16,99 €
Get the most out of this Golden breed Man's best friend doesn't get any better than the Golden Retriever. Originally bred as hunting companions who retrieved birds and hares and delivered them to hand, the breed today is much more than "just a hunting dog." Highly intelligent and eager-to-please, Golden Retrievers have a history as working dogs that makes them easy to train. Attired in a luxurious fur coat and blessed with a gentle and affectionate nature, they are the third most popular breed in the United States and a favorite for families with young children. Written in a friendly style by Retriever-owner Nona Kilgore Bauer, the 2nd edition of Golden Retrievers For Dummies puts everything you need to know about your furry friend right in your hand. You'll learn how to care for a Golden Retriever from puppyhood to its stately golden years and how to communicate with them better. You'll also learn about grooming and training, as well as how to deal with common ailments and behaviors. * Select the best puppy for you * Adopt an older dog * Dog-proof your home * Train your Golden Retriever right Whatever you're looking for from your Golden Retriever, this book will help you get there, making for happiness all around--and many golden years ahead!
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Seitenzahl: 476
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2020
Golden Retrievers For Dummies®
Published byJohn Wiley & Sons, Inc.111 River StreetHoboken, NJ 07030www.wiley.com
Copyright © 2020 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2020903130
ISBN 978-1-119-66051-4 (pbk); ISBN 978-1-119-74855-7 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-119-74860-1 (ebk)
Cover
Introduction
How to Use This Book
Foolish Assumptions
Icons Used in This Book
Where to Go from Here
Part 1: Finding Your Soul Mate
Chapter 1: Are You Meant for Each Other?
The Name Game
More than Beauty
The Do-It-All Golden Retriever
Why Not a Golden Retriever?
A Golden Price Tag
Chapter 2: What to Look for in the Breed
Officially Golden
AKC Standards
Chapter 3: Finding a Golden Breeder
Finding a Reputable Breeder
Visiting a Breeder
Adopting an Older Golden
The Paper Trail: Pedigree and AKC Registration Papers
Healthy Parents, Healthy Pups
Gold Links: Mom and Dad
Chapter 4: Selecting Your Special Puppy
A Golden Partnership
Male or Female?
Eenie, Meenie, Miney … YOU!
Testing for Golden Personalities
If You Can’t Decide …
Part 2: Welcome Home!
Chapter 5: Setting Out the Welcome Mat
Outfitting Your Puppy
Puppy-Proofing Your House and Yard
Chapter 6: Welcoming Your Puppy Home
Bringing Your Puppy Home
Keeping His First Days Calm and Quiet
Teaching the Kids to Be Dog-Smart
Pulling Rank
Soup’s On! Your Puppy’s Dinner Plan
Making the Most of Meal Time
Discovering Puppy Antics
Conducting a Body Search
Nipping Puppy’s Nails
Socializing Your Puppy
Golden Designations
Minimizing the “No” Word
Chapter 7: Crate Training and Housetraining
Puppy Training and the Three Golden Ps
The Message in Your Voice
Introducing the Crate
Housetraining Routines
Chapter 8: Canine Communication and Growing Pains
Welcome to Puppy Preschool
Consistency Counts
Your Voice Says It All
Correcting Your Puppy’s Behavior
Enroll in a Puppy Kindergarten Class
To Chew or Not to Chew
Biting the Hand That Feeds
Chapter 9: Homeschooling Your Golden Puppy
To Treat or Not to Treat?
Choosing a Release Word
Mastering the Don’ts
Introducing Puppy to His Leash
The All-Important Come Command
The Sit Command
The Wait Command
The Down Command
Advancing to Sit-Stay and Down-Stay
The Drop it, Leave it, or Give Command
Teaching the Off Command
When the Message Is “Enough”!
Going Beyond Puppy Class
Part 3: Keeping Your Pal Healthy and Happy
Chapter 10: Healthy Habits: Nutrition and Exercise
Cheaper Is Not Better
Checking Out Food Labels
Digging into the Dog Food Bag
Feeding Wet or Dry
The Real Skinny on Obesity
Exercising Your Dog
Spaying or Neutering Your Dog
Chapter 11: Golden Health Care 101
Choosing a Veterinarian
Your Puppy’s Health Agenda
Keeping a Golden Health Calendar
Healthy Body Signs
Giving Your Dog Medications
Applying Eye Drops and Ointments
Ailments and Injuries from A to Z
Combating Allergies
Chapter 12: The Ins and Outs of Bugs and Worms
The Parade of Parasites
Chapter 13: Golden Grooming Basics
Grooming Is a Year-Round Job
Your Grooming Tool Kit
Don’t Forget the Paws
Be a Plaque Attacker
Ear Care
Bathing Your Dog
Cleaning the Anal Sacs
Chapter 14: Caring for Your Senior Golden
Slim and Trim
Healthy Teeth and Gums
Exercise, Arthritis, and Your Aging Dog
Changes in Vision and Hearing
Monitoring Lumps and Bumps
Skin and Coat
Signs of Kidney Disease
Detecting Heart Disease
Incontinence
Saying Good-Bye
If I Die Before You Go …
Chapter 15: Hereditary Disease
Hip Dysplasia (HD)
Elbow Dysplasia (ED) and Osteochondritis Dissecans (OCD)
Eye Disease
Epilepsy
Hypothyroidism
Subvalvular Aortic Stenosis (SAS)
Von Willebrand Disease (VWD)
Neuronal Ceroid Lipofuscinosis (NCL)
Ichthyosis
Chapter 16: Problem Behaviors and Aggression
Jumping for Joy
Checking Out Counters
On and Off Furniture
Golden Diggers
Eating Feces
Running Away
Avoiding Separation Anxiety
Thunderphobia and Noise Sensitivity
Food Guarding
Establishing Yourself as Alpha Dog
