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Quick, reliable answers to your most common on-site questions When you're in the field, you never know what you'll come across. The Wiley Graphic Standards Field Guide to Home Inspections gives you fast access to the information you need when you're on-site and under pressure. Presented in a highly visual and easily portable format, the Graphic Standards Field Guide to Home Inspections is organized according to CSI's Masterformat standards of practice. It covers everything from inspection preparation to on-site safety, conveying the most common answers with practical instruction about home inspections that the professional inspector, architect, engineer, or contractor needs to access quickly out in the field to evaluate an existing residential property. The Field Guide to Home Inspections extends the Graphic Standards experience outside of the office and into the field, with: * Quick access to essential information wherever you are * Graphic Standards-quality details accompanied by real-world photographs of the common conditions you'll find in residential buildings * Illustrations that help you troubleshoot problems, along with on-the-spot solutions * Compact format that's easy to reference and carry along The Graphic Standards Field Guide to Home Inspections is the ideal companion for the on-the-go professional home inspector.
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Seitenzahl: 383
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2011
Table of Contents
Series Page
Title Page
Copyright
Introduction
Who This Book Is For
How This Book Is Organized
How to Use This Book
About the Author
About Graphic Standards
Chapter 1: Beginning an Inspection
Introduction
Before Beginning an Inspection
Tools
Getting Organized
Questions to Ask the Homeowner
Proper Client Relations
Opening Speech
The Inspection Begins
Chapter 2: Exterior Components
Siding (Cladding)
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Exterior Doors
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Windows
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Exterior Stairs
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Porches, Decks, and Balconies
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Patios, Walkways, and Driveways
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Chimneys
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Gutters and Leaders
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Soffit and Fascia/Columns, Posts, and Piers
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Finishes, Paints, and Stains
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Resources
Chapter 3: Structure
Foundation Types
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Settlement Cracks: Patterns and Diagnosis
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Reporting: Crack Diagnosis
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Basements: Dampness, Seepage, and Waterproofing
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Crawlspaces
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Dehumidification vs. Humidification
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Brick and Brick Veneer Issues
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Interior Structural Framing
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Previous Repairs and Disclosure
Description
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Reporting
Chapter 4: Roofing
Roofing
Description
Asphalt/Fiberglass Shingles
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Wood Shingles
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Wood Shakes
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Slate Tiles
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Concrete and Terra Cotta Tiles
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Synthetic Materials
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Metal Roofing
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Fibrous Shingles
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Low-Sloped Roofing
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Additional Reporting Items
Description
Acceptable Practices
Chapter 5: Plumbing
Water Entrance Piping
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Interior and Exterior Plumbing Inspection
Description
Acceptable Practices (Miscellaneous Plumbing Checks)
Practices to Avoid
Resources
Chapter 6: Electrical
Electrical Service
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Service Panels
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Main Panels
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Subpanels
Description
Assessing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Understanding Breakers and Fuses
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Overloaded Circuits
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Dedicated Circuits
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Branch Circuits
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Antiquated Wiring
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Ceiling Fans
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Receptacle Outlets
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Split Receptacles
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Polarity
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Ungrounded Outlets
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Switches
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Open, Overfilled, and Improper Boxes
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Chapter 7: Heating and Air-Conditioning Systems
Hydronic (Hot Water) Heating
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Gas-Fired Equipment
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Steam Heat
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Electric Resistance Heat
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Electric Furnaces
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Heat Pumps
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Geothermal Heat Pumps
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Radiant Heating
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Wood and Coal Stoves
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Antiquated Systems
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
New-Technology Systems
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Air-Conditioning Split Systems
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Air-Conditioning Heat Pumps
Description
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Reporting
Chapter 8: Interiors
Interior Doors
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Windows
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Wall Surfaces
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Interior Finishes
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Ceilings
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Flooring
