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Everything you need to know about your playful new pet
Thinking of getting a ferret? It’s not unusual—millions of people worldwide keep ferrets as pets, and they’ve been domesticated for around 2,500 years! While they’re quiet for a lot of the day (catching up on important beauty sleep), when they’re awake, they’re lively, affectionate, and curious—and require lots of quality interaction with their humans. And that’s why a happy ferret is a well-trained one, whose owner knows everything there is to know about its needs!
Ferrets For Dummies, 3rd Edition is here to make sure you become just that kind of owner, fully equipped to give your little friend the best possible home. It’s packed with practical information on feeding, housing, health, medical care, and much more. You’ll also find the latest on diet, dental hygiene, common ailments, and how to build an enjoyable and engaging environment for your smart, energetic new pet. There’s even a section on how to get to know your ferret properly (spotting those little mood swings) and how to introduce it to play well with friends and family.
Whether you have a jill (female), a hob (male), or a full “business” of ferrets (several), Ferrets For Dummies helps you ferret out whatever you need to know—and ensure that your fuzzy new pal is a healthy, happy member of the household.
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Seitenzahl: 833
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021
Ferrets For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com
Copyright © 2021 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2021930606
ISBN 978-1-119-72083-6 (pbk); ISBN 978-1-119-72084-3 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-119-72085-0 (ebk)
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Introduction
About This Book
Foolish Assumptions
Icons Used in This Book
Beyond the Book
Where to Go from Here
Part 1: Is a Ferret Right for You?
Chapter 1: What You Need to Know About Ferrets
First Question: What Is a Ferret?
Giving the Ferret a Physical: Examining Fuzzy Characteristics
Exercise and Time Considerations — Yours and Your Fuzzy’s
Taking a Whiff of the Odor Factor
Getting the Dish on Financial Matters
Extreme Cage Makeover: Providing the Space They Need
Facing the Challenges of Ferret-Proofing Your Home
Ferrets and Kids
Ferrets and Babies
Ferrets and Other Household Pets
Leaping over the Legal Hurdles
Chapter 2: Understanding What Ferrets Are (And Aren’t)
Yes, Ferrets Are Domesticated
Getting to Know Fuzzies in the Past and Present
Spotlighting the Sport of Ferreting
Picturing the Physical Appearance of the Domestic Ferret
Not Just Another Color: The Black-Footed Ferret
Chapter 3: Ferrets and the Law: Licensing and Other Issues
“A License? But He Can’t Even Reach the Pedals!”
Ferret-Free Zones and Why They Exist
Knowing the Law and the Consequences of Breaking It
Part 2: Finding Your Ferret and Hanging Up the Welcome Hammock
Chapter 4: On the Tail of a New Carpet Shark (Um, Ferret)
Ferret Shopping 101
Are You in the Market for a New or Used Ferret?
Should You Pre-Order Blue or Pink Bedding (Get a Boy or Girl)?
Pitting Altered versus Whole Furballs
“You Want
How
Many Ferrets?”
Where to Find Your Ferret
Getting a Vet
Chapter 5: Home Sweet Home: Preparing Your Ferret’s Quarters
Setting Up Fuzzy’s Cage
Making Your Ferret’s Bed
Setting Your Ferret’s Table
Designing Your Ferret’s Bathroom
Acquiring Accessories and Other Stuff Fuzzy Needs
Chapter 6: Ferret-Proofing Your Home
Inspecting Your Home for Ferret Hazards
Changing Some of Your Home Habits
Chapter 7: Introducing Fuzzy to His New Family
Ferrets as Social Animals
You and Your New Ferret: Making the Most of Your Friendship
Fuzzy Meets Fluffy and Fido
Preparing Your Child for the Ferret
Fuzzy Meets Fuzzy: Adding A New Ferret to Your Family
Heading Off Stranger Danger
Part 3: Basic Ferret Care and Feeding
Chapter 8: Filling Your Ferret’s Belly
Water, Water, Everywhere
Ferrets as Diners
Feeding the Traditional Commercial Diet
Serving Up an Alternative Diet
Supplementing Your Fuzzy’s Diet
Savoring Treat Time!
Chapter 9: Cleaning Time: Not All Ferret Fun and Games
Cleaning House for a Cozy Cage
Scrub a Dub Fuzz: Navigating Bath Time
Caring for Those Little Ears
Nailing Down the Manicure
Chewing On Chomper Maintenance
Breaking Out the Hairbrush
Odor Control Tips 101 — A Summary
Chapter 10: Enrichment: Yours and Your Ferret’s
Why Is Enrichment Necessary?
What Does Enrichment Do for Ferrets?
Understanding Your Ferret’s Senses
Recommended Enrichment Activities for You and Your Fuzzy
Finding Your Own Enrichment at Ferret Clubs
Participating in Regional Shows, Club Shows, and Competitions
Facebook and Other Internet Sources
Chapter 11: Have Ferret, May Travel
Fuzzy Is Going on Vacation!
