23,94 €
A great foundation for any aspiring equestrian, providing safe, modern and current foundations to progress from in the equestrian industry. Filled with practical knowledge in horse riding, knowledge and care, the first volume in our foundation series is a must for anyone looking to learn the highest standards of equestrianism from the world leading British Horse Society education team. Recommended reading for the British Horse Society Stage 1 award in horse care and riding for those wishing to start their career in the professional industry.
Das E-Book können Sie in Legimi-Apps oder einer beliebigen App lesen, die das folgende Format unterstützen:
Seitenzahl: 228
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2017
The British Horse Society would like to thank all those who have been involved in the development and production of Complete Horsemanship Volume I including Berkshire Riding Centre, Home Farm Hothorpe, Millfield School, Warwickshire College, Wellington Riding Centre, The BHS Quality and Training Committee, Cardboard Bedding Solutions Ltd, Jon Stroud Media, Sorbeo Horse Bedding, Tara Taylor Photography, Lucy Higginson and Sabrina Jones FBHS.
INTRODUCTION
SECTION 1 CARE
Chapter 1 Horse Behaviour
Chapter 2 Safety around Horses
Chapter 3 Handling Horses
Chapter 4 Identifying Horses
Chapter 5 Horse Health and Welfare
Chapter 6 Mucking Out
Chapter 7 Feeding Horses
Chapter 8 Grooming Horses
Chapter 9 Rugs for Horses
Chapter 10 Field Care
Chapter 11 Tacking Up a Horse
SECTION 2 RIDING
Chapter 12 Riding a Horse on the Flat
WHAT’S NEXT
Welcome to the Complete Horsemanship series from the British Horse Society (BHS). If you are passionate about horses and want to learn more about how to care for them and improve your riding skills, this first volume is for you.
In it you will find chapters on how to:
• Understand why horses behave the way they do and how to handle their behaviour.
• Feed, groom, and generally look after horses.
• Recognise what to look for on a day-to-day basis and know who to tell if you think a particular horse is unwell or behaving differently.
• Describe and talk about the physical make-up of horses.
• Understand what horses need on a daily basis.
• Tack up and provide rugs for horses doing different types of work.
Most of all, it will help you have fun developing your riding and horse management skills, whether you want to enjoy this wonderful sport recreationally, or you’re thinking about pursuing a career with horses.
If you are thinking of a career in the equestrian world — whether as a groom, equine dentist or physiotherapist, or even if you aspire to riding in the Olympics, you will need to develop the skills that will make you stand out to employers.
The BHS education system is one of the best and most widely-respected in the world. The Complete Horsemanship series supports anyone wishing to study qualifications within the BHS Equine Excellence Pathway. There are a number of bespoke professional career pathways available, depending on your long-term goal. Whether it’s becoming a successful groom or a stable manager, an equine teacher or a specialist coach, there’s a pathway to choose from.
Equestrian qualifications show potential employers the skills accrued for a career with horses. The BHS qualifications framework is internationally recognised, with some of the best instructors, riders and grooms coming through the BHS Equine Excellence Pathway, including Fellows Carl Hester and Yogi Breisner. The BHS Equine Excellence Pathway gives each student the opportunity to gain qualifications and awards in their chosen profession. They have been specially developed through extensive consultation with the equine industry to incorporate the latest research and thinking, with current practices and friendly assessment methods.
Evolution, domestication and ‘flight or fight’
Herd life
Summary
If we are to understand why horses behave the way they do, we first need to learn the behaviour of wild horses and how domestication has led them to adapt to a changed environment. Horses have been domesticated for around 6,000 years and their interaction with humans has given them the benefits of regular food, water, treatment of disease and injury and protection from predators. However, with domestication comes behavioural changes — a domesticated environment can be very unnatural. A wild horse is able to choose his herd mates, may browse for his own food and water and is free to choose how and when he socialises, exercises and rests.
A domesticated horse is often stabled, restricting in his freedom to move, browse for food or water, or socialise and interact with other horses.
