Designing and Making Rings and Bangles E-Book

Miranda Falkner

• Herausgeber: Crowood
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2017

Beschreibung

Rings and bangles are timeless jewellery pieces; from simple elegance to bold creations, they make stunning statements. This beautiful book explains traditional techniques with step-by-step guides, and gives inspiration through stunning examples from leading jewellers. Written by two award-winning designer makers, it encourages jewellers of all levels of experience to express themselves and make unique pieces of jewellery to be worn and treasured. This new book covers the design process, from initial observation to developing, selecting materials and finalizing an idea. Detailed instruction is given on more elaborate ways of making and decorating work, including casting, texturing, etching, granulation, inlay and keum-boo. There is also a guide to using gemstones with a range of settings. Written both for beginners wanting to make their first ring or bangle and for the more experienced looking for inspiration, with advice on equipment and materials, step-by-step guides to traditional techniques including simple forming and soldering and an emphasis on the importance of finishing the ring or bangle and achieving perfection. Lavishly illustrated with 200 colour photographs.

Leseprobe

Designing and Making Rings and Bangles

Designing and Making Rings and Bangles

Miranda Falkner and Evangelos Pourgouris

CROWOOD

First published in 2017 by

The Crowood Press Ltd

Ramsbury, Marlborough

Wiltshire SN8 2HR

www.crowood.com

This e-book first published in 2017

© Miranda Falkner and Evangelos Pourgouris 2017

All rights reserved. This e-book is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of this text may be a direct infringement of the author’s and publisher’s rights, and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly.

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 1 78500 319 6

Disclaimer

Safety is of the utmost importance in every aspect of jewellery and silversmithing. When using tools, always follow closely the manufacturer’s recommended procedures. However, the authors and publisher cannot accept responsibility for any accident or injury caused by following the advice given in this book.

Frontispiece: 18ct yellow- and white-gold rings set with green and pink tourmalines; by Evangelos and Miranda.

Contents

Introduction

Acknowledgements

CHAPTER 1Designing

CHAPTER 2Tools and Equipment

CHAPTER 3Materials

CHAPTER 4Basic Techniques

CHAPTER 5Special Techniques

CHAPTER 6Stone Setting

CHAPTER 7Finishing

CHAPTER 8Hallmarking

Conversion Chart for Ring Sizes

Conversion Chart for Metal Thickness

Conversion Chart for Temperatures

Index

Introduction

The field of contemporary jewellery making is fast changing along with the technological advances of our era. Computers, 3D design and prototyping, the use of lasers or fancy composite materials, are just some examples of new equipment, techniques and materials that are being adapted and introduced in the manufacture of a modern jewel. It is inevitable that during this process the pool of traditional skills is at risk of shrinking as the conveniences of modern equipment take over from the human hand, especially in the mass production sector of jewellery. But at the same time, and as proven many times in our industrial history, this race to mechanization and uniformity is creating an opening for individually crafted artisan jewellery.

18ct white- and yellow-gold ring set with a rough ruby; by Evangelos and Miranda.

Technology for some can be threatening, while to others it is seen as a liberating factor in expanding our freedom to create, and broadening the boundaries of creativity, allowing more opportunities to pioneer new and exciting work. For one thing is still true: the need for the human element to innovate remains as strong as ever. Contemporary jewellery is about expressiveness, and the embodiment of ideas and concepts in a wonderful and tactile medium.

Whatever the standpoint, we believe that traditional skills should form the creative backbone to anyone’s artistic endeavours. We have been fortunate enough to receive good practical training during our college years, and that has given us a solid foundation on which to build our practising skills and to develop our ideas and creativity. We have come to refine those skills through the diversity of the projects and commissions that we have undertaken over the years, and now wish to share some of them through this book in the hope that these abilities will continue for years to come.

Without a doubt, rings have always been a big and popular part of our jewellery production, and comprise one of the strongest lines in our current business, so it was natural to concentrate the focus of this book on the making of rings along with bangles. In theory the two are no different: they are processed in a similar manner using the same techniques, and technically the only thing that distinguishes them is their size, in terms of scale and in the choice of materials considered best suited for the wearer’s comfort. But the techniques explained here can also be used in any other jewellery application.

In this book we aim to show how a recollected image or a memento can be turned into a design idea or concept by interpretation and development; we then explain the conventional and unconventional techniques that would be required to make a ring or bangle take shape in the way we want, by means of simple forming and soldering, or the non-solder method, or by more elaborate ways of fabricating and decorating the work.

Whether the project is to make a ring or a bangle, do not let yourself be intimidated by the practical skills required: you will find that they are not as scary as they appear to be.

