from behind, note the line of the elbow and body; Wietse van Alten (The Netherlands).
Feet, hips and torso aligned with the target.
Ready to shoot. Margarita Galinovskaya (Russia).
Starting the draw; draw shoulder is slightly forward to reach the string.
Draw shoulder is brought into line as the string comes back.
At full draw with the string touching the centre of the face.
Full draw from behind, showing alignment of body and elbow.
Picking up the Bow
Take the bow in the left hand; it is best if you can start your shooting using a bow sling. The bow sling ‘ties’ the left hand holding the bow to the bow, allowing you to keep the bow hand relaxed during the shot. The bow needs to be held lightly in the left hand with the wrist behind the bow. Remember that the only place you are allowed to draw the bow (pull it back) is when you are on the shooting line and facing towards the target.
When the bow is being held it should never be rested on the ground, although the bottom limb of the bow may be rested on the toe of your shoe. This ensures that the bow is never used as a ‘leaning post’ and prevents damage to the lower limb tip.
The different-coloured fletching faces out from the bow to give maximum clearance of the fletchings against the bow. (Karen Henderson)
Fitting the Arrow onto the String
Each arrow has three fletchings (feathers), two of which are the same colour. The third is a different colour and is known as the ‘cock fletching’.
The string will have a ‘nocking point’ that indicates the place where the arrow is to be fitted onto the string. The arrow has a nock (groove) in the end of it that will fit onto the string. The arrow needs to be fitted to the nocking point so that the ‘cock fletching’ is set 90 degrees to the line of the string facing out from the bow. This ensures that when you shoot, the arrow will leave the bow without hitting it. The nock is designed so that it ‘clips’ onto the string. As a result, when the bow is drawn the arrow will stay attached to the string.
Ensure that the hand is behind the bow and relaxed on the grip.
The best way of fitting the arrow into the bow is to fit the nock onto the string, then lay the arrow onto the rest. While you are fitting the arrow to the string with your right hand, the left hand should remain on the grip of the bow. This is important because new archers have a tendency to hold the arrow onto the rest with the index finger of the left hand. This causes damage to the rest, which is not designed to have the weight of the finger pulling on it and, in addition, holding onto the front of the arrow in this way tends to pull the nock off the string.
Fit the nock onto the string and then place the arrow onto the rest. (Karen Henderson)
Placing the Fingers on the String
You will start shooting by using a bow that will be easy to pull (light poundage). It is therefore preferable not to use a ‘tab’ (leather finger protector). This will enable you to get a good sense of how the fingers should feel on the string. The fingers that are used in drawing the bow are the first three (index, middle and ring); the index finger is placed above the arrow and the other two below.
The key finger of the drawing hand is the middle finger, which should be placed so that you can feel the string lying in the first joint of that finger. The other fingers should then be placed in a similar manner. Your middle finger is the strongest (the tendons of this finger run straight up the arm) and it should therefore take 70 per cent of the weight of the bow. If too much of the bow’s weight is taken on the other fingers, there will be an increased chance of injury as you progress to a higher poundage of bow.
The fingers are placed on the string in the first joint, with the back of the hand relaxed.
The second woman on the left is preparing to shoot; as she draws the bow she will align her body with the target, as archers one and three have done.
Preparing to Shoot the Arrow
Once the arrow is loaded into the bow, you need to align your body as you draw the bow, as noted above. The loading of the muscles as you draw the bow is directly related to how the muscles operate when you let go of the string. Stand astride the shooting line (as in the drawing on page 15), align your hips and torso, then turn your head towards the target.
Drawing the Bow
In order to draw the bow, raise the arm holding the bow upwards until it is aligned with the target, then draw the hand holding the string directly back to the face. To do this effectively, you need to think of your fingers as ‘hooks’ that are attached to your elbow by a ‘chain’ (your wrist and forearm).
Once your fingers are hooked onto the string, draw the hand back by rotating the upper arm in a flat arc. Bring the string back so that it touches the centre of your nose and centre/side of your chin, with your fingers running along your jawline. The forearm of the drawing arm should be kept parallel to the ground.
With the fingers hooked onto the string, the wrist and forearm should be relaxed as though they form a chain connecting the elbow to the fingers.