On the Road or Flying High
Leaving Your Furball in Good Hands
Ferrets as Emotional Support Animals (ESAs)
Part 4: Tackling Your Ferret’s Health Issues and Treatments
Chapter 12: Setting Up Your Ferret’s Health Plan: Vets and First-Aid Kits
Selecting Your Ferret’s Veterinarian
Putting Your Vet to Work with Vaccinations and Checkups
Stocking Your Ferret First-Aid Kit
Ensuring Emergency Preparedness
Chapter 13: Helping Your Hurt Ferret: First-Aid Basics
Behaviors You Usually Don’t Need to Worry About
Pain Management and Care
Setting Up Fuzzy’s Home Hospital Room
Feeding the Sick or Debilitated Ferret
Handling Actual Emergencies
Chapter 14: Ferreting Out Ferret Pests
Booting External Critters That Go Bite in the Night
Battling the Internal Bugaboos That Threaten Your Fuzzy
Chapter 15: Handling Viruses, Infections, and Other Conditions and Illnesses
Gastrointestinal (GI) Diseases
Dental Problems
Heart Disease
Influenza (The “Flu”)
Disseminated Idiopathic Myofasciitis
Urinary Tract Problems
Eye Problems
Aleutian Disease Virus (ADV)
Canine Distemper
Diabetes Mellitus
Enlarged Spleen (Splenomegaly)
Hairballs
Rabies
Ulcers
Chapter 16: Finding and Treating the Big C and Other Lumps
Adrenal Gland Disease
Insulinoma
Lymphosarcoma (Lymphoma)
Chordomas
Itchy Growths: Skin Tumors
Chapter 17: Saying Goodbye When the Time Comes
Letting Go of Your Family Member
Learning from Fuzzy’s Death with a Postmortem
Selecting Fuzzy’s Final Burrowing Place
Grieving for Your Lost Fuzzy
Helping a Surviving Ferret Cope
Part 5: Ferret Psychology 101: Behavior and Training
Chapter 18: Understanding What Fuzzy Is Trying to Tell You
Say What? Speaking Ferret-ese
You Make Me Feel Like Dancin’! Interpreting Your Ferret’s Jig
Decoding Your Ferret’s Body Language
“Why Does My Ferret Do
That?
” Understanding Other Fuzzy Behaviors
Chapter 19: Putting Your Ferret through Basic Training: Easy as 1-2-3?
Just Say NO to Biting
This Way to the Bathroom
Harnessing Your Fuzzy for a Walk
Chapter 20: Dealing with the Behaviorally Challenged Ferret
Understanding Your Dracula in Fuzzy’s Clothing
Socializing Your Biting Beast
Part 6: Breeding Ferrets: The Facts, Fallacies, and Plain Ol’ Hard Work
Chapter 21: Should You Breed Your Ferret? Looking at the Big Picture
What It Takes to Be a Responsible Breeder
Avoiding a Need for More Shelters
Chapter 22: Unmasking the Details of Ferret Love
Fine-Tuning the Organs
What Happens If Your Unaltered Ferret Isn’t Bred?
Mothering the Mom-to-Be
Heading Off to the Delivery Room
Some Problems You May Face after Birth
Chapter 23: From Birth to Bundle of Energy: Walking a Fuzzy’s Timeline
Fuzzy Infancy: Birth to 3 Weeks
Furball Toddlerhood: 3 to 6 Weeks
The Terrible Fuzzy Twos: 6 to 10 Weeks
Adolescence Already? 10 to 15 Weeks
Part 7: The Part of Tens
Chapter 24: Ten Amazing and Creative Ferret-Proofing Hacks
Pool Noodles Be Gone!
Up, Up, and Over — Not!
Cardboard Cut-Outs
Yule Get Hung Up on Christmas
Dual Purpose Door Blocker
Couch Cures
Fixing Floors and Revamping Ramps
A Room with a View
Wired for Trouble
Velcro to the Rescue
Chapter 25: Ten Recipes that Make Your Ferret Go Mmmmmm
Hobbit Delights
Karen’s Brew
Raw Soupy Recipe
Barb’s Recipe for Hungover Ferrets
Ferret Bland Diet
Tui’s Chewies
Family Dinner
Mickey’s Meatloaf
Clyde’s Seaside Chunks
Bluto’s BARF
Index
About the Author
Supplemental Images
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
Chapter 8
TABLE 8-2 Nutritional Composition of Invertebrate Prey
TABLE 8-1 Nutritional Composition of Vertebrate Prey
Chapter 12
TABLE 12-1 Ferret vet tests
Chapter 13
TABLE 13-1 Poop and Possible Related Conditions
Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: They may look like rodents, but ferrets are actually carnivores.
FIGURE 1-2: A ferret’s skeleton, displaying the ferret’s long spine.
FIGURE 1-3: Male ferrets are bulkier, with the location of the penis resembling...
Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: Here’s a working ferret teamed up with a human hunter.
FIGURE 2-2: A black-footed ferret.
Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: Ferrets can make good companions for each other and usually play we...
Chapter 5
FIGURE 5-1: Snap bolts can keep your ferret safely confined when you can’t supe...
FIGURE 5-2: Most ferrets greatly appreciate multilevel cages.
FIGURE 5-3: Use a C-clamp to secure your ferret’s bowl, and you’ll come to beli...
FIGURE 5-4: Water bottles should be secured from outside the cage.
FIGURE 5-5: A ferret in a low-sided litter box at the bottom of the cage.
FIGURE 5-6: A typical ferret hammock that can be hung inside the cage.
FIGURE 5-7: Leashes and harnesses keep your ferret safe outside and when meetin...
FIGURE 5-8: Pet carriers should be securely built with narrow bars to keep the ...
Chapter 7
FIGURE 7-1: Demonstrating proper ways to hold a ferret.
Chapter 9
FIGURE 9-1: Lather your ferret’s entire body before rinsing, being careful not ...
FIGURE 9-2: The quick contains blood vessels, so be sure not to cut a nail too ...
