Dog Training For Dummies E-Book

Wendy Volhard

• Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 826

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2020

Beschreibung

Make your buddy a top dog for life, be your Best Friend's "Friend," by training together. Obedience training is one of the most important aspects of raising a dog. In fact, a well-trained dog is a FREE dog! Why? Because a trained dog requires fewer restrictions. The more reliable the dog, the more freedom he is given. Dog Training for Dummies shows dog owners how to select the right training method for their puppy, adult, or senior dog. Whether you want to teach Buddy to sit or master retrieving, this hands-on guide provides training to ensure a mutually respectful relationship with your four-legged family members. * Eliminate unwanted behavior * Find step-by-step instruction on basic commands * Strengthen your bond with your dog * Build communication, understanding, and mutual respect Based on positive reinforcement, trust, and obedience, the tips and tricks inside will help you bring out the very best in your beloved pet.

Leseprobe

Dog Training For Dummies®, 4th Edition

Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com

Copyright © 2020 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey

Published simultaneously in Canada

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Library of Congress Control Number: 2020932726

ISBN: 978-1-119-65682-1; ISBN 978-1-119-65684-5 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-119-65687-6 (ebk)

Dog Training For Dummies®

To view this book's Cheat Sheet, simply go to www.dummies.com and search for “Dog Training For Dummies Cheat Sheet” in the Search box.

Table of Contents

Cover

Introduction

About This Book

Foolish Assumptions

Icons Used in This Book

Where to Go from Here

Part 1: Setting the Stage for Successful Training

Chapter 1: Dog Training: The Key to Your Dog’s Safety and Your Sanity

Understanding Why You’re Training Buddy: To Do Something or Not to Do Something

Identifying a Well-Trained Dog

Selecting a Training Model

Identifying Six Basic Commands Every Dog Needs to Know

Recognizing Factors that Influence Success

Oh, the Places You and Your Pooch Can Go: Beyond the Basics

An Exercise to Get You and Your Pooch Started

Chapter 2: Getting to Know Your Dog and How He Perceives the World

Determining What Motivates You and Your Dog

Being Aware of Your Dog’s Body Language

Recognizing Your Dog’s Instinctive Behaviors

Determining Your Dog’s Personality Profile

Deciding How You Want Buddy to Act

Remembering Who’s Training Whom

Chapter 3: Developing Training Savvy

Managing the Dog Within

Stressing the Effects of Stress

Managing Your Dog’s Environment

Understanding the “You” Factor

Chapter 4: Understanding the Vital Role That Nutrition and Health Play in Training

Finding the Right Food for Buddy

Understanding the Nutrients Your Dog Needs

Making Choices about How to Feed Buddy

Exploring Common Health Issues That Affect Behavior and Training

Chapter 5: Gearing Up for Training Success

Choosing the Right Training Leash and Collar

Readying a Reward: Treats Are Your Training Buddies

Considering Other Equipment You Can Use

Part 2: Performing Puppy Preliminaries

Chapter 6: Bringing Your Puppy Home: What You Need to Know

Preparing for Puppy’s Arrival

Bringing Puppy Home — Now What?