The hand runs along the jaw line and the string is drawn to the centre of the face; Vic Wunderle (USA). (Andrew Callaway)
Lining up the Bow to Shoot
As you look at the target, the string will be in front of your right eye. Looking past the left side of the string, the string, the sight and the target should form a single line. The string will appear blurred, as it is so close to the eye. This is known as the ‘string picture’.
String picture. Lining up these three will help keep the arrows centralized on the target.
Releasing the String
Once the bow is lined up with the target, relax the fingers of the drawing hand and shoot the arrow.
Summary
When starting out on a new endeavour it is essential to adopt the correct methods and techniques from the very outset. This will enable you to develop and continually improve. Should you pick up poor habits from the start, you will constantly have to retrain in order to master particular aspects of your craft and this will considerably slow your progress. So,‘Start as you mean to go on.’
Chapter 2
Choosing and Using Equipment
Whatever stage of shooting you may be at, it is always best to take both time and care when selecting your equipment. Choosing the wrong equipment may not only be expensive, but may also adversely affect your shooting and result in avoidable injuries. You do not need to buy all your equipment – some items you can make for yourself, such as the bow sling, bow stand, quiver and box. This will help to keep the cost down if you are working to a budget. I feel that it is advantageous to buy your equipment in stages, rather than all at once. The equipment needs to be ‘built’ around the bow and your physique; in doing this, you will be able to develop the right combination of equipment as your style and technique evolve.
Do not start buying your equipment until after you have finished the beginner’s course and joined the archery club. By the end of the course you will have a better understanding of the sport and how you feel you want to progress within it. Major items, and particularly the bow, should be left, if possible, for about two months after the end of the beginner’s course, although the timing of purchases will naturally depend on the amount of equipment available at a particular club. To give yourself an idea of what archery equipment is available you could order a catalogue from one of the main archery retailers, or go on-line. The sling, tab, bracer and quiver can be bought soon after you start shooting.
In most cases, there are two phases in the acquisition of equipment: the first phase we can call ‘getting used to it’ and the second,‘wanting a bow’. On taking up archery, you will discover that you use muscles that are not normally used. Therefore, in the early stages of learning, you should use a bow of low poundage (power). As you get used to shooting and progress, you will want to increase the power of the bow; with most modern bows you are now able to increase the poundage to some extent. This will involve buying stiffer limbs, which can cost from £150 upwards. The limbs are the part of the bow that flexes to impart power to the arrow. Accordingly, by using the club equipment for an extended period, you will be able to strengthen your shooting muscles, and so when you purchase your first bow you will be able to buy one more compatible with your strength.
Buying a bow too early, or getting one with poundage that is too high on the grounds that you will ‘grow into it’, will cause your shooting style to suffer. Of course, you may well get used to it, but it could take months or even years of hard work to get back to a good style of shooting.
The string is attached to the ends of the limbs; Tserempilov (Russia).
Phase One Equipment: ‘Getting Used to It’
Some clubs offer finger/wrist/bow slings and tabs as part of the beginner’s course, which is a very useful start to your archery equipment and may well get you off to a better start with your shooting. However, both need to be adapted to the individual.
The finger/wrist/bow sling is fitted to the hand that holds the bow. It allows you to keep the bow hand relaxed during the shot and the bow is then ‘caught’ by it. The purpose of the sling is to allow you to have the bow hand relaxed during the draw and the subsequent shot. The adjustment requirements for all three are similar – they must be fitted so that they feel secure but are slightly loose around the bow, so that as you shoot the bow, it can leave the hand and is then caught by the sling. If the sling is too loose, there will be a tendency to try to catch the bow with the bow hand. If the sling is set too tightly, it will induce a torque (twisting motion) into the bow. The bow hand needs to remain relaxed during the shot, so that the bow is not affected by changing tensions in the hand. Relaxing the hand during every shot, combined with the correct adjustment of the sling, is part of the ‘art of repetition’ that leads towards consistent shooting.
The finger sling attaches around the thumb and index finger.