Horses have evolved over millions of years to browse and eat for 14–16 hours per day and can travel huge distances in the wild in search of food and water. They are also prey animals and have depended on their flight or fight instinct for survival. When frightened, they will usually run away, but if this isn’t an option they may fight.
Although horses in our care face far fewer threats, their flight or fight instincts still lead them to run first and think later; they may often spook at things that humans are unable to see, hear or smell.
Horses are very social, herd-orientated animals and are very good at communicating, cooperating and looking after one another. They form close relationships with one another and often create friendships called pair bonds, which can last a lifetime. These relationships help keep them safe from predators, as herd members can keep an eye out for one another and raise the alarm if they see a threat. Even in a domesticated herd you will rarely see all the horses lying down together; instead herd members take turns to rest while another horse stands over them as a lookout.
Many of us have experienced a horse who calls and paces the fence line when left in the field on his own, or one who refuses to load, naps when leaving the yard on his own, or doesn’t seem to be able to concentrate during a dressage test.
Some horses suffer from separation anxiety, becoming very stressed when away from other horses, and must be gradually re-educated to feel safe when alone. The same is true for horses who barge out of the stable in the morning in anticipation of being led to the field, or become excited and jog on the way there. Escaping the confines of the stable for the exercise, social interaction and grazing available in the field can be very exciting.
Horses in a herd.
You may have heard people talk about ‘alpha’ mares or stallions, by which we refer to horses who appear to be in charge of the others and will fight off those who stand in their way.
Different horses lead the herd in different situations — one particular horse or pair may lead it in search of better grazing, for example — but you may see a different horse ‘taking charge’ of a pile of hay and yet another one seeing off a predator to protect the herd.
To create a peaceful and safe herd, it is important to establish social structure; however, this structure is very complex. Many people believe it is constant and based on dominance, which is not always the case. Although you may see a horse being aggressive towards another in a domesticated environment, this is because resources such as food, water and space are limited and the horse exerts aggression to secure enough to eat. For example, you may see one horse fighting off the others when hay is put in the field. However, such behaviour may be far less common in the wild if resources are plentiful. Similarly, you may see a domesticated horse show territorial aggression to a field mate who comes too close, but compare the space a horse has in the wild to that available in a small man-made paddock. The domesticated horse is simply using his survival instinct to ensure he has enough food and space. You will often see that horses grazing together will establish a ‘pecking order’, on the basis of who is the most dominant animal.
Dominant horse sending another horse away.
Horses may also be territorial in the stable, perhaps turning their hindquarters threateningly towards an approaching handler. They may also lunge at another horse walking past their stable in an attempt to defend their space.
The frustrations of confinement can sometimes be expressed through territorial aggression; entering a stable you might be greeted with laid-back ears and bared teeth, or a horse might kick the stable wall when eating. Try to turn out a horse who does this as much as possible and, if he has to be stabled, ensure that he has plenty of forage and stable enrichment such as toys. Other manifestations of such emotions are biting the stable door, the lead rope or even themselves. A horse may also be protective of his food; perhaps he has been bullied in the field or was starved in the past. Remember that aggression is rarely seen in wild horses and the way we look after and manage our horses will shape how they behave.
An aggressive horse may be very dangerous and some such behaviour becomes habitual and difficult to change.
If a horse is showing aggressive behaviour it is important to ask a vet to check whether there are any physical issues (e.g. back or teeth problems) underpinning the behaviour. Ill-fitting tack can be a trigger, so you need to seek advice if you think this might be a problem.
Having forage available at all times helps decrease anxiety and territorial behaviour about food: remember in the wild horses would eat for 14–16 hours a day. See if any horses in the field are showing aggression, and consider whether they have enough space, enough food to eat and enough water.
Horses cannot talk but they communicate with us through their body language and facial expressions, sometimes coupling the latter with movement. A horse may put his ears back if another horse comes too close. If the intruder continues to approach, the horse who feels his space is being invaded may then lunge forward, baring his teeth threateningly.
Like humans, every horse is an individual and will show different behaviour when stressed, anxious or threatened, and it is important to understand how each one expresses his emotions. Some horses may be anxious, neighing, pawing at the ground and moving around the stable if a new horse joins the yard, while others may quietly eat from their haynet.