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Staircases, Handrails, and Guardrails
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Living Spaces
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Bathrooms
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Kitchens
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Practices to Avoid
Garages
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Chapter 9: Insulation and Ventilation
Insulation
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Ventilation
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Reporting
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Types of Mechanical Venting
Description
Acceptable Practices
Reporting
Resources
Chapter 10: Fireplaces and Solid-Fuel-Burning Appliances
Fireplaces
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Solid-Fuel-Burning Appliances
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Resources
Chapter 11: Specialty Inspections
Overview of Specialty Inspections
Description
Manufactured and Modular Home Inspections
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
New Home Inspections (Phase Inspections)
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Swimming Pool Inspections
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Spas, Swim Spas, Jetted Bathtubs
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices: Tubs
Practices to Avoid
Acceptable Practices: Saunas
Practices to Avoid
Tennis Courts, Play Spaces, Playground Equipment, Trampolines, Putting Greens, Basketball Courts
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Water Features
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Wood-Destroying Organisms
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Health, Safety, and Maintenance Inspections
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Energy Inspections
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Air and Water Quality Testing
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Tank Testing
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Septic Inspections
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Chapter 12: Inspector Safety
Inspection Safety Issues
Description
Assessing Existing Conditions
Acceptable Practices
Practices to Avoid
Index
Also available in the Graphic Standards Field Guide series:
Graphic Standards Field Guide to Commercial Interiors
Graphic Standards Field Guide to Softscape
Graphic Standards Field Guide to Hardscape
Graphic Standards Field Guide to Residential Architecture
Graphic Standards Field Guide to Building Construction
A special thank you to those who helped develop the Graphic Standards Field Guide series:
Corky Binggeli, ASID
Nina M. Giglio CSI, Assoc. AIA, SCIP
Dennis J. Hall, FCSI, FAIA, SCIP
Leonard J. Hopper, RLA, FASLA
This book is printed on acid-free paper.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600, or on the web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, or online at www.wiley.com/go/permissions.
Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and the author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor the author shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.
For general information about our other products and services, please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at (800) 762-2974, outside the United States at (317) 572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002.
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Gladstone, Stephen, 1949–
Graphic standards field guide to home inspections / Stephen Gladstone.
p. cm. — (Graphic standards field guide series; 4)
Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-470-54291-0 (pbk.); 978-0-470-92156-2 (ebk); 978-0-470-92157-9 (ebk); 978-0-470-92158-6 (ebk); 978-0-470-95128-6 (ebk); 978-0-470-95147-7 (ebk) 1. Dwellings—Inspection—Handbooks, manuals, etc. I.Title.
TH4817.5.G59 2010
643′.12—dc22
2010025483
Introduction
Welcome to Wiley's Graphic Standards Field Guides!
We know that when you're on a job site or in a meeting, questions come up. Even the most seasoned professionals may wish they could look up that one piece of information that is just outside their instant recall or just beyond their current experience. There is a real need to make immediate on-site decisions—to access information on the spot, no matter where you are.
Graphic Standards Field Guide to Home Inspections is designed to be a quick and portable reference for busy professionals like you. It focuses on just the information you need away from the design desk, wherever you are.
Who This Book Is For
We have tried to give you a good mix of required information, easy on-site reference, and some common sense and direction, both for the new inspector and for those with years of experience under their belts. If you're actively inspecting homes, you will find much of this information helpful, and perhaps it will steer you to a better understanding of some inspection topics. We hope it will allow you to find new ways to deal with this ever-expanding business, which entails both knowledge of construction and solid detective work. If you are interested in becoming a higher-functioning inspector, and looking to increase your inspection and environmental menu of services, this book is for you. This book contains the critical core information you'll need when working away from the office. It's like having the jobsite knowledge of your firm's most experienced professional in your pocket. In addition, it has some tips and common-sense ideas from the author's years of experience.
How This Book Is Organized
The content of this book is organized according to a logical path that a home inspector might follow taking into account state requirements and the standards of practice of the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI®) standards of practice. Each chapter covers a specific component of a residential building, and includes topics appropriate to home inspection. Use the chapter's opening pages to find a specific topic, or refer to the index to find exactly what you need.
Information on specific topics is presented in lists and tables, making it easy to find and reference quickly. Architectural details and drawings, coupled with photographs, demonstrate standards and help you evaluate what you may encounter on-site.
Each topic contains the following sections:
Description—A brief overview of the topic, to provide some context.
Assessing Existing Conditions—Key things to look for when you're in the field that will help guide your decisions.
Acceptable Practices—Keys to what constitutes good-quality work and references to industry standards.
Reporting—What should be noted in the inspection report.
Practices to Avoid—A quick list of what to look out for.
Look to the References section at the end of each chapter to learn where to find more information about the topic, within this book or in other sources.
This symbol indicates things you may see in the field that are good rules of thumb or acceptable practices.