The Finger Sling
This tends to be a good sling to start using at the outset, as it is simple in construction and easy to use. Finger slings are available from retailers, but in most cases you will need to adjust them to fit your hand and bow correctly. It is generally better to make your own using either thin nylon cord or a flat shoelace. To make the cord type, use 3–4mm thick nylon cord cut to a length of approximately 200mm (8in). Carefully set light to each end; when the material has melted a little blow it out and join the ends together. Next, slip three small lengths of polyurethane tubing, which can be bought from hardware stores or pet shops, over the loop. The sling may well need further adjustment; to do this, cut either side of the melted joint, make the cord shorter and then re-melt the ends to form a smaller loop. The correct length is when you are at full draw the sling grips the index finger and thumb but has a slight gap around the front of the bow.
Two finger slings and a wrist sling.
Heating the ends of the cord to make the loops for the finger slings.
To make the flat shoelace type, knot the lace into a large loop. Two loops are then formed in the ends of the large single loop, and these then fit over the thumb and index finger joint of the bow hand. This again needs to be adjusted properly.
Being able to use a finger sling tends to depend on the shape of your fingers – if you have tapering fingers, you may find that the sling will slip off as you shoot, and so a wrist sling may be preferable.
The layout of the flat shoelace in order to tie a finger sling.
The sling is slightly loose around the front of the bow.
Wrist slings usually tie onto themselves; the string type (far left) attaches to your thumb.
The Wrist Sling
This type of sling usually fits around the wrist of the bow hand. It has an adjustable cord that goes over the back of the hand, between the index and middle finger, then around the bow and clips back to itself on the inside of the wrist. It usually has a dual adjustment system – one for the wrist fitting and the other to adjust the length around the bow.
The string lies between the index and middle finger.
The Bow Sling
This is made of a loop of cord or leather that is fitted to the bow. The bow hand goes through the loop, so that when the bow is shot the weight is transferred onto the wrist. This type of sling can work well and some clubs fit them to their club bows. It is also a useful training device to keep the hand relaxed throughout the shot.
The bow sling remains on the bow. It needs to be adjusted so that it is loose over the back of the hand at full draw.
Tabs
Tabs have two main functions: to protect the fingers as the bow is drawn and shot, and to help align the hand with the jawbone at full draw. There are many types of tabs on the market, but they all fall into two categories. One type is aligned to the hand and is adjusted to become part of the hand. The other type is aligned with the bowstring and becomes part of the bow. The two most popular are the A and F Dutch tab and the Cavalier Elite tab. Both of these can be aligned with the hand, but the Cavalier Elite can also be adjusted so that it becomes part of the bow.
The key point with both types is that the string must be placed in the first joint of the middle finger. Tabs generally come in three sizes. When choosing a tab, you need to ensure that it is wide enough so that your fingers are fully on the leather backing, but not so big that there is spare facing around the edge of the fingers.
On the A & F tab the bottom screw needs to be in place to hold the tab face in position.
The Cavalier Elite tab has a front plate draw string to hold it on the finger and the tab faces.
The string should sit in the first joints of the fingers.
The elastic needs to be firm around the finger and the index finger slightly squeezed between the spacer and the top anchor plate.
Aligned with the Hand
If a finger spacer is fitted to the tab, it is of the type that is fitted to the hand. The A and F is a good example of this. You need to adjust it so that the index finger just fits between the spacer and the platform. This should be a snug fit, but not so that it restricts circulation. The elastic loop fits around the middle finger and is adjusted so that again it is a snug fit. The elastic can be replaced with a cord or leather strap, if you prefer. The face of the tab must be attached at the bottom of the plate with the bolt and insert supplied; this will ensure that the tab face remains fixed to the back plate and aids consistency.
The spacer keeps the tab aligned with the hand and the platform ensures the distance between the nook and eye is consistent. Wietse van Alten (The Netherlands). (Andrew Callaway)
The tab may need some work on it to make it fit your hand and fingers satisfactorily. This may involve extending the slots in the leather and back plate; you can use a small file to cut the faces accordingly. Once the tab is adjusted properly it should be stable in the hand and not easily twisted away from the line of the fingers. When you use this type of tab, the spacer needs to be pushed back towards the knuckles and the first three fingers placed on the string, with the string in the first joint of the middle finger. Once the bow is being drawn back, the spacer should be clamped firmly between the fingers, helping to keep the alignment with the hand. As you draw the string back, ensure that the fingers stay in place, curled on the string.