As we said earlier, the flight or fight instinct may help protect horses in the wild, but running away can be a bad idea in domesticated situations. We therefore need to help horses become more confident to help prevent them from spooking, which can be dangerous for their riders and handlers.
A relaxed horse.
As a prey animal, horses have large eyes and rely on their eyes and wide field of vision to watch out for predators. Horses have 215-degree vision but cannot see directly behind or directly in front of them, which means you should take care to avoid alarming them when walking behind them. Horses can tell the difference between blue and green in bright conditions but they struggle to distinguish colour in dim light. They may find it more difficult to jump if an obstacle is the same or close to the colour of the ground. Also, horses find it more difficult to judge a fence if it is painted in a single colour (e.g. white wings with white poles) than if the fence is painted in two different colours (such as blue and white poles).
They find it difficult to adjust their vision when moving from a bright area to a dark one, and may find this frightening, e.g. a dark stable or trailer. When a horse is scared you may see the whites of his eyes. This can also indicate aggression, in which case you should remain calm and assess whether it is safe to approach.
Horses cannot hear low sound frequencies well but their ability to hear high ones is very advanced. This means they can hear and locate sounds such as a twig snapping, which humans may easily miss. The ears are a great indicator of where the horse’s attention lies and how he is feeling. A horse with pricked ears is often alert, interested and listening to something in front of him. If the ears are back, he may be listening to something behind him. If the horse is frightened or aggressive then the ears may be pinned backwards against the head. Ears held to the side often indicate that the horse is relaxed, and they may flick back and forth as the horse listens to the rider.
A horse’s sense of taste and smell are very important in investigating new objects, working out what is safe to eat, and are also involved in how horses greet and socialise with one another. A horse may flare his nostrils and snort when he is frightened, or the nostrils may narrow and you will see wrinkles when he is annoyed or irritated.
A horse may also curl his top lip and show his teeth, which may make him look as if he is laughing! This is called the Flehmen response and is usually seen when a horse smells or tastes something unusual or unfamiliar. A horse may also show his teeth when he is annoyed but this is usually paired with pinned-back ears. The mouth will often be tense and tight when the horse is worried or annoyed, but relaxed when calm and content.
As discussed above, horses use their whole bodies to communicate with one another, and learning what to watch out for when a horse is telling you he is anxious, stressed or about to kick, bite or spook will help you to keep safe.
When resting or dozing, horses may also rest a hind leg, droop their bottom lip and close their eyes. However, when a horse is uptight, sees something he perceives as a potential threat or may be about to spook, the head and neck are raised, the ears snap forward towards the object of their attention, the muscles become tense, the tail is raised and the nostrils flared.
This horse’s facial expression warns you that he is not happy.
A raised head and neck may suggest something the horse perceives as a potential threat has caught his attention — he may be about to spook at something in the hedgerow, for example. But the head and neck may also be raised when the horse is being ridden, indicating that the horse does not understand the rider’s aids, is in pain, or is avoiding the bit. Conversely, a resting horse will often have a low head and neck, but this could also suggest illness or depression. It is very important to look at the whole body, posture and facial expression to tell.
The tail position also tells you a lot about how a horse is feeling. If it is clamped down, the horse may be worried or anxious. Slow swishing may be to get rid of flies, but may also denote anxiety. An aggressive or irritated horse may swish his tail from side to side quickly; this could also indicate that he is about to kick or bite. A raised tail may indicate that something has caught the horse’s attention. Remember the flight or fight instinct that the horse has? Biting and kicking derives from the fight aspect; if horses feel cornered and are unable to escape something frightening they may lash out.
• A wild horse has a very different life from a domesticated one but they share the same needs: the company of other horses, forage and freedom to exercise.
• Wild horses eat for 14–16 hours per day and walk many miles to search for food and water. Domesticated horses still have a great need to exercise and eat for many hours per day.
• Horses have a hard-wired run now, think later flight or fight instinct and often spook at things we cannot see, hear or smell. When horses spook or run away this is simply a response to their survival mechanism. In a horse’s mind, they need to run away in order to survive.