Recognizing Real Aggression
Part 4: The Part of Tens
Chapter 17: Ten Great Games to Play with Your Puppy
Follow Me
Puppy Catch
Kiss Me, Kate
Hide and Seek
Fetch
Double Fetch
Find Me
Find the Treat
Kick the Bottle
Stuff the Kong
Chapter 18: Ten Websites for the Golden Retriever Believer
Golden Retriever Club of America (GRCA)
Encyclopedia of Canine Veterinary Medical Information
Golden Retriever Forum
Morris Animal Foundation
VetGen (Veterinary Genetic Services)
American Kennel Club (AKC)
Golden Retriever Foundation (GRF)
Dog Owner’s Guide
Golden Retriever Rescue Organizations
K9Data.com
Chapter 19: Ten Things in Your Golden Retriever’s Bag of Tricks
Blue Ribbon Performers: Conformation
Grooming and Gaiting
Obedience Competition: More Than Good Manners
Hunting, Hunt Tests, Field Trials, and the WCX
Retrieving
Swimming
Tracking: Using That Golden Nose
Agility
Golden Assistance Partners
The Golden Trickster
Chapter 20: Ten Ways to Help Your Golden Live a Longer and More Golden Life
Keep Your Golden Lean
Practice Dental Hygiene
Exercise
Spay Your Female Golden
Neuter Your Male Golden
Know How to Take Emergency Action
Be a Teacher
Socialize
Expand Your Dog World
Become a Canine Nutritionist
Index
About the Author
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
Chapter 3
TABLE 3-1 AKC Pedigree Titles
Chapter 4
TABLE 4-1 Puppy Test Scores
TABLE 4-2 Confidence and Courage Responses
TABLE 4-3 Retrieving Scores
Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: There is no better place to lounge than with a Golden at your side!...
FIGURE 1-2: A good run is great for
both
of you!
Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: The profile of a Golden Retriever.
Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: Litters of 6 or more puppies are not unusual, and even litters of 1...
FIGURE 3-2: If you don’t think you’d enjoy the puppy stage, consider adopting a...
Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: Goldens are the best snugglers ever!
FIGURE 4-2: Puppies instinctively prefer to play with other pups.
Chapter 5
FIGURE 5-1: Chow time!
Chapter 6
FIGURE 6-1: These little guys will be happily tired after a good wrestling sess...
FIGURE 6-2: Nail clipping won’t be difficult if you start at an early age.
Chapter 8
FIGURE 8-1: A daily Sit-Stay or Down-Stay can help keep your dog in line.
FIGURE 8-2: Chewing is only natural; it’s
what
your Golden chews on that’s a pr...
Chapter 9
FIGURE 9-1: This puppy is asking for approval for obeying the Sit command!
Chapter 10
FIGURE 10-1: Your dog needs a quality dog food to maintain good health.
FIGURE 10-2: Your dog should always have access to fresh water — but it should ...
Chapter 11
FIGURE 11-1: Apply eye ointment very gently.
Chapter 13
FIGURE 13-1: Always use gentle strokes when brushing your puppy.
FIGURE 13-2: It’s easier to trim your puppy or dog’s feet if he is lying on his...
FIGURE 13-3: Use a soft-bristled toothbrush and a toothpaste made for dogs.
Chapter 14
FIGURE 14-1: Exercise is a primary ingredient for your dog’s health.
Cover
Table of Contents
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Whether you’re thinking about making a run for the gold or you already own one or a dozen Golden Retrievers, you’ve come to the right book. Through these pages, I explore all the elements of your Golden Retriever’s life (present and future company included), from the joyous days of puppyhood to the sweet serenity of the senior years.
Before you turn to the next page, I must warn you in advance. I will occasionally nag a bit. That’s because certain dog facts and rules are important enough to bear extra emphasis, and I will lose sleep if you don’t understand them. If you notice it, I’m proud of you, because it means that you remember what I said.
This book is intended for busy 21st-century dog owners who don’t have time to sit down and read through 300 pages at a crack. This is a reference you can jump in and out of as dog questions rear their furry heads. Just flip to the Table of Contents or the index to find the pertinent pages on that topic.
That’s not to say you shouldn’t read this entire book! Every chapter offers important nuggets of information that I believe every Golden owner needs to know. But you don’t need the details on senior dog food if your Golden’s just a pup, so that’s the real beauty of the For Dummies formula. You can go directly to the information you need at the time.
In case you’re wondering about those little gray boxes you see throughout the book, these sidebars contain bonus information — kind of like puppy treats. These goodies are not essential to the overall content of each chapter, so don’t feel guilty if you skip past one or two!
I made a few assumptions when I wrote this book:
You are hooked on Golden Retrievers and either own one or you’re thinking about taking the plunge.
You want to find out the best way to raise and train your Golden, as a loving family dog and well-behaved canine citizen.
You want your Golden to not just survive, but thrive, and you bought this book to help you make that happen.
Throughout this book, various icons appear in the margin to highlight different types of information.
These icons help you discover ways to make your life (and your dog’s life) easier.
