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Scot Simpson

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The bestselling step-by-step framing guide--updated and expanded to meet 2018 codes and standards Complete Book of Framing, Second Edition--Updated and Expanded is a comprehensive guide to rough carpentry and framing, written by an expert with over forty years of framing experience. This book guides the reader through step-by-step framing instructions for floors, walls, roofs, door and window openings, and stairs. Hundreds of full-color illustrations and photos enable novice and professional framers to understand and master framing techniques. This Updated and Expanded Second Edition includes the framing techniques of the 2018 International Building Code (IBC), International Residential Code (IRC), and updated OSHA rules. It also includes new coverage of today's electric tools, wind and earthquake framing, medical and physiological factors of framing, and a revised safety chapter. Builders will find information on nailing patters, overall layout, engineered wood patterns, and green framing. In addition, the book offers readers tools and techniques for preparing for a job and managing a team. This Second Edition--Updated and Expanded: * Includes hundreds of full-color illustrations depicting step-by-step framing techniques * Offers guidance on today's electric tools and structural enhancements for natural disasters * Features a revised chapter on safety to reflect the medical and physiological factors of framing * Meets the framing techniques of the 2018 International Building Code (IBC), International Residential Code (IRC), and Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) standards Complete Book of Framing: An Illustrated Guide for Residential Construction, Second Edition--Updated and Expanded is an excellent resource for framers, carpenters, and contractors of all experience levels. Framer-friendly tips throughout the book show how to complete framing tasks efficiently and effectively.

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Complete Book of Framing

An Illustrated Guid for Residential Construction

Scott Simpson

Cover image: © Scot Simpson Cover design: Wiley

Copyright © 2019 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.

Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. Published simultaneously in Canada.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600, or on the web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, or online at www.wiley.com/go/permissions.

Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor the author shall be liable for damages arising herefrom.

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Wiley publishes in a variety of print and electronic formats and by print-on-demand. Some material included with standard print versions of this book may not be included in e-books or in print-on-demand. If this book refers to media such as a CD or DVD that is not included in the version you purchased, you may download this material at http://booksupport.wiley.com. For more information about Wiley products, visit www.wiley.com.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:

Names: Simpson, Scot, author.

Title: Complete book of framing : an illustrated guide for residential

 construction / Scot Simpson.

Description: Second edition—updated and expanded. | New Jersey : John Wiley  & Sons, Inc., [2019] | Includes index. |

Identifiers: LCCN 2018054066 (print) | LCCN 2018054893 (ebook) | ISBN  9781119528500 (AdobePDF) | ISBN 9781119528517 (ePub) | ISBN 9781119528524 (paper)

Subjects: LCSH: Framing (Building) | Wooden-frame buildings—Design and  construction. | House framing.

Classification: LCC TH2301 (ebook) | LCC TH2301 .S483 2019 (print) | DDC  694/.2—dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018054066