At full draw, the platform of the tab is placed under the jaw, ensuring that the distance between the nock and the eye is consistent. The angle of the spacer can be adjusted so that the platform can be better fitted to the jawline.
The tab is placed with the fingers in the first joint and aligned with the string; Jim Buchanan (GB European gold medallist).
Aligned to the Bow
The Cavalier Elite tab is a dual tab, as it can be used with or without the finger spacer. When using it without the finger spacer, it is adjusted so that the cord loop fits snugly over the middle finger. The front of the tab plate is placed up against the string; your first three fingers then need to be placed so that the string is in the first joint of the middle finger. With this type of tab, compared to the A and F tab, you will find that the tab and loop sit further towards the tips of the fingers. Once the fingers are placed on the string, they should remain curled around the string, until the arrow is released. At full draw, the platform must, as with the A and F, make contact under the jawline. On this tab, the angle of the platform can be adjusted so that it will fit your jawline better.
The bracer protects the arm from the string on release; A. Karaseova (Belarus). (Lana Needham)
Bracers
A bracer protects the inner part of the bow arm from the bowstring, which can come in contact with the arm as the arrow is shot from the bow. It also holds your clothing out of the way. Not wearing one can be quite painful and so bracers should be provided on a beginner’s course. There are many different types on the market. Some even cover the upper arm – although this is a little excessive it is useful to have at least one of these in the club’s equipment box as some beginners are scared of the string contact and wearing one of these will allow them to concentrate on learning how to shoot. When you come to buy a bracer, choose one that will cover a larger part of your inner forearm, as some are short and so may not protect your arm fully. Also, make sure that it has a smooth finish and that it is not too thick, otherwise it will bulk out your arm and interfere with the string’s trajectory.
A bracer can be made from thin flexible plastic to suit the archer. (Lana Needham)
In good old ‘Blue Peter’ fashion, you can make a bracer out of a plastic washing-up bottle and elastic.
Quivers
Quivers are used to hold your arrows. If there is not a quiver available on a beginner’s course, you can put your arrows in your jeans’ back pocket. This will allow you to reach your arrows without bending over and possibly moving your feet, and so will assist in keeping your line and flow of shooting. As with most equipment, there is a huge choice of types and materials, and prices to go with them. It is worth getting one that has a pocket, so that you can keep your tab in it, and enough room so that you can carry more than six arrows. When you shoot outside, in most competitions you will have to shoot six arrows. In case one of your arrows becomes damaged, it is prudent to have at least one spare in your quiver.
A simple quiver can be made from a piece of 3in plastic pipe blocked at the bottom end. Attach two strings at either end to hold it to your belt. Some clubs use these for the beginner’s courses. They are simple to make, or you can make a copy similar to commercial ones.
Phase Two: ‘Wanting a Bow’ (and the Rest of Your Equipment)
As already noted, it is best to leave buying your first bow until you have settled in your archery a little and the muscles needed to shoot the bow have been developed. The following equipment will be needed:
bow – ask around for a second-hand bow and always acquire a bow before you purchase any arrows; arrows are matched to the bow and not the other way around!bowstringsarrowssightsstabilizersclickersbuttons/reststackle box.Buying a Bow
The limiting factor on buying a bow or any equipment is how much you can afford and want to spend on it. It is a good idea to try to purchase a second-hand bow as your first bow. A good second-hand bow (£100 to £150) will shoot better than a new bow of a similar price. Not only do you need to think about how much you want to pay for a bow, you must also consider the cost of the other items that will be needed to complete your equipment. The bow you normally use on a beginner’s course will be a ‘training bow’; this bow is designed as an introductory level bow for learning to shoot. I therefore suggest that you purchase a better standard of bow than a training bow, otherwise you will find it necessary to upgrade quite quickly.
A quiver holds the arrows and tab when not shooting and can hold a small amount of equipment; Tim Cuddihy (Australia). (Lana Needham)
A simple homemade quiver ensures that limited funding can be spent on the necessities.
Bows can come in many colours and types. (Lana Needham)
When you are looking to buy your second bow, this may well be the time to buy ‘new’. You can then sell on your first bow; in most cases, second-hand bows hold their price quite well. The important point to remember when buying any bow is that it needs to be suitable for you; it does not matter if it is a good price or a nice colour, it needs to be the correct length and poundage for you.