• Domestication has changed the way a horse behaves as a consequence of the unnatural environment we put our horses in. How we stable, ride and feed them from haynets is very different from a wild horse’s lifestyle.
• Horses love to socialise with other horses in a herd environment and some may be anxious when taken away from other horses or kept on their own.
• Pecking order and aggression may develop between horses in a domesticated herd environment.
• Horses show aggression for a variety of reasons. For example, they may put their ears flat back and bare their teeth if another horse gets too close to the hay they are eating in the field, or they may lunge out when another horse walks past their stable in an attempt to defend their space.
• An aggressive horse may be very dangerous. This behaviour can be very difficult to change as it will often have been caused by a past event, which can be self-reinforcing and become a habit.
• Horses communicate with us through their body language and facial expressions.
• To keep safe around horses you must be able to read a horse’s body language and facial expressions to understand how he is feeling and how he is going to react.
1. Spend time observing horses in their stables or out in their fields to see how they interact with others.
2. Watch how horses interact with people.
3. Observe the facial expressions and body language of the horse while you are working with him, and how these change with different situations.
Looking after yourself
Accident procedure
Fire precautions
Insurance
Summary
Safety: it’s a word that makes people roll their eyes. However, it is crucial to understand why it is so important around horses, and how you as an individual play a part in it. The easiest way to stay safe is to pay careful attention to everything you do, and consider beforehand, ‘What could go wrong?’ (this is sometimes called a risk assessment), so that we all can reduce the chance of those things happening. An employer has a legal responsibility to ensure that an employee’s health, safety and welfare are protected (Health and Safety at Work Act 1974). However, legally, an employee also has to take necessary precautions, such as wearing personal protective equipment (PPE), attending training and following any safety rules put in place by management. You have a responsibility to yourself, your colleagues and your employer (as well as to the horses) to work in a safe and responsible manner. You must also tell your supervisor or employer about any potential health and safety issues you are concerned about.
When handled badly, horses have a well-documented potential to bite at one end and kick at the other. Their behaviour, while perfectly normal to them, may be unexpected to us. Therefore you can never absolutely predict what a horse is going to do. By learning as much as you can about equine behaviour, you can be better prepared for most situations; prevention really is the key. You may lead the same quiet and easy horse to the field every day for a month without issue; then one day something unexpected could result in rope-burnt hands if you haven’t worn gloves, or — more seriously — a major head injury if you are not wearing your hard hat. Even the best, most experienced horse people get it wrong from time to time.
Working on a yard is physically demanding and often requires you to think on your feet. On a busy day we are all guilty of improvising with whatever comes to hand rather than sourcing the correct tool for the job. However a one-off improvisation may quickly become a habit that may cause problems at another time.
Hopefully, carrying out a ‘dynamic’ (on the spot) risk assessment is something you do automatically. It simply means that you consider the possible consequences before tackling a task. Never feel you must do something in a certain way just because it has always been done in that way. Ultimately it is you who could end up hurt. If you can see a potential risk you MUST make people aware and find a safer way to do it. Often it is just a case of using common sense.
Pay attention to what is happening around you. If someone is trying to lead an excitable horse out to the field, hopefully you will recognise how unpopular you will be if you choose this moment to trot another horse down the yard or shake a rug out. Make sure you communicate clearly to help protect each other’s safety. At most yards the practice of stopping before entering an arena and calling out to anyone inside for permission to enter is used. This gives the riders inside time to adjust their speed, location, or to let an inexperienced horse see that the door is open. In return, it may save you from getting run over the moment you step inside.
Having music in the yard can create a good atmosphere, but make sure you can hear each other in case someone needs help or a loose horse suddenly clatters in. Similarly, it is safer not to use headphones.
Wearing PPE (personal protective equipment) should be part of your everyday routine. It is sometimes seen as an inconvenience, but simple measures such as keeping a pair of gloves tucked in the waistband of your jodhpurs so they are accessible may save your hands from injury. While it is not necessary to wear a hat all the time, it is sensible to put one on (and fasten the chinstrap) when leading, riding or lungeing horses, or in any situation where you may be vulnerable, no matter how quiet the horse is perceived to be. A frightened horse can lash out in a split second and catch your head accidentally, with life-changing consequences.
