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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
Get hooked on the art of crochet The crochet craze has taken the craft world by storm. If you've caught the bug and want to take your skills from beginner to beguiling, look no further than the friendly guidance in this bestselling guide. In Crocheting For Dummies, 3rd Edition, you'll find out how to choose the right hooks and yarns to complete your project, switch colors as you go, utilize various crochet stiches for different looks, and so much more. Online companion project videos will help readers master the concepts and techniques covered in the book. Julia Roberts and countless other celebrities are doing it--and you can, too! Taking the intimidation out of the timeless art of crocheting, this updated edition gives crafters of every skill level the knowledge and know-how to choose the right tools, create basic stitches, and finish off their work to make beautiful pieces of art. From learning to create consistency with gauge swatches to decoding patterns, symbols, and diagrams, this easy-to-follow guide is all you need to create beautiful designs in no time! * Includes fresh new patterns, stitches, and techniques * Covers common crocheting mistakes and how to correct them * Provides guidance on crocheting with eco-awareness, like working with organic yarns, tie-dye yarns, and free trade and sustainably sourced fibers * Gets you up to speed on resources and events held within the crochet community * Provides free online access to videos to teach you how to tackle various stitches and crochet in the round Whether you're a first-time crocheter or looking to expand your skillset, Crocheting For Dummies gives you everything you need to get hooked like a pro.
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Seitenzahl: 523
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2016
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Crocheting For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com
Copyright © 2017 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2016954725
ISBN 978-1-119-28711-7 (pbk); ISBN 978-1-119-28712-4 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-119-28713-1 (ebk)
Crocheting For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
To view this book's Cheat Sheet, simply go to www.dummies.com and search for “Crocheting For Dummies, 3rd Edition Cheat Sheet” in the Search box.
Table of Contents
Cover
Introduction
About This Book
Foolish Assumptions
Icons Used in This Book
Beyond the Book
Where to Go from Here
Part 1: Crochet 101
Chapter 1: Hooking into a Life of Crochet
Starting with Crochet Fundamentals
Mastering Basic Crochet Techniques
Adding New Stitches and Techniques to Your Crochet Repertoire
Finishing Your Work: Taking Pride in What You’ve Made
Making Your Crochet Experience a Good One Overall
Chapter 2: Essential Equipment
The One Tool You Can’t Do Without: A Crochet Hook
Figuring Out Yarn Features and Functions
Tool Time: Other Tools of the Trade
Chapter 3: Creating Consistency with Gauge
Understanding Why You Should Bother with Gauge
Mastering Math — The Gauge Swatch
Flying Solo: Establishing Your Own Gauge
Chapter 4: Decoding Crochet Patterns
Breaking Down the Sections of a Crochet Pattern
Figuring Out Written Instructions
Not Just a Pretty Picture: Stitch Symbols and Diagrams
Part 2: Basic Stitches and Techniques
Chapter 5: Focusing on Fundamental Stitches
In the Beginning: Preparing to Crochet
Tied Up in Stitches: The Three Basics
Foundation Stitches: The Chain and the First Row All in One
Taking Things to the Next Level: Row Two
The Anatomy of a Stitch
All’s Well That Ends Well: Fastening Off
Luxurious Washcloth Projects
Chapter 6: Expanding Your Stitch Choices
Doing a Double Crochet
Trying Your Hand at the Triple Crochet
Diving into Double Triple Crochet
Hooking a Half Double Crochet
Creating Even More Height Variation with Extended Stitches
Running on Empty: Joining a New Ball of Yarn
Circle Scarf Project
Chapter 7: Crochet, More or Less: Increasing and Decreasing Stitches
Making It Grow: Increasing Stitches
Diminishing Results: Decreasing Stitches
Simple Ripple Blanket Project
Chapter 8: I’ve Been Here Before: Crocheting in Circles
Lord of the Center Rings
Uniting Your Ring
Adding Rounds
Another Option: Spiraling Up and Up
Adding Another Dimension
Slouch Hat Project
Amigurumi Pup Project
Chapter 9: Multicolored Crochet
Bringing Designs to Life: Joining Colors
Hitching a Ride: Carrying the Yarn
Demystifying Color Codes and Charts
Crafty Math: Understanding the Fibonacci Sequence
Mod Pillow Project
Part 3: Advanced Stitches and Techniques
Chapter 10: Fancy That: Stitches That Steal the Show
Spicing Things Up with Pattern Stitches
Moving into the Third Dimension with Texture Stitches
Elegant All-Season Wrap Project
Chapter 11: Creating Texture in Unexpected Ways
Switching Up Your Stitch Placement
Working Stitches in Spaces and Other Interesting Places
When Shrinking Is A-Okay: Felting Your Crocheted Projects
Comfy Cowl Project
Gingham Baby Blanket Project
Felted Shoulder Bag Project
Chapter 12: Like Knitting with a Hook: Tunisian Crochet
Taking a Look at Tunisian Crochet Tools
Creating the Tunisian Simple Stitch
Shaping the Tunisian Simple Stitch
Varying Your Tunisian Crochet
Coloring Your Tunisian Crochet
Absorbent Hand Towel Project
Chapter 13: Filet and Mesh Crochet: Creating a New Style
Filet Crochet for Newbies
Diving into Deeper Waters: Shaping Your Filet Crochet Design
Spacin’ Out with Lacets and Bars
Making Mesh, the Simplest Lace
Butterfly Runner Project
String Market Bag Project
Chapter 14: Piecemeal: Crocheting Motifs
Granny’s a Square: Cornering Your Rounds
Don’t Be Square: Motifs of Different Shapes
Raindrop Earrings Project
Flower Power Project
Part 4: Putting It All Together
Chapter 15: Connecting the Parts: Joining Seams
Sewing Pieces Together
Crocheting Pieces Together
Granny Square Cuff Project
Chapter 16: Design 101: Crocheting Your First Sweater
Choosing Stitches and Yarn for Your Sweater
Selecting a Super Sweater Style
Sizing Up the Sweater Situation