CONTENTS

Cover

About the Author

Acknowledgments

Introduction

Chapter One Introduction to Framing

Framing Terms

Framing Lumber

Framing Sheathing

Engineered Wood Products

Lumber and Wood Structural Panel Grade Stamps

Framing Nails

Framing Tools

The Switch to Cordless Tools

Framing Tool Truck

Cutting Lumber

Protecting Lumber from Decay

Preservative Treated Wood

Chapter Two Nailing Patterns

Nail Top Plate to Studs

Nail Bottom Plate to Studs

Nail Double Plate to Top Plate

Nail Corner

Nail Walls Together or Nail Double Studs

Nail Trimmer to Stud

Concrete Nailing

Nail Bearing and Nonbearing Walls to Floor Perpendicular to Joists

Nail Bearing and Nonbearing Walls to Floor Parallel to Joists

Nail Header to Stud

Nail Let-in Bracing

Nail End of Joist

Nail Rim Joist

Nail Sheathing

Nail Built-up Girders and Beams

Nail Joist Blocking

Nail Lapping Joists

Nail Drywall Backing

Nail Trusses to Wall

Nail Ceiling Joists, Rafters, and Ridge

Nail Rafters to Wall

Nail Blocks

Nail Fascia and Bargeboard

Chapter Three Floor Framing

Step 1–Crown and Place Joists

Steps 2 and 3–Nail Rim Joists in Place and Cut Joists to Length

Step 4–Nail Joists in Place

Step 5–Frame Openings in Joists

Steps 6 and 7–Block Bearing Walls

Step 8–Drywall Backing

Step 9–Subfloor Sheathing

Chapter Four Wall Framing

Step 1–Spread Headers

Step 2–Spread Makeup

Steps 3–7–Assemble Wall

Step 8–Square Wall

Step 9–Sheathe Wall

Step 10–install nail-Flange Windows

Steps 11–15–Standing and Setting Wall

Step 16–Plumb and line

Framing Rake Walls

Chapter Five Roof Framing

Roof framing Terms

Step 1–Find the Lengths of Common Rafters

Step 2–Cut Common Rafter

Step 3–Set Ridge Board

Step 4–Set Common Rafters

Step 5–Find Length of Hip and Valley Rafters

Step 6–Cut Hip and Valley Rafters

Step 7–Set Hip and Valley Rafters

Step 8–Set Jack Rafters

Step 9–Block Rafters and Lookouts

Step 10–Set Fascia

Step 11–Install Sheathing

Learning Rafters by Example

Ceiling Joists

Step 1–Spread Trusses

Step 2–Sheathe Gable Ends

Step 3–Set Gable Ends

Step 4–Roll Trusses

Steps 5–8

Chapter Six Doors, Windows, and Stairs

Door Framing Terms

Installation of Exterior Doors

Installation of Nail-Flange Window

Installation of Window Flashing

Installation of Sliding Glass Doors

Installation of Stairs

Before Stairs Are Built...

Curved Stairs

Chapter Seven Layout

Wall Layout

Joist Layout

Rafter or truss Layout

Roof Layout

Chapter Eight Engineered Wood products

Engineered Panel Products

Engineered Lumber Products

Chapter Nine Wind and Earthquake Framing

The Strength of Good Framing

Understanding Structural Loads

Building Code Load Requirements

Regional Considerations

Framing Details

Hold-Downs

Positive Placement Nail Guns

Chapter Ten Building Code Requirements

Introduction to Building Codes

Framing According to Code

Protection from Decay

Termite Protection

Chapter Eleven Green Framing

Green Framing Feeling

Advanced Framing

Material Selection

Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)

SIP Installation

SIP Tools

Chapter Twelve Preparing for a Job

Developing a Job Start Checklist

Reviewing the Plans and Making Preparations

Organizing the Job Site

Chapter Thirteen Managing the Framing Start

Checking Exterior Wall Dimensions

Checking Reference Lines for Square

Adjusting Reference Lines

Checking the Building for Level

Chapter Fourteen Managing a Framing Team

Managing Your Team

The Role of Lead Framers

Quality Control

Organizing Tools and Materials

Teaching Framers

Framing Tips for Every Task

Planning and Scheduling

Recordkeeping

Productivity

Chapter Fifteen Safety

Personal Protective Equipment

Hand Tools

Ladders

Fall Protection

Rough terrain forklift Safety

Housekeeping

Chapter Sixteen Healthy Framing

Injuries and Prevention

NIOSH Lifting Equation

Glossary

Wiley End User License Agreement

Guide

Cover

Table of Contents

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About the Author

Scot Simpson has recently retired from a lifetime of framing houses, schools, and commercial buildings for 41 years. He owned a construction firm for 36 years. His firm, S.S. Framing, Inc., was based in Edmonds, WA. He developed and refined the methods in this book and used them to train his crews. Scot is the author of two other construction books and many articles for construction magazines, such as Fine Homebuilding and the Journal of Light Construction. He developed and hosted the video “Resisting the Forces of Earthquakes” with the Earthquake Engineering Research Institute and the International Conference of Building Officials.

Scot is a member of the International Code Council (ICC), the Construction Specifications Institute (CSI), and the Associated General Contractors of America (AGC), and was 2006 Chairman of the ABC Framers Council. He has presented training and seminars for the National Association of Homebuilders, the American Forest and Paper Association, and the International Conference of Building Officials, among others, in the U.S., Japan, Korea, the Czech Republic, Bulgaria, Spain, Greece, and Mexico.

Scot holds an MBA from Kent State University, as well as a BA and technical certificates in carpentry instruction, lumber grading, and industrial first aid.