Chapter 11
FIGURE 11-1: Types of service animals.
Chapter 16
FIGURE 16-1: Female ferret with swollen vulva caused by adrenal gland disease.
Chapter 18
FIGURE 18-1: The ferret dance of joy.
Chapter 23
FIGURE 23-1: These 3-week-old ferrets aren’t much bigger than a tube of lipstic...
FIGURE 23-2: These 8-week-old kits are just about ready for their new homes.
Chapter 24
FIGURE 24-1: Rolled up towel between a typical washer and dryer
FIGURE 24-2: Simple PVC will prevent your ferret from escaping this pen
FIGURE 24-3: Japanese handsaws are sharp, but they do the trick!
FIGURE 24-4: Cut lengthwise and draw a line as a guide.
FIGURE 24-5: Contain just about any carpet shark with this hack!
FIGURE 24-6: Defying gravity is not limited to ferrets!
FIGURE 24-7: Steel screw eye hooks can be found at most hardware stores.
FIGURE 24-8: Runners beneath doors help to keep carpet sharks from tunneling be...
FIGURE 24-9: This easy-to-remove guillotine door is perfect to spy on your ferr...
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Table of Contents
Begin Reading
Index
About the Author
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Numerous people have told me that a true love for animals may be genetically predisposed. Maybe this is true. Or maybe some animals just tug at our heartstrings a little harder than others. I believe both statements to apply to me. Although my love for animals may be termed “genetics” by the white-coated scientists in those sterile laboratories, I prefer to call what was passed on to me a blessing. I knew the moment my eyes locked onto a bouncing, chattering ferret that I’d been hooked by something mysteriously fascinating. Each one of my ferrets has provided me with much happiness and joy over the years. Even though all my ferrets, young and old, share in common the ability to make me break out in laughter with their habitual silliness, each one is a unique little fuzzball. And they continuously amaze me with their intelligence and social play.
Ferrets are fun and mischievous. They’re cunning looters. They can steal and break your heart. They come in all sorts of colors and sizes. Ferrets can get into the littlest cracks and holes, both in your home and in your soul. They’re bound to make you break out in uncontrollable laughter at least once a day. They steal any chance they can to dance and dook and chatter about. And when they’re through amazing you with their antics, most ferrets love nothing more than to curl up somewhere warm with you and snooze the rest of the day away.
Sound like the perfect pet? Not necessarily. As a shelter director, my motto is “Not all animals make good pets for people, and not all people make good parents for pets.” No two households, people, or lifestyles are the same. Although ferrets can bring you plenty of joy, they also can be quite challenging at times.
That’s why I wrote this book about these amazing creatures. If you don’t yet have a ferret, this book can help you decide whether a fuzzy is for you. And if you already have a ferret, this book can help you give him the best possible care. To boot, this book offers practical health and medical information. And everything from cover to cover is in cut-to-the-chase format — only what you need to know, in good ol’ plain English.
You have plenty to discover — and a lot of responsibility to take on — when you decide to adopt a ferret. Pet ownership isn’t something to take lightly. You should always make a lifetime commitment when deciding to bring any pet into your home. This book helps you gain better insight into what’s required so that you can make the right choices for your lifestyle.
This book doesn’t require a read from cover to cover (of course, you can read it that way if you want to). Instead, this book is a reference guide. If you have a particular topic you want to research, you can turn right to the chapter that covers the topic.
Each chapter is divided into sections, and each section contains pieces of info about some part of ferret keeping — things like this:
Is a ferret the right pet for you?
How do I pick a healthy ferret?
What steps do I take to ferret-proof my home?
How do I set up my ferret’s cage?
What medical conditions require a vet’s care?
In writing Ferrets For Dummies, 3rd Edition, I made some assumptions about my readers:
You’re one of the thousands and thousands of people out there who has a nagging child or spouse who whines daily about wanting to own a ferret. Or maybe you’ve had your emotions kidnapped by a ferret, and you want to make sure that a ferret is the pet for you before you adopt him.
Perhaps you’re one of those lucky folks who already owns a ferret, and you want to know how to properly care for him.
You may be a volunteer or employee at a ferret shelter, humane society, veterinarian clinic, or pet shop. You’ve been given (or have volunteered for) the task of ferret-keeper, and you want to know about caring for these fantastic furballs.
You may be a “seasoned” ferret owner who’s soon to discover that this book covers topics that you can’t find in other ferret books, such as behavior challenges, alternative diet, and saying goodbye.
You may be one of the many who realize the growing need for — and importance of — enrichment in the lives of our ferrets and value the extensive information provided by this book on enrichment.
You may be a veterinarian who wants to know as much about the ferrets you treat — including basic history — as you do about the people who bring them in.
Whatever made you pick up this book, hold onto your hat, because you’re in for the thrill of a lifetime!
To help you navigate this book full of great information, I include icons that point out helpful hints, fun facts, and things you’d be wise to keep in mind. In a nutshell, the icons do the following:
This icon provides tidbits of info that can make your life as a ferret mom or dad a little easier. Many of these tips were discovered by people, including myself, who learned some ferret-owning facts the hard way.
This icon points out interesting and sometimes technical ferret facts — some of which I stumbled upon while researching for this book. Not all this stuff makes for good dinner conversation, but you’re never too old to learn. Consider this information interesting but nonessential.
Don’t glaze over the information accompanying this icon. Paying attention to what’s here can save your ferret’s life or prevent injury and illness — perhaps even major vet bills.