What you wear on the yard might not seem important, but being comfortable and correctly dressed for the job reinforces your professionalism. As country folk have a habit of telling you, there is no such thing as the wrong weather, only the wrong clothes for the weather. Make sure you are prepared for all eventualities; there really is nothing worse than being soaked first thing in the morning and having to stay wet or cold all day.
You can never guarantee how a horse is going to react when turned out; a correctly fitted hat and gloves are essential items of PPE in this situation.
Incorrect dress for working on a yard.
In the summer it may be tempting to top up your tan in a vest top, but this leaves vulnerable areas such as the tops of your arms and collarbones exposed. A T-shirt offers an extra layer between your skin and the floor, and an uneven tan is a small price to pay for life-limiting wounds, bites or grazes.
Good lifting technique is often overlooked. The damage inflicted from bad technique often accumulates, giving you a problem some time later. It may be more convenient to carry one water bucket but this doesn’t do your back many favours. Split your load between two buckets and carry one in each hand. Partially filled buckets are less likely to spill and the load will be equally balanced. To resist strain when lifting, you should bend your knees and keep your back straight; it might seem awkward at first but you will soon get used to it. If you have heavy or clumsy things such as bags of feed to move, use a wheelbarrow. If there is anything you can’t comfortably lift on your own, ask for help. Both lifters should bend their knees, keep a straight back and make sure they lift at the same time.
Working with horses is physically demanding. If you are unused to this sort of work, you may find it takes time to get ‘yard fit’, and that you lag behind completing tasks and feel tired sooner than your workmates.
Just as you wouldn’t tackle a half marathon without training for it, you need to build up progressively the amount you do on the yard to avoid overloading your muscles and joints. You must also be willing to push yourself through this stage, as it will get easier over time.
Horses are, by nature, unpredictable and, in certain circumstances, even the quietest horse may act unexpectedly. Observe the horse’s body language and facial expressions and take steps to keep both of you safe. Consider what may have caused the horse to react and whether there are steps you could take to avoid a recurrence. If a particular horse gives indications that he may be difficult to handle — biting, kicking or becoming unsettled in the field or stable — report it to your supervisor without delay. Such behaviour may compromise the horse’s welfare and your safety.
Some common situations include:
1. A horse who kicks or tries to nip when being groomed or tacked up
This often results from the horse being uncomfortable or very sensitive to touch. The answer is to find a way to work with the horse rather than rebuke him. Always tie the horse up in a way that gives you plenty of room to move around him without becoming trapped against a wall. Try to stand close to the quarters when grooming so, if the horse does kick, you are pushed out of the way rather than on the receiving end of a full body blow. Take care when brushing around sensitive areas (e.g. under belly, stifle, girth area) and use firm strokes with a soft brush to try to avoid accidental tickling. Fastening the girth is likely to provoke a reaction from a sensitive or uncomfortable horse, so fasten it slowly and gently. If you are dealing with a horse known to react badly to girthing (e.g. by cow-kicking), it may be prudent to wear a hard hat when bending down to take the girth under his belly.
2. A horse who becomes unsettled when you enter the stable or field
Try to work out what has upset the horse. It may be better to give the horse time to settle before going closer, rather than provoking further upset; for example, if the hunt has just passed by. If the horse becomes restless because he cannot see others, moving him may help him to settle again. Always think about your own safety first.
Make sure you know the names of your yard first aiders and the location of the first aid kit. Attending a first aid course is an excellent idea.
If you do come across an accident:
• Stay calm and assess the situation. Do not put yourself in danger; if you get hurt you can’t help anyone.
• Make the area safe. If there are loose horses they could cause further injuries to the casualty and to you.
• Get help.
• Encourage the casualty to keep still and reassure them.
• Keep them warm with a coat or blanket.
• Follow instructions of the person in charge. You may have to phone for an ambulance so make sure you know the yard’s postcode and give clear details of where the accident is. You might be asked to stand at the entrance to the yard to direct the ambulance.
• You might be required to sign the accident book as a witness.