The Warning icon means just that!
Remember icons are memory boosters so that you won’t forget important doggie details.
This icon marks pure canine pleasantries that dog folks like to know.
Where you start in this book depends on what you want at any particular moment. If your Golden just dug into the trash for the umpteenth time and you’re counting to ten, then check out Part 2. Other needs and questions will point you to other sections of the book. It’s all just the flip of a page away. So go ahead, indulge yourself and explore everything this book has to offer!
My goal in writing this book was to make you the smartest Golden owner in your neighborhood — heck, even the entire town! If I succeed, everyone will be richer for it — you, your Golden, and, of course, I’ll sleep a whole lot better, too.
Part 1
IN THIS PART …
Golden Retrievers are great dogs. But they also shed, chew, and need lots of exercise. Are you ready for that?
In this part you learn the importance of becoming a Golden Retriever expert and researching this special breed before you decide to add one to your family.
Find out how and where to look for a healthy Golden who will be compatible with your family. (Skip the Internet and newspaper. Good breeders don’t advertise!)
Learn how to choose the pup who’s right for you. Hunting buddy? Family camping companion? Snuggle bunny? Your breeder can help you decide which puppy fits your Golden dreams.
Chapter 1
IN THIS CHAPTER
Getting acquainted with your Golden Retriever
Admiring the well-rounded Golden: personality, brains, beauty, and ability
Understanding why Goldens aren’t for everyone
Adding up the Golden price tag
If you live in a typical neighborhood, then you’re probably neighbors with at least one Golden Retriever. Goldens seem to be everywhere — down the block, on television, and in every magazine. These big, beautiful furries are the most popular advertising gimmick of the 21st century. Not only are they huggable, they’re trainable as well. What other dog can leap so high or smile so wide into that camera lens? As one of the five most popular dog breeds of the American Kennel Club (AKC), Goldens are no doubt one of the most photographed subjects in the media. Of course, Golden fanatics don’t see anything strange about this, and love every doggie moment. Heck, even nondog people will admit (under their breath) that those Golden Retrievers are kinda cute.
This chapter gives you the inside scoop on this special breed. If you haven’t fallen in love with your neighbor’s Golden already, you will by the time you’re done browsing this book.
But — and this is a big but — although Golden Retrievers are great dogs, they’re not for everyone. This chapter also tells you how to determine whether you’re one of those lucky people who is perfect for the breed.
The Golden Retriever is aptly named — especially the “golden” part. What began as a description of this dog’s yellow coat more appropriately describes his sunny disposition and his 14-karat value to his owner and to society. Goldens are great family dogs and all-around good sports who think they were created purely to please their person. This happy, funny, friendly fetcher of anything not nailed down has captured a permanent corner of the American heart, home, and marketplace. Give them a spot with a human on it (as you can see in Figure 1-1, this Golden will gladly join you on the couch!), a puddle to play in, and a stick or tennis ball to fetch and carry (maybe not in that order), and you’ve made their day. As a bonus, throw in an occasional duck or pheasant — after all, retriever is 50 percent of this dog’s name!
© Getty Images.
FIGURE 1-1: There is no better place to lounge than with a Golden at your side!
The color of that lush Golden Retriever coat dates back to the breed’s four original yellow ancestors crossed with a few selected hunting breeds sprinkled here and there during the late 19th century. Today, the breed color can range from very pale blond to reddish gold to deep Irish Setter red.
Keep in mind that the color of the Golden’s coat has nothing to do with his intelligence or equally golden temperament. Color matters occasionally in the conformation ring. Some show judges seem to prefer a blonde or lighter coat, which only means they probably spent too much time watching reruns of old Marilyn Monroe movies.
The Golden Retriever’s personality is as golden as his outer coat. This dog was bred to please, and please he does. He started out as a hunting partner who delivered birds to hand, and has evolved into modern times delivering whatever suits his owner’s fancy. He’s always happy to oblige.
Because they were originally bred to work in tandem with humans, Goldens are also highly trainable and eager to please. These dogs are a breath of fresh air in an era of too many wild and crazy dogs who sometimes drive their owners nuts.
Trainable doesn’t mean that Golden Retrievers are born already trained. It just means they’re very willing fellows who like to work as a team, and if you’re the captain of the team, your Golden will be delighted to do your bidding. Remember the part about the captain; it’s important! (See Chapter 7 for more on training.)
Goldens have the dog world’s most forgiving disposition and will blithely dismiss all those dumb mistakes you’re bound to make. Whether you come home 2 hours late, forget his dinner bowl, or accidentally step on his tail, he’ll forget it ever happened once you smile at him. (A hefty scratch behind his ears, and he’s your slave forever.) That does not imply that you have his permission to do stupid things. It just means he understands you’re only human.
Likewise, you should follow his good example and forgive your dog his trespasses. In dog terms, they’re not mistakes because he’s just a dog and is the product of his instincts and your training, good or bad.
If the Golden Retriever were a human, you’d be envious. Not only are Goldens beautiful, intelligent, and friendly, they’re also natural athletes who have dipped their paws into every canine sporting discipline. These dogs are joyful companions who are willing to try anything as long as they can enjoy it with someone fun to be with.