Shell Shock Project
Chapter 17: Finishing Functionally: Borders, Buttons, and Pockets
Adding Trims: Edgings, Borders, and Collars
Holding Things Together: Buttonholes, Ties, and Drawstrings
Purely Pockets
Girl’s Versatile Camisole Project
Chapter 18: Neatness Counts: Fixing, Blocking, and Caring for Your Work
Troubleshooting Mistakes as You Crochet
Blocking Your Way into Perfect Shape
Shaping Three-Dimensional Designs with Household Items
From This Day Forward: Caring for Your Work
Part 5: The Part of Tens
Chapter 19: Ten Ways to Do Good with Crochet
Share Your Passion with a Crochet Basket
Host a Stash Swap Party for Friends
Teach Someone How to Crochet
Donate Crochet Supplies to Community Groups
Crochet for a Cause
Buy Local Yarn
Use Eco-Friendly Fibers and Natural-Colored Yarn
Crochet Green Items for Your Home
Recycle Old Fabric
Save the Planet One Crocheted Bag at a Time
Chapter 20: Ten Variations on Crochet
Irish Crochet
Free-Form Crochet
Surface Crochet
Tapestry Crochet
Broomstick Lace
Hairpin Lace
Double-Ended Crochet
Crocheting on Fabric
Bead Crochet
Wire Crochet
About the Authors
Supplemental Images
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
Guide
Cover
Table of Contents
Begin Reading
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Introduction
No longer is crocheting considered something your grandmother did while sitting on the porch in her rocking chair. Crocheted designs are everywhere, from the racks in your favorite clothing store to fashion catalogs — even to the runways in Paris and Milan. Celebrities have started crocheting, and the craft even shows up in movies and television shows. The reasons for this comeback are many, and we hope that by reading this book you discover some of those reasons and begin to enjoy a lifelong affair with crochet.
Even though crochet is a time-honored craft, that doesn’t mean it’s behind the times. Advances in technology have made yarns softer and more colorful, with wonderful new textures appearing every time you turn around. No longer are crocheters limited to solid or variegated colors; yarn is now hand painted and space dyed. Although worsted-weight yarn is still a staple in every crocheter’s yarn cache, so many varieties of weights and textures are available today that we’re at a loss as to how to categorize them all.
You’re never too old or too young to discover crochet. The skills that you master, the benefits that you receive, and the beautiful heirlooms that you create can last a lifetime and, ideally, be passed on to future generations.
About This Book
Crocheting For Dummies, 3rd Edition, gives first-time crocheters hands-on experience with new skills and serves as a reference tool for those who already have some basic crochet know-how. We kick off the book by taking you step by step through the process of gathering your materials, crocheting your first stitches, and finishing off a piece of crocheted fabric. If that sounds somewhat overwhelming, relax. We include detailed written instructions and easy-to-follow illustrations throughout this book.
Each part of Crocheting For Dummies, 3rd Edition, contains chapters full of information relevant to each other, with successive parts adding more building blocks to your crochet knowledge. If you already have some crochet experience and are looking to refine and expand your techniques, then the later chapters are for you. There, we include more advanced stitches and techniques, along with many tips to guide you. Finally, each part contains several projects that allow you to practice your newfound skills on fun and useful designs while feeling a sense of accomplishment for a job well done.
We also use the following conventions throughout the book to make the world of crochet even easier for you to dive into:
New terms appear in
italics
and are closely followed by an easy-to-understand definition.
Bold
text highlights the action parts of numbered steps.
Web addresses appear in
monofont
. (Some URLs may have broken across multiple lines as we laid out this book, but rest assured we haven’t added any spaces or hyphens. Just type in the address as you see it.)
When we first introduce a new stitch or technique, we include its abbreviation in parentheses to help you become familiar with the shorthand used in crochet patterns. We also include the abbreviation the first time a stitch is mentioned in a set of numbered steps.
In addition to the abbreviation, we include the crochet symbol whenever a new stitch is introduced.
The specific part of an illustration that relates to the step you’re working on is shaded dark gray. For example, if you’re inserting your hook into a certain stitch, that stitch is shaded so you can see exactly where to go.
Foolish Assumptions
How does that saying about assuming something go? Well, never mind about that. We explain each step as clearly and concisely as possible, so you don’t need any prior experience to understand the concepts introduced in this book.
We are assuming, however, that by picking up this book, you have a desire to master the art of crochet. Beyond that, all we ask is that you give it your best shot and don’t give up.
Icons Used in This Book
This icon highlights important points. You should remember them and apply them when dealing with the skills shown.
This icon clues you in to some tips of the trade that more experienced crocheters have discovered over time.
When you see this icon, read carefully. It marks potential pitfalls and helps you steer clear of frustrating and time-consuming mistakes.
Beyond the Book
In addition to all the great information and step-by-step instructions included in this book, you can find even more online! Head to www.dummies.com/go/crochetingfordummiesfd3e for ten free tutorial videos that show you how to tackle various stitches and crochet in the round.
You can also find a handy online Cheat Sheet with a list of international crochet symbols and stitch abbreviations, abbreviations for common crochet terms, and info on making and measuring a gauge swatch. Just head to www.dummies.com and search for this book’s title.