Starting Buddy’s Education

Solving Perplexing Puppy Problems

Chapter 7: Surviving Your Puppy’s Critical Growth Periods

Understanding Your Puppy’s Early Development

The Terrible Twos: Managing the Adolescent from 4 Months to 2 Years

Spaying or Neutering to Help with Behavior and Training

Part 3: Tackling Training Basics

Chapter 8: The Ins and Outs of Housetraining

Helping Buddy Get Used to His Crate

Training a Dog to Eliminate Outside

Establishing a Regular Feeding and Elimination Schedule

Designating a Regular Toilet Area

When Accidents Happen — Knowing What to Do

Using an Exercise Pen for Housetraining

Chapter 9: Focusing on Some Basic Training Commands

Training for Attention: Praise Versus Petting

Practicing Name Recognition

Teaching Your Dog the Touch Command

Greeting with the Hello Command

Leave It: Getting Your Dog to Leave Stuff Alone

Chapter 10: Coming and Going: Two Essential Commands to Teach Buddy

Understanding the Importance of Leadership: Okay Is the Word

Teaching Your Dog to Come When Called

Training Your Dog to Handle Distractions

Focusing on the Opposite of Come — Go

Chapter 11: Mastering Some Fundamentals: Sit, Down, and Stay

Understanding Why Sit Is So Important

Introducing Down and Its Commands

Training Your Dog Sit and Down Simultaneously

Warming Up with the Long-Down Exercise

Staying in Place: Sit-Stay and Down-Stay

Chapter 12: Going for a Pleasant Walk

Using the Right Leash and Collar When Walking Your Dog

Taking a Pleasure Walk with Your Dog

Teaching Buddy How to Heel at Your Side

Adding Distractions

Chapter 13: Going to Bed and All of Its Practical Uses

Selecting a Bed for Your Dog

Deciphering How You Want to Use the Command

Training Buddy the Go to Your Bed Command

Chapter 14: Getting In, Out, On, and Off and Mastering Door and Stairs Manners

Getting In and Out

Getting On and Off

Training Door Manners

Teaching Stairs Manners

Chapter 15: Dealing with Common Doggie Don’ts

Preventing Bad Habits — The Five General Prescriptions for Good Behavior

Handling Your Dog’s Objectionable Behavior

Teaching Buddy to Keep All Four on the Floor

Putting an End to Counter Surfing — Leave It

Quieting the Incessant Barker

Contending with Chewing — The Nonfood Variety

Dealing with a Digger

Managing Marking Behavior

Part 4: Taking Training to the Next Level

Chapter 16: Retrieving: Time to Fetch

Introducing the Common Retrieving Commands to Your Natural Retriever

Explaining the Basics of Retrieving

Polishing and Perfecting the Retrieve

Chapter 17: Trick Training for Fun

Shake and High Five

Find the Pea under the Right Cup

Hide in a Box

Pick a Hand

Play Shy

Roll Over

Play Dead

Find Mine

Jump through a Hoop

You Have Food on Your Nose

Take a Bow

Dog Catcher/Stranger Trick

Chapter 18: Training for Fun and Competition

Understanding the System: Your Road Map to the Companion Dog Title

First Things First: Teaching the Ready! Command

Heeling Despite Distractions

Let’s Dance, Buddy: Heel On and Then Off Leash

Putting a Twist on Things: Teaching the Figure 8

Your Dog Isn’t an Elephant: Reinforcing Training

Chapter 19: Completing the Companion Dog Title

You’re Getting a Check-Up: Preparing for the Stand for Examination

Heeling Off Leash

Mastering the Recall

Training for the Group Stay Exercises

Part 5: Handling Special Situations

Chapter 20: Addressing Aggression

Understanding Aggression

Managing a Dog’s Aggression — Prey, Pack, Defense Drives

Coping with Aggression around the Food Bowl

Dealing with Fear-Biters

Handling Aggression in Different Circumstances

Chapter 21: Helping Buddy Handle Special Situations

Reacting to Loud Noises and Thunder

Coping with Separation Anxiety

Soiling the House

Dribbling and Submissive Wetting

Taking Buddy on the Road

Going to Doggie Daycare

Minding Your Manners at the Dog Park

Keeping Your Canine Calm at the Vet’s Office

Being Patient with the Rescue Dog

Chapter 22: Keeping Your Senior Dog Young: Teaching an Old Dog New Tricks

Old Gray Muzzle: Exploring the Signs of Aging in Dog Years

Teaching Exercises to Keep Buddy’s Mind and Body Sharp

Taking Care of Your Older Dog’s Health and Nutrition Needs

Keeping Up with Grooming

Bringing Home a Puppy to Help Rejuvenate Buddy

Looking Into Dog Beds, Ramps, Wheelchairs, and Carts

Chapter 23: Supplementing Your Training Efforts with Expert Help

Going to Obedience Training Class

Hiring a Private Trainer

Sending Buddy to a Board and Train

Part 6: The Part of Tens

Chapter 24: Ten Training Traps and How to Avoid Them

Procrastinating on Basic Training

Buying into Attention-Seeking Behavior

Forgetting to Release Your Dog from a Stay

Eliminating Rewards Too Soon

Using Your Dog’s Name as a Command

Having to Repeat Commands Away from Home

Punishing Your Dog When He Comes to You

Running After Your Dog

Expecting Too Much Too Quickly

Ignoring the Principle of Consistency

Chapter 25: Ten Fun and Exciting Sporting Activities

Agility Events

Tracking Titles

Barn Hunt AKC

Lure Coursing

Schutzhund Training

Flyball Competitions

Freestyle Performances

Dock Diving Dogs

Detection Dogs or Scent Work

Working as a Service Dog

Chapter 26: Ten Reasons Dogs Do What They Do

Why Do Dogs Insist on Jumping on People?

Why Do Dogs Sniff Parts of Your Anatomy That You’d Prefer They Didn’t?

Why Do Male Dogs Lift Their Legs So Often?

Why Do Dogs Mount Each Other?

Why Do Dogs Like to Chase Things?

Why Do Dogs Roll in Disgusting Things?

Why Do Dogs Eat Weeds or Grass?

Why Do Dogs Hump Humans’ Legs?

Why Do Dogs Scoot on Their Rear Ends?

Why Do Dogs Circle Before Lying Down?

Index

About the Authors

Connect with Dummies

End User License Agreement

List of Tables

Chapter 2

TABLE 2-1 Comparing Motivation with People and Dogs

TABLE 2-2 Scoring the Profile

Chapter 5

TABLE 5-1 Pros and Cons of Nylon Snap-Around Collars

TABLE 5-2 Pros and Cons of Pinch Collars

TABLE 5-3 Pros and Cons of the Head Halter

Chapter 18

TABLE 18-1 The Pre-Novice Class

TABLE 18-2 The Novice Class

Chapter 25

TABLE 25-1 Differences between Agility and Obedience Trials

List of Illustrations

Chapter 1

FIGURE 1-1: Well-trained dogs.

FIGURE 1-2: The difference between training to do something and training to sto...

FIGURE 1-3: Teaching your dog the Stay command as a part of feeding him.

Chapter 2

FIGURE 2-1: Dogs showing the chase, a typical prey-drive behavior.

FIGURE 2-2: A dog enjoying physical contact with a person, a typical pack drive...

FIGURE 2-3: A dog growling, a typical fight behavior.

FIGURE 2-4: Your dog’s Profile at a Glance.

FIGURE 2-5: How a dog can go between any drive as he chooses.

FIGURE 2-6: Switching from defense drive into pack drive.

FIGURE 2-7: A typical Teacher’s Pet profile.

Chapter 3

FIGURE 3-1: A Labrador Retriever bred to bring game to hand.

FIGURE 3-2: The Newfoundland, a large breed, is a laid-back dog except around w...

