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- Herausgeber: Crowood
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
A truly in-depth look at how to fish for carp written by the 1996 World Carp Cup Champions, Discover Carp Fishing, is packed with information and advice on how to tackle even the most cunning of carp. Topics include: a detailed description of the carp itself and how to care for the species; best tackle to use; tactical considerations such as casting, plumbing and locating fish; different baits, including making your own boilie recipes, and baiting strategies; rigs and knots; river carping, big fish hunting and match fishing for carp. A superbly illustrated book, an encyclopaedia of carp fishing and the only guide the carp angler needs - you can't fail to learn from it!
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Seitenzahl: 438
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2012
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Discover Carp Fishing
Copyright
First published in 2002 by The Crowood Press Ltd, Ramsbury, Marlborough, Wiltshire, SN8 2HR
www.crowood.com
This e-book edition first published in 2012
© Simon Crow & Rob Hughes 2002
All rights reserved. This e-book is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of this text may be a direct infringement of the author’s and publisher’s rights, and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly.
ISBN 978 1 84797 474 7
Line illustrations by Helen Crow and Carp Fishing News Ltd.
Photographs by the authors and contributors.
Dedication For Cath and my beautiful daughter Elly.Rob
For my gorgeous girls Bethany and Sharna.Simon
CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This book would never have been completed without the efforts of many of our friends and family. First and foremost, our thanks must go to Crowy’s wife, Helen, for her design and layout skills. The book looks fabulous and this is due to her work and efforts alone. Thanks also to Kev Clifford at Carp Fishing News Ltd for allowing us to use his computers at times of need. Thanks to Cath, simply for being so understanding of Rob’s work commitments, and to both of our families for helping us wherever they have: especially the little ones – Bethany, Sharna and Elly. Oh, let’s not forget Digby, Rob’s dog! Thanks to the anglers who have inspired us over the years. Especially to Tim and Hutchy who are both true legends of our sport. Thanks to Briggsy just for being such a superb mate, and to Martin and Gilly down in South Africa who are the biggest pair of plonkers going (only joking lads!). Lastly, thanks to everyone who’s helped us along the way especially Jon ‘Shoes’ Jones and Derek Fell. We owe you all a beer. And guess what? For once Crowy’s paying!
INTRODUCTION
As we write this, it is almost five years since we released our first book to the British market – Strategic Carp Fishing, another of Crowood’s titles under the carp fishing banner. Since then, the sport has changed a great deal and consequently so has our approach to fishing. Strategic Carp Fishing was a rather technical book more suited to the experienced carper. Although there is some overlap with this title, we like to think this is at the opposite end of the spectrum and has an updated feel to it. Discover Carp Fishing is, as the title suggests, basically a book for the newcomer to the sport. We’ve tried to be as thorough as possible in the design of the chapters, trying to include as much as we think is relevant to the beginner. At the same time, we’ve also tried to exclude the sort of advice that we think may lose you along the way. There are many books about carp fishing. There are also many videos and other media sources available today, but many of these, we feel, don’t get down to the ‘grass-roots’ level we are trying to achieve with this title. In today’s carp fishing world, we are both still considered young anglers. We like to think that we have benefited from working our way through the trade because this has given us the privileged position of having been at both ends of the scale. There is nothing that will ever replace the all-important ‘experience it for yourself’ lessons, but we know that this book will teach newcomers some of the valuable lessons necessary to achieve those target dreams. The book was originally published for the French market in 1999 and has since, we are proud to say, been applauded by many anglers the world over. We are proud that The Crowood Press has recognized this too, and that you have decided to delve into its depths for some carp-catching tips. We just hope that we can provide you with the goods you are after. We’re confident that we can, but at the end of the day, just remember the most valuable piece of advice we can offer – like waters, all angling situations differ. There are no hard and fast rules to catching carp. The angler has to think for him/herself, he/she has to work for him/herself and only then will the rewards be there for the taking. Whatever your dreams are when it comes to catching carp, make sure that you enjoy yourselves along the way. We certainly have!
Simon Crow & Rob Hughes
1
KNOW YOUR QUARRY
In our minds, one of the topics most overlooked by modern-day carp anglers is knowledge of the species they are angling for. It’s all well and good possessing a developed mind for bait, rigs, and tackle, but fundamentally, the angler will fail in many ways if he doesn’t fully understand the target fish. A fish is not just a fish, as all will differ in many ways. This chapter seeks to address some of the important characteristics of the carp and how it survives in its favoured habitat of the freshwater rivers and stillwaters. Use the information wisely to plan your tactics for your chosen venue. Before we look at the fish themselves, however, it is important to know a little about the world in which they live. Remember that freshwater fish have a very simple existence in that all they require for a happy life is food, oxygen and a mate with whom to reproduce.
The freshwater food cycle.