Beyond sportsmanship, that famous Golden nose has nudged its way into almost every other facet of the human-animal connection. Today, Golden Retrievers serve as assistance dogs for the physically disabled, guide dogs for the blind, and hearing dogs for the deaf. And that Golden nose keeps on sniffing, working for law enforcement as drug and arson detectives, and as search and rescue dogs who find victims buried under snow and earthquake rubble. Beyond that, with their sweet demeanors, they also excel as therapy dogs in hospitals and nursing homes where, unlike the average hourly employee, they love their jobs. And they work for free, unless you count dog biscuits as a paycheck.
Of course, you want a Golden Retriever. What person in his right mind wouldn’t? And you firmly believe you and the dog would be a golden combination. Right?
Well, maybe. Despite their high-profile status in the media, Goldens aren’t for everyone. This is a sporting breed, folks. These high-energy dogs require training. On the other hand, Goldens are easily trained and love to learn, so training could and should be a fun but very busy experience.
With no offense intended to my favorite breed, the following sections outline some reasons that you may want to think twice about life with a Golden Retriever.
The Golden Retriever has what’s called a double coat, which means that he has a soft downy undercoat to insulate him from the cold and heat and a longer outer coat of guard hairs. These hairy critters shed their downy undercoat in huge quantities every spring and leave a little dog hair all over the house all year long. The resulting clouds of dog down all over the house can make you tear out your hair as well.
Golden Retriever puppy fever isn’t a dog disease; it’s a people condition that most often occurs in spring when some humans become infected with an uncontrollable urge to add a puppy to the family. It can lead to dog heaven or, heaven forbid, a nervous breakdown if the affected person thinks all Goldens are like the ones they see on television. The cure — getting that cute puppy immediately — can be worse than the disease.
If you’re serious about getting a Golden puppy (or any puppy) and not just caving in to the kids or some other wild and crazy impulse, follow the advice of responsible dog owners and breeders. Look deep into your dog-loving soul and check out the big picture. Love alone is not enough. This is a commitment that hopefully will last 12 or more years!
Brushing will help keep that nuisance dog hair to a minimum. Daily brushing is best — twice weekly is a must. If you use a professional groomer, expect to pay $50 to $75 per grooming session. Pretty is seldom cheap. (For more on grooming, see Chapter 13.)
If you want to live with a Golden Retriever, make sure you have room for one. These big sprawling fellows easily occupy at least one couch cushion or easy chair. Everything’s big, including their muddy paw prints on your kitchen floor and their nose prints on the window. That happy Golden tail can easily clear your coffee table. (Sorry, move your Waterford.)
In short, Goldens need space, and lots of it, both in-house and out. A yard is a must, and good fencing is the best way to keep him safe and out of trouble. (Yes, given the opportunity, he will try to wander off in search of squirrels, bunnies, and other varmints.)
The Golden Retriever is a Scotsman, a hunting dog born and bred in Scotland over 150 years ago. To the Golden’s credit, he has surpassed Scottish tweeds and kilts in popularity, and today performs well beyond the duck blind he was born for. Overdosed with talent and versatility, the 21st-century Golden consistently outperforms other breeds in almost every discipline in dog sports, including more mundane activities like sock and shoe theft. (Just ask my personal Golden Retriever crew about that!)
A normal Golden usually creates a little happy chaos, which is part of his universal appeal. These spirited dogs have an inbred desire to retrieve, play, chase, and chew. They need daily exercise to expend all that sporting energy, or they will entertain themselves in the usual canine fashion. (Think destruction!)
A typical Golden Retriever household usually has a few ragged chew marks on the chair legs, dog toys strewn about the living room, piles of shredded sticks in the backyard, and one or two large sticks at the front or back door, the ones he delivered to you as his special prize.
Your Golden will not exercise without you. You are his incentive to romp and play. Daily walks and jogs (a favorite Golden activity, as shown in Figure 1-2), Frisbee games, and bumper chasing (those large, hot-dog-shaped canvas or plastic retrieving objects sold in pet stores for retrieve-a-holic dogs) can help keep your Golden tired and content. For more on exercising with your dog, see Chapters 10 and 17.
© Getty Images.
FIGURE 1-2: A good run is great for both of you!
Just like people, you can’t stereotype Goldens. If you’re discouraged about all this talk about active, high-energy Golden Retrievers, don’t worry. You can still find a quiet(er) Golden companion who won’t totally disrupt your household. Some lines (or families) of show-type Goldens produce a more laid-back animal who doesn’t act like Robo Cop. See Chapters 3 and 4 for more details.
If you’re on the go and never home and your Golden’s alone most of the day, he will be stressed and unhappy. That’s not fair to the dog and may be disastrous for you. Goldens need to be with people, and an isolated and lonely Golden can easily suffer from separation anxiety, which will lead to destructive behavior. It’s a natural canine stress reliever.
On the other hand, if you’re an active family that loves the outdoor life and plan to take your Golden to soccer practice and baseball games, then the two of you are probably a good match.
Smart as he is, a Golden Retriever will not train himself. Good manners are not included in his pedigree. It’s up to you, the team captain, to teach your dog acceptable behavior — what he may and may not do at home and in the neighborhood. Obedience training is the only way to accomplish that. Few pet owners have the know-how, expertise, or motivation to do it solo, so training classes must be part of your agenda. That also means practicing every day with your dog, or your once-a-week classes will be wasted.
Don’t be misled by the over-used 10-minutes-a-day obedience slogan. Training is an ongoing process whenever you’re with your dog and he’s awake. If you can’t or won’t commit to raising your Golden as you would an infant or toddler, don’t blame your Golden if he’s wild or disobedient. See Chapter 9 for more on teaching your Golden obedient behavior and good manners.