Acknowledgments

The author appreciates and would like to acknowledge the following individuals and organizations whose efforts and documents have provided content for this book:

Allan R. Simpson, Jr.; Dr. Alan Kelley; Lara Simpson, Bruce Simpson; Mars Simpson; Casey Miller; Dave Neiger; Jeff Harding; John E. Farrier APA, the Engineered Wood Association; The Association of Mechanical Engineers (ASME); Digital Canal Corporation; iLevel, a Weyerhaeuser Business, Boise, Idaho; The International Code Council (ICC); The Mason Contractors Association of America (MCAA); Simpson Lumber Company; The Simpson Strong-Tie Company; The Truss Plate Institute; the U.S. Geological Survey National Seismic Hazard Mapping Project; the Western Wood Products Association (WWPA); and Premier Building Systems.

Introduction

I was a framing contractor for 36 years. I've spent most of my career as a lead framer, directing my framing crews and training workers to become framers. In my teaching, I found that much of the information I needed was not available in a good book, so I wrote one, Framing & Rough Carpentry. As I started spending more of my time training and working with lead framers, I again looked for a good, easy-to-understand reference. I didn't find what I needed, so I wrote another book, Advanced Framing Methods, that provides all the information a framer needs to move up to the next level—becoming a lead framer. The Complete Book of Framing is the combination of those two books, updated with full-color illustrations and photographs, plus additional information—all presented in what I've come to think of as a “framer-friendly” format.

Now, as a retired framer, I realize how much I abused my body during a lifetime of framing. While updating this book I added a section on “Healthy Framing”—what you need to know about how framing affects your body; and what you can do to minimize those effects.

If you're a novice with no framing experience, you'll see the basics of framing shown in a simple, step-by-step style that makes it easy to learn. Where possible, I included both photographs and drawings for each step—for quick and complete learning. The advanced information will be more difficult for a novice to understand, but getting a good feel for the framing basics that come before it will help. The more advanced tasks are also explained with photos and clear drawings.

If you're already an experienced framer, the book gives you some unique tools that you won't find anywhere else. For example, after struggling with rafters and rake walls for years, I developed a diagonal percent system that makes it easier. I use this for finding rafter lengths and rake wall stud heights. The book also explains all the “classic” methods for doing these tasks, but once you try the diagonal percent system, I doubt you'll go back to the old methods. Another example of the book's unique style of presentation is the layout language, which I developed for my first book.

If you're a lead framer, all the basic framing steps presented are important for reference and to help you teach and train crews. Most valuable, however, will be the guidance on managing a framing crew. Once you become a lead framer, your productivity is defined by the productivity of your crew. You'll need to think about the information they need and how to teach and manage them most effectively. Chapter 14 of this book is like a mini framer management course.

The charts and graphs in the book present information that is needed to manage a framing crew, but is not readily available. For example, the International Building Code chart makes it easy to reference the latest information governing framing. The Standard Framing Dimensions chart gathers the information that you “sort-of” remember, but it helps to have it handy for quick reference.

This book covers all the major topics related to framing. Each is presented in the easiest learning method. Because the framing tasks are diverse and vary in complexity, the format also varies a little throughout the book. All of the topics are covered in a framer-friendly way.

Framing is very rewarding work, both physically and mentally. One of the biggest challenges, however, is getting accurate information every time so that your framing is structurally sound, and provides the frame for a beautiful building. This book will assist you in that task.

Happy Framing,

Scot

Note: This book is intended to provide useful information for understanding residential framing, but it is not a substitute for professional construction, engineering, or repair evaluations, recommendations, or services. Readers should obtain assistance from appropriate experts, as needed.

Contents

Nail Top Plate to Studs

Nail Bottom Plate to Studs

Nail Double Plate to Top Plate

Nail Corner

Nail Walls Together or Nail Double Studs

Nail Trimmer to Stud

Concrete Nailing

Nail Bearing and Nonbearing Walls to Floor Perpendicular to Joists

Nail Bearing and Nonbearing Walls to Floor Parallel to Joists

Nail Header to Stud

Nail Let-in Bracing

Nail End of Joist

Nail Rim Joist

Nail Sheathing

Nail Built-up Girders and Beams

Nail Joist Blocking

Nail Lapping Joists

Nail Drywall Backing

Nail Trusses to Wall

Nail Ceiling Joists, Rafters, and Ridge

Nail Rafters to Wall

Nail Blocks

Nail Fascia and Bargeboard

If you are framing every day, the nailing patterns in this chapter will soon become second nature. For the part-time framer, they can serve as a quick reference.