SIMPLE FRESHWATER BIOLOGY
Many of you will have heard of the food chain in past biology classes at school, but if you were anything like us, you will have spent most of the lesson time daydreaming of being out on the banks instead of inside a stuffy classroom. Basically, the food chain is the name given to the way superior animals feed upon lesser animals lower down the chain. Man is said to be at the top of the food chain, but each and every link is important as, if one were missing, a natural balance would not be reached so animals higher up the chain would suffer. So where does the animal at the bottom of the chain get its food? The answer to this question is that light and heat energy from the sun together with various chemicals, such as phosphates and nitrates in the water, create the part of the chain known as photosynthesis, which allows plants to grow. Once plant life is established, animals will also be able to survive. The carp, in common with all other fish, takes oxygen from the water through its gills in order to breath. The gills are situated just behind the head of the fish and are protected by bony plates called gill covers. The fish breathes by taking water into its mouth with its gill covers closed. Then it closes its mouth, opens its gill covers and raises the floor of the mouth, forcing water out over the gills. The gills themselves contain very fine blood vessels which allow oxygen to pass through their outer membrane and into the blood stream. As an illustration of how effective this system is, consider that the air we breathe has an oxygen content of approximately 21 per cent, whereas water contains only 0.001 per cent oxygen at 8°C. Photosynthesis is another word you may recall from biology lessons. Basically, this is the process whereby green plants take in carbon dioxide and sunlight and produce simple sugars, releasing oxygen into the water in the process. This is obviously useful to know, as it is only during the daylight hours that the green plants are oxygenating the water. At night the opposite is the case, with the plants taking oxygen out of the water and releasing carbon dioxide back in. Furthermore, the water temperature also makes a difference to the amount of oxygen it contains – the warmer the water, the lower the dissolved oxygen content. So what does all of this mean? Well, we know that carp require a certain amount of oxygen to survive and we also know that oxygen gets into the water via a number of different ways (wind action, pressure changes, etc), but we can also draw the conclusion that, at certain times of the year (for example summertime), certain parts of the lake will have more dissolved oxygen than others. The shallows, where the water is warmer, will have less dissolved oxygen than the cooler parts of the lake. Also, the weed beds at night will be taking oxygen out of the water and replacing it with carbon dioxide. The shallow margins, especially those with reedbeds and weed, may therefore become depleted of oxygen during a warm summer night, so fishing in these areas during this time may not be productive. It is vitally important to note here that if you intend to sack a fish for the night in summer, from a fish welfare point of view, it must be away from weed and reedbeds in a reasonable depth of water. In the daytime, it is best to sack fish in the shade if possible, but really there should be no need to sack a fish during the day.
A carp illustrating the body conformation of the wild carp.
THE CARP FAMILY
Background
Although a very popular sporting fish, the carp accounts for a huge percentage of the annual aquaculture production around the world. The carp is a native of the Caspian Sea and its distribution is widely associated with the Romans. It is a hardy fish, and tolerant of a wide variety of environmental conditions – it can survive pH levels as low as 5 and as high as 10. It is classed as a warm-water fish and begins feeding reasonably well at a water temperature of 10°C, with its optimum growth occurring at around 25°C. Cyprinus carpio is found in five main genetic varieties, namely the wild, common, mirror, linear and leather carp.
Wild Carp
The wild carp is the original form of carp and its distribution around the world can be traced back thousands of years. All of the carp mentioned below are mutations of this fish and have evolved through the continued cross-breeding practices of fish farmers. The wild carp is very long and streamlined in appearance and very rarely grows above the weight of 10lb. It is distinguished by its slender flanks and the lack of a ‘hump’ towards the top of the head. The fish is stronger, possesses 20 per cent more red blood cells and has a higher blood sugar level than the domesticated carp. Although originally widely distributed, the fish is not commonly found in our waters today.
Simon with a Horseshoe Lake common of 27¾lb.
Common Carp
The common carp, as we know it, is the nearest descendant of the wild carp. Fundamentally speaking, the common carp is genetically different to the ‘wildie’ through the possession of an inherited recessive trait connected to growth. When compared with the mirror, leather and linear types of carp, depending on the environment it is subjected to, the common carp has been scientifically proven to have the best growth rate (rate meaning increase and not potential size). All of the other types are mutations of the common and this is the main reason why most common carp live longer, are hardier and have very few deformities when compared with the others.
Gilbert Foxcroft with a stunning South African mirror.
Mirror Carp
The mirror carp was the first mutation of the common carp and its formation is related to two alternative forms of genes, known as the ‘S’ and the ‘N’ alleles. Both alleles are paired and may possess a major and a minor version (the minor is recessive). The genetic term for the mirror carp is ‘ssnn’ (all minor). The actions of the ‘s’ (minor) and the ‘N’ (major) genes in carp have an effect on a wide scope of traits besides scaling and this is the reason why the mirror carp often has fewer soft rays in the dorsal, ventral and pelvic fins than the common and wild carp. As with all carp, the mirror possesses a number of other genes which account for the fish’s body length, mouth positioning, scale pattern and so on, and this is where the terms ‘race’ and ‘strain’ have become widely intertwined. Certain mirror carp have been scientifically proven to be capable of attaining higher weights than commons, leathers and linears, and once again, this is related to genetics.