Where to Go from Here
Now that the introductions are over, it’s time to begin. The fun part is that where you start is entirely up to you! Crocheting For Dummies, 3rd Edition, is written so you can start reading whatever section best fits your skill level.
If you’re an absolute beginner, we suggest starting with
Part 1
. It has all the essential information that you need to begin crocheting.
If you already have some experience with the basics and want to expand your knowledge, then look ahead to the chapters on more advanced stitches and techniques. Whenever we feel that you should know something that was covered in a previous chapter, we refer you to that chapter.
If you used to crochet and are coming back to it (sometimes life just gets too busy for fun stuff like this), skim through the chapters to reacquaint yourself with the techniques. The stitches themselves haven’t changed, but the materials have, and you may come across some useful info.
Part 1
Crochet 101
IN THIS PART …
Get the lowdown on the basics of crochet.
Become familiar with the tools and materials you need to begin crocheting.
Understand the importance of gauge and how it affects everything you crochet.
Find out how to read a crochet pattern — and what all those symbols mean!
Chapter 1
Hooking into a Life of Crochet
IN THIS CHAPTER
Beginning with the basics of crochet
Surveying fundamental techniques
Expanding your selection of stitches and techniques
Wrapping up your projects and sharing tips for a lifetime of happy crocheting
Crochet has numerous beneficial qualities. Here are just a few of them:
The soothing rhythm of creating stitches can calm even the most frazzled nerves. If you’re one of those people who can’t stand to be idle, crochet is a wonderful way to let your body get a bit of rest and not feel like you’re wasting time. If your family is always clamoring for you to sit down and watch a TV show or a special movie at night, go ahead, but bring along your hook and yarn.
Crochet is also a wonderful take-along project. You can crochet on family road trips as well as on trains and planes.
According to psychological studies that have been done on the benefits of crochet, the focus needed to create something takes your mind off the bazillion little things hollering for your attention and gives your brain some much-needed downtime.
Crochet also serves as an outlet for your creativity and provides a sense of satisfaction when you complete your design and can look at it and say, “I created this myself.”
Crochet has physical benefits as well. People suffering from various forms of arthritis have used it as a form of physical therapy. The constant movement required helps keep the hands limber and the joints from stiffening up.
We hope that at least one of these reasons is enough to set you on the path to practicing this enjoyable craft. To find out more about crochet, take a look at the basics we present in this chapter.
Starting with Crochet Fundamentals
If you’re like most people these days, finding the time to figure out something new can be a challenge. With crochet, you can pick it up when you have some time, put it down when you don’t, or take it with you on the run. There’s no mess to clean up and nothing to babysit. And you can easily find hooks and yarn at your local discount or craft store as well as at the many specialty yarn stores that have cropped up in many towns. Basically, you don’t need to wait to start crocheting while you special order some obscure item.
In the following sections, we introduce you to the fundamentals of crochet: the tools you need, how to measure gauge, and how to decipher crochet patterns. These fundamentals are what you need to know to successfully start your new crochet hobby.
Gathering all your tools
One of the greatest things about crochet is that you don’t need to invest in tons of fancy materials or create a new room in your house to store a bunch of equipment. All you need to get started are a couple of hooks, preferably from different manufacturers so you can find a style you’re comfortable with, and a skein of yarn. You probably have the other stuff that you need, such as a pair of scissors, a bag to keep all your supplies in, and a comfy place to sit, at home already.
Chapter 2 gives you the skinny on the various types of hooks and yarns as well as some of the other crochet gadgets available. As with any new undertaking, understanding the basics about the materials that you’re working with is essential.
If you bought this book ten minutes ago and are already at the yarn shop, you probably just want to get a cheap hook and some yarn so you can start practicing stitches right away. Here’s what you need to get started (for less than $5):
A size H-8 U.S. (5 mm) crochet hook:
This size hook is comfortable to work with, and the size of stitch it creates is easy to see.
A light, solid-colored, worsted-weight yarn, preferably made of acrylic or wool fibers:
Acrylic and wool yarns are great for practicing with because they’re inexpensive, and light-colored yarn is best initially because you may have a hard time seeing your stitches if the yarn you’re working with is too dark or multicolored.
GIBBERISH ANYONE?
A while back, we had an experience that shows just how funny crochet instructions can look when you’re not familiar with the terminology. A young girl was leafing through a crochet magazine looking at the pictures, or so we thought. When we started paying attention to the noises she was making, we laughed so hard our sides split. The girl was reading the instructions phonetically (ch 3, dc in next sc, sc in next dc — see what we mean?). Try this with one of the patterns at the end of the chapters, and you’ll see what we mean. Crochet abbreviations really can look like a bunch of gibberish. Don’t worry, though; they’re actually pretty simple to decipher, as you find out in Chapter 4.
Adjusting tension
Making sure that your finished projects end up being the correct size is important. After all, who needs a doily the size of a coaster or an afghan that can double as a slipcover for a sectional couch?
By using some simple math and working a gauge swatch (see Chapter 3), you ensure that your stitches are the right size and tension for your design. So don’t skip over the stuff at the beginning of the pattern directions; checking your materials and gauge keeps you out of trouble.
Crocheting from a pattern
Even crocheters with years of experience work from patterns, so knowing how to read them is important. Chapter 4 tells you what the abbreviations and symbols in patterns mean and how to decipher the instructions. To ease you into the language of crochet, we provide an explanation immediately after each line of instruction, although we urge you to take a stab at reading the “normal” instructions because that’s how all crochet publications present them.
To help you get used to all the abbreviations and symbols, we include them in parentheses every time we introduce a new stitch or technique (which we fully explain in plain English, by the way). The first project patterns at the ends of the chapters either partially or completely explain the directions in plain English, but by Chapter 8 we provide the directions solely in Crochetese. (Never fear; you can always flip back to Chapter 4 if you don’t remember something.)
