Dahomey as it was E-Book

J. Alfred Skertchly

• Herausgeber: Jazzybee Verlag
• Kategorie: Geisteswissenschaft
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 814

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2022

Beschreibung

Mr. Skertchly left England in 1871 for the purpose of making zoological collections on the West Coast of Africa. On his arrival at Whydah, he was induced to go up to Abomey, the capital of Dahomey, for the purpose of instructing the king, Gelele", in the use of some guns that had arrived, on the promise that he would be back at Whydah in eight days. The king, however, detained Mr. Skertchly as an unwilling guest for eight months, treating him with the greatest consideration and kindness, and creating him a prince of the country. The greater part of Mr. Skertchly's work is occupied with a description of the protracted annual " customs," as they are called, of Dahomey, which consist of elaborate and harmless trivial ceremonies, mixed up with much that is revolting and cruel ; the details of these Mr. Skertchly describes in minute detail. He has evidently a considerable admiration both for the Dahomans and Ashantees, especially for the former, whom he considers not nearly so cruel as the latter, though both equally brave and remarkably well- disciplined as soldiers. He defends the Dahomans from the charge of intentional cruelty in the barbarously performed human sacrifices which form so important a part of their customs, and we think he succeeds ; the victims, who are all either criminals, or prisoners of war, are sent as messengers to deceased kings.

Leseprobe

Dahomey as it was

J. ALFRED SKERTCHLY

Dahomey as it was, J. Alfred Skertchly

Jazzybee Verlag Jürgen Beck

86450 Altenmünster, Loschberg 9

Deutschland

ISBN: 9783849662851

www.jazzybee-verlag.de

[email protected]

CONTENTS:

PREFACE1

CHAPTER I. ARRIVAL IN DAHOMEY.3

CHAPTER II.  AN EXCURSION NEAR WHYDAH.19

CHAPTER III. THE WHYDAH LIONS.28

CHAPTER IV. JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL51

CHAPTER V. JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL (Continued).69

CHAPTER VI. RECEPTION AT KANA.86

CHAPTER VII. JOURNEY TO ABOMEY.107

CHAPTER VIII. THE AMAZONIAN SALUTE.118

CHAPTER IX. THE SO-SIN CUSTOM.129

CHAPTER X. THE SO-SIN CUSTOM — (continued).152

CHAPTER XI. THE SO-SIN CUSTOM –– (continued).169

CHAPTER XII. THE BUSH KING'S SO-SIN CUSTOM.193

CHAPTER XIII. PRESENTATION AT COURT.214

CHAPTER XIV. JOURNEY TO THE KONG MOUNTAINS.219

CHAPTER XV. THE ATTOH CUSTOM.241

CHAPTER XVI. THE ATTOH CUSTOM –– (continued).254

CHAPTER XVII. THE WELCOME FROM THE KING.263

CHAPTER XVIII. THE BUSH-KING'S ATTOH CUSTOM266

CHAPTER XIX. THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM.272

CHAPTER XX. THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM-(continued).285

CHAPTER XXI. THE ANLIN CUSTOM AND THE PAYMENT OF THE TRIBUTE.293

CHAPTER XXII. THE AZAN-GBEH –– THE GUN CUSTOM298

CHAPTER XXIII. THE FINAL LEVEE.306

CHAPTER XXIV. THE DAHOMAN CONSTITUTION.313

CHAPTER XXV. THE AMAZONS.320

CHAPTER XXVI. THE DAHOMAN RELIGION.324

CHAPTER XXVII. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS.339

CHAPTER XXVIII. CONCLUSION.357

APPENDIX. THE ASHANTEES.360

PREFACE

In the early part of 1871 I left England with the object of making zoological collections on the West Coast of Africa. My first station was at Assinee, and from thence I went to Cape Coast Castle and Accra, calling at all the intermediate towns. At Assinee I was prevented from penetrating far into the interior by reason of the hostility of the Ashantees, and palavers with the neighbouring petty kings. At Accra, again, the Krobo people were up in arms, so that the splendid collecting ground of Aquipim was closed against me. I therefore determined to proceed to Whydah and work up the fauna of that district, intending afterwards to return to Aquipim as soon as an opportunity presented itself.

In consequence of my detention by the King of Dahomey, however, I was unable to follow up my design, but was condemned to be the recipient of savage honours and to sit an unwilling spectator of the notorious Annual Customs of the country; my feelings being grievously harassed by the thought that I had discovered one of the richest localities in Western Africa, while the polite imprisonment, as it were, to which I was subjected, entirely precluded my making any collection save the meagre one to be obtained in the spacious courtyards of my residence.

Hence my entomological labours resulted in almost nil, in spite of repeated and earnest solicitations to Gelele for permission to collect in the environs of Abomey at least. I endeavoured to console myself with the thought that I should be able to get a thorough knowledge of the Dahoman people, but I would much rather have remained ignorant of the Ffons and have added a trifle to zoological knowledge than have been enabled to produce this volume.

When I arrived at Whydah, I had not the remotest intention of visiting the king, since I was well aware that the interior of the country was so effectually "tabooed "to Europeans, that many persons had passed half their lives on the coast and had never had an opportunity of making a journey into the interior other than in the immediate precincts of the town in which they resided.

It appears, however, that some guns had been landed for the king, and Quinun was informed that I was competent to instruct him in their usage.

With that sycophancy, so highly developed in all savages when they imagine they can obtain any benefit from its practice, he sent an extensive escort to conduct me from the beach to Whydah, and on my arrival assured me that if I would instruct him in the use of the guns, and would go up to the capital and explain them to the king, I should be well treated and be back again at Whydah in eight days.

The first part of his promise was more than fulfilled, for I never experienced greater hospitality at the hands of any man, civilised or savage, than I did from Gelele; but with regard to the second, the eight days were prolonged to eight months.

Beguiled by this offer to explore a comparatively defend themselves, whereas the negro (?) Ashantees are brave, determined enemies.

It is to be hoped that at the conclusion of the campaign the eyes of our countrymen will be opened to the fallacy of attempting to make "silk purses from sows’ ears."

In conclusion, I would tender my very hearty thanks for the hospitable receptions I everywhere met with from the European residents on the West Coast, trusting to have the pleasure of again meeting them ere long.

J. A. S.

London, January, 1874.

CHAPTER I. ARRIVAL IN DAHOMEY.

Six o’clock on the morning of Wednesday, July 19th, 1871, found the little brig Bryn-y-mor slowly creeping along abreast of that clump of cotton-trees, so well-known to traders frequenting the "Bights," which is somewhat erroneously called Mount Pulloy.