The paragraph(s) accompanying this icon points out important stuff that you should store in an easily accessed part of your brain.
You can find a little more helpful ferrets-related information on https://www.dummies.com, where you can peruse this book's Cheat Sheet. To get this handy resource, go to the website and type Ferrets For Dummies Cheat Sheet in the Search box.
If you’re thinking about getting a ferret, or you want to know how to get a healthy one, start at the beginning with Parts 1 and 2. If you already have a ferret, you can delve into whatever chapter you want, hopping around as issues or problems arise, or as time permits.
Bottom line? Enjoy this book as it was meant to be enjoyed. Remember: People learn new things every day about ferrets. And the best teachers are our ferrets themselves. Don’t be afraid to ask questions from the experts, such as your vet. Doing so is well worth the time, and it makes ferret parenting a much more pleasant experience. Besides, asking is the only way you can learn.
Part 1
IN THIS PART …
Discover what a ferret is and isn’t, from colors and patterns to wild and domestic classifications.
Uncover the secrets of ferrets in the past and present.
You’ll get the lowdown on the legal aspects of owning ferrets.
Chapter 1
IN THIS CHAPTER
Reviewing the description of a ferret
Listing the basic ferret info, from color to odor
Understanding the fuzzy’s exercise needs
Addressing the financial and legal matters that ferrets bring
Incorporating the ferret into your home
Introducing your fuzzy to other kids and pets
To the undiscerning eye, she looks a little rat-like. But she acts and moves more like a cat. Sometimes, she fools you and becomes quite dog-like. She resembles some animals you see roaming your backyard or other curious critters featured on a nature television show. And at some point, you’ll witness some people in a pet store pointing at a cage full of them, inquiring, “Good heavens, what in the world are those? Opossums?” I think not!
The lovable animal I refer to is the ferret, of course. She belongs to a colorful clan of creatures and often gets mistaken for different animals. In this chapter, I tell you all about the ferret’s vast family, his close and distant relatives, and his interesting history. (And for you technical readers, I throw in all sorts of Latin lingo that may confuse even the professionals out there.)
The ferret’s scientific name as of press time, preferred mostly by North-American scientists, is Mustela putorius furo. This name exists because of the beliefs concerning the function and nature of the ferret. For those of you who don’t speak Ferret Latin, Mustela means “weasel” or “mouse killer.” Putorius is derived from the Latin word putoris, meaning “stench,” and furo is derived from the Latin word furis, meaning “thief.” The word ferret itself is derived from the Latin word furonem, which also means “thief.” Put all this together and you have one little “stinky mouse-killing thief.” Although the historical ferret may have lived up to this dubious title, today’s ferret is more often than not a cuddly little furball. For all practical purposes, I fondly refer to my ferrets as Ferretus majorus pleasorus in the comfort of my nonscientific home!
Some scientists who agree with me are now challenging the beliefs about ferrets — particularly some of the DNA evidence, as used in some paternity tests. The white coats doing most of the ancestral and DNA research are Europeans who prefer to call the ferret Mustela furo. Currently, several papers exist that support Mustela furo. The scientific name of our domestic ferret may very well change in the near future.
And before you actually run out and get your new family member, you must consider all the things your ferret will require of you — space, safety, and so on — so I cover these things here as well. After all, how can you promise to be a good mom or dad to your fuzzy if you don’t even know what goes into good ferret parenting? Taking an honest look at the requirements can mean the difference between living happily with a new family member and taking on a major, unwelcome chore.
Although ferrets may look rodent-like with their long, pointed snouts and ticklish whiskers (see Figure 1-1), they’re not rodents at all. Ferrets come from the order Carnivora, which simply means “meat or flesh eating.” This order encompasses a huge group of animals, from Fifi the common lap dog to the mighty African lion. Within the order Carnivora, ferrets belong to the family Mustelidae, which they proudly share with such bold critters as the badger, wolverine, pine marten, and otters. Included in that family are both domesticated ferrets and ferret-like wild animals such as the weasel, European polecat, steppe polecat, black-footed ferret, and mink.
FIGURE 1-1: They may look like rodents, but ferrets are actually carnivores.
The word ferret is appropriately derived from the Latin word Furonem, which means “thief.” As a new ferret owner, you’ll quickly realize just how thieving your new family member can be. As cute as this endearing trait may be at times, it has its downsides. It once took me over a day to find all the contents of my purse, which I foolishly left open in the presence of roving ferrets.
Many ferret owners call their pets a variety of nicknames. Some of the names that I use throughout this book are fuzzy, carpet shark, snorkeler, furball, and fuzzbutt. I know that many more terms of endearment exist out there. Don’t get confused!
Before you bring a new fuzzy home or in the early stages of your ferret parenthood, you need to become familiar with a ferret’s physical inventory. When I say physical, I pretty much mean all the general stuff regarding a ferret’s physical characteristics, from his paws and claws to his weight and remarkable (and not-so-remarkable) senses.
Take a look at Figure 1-2 if you really want to get down to the bones, literally, of examining a ferret’s physical makeup! For information on ferret coats and colors, see Chapter 2.
FIGURE 1-2: A ferret’s skeleton, displaying the ferret’s long spine.
In the following sections, I introduce you to the physical characteristics of the ferret. My version of a ferret physical also covers other tidbits you should know, like color combos and life span, because knowing how to accessorize your fuzzy and how long you’ll be caring for him is important.