Mastering Basic Crochet Techniques
Aside from figuring out the basic stitches, you need to understand a few fundamental techniques: adding and subtracting stitches, changing colors, and working in a circle. All these techniques are really quite easy, and mastering them can help you create fabulous designs. We give you a brief introduction to these basic techniques, as well as the importance of practicing them, in the next sections.
Practice makes perfect
You don’t learn to walk or ride a bike in a day, so don’t expect to become a crochet pro in just 24 hours. Getting good at crochet takes practice but probably not as much as you may think. Start with the basic chain stitch (described in Chapter 5), and practice until you’re comfortable with the motions your hands must make. Then move on to another stitch. Each successive stitch, which we walk you through step by step in Chapters 5 and 6, builds on another, so try not to skip any of them, at least in the beginning. We don’t want you to get frustrated and throw your work down. Believe us, in no time at all, you’ll be moving right along.
For those of you who are visual learners, head on over to our book’s page on www.dummies.com, where you can see short videos on how to work the basic stitches.
The majority of Crocheting For Dummies, 3rd Edition, presents techniques from a right-hander’s point of view, but we don’t forget you lefties. All the information contained in this book (and there’s plenty of it!) applies to you as well. In Chapter 5, we get you started on the basics by illustrating steps from both the left- and right-handed perspectives. There, we also give you a few tips to help you work your way through the rest of the book from a left-handed perspective.
Shape up
After you have the basic stitches down, it’s time to break away from the straight lines and give your projects some curves. Check out Chapter 7 to see just how easy it is to shape your projects by adding and subtracting stitches. Don’t worry; the math is simple, and so are the techniques.
Round and round you go
Because crochet stitches are so easily manipulated, you can go where other forms of needlework can’t, such as in circles. Although the first few chapters have you going back and forth in rows, Chapter 8 throws open the door to the world of crocheting in the round. All sorts of great projects — think doilies, afghans, and sweaters — are worked in rounds. This basic variation is easy, so don’t be afraid to try the projects in this book that are worked in rounds.
Color it in
Crochet is by no means monochromatic. Yes, you’ve seen homes with white doilies scattered on every surface or the hat and scarf sets made in a single, dull color. But just wait until you walk into your local craft store or yarn shop. Your senses may just be assaulted by the multitude of colors and textures now available.
Changing colors and carrying colors are variables you can take into consideration to turn a ho-hum design into a work of art (and Chapter 9 shows you how to do just that).
Adding New Stitches and Techniques to Your Crochet Repertoire
When you’ve mastered the basics, then you’re ready to move on to even more fun stuff — new techniques and stitch combinations that add up to some creative works of art, as explained in the following sections.
Many so-called specialty stitches (see Chapter 10) are nothing more than the combination of a couple of different basic stitches, just with a new name. So don’t be intimidated if a new technique or stitch seems too complex. Broken down, it’s nothing more than the basics you already know.
Having fun with new stitches
You can do many amazing things with your crochet hook. Who says you have to work stitches in only one place? Because crochet is just a bunch of interlocking loops, you can stick your hook in myriad places to create stitches that are flat or textured, square or round — the variety is nearly endless. Chapter 11 has more on working your yarn in different spots. It also includes a fun technique called felting, which takes your project from loose and flimsy to solid and durable.
Creating funky fabrics
Two types of crochet that create unique fabrics are Tunisian crochet (see Chapter 12) and filet crochet (see Chapter 13). You work them by using very specific stitch placements and by following a chart. Both of these techniques are easy to master, and the designs you create with them make you look like you’ve been crocheting for years.
Being square (and other shapes, too)
Crochet doesn’t need to just go back and forth; you can create lots of cool shapes with your hook. The granny square is one of the most popular motifs in the crochet stitch library, but many more motifs exist in all shapes and sizes. Make just one for a decoration or join them together for a blanket, wrap, or pillow. The possibilities are endless! Head to Chapter 14 for all the details.
Finishing Your Work: Taking Pride in What You’ve Made
More goes into finishing your work than simply weaving in that last end of yarn. You may need to sew pieces together, add a pretty border, or tack on a tassel. After all that handling, often your new creations look a bit misshapen, so you need to do some blocking or shaping to pretty ’em up. And although you may not have spent a fortune on materials, we bet you probably don’t want to ruin that new sweater on the first wash. The next sections give you a preview of what all can go into finishing your masterpieces.
Putting the pieces together
Many crochet designs are composed of several pieces that you need to put together to form the whole. Chapter 15 walks you through the various methods for joining fabric, whether you sew pieces together with a yarn needle and yarn or you use your hook and crochet the separate pieces together. And because sweaters are such popular items to crochet, Chapter 16 deconstructs the specific pieces that make up a sweater.
Tending to the final details
When you’re finished crocheting, you want to make sure your piece looks its best. Does it need any special finishing touches? What about some pockets? Chapter 17 gives you the scoop on adding these and more.
You may need to block or starch (refer to Chapter 18) your work to get it into shape. Blocking is a simple process that requires water, a little heat, or some starch to help coax your design into place. Don’t leave out this step! The pattern’s instructions may not mention blocking, but if your piece looks a little off, it could probably use a little blocking to whip it into shape.
Taking care of your crochet masterpieces
Now that you have this wonderful new creation, whether it’s wearable or a home décor item, you want to take certain measures to ensure it stands the test of time. If you care for it properly (as explained in Chapter 18), you can pass down your crocheted work for generations to come.