Chapter 4

FIGURE 4-1: A very healthy dog.

FIGURE 4-2: Choose a food that can be fed to all life stages.

FIGURE 4-3: Pavi, an 11-year-old Newfoundland, in Agility competition.

FIGURE 4-4: Thinning hair due to hypothyroidism.

FIGURE 4-5: Obesity due to hypothyroidism.

Chapter 5

FIGURE 5-1: Cotton web leash.

FIGURE 5-2: The floating ring is the live ring and the stationary ring is the d...

FIGURE 5-3: Correct snap-around collar placement.

FIGURE 5-4: A pinch collar.

FIGURE 5-5: A head halter.

FIGURE 5-6: A dog in a nonpulling harness.

Chapter 6

FIGURE 6-1: Items you need before your puppy comes home.

FIGURE 6-2: A crate is a comfy den for your dog.

FIGURE 6-3: A solid-sided crate.

FIGURE 6-4: A wire crate forces a dog to be exposed.

FIGURE 6-5: How to put on a snap-around collar.

FIGURE 6-6: A harmonious relationship, a boy and his dog.

FIGURE 6-7: Grooming a puppy on a table.

FIGURE 6-8: Bathing your puppy.

FIGURE 6-9: Drying puppy after a bath.

Chapter 7

FIGURE 7-1: Puppies discover valuable lessons while playing.

FIGURE 7-2: Yes, your pup will grow up.

Chapter 8

FIGURE 8-1: Feeding a puppy in a crate.

FIGURE 8-2: A potty tray to hold pee pads.

FIGURE 8-3: An X-pen is another form of containment.

Chapter 9

FIGURE 9-1: Offer your dog a treat with an open hand.

FIGURE 9-2: Offer the treat between two fingers with your hand flat.

FIGURE 9-3: Hold the treats in your other hand as if it were a cup of treats.

FIGURE 9-4: Your dog moves to your hand any time you give the Touch command.

Chapter 10

FIGURE 10-1: Learning Come with the Recall Game.

FIGURE 10-2: Use a hand signal for Go.

Chapter 11

FIGURE 11-1: Gently lowering your dog into the Down position.

FIGURE 11-2: Reinforce the Sit-Stay.

Chapter 12

FIGURE 12-1: Use this clockface to train your dog to walk.

FIGURE 12-2: How to hold a leash.

FIGURE 12-3: Heeling with distraction.

Chapter 13

FIGURE 13-1: A well-trained dog showing off his good manners.

FIGURE 13-2: Different types of dog beds.

Chapter 14

FIGURE 14-1: Practicing door manners.

Chapter 15

FIGURE 15-1: Tired dogs have happy owners.

FIGURE 15-2: Does your dog jump on people?

FIGURE 15-3: A puppy showing early signs of counter surfing.

Chapter 16

FIGURE 16-1: Gently opening your dog’s mouth.

FIGURE 16-2: Putting the dumbbell in your dog’s mouth.

FIGURE 16-3: Holding the back of your hand under the dog’s chin.

FIGURE 16-4: Retrieving with third-degree distraction.

Chapter 17

FIGURE 17-1: Help by sliding your hand from the elbow to the paw.

FIGURE 17-2: Two cups, one is loaded and one is empty.

FIGURE 17-3: Watch Buddy sniff out the correct cup for the treat.

FIGURE 17-4: Buddy leaps into the box after you tossed a treat into the box.

FIGURE 17-5: Hiding in the box by going into the Down position.

FIGURE 17-6: Offer both fisted hands, but only one holds a treat.

FIGURE 17-7: Have him choose which one.

FIGURE 17-8: Only Buddy’s face should be able to push through your legs for the...

FIGURE 17-9: Load your gun (your pointed finger) with a treat in your hand.

FIGURE 17-10: Tie down the unscented pencil and have your pencil loose.

FIGURE 17-11: Use only one scented pencil.

FIGURE 17-12: Cup your hand over his nose on a Sit-Stay.

FIGURE 17-13: Balance the treat on his nose.

FIGURE 17-14: Take a Bow to thundering applause.

Chapter 18

FIGURE 18-1: Using Control Position.

FIGURE 18-2: The perfect Figure 8.

Chapter 19

FIGURE 19-1: This well-behaved pooch stands for examination.

FIGURE 19-2: Using the leash-in-pocket technique.

FIGURE 19-3: Leash-in-pocket technique with the snap looped in your pocket.

FIGURE 19-4: Coming with distractions.

FIGURE 19-5: Using chutes to teach a straight front.

Chapter 20

FIGURE 20-1: Releasing energy from prey drive.

FIGURE 20-2: The tug-of-war game.

Chapter 21

FIGURE 21-1: A DAP dispenser.

FIGURE 21-2: Dogs getting the exercise and social interactions that they need a...

Chapter 22

FIGURE 22-1: Twelve-year-old Annabelle walking backward.

FIGURE 22-2: Neck stretches to keep Buddy in shape.

FIGURE 22-3: Swimming is a great activity for your senior dog.

FIGURE 22-4: Keeping your senior’s nails short is a must.

FIGURE 22-5: Clean teeth keep your old dog healthy.

FIGURE 22-6: Playing with a puppy keeps an older dog feeling young.

Chapter 23

FIGURE 23-1: A group class of dogs showing off a beautiful Sit-Stay in line.

Chapter 25

FIGURE 25-1: A dog in action during an agility trial.

FIGURE 25-2: A Dock Diving dog.