Since publishing the second edition of Ferrets For Dummies in 2007, I would have expected the six-to-eight-year life span of ferrets to have increased, yet I find it has stayed the same or even decreased slightly. Although I’ve still heard many stories of ferrets that have lived for up to nine or ten years, barring any unforeseen mishaps, my belief remains that a ferret’s environment — his caging, disease, stress (including overcrowding), diet, and so on — plays a role in his short life span. As ferret owners discover more about the ferret and realize how important husbandry and the reduction of stress are, they might possibly see that increase in ferret life span within their own lifetime.
For now, though, you can only do your best to make your ferret’s quality of life top-notch. At 1 year old, your fuzzy is considered full grown. At 3 to 4, he’s considered middle-aged, and at 5 to 6 years of age, he’s considered a geriatric, or an old fert! At this time, she may begin to slowly lose weight and start encountering debilitating illnesses. This is when things get tough and you’re faced with difficult choices (see Chapter 17 for advice on saying goodbye to your fuzzy).
As heartbreaking as it is, ferrets are prone to many diseases and may be genetically or medically flawed. Like most companion pets, whose life spans are short compared to humans, ferrets’ lives are compacted into only six to eight oh-so-short years. The average human has 65 to 70 years to experience what a ferret experiences in under a decade. The ferret is an amazing trooper with a tremendous fight for life, and you can certainly do your part to help. See Chapters 15 and 16 for more on the conditions that can afflict your fuzzy and for tips on how to care for him.
A carpet shark’s size makes him an ideal pet for both the apartment dweller and the homeowner. As is the case with some mammal species, unneutered male ferrets typically measure up to two times larger than females — called sexual dimorphism. There is a notable weight difference in the head and torso, where the male is wider and less dainty.
A typical altered female ferret weighs between a slim ¾ of a pound (0.3 kg) and a whopping 2½ pounds (1.1 kg) — and that’s a big girl. Neutered males normally weigh 2 to 3½ pounds (0.9 to 1.6 kg), and unaltered males may weigh in at 4 to 6 pounds (1.8 to 2.7 kg) or more. In tape-measure terms, without the tail, female ferrets are between 13 and 14 inches (33 and 35.5 cm) long, and males generally measure between 15 and 16 inches (38 and 40.6 cm). A ferret’s tail is 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10 cm) long. See Figure 1-3.
FIGURE 1-3: Male ferrets are bulkier, with the location of the penis resembling belly buttons. Females are smaller and have vulval openings near the anus.
Ferrets are kind of like humans in that they tend to bulk up in the winter. Sometimes ferrets gain 40 percent of their weight at this time of the year and then lose it in the spring (as do humans, right?). This isn’t always the rule, though; some ferrets always seem skinny, and others are belly draggers all year round. Could it have something to do with health and/or exercise? Better check it out. (Parts 3 and 4 of this book cover various issues related to exercise and health.)
On each of a ferret’s soft paws is a set of five non-retractable claws or nails designed for digging and grasping. Nature designed the nails to stay there for a ferret’s benefit and survival, so you should never remove them. Frequent clipping, about every 7–10 days, is recommended (see Chapter 9 for more on grooming tips and Chapter 6 for more on ferret-proofing your home).
Declawing your ferret is a big, fat no-no. For a ferret, declawing is a painful, mutilating surgery with way more risks than benefits. They need their claws for digging, grasping, walking, and playing. The base of the claw gives the ferret’s foot added strength to support his weight. Removing the claws causes foot problems and/or pain when walking. If you think you’ll be too lazy to clip your ferret’s nails, you must recognize that a ferret isn’t the pet for you.
Like all carnivores (see the first section in this chapter), ferrets have large canine teeth that can be rather intimidating. A ferret’s teeth usually hang lower than his lip flap and are in full view. Although any animal with a mouth can and will bite under certain circumstances, I’ve found the biting ferret to be the exception rather than the rule. Most ferrets use their canine teeth to show off to their friends and to eat. When a ferret nips, she does it out of fear or play. An occasional warning nip may be a sign of the ferret’s disapproval of one thing or another. (See Chapter 3 for more about the laws governing ferret bites.)
In this day and age, you would be hard pressed to find a veterinarian who would ethically lean on the side of declawing or defanging a ferret anyway. And many US and European governmental authorities have actually banned these mutilating practices on all animals.
Make no doubt about it, the bite of a disgruntled ferret is painful and can draw blood. Take measures to make sure bites don’t happen, and unless medically warranted for your ferret’s health, don’t alter his canine teeth; leave them right where they belong.
A ferret’s senses vary in degree of acuteness (see Chapter 10 for more on ferret senses). Like human infants, a ferret’s eyesight isn’t that well-developed, and his ability to distinguish color is limited. A ferret can only see some reds and blues. Make no mistake about it, though: Even the most restricted ferret can and will find any object he wasn’t intended to find (and his stubby little legs will help him steal the objects back to his hidey-hole). In a sense, all ferrets have sticky fingers: If they find it, it belongs to them. If they want it, it’s theirs. You get the idea.
A ferret’s sense of smell is far superior to a human’s, and his little paw pads are more sensitive to the touch. Also, a fuzzy’s sense of hearing is remarkable. If you open a bag of chips, for example, be assured that your ferret on the other side of your house will hear the bag opening and come a-begging. So, remember to whisper when discussing sensitive issues such as neutering or going on vacation.
Have I mentioned that ferrets have another sense? They seem to understand us humans. Scary!