The horizon was still clouded with the haze that ever accompanies the land breeze, and borne on its gentle breath came the earthy, mildewy smell of the decomposing vegetable matter in the lagoons which run parallel to the coast for miles; while the hollow roar of the surf beating with relentless fury upon the sandy shore warned us that we should in all probability be detained on board for that day at least.

As the sun rose higher in the heavens, and by his genial beams dispersed the mists, we discovered the same flat, monotonous coast which had wearied us for days past since leaving Accra. A long, unchanging line of olive green, broken here and there by a solitary palm or cotton-tree rising above the general level and occasionally relieved by a rift, destitute of vegetation, was all that could be seen from the offing; though, as we occasionally drew nearer the shore, a long strip of bright yellow sand seemed to rise out of the bosom of the dark grey sea, while a sudden streak of gleaming, dazzling white foam, and a dull, hollow booming sound marked out the place of rupture of some huge billow.

As we gently sailed along, favoured by the current, Captain Williams was on the alert to catch the first glimpse of the shipping in Whydah roads, the great Liverpool of the notorious Kingdom of Dahomey, where we expected to anchor about ten o’clock.

As the morning drew on, the land-breeze, ever fickle, gradually died away, and we fully expected to be obliged to let go our anchor ere arriving at our destination; hence we anxiously took cross bearings of the more conspicuous trees on the beach to ascertain if we were moving east or west. At length the white gable of Messrs. Swanzy’s office on the beach, rising as it were out of nothing, induced us to hold on a little longer in hopes of being able to "fetch " our anchorage.

Nor were we doomed to disappointment; for the breeze freshened a little and our sails again bellied out, while the moving landscape on our beam and the arrow-headed ripple from our bows showed us that we were still going ahead.

The factories and oil sheds on Whydah beach now appeared, and two or three patches of fog, somewhat darker than the rest, which had attracted our attention for some time, now resolved themselves into a number of ships, lying, or rather rolling, at anchor.

Up went our ensign and house-flag, and our glasses were at once put in requisition to pick out the "Astarte," our consort, under whose stern we intended to bring up.

Soon we were off the old slave barracoons, about two miles to the westward of Whydah, once kept under constant surveillance bv Her Majesty’s cruisers, but now transformed into powder stores for a French house.

At length the "Astarte’s" taut masts and man-o’-war-looking yards were descried, and soon her white house flag fluttered to the truck followed by her ensign, which was immediately dipped in welcoming recognition of our vessel.

Scarcely had our cable rattled out at the hawse hole, than the fitful breeze died away, and the signal "Send for your letters," hoisted at our peak, hung listless and drooping.

A surf-boat, called here a "canoe," soon came alongside, and the "bo’s’n," after the usual "Mornin’, cap’n," told us that the "sea too full "for us to go ashore; and the dripping condition of himself and his men fully testified that the sea was at any rate "full enough " to run over him and his canoe.

After writing our letters, and giving the bo’s’n and his noisy crew a "dash" or present of rum, they took their departure, and we anxiously watched their passage through the surf.

As they neared the first or outer line of breakers, they alternately appeared and disappeared, as they were carried up and down on the heavy swell. At length we missed them, and a row of darkies running along the beach and making frantic gestures with their arms, showed us that the canoe was going in through the surf. "We soon had the pleasure of seeing the paddles thrown on to the beach, as the boat, carried along by the inner breaker, was borne high up on the sloping beach.

For the following eight days we were detained on board in consequence of the heavy surf on the beach, which effectually "tabooed" our landing. The weather was cold, wet, and cheerless in the extreme, reminding one of a London November more than an African July. The ship appeared to have discovered the secret of perpetual motion, for she pitched and rolled, curvetted and "bucked," until we expected her to try a revolution on her own axis as a finale to her terpsichorean exploits.

Every morning we saw to our disgust the ensign flying on Messrs. Swanzy’s office, which was the signal for a bad surf unsafe for landing. Leaving us endeavouring to drive away ennui by fruitless attempts at dredging and fishing, I will attempt a description of the beach town of Whydah, as viewed from the shipping.

A long ridge of sand, capped with a straggling line of buildings, with only a few trees to relieve the monotony, is not a very imposing picture to present of the principal port of a kingdom.

At the eastern end is the whitewashed iron clerks’ office of Messrs. Swanzy’s house, backed up by the brown thatched roofs of the storehouses, and a flagstaff in rear. Between this and the next factory is another flagstaff, whose topmast slopes at a considerable angle from the perpendicular, and at the foot a mob of salt gatherers are pursuing their vocation. A few more thatched sheds succeed, and then our eye rests upon a spot where there is at least some attempt at the picturesque. It is the office of one of the French houses with a red-tiled roof, the front yard surrounded by a whitewashed wall, and the gate hung from blackened posts. Within the yard are several palm-trees, whose feathery heads of vivid green form an agreeable contrast to the dingy brown roofs of the stores, and high over all floats the gaudy tricolor. We might have guessed at the nationality without the aid of the flag, for go where you will, no sooner does the Frenchman set his foot in a country, than he surrounds himself with evidences of his taste for the beautiful, either by planting trees round his house or store, by the cultivation of a garden, or in the general arrangement of his dwelling, betokening an ever present idea of something beyond the mere necessaries of the case, that shall testify to the owner’s appreciation of the accessories of civilization. Compare it with the dwelling of an Englishman— substantial, comfortable, adapted to all the exigences of trade it always is; but when once a shelter for himself and goods is erected, how seldom does he ever attempt anything beyond.

Brown-roofed stores again succeed this oasis, some breaking the sameness by presenting their gables to the sea. The whole line extends about three quarters of a mile along the beach, and a more desolate, wretched-looking place can scarcely be imagined. Even seen in bright sunshine it is dreary, hut when viewed through drizzling rain, against a background of leaden-coloured sky, the prospect is cheerless in the extreme.

At length the weather changed and we prepared to land. Captain Williams and I took our places in the bow of the boat sent alongside, and we were soon on our way to the beach. The canoe-men kept stroke by singing extempore songs, often at the expense of the passengers, occasionally breaking the monotony by a hissing through their teeth "a la stablemen," as they dipped their paddles into the water. Sometimes a canoe-man, anxious to show his prowess, would catch up some of the water on the blade of his paddle, and send it far astern by a stroke of his vigorous arm.