Building codes and generally accepted practices were followed in developing the nailing patterns in this chapter. When the plans call for other nailing patterns, however, be sure to follow them.

You will notice in this chapter that there are different nails specified for the same nailing. There are many different styles of nails. The five most frequently used categories are:

Common nails

Box nails

Sinker nails

Gun nails

Positive placement nails

You will see a 3" × 0.131" nail specified frequently. This nail is the most common P-nail, or pneumatic gun nail, used.

The common nails are listed because they are typically specified by building codes. Most of the tests that are done to determine the strength needed use common nails. Box nails and sinker nails are listed because they are easier to nail, and less likely to split the wood. They are also commonly found at nail suppliers. The gun nails are listed because nail guns are used most often. Positive placement nails are made specially for nailing on hardware. They only work in positive placement nail guns.

Please note that common nails are listed with “common” written after the size. If the nail size has “common” after it, you can only use common nails. If it does not, you can use either common, box, or sinker nails.

The International Residential Code (IRC) is similar to the International Building Code (IBC) except it only covers one- and two-family dwellings. The patterns in this chapter are based on the 2018 IBC, which, in some cases, lists more nail options than the 2018 IRC.

Nail Top Plate to Studs

Nail Bottom Plate to Studs

Nail Double Plate to Top Plate

Nail Corner

Nail Walls Together or Nail Double Studs

Nail Trimmer to Stud

Concrete Nailing

Nail Bearing and Nonbearing Walls to Floor Perpendicular to Joists

Nail Bearing and Nonbearing Walls to Floor Parallel to Joists

Nail Header to Stud

Nail Let-in Bracing

Nail End of Joist

Nail Rim Joist

Nail Sheathing

Nail Built-up Girders and Beams

Nail Joist Blocking

Nail Lapping Joists

Nail Drywall Backing

Nail Trusses to Wall

Nail Ceiling Joists, Rafters, and Ridge

Nail Rafters to Wall

Nail Blocks

Nail Fascia and Bargeboard

Contents

Step 1–Crown and Place Joists

Steps 2 and 3–Nail Rim Joists in Place and Cut Joists to Length

Step 4–Nail Joists in Place

Step 5–Frame Openings in Joists

Steps 6 and 7–Block Bearing Walls

Step 8–Drywall Backing

Step 9–Subfloor Sheathing

This chapter illustrates the basic sequence for floor framing. Straight cuts and tight nailing make for a neat and professional job. Pay particular attention to the corners. It is important that they stay square and plumb up from the walls below, so the building does not gain or lose in size. Also pay close attention to laying the first sheet of subfloor sheathing. If it is laid straight and square, the entire subfloor will go down easily and you can avoid making extra cuts. If you make a sloppy start on the first sheet, you'll struggle to make each sheet fit, you'll waste valuable time, and you won't be proud of the results.

This chapter presents the 9 steps of floor framing.

Step 1–Crown and Place Joists

Spread joists so crowns are in the same direction.The crown is the highest point of a curved piece of lumber.

If the joists are resting on a foundation instead of a stud wall, then a sill plate, or mudsill, would be attached to the foundation, and the joists would rest on the plate or sill.

Steps 2 and 3–Nail Rim Joists in Place and Cut Joists to Length

If joists lap over an interior wall, they can be rough-cut approximately two inches beyond the wall. Do not let lapped joists go more than six inches beyond the wall.

Step 4–Nail Joists in Place

Step 5–Frame Openings in Joists

Steps 6 and 7–Block Bearing Walls

Step 8–Drywall Backing

Whenever the distance from the edge of the wall to the joist is greater than 6", place drywall backing on top of the wall.

The width of the 2 × 6 provides for 1" of nailing surface on either side of the 2 × 4 wall.

Step 9–Subfloor Sheathing

Six Steps for Setting First Sheet of Sheathing

Snap a chalk line 4'-¼" in from one rim to its opposite, perpendicular to the joists.

Apply glue to joists, if called for. Be sure to nail sheathing before glue dries.

Center first piece of sheathing to last joist and on the chalk line and nail each end at last joist.

Pull joist layout from corner of sheathing and mark sheathing.

Nail sheathing to joist next to rim joist along chalk line and layout mark.

Set remaining joists to layout marks and nail.

Setting Second Sheet

Set to chalk line and layout mark.

Setting Second Row and Remaining Sheets

Set to existing sheets, allowing " gaps.