When determining whether a ferret is the perfect pet for you, get introspective and look at your lifestyle. Ferrets are interactive and intelligent pets that need a lot of attention. If you want a pet that you can keep in a cage and look at every once in a while, you must accept that a ferret isn’t for you. Fish are good when left in their tanks. Ferrets, on the other hand, are exploratory characters that aim to please their humans. Okay, they really aim to please themselves, but they tickle us pink in the process.
Ferrets need a lot of exercise and attention to be happy and healthy. Plan on allowing your ferret to spend no less than four hours a day playing in a safe, stimulating, enriched, ferret-proof environment. If you leave a fuzzy in a cage or unattended to too often, it actually leads to boredom and stress, which can in turn lead to serious health issues. Trust me, it will do you a world of good to get down on the floor with your ferret and let out your inner fuzzy. (For more information about enriching your ferret’s life, check out Chapter 10.)
If you don’t think you can provide your ferret with the proper amount of exercise and attention, and that’s your only ferret hang-up, perhaps you should consider adopting two ferrets. Ferrets live to play and they play to live, so if you can’t be an interactive human all the time, get your fuzzy a playmate. Besides, whereas one furball is intensely amusing, two (or more) are downright hysterical. In fact, I recommend getting two or three no matter what (see Chapter 4 for more on this advice).
If you let him, a healthy caged ferret will sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. Does this make these ferrets nocturnal or diurnal? Neither. I think they should get a category all to themselves. How about ferturnal? Most weasels are considered nocturnal, although they may change their sleeping patterns depending on habitat, competition, and food availability. Like their polecat relatives, healthy, free-roaming ferrets with little cage time should sleep only 15 to 18 hours a day. Strive to make your ferrets as active as possible.
Ferrets tend to be crepuscular, which means they usually pep up and come out at dusk and dawn, similar to deer. However, ferrets change their activity levels to meet their humans’ schedules. For example, if you’re a night owl and sleep all day, your ferrets will be night owls too. Just as weasels will adapt to best suit their survival needs, ferrets can be diurnal, nocturnal, or crepuscular. What sleeping patterns your ferret adopts is up to you! (For tips on your ferret’s cage and bedding for sleep time, see Chapter 5.)
All ferrets come equipped with a really “neat” scenting mechanism. Located just outside the ferret’s anus on both sides are anal sacs filled with foul-smelling fluid. All carnivores have these sacs, including the beloved canine. A ferret’s system is quite different from the human scenting mechanism, though, which is more often than not triggered by disagreeable food or the simple desire to offend. When excited, overstimulated, scared, or angry, your ferret will, without aim, discharge his secret weapon, called poofing. But the ferret’s odor, although intentionally disturbing, rapidly dispels — just like yours! The following sections deal with a couple issues you face when playing the odor factor.
The majority of ferrets I’ve run across have been descented at a very early age — before they reach the pet trade. In other words, vets have removed their anal glands. Most ferrets are commercially raised in fuzzy farms where neutering and descenting occur before the ferrets can be shipped out. As a new owner, you have no real way to tell whether a ferret has been descented, however. The moment of truth comes at the moment of nasal impact.
Personally I don’t recommend descenting ferrets. I find it an unnecessary and potentially harmful procedure. However, some ferret owners can’t or don’t want to tolerate the rare “poof” of odor expelled from the undescented ferret. Finding a vet who’s performed this procedure before may be a challenge, but most experienced ferret vets may be willing to take on the challenge and should do just fine. Don’t be surprised if you find that this surgery doesn’t cut down on the odor as much as you thought it would. The anal glands are not the problem! Ferrets are musky critters with oil glands in their skin. And unneutered ferrets can be a wee bit smelly. Personally, I find the scent lovely!
“Despite information to the contrary, ferret farms continue to descent ferrets at a very young age to decrease their odor. Unfortunately, this has little effect on their natural odor and can lead to complications later in life, including difficulty with elimination, pain, and/or infection. As a ferret veterinarian, I only recommend this surgery if it is medically necessary to improve the health of the patient.” According to Karen Purcell DVM, author of Essentials of Ferrets: A Guide for Practitioners (AAHA Press) and veterinarian in Roxboro, NC. Unless medically necessitated, I suggest that you leave your ferret be and pay more heed to his emotional state so you can control the odor. Some people actually like the smell. I myself love it. Those of you who have roommates will surely agree that ferret odor is more often the lesser of the two evils.
If you should happen upon a ferret with full scent capabilities in your search for a pet, take note, though: Descenting isn’t necessary for living happily with a ferret. In fact, descenting is a North-American practice and is illegal in many European countries, who consider it unethical. The ferret’s scent glands may be an important behavioral and social tool. Perhaps they use scent as a means of identifying one ferret from another or determining the health status of another ferret. Scent may also indicate where a ferret is in its breeding cycle.
The ferret’s odor is unique and requires regular maintenance for odor control. You need to change his oil and rotate his tires every 3,000 miles, so to speak. Frequently changing his litter and bedding is the best way to control odor (see Chapter 9).
Bathing your ferret often results in a stinkier fuzzy because his oil glands go into overdrive to replace the oils you washed down the drain. I only bathe my ferrets a couple times a year, and that seems plenty.
There’s always some odor involved with ferrets. Even the most well-cared-for ferret will have a slight musky smell. On average, the odor is no worse than a dog’s smell; however, people’s tolerances for smell are different. Obviously, if you let your ferret go for very long periods without a bath or if you become too lax with changing his litter box and bedding, his smell will become stronger. And keep in mind that poor diet and stress also contribute to the odor of your ferret.