Christian Finkelde with a French leather carp.
Leather Carp
If you look very carefully at the picture of the leather carp it possesses a few scales and some people may think this makes it a mirror carp. Scientifically, however, a leather carp can possess a few scales, with the principal difference being that the dorsal row of scales is either absent or, if it is present, it is not continuous, showing breaks. Scales are small and absent altogether from the head up to the start of the dorsal fin. Leathers have reduced growth when compared with the commons and mirrors because they have fewer red blood cells. This means the fish also requires a higher volume of oxygen to fill itself up when feeding. The true leather carp is not as hardy as the other varieties and, as well as having fewer dorsal spines than the other types, it frequently shows genetic kink/deformities in its fins.
The classic linear scaling.
Linear Carp
True linear carp have a single row of scales along the lateral line – any variance to this signifies another genetic classification of carp. Like leather carp, linears have restricted maximum growth potential. Generally, both types also grow more slowly than the mirrors and commons (when from the same strain). Another classic feature of the linear and leather carp is their more intensive fat metabolism. Fat amasses more quickly in both types during the summer time and is also utilized in greater amounts during the winter. The delayed growth of the linear and leather carps is often related to the reduced amount of gill organs/rakers in the fish as well as the decreased number of pharyngeal teeth they possess – both types have two rows (sometimes only one) compared with the three rows of the common and mirror types.
More food please!
THE CARP’S EXTERNAL FEATURES
Fins
The carp possesses a number of fins to help it to yaw, pitch, or roll. There are two sets of paired fins known as the pectoral and pelvic fins, whilst all others are singular. Both paired sets assist with vertical and horizontal control, whilst the dorsal and anal fins help with balance. The tail fin is the most important fin of a fish as this helps with sudden bursts of speed so it can avoid danger and thus survive within the aquatic environment. However, a carp can survive without the use of its fins, and it is not uncommon to come across healthy fish that do not possess a full set.
Olfactory Senses
Situated on the dorsal surface of the snout are the olfactory sensors (the nose). The nostril opening is double, and the water enters via the anterior opening and leaves via the posterior opening; the flow of currents is generated by the swimming action of the fish. Inside the organ there are millions of tiny hairs that assist with chemoreception. There is very little scientific data about chemoreception in king carp, but in the case of the goldfish (Carassius auratus), a close relative, recordings of activity carried out by electro-olfactograms show that the fish can detect four definite olfactory stimulants: bile salts, steroids amino acids and prostaglandins. Amino acids will function as feeding stimulants, whereas prostaglandins and steroids will act as sex pheromones in the breeding season. Chemoreception in king carp is thought to be very similar to the goldfish.
The Gustatory System
The gustatory system is basically the taste organ of the fish. Within carp, the mouth is said to be the main gustatory organ. The main taste buds known as the palatal organ, are located in the roof of the mouth. However, the lips, barbels, gill rakers and pectoral fins all carry taste buds of some sort. The gustatory organ is sensitive to sour, sweet, saline and savoury substances, and is incredibly sensitive compared to that of the human. There is a limited gustatory response to amino acids or nucleotides in carp, but in particular orders both can be excellent feeding stimulants.
The Eyes
The carp’s eyes are located on either side of the head to give an excellent field of vision; they are very sensitive to movement. However, they do not offer the fish a good binocular vision. The carp’s eye operates very much like a camera, and rays of light are focused onto the retina by the lens. According to scientists, fish see within an angle of 97.6 degrees and can see in a circular window when looking above the water. Outside the window, images are reflected off the water surface onto the bottom, which is why fish have difficulty viewing items on the bottom during strong winds. Carp are thought to possess photoreceptors which have enhanced sensitivity to capture photons (solar radiation components) at low light levels, but in the main, they are said to have trichromatic vision with visual pigments absorption peaks of approximately 455nm (blue), 530nm (green), and 625nm (red) – this means that the fish sees better in depths of less than 25m. Deeper than this, the carp is thought to see in the blue light spectrum, although biotic and abiotic factors can influence this.
Scientists believe that a carp sees outside the water within an angle of 97.6 degrees (known as the window). Items on the bottom are viewed by reflection off the surface outside of the angle. Sight is much less precise when a ripple is on the water.
Mechanoreceptors
All carp possess an acoustic-lateralis system. The mechanoreceptors are located in this system, comprising the ear and lateral line, which work in co-ordination with one another. The neuromast is the basic mechanoreceptor and this consists of a group of sensory hair cells which help the fish to locate water movements and direction, as well as to co-ordinate balance. It basically operates by causing vibrations in the fish which allow it to detect sound as well as potential dangers – such as those projected by outboard motors or echo sounders. Although the ears of carp are hidden, the lateral line is often very distinct on mirrors, leathers and linear carp.
