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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
A hands-on, step-by-step guide to training dogs, regardless of breed, age, or personality
Wondering how you can get Fido to stop climbing up on the furniture? Hoping that your labradoodle will finally learn how to “sit” and “stay?”
In the fifth edition of Dog Training For Dummies, readers will benefit from a compilation of the best, most effective training methods for dogs of all ages, personalities, and breeds. Readers will learn basic training commands, different techniques for obedience training, breed-specific strategies for modifying behavior, and more.
The book explains how to housetrain your dog and changes and adjustments that can be made to create a happier home and environment for your dog. It also shows you how to address the most common problematic dog behaviors, like excessive barking when someone comes to your door.
Inside the book:
- Expert tips for properly socializing your dog to interact with other dogs and people of all ages
- Strategies for improving your dog walking abilities and training your dog for bedtime
- Recommendations for the best dog training and dog management equipment, including the latest tech
Perfect for all dog owners, Dog Training For Dummies covers the tips, tricks, strategies, and techniques you need to understand to make training your dog a rewarding and successful experience.
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Seitenzahl: 715
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025
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Dog Training For Dummies®
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Table of Contents
Cover
Table of Contents
Title Page
Copyright
Introduction
About This Book
Foolish Assumptions
Icons Used in This Book
Where to Go from Here
Part 1: Setting the Stage for Successful Training
Chapter 1: Dog Training: The Key to Your Dog’s Safety and Your Sanity
Understanding Why You’re Training Buddy: To Do Something or Not to Do Something
Identifying a Well-Trained Dog
Selecting a Training Model
Identifying Six Basic Commands Every Dog Needs to Know
Recognizing Factors That Influence Success
Oh, the Places You and Your Pooch Can Go: Beyond the Basics
An Exercise to Get You and Your Pooch Started
Chapter 2: Getting to Know Your Dog and How They Perceive the World
Determining What Motivates You and Your Dog
Being Aware of Your Dog’s Body Language
Recognizing Your Dog’s Instinctive Behaviors
Determining Your Dog’s Personality Profile
Deciding How You Want Buddy to Act
Chapter 3: Developing Training Savvy
Managing the Dog Within
Stressing the Effects of Stress
Managing Your Dog’s Environment
Understanding the “You” Factor
Chapter 4: Understanding the Vital Role That Nutrition and Health Play in Training
Finding the Right Food for Buddy
Understanding the Nutrients Your Dog Needs
Making Choices about How to Feed Buddy
Exploring Common Health Issues That Affect Behavior and Training
Chapter 5: Gearing Up for Training Success
Choosing the Right Training Leash and Collar
Readying a Reward: Treats Are Your Training Buddies
Considering Other Equipment You Can Use
Part 2: Performing Puppy Preliminaries
Chapter 6: Starting on the Right Foot with your New Puppy or Dog — Planning and Preparing
Preparing for Puppy’s Arrival
Bringing Puppy Home — Now What?
Starting Buddy’s Education
Solving Perplexing Puppy Problems
Chapter 7: Surviving Your Puppy’s Critical Growth Periods
Understanding Your Puppy’s Early Development
The Terrible Twos: Managing the Adolescent from 4 Months to 2 Years
Spaying or Neutering to Help with Behavior and Training
Chapter 8: The Ins and Outs of Crate Training and Housetraining
Helping Buddy Get Used to Their Crate
Training a Dog to Eliminate Outside
Establishing a Regular Feeding and Elimination Schedule
Designating a Regular Toilet Area
When Accidents Happen — Knowing What to Do
Using an Exercise Pen for Housetraining
Part 3: Tackling Training Basics
Chapter 9: Focusing on Some Basic Training Commands
Training for Attention: Praise Versus Petting
Practicing Name Recognition or the Name Game
Teaching Your Dog the Touch Command
Greeting and Sitting with the Hello Command
Leave It: Getting Your Dog to Leave Stuff Alone
Chapter 10: Coming and Going: Two Essential Commands to Teach
Understanding the Importance of Leadership: Okay Is the Word
Teaching Your Dog to Come When Called
Training Your Dog to Handle Distractions
Focusing on the Opposite of Come — Go
Get on the Same Page: You and Buddy May Not Be Understanding the Same Thing
Chapter 11: Mastering Some Fundamentals: Sit, Down, and Stay
Understanding Why Sit Is So Important
Introducing Down and Its Commands
Training Your Dog Sit and Down Sequentially
Warming Up with the Long-Down Exercise
Staying in Place: Sit-Stay and Down-Stay
Chapter 12: Going for a Pleasant Walk
Using the Right Leash and Collar When Walking Your Dog
Taking a Pleasure Walk with Your Dog
Teaching Buddy How to Heel at Your Side
Adding Distractions
Chapter 13: Going to Bed and All of Its Practical Uses
Selecting a Bed for Your Dog
Deciding When and How You Want to Use the Command