On nearing the outer breaker the swell visibly increased, and hill and dale of greenish water rapidly succeeded each other. The bo’s’n, who steered, stood up in the stern sheets, and with anxious eye watched each roller as it came on, the boat being kept stationary by back strokes of the paddles, thus allowing each swell to run under us. After a little delay, his experienced eye detected a roller somewhat less formidable than the rest, and we prepared to go in upon it. As we rose upon its back the canoe was urged forward by vigorous strokes, and the canoe-men were kept up to their work by the excited shouts of the bo’s’n, who, with his long steering-oar, kept the boat end on. Soon the roller, now piled up into an almost vertical wall of water, begins to curl its briny head. Now is the exciting time; if not far enough on the roller we shall be deluged by the succeeding one, and if too far on this, we shall be tossed about like a cork on its foamy fragments; or, if lucky enough to escape a capsize, we are sure of a thorough wetting, and its inevitable consequence in this climate — an attack of fever.

The watery hill upon whose back we rode seemed suddenly to shine out first into violet, then into green, and finally into snowy white foam, as it tumbled over with maddening fury. With a crash and roar deafening us for an instant, we found ourselves precipitated as it were from its summit, and for an instant scarcely knew whether we were on or under the foam, which, seething like a boiling cauldron, leapt over the sides of the boat as if eager to secure its prey. Fate, however, was propitious, and although we were hurried along by an avalanche of hissing water, our trusty bo’s’n, amidst shouts and frantic gestures to his sable crew, managed to keep our boat more or less stern on.

This outer breaker owes its formidable size to a bar of sand which extends parallel to the beach, and shifts its position from time to time. In fine weather it acts as a breakwater, but when the surf is heavy it causes an immense breaker to accumulate upon it.

Within the outer line of surf is a lane of comparatively still water, across which the spent breakers continually send moving terraces of seething water; the detritus, as it were, of the aqueous escarpment of the open sea. Along this lane boats can paddle without risk of capsizing; but should the unfortunate boatman be overturned in passing over the outer wall of surf, he has to run the gauntlet between turbulent billows on the one hand, and voracious sharks on the other. These latter monsters instinctively cruise up and down within the outer breaker; and oftentimes a death yell, heard clearly above the roar of the surf, is the requiem of an ill-starred canoe-man, who, despite the charms he carried in his hair, has been snapped up by one of these tigers of the deep.

In the slave-trading times the sharks were well fed. The boats were crowded with the unfortunate captives heavily manacled and capsizes were frequent. The slaves being unable to swim, loaded as they were, became an easy prey, for the boatmen never attempted a rescue, but returned at once to the beach for a fresh cargo. So daring did the sharks become that they would frequently, as they do occasionally even now, bite off pieces of the paddles, and swim in the boat’s wake, looking out with their small, green, blood-thirsty eyes, for a meal of human flesh.

After crossing this belt of death, we had to surmount two other breakers, and looking out for a "smooth," were borne along at railway speed by the rushing downpour of the innermost one. As we passed through it, we stood up in the boat ready to jump into the arms of the beachmen who crowded down to assist us to land.

With a shock, as if every timber in the boat were broken, the bow struck the sand; the beachmen seized and carried us beyond the reach of the succeeding wave, which tossed the lightened boat several feet higher up the steep beach, to the imminent peril of the legs of the canoe-men, and at last we found ourselves safe, and comparatively dry, in the kingdom of Dahomey.

The prospect on landing is not more inviting than when seen from the offing. The beach is a mere bank of sand, about twenty feet high, and -where not saturated by the water, is so loose that we sink over our boots at every step. A walk of a few miles on such a road would knock up any European. The summit is covered with various salsolaceous plants, with flowers of pink and yellow dotted here and there, and a few stunted bushes are scattered at intervals.

The beach-town consists almost exclusively of the storehouses of the various merchants, and the dwelling-houses of the king’s custom-house officers and fishermen. No white man is permitted to sleep on the beach, except upon very special occasions, their property being committed to the charge of the king’s people for the night.

The king’s agent, Quinun, had sent down an escort for me for several days past, but as the sea still continued high they had concluded that I would not land on that day, and had gone back to the upper town. As walking was out of the question, I impressed a dozen men to carry my luggage, and, mounting on the shoulders of two of the strongest, proceeded in that dignified position to Whydah, much after the fashion of Sindbad the Sailor.

A walk of a few hundred yards over loose sand brought us to the level of the lagoon, at this time of the year about 500 yards wide from dry land to dry land, hut on the coast side for nearly 200 yards the water is only a few inches deep, with a bottom of slimy black mud. On passing this marsh the water suddenly deepens to about three feet, although in the dry season it exceeds seven, as it derives its waters from the reedy lakes about Porto Seguro, which extend northwards, and are fed by the rains which fall there after they have ceased near Whydah. Numerous low aits, haunted by numbers of alligators, and covered with tall reeds, are dotted here and there. The lagoon abounds in fish and oysters, the empty shells of which are seen heaped up on every side preparatory to their being burnt to procure lime for whitewash. Salt is collected, but is too dirty for European use, although considerable quantities are carried into the interior.

To the east a large war-gate extended across the lagoon, leaving only a narrow passage about four feet wide in the centre. It was constructed of poles stuck into the bottom and latticed together with bamboo. Every boat passing through this gate has to pay a bottle of rum as toll. The central passage is closed after sundown by a bar and lock of native workmanship.

My passage across the deepest part of the lagoon was made on the head of a stalwart fellow, whilst four others held my legs above the water so that I reclined as it were on the heads and arms of the waders. No enviable position — for the least slip on the slimy bottom, and we should all have had a bath in its Stygian waters.

Arrived at the north side of the lagoon we passed by the custom house or Denun, which is situated at the gates of every important town in the country. This one is known as Ge-sin-nun, i.e. salt-waterside mouth or gate. It is a dirty hovel of bamboos and mats thatched with grass and surrounded with the debris of the meals of many a day past. A motley group of porters, fishermen, salt -gatherers, and idlers of both sexes were lying in every possible attitude of laziness, the women having, exposed for sale, pinches of salt, eatables, or firewood. All were talking and passing remarks in what Captain Burton very happily terms "Billingsgate." Conspicuous among this wretched-looking throng by reason of his extra coating of dirt was the king’s toll collector. The duties of this officer are to collect toll from boats passing along the lagoon, and upon goods on transit to the beach. He has also to examine the "passports" of all strangers leaving "Whydah, to see if any more are leaving than are denoted by the permit, which generally consists of a stick with a notch on it for every person. It is carried by one man, and another hears a corresponding number of stones tied up in a rag.