Scales
The carp’s skin comprises two different layers – an inner (dermis) and an outer (epidermis). All scales grow from within the inner layer and are protected by a layer of mucus. Both layers act as major defences for the carp against infection. It is possible for fish to lose scales naturally or through bad handling by anglers, and they will normally grow back. However, anglers should try to minimize any possible damage by wetting weighing equipment prior to use and having a bottle of antiseptic solution, such as Klin-ik, handy.
THE CARP’S INTERNAL FEATURES
The Skeletal Structure
The carp is a member of the teleosts, a sub-group of the bony fish, and it possesses a skeletal structure throughout its whole body. The most obvious parts of the internal skeleton are the dorsal and central vertebrae, and it is to the latter of these that some of the most important internal organs are attached. Surrounding the internal organs are ribs; very often, protruding ribs on the sides of the fish are incorrectly claimed to have been caused by anglers, when in actual fact most are genetically evolved. Nevertheless, the shape of the skeletal structure may be down to any one of a number of reasons (very often you will come across fish that have developed deformities at the egg-hatching stage).
The Swim Bladder
Aside from the use of the fins, carp, and indeed all bony fish, can regulate their depth in the water column by using their swim bladder. The swim bladder is basically a gas-filled sack above the intestine. It helps the fish to reduce the amount of energy it expends, and is filled with air from the surface in the first few weeks of the fish’s life (known as the swim-up stage). Carp have been known to survive perfectly well without the assistance of the swim bladder.
The skeletal structure of the carp with the dorsal and central vertebrae clearly visible.
The Kidney
The carp has a number of internal organs to help it to survive in the aquatic environment. It is a cold-blooded creature, so its internal temperature is always in balance with that of the surrounding water. Internally, the carp’s bodily fluids contain large amounts of salt, so the kidney, its most vital organ, is continually flushing out water which has travelled via osmosis into the fish. If you make your own boiled baits always watch the amount of salt you use – any exertion of the carp’s kidney may lead to possible damage, resulting in the fish swelling or bursting through taking in too much water.
The Heart
The carp’s heart lies just below the gill cover (known as the operculum) and pumps blood around the body. The blood is pumped in a single circulation and absorbs oxygen from the water in the gills. Here, the blood passes through capillaries (fine blood cells) which have a very thin wall. As the water is drawn over the gill capillaries, oxygen is drawn from the water. Smaller fish breathe (so to speak) at a quicker rate than larger fish, and this is one reason why the smaller inhabitants of a water are normally the first to be lost during times of pollution.
The Intestine
The carp does not have a stomach but instead has a very long intestine, where its food is broken down by enzymes. The carp’s diet is very varied (it is omnivorous) so the intestine needs to cope with both meat and weed products. Weed generally requires more mastication by the fish and takes longer to digest (due to the large number of cells it possesses), and this is why the intestine is so long. Within the intestine, which starts directly behind the oesophagus, powerful digestive juices assist with the passage of food. The reaction caused by digestion is usually alkaline (pH 7–7.7); recent experiments have shown that the pH level fluctuates depending on the temperature of the water. Pepsin (an essential proteindigesting enzyme) is not found naturally in the carp, but has to be gained by the fish through its food sources.
The major organs of the carp.
The Central Nervous System
Decisions and movement are triggered by the central nervous system, which, in its simplest form, consists of sensory nerve paths, brain nerve paths and motor nerve paths (it is these pathways that are disrupted by electricity when electric fishing). The spinal cord runs along the back of the fish and is supported by the dorsal vertebral column, whilst the brain, which lies at the top of the head, is surrounded by the cranium box. Automatic responses in carp are governed by the memory division of the brain, and, simply put, this can be split into the two areas of interpretation and long-term memory. The latter of the two is said to be the most developed in fish; for example, carp have the basic intelligence to know that there will be a hookbait amongst a bed of free offerings, but they have difficulty in working out which one it is. Nevertheless, the carp can learn to modify its behaviour through experience, and this can be a very difficult area to crack for the carp man even on the easiest of waters.
FOOD AND FEEDING
All fish feed on food items by following a selection process. This is never changed in any way and a simple diagram outlines the main stages. In order to progress from phase 1 to phase 5, carp are required to utilize a number of different sensory organs, including the chemoreceptors, taste receptors, sight, mouth and the pharyngeal teeth. Studying the FSP shows that everything needs to fit into place within your overall angling strategy. Here we have provided a breakdown of tactical considerations in order of importance:
Bait attraction properties.Bait and rig positioning.Bait abundance.Rig appearance.Rig efficiency.Bait taste.A close-up on the pharyngeal teeth of the carp.