FIGURE 25-3: You can recognize assistance dogs by their jackets.

Guide

Cover

Table of Contents

Begin Reading

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Introduction

Both of us have had dogs of one kind or another since childhood.

Many years later we’re still sharing what we have learned along the way. Every one of our dogs has been more of a teacher than a pupil, and we’ve discovered much more from our dogs than we could ever have hoped to teach them. This book is our attempt to pass on to you what our dogs have taught us.

Without help, few people can become proficient, much less an expert, in a given field. We certainly have had plenty of help. A well-trained dog is the result of education, more yours than your dog’s. You need to know what makes a dog a dog, how he thinks, how he reacts, how he grows, how he expresses himself, what his needs are, and most important, why he does what he does. When you understand your dog fully, you can achieve a mutually rewarding relationship. A dog isn’t a homogenous commodity. Each one is a unique individual, and in their differences lies the challenge.

As a dog trainer, every dog teaches you something. Most dog trainers you meet also show you something even if it’s only how they communicate with the dogs with which they work. Communication is the key to all dog training. Without communication no training can take place. Dogs need to understand what you want, they need to know when you’re pleased, and they need to know when you’re finished and moving on. Play is a big part of training a dog. After all, training can be viewed as play as well as work, enjoyable either way.

Our goal in writing this book was to show how communication works and how you must communicate with your dog so both of you can learn the game of dog training. Enjoy as you read and put into practice all the information and advice in this book.

About This Book

We truly want this book to be a useful tool for you. And we don’t want dog training to feel like a chore that you have to slog through step by step. So we’ve structured this book in such a way that you can jump in and out of the text as it interests you and applies to your situation. For instance, is your dog partially trained but needs to learn a few things? If so, consult the table of contents or index and go directly to the chapters you need.

Nor do we expect you to internalize every bit of information in this book. Throughout the text, we include reminders of key points and cross-references to more information about the topic at hand. Remember, dog training is fun! It isn’t a series of tests that you have to pass — unless, of course, you and your dog enter the world of competitive events.

Because training starts the moment you bring your little bundle of fur home, we tell you about behavioral development and what to expect during the few weeks and months. We guide you with tips on training, tell you about up-to-date training equipment, and help you to establish a daily schedule. We devote a whole chapter to housetraining and crate training.

This fourth edition of Dog Training For Dummies is chock-full of new and revised exercises for you. In addition to a wide array of new photos, we’ve also

Reorganized many of the training exercises to make that more accessible and easier to follow

Updated exercises to reflect current training trends

Added exercises to make living with your dog easier and more fun from the start

Added new tricks so you and your dog can achieve the AKC Trick titles easily

Updated and revised Wendy’s nutrition chapter with the most current information available

We consider our older dogs our friends as well and have included in this edition a chapter on keeping your old dog young. We offer exercises that can be used to limber up the old joints, tips on feeding, information on the latest supplements, and much more.

All in all, this is a practical book that we hope will make your relationship with Buddy the very best it can be.

Foolish Assumptions

In writing this book, we assume a few things about you:

You have a dog or plan to get one.

You want your dog to be well behaved — for his sake as well as yours.

You’re self-motivated and ready to make training a priority.

You’re looking for an inexpensive guide that gives you the freedom to train your dog what and when you want.

You want to know more about training a dog.

No matter the amount of training experience you have, you can find this book helpful. Through our many years of working with a wide variety of dog breeds and personalities, we’ve picked up many tricks that are sure to prove useful even to experienced dog trainers.

Icons Used in This Book

To help you navigate your way through the text, we have included some highlights of important material, some hints, some cautions, and some true stories of success. This key information is marked with little pictures (or icons) in the margins. Here’s what the icons tell you:

This icon draws your attention to ways to save time, money, energy, and your sanity.

This icon raises a red flag; your safety or your dog’s may be at risk. It also tells you about the don’ts of dog training. Proceed at your own risk!

This icon directs you to information that’s important to remember — key points that you want to focus on.

This icon highlights in-depth information that isn’t critical for you to know but that can enhance your knowledge of dog training and make you a better teacher.

Where to Go from Here

The important thing about dog training is getting started today. The sooner you train your dog to behave the way you want him to, the sooner the two of you can live in peace together, and the more problems you can prevent down the road. So turn the page (or use the table of contents or index to get to the information you need the most) and get going! Your dog will thank you for it. You can also visit www.dummies.com and search for the “Dog Training For Dummies” Cheat Sheet for access to information you may need on a regular basis.

Part 1

Setting the Stage for Successful Training

IN THIS PART …

Discover what a well-trained dog looks like. Become aware of what your dog is learning from you at the time. Whether you know it or not, you’re sometimes teaching your dog something and other times stopping him from doing something unwanted. Pick the six most important commands you want to teach your dog as the foundation of his training.

Look into your dog’s personality and see how you affect everything he does and perceives through your body language and how you communicate with each other.

Find out what it takes to be the best dog trainer for your dog. Be aware of the other factors that surround your dog, such as his environment as well as those things born within your dog such as how he perceives the world.

Read about how your dog’s nutrition and health affects his learning and retention of the training.

Know what you should buy to help you train your dog. A wide selection is available. Different things work better for different dogs.

Start on the right foot as you bring your new dog or puppy home, what to plan, and what to do first. Training doesn’t end with Sit and Down but includes brushing fur and teeth and saving your house from destruction.

See what it takes to raise the best dog in the world, from birth to adolescence. All the critical periods of development can change your puppy for life, so learn what they’re all about.