Although the lagoon swarms with alligators above and below the ferry, they appear to shun what would appear to be their best hunting-ground, for accidents are comparatively unfrequent. Across the narrow path beyond Ge-sin-nun, a kind of arch of bamboo was erected, from the centre of which an unfortunate cock was dangling and shedding perfume on the breeze. This, with a hunch or two of feathers, is fetish to detect the passing under of any evil person who may have a design against the Government. Beyond this hamlet, a low swampy district extends for about two miles, the road being kept clear of the grass and reeds which, taller than ourselves, shut in the view on either side. The oozy soil, a black alluvium, exhaled a foetid odour as it was stirred up by the feet of the men. Numerous black and white spotted kingfishers were poising themselves over the patches of water, occasionally dropping like stones on to some fish or batrachian, but not always with a successful issue, for I noticed one miss its aim three times in succession.

On an oasis in this swamp the half-way village of Zumbogi is situated, consisting of about a hundred huts, each with its protecting devil or saint, whichever be the more appropriate title. In the centre of the hamlet, in an open space, is a shed with a conical roof of thatch. Under this primitive shelter is a fetish-god, made of red clay or swish, as it is called on the Gold Coast, fashioned into something like a squat human figure with a huge gaping mouth, having cowries stuck in for teeth, and necklaces of the Sayan, a shrub whose efficacy is marvellous, — if we are to believe the priests. A leaf or two strung round the neck will ensure the lucky wearer from execution, and if fixed to a gun will prevent its bursting. It is generally called by Europeans "Thunder bush," as it is extensively used in the ceremonials attendant upon the worship of Khevyosoh, the thunder god. The image is a woman’s fetish, and if she is childless, she smears it with palm oil and ground maize mingled with the blood of a fowl. A small quantity is placed in a little earthen saucer set before the image for the akrasu, or vulture, supposed to he the familiar of all the deities. This offering is a certain cure for barrenness; and I suppose the woman has twins the next day.

The head fetish priest came out and saluted by snapping fingers with us three times, after which, he filliped his little fingers and thumbs together a like number of times. He was accompanied by his kwe-ho-sonu, or umbrella hearer. The possession of this article always denotes rank in Dahomey, and many are very splendid affairs, though the present one was a shabby structure of blue baft and white cotton, with plenty of holes about it, no doubt to assist the ventilation. This tent in miniature was brought out, and we were honoured with a seat on a wooden stool, much resembling those in vogue on the Gold Coast, but higher. His wives then brought water "to cool our hearts," after which rum and liqueurs, of most villainous decoction, and palm wine, were handed about.

It is the custom for the host to taste of everything in the presence of his guest, before offering it to him, as a guarantee that there is no poison in the food. The guest, if a white man, is only expected to touch the liquid with his lips, after which he passes it to one of his servants, who, nothing loth, swills it off at a single gulp, always on bended knees. Right glad was I to avail myself of this custom and may he be held up to everlasting infamy who decrees its abolition. The priest was suffering from a violent influenza, and had the vilest set of teeth I ever saw, which, coupled with the fact of his chewing tobacco, rendered the flavour of his lips anything hut a savoury addition.

After a tedious adieu, which consisted in my receiving a blessing from the priest and more snapping of fingers, I proceeded on my way. Scarcely was I out of the presence of this religious functionary than one of his servants came up and asked me if I would give his master a "dash." I peremptorily declined, resolving to commence to undermine this universal practice of levying blackmail upon every traveller, by a refusal from the beginning. Would that I had been able to carry out my purpose to the end!

Beyond Zumbogi there is another swamp similar to that already described, but the reeds are interspersed with clumps of bracken and fern that reminded me very forcibly of some I had seen growing in the parks in far-off England.

A mile of this unwholesome fever-breeding flat brings us to the end of the swamp, and we emerge on to a sandy tract, the sides of which are hedged in with bushes covered with many-hued flowers. After about a mile we enter the celebrated district of Gongi, and soon arrive at a dwarf ficus known to all traders as the "Captain’s Tree," where the ceremony of "entering" a ship is performed.

Whydah, as seen from the Captain’s Tree, is a picturesque town, the various factories peeping through the trees, some with red-tiled roofs, pleasantly relieving the sombre green of the cotton trees. The district around is under cultivation, the crops being chiefly yams and maize, each field being divided from its neighbours by a narrow footpath, not unfrequently edged with prickly pears, and none without its fetish pot to ensure a prolific crop. Truly famine should be unknown in a land where every field is under the especial protection of a deity!

The promise of a pretty town, however, is by no means realised on a nearer approach. The road, twenty feet wide at the tree, gradually narrows and slopes towards the town. Soon travelling becomes difficult as the surface becomes worn into deep ruts by the rains, and my carriers twist and turn in all directions to select the levellest spots. Close to the town the road is a mere ditch, the banks of which are strewn with maize stalks, rotten fruit, and filth of all descriptions; amidst which pigs, fowls, and children revel unmolested. This is the main entrance to Whydah and leads to the Ajudo akhimen or Ajudo market. Here crowds of women were squatting on small square stools of bamboo, made by placing short pieces of the stalk alternately one over the other, and fastening the corners with a peg. These ladies were protected from the sun by a light thatch, much resembling an English stall, under which they displayed their various wares for sale.

All were shouting and vociferating at the top of their voices the praises of their goods, while scores of naked urchins kept running round us to look at the "new white man."

Opposite the market is the old Brazilian fort, now used as a dwelling-house by one of the De Souza family, while to the right is a kraal containing a herd of oxen belonging to that personage. On the left stands the whitewashed factory of Messrs. F. & A. Swanzy, within whose hospitable walls we were soon comfortably installed under the care of Mr. C. Courtenay, agent, pro tem, for Mr. Lyall, then absent in England.

The view from the windows of the factory extends over the district of Gongi, rendered memorable in the history of Dahomey; for it was here that in Agajah’s reign, so many battles were fought between the Dahomans and the old Whydahs. A few plantations of yams are visible, but for the most part nothing but a waving sea of grass is to be seen, among whose stems deadly malaria lurks, armed with fever and dysentery, ready to pounce on its victim. To the left a thicket of oil palms, in the distance, enshrouds the country seat of Antonio De Souza, while a similar clump shuts in the view on the right. The masts of the shipping rolling at anchor are visible above the trees round Zumbogi, of which nothing can be seen save a faint blue curl of smoke from the wood fires, while the hollow roar of the surf is ever present, as though singing a funeral dirge over the fallen glories of old Whydah.