Training Buddy the Go to Your Bed Command
Chapter 14: Getting In, Out, On, and Off and Mastering Door and Stairs Manners
Getting In and Out
Getting On and Off
Training Threshold Door Manners
Teaching Stairs Manners
Part 4: Taking Training to the Next Level
Chapter 15: Dealing with Common Doggie Don’ts
Preventing Bad Habits — The Five General Prescriptions for Good Behavior
Handling Your Dog’s Objectionable Behavior
Teaching Buddy to Keep All Four on the Floor
Putting an End to Counter Surfing — Leave It
Quieting the Incessant Barker
Contending with Chewing — The Nonfood Variety
Dealing with a Digger
Managing Marking Behavior
Chapter 16: Retrieving: Time to Fetch
Introducing the Common Retrieving Commands to Your Natural Retriever
Explaining the Basics of Retrieving
Chapter 17: Trick Training for Fun and Bonding
Shaking Hands and Giving a High Five
Finding the Pea under the Right Cup
Hiding in a Box
Picking a Hand
Playing Shy
Rolling Over
Playing Dead
Jumping through a Hoop
Unrolling the Red Carpet, or Any Carpet Runner
Taking a Bow
Part 5: Handling Special Situations
Chapter 18: Addressing Aggression
Understanding Aggression
Managing a Dog’s Aggression — Prey, Pack, Defense Drives
Coping with Aggression around the Food Bowl
Dealing with Fear-Biters
Handling Aggression in Different Circumstances
Chapter 19: Helping Buddy Handle Special Situations
Reacting to Loud Noises and Thunder
Coping with Separation Anxiety
Soiling the House
Dribbling and Submissive Wetting
Taking Buddy on the Road
Going to Doggie Day care
Minding Your Manners at the Dog Park
Keeping Your Canine Calm at the Vet’s Office
Being Patient with the Rescue Dog
Chapter 20: Keeping Your Senior Dog Young: Teaching an Old Dog New Tricks
Old Gray Muzzle: Exploring the Signs of Aging in Dog Years
Teaching Exercises to Keep Buddy’s Mind and Body Sharp
Taking Care of Your Older Dog’s Health and Nutrition Needs
Keeping Up with Grooming
Bringing Home a Puppy to Help Rejuvenate Buddy
Looking Into Dog Beds, Ramps, Wheelchairs, and Carts
Chapter 21: Saying Goodbye: Losing Your Old Friend
An Empty Collar
Deciding When the Right Time Is to Say Goodbye
Where to Look for Your Next Dog
Part 6: The Part of Tens
Chapter 22: Ten Reasons Dogs Do What They Do
Why Do Dogs Insist on Jumping on People?
Why Do Dogs Sniff Parts of Your Anatomy That You’d Prefer They Didn’t?
Why Do Male Dogs Lift Their Legs So Often?
Why Do Dogs Mount Each Other?
Why Do Dogs Like to Chase Things?
Why Do Dogs Roll in Disgusting Things?
Why Do Dogs Eat Weeds or Grass?
Why Do Dogs Hump Humans’ Legs?
Why Do Dogs Scoot on Their Rear Ends?
Why Do Dogs Circle Before Lying Down?
Chapter 23: Ten Training Traps and How to Avoid Them
Procrastinating on Basic Training
Buying into Attention-Seeking Behavior
Forgetting to Release Your Dog from a Stay
Eliminating Rewards Too Soon
Using Your Dog’s Name as a Command
Having to Repeat Commands Away from Home
Punishing Your Dog When They Come to You
Running after Your Dog
Expecting Too Much Too Quickly
Ignoring the Principle of Consistency
Index
About the Authors
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
List of Tables
Chapter 2
TABLE 2-1 Comparing Motivation of People and Dogs
TABLE 2-2 Scoring the Profile
Chapter 5
TABLE 5-1 Pros and Cons of Nylon Snap-Around Collars
TABLE 5-2 Pros and Cons of Pinch Collars
TABLE 5-3 Pros and Cons of the Head Halter
List of Illustrations
Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: Well-trained dogs.
FIGURE 1-2: The difference between training to do something and training to sto...
FIGURE 1-3: Teaching your dog the Stay command as a part of feeding them.
Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: Dogs showing the chase, a typical prey-drive behavior.
FIGURE 2-2: A dog enjoying physical contact with a person, a typical pack-drive...
FIGURE 2-3: A dog growling, a typical fight behavior.
FIGURE 2-4: Your dog’s Profile at a Glance.
FIGURE 2-5: How a dog can go between any drive as they choose.
FIGURE 2-6: Switching from defense drive into pack drive.
FIGURE 2-7: A typical Teacher’s Pet profile.
Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: A Labrador Retriever bred to bring a bird to hand seen here working...
FIGURE 3-2: The Newfoundland, a large breed, is a laid-back dog except around w...
Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: A very healthy dog.
FIGURE 4-2: Choose a food that can be fed in all life stages.
FIGURE 4-3: Pavi, an 11-year-old Newfoundland, in Agility competition.
FIGURE 4-4: Thinning hair due to hypothyroidism.
FIGURE 4-5: Obesity due to hypothyroidism.
Chapter 5
FIGURE 5-1: Cotton web leash.
FIGURE 5-2: The floating ring is the live ring and the stationary ring is the d...
FIGURE 5-3: Correct snap-around collar placement.
FIGURE 5-4: A pinch collar.
FIGURE 5-5: A head halter.
FIGURE 5-6: A dog in a nonpulling harness.
Chapter 6
FIGURE 6-1: Items you need before your puppy comes home.
FIGURE 6-2: A crate is a comfy den for your dog.
FIGURE 6-3: A solid-sided crate.
FIGURE 6-4: A wire crate forces a dog to be exposed.
FIGURE 6-5: A soft canvas crate for travel.
FIGURE 6-6: How to put on a snap-around collar.
FIGURE 6-7: A harmonious relationship, a boy and his dog.