The technical chapters are divided into basic and more advanced stages, so start at the level you are most comfortable with and develop your skills from there. There is also a chapter showing you how to set gemstones in rings or bangles, ranging from easy methods to more elaborate techniques, which can be useful for those who wish to embellish their work and give it a more luxurious feel. In the finishing chapter, there are some suggestions of the possible textures you could create and use on a ring or bangle in the last stages of the production, and the techniques used in enhancing the overall design and quality of its presentation.

Besides our own work, we have included examples of other makers’ work from around the world, not only to demonstrate the diversity of ring and bangle designs today, but also to exemplify the materials and techniques explained in this book as used by other practitioners, and applied from a different perspective and in a new dimension.

Whether you are a hobbyist or someone who has already acquired the fundamental skills of making, this book is only meant as a guide to suggest what could be technically possible; its intention is to provide some measured practical steps and cautionary advice. And we hope that the illustrations in the step-by-step guides will inspire you to produce something unusual, or to invent a new technique, or come up with a truly original idea. We also hope that this book will serve as a catalyst to a greater journey so you might become a designer in your own right, and that you do not necessarily need to follow our ways of designing and processing, but learn to develop you own ideas further, and create something special and unique that is truly yours.

‘Cellular Double Act’: a unique pair of veined agates was used to create this masterpiece in silver and 18ct yellow gold, by Evangelos and Miranda.

So go out and set free your imagination and creativeness, learn the basic and advanced techniques that are needed to fashion the creative piece, and soon you will see the rewarding result: the finished object that expresses your unspoken, inner thought. Always research what inspires and interests you in the development of your own concepts and ideas; also practise using different tools as much as possible so you become familiar with them, and understand their uses and effects on different kinds of material, be it organic or synthetic. This will help your knowledge and understanding in the learning curve of each process, so that you and your work may take a stand of originality in your progress towards the professional field.

Anything is possible with a bold attitude and a perceptive mind.

Acknowledgements

Ahuge thank you to those who have contributed to this book, and have supported this project with their outstanding work and enthusiasm. Without them, this book may not have been possible. You all know who you are, and so, thank you! In particular our sincere gratitude goes to the Evangelos Pourgouris’ family for their spiritual support; also to a dear young friend from Italy, Sara Angeli, who supported our ideas in making this book.

A collection of sculptural rings in 18ct yellow gold, one set with diamonds, by Evangelos and Miranda.

CHAPTER 1

Designing

So why design? Design is more important today than ever before, from architecture to fashion, to the jewellery we adorn ourselves with. It is the element that records and reflects our time and way of life, it depicts our dreams and desires, as well as the significant social changes in the environment we live in. But more importantly, good design raises our sensibility and our awareness of our surroundings, and encourages a more positive and creative engagement that inspires our very own identity. As a counterbalance to these days of mass production and uniformity, it has acquired great relevance in the discovery and promotion of our personal and unique style.

This ring features an intricate construction designed and made by Evangelos and Miranda as part of their ‘Maze’ collection of work. Made in silver and 18ct yellow-gold wires, set with a banded agate stone.

Jewellery design is an important step before any of our ideas can take physical shape, a step that helps transform and translate our concept into an actual physical form. It can be used to convey a hidden message, perhaps about a social issue, or to signify one’s status within society (whether religious, political or financial), or to bear personal details that we feel are essential to the styling of the actual jewel. This may be a humble heirloom that suggests our roots and heritage, which we want to acknowledge and maintain; or a collection of crown jewels that shows off the magnificent regency of kings and queens, resonating their regal importance; or simply an understated ornament that represents the wearer’s preferred lifestyle. Essentially it is a statement that hints and suggests.

A ring made by Evangelos and Miranda from their ‘Cellular’ range of work. It showcases the intricacy of the contemporary claw setting using silver and 18ct yellow gold, set with a kidney-shaped dendrite opal gemstone, where the interesting mineral pattern can be revealed at its best.

It is our belief that good design should arouse and entice our interest and emotion, which will then lead us to engage thoughts and opinions. Different ideas come with different expectations, so it is often debatable whether artistic expression, suitability or durability should be allowed to work alongside one another as these come into play, or even whether they will serve everybody’s needs or requirements. Whatever the reasons for creating an item, it is nonetheless a process that will lead us to giving material form to the idea we have.

CAN I DESIGN?

Like a spoken language, design is a communication tool, the means to put ideas forward and explain our thoughts. To some this comes with natural flair just like a mother tongue, while for others it is more like a foreign language, intimidating to start with, but with patience and practice it becomes easy and effortless. So regardless of the starting point, in time anybody can become an expressive designer.

As designers we would and could design any way we want, and should feel free to interpret our ideas through anything we find amusing and stimulating: this could be a concept that concerns our environment or surroundings, something simple or more spectacular and elaborate, something that follows current fashion trends, or perhaps a personal statement. It’s all an idea in the mind that leads us to play with such subjects. It also depends on the confidence we have in ourselves, the way we feel, and the type of things that matter to us most.