Making Your Crochet Experience a Good One Overall
You’ll inevitably experience highs and lows while you work to master crochet. Because we want your highs to be more plentiful than your lows, we’re sharing a few tips that will help make your journey to crochet mastery a happier one:
Hold the hook and yarn the way that feels the most natural and comfortable to you.
We illustrate the most common ways in
Chapter 5
, but you may feel better using a different method.
Always read the stitch descriptions at the beginning of each pattern.
Different publications may use different names for stitches. Crochet isn’t standardized, so you may encounter names you don’t recognize. The pattern’s stitch descriptions should clear up any confusion.
Check to see whether you’re working from a British or an American pattern before you begin.
Patterns published in Great Britain and Australia, as well as some patterns published in Canada, use different terminology for even the basic stitches. For example, they call the American single crochet a
double crochet
and the American double crochet a
treble crochet.
You can end up crocheting something completely different from what you intended if you don’t know what type of terminology you’re working with. (Flip to
Chapter 4
for a list of U.S. to U.K. conversions.)
Pick a place to work where you have few distractions.
As when mastering any new skill, being able to focus is important.
Practice each new stitch or technique by working a swatch.
Crochet stitches often build on each other, so make sure you’re comfortable with one stitch before moving on to the next one. And don’t throw away your swatches — they can come in handy when you need something on which to practice making borders or buttonholes.
Put your hook and yarn down and come back later if you start to feel frustrated with a new stitch.
Sometimes a little distance can clear up a previously difficult section.
Find an experienced crocheter to help explain a new technique that you’re having a hard time with.
If you don’t know anyone who crochets, try your local yarn shop. You can usually find someone there who’s well versed in the craft and more than happy to help you.
Mark the pages of the books that you feel are most important or helpful to you.
This way you can easily find the references you’re looking for.
Chapter 2
Essential Equipment
IN THIS CHAPTER
Getting to know your new best friend — the crochet hook
Discovering the many characteristics of yarn
Understanding how to decode yarn labels
Reviewing other helpful crochet tools
As with any new project that you decide to undertake, you first have to figure out what tools and materials you need to get the job done. For crocheting, your needs are pretty simple. Grab a hook and some yarn, find a comfortable seat, and you’re ready to go.
In this chapter, we introduce you to the different types of crochet hooks and when to use them, show you your yarn options and how to choose the right one for your project, and help you read a yarn label. We also include lists of other tools that aren’t necessary all the time but can be useful when you’re crocheting different types of designs.
The One Tool You Can’t Do Without: A Crochet Hook
A crochet hook is the single most important tool you use when crocheting. The next sections tell you everything you need to know about one, including why it’s shaped the way it is, the function of each part, and the purpose of different hook materials.
Surveying the anatomy of a crochet hook
Even though you may think a crochet hook is nothing more than a straight stick with a hook on one end, it actually has five distinct and necessary parts, which you can see in Figure 2-1.
© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
FIGURE 2-1: The five parts of a crochet hook.
Each part of a crochet hook performs a specific function.
Point:
You insert the point of the hook into previously made stitches. It must be sharp enough to slide easily through the stitches yet blunt enough so that it doesn’t split the yarn or stab your finger.
Throat:
The throat does the actual hooking of the yarn and pulls it through a stitch. It must be large enough to grab the yarn size that you’re working with but small enough to prevent the previous loop from sliding off.
Shaft:
The shaft holds the loops that you’re working with, and its diameter, for the most part, determines the size of your stitches.
Thumb rest:
The thumb rest helps keep the hook positioned in the right direction. Without it, the hook can twist in the wrong direction, and you can find yourself gripping the hook too tightly — leaving you with hooker’s cramp! (You’ll know what this is as soon as you feel the pain in the palm of your hand and your fingers.) The thumb rest should be sandwiched between your thumb and middle finger when you hold the hook, letting you easily rotate the hook as you work each stitch.
Handle:
The handle is used for balance or leverage. In the under-the-hook method of holding the hook (see
Chapter 5
), the handle helps keep the hook steady and well balanced. In the over-the-hook method of holding it, the handle is held against the heel or palm of your hand and provides the leverage needed to maneuver the hook properly.
Different brands of crochet hooks have slightly different shapes. Some have sharp points, whereas others have more rounded points. Some have distinct, flat, cutout throats, whereas others have smoother, rounded throats. Nowadays, most of the standard-size and steel hooks have thumb rests, although the largest of the standard hooks don’t. (See the next section for the lowdown on the different types of hooks.) Take some time to experiment with a couple of different brands of crochet hooks to find the one that you’re most comfortable handling. You’ll be glad you did.
Looking at the make and size of hooks
Crochet hooks may come in a seemingly endless array of sizes and materials, but all of them actually fall into two main categories:
Standard hooks are typically made of aluminum or plastic (and sometimes wood); you normally use them when working with the larger sizes of yarn, such as sport weight, worsted weight, and those that are even thicker. (We describe different yarn weights later in this chapter.) Standard hooks measure about 6 inches in length and vary in thickness from 2.5 millimeters to 19 millimeters and more. Hooks as large as 25 millimeters are now readily available for working with recycled materials (see projects in Chapter 19) or the giant-sized yarn that has become popular of late.
Plastic crochet hooks can bend or break with heavy use, so we recommend using aluminum hooks for the standard sizes simply because they literally last forever — provided they don’t disappear.
Steel hooks,
which are the smallest of all crochet hooks, are used for crocheting with thread and fine yarns. They’re made of — wait for it — steel, and they measure about 5 inches in length and run from 0.75 millimeters to 3.5 millimeters wide.
In crochet, you work each stitch until only one loop remains on the hook, so you don’t need a lot of space to hold loops (for the exception to the rule, check out the Tunisian stitch in Chapter 12). Therefore, the hooks are a convenient length, unlike the needles in our sister craft — knitting.