FIGURE 6-8: Grooming a puppy on a table.
FIGURE 6-9: Bathing your puppy.
FIGURE 6-10: Drying puppy after a bath.
Chapter 7
FIGURE 7-1: Puppies discover valuable lessons while playing.
FIGURE 7-2: Yes, your pup will grow up.
Chapter 8
FIGURE 8-1: Feeding a puppy in a crate.
FIGURE 8-2: A potty tray to hold pee pads.
FIGURE 8-3: An X-pen is another form of containment.
Chapter 9
FIGURE 9-1: Offer your dog a treat with an open hand.
FIGURE 9-2: Offer the treat between two fingers with your hand flat.
FIGURE 9-3: Hold the treats in your other hand as if it were a cup of treats.
FIGURE 9-4: Your dog moves to your hand any time you give the Touch command.
Chapter 10
FIGURE 10-1: Learning Come with the Recall Game.
FIGURE 10-2: Use a hand signal for Go.
FIGURE 10-3: Close up view of the J-leash. No one is pulling, neither you nor y...
Chapter 11
FIGURE 11-1: Gently slide your dog into the Down position.
FIGURE 11-2: Reinforce the Sit-Stay.
FIGURE 11-3: A dog doing a lovely Down-Stay at their owner’s side.
Chapter 12
FIGURE 12-1: Use this clock face to learn your dog’s walking zone — 7 o’clock t...
FIGURE 12-2: Hold the leash over your right thumb and float the rest of leash t...
FIGURE 12-3: With the leash over your right shoulder, have your hands funneled ...
FIGURE 12-4: Heeling with distraction.
Chapter 13
FIGURE 13-1: A well-trained dog showing off their good manners.
FIGURE 13-2: Different types of dog beds.
Chapter 14
FIGURE 14-1: Practicing door manners.
Chapter 15
FIGURE 15-1: Tired dogs have happy owners.
FIGURE 15-2: Does your dog jump on people?
FIGURE 15-3: A puppy showing early signs of counter surfing.
FIGURE 15-4: Hammer a wire fencing barrier into the ground.
FIGURE 15-5: A wire fencing barrier in front of your regular fence.
FIGURE 15-6: Staked-down fencing.
Chapter 16
FIGURE 16-1: The dog holds the dumbbell from the middle dowel.
FIGURE 16-2: Retrieving with third-degree distraction.
Chapter 17
FIGURE 17-1: Help by sliding your hand from the elbow to the paw.
FIGURE 17-2: Two cups, one is loaded, and one is empty.
FIGURE 17-3: Watch Buddy sniff out the correct cup for the treat.
FIGURE 17-4: Buddy leaps into the box after you tossed a treat into the box.
FIGURE 17-5: Hiding in the box by going into the Down position.
FIGURE 17-6: Offer both fisted hands, but only one holds a treat.
FIGURE 17-7: Have them choose which one.
FIGURE 17-8: Only Buddy’s face should be able to push through your legs for the...
FIGURE 17-9: Load your gun (your pointed finger) with a treat in your hand.
FIGURE 17-10: Take a Bow to thundering applause.
Chapter 18
FIGURE 18-1: Releasing energy from prey drive.
FIGURE 18-2: The tug-of-war game.
Chapter 19
FIGURE 19-1: A DAP dispenser.
FIGURE 19-2: Dogs getting the exercise and social interactions that they need a...
Chapter 20
FIGURE 20-1: A 12-year-old dog walking backward.
FIGURE 20-2: Neck stretches to keep Buddy in shape.
FIGURE 20-3: Swimming is a great activity for your senior dog.
FIGURE 20-4: Keeping your senior’s nails short is a must.
FIGURE 20-5: Clean teeth keep your old dog healthy.
FIGURE 20-6: Playing with a puppy keeps an older dog feeling young.
Chapter 21
FIGURE 21-1: A dog’s collar before it is empty.
FIGURE 21-2: A well-trained and well-loved best friend showing off ...
FIGURE 21-3: Puppies can be left at pet stores without proper socia...
Guide
Cover
Table of Contents
Title Page
Copyright
Begin Reading
Index
About the Authors
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Dog Training For Dummies®, 5th Edition
Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2025947881
ISBN 978-1-394-35630-0 (pbk); ISBN 978-1-394-35631-7 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-394-35632-4 (ebk)
Introduction
Both of us have had dogs of one kind or another since childhood.
I, Mary Ann, have trained dogs ever since my early 20s and every day since. I have had mentors, read books, gone to seminars, and trained with more experienced people than myself at the time. I studied and earned a Veterinary Technology degree. I took what I learned from everyone, blending it, until I found Wendy Volhard. After Wendy showed me the complete package, the Drives Theory, I adopted it all and have helped grow it to what it is today. This book is based on exactly that: how dogs think and understand us through body language and communication.
Through all these years, we’re still sharing what we have learned along the way. Every one of our dogs has been more of a teacher than a pupil, and we’ve discovered much more from our dogs than we could ever have hoped to teach them. This book is our attempt to pass on to you what our dogs have taught us.
Without help, few people can become proficient, much less an expert, in a given field. We certainly have had plenty of help. A well-trained dog is the result of education, more yours than your dog’s. You need to know what makes a dog a dog, how they think, how they react, how they grow, how they express themselves, what their needs are, and most importantly, why they do what they do. When you understand your dog fully, you can achieve a mutually rewarding relationship. A dog isn’t a homogenous commodity. Each one is a unique individual, and in their differences lies the challenge.