How to Use This Book
The Field Guides are meant to go anywhere you go. You can keep one in the office to refer to, or keep one in the glove compartment, just in case—the book is a convenient reference to have on hand whenever you are away from needed information and out of the office. We are often asked about specifics on an inspection, and having a handy reference can instantly provide an answer or another way of analyzing the situation.
Use the Field Guide to:
Help a client evaluate a prospective property.Find information on unexpected on-site conditions.Remind yourself of possibilities and alternatives.Create a checklist to make sure you asked all the right questions during a site visit.Expand your expertise on the home inspection process.About the Author
Stephen Gladstone, ACI, has been inspecting homes since 1983. His inspections are comprehensive and very thorough, but his emphasis has always been on helping his inspection clients by teaching them about their new home. His philosophy has been to provide a higher level of service and to make sure that, at the conclusion of the inspection experience, his clients will have enough good information and insight to make solid decisions and feel assured that they are buying the home of their dreams, and not a nightmare. Stephen has been a contributing author for many years, a very active member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, and a national seminar presenter, educator, and radio personality. He brings his unique experiences as well as a sound basis of expertise to this book.
About Graphic Standards
First published in 1932, Architectural Graphic Standards (AGS) is a comprehensive source of architectural and building design data and construction details.
Now in its eleventh edition, AGS has sold more than one million copies and has become one of the most influential and indispensable tools of the trade for architects, builders, draftsmen, engineers, students, interior designers, real estate professionals, and many others. The entire family of Graphic Standards resources is ready to help you in your work. In recent years, the franchise has expanded to include Interior Graphic Standards, Planning and Urban Design Standards, and the most recent publication, Landscape Architectural Graphic Standards. Each of these major references follows in the tradition of Architectural Graphic Standards and is the first source of comprehensive design data for any design or construction project. Explore what these products have to offer, and see how quickly they become an essential part of your practice.
Visit www.graphicstandards.com for more information.
Chapter 1
Beginning an Inspection
Introduction
A home inspection is a search through the obvious that looks for subtle signs and symptoms, to better identify the condition of the home, for a buyer. The process of honing your inspection skills takes time and experience, but also can be aided by some careful mentoring. This book is designed as a field guide to help you choose a logical path to follow, as you perform your inspections. The tips and information included should make this incredibly important job a bit easier.
The professional home inspection business is barely 40 years old at this printing. As a result, it has changed greatly from its simplistic beginnings, when tradespeople would give homes a quick once-over, and offer blanket approvals based on hunches and feelings. The evolution that has brought us to today encourages the inspector to be highly educated, use more sophisticated testing equipment, and focus on a whole gamut of building science information and environmental issues.
Figure 1.1 Regardless of architectural style or condition, your inspection is meant to look for signs and indicators of potential problems, maintenance needs, and safety issues.
Figure 1.2 Pictured here are some popular moisture meters used to detect higher levels of moisture in building products.
New ways of looking at ventilation and energy consumption, newer building components, and diagnostic tools such as infrared cameras and moisture meters are all changing the analysis of a home's condition.
The public relies on the knowledge and skills of the inspector to protect them from less obvious dangers, poor building products, and inadequate or faulty installation techniques. They expect us to warn them when unexpected risk or substantial expense is projected.
This field guide is written specifically for inspectors. It is an aid to assist them as they follow the routine of an inspection, and to provide a resource that is dependable and proven. In addition, the text may help inspectors to see the trees through the forest, or at the very least, help establish a path toward more successful inspections.
I have put my 27 years of experience into this guide for two reasons. First, it is to no one's advantage to repeat the mistakes I have made over the years. The second reason is my desire to help guide future inspectors by sharing. With the hope that you will do the same for the next generation of inspectors, I offer my compass so that you may guide all those who follow.
Figure 1.3 This new technology can pinpoint water leaks and heat loss for those with a high-quality infrared camera and knowledge of the techniques required to operate the equipment and analyze the information found.
Figure 1.4 Structural movement may be significant or not. Only years of experience and an understanding of construction can give you a degree of comfort when diagnosing structural problems.
Before Beginning an Inspection
Try to prepare before you go. Obviously, intensive training, attending seminars on related subjects, and plenty of field training are critical to learning the required skills. If you are not ready to fly solo on inspections, work with someone else until you are.As the Hippocratic Oath for doctors says: Do no harm. The people buying your services expect you to have the skills and knowledge to protect them. Don't let them down.Be professional. Arrive early. Do your best. Follow through. Don't cut corners.Tools
Gather the tools you will need before you need them. Use a good canvas bag to carry the more important tools into the home.