If you’re looking for a guard dog, get rid of this book and investigate another breed. Most Goldens are complete love sponges who would happily lick the boots of an intruder. You can encourage them to bark at people who approach your house, but you can’t — and shouldn’t — teach them to intimidate or bite. Their very size may deter a home invader, but anyone familiar with a Golden’s love-’em-all attitude knows that a scratch behind Golden ears means instant friendship.
That said, I firmly believe that my Golden family would sense any danger to me personally and would defend me to the death. Stories abound about Golden Retriever heroes who have protected children and adults who were in danger or threatened by some adversary.
If you have kids under age 3 or 4 and you get a puppy, you will now have the equivalent of two or three kids under 3! Double your pleasure, and — you got it — twice the work. And a major communication problem.
Because neither pup nor child has learned the house rules yet, almost everything they hear will be a no-no, which creates a negative learning environment for both kid and dog. Puppies nip and chew, and kids pull tails and sit on furry bodies. Both require 24-hour attention. And face it, when you have to prioritize, the puppy naturally loses. That’s not fair for the dog. Some breeders may recommend that you wait until your child is older before they let you have one of their prize packages. My personal age limit for kids is 4 years old.
Dogs are not a bargain if you think long term. Even if you find a pup for free (never a bargain!), you still have to pay for food, veterinary care, training, equipment, toys, and possibly doggie day care. And there are no laters or maybes. A sick dog, like a sick child, needs attention now, not when you have the money. In both the short term and the long haul, dogs, especially large ones, add up to mega bucks. So, before you fall in love with some cute fuzzy puppy, consider these figures provided by the AKC:
Veterinary expenses:
Initial veterinary care (shots, worming, and other healthy stuff) runs at least $150 to $200, with lifetime vet care totaling well over $2,500. That’s without the cost of spay/neuter surgery (typically at least $200) and the possibility of other surgery due to accident or illness. Factor in preventive medications for typical canine illnesses, and the total medical care can run well over $4,000 during the lifetime of your dog. (For more on preventive care, see
Chapter 11
.)
Some breeders who raise competition Goldens may have “pet-quality” pups from certain litters. Pet-quality pups are those who don’t make the cut for competition in the field or show ring, but still possess all the other important Golden qualities and thus may be less expensive. But that $200 Golden pup from a newspaper ad is not a bargain and may end up costing a fortune in medical bills, not to mention heartbreak. Obtaining your Golden pup from a reputable breeder is your best bet. (For more on choosing a breeder, see Chapter 3.)
Obedience classes:
Training fees for puppy classes and early obedience instruction start at $50 to $100, the same for the additional classes you’ll need to make your dog bomb-proof, and will run well into the hundreds if you continue formal training. (For more on training, see
Chapter 9
.)
Food:
Good-quality dog food for an average-size Golden can cost up to $500 a year. That’s $5,500 over an 11-year period. (Imagine feeding a Great Dane!)
Miscellaneous costs:
Dog supplies, grooming equipment, leashes, collars, and toys carry an initial cost of $250, with a lifetime estimate of $2,500 if you take good care of your dog. (And, of course, you would!) Registration fees vary by state and county, and there’s usually flea and tick control, which every Golden owner faces every year.
The grand total comes in at $10,000 to $15,000, the approximate 10- to 13-year lifetime cost for the privilege and pleasure of living with a Golden Retriever. And don’t forget the initial purchase of the dog, which can range from a $100 donation to an animal shelter to up to $1,200 for a decent to competition-quality Golden with health guarantees.
If your Golden damages or destroys your possessions (bet on it!) or a neighbor’s (probably), you can add hundreds more to annual living expenses.
Chapter 2
IN THIS CHAPTER
Understanding the Golden profile
Reviewing the AKC breed standard
All breeds must have what the American Kennel Club (AKC) calls a “standard”; that is, what a properly bred Golden or other breed should look and act like. After all, that’s what makes a “breed” a breed. Without a standard, you could breed a dog with big black or white spots to another spotted dog, and a few generations down the road you’d have a leopard-spotted Golden. That’s also what genetics are all about.
Note: In the official publication, “An Introduction to the Golden Retriever” by the Golden Retriever Club of America, it includes the Standard for the breed, which is outlined in this chapter. It states, “The Board of Directors of the American Kennel Club has approved the revised Standard for the Golden Retriever submitted by the Golden Retriever Club of America, effective January 1, 1982.”
It’s the job and purpose of every breed’s parent club (in our case, the Golden Retriever Club of America or GRCA) to decide how to preserve the purity of its chosen breed. Goldens were originally hunting dogs, and the standard says so. The standard also dictates other characteristics of the Golden, such as his color, coat type, size, and temperament. In this chapter, I present the complete Golden Retriever standard as approved by AKC.
The AKC first recognized the Golden Retriever in 1925. By 1938, the breed had gained enough popularity that Golden fanciers formed a national breed club. Thus was born the Golden Retriever Club of America to help direct the future of the breed in the United States. Today, the GRCA has almost 60 member clubs across the country.
Those local Golden Retriever clubs are a major resource for Golden Retriever owners. You don’t have to be a canine expert or good at anything doggie to join a dog breed club. Just loving your dog like crazy is reason enough. You can get lots of good dog advice and information from more experienced club members, and it’s a great place to share dog tales and boasts about your Golden that your other friends may be sick of hearing.