Every dog teaches you something. Most dog trainers you meet also show you something even if it’s only how they communicate with the dogs with which they work. Communication is the key to all dog training. Without communication no training can take place. Dogs need to understand what you want, they need to know when you’re pleased, and they need to know when you’re finished and moving on. Play is a big part of training a dog. After all, training can be viewed as play as well as work, enjoyable either way.
Our goal in writing this book is to show how communication works and how you must communicate with your dog so that both of you can learn the game of dog training. Enjoy as you read and put into practice all the information and advice in this book.
About This Book
We truly want this book to be a useful tool for you. And we don’t want dog training to feel like a chore that you have to slog through every day. We’ve structured this book in such a way that you can jump in and out of the text as it interests you and applies to your situation. For instance, is your dog partially trained but needs to learn a few things? If so, consult the table of contents or index and go directly to the chapters you need.
Nor do we expect you to internalize every bit of information in this book. Throughout the text, we include reminders of key points and cross-references to more information about the topic at hand. Remember, dog training is fun! It isn’t a series of tests that you have to pass — unless, of course, you and your dog enter the world of competitive events. Competing is when it truly becomes a hobby, spending time with your dog on the road and going to shows and events.
Because training starts the moment you bring your little bundle of fur home, we tell you about behavioral development and what to expect during the first few weeks and months. We guide you with tips on training, tell you about up-to-date training equipment, and help you establish a daily schedule. We devote a whole chapter to housetraining and crate training.
This fifth edition of Dog Training For Dummies is full of new and revised exercises for you. In addition to a wide array of new photos, we’ve also
Reorganized many of the training exercises to make them more accessible and easier to follow.
Updated exercises to reflect current training trends.
Added exercises to make living with your dog easier and more fun from the start.
Updated and revised Wendy’s nutrition chapter with the most current information available.
We consider our older dogs our friends as well and have included in this edition a chapter on keeping your old dog young. We offer exercises that you can use to limber up the old joints, tips on feeding, information on the latest supplements, and much more.
All in all, this is a practical book that we hope will make your relationship with your dog the very best it can be.
Foolish Assumptions
In writing this book, we assume a few things about you:
You have a dog or plan to get one.
You want your dog to be well behaved — for their sake as well as yours.
You’re self-motivated and ready to make training a priority.
You’re looking for an inexpensive guide that gives you the freedom to train your dog in what you want them to do and when you want them to do it.
You want to know more about training and communicating with your dog.
No matter the amount of training experience you have, you can find this book helpful. Through our many years of working with a wide variety of dog breeds and personalities, we’ve picked up many tricks that are sure to prove useful, even to experienced dog trainers.
Icons Used in This Book
To help you navigate your way through the text, we have included some highlights of important material, some hints, some cautions, and some true stories of success. This key information is marked with little pictures (or icons) in the margins. Here’s what the icons tell you:
This icon draws your attention to ways to save time, money, energy, and your sanity.
This icon raises a red flag; your safety or your dog’s may be at risk. It also tells you about the don’ts of dog training. Proceed at your own risk!
This icon directs you to information that’s important to remember — key points that you want to focus on.
This icon highlights in-depth information that isn’t critical for you to know but can enhance your knowledge of dog training and make you a better teacher.
Where to Go from Here
The important thing about dog training is to get started today. The sooner you train your dog to behave the way you want them to, the sooner the two of you can live in peace together, and the more problems you can prevent down the road. So turn the page (or use the table of contents or index to get to the information you need the most) and get going! Your dog will thank you for it. You can also visit www.dummies.com and search for the Dog Training For Dummies Cheat Sheet for access to information you may need on a regular basis. You can also find an online bonus chapter on getting expert dog training help here: www.dummies.com/go/dogtrainingfd5e.
Part 1
Setting the Stage for Successful Training
IN THIS PART …
You get the dog you train, so train for the dog you want.
Become aware of what your dog is learning from you. Whether you know it or not, you’re sometimes teaching your dog something and other times stopping them from doing something unwanted. Pick the six most important commands you want to teach your dog as the foundation of their training.
Look into your dog’s personality and see how you affect everything they do. Discover how your body language is one of the main ways you communicate with your dog.
Find out what it takes to be the best dog trainer for your dog. Be aware of the other factors that surround your dog, such as their environment, as well as those things born within your dog, such as how they perceive the world.
Read about how your dog’s nutrition and health affects their learning and retention of the training.
Know which training aids you should buy to help you train your dog. A wide selection is available. Different things work better for different dogs.
Start on the right foot as you bring your new dog or puppy home, what to plan, and what to do first. Training doesn’t end with Sit and Down; it also includes brushing fur and teeth and saving your house from destruction.
See what it takes to raise the best dog in the world, from birth to adolescence. All the critical periods of development can change your puppy for life, so learn what they’re all about and what you need to do during each of those critical periods.
Chapter 1
Dog Training: The Key to Your Dog’s Safety and Your Sanity
IN THIS CHAPTER
Knowing what you're teaching Buddy when you’re training together
Recognizing a well-trained dog
Reviewing the training models
Understanding the six basic commands
Becoming familiar with factors that influence success
Exploring additional training
Getting started
So, you have a dog? You are so lucky. You want to train your dog, right? Lucky dog. There is nothing you can do to build a bond more quickly between you and your dog than training together, working as a team, and spending time productively. Lucky team.