Feeding
The carp will sample most food items with its lips, which are equipped with minute receptors. If the item is found attractive, it will pass to the carp’s throat teeth before ingestion. The pharyngeal teeth are located behind the mouth proper and comprise between one and three rows of teeth, depending on the type of carp. These will crush food items with the assistance of a pad in the palate of the mouth, and these do wear out with time and excessive use. Besides the lips and teeth, the carp also possesses a bronchial system which filters out minute particles from the water (comprised of branchiospines, branchial arches and bronchial apertures). Generally speaking, small young fish have a finer and better developed bronchial system than larger carp, but both are capable of feeding on suspended particles like branchiopods (such as Daphnia hyalina, Simocephalus vetalus, and so on), ostracods (such as Cyprus), and copepods (for example Cyclops, Diaptomus castor).
Seasonal Diet Variations
In the main, carp are bethivorous fish (that is, bottom feeders), but they can feed at all levels of the water column when the need arises. The natural diet of carp will shift with seasonal variations depending on a number of important factors – that is, some food items (such as chironomids) are profusely available in the spring, whilst others are more abundant in the cooler periods of the annual calendar (for example Asellus). Favouritism will also be another ruling factor here as well as water quality and type. The natural diet of carp is a difficult topic to address because it is site-specific, but generally speaking, it will range from minute particles such as water fleas (Copepoda) to larger items like molluscs (Gastropoda). Where anglers are present in large numbers, there is scientific evidence available to suggest that over 70 per cent of the carp’s diet may consist of artificial feed. It is our opinion that all carp, regardless of the venue, will feed on natural food items throughout the year. The only difference is that the percentage of artificials in the diet will vary from venue to venue depending on a wide range of influences such as angler numbers, stocking density, available habitat and so on. Nevertheless, during the calendar year, the natural food cycle (NFC) in all aquatic ecosystems undergoes a number of important changes that all carp anglers should be aware of if they wish to be successful time and time again. At the onset of winter much of the natural aquatic food stock decreases in one way or another. Cold fronts of high pressure cause water temperatures to plummet, and with this, the abundance and variety of natural food available to the fish also drops. In Europe the most distinct NFC fall normally occurs somewhere around the end of October/early November but, such is the unreliability of the weather, it can be earlier or later than this (depending on where you live). The supply of natural food in water bodies may be altered by any one of a number of factors at any time (for example, freak weather conditions, pollution, stocking or introductions), but, generally speaking, it falls towards its lowest level in December/January. Scientific studies and field experiments show that certain natural food items that carp in most waters become dependent on for healthy living, such as Chironomus (a large family of midge larvae otherwise known as bloodworm), molluscs and crustaceans, fall to their lowest levels towards the beginning of winter and don’t begin to multiply until the water temperature starts to rise in the early part of spring. Many other natural foods of fish display a similar cycle, and the carp will recognize this and feed selectively on its favourite or most readily available item throughout the year. Basically, as one particular food item begins to decrease, the carp will cleverly shift its diet towards another source (for example, in August it may be mollusc, whilst in September it may be the Chironomus). The table below shows a typical breakdown of the seasonal variation in natural carp diet during a twelve-month period. This information was gained from a study carried out on three large lakes in southeastern France. Although a similar experiment carried out at your local lake may well yield different results, it nevertheless gives us something to work off. To obtain the information, fish were taken from the lakes continually throughout the year. Once taken from the waters, the fish were killed immediately and their stomachs sampled to identify what they had been feeding on. To cut a long and potentially boring story short, the result was that the diet of the carp alters with the availability of food items within the annual cycle. Towards the beginning of winter, the carp has very little natural food to turn to in order to fulfil its requirements, so anglers’ baits frequently become the main focus. With some fish this is normal as they have a preference for such items, but others, which are shy to anglers, do so only because they have no other option. Furthermore, being a cold-blooded creature, the carp needs to feed heavily at the start of winter to prepare for its dormant winter period. As a result, the late autumn months are one of the best periods of the year for carp fishing. The first signs of dropping water temperatures usually excite the carp into a big intensive feeding frenzy. Strong winds often assist here as they provide excellent feeding conditions by stirring up the bottom and oxygenating the water well, but at venues where the carp’s diet is mainly comprised of natural food, it is the decrease in its availability and the onset of the long cold winter months that chiefly explain why this is the best time of the year for angling – especially if you are using artificial baits, like the majority of carp anglers these days.
Seasonal diet variation in carp from three south-eastern French lakes in 1975 (figures expressed in percentages).
Single Sitting Satisfaction (SSS)
As the carp begins to fill itself up with food, oxygen demand is greater than when it started feeding on an empty stomach. During the summer, when oxygen levels in the water are lower, fish physically have difficulty filling themselves up to a maximum in one sitting (known as Single Sitting Satisfaction). Leather carp are an excellent example here, as genetically they are different to commons, mirrors and linears in that they require greater levels of oxygen when feeding (they possess fewer red blood cells). Where low levels of oxygen are present in a water, leather carp cannot eat as much food in a single sitting as the other varieties and this is one reason why true leathers have restricted growth potential. Where SSS is not possible in the summer months in a water, all varieties of carp will more than likely feed regularly throughout the day in a little and often manner. In the winter, however, the higher levels of oxygen present in water bodies makes it increasingly possible for all varieties of carp to gain SSS, which may be reflected in the low number of repeat captures that occur in some fisheries during the cooler months.