Chapter 1

Dog Training: The Key to Your Dog’s Safety and Your Sanity

IN THIS CHAPTER

Knowing what you ‘re teaching Buddy when you’re training him

Recognizing a well-trained dog

Reviewing the training models

Understanding the six basic commands

Becoming familiar with factors that influence success

Exploring additional training

Getting started

So you have a dog? Lucky you. You want to train your dog, right? Lucky dog. There is nothing that you can do to build a bond more quickly between you and your dog than training together, working as a team and spending time productively.

You want your dog to want to be with you, work for you, and then do it all again — for a treat, for praise, for play, because it’s worth your dog’s while. This chapter serves as a jumping-off point as you begin to develop your relationship with your dog. Training can be fun for you and for your dog. The results are what make all the time you put in training your dog worthwhile, but the journey of training is what can be so much fun — spending time with the dog who will become your best friend.

Someone once wrote: “All owners thinks they have the best dog in the world, and luckily they are all right.” Hence, the role of the dog will be played by your dog, and we refer to him in this chapter and book as Buddy, your buddy, and for simplicity, Buddy is a he. Please insert your dog partner’s name where necessary. We want your relationship with your dog to be a joy.

Understanding Why You’re Training Buddy: To Do Something or Not to Do Something

Your dog is learning from the moment you meet each other, so you want to make sure you know what he’s learning from you. Are you a pushover, a littermate, or the leader of the pack? You want your dog to see you as the pack leader, the coach. That means you set the rules, what games to play, when to eat, when to sleep, when to exercise, and when to train. Dogs don’t know you’re training them. All they know is you and he are spending time together, which is magical.

The important question when training your dog is this: Are you training your dog to do something or to not do something? The answer really can be both. You’re teaching Buddy to be a good dog, to do this instead of doing that. To do something would be to sit here while you come in the door and greet your dog. To not do something would be don’t jump up as you come in the door. Teaching your dog to sit while greeting you is so much more fun than teaching your dog to not jump up on you. As often as possible, you’re going to teach Buddy what you want him to do rather than what you don’t want him to do.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF DOGS

Dogs were originally bred for specific functions, such as guarding, herding, hauling, hunting, and so on. Before 1945, most dogs worked for a living, and many still do. The popularity of dogs as household pets is a relatively recent phenomenon, fueled in part by the heroic exploits of the dogs used in World War II as well as the fictional Rin Tin Tin and Lassie. The upshot of this popularity has been a demand for the family dog who is easy to train, good with children, a little bit protective, and relatively quiet. Even more fun are the dogs people love today in cartoons who are humanized such as Snoopy, Scooby Doo, Lady and the Tramp, and the list goes on. Dogs you own are real and need real guidance and training.

Identifying a Well-Trained Dog

A well-trained dog is a joy to have around. He’s welcome almost anywhere because he behaves around people and other dogs. He knows how to stay, and he comes when called. He’s a pleasure to take for a walk because he doesn’t pull and can be let loose for a romp in the park. He can be taken on trips and family outings. He’s a member of the family in every sense of the word. This is your goal for Buddy, to be a well-trained dog!

The most important benefit of training your dog is safety: your safety, the safety of others, and your dog’s own safety. A dog that listens and does what he’s told rarely gets into trouble. Instead of being a slave to a leash or a line, a trained dog is a free dog — he can be trusted to stay when told, not to jump on people, to come when called, and to walk nicely with you.

For decades, we, Wendy and Mary Ann, have taught dog training classes, private lessons, seminars, and weeklong training camps. Working closely with veterinarians allows us to spend a lot of time doing behavior counseling with their clients. We ask people to tell us what a well-trained dog should look like and what they want to successfully train their dogs to do. They want a dog to be housetrained (Chapter 8 can help you with that task). Sadly more dogs are given up to shelters for failure to become house trained than any other issue. After that, in order of importance, a well-trained dog is one who

Doesn’t jump on people

Doesn’t pull on the leash

Does come when called

Doesn’t beg at the table

Doesn’t bother guests

Note that these requirements, with one exception, are expressed in the negative — that is, dog, don’t do that. For purposes of training, we express these requirements in the positive — teach your dog exactly what you expect from him. Here’s what the new list of requirements for a well-trained dog looks like:

Sit when I tell you. (

Chapter 11

gives you the how-to.)

Walk on a loose leash. (

Chapter 12

is your go-to.)

Come when called. (

Chapter 10

explains how to teach the Come command.)

Go somewhere and chill out. (Head to

Chapter 13

for more information.)

Lie down when I tell you and stay there. (

Chapter 11

can help.)

The Sit and Down-Stay commands (see Figure 1-1) are the building blocks for a well-trained dog; if Buddy knows these commands and nothing else, you can still live with him. Of course, your Buddy may have some additional wrinkles that need ironing out, some of which are more matters of management than training. (Chapter 11 discusses these essential commands in greater detail.)

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

FIGURE 1-1: Well-trained dogs.

For instance, a favorite pastime of some dogs is raiding the garbage. Prevention is the cure here: put the garbage where your dog can’t get to it. By moving the trashcan to a secured location, you’re managing the environment that fixes the problem. By purchasing a trash container that can’t be raided, again you’re managing the environment and fixing Buddy’s bad behavior. Management is much easier and more quickly successful than having to train an unwanted behavior. Of course, teaching the Leave It command and giving Buddy other things to occupy his attention is also great training. Management and training work hand in hand and together result in the best possible dog with whom you can live and be most proud.