You want your dog to want to be with you, work for you, and then do it all again — for a treat, for praise, for play, because it’s worth your dog’s while. This chapter serves as a jumping-off point as you begin to develop your relationship with your dog. Training can be fun for you and for your dog. The results are what make all the time you put into training your dog worthwhile, but the journey of training is what can be so much fun — spending time with the dog who will become your best friend.
Someone once wrote: “All owners think they have the best dog in the world, and luckily they are all right.” Hence, the role of the dog will be played by your dog, and we refer to them in this book as Buddy, your buddy. Please insert your dog partner’s name where necessary. We want your relationship with your dog to be a joy. No Dog; No Joy! Know Dog; Know Joy!
Understanding Why You’re Training Buddy: To Do Something or Not to Do Something
Your dog is learning from the moment you meet each other, so you want to make sure that you know what they’re learning from you. Are you a pushover, a littermate, or the leader of the pack? You want your dog to see you as the pack leader, the coach. That means you set the rules, what games to play, when to eat, when to sleep, when to exercise, and when to train. Dogs don’t know you’re training them. All they know is you are spending time together, which is magical.
The important question when training your dog is this: Are you training your dog to do something or to not do something? The answer really can be both. You’re teaching Buddy to be a good dog, to do this instead of doing that. To do something would be to sit here while you come in the door and greet your dog. To not do something would be not to jump up as you come in the door. Teaching your dog to sit while greeting you is so much more fun than teaching your dog not to jump up on you. As often as possible, you’re going to teach Buddy what you want them to do rather than what you don’t want them to do.
Identifying a Well-Trained Dog
A well-trained dog is a joy to have around. They’re welcome almost anywhere because they behave around people and other dogs. They know how to stay and come when called. They are a pleasure to take for a walk because they don’t pull and can be let loose for a romp in the park. They can be taken on trips and family outings. They’re a member of the family in every sense of the word. This is your goal for Buddy, to be a well-trained dog!
The most important benefit of training your dog is safety: for you, for others, and for your dog’s own safety. A dog that listens and does what they’re told rarely gets into trouble. A trained dog is a free dog — they can be trusted to stay when told, not to jump on people, to come when called, and to walk nicely with you.
For decades, I (Mary Ann) have taught dog-training classes, private lessons, seminars, and weeklong training camps. Working closely with veterinarians allows me to spend a lot of time doing behavior counseling with their clients. I ask people to tell me what a well-trained dog should look like and what they want to successfully train their dogs to do. They want a dog to be housetrained (Chapter 8 can help you with that task). Sadly, more dogs are given up to shelters for failure to become house-trained than any other issue. After that, in order of importance, a well-trained dog is one who
Doesn’t jump on people
Doesn’t pull on the leash
Does come when called
Doesn’t beg at the table
Doesn’t bother guests
Note that these requirements, with one exception, are expressed in the negative — that is, “Dog, don’t do that.” For purposes of training, we express these requirements in the positive — teach your dog exactly what you expect from them. Here’s what the new list of requirements for a well-trained dog looks like:
Sit when I tell you. (
Chapter 11
gives you the how-to.)
Walk on a loose leash. (
Chapter 12
is your go-to.)
Come when called. (
Chapter 10
explains how to teach the Come command.)
Go somewhere and chill out. (Head to
Chapter 13
for more information.)
Lie down when I tell you and stay there. (
Chapter 11
can help.)
The Sit and Down-Stay commands (see Figure 1-1) are the building blocks for a well-trained dog; if Buddy knows these commands and nothing else, you can still live with them. Of course, your Buddy may have some additional issues that need ironing out, some of which are more matters of management than training. (Chapter 11 discusses these essential commands in greater detail.)
© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
FIGURE 1-1: Well-trained dogs.
For instance, a favorite pastime of some dogs is raiding the garbage. Prevention is the cure here: Put the garbage where your dog can’t get to it. By moving the trashcan to a secured location, you’re managing the environment that fixes the problem. By purchasing a trash container that can’t be raided, again you’re managing the environment and fixing Buddy’s bad behavior. Management is much easier and more quickly successful than having to train an unwanted behavior out of your dog. Of course, teaching the Leave It command and giving Buddy other things to occupy his attention is also great training. Management and training work hand in hand and together result in the best possible dog you can live with and be most proud of.
WHAT IS AN UNTRAINED DOG?
The untrained dog has few privileges. When guests come to visit, they’re locked away because they’re too unruly. When the family sits down to eat, they’re locked up or put outside because they beg at the table. They’re never allowed off leash because they run away and stay out for hours at a time. Nobody wants to take them for a walk because they pull, and they never get to go on family outings because they’re a nuisance.
Dogs are social animals, and one of the cruelest forms of punishment is to deprive them of the opportunity to interact with family members on a regular basis. Isolating a dog from contact with humans is inhumane. Spending quality time with your dog by training them will make them the beloved pet they deserve to be.
Selecting a Training Model
You have many ways to train a dog, ranging from rather primitive to fairly sophisticated. Even technology has had its impact on dog training. For example, rather than fenced yards, people often now have invisible fences, which contain dogs within their confines by means of an electrical shock or tone.
Our approach to training is for people who like their dogs and have them first and foremost as pets and companions or for people who want to like their dogs. Either way, we like your dog and want them to be the best possible dog and you to be the best possible trainer for your dog.