Simon with one of two English thirties caught during below zero temperatures in a half-hour feeding spell.
Digestion
The carp does not have a stomach but digests its food in the intestine. This is an important matter in itself as the absence of a stomach means that the fish secretes acids or the enzymes responsible for gastric digestion. Furthermore, there is the loss of storage function. The intestine in a carp is fairly long (ratio of 2:3 when compared with its body length), and digestion is carried out by enzymes which are present in the intestinal wall and through the presence of gut microflora. The predominant protein-digesting enzyme is trypsin – an endopeptidase which requires residues from either lysine (amino acid) or arginine (amino acid) to assist with protein digestion. The passage of protein is also assisted by the alkaline conditions present in the carp’s intestine (approximately pH 7–7.7), but is inhibited by substances such as soya or zinc. Soya inhibits the action of trypsin and therefore the passage of food items within the intestine. Zinc, on the other hand, tends to activate trypsin but decrease assimilation for some reason not yet clearly understood by scientists.
A massive Romanian female carp of 70lb.
Growth
The genetic make-up of a carp and its available resources determine how big a fish will grow. The current accepted world record for a rod-caught king carp (Cyprinus carpio) is a reported 37kg (two fish of this weight), but it is very likely that the species will grow to above this size. There is a traditional saying amongst fish breeders that a ‘quality food source results in a quality fish’. Fed the correct diet in a relaxed environment, three-year-old carp can reach a weight of well over 5lb. The carp’s optimum growth rate is reached at approximately 25°C, with potential size decreasing progressively from 20°C, virtually ceasing at 5°C. Female carp usually show the greater sudden increases in weight, but these fish are often in a stressed state due to ovulation. It is the males that have the solid but steady growth potential, and it is these fish that often live the longest.
HABITAT
Carp can adapt to both relaxed and stressed river and lake environments. They are widely regarded as a territorial species, but within river networks it is not unusual for them to travel long distances to feed or spawn. The type of habitat a fish is subjected to usually dictates its physical characteristics. Very often fish in rivers become long and lean to accommodate the water currents, whereas in the lakes and stillwaters they are often fatter and deeper in body section. Habitat also has a huge influence on the growth potential of a carp, as its availability is very much associated with water quality and stocking densities, which in turn, are connected to available food.
2
MODERN CARP GEAR
The amount of tackle available to catch carp successfully is growing annually. There are now literally hundreds, if not thousands, of different companies in the market place advertising equipment for sale. This has both its good and bad points, but it is worth pointing out that one of the most difficult things for any newcomer to the sport is avoiding being drawn into buying everything that is financially possible. It is our experience that you do not need every single item of tackle, and a lot of the time you can get away with making some of the simpler items for yourself, thus saving more money.
Many of you may find yourselves lost amongst the large array of modern carp fishing tackle, and indeed many of you will find it a very tedious job deciding what tackle best suits your needs. Although the majority of tackle shops are excellent at advising you when purchasing the right tackle for your first steps in carp fishing, one cannot help thinking that in some cases beginners are seen as easy pickings for a good sale. In this chapter we take an in-depth look at the kind of tackle required for modern carp fishing, from the more complicated aspects such as rod choice right through to the technicalities of bait boats.
The components of the carp rod.
THE CARP ROD
Terminology
What is a carp rod? Fundamentally speaking, it is a tool used for playing a fish, but it also has the secondary function of casting a bait. Advancements in technology have delivered to today’s angler a vast range of carp rods. A simple browse through the adverts reveals a maze of pictures and words of how all are far superior to one another. Try not to lose yourself amongst such marketing hype, as it is a safe bet that many of those advertised are way above the price range you actually need to spend to fulfil your needs. Don’t be too disheartened by this, as we can assure you that the Rod Hutchinsons of the world all started with very basic tackle. Before we take a look at selecting a rod and its functions, we will begin with a brief glossary of terms:
Action Describes the performance of a carp rod with regard to its flexibility or stiffness.Blank Used to describe the carp rod before the reel fittings, rings and final varnish (known as the finish) are added.Butt end The thickest end of the rod (the handle).Tip end The thinnest end of the rod (the top eye).Test curve The weight needed to pull the tip end of the rod down till it is at right angles to the butt end. The heavier the weight needed, the stiffer the rod.Tip action or stiff rod A rod that is more flexible towards the tip end and better for casting long distances.Through action or soft rod A rod that is very flexible throughout and better for playing fish.