For example, one of Wendy’s Dachshunds learned to open the refrigerator by yanking on the towel Wendy kept draped through the door handle; therefore, the dog could help himself to anything he could reach. Prevention was the answer: Wendy removed the towel from the refrigerator handle.

WHAT IS AN UNTRAINED DOG?

The untrained dog has few privileges. When guests come to visit, he’s locked away because he’s too unruly. When the family sits down to eat, he’s locked up or put outside because he begs at the table. He’s never allowed off leash because he runs away and stays out for hours at a time. Nobody wants to take him for a walk because he pulls, and he never gets to go on family outings because he’s a nuisance.

Dogs are social animals, and one of the cruelest forms of punishment is to deprive them of the opportunity to interact with family members on a regular basis. Isolating a dog from contact with humans is inhumane. Spending quality time with your dog by training him will make him the beloved pet he deserves to be.

Selecting a Training Model

You have many ways to train a dog, ranging from rather primitive to fairly sophisticated. Even technology has had its impact on dog training. For example, rather than fenced yards, people often now have invisible fences, which contain dogs within their confines by means of an electrical shock.

Our approach to training is for people who like their dogs and have them first and foremost as pets and companions or for people who want to like their dogs. Someone pointed this out us when she arrived for class. At that point she didn’t like her dog but wanted to make her child happy by having a dog. Either way, we like your dog and want him to be the best possible dog and you to be the best possible trainer for him.

The training involves three phases:

The teaching phase:

In the

teaching phase,

the dog is taught specific commands in an area free of distractions so he can focus on his owner and can be successful.

The practicing phase:

When the dog reliably responds to the commands he has learned, distractions are introduced (we explain distractions in more detail in

Chapter 10

). As the dog progresses in this practice phase, the distractions become increasingly more difficult in order to simulate real-life situations.

The testing phase:

In the

testing phase,

the dog is expected to demonstrate that he’s a well-mannered pet around other dogs and people.

The ultimate object of any training is to have your dog respond reliably to your commands. Ideally, he responds to your first command. Telling your dog to do something only to have him ignore you is frustrating. Think of Buddy’s response in terms of choices. Do you want to teach Buddy to think he has a choice of responding to you? You want a dog that understands — after you have taught him — that he must do what you tell him, no matter what is happening around him. A truly trained dog listens for your voice above all distractions.

Distractions do cause Buddy to struggle to hear your voice above other things as does the genetic influence of those things that Buddy was bred to do instinctively, that which is in harmony with his basic nature. Are all dogs the same to train or does the breed or mixture of breeds make a difference? Like people, dogs are individuals and have individual needs. Understanding breed characteristics and different teaching models helps to make the job of training that much easier.

First things first: Considering your dog’s breed

Before you embark on your training program, consider what you want your dog to master, and then compare your answer to the task for which his breed was originally bred to do. Many people typically select their dogs based on appearance and without regard to breed-specific functions and behaviors. Whatever trait is in harmony with the breed of your dog is easier to teach or harder to break. For example, a Beagle uses his nose everywhere he goes. Teaching a Beagle to track or follow a scent is much easier than teaching a Greyhound to track. Greyhounds are bred to visualize movement rather than to sniff out prey.

Although most dogs can be trained to obey basic obedience commands, breed-specific traits determine the ease or difficulty with which they can be trained. You also need to consider other traits, such as energy levels and grooming needs. High-energy dogs must have outlets for all of that energy. Chapter 20 discusses problems that occur if your dog doesn’t get the exercise he needs. After all, a tired dog is a happy dog, and a tired dog has a happy owner. As for grooming, brushing, bathing, and clipping of hair coats is time consuming and expensive if you hire a professional. For a dog to be healthy, the coat and skin needs to be cared for regularly. Chapter 6 discusses grooming.

An excellent resource for breed-specific behavior and traits is The Roger Caras Dog Book: A Complete Guide to Every AKC Breed, by Roger Caras and Alton Anderson (M. Evans & Company). For each breed, the book lists on a scale from 1 to 10 the three characteristics you should pay attention to: the amount of coat care required, the amount of exercise required, and the suitability for urban/apartment life.

Training a dog: What are you really doing?

When training a dog you’re either teaching him to do something (build a behavior) or not to do something (abstain from a behavior). For example, consider the Stay command. Are you teaching your dog to remain where he is or not to move from where he is? You can look at any command and ask this question. When training a dog, you’re usually building a behavior. Look at Figure 1-2 to help understand.

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

FIGURE 1-2: The difference between training to do something and training to stop an unwanted behavior.

In the figure, the first column lists how to build a behavior. The second column lists how to abstain from a behavior. When talking about behavior in proper training terminology, positive means adding something, indicated with the plus sign (+), and negative means removing something, indicated with the minus sign (–). These two terms don’t mean good and bad which is so often associated with positive and negative.

We need to define two other words in terms of behavior:

Reinforcement

is used in the building of a behavior.

Punishment

is used in the abstaining of a behavior.

An easy way to remember this distinction is that reinforcement of something makes it stronger or builds it, and punishment tends to stop something or abstains from something. These two sections examine reinforcement and punishment in more detail.

Reinforcement: Building a behavior

When training a dog, you want the dog to do something new and different. To do that, you need to motivate him by either giving him something he wants for doing the new task or getting him to avoid something he doesn’t want for not doing it. Consider the following:

Positive reinforcement (+)

is adding something the dog wants in order to encourage him to do something he wouldn’t do on his own. For example, you want the dog to go upstairs, so you put a tiny treat on each step to induce the dog to go upstairs.