The training involves three phases:
The teaching phase:
In the
teaching phase,
the dog is taught specific commands in an area free of distractions so they can focus on you and be successful.
The practicing phase:
When the dog reliably responds to the commands they have learned, distractions are introduced (we explain distractions in more detail in
Chapter 10
). As the dog progresses in this practice phase, the distractions become increasingly more difficult to simulate real-life situations.
The testing phase:
In the
testing phase,
the dog is expected to demonstrate that they’re a well-mannered pet around other dogs and people.
The ultimate object of any training is to have your dog respond reliably to your commands. Ideally, they respond to your first command. Telling your dog to do something only to have them ignore you is frustrating. Think of Buddy’s response in terms of choices. Do you want to teach Buddy to think they have a choice of responding to you? You want a dog that understands — after you have taught them — that they must do what you tell them, no matter what is happening around them. A truly trained dog listens for your voice above all distractions.
Distractions do cause Buddy to struggle to hear your voice above other things, as does the genetic influence of those things that Buddy was bred to do instinctively, that which is in harmony with Buddy's basic nature. Are all dogs the same to train or does the breed or mixture of breeds make a difference? Like people, dogs are individuals and have individual needs. Understanding breed characteristics and different teaching models helps to make the job of training that much easier.
First things first: Considering your dog’s breed
Before you embark on your training program, consider what you want your dog to master, and then compare your answer to the task for which the breed was originally bred. Many people typically select their dogs based on appearance and without regard to breed-specific functions and behaviors. Whatever trait is in harmony with the breed of your dog is easier to teach or harder to break. For example, a Beagle uses their nose everywhere they go. Teaching a Beagle to track or follow a scent is much easier than teaching a Greyhound to track. Greyhounds are bred to visualize movement rather than to sniff out prey.
Although most dogs can be trained to obey basic obedience commands, breed-specific traits determine the ease or difficulty with which they can be trained and lived with. You also need to consider other traits, such as energy levels and grooming needs. High-energy dogs must have outlets for all that energy. Chapter 20 discusses problems that occur if your dog doesn’t get the exercise they need. After all, a tired dog is a happy dog, and a tired dog has a happy owner. Grooming, brushing, bathing, and clipping of hair coats is time consuming and expensive if you hire a professional. For a dog to be healthy, the coat and skin need to be cared for regularly. Chapter 6 discusses grooming.
Do some research: How much exercise and type of yard does Buddy need? Does this fit your lifestyle? How much grooming is needed, and will this fit your budget? Is this breed a good fit with kids if you have a family? Doing the research before you get your dog can save you heartache and headache later.
Training a dog or untraining them: What are you really doing?
When training a dog, you’re either teaching them to do something (build a behavior) or not to do something (abstain from a behavior). For example, consider the Stay command. Are you teaching your dog to remain where they are or not to move from where they are? You can look at any command and ask this question. When training a dog, you’re usually building a behavior. Look at Figure 1-2 to help understand.
In the figure, the first column lists how to build a behavior. The second column lists how to abstain from a behavior. When talking about behavior in proper training terminology, positive means adding something, indicated with the plus sign (+), and negative means removing something, indicated with the minus sign (–). These two terms don’t mean good and bad, which is so often associated with positive and negative.
© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
FIGURE 1-2: The difference between training to do something and training to stop an unwanted behavior.
We need to define two other words in terms of behavior:
Reinforcement
is used in the building of a behavior.
Punishment
is used in the abstaining of a behavior.
An easy way to remember this distinction is that reinforcement of something makes it stronger or builds it, and punishment tends to stop something or abstains from something. These two sections examine reinforcement and punishment in more detail.
Reinforcement: Building a behavior
When training a dog, you want the dog to do something new and different. To do that, you need to motivate them by either giving them something they want for doing the new task or getting them to avoid something they don’t want for not doing it. Consider the following:
Positive reinforcement
(+) is adding something the dog wants to encourage them to do something they wouldn’t do on their own. For example, you want the dog to go upstairs, so you put a tiny treat on each step to induce the dog to go upstairs.
Negative reinforcement
(–) is eliciting a behavior the dog wouldn’t do on their own by making them avoid discomfort. The dog does what is wanted because they want to avoid the reinforcement from happening to him. For example, you want the dog to go upstairs, so someone gooses the dog’s behind to get them to go upstairs to avoid the discomfort of the pinch. At the top of the stairs, you praise them because they went upstairs.
Which approach works best? It may depend on how hungry the dog is, how much they like the treat being used, and whether something more interesting isn’t going on around the corner, such as a cookout. In the negative reinforcement approach, it may depend on how hard of a pinch you use and if they don’t mind the pinch versus the effort it takes to climb the stairs.
Training comes with so many variables. The cookout is a distraction, which is why it’s best to do early training when no distractions are around. The ability to climb the stairs or the difficulty of the task you’re teaching plays a big part on how willing your dog is. Buddy may suffer the consequences instead of climbing the stairs or jumping into a pool if water is too scary or if Buddy really likes people and wants to join in the party next door. Make sure you break the task you’re teaching into small parts to make it more easily understood and achievable.
Later, you can add distractions to the training after Buddy has learned the command. Distractions make the task more difficult for Buddy. When working with distractions, your dog needs to choose doing the task over being distracted. The objective of distraction training is to train until your dog does the task no matter what is going on around them simply because you asked them to do so.