After a bath, here not a luxury, but a necessity, if health is a consideration, dinner was served up, and we had scarcely concluded our repast ere a messenger arrived from Quinun, the king’s agent, to say that he wished to see me. Mr. Courtenay and I went to his house, a few yards distant, and immediately adjoining Messrs. Swanzy’s premises.

Opposite the gate was a shed, beneath which were clay models of an alligator, a leopard, a man and a bird, all objects of worship to Quinun, and no doubt contributing largely to his success. The man was daubed with red clay and blood, which was also abundantly sprinkled about the temple, and acted as an adhesive plaster to a quantity of feathers. This temple stood hard by a deep pit, formed by the excavation of the clay used to build the house, which lay exposed and unprotected by any railing. The edge was overgrown by treacherous shrubs, so that a stranger who came along in the dark might easily topple over. I subsequently discovered many such pitfalls, not only in Whydah, but also in every town in the country. Having passed this polytheistic Cerberus we were ushered into a courtyard, where, seated upon chairs under an earth-daubed verandah, we awaited the appearance of the Caboceer, who, being the agent of the king in all matters with white people, had amassed a considerable fortune, besides possessing almost regal sway in Whydah.

There were abundant evidences of the owner’s mimicry of European customs. A candle in a stable lantern stood upon a rude table, and on the opposite side of the shed a sofa of native manufacture was placed. In each corner of the roof an Arabic charm was suspended — a sentence or two from the Koran, illuminated in blue and crimson upon goatskin. Opposite us, in a corner, were several umbrellas, and above them an American clock — not going— truly a prophetic emblem of the utter insignificance of the value of time with the Dahoman. The walls were decorated with gaudy-coloured German prints, vile even for them — and last, but by no means least, was a yellow, sun-spoilt photograph of Quinun in his war paint. Presently a slave brought a calabash from which he took decanters of claret, rum, and liqueurs which, together with tumblers, he placed on the table before us. Soon the Caboceer made his appearance, dressed in a loose robe of cotton, in pattern very similar to bed-ticking. He was a stout, muscular man, about forty y ears of age, with a round, bullet head, enormous mouth, small, bloodshot eyes, and no neck worth mentioning. His hair was shaved save a single tuft on the left side, and a few hairs formed an apology for a beard. His voice resembled the shouting of a man afflicted with asthma, being hoarse and husky in the extreme. He was by no means an unpleasant fellow, notwithstanding his somewhat rough exterior, and welcomed me in Portuguese with great cordiality. The introductory water was brought, and the usual salutation gone through, after which liquor was poured out with lavish extravagance by Quinun, who chinked our glasses and drank our healths in loud "vivas."

He enquired after the health of the Queen, the Emperor of the French, the King of Prussia, and other potentates, with all of whom he seemed to imagine I was on the most intimate terms. King William of Gabun also made similar enquiries when I paid him a visit in 1870.

He talked on various subjects for nearly two hours, keeping our glasses constantly filled and supplying us with cigars, and concluded by saying that the King was very anxious for me to go to Abomey to talk over various matters which he could not do with a "trade" man. He said that I should be back again to Whydah in eight days. I demurred: for knowing the little value placed upon time by all savage nations, I was unwilling to put myself in the power of the King; since however interesting a stay at his capital might be, it would totally prevent the prosecution of natural history, for which purpose I had visited the country. He, however, assured me that I should have full permission to collect any objects I might wish, and that if I desired I should be back again in Whydah in eight days. How he fulfilled his promise will be seen hereafter.

After a loving-cup Quinun summoned a slave with a lantern, and accompanied Mr. Courtenay and myself part of the way home, that being a national method of showing the greatest respect to a guest.

As we entered the factory I was struck by the chirruping of the frogs in the swamp, which could be heard most distinctly at this distance. Round a tree within the yard numerous hats were wheeling a mazy circle, ever and again darting out upon some luckless moth, the wings of which were apparently rejected, as I saw them fluttering to the ground upon several occasions.

The streets are silent and deserted soon after nightfall, and those who do venture out are preceded by a slave carrying a lantern. The King’s police exercise a peculiar mode of surveillance. They are always in pairs, and proceed at sundown to their respective posts, where they spread their mats and light a small fire. On passing them they start up with a suddenness enough to scare anyone, and flash their torches in the faces of the intruders, who, if unknown, are subjected to examination.

They are all under the orders of an officer called the Kah-icoh, who is a caboceer, and visits his myrmidons at uncertain hours, and woe to the unlucky wight who is caught napping! He is at once hound and chastised on the spot by the patrol, who use their sticks upon the hack of their unfortunate brother without mercy. Who knows how soon he may be the recipient of the same bounty! These policemen are, as a rule, stationed in every principal street, and are supported, like most of the officers of state in the country, by their wives and slaves, who are presented to them by the King.

We passed a quiet night, undisturbed by mosquitoes, and were aroused at daybreak by a hubbub beneath the windows of the factory. On looking out to ascertain the origin of the disturbance we found a company of soldiers assembled, who were making preparations for a journey to Abomey. They were amusing themselves by dancing, singing, talking, and catching their comrades’ acari. Each carried a miniature stool depending from his haversack, and at every opportunity it was placed on the ground, and the owner squatted upon it. It appeared that certain of them had been guilty of some misdemeanour, for several were bound hand and foot, and placed in rows before a small shed, under which some of the chiefs were seated. They strongly reminded me of trussed fowls in a poulterer’s shop. As each man’s turn came on he was placed before the judge in a prostrate attitude, his head being bowed to the dust. The pros and cons of the case were entered into by all the bystanders, and as sentence was passed upon each a handclapping of applause went through the audience. Presently a man came along bearing a bundle of peeled rods, a few of which he placed near each of the condemned men. When all were tried, a number of athletic fellows were selected, and the prisoners were trussed by having their wrists tied together and placed over their knees, beneath which a short stick was passed. Thus fixed they were helpless, with the skin of the back stretched to the utmost, truly a very admirable position for the reception of the corrective. A man with a rod in his hand then stationed himself on either side of each culprit. Blows were then administered alternately by each, the poor wretch yelling out at each stroke. After a few strokes the flesh assumed a gray colour, and presently the blood was drawn. Still the punishment continued until the backs of the wretches were like pieces of raw beef, the blood trickling down to the ground. On the completion of the sentence, which was not a certain number of strokes, but a certain number of rods to be broken over each man’s back, the wretched being was turned on his back, and in that lacerated condition dragged along the sand. The yells were fearful, and many fainted under the cruel ordeal. I afterwards found that these men had been guilty of stealing some of the King’s palm oil.