The size of a crochet hook refers to the thickness of the hook, which in turn determines the size of the stitches it creates. The photo in Figure 2-2 gives you an idea of the size variation in hooks. You can expect to run across three different systems for marking hook sizes:
U.S. (American), which uses a letter/number combo
Continental (metric), which uses millimeters
U.K. (English), which uses numbers
© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
FIGURE 2-2: Standard and steel hooks and the range of available sizes.
For standard hooks using the U.S. or metric system, the higher the number or further the letter is in the alphabet, the larger the hook. For example, a D-3 U.S. hook is smaller than a K-10½ U.S. hook. For steel hooks, which use only a number designation, the opposite holds true. The higher the number, the smaller the hook. Fortunately, you don’t need to worry about keeping the different systems straight because hooks are usually labeled with both the U.S. letter/number designation as well as the numeric metric designation.
Table 2-1 is a conversion chart showing the most commonly used sizes of standard hooks. Table 2-2 shows the most commonly used sizes of steel hooks. (Note: Throughout this book, we refer to U.S. hook sizes as well as metric sizes.)
TABLE 2-1 Common Standard Crochet Hook Sizes
U.S. (American)
Continental (Metric)
U.K. (English)
B-1
2.25 mm
13
C-2
2.75 mm
11
D-3
3.25 mm
10
E-4
3.5 mm
9
F-5
3.75 mm
-
G-6
4 or 4.25 mm
8
7
4.5 mm
7
H-8
5 mm
6
I-9
5.5 mm
5
J-10
6 mm
4
K-10½
6.5 mm
3
TABLE 2-2 Common Steel Crochet Hook Sizes
U.S. (American)
Continental (Metric)
U.K. (English)
2
2.25 mm
1½
4
2 mm
2½
6
1.8 mm
3½
7
1.65 mm
4
8
1.5 mm
4½
9
1.4 mm
5
10
1.3 mm
5½
When shopping for crochet hooks, don’t be afraid to try out lots of different brands and sizes. Hooks are inexpensive, and having extras of the most common sizes doesn’t hurt. Even after you’ve found the style that you’re comfortable with, hang on to other hooks you’ve collected as backups. You never know when you’re going to lose your favorite hook and urgently need a replacement!
TEN HANDY HOUSEHOLD USES FOR CROCHET HOOKS
If you thought that crochet hooks were just for crocheting, guess again. Here are some additional interesting uses for them:
Pull a yarn snag to the inside of a sweater.Reweave a dropped stitch while knitting.Pull a drawstring through its casing.Fix a tangled necklace.Rescue a ring you dropped down the drain.Pull hair through the holes of the cap when highlighting your hair.Weave a potholder by using a loom.Weave anything through anything.Stake up a plant.Spear the last olive at the bottom of the jar.Figuring Out Yarn Features and Functions
First things first: Forget about that scratchy, bulky yarn your grandmother used. The variety of yarn available today is astounding, to say the least. You can find everything from the basic solid-color acrylic yarns and silky-soft wool blends to long, fringy eyelash yarn and sequined yarn. Recent years have shown an increase in more organic materials, too, such as bamboo blends and upscale cottons. In addition to going over yarn weights, styles, and materials, the following sections show you what to do with yarn packaging and labels and how to choose the right yarn for your projects.
Sizing up yarn weights
Yarn weight or size refers to the general thickness of a yarn and can range from very thin to super thick. You can describe the weight of a yarn in numerous ways, but the majority of yarn companies tend to adhere to several common weight descriptions. The following list, although not all-inclusive, outlines the most common sizes of yarn in order from the thinnest to the thickest strands (check out Figure 2-3 to see how the different weights compare visually):
Lace weight:
Lace weight yarns include
crochet thread
and tend to be very thin yarns commonly used for doilies, filet crochet, and shawls.
Fingering weight:
Also known as
sock
or
baby weight,
this thin yarn is generally used to make lightweight garments, baby items, and designs with an open and lacy pattern.
Sport weight:
This medium-weight yarn is great for many different types of patterns, including sweaters, baby blankets, scarves, and shawls.
Double Knitting (DK) weight:
Sometimes referred to as
light worsted,
this yarn is slightly thicker than sport weight and can be used in the same patterns, but the resulting fabric is somewhat heavier.
Worsted weight:
Worsted weight is probably the most commonly used size of yarn and also the most readily available. It’s great for afghans, sweaters, scarves, hats, slippers, and toys.
Chunky weight:
This yarn is sometimes referred to as
heavy worsted
or
bulky
weight. It’s thicker than worsted weight and is used for afghans, jackets, and rugs.
Super bulky weight:
This yarn is a very thick, warm yarn and is generally used to make jackets, afghans, rugs, and heavy outdoor sweaters.
© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
FIGURE 2-3: A comparison of yarn weights.
In an attempt to provide a universally accepted classification of sizes, the Craft Yarn Council of America has developed the Standard Yarn Weight System, offering yarn weight symbols that represent the categories of yarn along with their common gauge ranges and recommended hook sizes. Many yarn manufacturers include the yarn weight symbols on the label to help you find suitable yarn substitutions. Figure 2-4 shows the symbols for lace, super fine, fine, light, medium, bulky, and super bulky weights (from 0 to 6).
Source: Craft Yarn Council of America; www.YarnStandards.com
FIGURE 2-4: The Standard Yarn Weight System.
Even though the different thicknesses of yarns are named by weight, as in worsted weight or sport weight, the size (diameter) of the yarn is actually what that name is referring to. The terms size and weight are interchangeable when referring to the thickness of a yarn.
