B. W. Matz
Dickensian Inns & Taverns
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Table of contents
PREFACE
CHAPTER I
CHAPTER II
CHAPTER III
CHAPTER IV
CHAPTER V
CHAPTER VI
CHAPTER VII
CHAPTER VIII
CHAPTER IX
CHAPTER X
CHAPTER XI
CHAPTER XII
CHAPTER XIII
CHAPTER XIV
CHAPTER XV
PREFACE
The
very friendly reception given to my previous book on the Inns and
Taverns of Pickwick has encouraged me to pursue the subject through
the other novels and writings of Dickens, and to compile the present
volume.I
do not claim that it is encyclopædic in the sense that it will be
found to supply a complete index to every inn mentioned in the
novelist’s books. Many a reader will recall, I expect, a certain
inn in his favourite story which has been overlooked; but, while my
chief aim has been to deal with the famous and prominent ones, I have
not ignored the minor ones which, in many cases, are also the most
alluring, and often play an important part in the story.The
plan has been to take the long novels in something approximating to
chronological order, followed by the shorter stories and sketches;
and, where an inn is mentioned in more than one book, to deal with it
fully in the chapter devoted to the story in which it was first
alluded to.Inns
associated with the novelist’s own life find no place in this
volume, unless they have association also with his books.In
such a volume as this it is obviously necessary to quote freely from
Dickens’s books, but, when one recalls the young person’s comment
on lectures about Dickens that “she always loved them because of
the quotations,” no apology or excuse is needed here.I
am greatly indebted to my friends T. W. Tyrrell and Charles G. Harper
for much valuable advice and assistance in my task. The former has
kindly loaned me prints from his unique collection of topographical
photographs, and has also given me the advantage of his expert
knowledge of the subject.How
much I owe to the latter goes without saying. No one can write of old
inns, old coaches, or old coaching roads without acknowledging
indebtedness to the score of books standing in Mr. Harper’s name,
which are rich mines for any student of the subject quarrying for
facts. He has not only permitted me to dig in his mines, but has
allowed also the use of many of his charming drawings.Acknowledgment
is also made to Messrs. A. & C. Black, Messrs. Methuen & Co.,
and the proprietors of the Cheshire Cheese for the use of blocks on
pages 24, 99 and 180 respectively.B.
W. MATZ.
CHAPTER I
Dickens
and InnsIn
these days when life is, for the most part, and for most of us, a
wearying process of bustle and “business,” it is comforting as
well as pleasant to reflect that the old coaching inn still remains
in all its quiet grandeur and the noble dignity which quaint customs
and unbroken centuries of tradition have given to it. For a brief
period in our recent history, it seemed that even so great a British
institution as the old English inn, and its first cousin the tavern,
were doomed to pass away. Indeed, the invention of railways, followed
by the almost automatic suspension of the coach as a means of
locomotion, did succeed actually in closing down many of them. But
the subsequent invention of the motor-car reopened England’s
highways and by-ways so that to-day there are unmistakable
indications that the old English inn is once more acquiring that
atmosphere of friendly hospitality and utility with which it was
endowed in the past, and which is so faithfully reflected in every
book of Dickens.No
one can really believe that the palatial and gilded hotels that
sprang up in the place of scores of the old coaching inns possessed
the same snug cheerfulness, the same appeal to the traveller, as did
the old hostelries of the coaching era. To-day, this is being
realised more and more, and when the time comes, as we are told is
not far off, when everyone will have his own motor-car, mine host of
every wayside inn and county town hostelry will once again become the
prominent figure that Dickens made him. The real romance of the
coaching era may never return. Perhaps we have become too
matter-of-fact for that. But something approximating to the spirit
and glamour of those days is possible still for those who are content
to undertake a motor journey minus the feverish ambition for breaking
speed records. In many an old-world English village stands an
old-world English inn, and when that hour before sunset arrives that
all travellers of the open road know—the moment when a luxurious
and healthy weariness overcomes us—ah, well, be sure the right sort
of inn awaits you if you deserve such good fortune, and, when the
time comes to fill pipes and sit at ease before a blazing log-fire,
what better subject for your dreams will you find than the glowing
pages of a Dickens book?In
them you get not only the romance and the glamour of the journey from
place to place, but also descriptive pictures of the various inns, of
their picturesque outward appearances, of their interior comfort and
customs, of their glorious and luscious array of wholesome food and
wine, to say nothing of the wonderful description of the happy
company assembled there, all told with that incomparable charm and
grace and good humour of a writer of genius.Dickens
not only knew how to describe an inn and its comforts (and its
discomforts, too, sometimes), but he seemed to revel in doing so, and
became filled with delight when he was one of the guests within its
walls.He
seems to have shared Dr. Johnson’s view that there was no private
house in which people could enjoy themselves so well as at a good
tavern, where there was general freedom from anxiety, and where you
were sure of a welcome; and to agree with him that there is nothing
as yet contrived by man by which so much happiness is produced as in
a good tavern or inn.His
books are full of the truth of this, and provide many such happy
occasions when, after a cold coach drive, the hospitable host
conducts the passengers to a large room made cosy with a roaring
fire, and drawn curtains, and presenting an inviting spread of the
good things of life, and a plentiful supply of the best wines or a
bowl of steaming punch, for the jovial company. And the coach journey
which brings one to these inns! Is there any described with so much
exhilaration to be found elsewhere? Take the coach ride of Nicholas
Nickleby along the Great North Road to his destination in Yorkshire.