As the ceremony of "entering" our vessel was to be performed this morning, I availed myself of the circumstance to witness it. It is necessary that one of the firm to whom the ship is consigned be present, but as custom permits the appointment of any respectable individual to that office pro tern., the Rev. P. W. Bernasko, a native Wesleyan missionary, was delegated to represent us on the auspicious occasion. Notice of the arrival of the vessel had been given to the Avogan, or governor of the town, immediately her anchor was dropped, and our detention on hoard had absorbed the four or five days’ delay which, according to etiquette, must intervene between the notice and the ceremony, the value of time being totally ignored. About ten o’clock in the morning the Reverend made his appearance — a short, stumpy, grey-headed old man: of whom more hereafter. After a glass of brandy, swallowed with the gusto of a connoisseur, he proceeded to the rendezvous, and Captain Williams and I followed. A table covered with a glaring Bandana stood in the shadow of the tree, and upon it were several bottles of rum, gin, and liqueurs, the "heart-cooling" water being also conspicuous. A crowd had already collected, amongst which the itinerant vendors of eatables were driving a brisk trade, while numerous urchins flocked round us and criticised our every motion; and one anxious to display his civilization made a charity-school bow, and concluded with "maunin, sah," — his whole stock of English. Presently the noise of drums and horns was heard approaching, and soon a company of soldiers came into view. They were dressed in short tunics of striped cotton, with wide armholes like waistcoats, fitting loosely to the neck, and confined round the middle by a cartridge-belt of black goatskin, with ornaments of cowries, beads, &c., upon it. All wore short drawers reaching to the knees, the lower parts being formed of gaudy-coloured material. No soldier, male or female, is allowed to appear in uniform without these janghirs, the royal family alone excepted. One regiment, however, as will be hereafter mentioned, wear long white cotton drawers, one leg of which is cut off half-way down the thigh. Shoes or hats there were none, but all carried a haversack containing bullets, flints, gun rags, and other necessaries, and from the side of this bag hung the private fetish charms of the owner. All wore beads round their necks, some being content with two or three only, while others had a full necklace.

The arms were Tower flint muskets, which were brandished about like chibs as the soldiers danced along the road, performing every gymnastic exercise that could he imagined. Some would catch hold of their gun by the butt and muzzle and leap over it, bringing the weapon up behind the hack, after which they would extend the gun vertically and pirouette on one foot. Others would throw their weapon several feet into the air, hut woe to the unlucky soldier who fails to catch it in its descent! Fine and imprisonment arc his portion. The standard of the company was borne by a young fellow who rushed about with it as if demented, waving it in our faces and extolling its beauty. It was a square of white calico, with a rude device representing a blue soldier firing a red musket.

The band followed, the instruments being horns, drums, gong-gongs, and rattles. The horns on this occasion were young bullocks’ horns, more rarely small scrivellos or young elephants’ tusks, with a hole near the small end, and "played "by means of the left hand, which opens or closes the mouth more or less. I never saw the two-noted bugle, as mentioned by Burton. The music was something like the singing of a young tenor-voiced jackass. Other horns will be mentioned on the occasions on which they were first seen. The drums were of several kinds. Some were mere hollowed tree trunks, shaped something like an Enfield cartridge, the wide end being covered with a goat-skin kept stretched by means of leather thongs. This drum is carried on the head of a man who walks in front of the musician, who operates on the goat-skin by means of crooked sticks. When not carried, the drum is placed between two crossed sticks, the lower end resting on the ground while the performer sits astride of his instrument. Another drum, much smaller than the former, is shaped something like an egg-glass, being formed of two calabashes fixed back to back. The goat-skin head is fastened by thongs from the open end, and the instrument is carried under the left arm, which, by compressing or relaxing the thongs, causes the drum to give out various notes. This is also played with a crooked stick. Both these drums arc sometimes played with a stick and the hand, and at other times by the hand alone. The notes are very flat and unmusical.

The gong-gong, or panigan, consists of two gauntlet-shaped bells of different sizes, the one being soldered to the other at an angle of about thirty-five degrees, and the whole fixed to a wooden or iron handle, often carved into the resemblance of a man’s fist. They arc played by an iron rod about a foot long. There are also single and multiple gong-gongs, each having a particular part assigned to it, but they all give out a flat, dead sound, not unlike the harmony that might be produced in a kitchen if the scullery-maids were to commence playing on the saucepan handles with the pokers. The notes are generally pitched to an interval of a fifth, and the instrument is played in various ways, according to circumstances. If a panigan-hun-to , or gong-gong herald, is proclaiming an edict of the king, he commences with ting-ting-ting-ting — ting, tang — ting, tang, the tones being like those of a church clock striking the quarters. When playing a tune, the lower and higher notes are usually struck alternately, but sometimes a kind of tune is played — not on a single instrument, but by the performers on each gong-gong striking the note of his instrument when required by the tune, in the same manner as is done by our bell-ringers. The gong -gong heralds play a conspicuous part in the court of Dahomey.

The rattles are decanter-shaped gourds, containing stones or cowries, covered with a netting, having one of the vertebra of a python or other large snake attached to each knot. The gourd is held in the left hand, neck downwards, and shaken in time to the tune; while, alternately with the shakings, the right hand taps the neck with a small wooden battledore. Occasionally two rattles are played by the same performer, but these are only used in what may be termed the choruses, and arc then held bottle downwards. Burton is mistaken with regard to the singers, for vocal and instrumental music are always separated in Dahomey, unless the single player on the gong-gong who gives the time can be considered to be an accompanyist.

After this digression we will get back to the ceremony. Behind the band came the caboceer, or captain, of the company, the rule being "juniors first." This officer was dressed similarly to the men, hut in addition had a short dagger with a silver hilt, suspended from his left shoulder, and a Scotch glengarry of green cloth, with some device embroidered upon it. Round his neck he wore several strings of heads, from which several yards of plaited white cotton, something like twine, hung down his hack, the emblem of rank as an officer. He danced and whirled round like his company, and after snapping fingers and saying "maunin "to the Reverend, squatted down on his hams to the right, with his company around him. His umbrella, a tawdry affair of white calico with red heads and blue swords on each alternate lappet, was held over his head, the stick resting on the ground.