Ferrets are expensive pets. Whether you purchase your baby at a pet store, adopt her from a shelter, or have a neighbor leave her on your doorstep (see Chapter 4), you need to fork over not only emotion but also money. Investing in a ferret family member has many intangible rewards, but you must be willing to put out the cash when necessary to keep her safe and sound. The following list outlines the expenses you’ll incur after adopting your fuzzy:
Basic accessories:
This category includes such things as cages, toys, bedding, bowls, litter boxes, treats, and so on.
Food:
Ferrets need high-quality ferret food, which is more costly than low-quality food. And the more ferrets you have, the more they’ll eat. Are you willing to pay more for a high-quality food to keep your ferrets as healthy as possible? (See
Chapter 8
for more on feeding your ferret.)
Neutering or spaying:
Your new baby may or may not be altered, but unless you plan on breeding, which I caution you to think twice about, get him altered as soon as possible. Besides being the responsible thing to do, it’ll cut down on the odor.
Annual vet trips:
Besides regular checkups (see
Chapter 12
), your ferret should receive annual rabies and distemper vaccinations, as well as heartworm preventives (vaccinations may be required by law; see
Chapter 3
).
As your ferret ages, the chances of him developing an illness or disease increases. Often, this means more frequent trips to the vet for special tests and/or medication. You owe it to any pet you have to provide quality medical care at all times.
The dollars can add up. Think about starting a pet fund, in which you put aside a few dollars each week in case an emergency comes up and you fall a little short financially. Also, pet insurance is becoming more and more popular among ferret owners. Do your research (starting with your veterinarian) to see whether insurance is an avenue to pursue. Either way, do yourself a favor and put aside some funds if you can.
You shouldn’t bring a ferret to your home before you’ve completely and adequately set up his house for his arrival. Even though ferrets make great pets for both the house and apartment, you shouldn’t compromise one luxury: His cage should be roomy, and you should make adequate room for it. (See Chapter 5 for more on creating a ferret cage.)
If your only available space is a wall that’s supporting the world’s largest beer-bottle collection, you should consider parting with the bottles or packing them up. Even if you could squeeze in both the ferret and the beer bottles, doing so wouldn’t be a good idea. Your carpet shark could knock them over and break them, or your thief could manage to drag a bottle or two back to his secret hidey-hole!
Ferrets are trouble magnets. From digging up the plants and carpeting, to stealing your stuff, to terrorizing the cats and dogs — if something can be messed with, a ferret will mess with it.
I compare this vigorous playtime madness to a human toddler on a double espresso. To combat the madness and protect your ferret, you need to ferret-proof your home — or at least the areas the little bugger has access to. It may be as simple as moving the houseplants, or it may be as involved as boarding up the cracks and crevices under your cabinets. Nature designed the ferret to search out your ferret-proofing failures. Therefore, ferret-proofing is a continuous activity as your curious fuzzy finds more and more flaws.
If you even question whether something is unsafe, it’s probably unsafe. Otherwise, you wouldn’t give it a second thought. Expect the impossible, prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. What actually happens will probably be somewhere in between. For tips on how to make your home safe for your ferret, head to Chapter 6.
Ferrets can make good pets for single people living in apartments and for families in homes. I don’t like to stereotype human children as a whole by saying this pet or that pet isn’t good with kids. Usually, it’s the other way around. Many kids aren’t good around certain types of pets, although many are great. I was taking care of pets before I was even 10 years old, and I did so with great pleasure and responsibility. I didn’t mind getting scratched or bitten, and I didn’t mind the cage cleaning. I was an exception to most kids.
When it comes to smaller children such as toddlers, I worry as much about the ferret’s safety as I do the child’s. Ferrets are fast and move unpredictably, much like toddlers. The two in combination can result in disaster. Crushing injuries, such as a ferret being accidentally stepped on or squeezed, can lead to the ferret being injured, paralyzed, or even killed. A ferret in pain will often bite and injure whomever is in his path whether it is you or your toddler.
Ferrets can be playfully nippy and squirmy, and they require a lot of attention and care. Most young children can and will activate the hyper switch in ferrets. And don’t be fooled if your kid promises to be 100-percent responsible for his new ferret. You must evaluate your family members honestly before bringing a ferret home and expect that you’ll be the main caretaker. See Chapter 7 for more on this topic.
In all my years of owning ferrets, exotics, and other pets, I have always addressed the topic of ferrets and babies rather head-on in an opinionated manner. It takes only a split-second for an interaction between a human baby and a ferret (or other pet) to go horribly wrong! A grasping baby can innocently squeeze a ferret, who may bite out of pain and or be seriously injured. I have read or heard about numerous seemingly unprovoked attacks in which small infants were injured by ferrets, some even during closely supervised encounters. It might be that babies smell funny, move funny, or even sound a bit funny, and although the majority of pet ferrets may be okay with meeting a human baby, why risk putting any ferret or baby in that position?
All animals have unique personalities, so to assume that one pet will get along with another is to be overly optimistic — an attitude that could lead to heartbreak. Multi-species interaction is a complex issue. I simply can’t guarantee that your new fuzzy will get along with your other pets. And think about how your other pets might feel when they smell the little carnivore close by. Prey animals such as rabbits and guinea pigs might be fearful and stressed about the possibility of being your ferret’s next meal. At the very least, house them in separate rooms. Ferrets are escape artists and have been known to kill small mammals, birds, and reptiles.