Stagger sheet ends on joists.

Make sure rim joists are straight before they are nailed.

Each sheet must be supported by at least 3 joists.

Contents

Step 1‐Spread Headers

Step 2‐Spread Makeup

Steps 3‐7‐Assemble Wall

Step 8‐Square Wall

Step 9‐Sheathe Wall

Step 10‐Install Nail‐Flange Windows

Steps 11‐15‐Standing and Setting Wall

Step 16‐Plumb and Line

Framing Rake Walls

There are many ways to frame walls, but it is always good to follow an organized sequence. This 16-step sequence has been developed over years of framing. Following these steps will help you and your crew work efficiently and eliminate errors. It will also ensure consistency from framer to framer. For example, if you have to leave a wall in the middle of framing it to go to another task, another framer can easily pick up where you left off and proceed without having to check every nail to see what you have done.

Keep in mind, walls must be square, plumb, and level. Measure accurately, cut straight, and nail tight.

Rake walls (sometimes referred to as gable end walls) typically start at the height of the standard wall and go up to the ridge of the roof. The challenge of building a rake wall is figuring the heights of the studs and making sure the wall is built square. Lifting the assembled rake wall into place can also be a challenge. This chapter will cover three ways to figure stud heights and build rake walls efficiently—using methods that will make your work easier.

Step 1–Spread Headers

The steps outlined in the next pages follow the process of framing and sheathing the exterior walls in a horizontal position. The fully framed and sheathed wall is then lifted into position by using special lifting jacks or muscle power.

Step 2–Spread Makeup

Usually, one member of the framing crew does all the cutting. This promotes an efficient workflow and ensures consistent cuts. The person doing all the cutting must work fast enough to stay ahead of the remaining members of the crew.

Steps 3–7–Assemble Wall

3: Spread studs

4: Nail headers to studs

5: Nail top plate to studs and headers

6: Nail bottom plate to studs

7: Nail double plate to studs

Following the nailing patterns discussed in Chapter 2, the wall frame components can now be assembled. Pneumatic nailers reduce the amount of time required to perform this task.

Step 8–Square Wall

Exterior Wall

To square a wall, secure the bottom plate as shown, then move the top of the wall until the diagonal dimensions are equal. Once the wall is square, secure it with two nails through the double plate into the floor.

Nail on the inside of the bottom plate so the nails will hold the wall in position while it is being stood. The bottom plate should be nailed so that it's in line with the wall chalk line. Then, when the wall is raised, it will be in the right position.

Step 9–Sheathe Wall

Cover the entire wall with sheathing, then rout window and door openings with a panel pilot router bit (see illustration). Save the leftover pieces of sheathing for small areas and filling in between floors.

If the first floor exterior walls can be reached from the ground, then the sheathing may not be installed until after the walls are plumb and lined (straight and true; see Step 16-Plumb and Line). This is one way to eliminate the potential problem of a square wall sitting on a foundation that is not level.

Step 10–install nail-Flange Windows

Before Wall is Stood Up

Check plans for correct window.

Check window opening for protrusions (nails, wood splinters, etc.) that might hold window away from edge.

Install window flashing. (See “Window Flashing Installation,” Chapter 6.)

Set window in opening, making sure window is right side up.

Slide window to each end of opening, and draw a line on the sheathing or flashing with a pencil along the edge of window. (Draw lines before caulking window.)

Caulk back side of header and jambs window flanges with ⅜" bead. Do not caulk sill. Caulk in line with prepunched nail holes.

Center window in marks you have just drawn.

Nail window sides and bottoms, using appropriate nails.

Do not nail top of window.

Steps 11–15–Standing and Setting Wall

11: Stand wall.

12: Set bottom plate.

13: Set double plate.

14: Set reveal.

15: Nail wall.

Step 16–Plumb and line

“Plumb and line” is the process of making the walls straight and true.

“Plumbing” is the use of a level to set the ends of the walls plumb or perfectly upright.

“Lining” is using a tight string attached to the top of a wall as a guide for straightening it.

Set nails at either end of wall as shown, and then string line tightly between them, adjusting the line so that it is about ½" above the double plate. Wall should be moved in or out to align with string.

The walls are braced with 2 × 4 lumber to hold them and, if necessary, make them plumb and straight.

If a wall already is sheathed and in place, but not plumb, correct it if it is more than ¼" out of plumb for standard height walls.

Plumbing Tools