Several other companies with their bands followed, each distinguished by its particular flag, and something peculiar in the regimental dress. The celebrated English, or blue, company were known by caps of white cotton, with a blue dragon on one side; and another corps had white caps, with blue or red trefoils sewn on. Some of the civilians belonging to the troops carried axes, made more for show than use. These were iron blades a few inches long, oblong in shape, and stuck into a handle, but instead of projecting at right angles they formed an acute angle with the shaft, something like a hoe. Some were content with sticks, with knobs or branches projecting at the required angle, many being ornamented with iron rings or nails stuck into the head in a spiral or other fanciful pattern. Others carried swords like billhooks, with blades terminating in circles, and ornamented with indented figures; and all — swords, sticks, and guns — were scrupulously clean and bright.

The company of Chuydatoh, the second in command, formed by far the most picturesque group. They were armed with bows made of pliant wood, and curved suddenly towards the top, where they were strengthened by iron rings. The arrows were contained in black leather quivers slung over the shoulder.

The "place" of the Avogan, who is very old, was taken by one of his dependants, and his company closed the procession itself, although more than a hundred of the rabble followed and executed various dances on their own account.

When all had arrived, each danced three times round the open space before the tree, from right to left, and then halting before his Reverence, commenced then' salute. Their guns, sticks, billhooks, and daggers were raised to a level with their shoulders, and then each cried out, "Wul-leh! wul-leh! wul-leh! oo-o-eh!" raising their guns to the full extent of their arms, with a yell impossible to describe. Then lowering them to the ground with a grunt, they completed the Dahoman military salute.

The water being tasted, the Avogan, through the medium of his deputy, prepared to drink the king’s health. The grog was poured out, part spilt on the ground, and the toasters standing up, while everybody else was down on their marrow-bones, smothering themselves with dust, the fiery fluid was swallowed, and the glass turned bottom up, to show there were no heel-taps, which would be a gross insult to his Majesty. During this ceremony guns were fired and the praises of the King shouted out. The health of the Captain was then proposed, followed by that of the head of the firm, after which all the caboceers were toasted in turn, each sipping the liquid and then pouring it down the throat of one of his kneeling soldiers, who meekly rubbed his skull in the dirt. This ended, another procession was formed, juniors first being again the order, and, last of all, the representative of the house in a hammock carried by two men. This troupe perambulated the town to the music of the various bands, admired by the populace, and upon arrival at the fort of the nation to which the vessel belonged (in our case the English fort), the usual three marches round were performed, and the head men were regaled with more rum and liqueurs within the fort, the caboceers being by no means so abstemious in private as in public. Samples of the goods on board the vessel were then given to the Avogan, who despatched a messenger to Abomey with the "stick" of the firm wrapped in white cloth to acquaint bis Majesty of the arrival of the ship. Each firm, and each person of importance, has a stick carved into some fanciful device, which, when delivered by a messenger, acts in lieu of a visiting card, and as a guarantee of the genuineness of the message. The customs dues were then set aside for the king, but they did not depend upon the tonnage of the vessel or amount of goods landed, but upon the number of masts to the vessel. A three-masted lugger would therefore pay heavier dues than a brig of 300 tons.

More dances, gun filing, and snapping fingers brought the ceremony to a conclusion, which, with very little difference, has been the same, and performed under the same tree, ever since the Dahomans had intercourse with Europeans.

CHAPTER II. AN EXCURSION NEAR WHYDAH.

In the morning I was requested by Quinun to accompany him to his plantation to witness the trial of some new mortars he had received for the king. As my natural history apparatus had not yet arrived, and collecting was out of the question, I determined to go, as the journey would give me an insight into part of the surrounding country, with regard to the zoological specimens it might produce. About seven o’clock in the morning a hammock arrived for my use. This is the usual mode of conveyance throughout the coast. In the present case it consisted of strips of various coloured native cloth, sewn into an oblong-shaped hammock, the threads at the sides being knotted into a fringe, while those at the ends formed the clews. The clews were looped over pegs fixed about three feet from the extremities of a fourteen-foot bamboo stalk (Raphia vinifera). In Dahomey, the hammock is carried by a man at each end, who protects his head with a roll of cloth, plaited grass, or other soft material. Considerable practice is required to enable a hammock-man to become an expert in his art. Only the hull-necked ever attain anything like proficiency, but good men will travel at the rate of four miles per hour and will perform a journey of thirty miles per diem.

Four men are appointed to each hammock, two carrying it at a time, while the others walk alongside, relieving the bearers at short intervals by grasping the clews at either end and putting them on their shoulders, while the pole men hold the bamboo stalk above their head at arm’s length. Each pair of pole-men change places at intervals of about a quarter of an hour. On the top of the pole an awning is spread, generally of gaily-coloured cloth, and the occupant is fully employed in preventing the tall grass and twigs that stretch across the narrow paths outside the towns, from either tearing the awning or giving him stinging switches across the face.

On the Gold Coast the hammock has short transverse hoards fixed across the pole near the ends, and four men support the ends of these on their heads. The mode of travelling is very tedious, especially with had hammock-men, as the jolting, although highly conducive to promote the intermingling of the viands in the stomach, is at the same time very suggestive of seasickness. Occasionally the pole will slip off the head of one of the carriers, letting the unfortunate passenger come into violent collision with the ground, which generally results in a' reminder that he possesses a small of the back and an occiput, besides causing him to give vent to some very strong adjectives and wishes that the bearers might be summarily consigned to a warmer and a deeper clime.

If any caboceer is allowed to fall, severe punishment is inflicted upon the delinquent; while if the king were permitted to touch the earth with his sacred person, a few heads at least would be struck off.

Embarking in this "humping car," we started for the caboceer’s plantation, tilting the awning on the sunny side "a la mode." Arrived at Quinun’s house claret was served out, and after a few minutes’ delay we went on to the rendezvous of the procession, without which no great man can stir abroad.

Our way led through narrow streets, the stench of which was unbearable even at that early hour, owing to the rubbish from each house being thrown into the middle of the road, or rather alley; while a slimy green liquid oozing from a kind of gutter from the walls of the various houses caused the atmosphere to become redolent of anything but perfume. Scarcely any of the paths were level, being worn into ruts by the rain, while on the heaps of garbage decomposing in the sun, numerous turkey buzzards were regaling themselves. These birds arc held sacred by the natives and are so fat and lazy as barely to get out of the way to allow anyone to pass. There appears to be more than one species; one, called Abram by the natives, is the Percuopter niger of naturalists; while another, the Akhaon of the Whydahs, is probably Vultur auricularis. Any injury done to these birds by a native is visited with punishment upon the offender, besides bringing down the sure and certain vengeance of the god Legba, to whom the bird is sacred. Although held in such reverence by the people, I have shot them frequently, even in the towns, and was never remonstrated with for so doing.