The AKC has different standards for each breed of dog. The following sections describe the ideal Golden Retriever. This provides a guideline for judges and breeders to follow when assessing Goldens in the show ring, as well as their personal dogs, and their breeding potential. Please keep in mind that the language is like a canine legal document and can be difficult for the layperson to understand.
Always great showmen and competitors, Goldens trip the light fantastic in the conformation ring, beguiling the judges and the spectators with their beauty and performance (see figure). Goldens consistently outshine all other breeds in the obedience ring, winning trials and wowing the audience with their high-stepping strut. And a lucky minority still pursue their birthright in the field: in hunting tests, field trials, and doing the real thing with their hunter-owners. Beyond even that, Goldens also steal the show at agility events and flyball competitions. With all those fun activities, no wonder these Golden dogs are always smiling!
It was inevitable that a dog this versatile and talented would be embraced by sporting specialists and bred for specific qualities for various canine competitions. Today, the conformation crowd breeds Goldens for their grand good looks. The obedience enthusiasts prefer high-stepping Goldens who love teamwork, and the bird dog division looks for Goldens who still love birds and water.
As a result, there are often huge differences in how each type of Golden looks and acts. They’re all Golden Retrievers, but consider those differences when you consider a particular litter of pups. While each type should have a heart of gold, remember there are several varieties of the breed.
Mary Bloom/AKC Stock Images.
Few Goldens meet every requirement in the standard. Some have minor faults, and some have faults that disqualify them from the breed ring. However, dogs who are not perfect physical specimens still make wonderful companions and competitors. A reputable breeder will explain the differences between his or her “show quality” and “pet quality” puppies.
Figure 2-1 is a good representative profile of a typical Golden Retriever. A symmetrical, powerful, active dog, sound and well put together, not clumsy nor long in leg, displaying a kindly expression and possessing a personality that is eager, alert, and self-confident. Primarily a hunting dog, he should be shown in hard-working condition. Overall appearance, balance, gait, and purpose to be given more emphasis than any of his component parts.
Faults: Any departure from the described ideal shall be considered faulty to the degree to which it interferes with the breed’s purpose or is contrary to breed character.
The Faults definition is intended primarily to guide those who judge the dogs in the conformation ring.
FIGURE 2-1: The profile of a Golden Retriever.
Males 23–24 inches in height at withers; females 21½–22½ inches. Dogs up to 1 inch above or below standard size should be proportionately penalized. Deviation in height of more than 1 inch from standard shall disqualify.
Length from breastbone to point of buttocks slightly greater than height at withers (top of shoulder) in ratio of 12:11. Weight for dogs (males) 65–75 pounds; bitches 55–65 pounds.
Broad in skull, slightly arched laterally and longitudinally without prominence of frontal bones (forehead) or occipital bones (top back point of the skull). Stop (between the eyes, where the top of the nose and forehead meet) well defined but not abrupt. Foreface (front of face) deep and wide; nearly as long as skull. Muzzle straight in profile, blending smoothly and strongly into skull; when viewed in profile or from above, slightly deeper and wider at stop than at tip. No heaviness in flews (the skin that hangs from the dog’s muzzle or his lip). Removal of whiskers is permitted but not preferred.
Don’t worry if your Golden’s nose turns a little pink in winter. It’s called a snow nose and will turn black or brownish-black again in spring. Some dogs get it, and some don’t. Others get it later in life, and some never do.
Eyes friendly and intelligent in expression, medium large with dark, close fitting rims, set well apart and reasonably deep in sockets. Color preferably dark brown; medium brown acceptable. Slant eyes and narrow, triangular eyes detract from correct expression and are to be faulted. No white or haw (lining inside the lower eyelid) visible when looking straight ahead. Dogs showing evidence of functional abnormality of eyelids or eyelashes (such as, but not limited to, trichiasis, entropion, ectropion, or distichiasis) are to be excused from the ring. (See Chapter 15 for a discussion on eye problems and hereditary eye disease.)
Ears rather short with front edge attached well behind and just above the eye and falling close to cheek. When pulled forward, tip of ear should just cover the eye. Low, hound-like ear set to be faulted.
Nose black or brownish-black, though fading to a lighter shade in cold weather not serious. Pink nose or one seriously lacking in pigmentation to be faulted.
Teeth scissors bite, in which the outer side of the lower incisors touches the inner side of the upper incisors. Undershot (the lower front teeth protrude beyond the front upper teeth in bite or closed position) or overshot (just the opposite; the lower jaw is shorter, so the upper front teeth bite down over the lower teeth) is a disqualification. Misalignment of teeth (irregular placement of incisors) or a level bite (incisors meet each other edge to edge) is undesirable, but not to be confused with undershot or overshot. Full dentition. Obvious gaps are serious faults.
Neck medium long, merging gradually into well-laid back shoulders, giving sturdy, muscular appearance. No throatiness.
Back line strong and level from withers (top of the shoulders, just behind the neck) to slightly sloping croup (the lower back, from the front of the pelvis to the base of the tail), whether standing or moving. Sloping back line, roach (humped up) or sway back, flat or steep croup to be faulted.
Body well balanced, short coupled (not an excessively long body), deep through the chest. Chest between forelegs at least as wide as a man’s closed hand including thumb, with well-developed forechest (top of the chest). Brisket (lower chest under the breast bone extending to between the front legs) extends to elbow. Ribs long and well sprung but not barrel shaped, extending well toward hindquarters. Loin (from the rib cage to the pelvis) short, muscular, wide and deep, with very little tuck-up. Slabsidedness (a flat or caved-in chest), narrow chest, lack of depth in brisket, excessive tuck-up (underneath the rear part of the body) to be faulted.