Punishment: Eliminating an unwanted behavior
When training a dog to stop doing an unwanted behavior, there should be a consequence. The consequence can be either adding something the dog doesn’t want or removing something they do want. Consider the following:
Positive punishment:
Positive punishment
adds an unwanted consequence (+) at the start of the bad behavior just as it begins. For example, as soon as a counter-surfing dog sniffs the edge of the counter, you can shake a bottle half-filled with pennies at the dog as an unpleasant consequence. (
Oops:
If the dog is already on the counter or eating off the counter, using the bottle with pennies is too late. The dog has been rewarded by getting the food off the counter. Because the Oops happened, the dog has learned to counter-surf, which is why it’s an Oops.) To eliminate the bad behavior, you must add something that the dog doesn’t want so they avoid the counter because of the penny shaker. When the bad behavior stops, you don’t offer praise; you never want them to counter-surf, so don’t praise them for wishing they could still get up on the counter to eat.
Negative punishment:
Negative punishment
removes something (–) that the dog wanted because the dog behaved badly. For example, if a dog is jumping up on you when you come into the house, turn your back to the dog for a split second, removing your attention that was wanted because they jumped up. Turn back toward them once more, and if they jump again, turn back around so that they no longer have your attention and can’t see your expression. Then, praise them for being
off
you and having four feet on the ground. Remember, they get praised for being off, which is the behavior you want.
HOW TO MAKE YOUR DOG RING-WISE BY ACCIDENT!
The term ring-wise refers to a dog who won’t perform in a show ring or in front of an audience or for friends. The dog becomes ring-wise because when a dog is performing in an obedience ring, the owner isn’t permitted to use food to aid the dog to perform. Therefore, the dog won’t perform in a ring after they have learned something because doing so isn’t worth their while. Ring-wise is an unwanted label because dogs should perform whether there is food present or not.
Adding rewards or removing rewards, praising or not praising, adding an unpleasant consequence, or stopping an unwanted consequence all make the difference in the dog's learning. Let me explain:
When you use food all the time while training or practicing a behavior you’re building, you’re using positive reinforcements; that is, adding something the dog wants. When you stop using the food you normally use all the time, you’re using negative punishment because you’re taking away what the dog wants. The dog unlearns the trick or stops giving you the behavior under these conditions in front of an audience. In other words, they’ll become ring-wise.
To avoid this problem, randomly use food. As they learn a behavior, you need to diminish their reliance on food. Instead of giving a treat every time, give it only every other or third time; skip a time occasionally and make it random. Buddy learns to try harder to get the treat; they try to do the best for you and remain focused on you as you continue to work. They learn that food comes if they keep trying. Keep it fun by praising and smiling, and Buddy will work always, even in front of an audience.
Identifying Six Basic Commands Every Dog Needs to Know
Every dog needs to know six basic commands: Sit, Down, Stay, Come, Heel, and Leave It. You can look at these as safety and sanity commands — your dog’s safety and your sanity. Here’s a look at each of these commands:
The Sit command:
You use the Sit command (see
Chapter 11
) anytime you need your dog to control themselves. You can use the command to teach your dog to do the following:
Sit politely for petting instead of jumping on people
Sit politely to allow the collar and leash to be put on your dog
Sit at the door instead of barging ahead of you
Sit when you put his food dish on the floor instead of trying to grab it out of your hand
The Down command:
You use the Down command (check out
Chapter 11
) when you want your dog to stay in one place for prolonged periods, such as when you’re eating dinner or at the vet’s office.
The Come command:
You need to teach your dog the Come command (flip to
Chapter 10
) so you can call them when you take them for a hike, when they’d rather chase a squirrel, or when it’s time to come inside.
The Stay command:
When you want to teach your dog to remain in place without moving, you teach them the Stay command (see
Chapter 11
).
The Heel command:
Also known as the Let’s Go command, depending on what you want, the Heel command is when you want your dog to walk politely and not pull you on the leash (see
Chapter 12
).
The Leave It command:
You teach your dog the Leave It command (head to
Chapter 9
), so they leave stuff alone when you don’t want them to have it or grab it or chase it.
Recognizing Factors That Influence Success
Of the many factors that influence success, you are the most important one. You’re the one who decides how to approach training and what you want your dog to learn. Your dog is your responsibility and whatever your dog does — good or bad — is under your control. Remember, you get the dog you train, so train for the dog you want.
Having a good relationship with your dog
The goal of training is to create a mutually rewarding relationship — you’re happy and your dog is happy. To foster such a relationship, become aware of how many times you use your dog’s name to change or control his behavior. Your dog’s name isn’t a command and certainly isn’t a reprimand. Their name is used to get their attention and is then followed by a command. See Chapter 9 for how to train Buddy to recognize their name.
Stop nagging and learn to communicate with your dog through training. Focus on teaching Buddy what you want them to do rather than on what you don’t want them to do. Above all, limit negative verbal communications, such as “No,” to emergencies. Repeatedly yelling “No” isn’t the way to foster a good relationship. Instead of using “No,” use a command that you’ve taught and means something. Too many people use “No” for everything and therefore it means nothing. Use Come or Leave It instead.
A good relationship also requires spending quality time together. You can spend time with your dog by training, going for walks, playing ball, doing tricks, and so on. Chapter 17 provides some great ideas for things you can do with Buddy.
Owning a healthy dog
Your dog’s health has an enormous influence on their training success. A dog who doesn’t feel well won’t learn well either. First and foremost, their health depends on what you feed them. You need to feed them a high-quality food that provides the nutrients they need (see Chapter 4).