Here is reflected the real spirit of old-time travelling which brings
us in touch with the old customs of the coaching age in a manner that
no historian could possibly convey so realistically. Read again Tom
Pinch’s ride to London. We not only encounter old inns and old
houses with their cherished memories, their old rooms, each with its
own romantic atmosphere and a tale to tell, but we traverse
picturesque by-ways and highways, which in themselves recall the past
as well as reveal unchanging scenes of glorious nature; we can
experience these feelings to-day in a way our fathers could not. The
railroad, for a spell, made this impossible. To-day the road has come
into its own again, and the motor-car brings back to us the glory of
the road, the pleasure of the inn, and the enjoyment of the wonderful
country which is England.There
seems to have been a positive allurement about an inn or tavern for
Dickens which he could not resist. He lingered over the most decrepit
and lowly public-house, such as the dirty Three Cripples, the resort
of Bill Sikes, as he did over the sumptuous Pavilion Hotel at
Folkestone. A wayside inn was as real a joy to him in its modest way
as was the chief coaching hotel in a country town with its studied
comfort.When
travelling about the country himself with his friends, some comment
or pen-picture of the inn they stayed at creeps into his letters, as
it would seem, by instinct. Even in his unpublished diary we see
noted items about delightfully beautiful drives, coach offices,
stage-coaches, and excellent inns. And, when he and Wilkie Collins
went for their idle tour, it resolved itself into visiting the inns
and coast corners in out-of-the-way places.His
knowledge of inns was stupendous. In that Christmas story, “The
Holly Tree,” there are scores of them recalled, each recollection
no doubt reminiscent of experiences and association.One
gets a gleam of the joy he experiences at such times in the extract
from a letter to an American friend, in 1842, after he had gone for a
trip into Cornwall with some bright and merry companions:
“If
you could but have seen one gleam of the bright fires by which we sat
at night in the big rooms of the ancient inns, or smelt but one steam
of the hot punch which came in every evening in a huge broad china
bowl!”But
instances could be multiplied.Dickens
saw something different in every inn, and succeeded in conveying it
to the reader. There were no two inns alike to him. Each had its own
tale to tell, its own individuality to reveal, its own atmosphere and
fare to present, whatever its grade or social environment. As for an
inn sign, it transported him into his most whimsical and pleasant of
moods.In
the following pages an attempt has been made to gather together the
material from his books which shows how Dickens delighted in
everything appertaining to inns, and how he extracted from
association with them all that glow of sentiment and joy which
permeated their atmosphere in the old days, leaving their pictures in
glowing words for all time.There
is nothing so calculated to make a place famous as mention of it in a
classic story. It may have already had a past history by association
with notable names and events, which gave it prominence in our annals
for a time; but in the case of a building, when it is demolished, it
soon passes out of memory. If, however, Dickens has drawn a
pen-picture of it, or, in the case of an old inn, has used it for a
scene in one of his books, it can never be forgotten; even when razed
to the ground its fame survives, and the site becomes a Dickens
landmark.
CHAPTER II
Oliver
TwistTHE
RED LION, BARNET—THE ANGEL, ISLINGTON—THE COACH AND HORSES,
ISLEWORTH—THE THREE CRIPPLES—THE GEORGE INN—THE EIGHT BELLS,
HATFIELDThere
are not many inns that can be identified in
Oliver Twist, and
those that can play very little part in the enactment of the story,
or have any notable history to relate in regard to them. The first
one to attract attention is that at Barnet, where the Artful Dodger
took Oliver Twist for breakfast on the morning they encountered each
other on the latter’s tramp to London.
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!
Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!