Tail well set on, thick and muscular at the base, following the natural line of the croup. Tail bones extend to, but not below, the point of hock (the joint between the lower thigh and rear pastern (sort of the rear elbow). Carried with merry action, level or with some moderate upward curve; never curled over back nor between the legs.
Muscular, well-coordinated with hindquarters, and capable of free movement. Shoulder blades long and well laid back with upper tips fairly close together at withers. Upper arms appear about the same length as the blades, setting the elbows back beneath the upper tip of the blades, close to the ribs without looseness. Legs, viewed from the front, straight with good bone, but not to the point of coarseness. Pasterns (on the leg, just above the foot, where the foot or wrist/carpus bends into the leg; metacarpus in front, metatarsus in rear) short and strong, sloping slightly with no suggestion of weakness. Dewclaws (a nail on the small fifth toe on the inside of the front leg above the rest of the toes) on forelegs may be removed, but are normally left on.
Feet medium size, round, compact, and well knuckled, with thick pads. Excess hair may be trimmed to show natural size and contour. Splayed (the toes or digits are split apart or separated) or hare feet (center toes are more than a hair longer than the outer toes) to be faulted.
Broad and strongly muscled. Profile of croup slopes slightly; the pelvic bone slopes at a slightly greater angle (approximately 30 degrees from horizontal). In a natural stance, the femur (thigh bone, rear leg) joins the pelvis at approximately a 90-degree angle; stifles (a joint in the thigh, sometimes called the knee) well bent; hocks (tarsus — the joint between the lower thigh and rear pastern) well let down with short, strong rear pasterns. Feet as in front. Legs straight when viewed from rear. Cow hocks (hind legs that bend in), spread hocks (just the opposite), and sickle hocks (hocks with angulation in sickle shape) to be faulted.
Dense and water repellent with good undercoat. Outer coat firm and water resilient, neither coarse nor silky, lying close to the body; may be straight or wavy. Untrimmed natural ruff; moderate feathering on back of forelegs and on underbody; heavier feathering on front of neck, back of thighs, and underside of tail. Coat on head, paws, and front of legs is short and even. Excessive length, open coats, and limp, soft coats are very undesirable. Feet may be trimmed and stray hairs neatened, but the natural appearance of coat or outline should not be altered by cutting or clipping.
A charming tale existed years ago about a group of Russian circus dogs who evolved into the very talented Golden Retriever.
Okay, so maybe not. The truth is you can thank a Scotsman for your lovely breed. Sir Dudley Marjoriebanks — later elevated to Lord Tweedmouth and so named because his estate rested on the Tweed River in the hills of Inverness, Scotland — was an avid sportsman with a special passion for water fowling. Apparently, collecting the ducks he shot over those rough coastal waters wasn’t easy, because he longed for a canine hunting companion who would not only swim out to retrieve his birds, but also deliver them to hand. And he had a yen for a yellow dog to do the job. (Sounds like a good idea to me, too.)
So in 1868, Tweedmouth launched his first experimental yellow breeding, mating a liver-colored Tweed Water Spaniel (the name begs no explanation) named Belle to a yellow Wavy-Coated Retriever named Nous, which in Greek means “wisdom.” See anything prophetic in that name? Nous was the only yellow pup, in those days called a “sport,” out of a litter of all blacks, which was the standard color for the Wavy-Coat.
Surprise! Nous and Belle produced four yellow furries, which Tweedmouth promptly named Cowslip, Ada, Crocus, and Primrose. He kept Cowslip for himself and gave the other pups to good friends who shared his passion for breeding a yellow sporting dog.
Tweedmouth’s kennel records show a detailed history of Color-Me-Yellow canine marriages dating back to Cowslip and his littermates. Linebreeding of this nature was pretty radical in those days, so Tweedmouth was a true vanguard of his time.
So where did red-gold and rust-colored Goldens come from? Okay, carry that a little further. Who were the parents that produced so many other shades of gold? Surely not just the yellow dogs that Tweedmouth was so avidly promoting.
Enter the Irish Setter (sorry, Scotland), the Bloodhound, and the yellow Labrador. Breeding reliable retrieving dogs also meant improving and preserving essential sporting qualities like scenting ability and other important hunting talents. So along the way these retriever pioneers occasionally outcrossed their yellow dogs to other popular hunting breeds. It’s often said the Golden’s nose is one of its most famous parts, and you can thank the Bloodhound cross for that.
The Golden’s destiny eventually took them across the Atlantic into the United States and Canada. In the early 1900s, British military officers and other professionals often traveled with their hunting dogs so that they could do a little shooting on their business trips. (Sort of like today’s political junkets.) Eventually, the dogs merged into the U.S. population, growing especially popular in the bird-rich areas of the northern states and coastal areas. The breed is still abundant in those states where pheasant stock is plentiful and that Golden nose can track them down.
Tweedmouth really did his homework. His yellow retrievers had such sweet and winning personalities they just naturally wiggled their way into the house after a hard day of hunting. Always smiling, great with kids, and eager to please, the Golden was as good in the house as he was afield. By 1950, the breed was becoming well known as a dual-purpose dog.