Understanding the Bow
Bows are measured by their length, how tall they are and how much effort it will take to pull them (this is measured in pounds [lb] and is directly proportional to how far you draw the bow back). Standard bow lengths are manufactured in increments of 2in; 64in, 66in, 68in and 70in being the most common sizes. Bows for juniors are generally shorter than these and the length may be made up of different combinations of riser and limb.
Limbs made by Hoyt and Win & Win; both sets are the same poundage and length.
Risers (centre of the bow) usually come in two lengths: 23in and 25in (short and long).
The limbs commonly come in ‘short’,‘medium’ and ‘long’ and will be marked with the weight of the limb for a given length of bow. This will be shown as, for example: ‘Medium 68" 30lb @ 28"’ or ‘Medium 66" 32lb @ 28"’.
This would indicate that these are medium limbs, which can be fitted to a short or long riser. In a short riser, they would make a 66in bow and in a long riser a 68in bow. If these medium limbs were fitted to a short riser, and the string were to be drawn back so that the distance from the string to the pivot point + 1.75in (1¾⁄in), (the pivot point and the button position is in the same vertical alignment so it can be easier to measure 1.75in in front of the button) of the bow would measure 28in. The poundage on the fingers (to hold the string) would be 32lb, although it is best to use a set of bow scales to ensure that the marked indication on the limbs is accurate.
Now you need to calculate your draw length to determine the length of arrow you will need. If you use a 28in arrow and, when you draw the bow back, the point of the arrow is level with a point that is 1.75in in front of the button, you will have on your fingers whatever poundage the limbs are marked at. However, it is likely that your arrows will not be 28in long. As a rule of thumb, the poundage will differ from the marked weight by 2lb per inch of the actual draw length, whether it is shorter or longer than the 28in datum. The more you pull the bow back, the heavier the poundage. Therefore, if you draw a medium-limb 66in bow, marked at 32lb, and the measurement of the arrow is 26in to a point 1.75in in front of the button, this is 2in shorter than the limbs are marked; consequently you will need to take 4lb (2lb per inch) from the 32lb. This should give you a weight on the fingers of 28lb. It is always better to confirm the actual weight by using bow scales, because with second-hand limbs the weight indicated on the limbs may have changed slightly.
Limb weight selection. Find your draw length on the left-hand side, then work across the columns until the desired weight in the fingers is located. Move to the top of the chart to find the marked weight on the limb that you require for that bow weight.
I have included a chart will help you to select the limbs for your draw length. To use the chart you need to calculate the distance from the string to the pivot point + 1.75in. This is your ‘draw length’. Draw length is always calculated using this method; it is not calculated on the length of your arrow.
Finally, be aware that most bows now have adjustable poundage. Usually this will mean that for the marked poundage on the limbs you will be able to increase/decrease the weight up to 10 per cent, depending on the bow manufacturer. Generally, a bow will work better if you have higher poundage limbs set light, rather than light poundage limbs set at the highest poundage setting. This is covered in more detail in Chapter 4 (‘Limb Geometry’).
The following factors should be considered when buying a bow:
Is the person still growing?What length of bow will you require?What weight (poundage) of limbs and mass of bow will you require?How often are you intending to practise?Are you considering entering competitions?How much do you want to spend?Is the person still growing? Juniors have annoying habit of growing and never at the rate you think they will. Therefore, consider getting a slightly longer bow, so that as the junior grows the bow will last a little longer. But also bear in mind that, as they grow, they will use a longer arrow and the draw length will increase, therefore the poundage will increase. Consequently, make sure that as the junior grows the poundage of the bow does not increase to above what they can handle and control.
What length of bow will you require? The length of the bow is determined by your draw length. You may have noticed on the bow length chart that there is an overlap between the long and short riser lengths – as a result, you can have, for example, a 68in bow that is made up of a short riser and long limbs, or a long riser and medium limbs. For an established poundage, the long riser will have a better ‘cast’ (throw of the arrow). The chart gives you an idea of the bow-to-arrow length to help you select the correct length of bow.
Limbs of this type are made to the same standard so are interchangeable between different manufacturers of limbs and risers.