As we jogged along the hammock-men kept up a monotonous chant, extemporised for the occasion, and doubtless many of the jokes they indulged in were at our expense. Happy is the man who does not "savvey their mouth "upon such occasions. Every acquaintance they met was greeted with "oko dhu," while we ourselves were often saluted with a "maunin, sail," given in true S’a Leone twang. When we arrived at Quinun’s stores, we found about a hundred of his servants assembled, ready to conduct their master to his plantation. After snapping fingers and "watering" with Quinun, we formed into a procession, the post of honour in the rear being given to myself. First, a band of drummers, horn-blowers, and gong-gong men, each playing a tune on his own account, enlivened the road with martial music. Then followed a magistrate, bearing a crooked stick as an emblem of his authority. He was followed by a boy slave carrying his tobacco-pouch and pipe, another of the many insignia of his rank. These pipes (azoquah) are always of native manufacture, made by the Amazons, who formerly enjoyed the monopoly. The bowl is of clay, generally of a reddish, yellow, but sometimes black, owing to the presence of manganese. In shape if often resembles the ordinary clay pipe of civilisation, but sometimes it is carved into the form of a bird, fish, canoe, or man. The tube is formed of a salt-wood stick, about eighteen inches long, peeled white, and rudely carved, and often stained blue-black with indigo. When not in use the pipe is placed in a case of wood, something like two golf-sticks placed side by side, with a sliding lid. The tobacco-pouch is made of tanned goat-skin, dyed in various colours, and large enough to pass muster for a carpet-bag. It is divided into several pockets for tobacco, "azoh," of which there is rarely more than an ounce, if any; and tinder, "dekych," made of finely scraped decaying palm-tree wood, which burns with a smell like musty linen, and a few gun-flints. The steel, of native manufacture, is an oblong piece of iron, hardened by being plunged red-hot into cold water, and attached to the pouch by a long leathern thong, which secures the bag when it is wrapped round the pipe-case. If a pipe-light is required, a pinch of dekych is held beneath the flint by the thumb and finger of the left hand, and the steel is struck against it by the right, to the danger of the knuckles of the inexpert tyro. When a spark is obtained, the smouldering tinder is thrust into the pipe bowl above the tobacco, which, by-the-bye, is generally American leaf. Thousands of short clays are annually sold by the merchants, as both sexes smoke, the old women seeming to prefer a filthy black bowl with a stem about an inch long, so that the smoke is inhaled by the nostrils as well as the mouth.

After the knight of the pipe, a company of soldiers straggled along, dancing, shouting, and throwing their guns into the air. Next followed Quinun, who was dressed in a striped calico tunic, confined to the waist by a blue and white cricket belt. He wore about a dozen necklaces of various kinds of beads, including the coral string, worn only by the nobles. Round his forearm he had several silver and iron armlets and carried a scimitar-shaped sword. His head was decorated with a broad-brimmed felt hat, much too large for him, with a long streamer of scarlet ribbon Hying from it. He was mounted sideways on a brown horse, covered with a leather saddle-cloth stuffed with dried grass. The horse was led by a halter of grass rope, Dahoman etiquette not permitting a pace quicker than a walk. Few ride cross-legged, and all arc supported on the off-side by an attendant, the rider generally hugging him round the neck, while the groom clasps his master round the waist — truly, a dignified arrangement. Saddles and bridles are unknown, and there are always sufficient attendants about the rider to carry him, horse and all. Beside the caboceer, his umbrella-bearer carried a tawdry affair formed of pink cotton, about the size of the top of a loo-table.

After Quinun, a band, playing quite as well as the one in front, preceded my hammock, and the usual tag-rag and bobtail brought up the rear.

Our way lay through a small market on the north-west side of the town, called Zo-mai-hic-men, which means "market without fire." This name was given it by the "Chacha," one of the principal chiefs, of whom more anon, who kept a store of gunpowder in a swish building in the neighbourhood, and would not, in consequence, allow any grass to be burnt, or any fires to be lighted within a given radius. This is only a small accessory of the Zubeme, the principal market, and is established for the convenience of the residents in the north-west of the town. On the south side of the road, the long swish wall surrounding one of the houses of the Chacha is utilised as a screen from wind and sun. Here groups of vendors, chiefly women, squabble in full chorus. The stock in trade of each person is but small, and in this market there arc no booths, but each seller squats on a diminutive stool behind her collection. The principal wares are raw or cooked provisions, generally displayed in calabashes; beads, a few pieces of the commonest cotton cloth, water, and firewood. Most of the business is transacted between three and four in the afternoon, when swarms of the female dependants of all classes meet to haggle over their bargains and cheat each other — if they can. Sufficient food for a native’s meal can be procured ready cooked for about three pence. The value of money, however, has suffered considerable diminution during the last twenty years. The medium of exchange among the natives is the cowrie (Cypraea) which is imported into the country by the European merchants from Zanzibar. These are strung on twisted grass stems in strings, and fifty strings make one "head." At the present time fifty cowries make a string in Whydah, only forty-six in Alladah and Abomey, while the cowries given by the king, which are strung by the Amazons, average only about forty to a string. Four heads of cowries are equal to a dollar (4s. 6d.) in Whydah, and three heads in the interior. At Whydah, therefore, a head is worth 1s. 1 ½ d., and a string about a farthing; but in every shop there are to be seen plenty of two-cowrie lots, over which the shopkeeper and customer will have as wordy an argument, and consume as much tobacco, as over any of the more expensive one-head articles. Not that the vendors seem at all anxious to dispose of their goods, for they all appear apathetic and placid as they sit hour after hour, looking very much as the descendants of the witches in Macbeth might be supposed to do if trying their hands at commercial pursuits. Notwithstanding the noisy excitement among the buyers, the price of the articles is seldom abated a single cowrie; but, on the other hand, if "white face " wishes to purchase any article, two or three hundred per cent, is immediately clapped on.

To the north of this market is the French fort, now transformed into the factory of M. Regis, of Marseilles, and by all means the best looking and most comfortable building in the town, — which is nothing more than what is to be expected under such masters. The old fort was destroyed in 1728, during the revolt of the Whydahs under Fosu, in Agajah’s reign. They were protected by the Governor, M. Williams, whose treachery afterwards caused his death.

The site of the fort was formerly called Pelloo. It is not advantageously chosen, as there is more malaria about this district than anywhere else in the town; besides which, it is screened from the sea breeze by reason of its low situation, and is, in consequence, very much hotter than the other forts.