Construction
The Blank Most carp rods consist of two parts – the butt section (lower part) and the tip section (upper part). However, it is possible to purchase some that are divided into three or four parts (for storage purposes), and even ones that are telescopic. Two-part rods are usually the preferred option for general angling by most anglers as they are said to have less weaknesses in the blank than those with more sections. Wherever a section joins another, you will come across either a spigot or over-fit connection. Both types are suitable for carp rods, but we prefer the spigot fitting. Before purchasing a rod, always check this area for any damage as it is a sure thing that it will crack if it is not 100 per cent sound.
A carp rod can be made from a number of different materials, the most successful being cane, fibreglass and carbon fibre. A number of other materials can be added to these to aid with strength and to reduce thickness and weight. To minimize confusion we will stick to the simple terms listed above. As far as cost is concerned, fibreglass rods are the cheapest. Although you might think cane would be a very cheap material, rods made from it have recently become very few and far between and so the price of some cane rods has risen accordingly. Carbon fibre is a moderately cheap and extremely versatile material. Understandably it has dominated the carp rod field since its discovery, and is widely regarded as the best foundation for carp rod blanks.
A good carp rod will be made from a relatively thin blank, measuring from as little as just over half an inch (12mm) thick at the butt end and tapering down to the tip.
Good rod rings make all the difference.
Reel Fittings, Grips and Rod Rings
Once you have chosen your blank, you can start adding the reel fittings, grips and rings. The type and the positioning of these are just as important as the type and length of the blank itself. Always look to purchase a rod equipped with what is termed a screw-lock reel fitting (the part that holds the reel). Most modern carp rods have this type of fitting, but pay close attention to the standard of this area when purchasing a rod. The last thing you want to happen is for your reel to come loose when the all-important ‘take’ occurs. Our favourite reel fittings are those that have aluminium or stainless sleeves over the top, but to be honest, there are plenty of good makes available on the market. Those with metal sleeves not only perform well, but also enhance the attractiveness of the rod.
Moving onto handles and grips, these usually consist of cork or sponge (Duplon) attachments, and should be chosen to suit your personal preference. There is no real difference from an angling perspective between the two varieties other than that Duplon is soft, doesn’t become brittle with time and, unlike cork, won’t be nibbled by mice! It doesn’t really matter which type you choose, but do make sure that it provides you with enough grip when you decide to put the rod through its paces. Although it may sound obvious, it is worth stressing here that you should always pick up a rod and ensure that the positioning and distance between each grip feels comfortable. If the distance is too short or too long, your casting ability will be severely restricted. The same can be said for incorrect positioning, as this will make the rod feel unbalanced.
As far as the rings are concerned, carp rods usually have anything between six and ten rings. These come in a range of different sizes, with the largest at the butt section, tapering down to the smallest at the tip end. Rods designed for long-range casting have larger and fewer rings to help reduce friction, while soft through-action rods have more and smaller eyes to help with control when playing fish under the tip. The type, quality, and position of the rod rings is important for a number of reasons. Single-leg eyes are more suited to long-range casting as they can be positioned to allow a fluent pathway for the line, whilst the quality and make of the rings can also have an impact on the distance you cast and the risk of line damage occurring. For obvious reasons, incorrect positioning of the eyes can affect the performance of a rod in a big way, so always check the whipping and whether or not the location of the eyes provides a flowing pathway. Their distribution along the blank also needs careful consideration as the rod will not perform well when put through the test curve if the rings are incorrectly spaced. The rings should be spaced more widely towards the butt end of the rod, tapering down to the tip. There is no use in giving precise spacing distances for the rings, as not only is rod technology a complicated science, but the suggested distancing will differ depending on the type and make of the blank. If you wish to get that knowledge in-depth, may we suggest you consult a rod manufacturer like Alistair Bond.
Modern rods tend to have SIC (silicon carbide) rings because they reduce friction on the line and thus enhance casting. However, such rings add greatly to the price of the rod, so always consider the type of fishing you are going to be doing before you buy. We must point out, though, that SIC rings are a must if you tend to use braided lines, as the friction applied to the rings when playing a fish on this material is so great that it frequently cuts into and damages standard/ cheap rings.
Simon puts a through-action rod through its paces at Llyn-y-Gors.
Carp Rod Selection
Now that we have taken a brief look at what a carp rod comprises, we can finish off with a brief summary of what to look for and what to avoid when deciding to purchase. Remember that the carp rod is the angler’s main piece of kit and it will not come cheap.