SO WHERE DO I BEGIN?

To begin any design ideas, all you need is a pen and paper to draw the image you saw and formed in your mind, in the least complicated way, or in the language you know and are comfortable with. Then research it further, with a constant stream of drawings and diagrams, going anywhere your mind takes you, deploying some of the simplest and most basic techniques you understand, to see if that idea matches the concept you originally perceived in your mind.

Remember, there are no specific rules or restrictions as to how you should design in drawings or sketches, they are the expression of your own ideas – except of course technical drawings, which require precision in measurement and profiles for the craftsman to understand, in order that he can undertake the process of making. After all, this is only the representation of your thoughts and ideas, something that you could interpret and relate to in your working language. What can be more personal than your own drawings or sketching style? Understanding each line or scribble is a matter for you, but not for others; so practise with integrity, and draw or sketch in the way you feel comfortable with, and in time you will improve for the better.

DEVELOPING A PERSONAL STYLE

This ring was made by Dong Han using a collected ancient jade mask, conch and ebony. The ring shank was carved into a form that would hold the mask and the shell resembling an animal. WEN LIAO

This ring from Cristina Zani was inspired by and based on the urban landscape, reminiscent of the places we once knew. Wood and colour is used to emphasize the landscape in a simple geometric form, with the houses depicted in silver and then oxidized; the wood is carved, faceted and lacquered with colour pigments to give the feel of an ageing structure. The houses were formed in silver with pattern and then oxidized, sitting side by side with the wood piece to complete the picture.

Fabiana Gadano sets a good example in using recycled materials for her creations. This ring is made with recycled polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastic bottles and silver-plated brass round wire. The beautiful translucent green was shaped into the fluid form of the floral petals and looks stunning against the white, and the ring shank was jointed with a flat round disc on top to provide support for the linking of the petals. DAMIÁN WASSER

Another quirky design by Simeon Shomov, with a man climbing up a ladder. This mini sculpture was created with wax, then cast in silver, soldered on to the oxidized, flat silver ring band, and finally gold plated. SIMEON SHOMOV

With more and more designer jewellers practising in the field these days, there is fierce competition between them, and great pressure to design something new and different, or to regenerate the old and basic, in order to establish their presence and identity in the market place. Talented artistic designers will constantly search and research for concepts, ideas and materials that are normally beyond the boundaries of commercial jewellery use. Each will attempt working with alternative methods and techniques to bring out the concept and their own finish, something that would be seen as arty and novel, something definitely unique that no one else has, made after their own original design, and hand-made in a limited edition.

The availability of designer jewellery to the wider public from all walks of life has these days increased, attracting public buyers or collectors from different levels, all flaunting their artistic streaks for every lifestyle possible. So for designers it is increasingly important to create and enforce a personal style to their work, as a signature, as it makes them stand out from this increasingly competitive industry. And for each of us, whether we are professional or not, our reputation is built on our own identity as a designer or artist through the differences of style or the techniques we use.

To develop a truly individual and personal style, the main question is this: what type of designer do you want to be, and where do you place yourself in the many categories within the designer jewellery industry? Does your inclination draw on the natural environment, or fashion, or artistic awareness, or something more industrialized? As there are many different categories in the design sector, finding one that suits your style will require some time and practice, as will getting to know what seems to come most naturally to you, from concepts to the choice of materials, to the way in which the piece is finished.

One thing you have to consider is to avoid doing what many others do, or may have already established in an overcrowded category. To forge your own unique position in the market you will need to be innovative and imaginative in finding raw materials and concepts on your own, and discover unexplored areas to develop your own reputation; so be daring, if not controversial, challenge concepts and beliefs where people are critical of all things new, and soon your work will become unique because it will venture where no one else has yet dared to tread. And before long, you will see people following your example and findings.

THE DESIGN PROCESS

This specially commissioned piece was designed following a minimalistic approach by Evangelos and Miranda. A sensual, hinged bangle made with silver oval wire and an 18ct yellow-gold clasp that contrasts with a matt outer and shiny inner finish.

A contemporary ring made by Fabrizio Tridenti, inspired by industrial architecture and the complexity of his technological surroundings. The ring is made from multiple components of brass, positioned with a precision that creates and fills the space in between into perfection, and then coated with bright acrylic colour to enliven the whole form and concept.

The best way to approach designing and to make it easier, especially in the initial phases of your development, is to divide your workflow into the following stages: first, observation and recording, then the setting of initial aims, next selection and analysis, followed by developing the design, selecting appropriate materials and finalizing the design. It is usually helpful to keep to this order until you become more confident with the process. As you gain more experience you can move into more abstract designs, or can work from imagination, whether on paper or actually working on the bench, and eventually you will find the learning curve that best appeals to you and will develop the techniques that suit you best.