Rich, lustrous golden of various shades. Feathering may be lighter than rest of coat. With the exception of graying or whitening on face or body due to age, any white marking, other than a few white hairs on the chest, should be penalized according to its extent. Allowable light shadings are not to be confused with white markings. Predominant body color that is extremely pale or extremely dark is undesirable. Some latitude should be given to the light puppy whose coloring shows promise of deepening with maturity. Any noticeable area of black or other off-color hair is a serious fault.
When trotting, gait is free, smooth, powerful, and well-coordinated, showing good reach. Viewed from any position, legs turn neither in nor out, nor do feet cross or interfere with each other. As speed increases, feet tend to converge toward center line of balance. It is recommended that dogs be shown on a loose lead to reflect true gait.
Friendly, reliable, and trustworthy. Quarrelsomeness or hostility toward other dogs or people in normal situations, or an unwarranted show of timidity or nervousness, is not in keeping with Golden Retriever characteristics. Such actions should be penalized according to their significance.
(For more information on a Golden Retriever’s temperament, see Chapter 1.)
Deviation in height of more than 1 inch from standard either way. Undershot or overshot bite.
Chapter 3
IN THIS CHAPTER
Interviewing breeders
Considering puppy alternatives — older puppies and adult Goldens
Understanding pedigrees
Analyzing health clearances
Ever take a look at your family tree? Just as humans have family trees, dogs have pedigrees. And just as your ancestry can reflect bank robbers or other unsavory people, so, too, can a dog’s pedigree reveal some very common, even crummy, parents, grandparents, aunts, or uncles. And their genetic influence will determine what kind of dog your Golden will grow up to be. Good breeders avoid those questionable ancestors and look for qualities like temperament, talent, health, even longevity, when they build that canine family tree or pedigree. Thus, experienced Golden owners and competitors always research pedigrees when looking for their next super dog. So, follow their example when you’re looking for a Golden puppy; pedigree is the first order of the day. In this chapter, we’ll plan your breeder/puppy search.
References are the first and most obvious way to find a reputable breeder (with reputable being the most important factor). Talk to people who own Goldens you admire and ask them where they got their dog. If they found their wonder dog through a newspaper ad, take a pass and keep looking. With all due respect to the dog’s owner, reputable breeders seldom advertise. They usually have reservations in advance and depend on referrals from other dog friends or previous puppy clients. They also don’t want to sort through all the riffraff to find proper homes for their babies, and they will keep puppies past the normal 7- to 8-week placement age until the right dog person comes along.
Here are a few other ways to get referrals to a good breeder:
Ask your veterinarian.
If you don’t have a veterinarian, ask a friend or family member’s vet.
Spend the day at a dog show, an obedience trial, or field event.
You’ll see a wide variety of Goldens and can get up close and personal with the ones you like. Most dog owners who show their dogs in the various dog activities enjoy nothing more than talking about their special Goldens and where they got them. You’ll be introduced to the Golden world and learn often valuable information about the breed and its many talents.
Contact the Golden Retriever Club of America (GRCA) on their website (
https://www.grca.org
).
You’ll find all sorts of good information on the breed as well as breeders in your geographical area. It will even tell you what questions to ask the breeder (in case you forget what you read in this book!).
When you’re visiting a breeder, don’t hesitate to ask about previous litters and where you could meet other dogs she’s bred and the people who own them. Reputable breeders should be more than willing to offer references.
What should you expect from a breeder you plan to visit? He or she …
Understands the genetics behind the mating of a particular sire (father) and dam (mother).
A reputable breeder plans a litter for specific reasons and has reasonable expectations for what the breeding will produce. She never does it just because her Golden is sweet or beautiful and her neighbor’s Golden is a handsome guy and they’d have such pretty babies, and so on. That’s the stuff unhealthy and unsound dogs are made of.
Has a written puppy contract that specifies health guarantees.
If the pup fails to meet the health guarantees in the contract, the breeder will agree to take the puppy back, replace the puppy with one of equal value, or refund your purchase price. The contract may include a spay/neuter clause and indicate whether the pup is being sold on a limited registration. See “Do you require that your puppies be spayed or neutered?” later in this chapter for details on limited registrations.
Usually breeds no more than one or two litters a year.
A reputable breeder does not have several litters at the same time or keep several different breeds of dogs on the premises. Nor do her dogs or puppies spend their entire lives in pens, cages, or kennels, popping out puppies every year. Golden breeders are devoted to their breed. Their dogs are members of the family and usually live in the house (at least most of the time) and enjoy the same privileges as the kids. (Okay, maybe they don’t all sleep on the bed like mine do.) The puppies shown in
Figure 3-1
are comfy in their breeder’s yard. Make sure that any breeder you consider fits that description.
You may have to travel to find a good quality litter. If the breeder is too far away to visit, ask her to send a video of the puppies and her other dogs.
Close Encounters of the Furry Kind.
FIGURE 3-1: Litters of 6 or more puppies are not unusual, and even litters of 10 or 11 pups are not uncommon.
The puppy environment is one important indicator of the breeder’s level of care and expertise. You should check out not only where the puppies are raised, but how they are raised. The puppies should be in the house or an adjoining room, not isolated down in a basement, outdoor kennel or kennel building, or dark corner of the garage. (The key word here is isolated.) They need to be near family areas where they can be raised and socialized with people every day. Puppies need to be exposed to a variety of sights, sounds, and surfaces in order to become stable and confident when they leave their pack. The greater their exposure, the easier the transition from canine family to human.