Your dog also needs an annual checkup by your veterinarian, preferably with bloodwork. Regular bathing and grooming are similarly important. If you live in an area where there are ticks, check their skin regularly. Deer ticks spread Lyme disease, which can have debilitating effects on your dog. Ticks, heartworms, and internal and external parasites need to be diagnosed and treated by your veterinarian.
Making training time a priority
One of the most common complaints for not training is: “I just don’t have the time to train my dog!” First, look at training as a fun game — something you and your dog enjoy doing together. It shouldn’t be a chore. Then identify the times during the day when you interact most with your dog.
Here are some times when you can take advantage of training opportunities:
Feeding time:
If your dog is still a puppy, you feed them four, three, and eventually two times a day. Each meal is a training opportunity — teach them to Sit and Stay before you put the dish down. Make them wait for a second or two and then let them eat. You’ll be surprised how quickly they catch on to this routine. You also can put the dish down first and follow the same procedure.
When exiting and entering buildings:
If you have more than one dog, door manners are an absolute must. They’re equally important for the single-dog household. It usually takes about 30 seconds for the dog to catch on that they’re supposed to wait before you tell them it’s okay to exit (or enter). It’s a matter of consistency on your part until the behavior becomes automatic.
Chapter 14
discusses door manners.
While relaxing with your pooch:
You can teach the Leave It command while you’re watching TV. Take a few treats to your favorite chair and have fun teaching the progressions to the exercise (see
Chapter 9
).
During walks:
Every time you take your dog for a walk is a training opportunity to teach them to sit at the curb, to heel when passing other dogs, and to walk on a loose leash when walking beside you as you say, “Let’s go” and “Heel” (head to
Chapter 12
.)
All of these commands teach your dog to focus on you and look to you for direction — and they all happen as a part of your daily routine.
Oh, the Places You and Your Pooch Can Go: Beyond the Basics
Performance events: The purpose of obedience trials, as stated in the American Kennel Club (AKC) Obedience Regulations, is to “demonstrate the dog’s ability to follow specified routines in the obedience ring and emphasize the usefulness of the purebred dog as a companion of man.” Now, AKC allows mixed-breed dogs in all of their performance events; having a purebred isn’t required to compete in AKC events. Following are some of the options you can explore if you want to take training to the next level. For all the following, visit www.akc.org.
The Canine Good Citizen Certificate
In 1989, the AKC developed the popular Canine Good Citizen (CGC) test, a program for both purebred dogs and mixed breeds. The CGC test uses a series of exercises that demonstrate the dog’s ability to behave in an acceptable manner in public. Its purpose is to show that the dog, as a companion for all people, can be a respected member of the community and can be trained and conditioned to always behave in the home, in public places, and in the presence of other dogs in a manner that reflects credit on the dog.
Now AKC has expanded the CGC to include the Urban and Farm and Advanced CGC tests. Your dog also can earn a Temperament Testing. AKC is just one of the national dog clubs, though it is the largest and most well-known.
In many areas, you can find classes to help you train your dog and prepare the two of you for the CGC.
AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy program
The goal of the AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy program is similar to the Canine Good Citizen program, except that it’s aimed at puppies. Just like the CGC program, the AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy program includes a Responsible Dog Owner Pledge as well as a basic training program in which puppies up to 1 year of age are eligible to participate. After you attend a basic training class locally, your puppy must take a test. Look online for information on dog training in your area. When the puppy passes the test, they receive a certificate and a medal.
AKC tricks titles
AKC offers multiple titles for your dog as they learn and perform different levels of tricks — from Novice to Performer and Elite Performer and several in between. There is no limit to getting your dog to become a star and earn a title to prove it.
More than training: Understanding how dogs help people
People and dogs have been together for a long time. It didn’t take people long to recognize the dog’s potential as a valuable helper. Originally, the dog’s main jobs were guarding, hauling, herding, and hunting. Over time, more jobs were added to the canine’s resume; now dogs perform an amazing variety of tasks. These tasks fall into four broad categories: service dogs, detection dogs, assistance dogs, and companion dogs.
For more information, visit the websites for these organizations: Canine Companions (canine.org), Canine Assistants (www.canineassistants.org), Dogs for Better Lives (dogsforbetterlives.org), Assistance Dogs International (assistancedogsinternational.org), and Guiding Eyes for the Blind (www.guidingeyes.org).
An Exercise to Get You and Your Pooch Started
Eager to get started with some training? We hope so! We begin with an exercise that shows you how to train your dog while you’re feeding them. We chose this exercise because you’re going to feed your dog two times a day (and even more frequently if they’re a puppy), and each time you do it is a training opportunity. It’s also a good exercise because the dog quickly figures out what is to their advantage — namely, they stay, and they get to eat. They also learn leadership while you work this exercise. Leadership means that you own the food, and you give it to them, but only when you release them to the bowl. Leadership means you’re the leader of the pack, the coach of the team, and your dog is the player.
If your dog is enthusiastic and bouncy, you’ll have more success with this exercise when they’re leashed rather than loose.
Follow these steps to successfully train your pooch to Sit and Stay before eating:
Prepare the meal as you normally do.
While your dog is wearing the leash and collar, pick up the leash with your left hand and hold it as close to the collar as is comfortable for you, but without any tension on your dog’s collar.
Pick up the dish with your right hand, say, “Stay,” and then put the dish on the floor.