The width of the handle should be such that you feel comfortable and in control of the rod.The reel seat should have a screw lock mechanism.A two-piece rod between 1½lb and 2lb in test curve is ideal for closerange casting (up to 70yd).A rod between 2lb and 2¾lb in test curve would be ideal for multirange casting.A rod 2¾lb and over in test curve would be ideal for casting at long range.Check rods for scratches and loose fittings, and examine the join to ensure it is a comfortable fit and has been made to suit.You do not need to buy matching pairs of rods; it won’t make you a better angler if all your rods are the same.Look out for second-hand rods that are in good condition, or discontinued ranges of rods.Choose a rod with a height and weight suited to your abilities, technique and physique; it may be a good idea to try to have a cast with one of your friends rods before you buy your own. Other than this, try to get a ‘feel’ for the rod and make sure that it is not too heavy, short, long, or uncomfortable.Don’t get drawn into buying the first rod you see.You do not need to buy top-of-the-range rods to be successful.We would always advise the complete novice to opt for a throughaction rod first in order to get the feel of a carp rod and its use. It is useless trying to start off with a stiff rod, as these are really designed for casting rather than playing fish.For the record, we both use 13ft 3½lb Rod Hutchinson Dream Maker rods for all of our fishing (apart from stalking in restricted areas), which in our opinion are the nearest you will get to the ultimate universal carp rod. They are excellent for both casting and playing fish at both short and extreme range, and believe it or not, we have heard plenty of people comment on how they have improved their fishing in several ways. The rod has a through-action blank built by master rod-builder Alister Bond. The rod can provide both sensitivity and power whenever necessary, and really does need to be used before the effect can be felt.
The only time we decide against the Dream Maker is when we have limited space, for instance when we are stalking fish in restricted areas. We both possess 6ft fibreglass rods that have been custom made for this type of fishing. These have a very through action so that they can cope with the powerful lunge of a carp hooked under the rod tip. They are also painted matt black so that the sun does not reflect off the blank and spook any fish.
Standard fixed-spool reel.
REELS
Before buying a reel, the first thing you should do is consider what you want it for. You may have read a lot about Shimano Big Pit Long Cast reels, but if you are only fishing a 2-acre lake where the margins are the most productive areas then the asking price may be a bit steep, especially if you can get away with something a lot cheaper and much more practical. The moral is, always buy the correct tools for the job. Reels are expensive; try to use a bit of foresight and consider where you will be fishing over the next few seasons before you buy. It would be a waste of your hard-earned cash to buy something that will do for now, but may be woefully inadequate in twelve months’ time. A good all-round reel is the best bet both practically and financially.
Not only should you consider what you want the reel for, you should also take into account the rod it will be matched to. We don’t mean looks here, we mean balance. A large-spooled big pit reel would be completely out of balance on an 11ft 1½lb test curve fibreglass rod – as indeed would a small baitrunner reel, such as a Shimano GT 5010, on a 13ft 3½lb test curve rod. The best way to make sure you don’t make a mistake is to buy your rod and reel at the same time, or, if you already have a satisfactory rod and just want to upgrade your reel, take the rod along with you to the tackle shop and ask them to attach it to the reel so you can check that you are happy with its feel. This can also save further disappointment if you get your new reel home only to find it won’t go into the rod’s fittings, which can happen.
Shimano’s excellent Baitrunner.
Terminology
Spool The part of the reel that holds the line.
Coned spool A spool where the front of the spool is narrower than the back to assist long-range casting.
Clutch/drag Tensioning mechanism on a reel which puts pressure on the spool to stop line being pulled from it.
Anti-reverse Switch/gear on the reel that stops the handle going backwards.
Bale arm The metal bar on the front of the reel that collects and lays the line when the handle is turned.
Standard Fixed-Spool Reels
These are a slightly bigger version of the average reel used by everyday coarse/match fishermen. They have an antireverse button on them to stop the reel handle from turning backwards and also a drag control known as the clutch. This allows line to be pulled from the reel without the bale arm being open, but the clutch has to be tightened up before reeling in. These reels are fine for standard, relatively close-in work such as stalking, but are somewhat outdated for modern style static carp fishing as well as tricky to come to terms with if you are a beginner. Although they are relatively cheap, we both prefer to opt for the baitrunner or big pit-type reel.
The Big Pit reel.
Baitrunners
These are almost identical in shape to fixed-spool reels, but have a mechanism on them which allows a fish to take line without the bale arm open – known as the baitrunner. This can be engaged immediately by the flick of a button or can be turned off by reeling in line or flicking a lever. Baitrunners have been designed for modern specimen hunting, and therefore some models are larger than the standard fixed-spool reels and much more suited to the carp angler. They are by far the most practical for all-round carp fishing, as, loaded with the correct line and matched with a decent rod, the larger models will allow the angler to cast in excess of 120yd. To boot, they are also suitable for soft rods and margin fishing.
Besides baitrunners, such reels are also commonly known as free-spool or bite ‘n’ run reels. Our preference is for the Shimano GT Baitrunner, which comes in a variety of sizes, but, as with most items of tackle these days, it isn’t exactly cheap. Don’t worry if you don’t have or can’t afford one of the purpose-designed Baitrunners, though, as a standard reel will do the trick just as well: they just aren’t quite so easy to use.
The correct way to fill a spool with line (left). Always fill right to the lip of the spool. Too much and line will spill off; too little will restrict the distance you can cast (right).