Certain breeds of dogs are bred to hunt small animals, which the ferret is. And ferrets are bred as predators and may find birds, hamsters, and even small kittens as the perfect prey. Cats and ferrets often get along well, but you can’t force a relationship that isn’t there.
Having said all that, I don’t see a reason why a ferret couldn’t peacefully cohabitate in most homes if the owners use common sense. The key is to know your animals and their limits. Provide meticulous supervision at all times. When you introduce your pets, you may have to conclude that mixing the species just won’t work in your home; be prepared to offer your ferret a safe place to adequately play away from all your other pets. (See Chapter 7 for more on introducing your ferret to other animals.)
You should be aware of the legal aspects of owning a ferret. Before you consider the time, cost, adjustment, and olfactory aspects of ferret parenthood, do some digging to be sure that ferrets are legal where you live. What licenses may you need? What restrictions does your local government place on pet owners?
It’s truly heartbreaking to lose a ferret to legal snags after investing so much time and love. Fortunately, I haven’t experienced this pain firsthand, but I do shed tears when I read the emotional testimonies of people who’ve lost legal battles and ultimately their beloved fuzzies. For more information about the legal issues that govern owning a ferret, head to Chapter 3.
Chapter 2
IN THIS CHAPTER
Acquainting yourself with your lovable domestic ferret
Perusing the historical timeline of the ferret
Taking a look at the sport of ferreting
Going green (not really) with ferret hybrids
Reviewing the domestic ferret’s appearance
Examining the plight and the rebirth of the black-footed ferret
It’s important to discuss domestication when it comes to ferrets; the issue is at the center of a ferret’s identity. Some people hold the mistaken belief that ferrets are wild animals, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. Lumping them in with wild animals for regulatory purposes is, in my opinion, a crime (for more, see Chapter 3). In reality, ferrets are domesticated polecats, which means they’re descendants of wild polecats that were domesticated by humans. This chapter will teach you about what it means to be domesticated and why ferrets are domesticated. It’s really quite interesting.
You also discover in this chapter that ferrets are endearing critters that come in a multitude of colors and patterns, which I explain in detail. But ferret types don’t end at colors. In your search for a ferret you may come across an angora or even a ferret-polecat hybrid, so this chapter prepares you a little for that unusual and exciting encounter. But you’re not likely to encounter the ferret’s rare and extremely endangered cousin, the black-footed ferret. So I’ll introduce you to him here. You’ll get to know about his plight and the heroic efforts of a group of people to reintroduce him back into the wild.
This chapter also burrows through the past and takes you into the present, taking note of historical ferret sightings — some of which are more like hallucinations. You find out why people prized the beloved ferret so much in the first place, and that common folk weren’t the only ones who enjoyed the company of weasels. You also get a brief lesson on the art of ferreting, as well as a stern lecture on why your ferret should hunt only within the safety of your home.
Domestication is a long process in which people selectively breed wild animals in captivity for human benefit. There are three main criteria for domestication:
Humans select the animals to be bred; the animals can’t select mates themselves.
In the case of unaltered pet ferrets, their breeding is under complete control of humans. People not only pair up the ferrets, but also can and sometimes do tell them when and when not to breed by using light cycles. They can take ferrets out of season by using vasectomized males or medications so that they can’t reproduce. Humans can even have ferrets produce multiple litters per year or prevent them from having any litters in a year.
The animal experiences some type of genetic change that reflects the human selection and distinguishes it from its wild counterparts.
Domestication has caused profound changes to ferret behavior:
Domesticated ferrets by nature don’t fear humans.
They demonstrate prolonged litter behaviors toward other ferrets, which allows them to be housed with other ferrets.
They demonstrate play behavior into late adulthood.
In addition to behavioral changes, the domesticated ferret features extreme changes to fur color when compared to wild polecats. Ferrets can be bred for a multitude of colors and patterns, and albinism occurs frequently.
Humans derive some benefit from the domestication of the animal.
People domesticated ferrets to be mousers because they wanted a polecat that could hunt mice and be predictably tame toward humans. By the end of the domestication process, that’s exactly what they had. In the past and still today, people used ferrets in the sport of ferreting to hunt rabbits. Ferret domestication has also benefited humans in the areas of fur production, experimental science, and, of course, companionship.
Some domestication scientists would add a fourth bullet indicating tameness as a criterion, but not all domesticated animals are tame, which I can attest to as a keeper of wild animals. And some wild animals are tame, so tameness is relative.
A huge amount of mystery and controversy surrounds our little ferret friends’ history — perhaps because all polecat groups are very closely related and can interbreed successfully (that is, they can produce viable hybrids). Nobody really knows how the ferret is related to the rest of the polecats, except that it is a domesticated polecat, and the European polecat (Mustela putorius) and the steppe polecat (Mustela eversmanni) may be involved. The most commonly accepted among several theories points toward the European polecat as having the most likely claim to ferret ancestry.
Although scientists have found little archeological evidence to support this idea, genetically speaking, today’s ferret and the entire polecat group Subgenera Putorius (Mustela eversmanni, Mustela putorius, and Mustela nigripes) are practically twins. The most likely conclusion is that the domestic ferret is a polecat hybrid. But even a seemingly insignificant genetic discrepancy can mean the difference between a horse and a zebra or a dog and a coyote.
So, the studies move forward. However, it’s quite possible that we may never know the real ancestry in our lifetime or in any other lifetime. For your purposes, all you truly need to know is that you’re dealing with a unique little creature — more affectionate than ferocious, and so easy to fall in love with.