Checking out the different types of yarn
Yarns are made up of a wide variety of materials, ranging from natural fibers like wools, cottons, and silks to synthetics such as acrylic, rayon, and nylon. You can also find pretty much any combination or blend of these materials. We give you an overview of the different types of yarn in the following sections.
When choosing yarn for a project, take into consideration how you’ll use the piece. If you’re making a baby blanket, choose a yarn that can stand up to repeated washings. If you’re making a tablecloth or bedspread that’ll someday be an heirloom piece, invest in good-quality cotton that can withstand the test of time without falling apart. For a warm sweater, you can’t beat wool for durability and warmth. (Head to the later section “Matching your yarn to your project” for some additional tips on making an informed decision when picking out your yarn.)
Wool
Of all the natural fibers used to make yarn, wool is the most popular choice to work with when you’re creating a piece that you want to endure for years to come. Wool is resilient (which helps the stitches retain their shape), soft, easy to work with, and relatively lightweight. It comes in many different sizes, from fingering weight to bulky. You can crochet with wool to make everything from beautiful, warm-weather sweaters to cozy, wintertime pullovers, hats, scarves, mittens, socks, and afghans. Wool is fairly low maintenance as well, but be careful to read a particular yarn’s label for specific washing instructions.
Although most wool comes from various breeds of sheep, you can obtain luxurious wool yarns from other animals as well. Fuzzy mohair and cashmere come from goats, and delicate, fluffy, Angora yarn comes from the Angora rabbit.
If you’re allergic to wool, don’t despair. Look for a synthetic instead. Many new synthetics mimic the real stuff so well that if you don’t spill your secret, no one will know.
Silk
Spun from the cocoon of the silkworm, silk yarn has a smooth, often shiny finish. It’s lightweight and absorbent, making it a perfect choice for warm-weather garments. Silk is often combined with cotton or wool to increase its elasticity and durability.
Cotton
Once used mainly to make doilies, bedspreads, and tablecloths, cotton has become a versatile yarn. It comes in a wide range of sizes, from very fine threads to worsted-weight yarn. Garments made from cotton yarn are washable, durable, and have that great cotton comfort. Cotton yarn is also a good choice for home décor items such as place mats, potholders, and curtains.
Synthetics
Synthetic yarn is produced from man-made fibers such as acrylic, rayon, nylon, and polyester. Designed to look like the natural-fiber yarns, synthetic yarns are readily available in a wide range of sizes, colors, and textures and are generally less expensive than their natural counterparts. These yarns, especially those made from acrylic, are good for afghans and baby blankets because they require little care. (However, you should still be sure to check the label for washing instructions.) Synthetic yarns are quite often used in combination with natural fibers, which gives you even more new textures, colors, and qualities of yarn to crochet with.
Novelty yarns
Novelty yarns are fun and funky and make your pieces interesting without requiring complicated stitch patterns. From soft, fringy eyelash yarn and velvety chenille to bumpy bouclé, glittering metallics, and slinky ribbon, these yarns can add a fresh, fashionable look to any piece you create.
Organic yarns, fair trade fibers, and sustainably sourced fibers
Ecologically friendly yarns are a growing trend in the yarn world as crafters work to lessen their hobbies’ impact on the environment. Among the yarns found in this category are organic, fair trade, and sustainably sourced yarns. Organic yarns come from companies that make their products without the use of man-made chemicals, so plants and animals are raised without synthetic pesticides or fertilizer. Fair trade fibers come from companies who work to improve labor conditions for their farmers and workers. Sustainably sourced yarns have been produced with minimal impact on the earth, meaning the fiber is cultivated without excess waste of or damage to the earth’s resources.
Some major yarn brands and local yarn shops have added eco-friendly yarns to their line, but these still tend to be more expensive than other yarns. However, as more crafters support those brands that make a conscious effort to produce earth-friendly fibers, the more abundant and cheaper those fibers will become.
Other materials
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can crochet with any material that resembles a string. Throw caution to the wind and use fine, colored wire and hemp to crochet cool jewelry, nylon cord to whip up waterproof bags and outdoor seat cushions, and even embroidery floss and sewing thread to create appliqués and accents. Check out Chapter 19 for ideas on how to crochet with cut-up strips of fabric or plastic grocery bags (gives a whole new meaning to “reduce, reuse, recycle,” huh?).
Sorting out yarn packaging
Yarn is commonly packaged (or put up) in three different ways: as a skein, a ball, or a hank. You can crochet with balls and skeins of yarn as you buy them. Hanks, however, require a bit of preparation.
Ball:
If your ball of yarn is wound around a cardboard center, just grab the end on the outside of the ball, and you’re ready to go. If the ball has an open center, your best bet is to find the end of the yarn from inside the ball. Using the inside end keeps the ball from rolling around the floor or becoming a new toy for your cat.
Skein:
The most common form of packaging, a
skein
is an oblong, machine-wound bundle of yarn. You start crocheting with the inside end. Sometimes it’s already pulled to the outside for you. In that case, just give it a tug, and it’ll pull out smoothly and evenly. If the yarn end isn’t visible at either end of the skein, reach into the small indentation on either end of the skein and pull out a few strands; you’ll find the end buried inside there. Sometimes the label has an arrow pointing to the correct end of the skein to pull from, but more often than not, you have to guess. If the first end doesn’t work, try the other end; it has to be in there somewhere! Working from the inside of the skein keeps the yarn tangle free.