Observation and Recording

Before designing and developing your own ideas it is useful to establish an archive or database of things that interest you: these will be the source of your inspiration and will act as a constant reference to your future designs. Start by observing visual cues that you come across in your everyday life, or in the pursuit of your hobbies or during your leisure time – this may be anything of interest, whether organic or man-made.

Of course we all look at things differently, and what attracts you may not have the same effect on others. So pay attention to the small details that stand out for you in a view such as a cityscape, or in buildings that provide aesthetic linear and geometric ideas, or perhaps in the unexpected beauty of ruined, derelict houses we see somewhere – you may even find an old door or a wrecked ship inspiring, with colours that people will often dismiss. Or if you take a walk in the open, notice the organic shapes that nature presents to you, from the smallest flower, a seed pot, to the outline of trees, even clouds. Whatever your interests and your preferred style, consider these inspirations to be an example of a starting point to your designs.

In order to keep newly found ideas alive, or the creativeness you feel, you should make it a habit to sketch or photograph what you see on the day, and to jot down in words the essence of your thoughts at the time: this is essential for all artists, as many of these original drawings could help in developing further ideas, as well as preserving them. Furthermore interpretation can and will change from one moment to the next according to our emotions, in particular because we look at things differently each day and with a fresher perspective because of the moods we feel.

So never rub out or try to change any of those absentmindedly drawn lines or scribbled patterns, or try to perfect the ideas behind the shapes or forms, because on another occasion when you revisit them you may perceive them differently; after all, this is what inspired you in the first place, and by allowing ideas to spiral they may become something else altogether, which is totally unexpected. Always remember that these are the original concepts, and they are the base for many other things you might make in the future.

Setting Your Initial Aims

Having gathered the foundation material for your creations, it is now a good time to set your initial aims and objectives for each design, so the subsequent steps of development are more focused and purposeful. Once you determine what the object will be, for example a ring or a bangle, the first question should be: who is it for? Is it for an external interested party, or for you? Another question could be: is it for everyday wear, or just as an ornament? Keep asking questions until you form a clearer idea for the project in hand, and the rest will follow.

An interesting single mineral stone ring made in silver and 18ct yellow gold by Evangelos and Miranda. It is set with ‘Cellular’ units as claws, which showcase the pattern and colour of this amazing natural zoisite to its best advantage.

Iron ring made by Christa Lühtje, measured and cut in a natural organic form; the iron gives a pleasing rawness and a sensual feel to the whole design. MIREI TAKEUCHI

A geometric ring made in silver and gold, and with a lapis lazuli gem, by Helfried Kodré. Of double cubic construction, the ring’s surface is decorated with gold rivets for the design pattern, then set in a seamless top with a lapis lazuli gemstone. HELFRIED KODRÉ

If the object is for personal use, setting the aim couldn’t be easier, as you may know already what you want and what you would like the finished piece to look like. If you are working to an external brief such as a design competition or a commission from a potential client, or perhaps a gift for family or friends, understanding their requirements and expectations is essential. Record any consultation, then pursue your research into the idea of interest before you develop any proposals, ensuring the selected design matches the brief and the desired criteria.

Selection and Analysis

Along with observation, selecting what is most relevant is one of the most important skills of a good designer. At this stage of the design process you must learn to be decisive and select only the suitable elements from your research for the project in hand, and leave out what is superfluous; so examine your research archive, and only keep the elements that fulfil the criteria of your initial aims.

Then analyse the selected shapes, forms and textures, and try to arrange this visual information to see how it can all fit together in the development of your project. To help this process you will need to have a good idea of the basic shape or form of the design, whether it will be two- or three-dimensional, and its approximate size. Keep it simple and basic to begin with, until you are comfortable with the skills and techniques you have learned. Do not try anything too complicated all at once, as extra ideas or suggestions can be considered at a later stage, such as finishes and any of the other exterior elements.

Developing the Design

Now comes the experimental and playful stage of the design process. The idea is to investigate the material from the previous selection and analysis stage, and to use its essential qualities to fashion it into forms and shapes that can be applied to the project in hand, gradually working and developing your initial thoughts into a more detailed design until you feel you have reached your objective. In the finished piece the element of the source can be as obvious or obscure as you like.

You could start by making a mock-up using scrap paper or metal foil, playing with the basic forms that come to mind and that appeal to you. All the while, continued drawing could help to develop and expand any possible ideas further, perhaps diversifying them into many different designs that you could later develop as a collection or range.

Once the final basic design is in place, you can then begin to explore its potential in the making processes: this would include the techniques used to create it, the colour contrast, contour, details and finishes, understanding what is involved and how to make the final piece attractive and exciting.

The dominant feature of the overall design is a rich coloured, triangular cut, pink tourmaline gem set in a sculptural ring band. Made in solid 18ct yellow gold with matt and polished finishes by Evangelos and Miranda.