Negative reinforcement (–)

is eliciting a behavior the dog wouldn’t do on his own by making him avoid discomfort. The dog will do what is wanted because he wants to avoid the reinforcement from happening to him. For example, you want the dog to go upstairs, so someone gooses the dog’s behind to get him to go upstairs to avoid the discomfort of the pinch. At the top of the stairs, you praise him because he went upstairs.

Which approach works best? It may depend on how hungry the dog is, how much he likes the treat being used, and something more interesting isn’t going on around the corner, such as a BBQ. In the negative reinforcement approach, it may depend on how hard of a pinch is and if he doesn’t mind the pinch versus the effort it takes to climb the stairs.

Training comes with so many variables. The BBQ next door is a distraction, which is why it’s best to do early training when no distractions are around. The ability to climb the stairs or the difficulty of the task you’re teaching plays a big part on how willing your dog is. Buddy may suffer the consequences instead of climbing the stairs or jumping into a pool if water is too scary. Make sure you break the task you’re teaching into small parts to make it more easily understood and achievable.

You later can add distractions to the training after Buddy has learned the command. Distractions make the task more difficult for Buddy. When working with distractions, your dog needs to choose doing the task over being distracted. The object of distraction training is to train until your dog does the task no matter what is going on around him simply because you asked him to do so.

Punishment: Eliminating an unwanted behavior

When training a dog to stop doing an unwanted behavior, there should be a consequence. The consequence can be either adding something the dog doesn’t want or removing something he does want. Consider the following:

Positive punishment:

Positive punishment

adds an unwanted consequence (+) at the start of the bad behavior just as it begins. For example, as soon as a counter-surfing dog sniffs the edge of the counter, you can shake a bottle half-filled with pennies at the dog as an unpleasant consequence. (

Oops:

If the dog is already on the counter or eating off the counter, using the bottle with pennies is too late. The dog has been rewarded by getting the food off the counter. Because the Oops happened, the dog has learned to counter surf which is why it’s an Oops.) To eliminate the bad behavior, you must add something that the dog doesn’t want so he’ll avoid the penny shaker and not counter-surf. When the bad behavior stops, you don’t offer praise; you never want him to counter-surf, so don’t praise him for his wishing he could still get up on the counter to eat.

Negative punishment:

Negative punishment

removes something (–) that the dog wanted because the dog behaved badly. For example, if a dog is jumping up on you when you come into the house, turn your back to the dog for a moment, removing your attention that he wants because he jumped up. Turn back toward him once more, and if he jumps again, spin around, removing your front, your facial expression, and your attention.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR DOG RING-WISE BY ACCIDENT!

The term ring-wise refers to a dog who won’t perform in a show ring or in front of an audience or for friends. The dog becomes ring-wise because when a dog is performing in an obedience ring, the owner isn’t permitted to use food to aid the dog to perform. Therefore, the dog won’t perform in a ring after he has learned something because doing so isn’t worth his while. Ring-wise is an unwanted label because dogs should perform whether there is food present or not.

Adding rewards or removing rewards, praising or not praising, and adding an unpleasant consequence or stopping an unwanted consequence all make the difference in the dog's learning.

When you use food all the time while training or practicing a behavior you’re building, you’re using positive reinforcements. When you stop using the food you normally use all of the time, you’re using negative punishment because you’re taking away what the dog wants. The dog will unlearn the trick or stop giving you the behavior under these conditions in front of an audience. In other words, he’ll become ring-wise.

To avoid this problem, randomly use food. As he learns a behavior, you need to diminish his reliance on food. Instead of giving a treat every time, only give it every other or third time; skip a time once in a while and make it random. Buddy will learn to try harder to get the treat; he’ll try to do the best for you and will remain focused on you as you continue to work. He’ll learn that food comes if he keeps trying. Keep it fun, and Buddy will work always, even in front of an audience.

Identifying Six Basic Commands Every Dog Needs to Know

Every dog needs to know six basic commands: Sit, Down, Stay, Come, Heel, and Leave It. You can look at these as safety and sanity commands — your dog’s safety and your sanity. Here’s a look at each of these commands:

The Sit command:

You use the Sit command (refer to

Chapter 11

) anytime you need your dog to control himself. You can use the command to teach your dog to do the following:

Sit politely for petting instead of jumping on people

Sit at the door instead of barging ahead of you

Sit when you put his food dish on the floor instead of trying to grab it out of your hand

The Down command:

You use the Down command (check out

Chapter 11

) when you want your dog to stay in one place for prolonged periods, such as when you’re eating dinner or at the vet’s office.

The Come command:

You need to teach your dog the Come command (flip to

Chapter 10

) so you can call him when you take him for a hike, when he wants to chase a squirrel, or when it’s time to come inside.

The Stay command:

When you want to teach your dog to remain in place without moving, you teach him the Stay command (see

Chapter 11

).

The Heel command:

Or the Let’s Go command, depending on what you want, is when you want your dog to walk politely and not pull you on the leash (refer to

Chapter 12

).

The Leave It command:

You teach your dog the Leave It command (head to

Chapter 9

) so he leaves stuff alone when you don’t want him to have it.

Recognizing Factors that Influence Success

Of the many factors that influence success, you are the most important one. You’re the one who decides how to approach training and what you want your dog to learn. Your dog is your responsibility and whatever your dog does — good or bad — is under your control.