Hank:
A
hank
is a large circle of yarn twisted into a figure-eight shape. Trying to work from a hank soon results in a tangled mess and plenty of frustration, so you need to first wind it into a ball. Unfold and then untwist the hank so that it’s a circle of yarn. Place the large circle of yarn over a chair back or your knees, or have someone hold it with outstretched arms. Find the outside end of the yarn and
loosely
wind it into a ball.
To wind a ball of yarn the inexpensive way, start by laying the outside end of the hank across three or four of your fingers. With the other hand, wrap the yarn loosely around those fingers about 20 times. Remove the wrapped yarn all at once, rotate it 90 degrees, and lay it across the same three or four fingers of your hand. Wrap the yarn loosely around those fingers about 20 times. Remove the yarn from your hand, pinching it to keep it from unraveling, and rotate it 90 degrees. Continue to lay the yarn across your hand, wrap about 20 times (more or less is fine), remove, and rotate. As you go, you’ll notice that the yarn begins to form a ball. After you make a ball, continue to wrap in one direction several times; then rotate the ball and continue wrapping until all the yarn is in ball form.
Winding a ball too tightly can stretch your yarn, and you definitely don’t want that. Stretched-out yarn may spring back into shape when your work is finished, and you may have to hand down your size-12 sweater to your size-10 daughter.
Deciphering yarn labels
Yarn labels contain a lot of valuable information that you need to take note of to make sure your project turns out right. Check out the label in Figure 2-5 and the following list for the lowdown on label info.
© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
FIGURE 2-5: Identifying key information on a yarn label.
Yarn labels include most, if not all, of the following information:
Article number (1):
Some manufacturers assign a number to each different type of yarn they produce for identification purposes. This number comes in handy when you’re ordering yarn directly from the manufacturer or another mail-order source.
Brand name (2):
A yarn company may manufacture several different types or
brands
of yarn.
Care instructions (3): As with any item that needs to be cleaned, yarn has specific care instructions. Some yarns require little care; you simply throw them in the washer and dryer. Other yarns need some TLC and should be handwashed and laid flat to dry. Still others should be sent to the dry cleaner. Be sure that the care instructions will work well for your finished work, or else your creation may end up on the top shelf of the closet! Many manufacturers use the International Fabric Care Symbols shown here. For more information on these symbols, see Chapter 18.
If you mix more than one type of yarn in a project, the care requirements should be similar. Otherwise you may end up with a stretched (or shrunken) section after you launder your piece the first time.
Color name and number (4):
Yarn colors are identified in two different ways: by name and/or number.
Company name and logo (5):
This is the name of the company that manufactures the yarn. Sometimes contact information, such as address, telephone number, and website, is included as well.
Dye lot number (6): The dye lot number identifies yarns that are dyed in the same batch. Although companies strive to match the colors as closely as possible, slight variations exist from lot to lot. Even if skeins of different dye lots look the same when you hold them together, you may end up with a distinct color difference in your finished project.
To ensure an even color throughout your work, buy enough yarn from the same dye lot to complete your entire project. If you have to go back and buy more at a later date, chances are you won’t be able to find yarn from the same dye lot.
If you do end up with skeins of the same color but different dye lots, here’s a trick to make the color variation less noticeable. If you have equal numbers of skeins in each dye lot, crochet two rows with a skein of one dye lot, and then crochet the next two rows with a skein from the second dye lot. Continue to switch skeins of each dye lot after every two rows to end up with a subtle striped pattern. If you have only one skein that has a different dye lot than the remaining skeins, you can still do the same thing, but you’ll want to work in the odd dye lot less frequently depending on how many skeins you have to work with.
Gauge (7):
Gauge is a measurement that helps you keep your crochet stitches consistent. It’s the number of stitches and rows in a given measurement that you should get with a particular yarn by using the recommended hook size for that yarn. If the label only gives a knitting gauge, you can use this gauge as a guide because crochet hook sizes correspond to knitting needle sizes. Flip to
Chapter 3
for more on gauge.
Manufacturer’s address (8):
Sometimes the manufacturer’s address is listed separately from the name, and it can come in handy if you have questions about the yarn or are having trouble locating a retail store that sells the product.
Ply (9):
Ply
refers to the number of smaller strands twisted together to form the larger single strand of yarn. This number can be deceptive, though, because a fine yarn can be a 3- or 4-ply yarn, whereas a bulky yarn can be just 2 ply. Worsted-weight yarns are generally 4 ply, but some cotton yarns can be made up of 8 or more strands. The ply may be included on the label along with the size or weight of the yarn; for example, 4-ply worsted-weight yarn or 2-ply bulky-weight yarn.
Recommended hook size (10):
Sometimes the label suggests a certain hook size so you can work to the proper gauge for a specific yarn size. The recommended hook size is a good place to start, although you may find that you need to use a smaller- or larger-size hook, depending on how you work your stitches and how loose you want them to be. You can achieve a lacy texture by using a much larger hook than recommended. On the other hand, if you want a tight, stiff fabric (like for a tapestry bag), you should use a smaller hook than the one the label calls for.
Weight (11):
This number reflects the actual weight of the whole skein, ball, or hank of yarn, as opposed to the weight (size) of the yarn strand. The weight is usually quoted in ounces and/or grams.
Yardage (12):
The yardage is the length of the yarn (in yards or meters) that’s in the ball or skein. This information is important because you don’t want to get partway through your project and then realize that you don’t have enough yarn.
Yarn content (13):
Yarn content is the stuff your yarn is made of — wool or acrylic, cotton or silk, a blend of two or more fibers, or one of the many other fibers available.
Matching your yarn to your project
When selecting yarn, you must always take your project’s design, pattern, color, and texture into consideration. Certain patterns work better with simple yarns and solid colors; others can showcase more exotic yarns. The following sections offer advice for properly matching your yarn to your project.