Having a good relationship with your dog

The goal of training is to create a mutually rewarding relationship — you’re happy and your dog is happy. To foster such a relationship, become aware of how many times you use your dog’s name to change or control his behavior. Your dog’s name isn’t a command and certainly isn’t a reprimand. His name is used to get his attention and is then followed by a command. See Chapter 9 for how to train Buddy to recognize his name.

Stop nagging and learn to communicate with your dog through training. Focus on teaching Buddy what you want him to do rather than on what you don’t want him to do. Above all, limit negative verbal communications, such as No,” to emergencies. Repeatedly yelling “no” isn’t the way to foster a good relationship. Instead of using “No,” use a command that you’ve taught and actually means something. Too many people use “No,” and therefore it means nothing.

A good relationship also requires spending quality time together. You can spend time with your dog by training, going for walks, playing ball, doing tricks, and so on. Chapter 17 provides some great ideas you can do with Buddy.

Owning a healthy dog

Your dog’s health has an enormous influence on his training success. A dog who doesn’t feel well won’t learn well either. First and foremost, his health depends on what you feed him. You need to feed him a high-quality food that provides the nutrients he needs (see Chapter 4).

Your dog also needs an annual checkup by your veterinarian, preferably with bloodwork. Regular bathing and grooming are similarly important. If you live in an area where there are ticks, check him regularly. Deer ticks spread Lyme disease, which can have debilitating effects on your dog. Ticks, heartworms, and internal and external parasites need to be diagnosed and treated by your veterinarian.

Making training time a priority

One of the most common complaints for not training is: “I just don’t have the time to train my dog!” First, look at training as a fun game — something you and your dog enjoy doing together. It shouldn’t be a chore. Then identify the times during the day when you interact most with your dog.

Here are some times when you can take advantage of training opportunities:

Feeding time:

If your dog is still a puppy, you feed him four, three and eventually two times a day. Each meal is a training opportunity — teach him to Sit and Stay before you put his dish down. Make him wait for a second or two, and then let him eat. You’ll be surprised how quickly he catches on to this routine. You also can put the dish down first and follow the same procedure.

When exiting and entering buildings:

If you have more than one dog, door manners are an absolute must. They’re equally important for the single-dog household. It usually takes about 30 seconds for the dog to catch on that he’s supposed to wait before you tell him it’s okay to exit (or enter). It’s a matter of consistency on your part until the behavior becomes automatic.

Chapter 14

discusses door manners.

While relaxing with your pooch:

You can teach the Leave It command while you’re watching TV. Take a few treats to your favorite chair and have fun teaching the progressions to the exercise (refer to

Chapter 9

).

During walks:

Every time you take your dog for a walk is a training opportunity to teach him to sit at the curb, to heel when passing other dogs, and to walk on a loose leash when walking beside you as you say “Let’s go” and “Heel” (head to

Chapter 12

.)

All of these commands teach your dog to focus on you and look to you for direction — and they all happen as a part of your daily routine.

Oh, the Places You and Your Pooch Can Go: Beyond the Basics

Performance events for dogs date back to the early 1930s, and the first obedience trial under American Kennel Club (AKC) rules took place in 1936. The purpose of obedience trials, as stated in the AKC Obedience Regulations, is to “demonstrate the dog’s ability to follow specified routines in the obedience ring and emphasize the usefulness of the purebred dog as a companion of man.” Now AKC allows mixed breed dogs in all of their performance events, having a purebred isn’t required to compete in AKC events. Following are some of the options you can explore if you want to take training to the next level. For all of the following, visit www.akc.org.

The Canine Good Citizen Certificate

In 1989, the AKC developed the popular Canine Good Citizen (CGC) test, a program for both purebred dogs and mixed breeds. The CGC test uses a series of exercises that demonstrate the dog’s ability to behave in an acceptable manner in public. Its purpose is to show that the dog, as a companion for all people, can be a respected member of the community and can be trained and conditioned to always behave in the home, in public places, and in the presence of other dogs in a manner that reflects credit on the dog. (For more details on this test, go to Chapter 25.)

Now AKC has expanded the CGC to include the Urban and Farm and Advanced CGC tests. Your dog also can earn a Temperament Testing. AKC is just one of the National Dog Clubs though it is the largest and most well-known.

In many areas you can find classes to help you train your dog and prepare the two of you for the CGC.

AKC S.T.A.R. puppy program

The goal of the AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy program is similar to the Canine Good Citizen program, except that it’s aimed at puppies. Just like the CGC program, the AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy program includes a Responsible Dog Owner Pledge as well as a basic training program in which puppies up to 1 year of age are eligible to participate. After you attend a basic training class locally, your puppy must take a test. Look on the internet for information on dog training in your area. When the puppy passes the test, he receives a certificate and a medal.

AKC tricks titles

AKC offers multiple titles for your dog as he learns and performs different levels of tricks. From Novice to Performer and Elite Performer and several in between. There is no limit to getting your dog to become a star and earn a title to prove it. See Chapter 17 to get you started.

More than training: Understanding how dogs help people

Man and dog have been together for a long time. It didn’t take man long to recognize the dog’s potential as a valuable helper. Originally, the dog’s main jobs were guarding, hauling, herding, and hunting. Over time, more jobs were added to the canine’s resume; now dogs perform an amazing variety of tasks. These tasks fall into four broad categories: service dogs, detection dogs, assistance dogs, and companion dogs.