Figure 1.5 As you set up your tools and vehicle, some thought should go into what you will need, what you might need, and what would be helpful if something goes amiss.
Figure 1.6 A large, easy-to-carry bag can be brought into the home with the tools and materials you might need.
Here are some of the inspection tools that I believe are critical:
Assorted screwdrivers—Flat-head, Phillips, Robertson (square head), and stubby screwdrivers
Some good pliers—Pump pliers and a locking vise grip
Sharp knives—Razor and pocket type
Flashlights—I use rechargeable types, but you will need a few good bright lights
A digital thermometer
Water-sampling bottles from a water lab
Business cards and marketing materials
A moisture meter (preferably with probes as well as nonintrusive radio waves)
Some dye tablets for septic systems
A small first-aid kit (with tweezers and adhesive bandages)
On my belt I carry a pouch with the following:
Five-way ratcheting screwdriver
Compass
Microwave tester
All-purpose combo tool (e.g., Leatherman®)
Electrical testers—Two-prong outlet tester, three-prong, and ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) tester, and voltage sniffer
Jimmy tool for opening locked closet doors
Business cards
Thermometer
A small knife
Pens and a laser pointer
Pepper spray for aggressive pets or wildlife
Smaller-size screwdrivers
Flashlight
Figure 1.7 Tools I need next to me at all times during the inspection
In my vehicle I keep the following:
A ladder (I have found that a 22-ft Little Giant® works the best)
A telescopic ladder (I use the Telesteps® heavy-duty wide-rung 18-ft model)
A carbon monoxide meter (Bacharach's Monoxor® or Snifit®)
A combustible gas detector (TIF 8800®)
A good termite probe
Radon machines (I use Femto-Tech® continuous monitors)
A 12-volt cooler (for water samples)
Figure 1.8 Good ladders can save your life or help reduce your risk. Looking at a roof from a ladder can change the whole roof perspective.
Figure 1.9 Keeping items in bins will help you stay organized, make it easier to find things, and look more professional.
Bins
I have five full-sized bins in my truck to keep items clean and organized. They are each labeled.
1. Crawlspace bin:
Tyvek® suits
Gloves (heavy work type and latex disposables)
A bump cap (baseball cap)
A full-face respirator (3M N95®)
Surgical shoe booties (disposables)
Kneepads
Two plain sheets (blue–colored ones show less dirt) for closets
A good rechargeable lantern
Safety glasses
Towels
2. Papers bin:
Extra reports and contracts
Extra pages for my reports
Information sheets on various subjects (radon, asbestos, wells, septic systems, pools, mold, etc.)
Maps of my area
Phone books
Code Check® books
Extra writing pads
Bilingual information sheets
Pens/pencils
Markers
Radon notification sheets
Printer and charger for radon machine
3. Clean-up bin:
Small 1-gal. wet/dry vac
Paper towels
Clean rags/towels
Bottle of isopropyl alcohol (to clean respirator)
4. Miscellaneous bin:
Bug repellant
Wasp spray
Dog biscuits
Vehicle safety—Flares, cables, first-aid kit, fire extinguisher, flat fix
Referral gifts
5. Marketing/Promotional materials bin:
Newsletters, coloring books and crayons
Stickers, tape measures with your logo, brochures and thank-you cards (marketing)
Flyers, promotional materials
Figure 1.10 Keeping cards, brochures, promotional materials, and giveaways in a clean bin will allow you to present items that are desirable and in good condition when you need them.
Figure 1.11 There will always be a leak, a moment of inattention, or a clogged drain. Plan for the worst, and carry what you need to bring the home back to the condition you found it in.
Glove Compartment
Personal & Company Identification
Copies of licenses
Business cards
Electric tape
Pens
Important phone and email list
White glue, rubber cement, and crazy glue
Center Console
Phone charger
Laptop power inverter
Gum or mints
Sunglasses
Change for parking meters
Digital camera
Calculator
Cell phone
GPS
Figure 1.12 Important materials that I keep in the glove compartment
Getting Organized
When I leave in the morning, I have my appointments ready with directions and the reports for each job. I check to make sure that all my equipment is in the vehicle and that any items on chargers are fully charged.
Arrival on Site
Give yourself enough travel time to arrive 15 minutes early. No more than that.Arriving too early is usually not wise. Park up the road and wait, if you are too early. Use that time to get organized.Prepare by looking at the homes on the street, looking for similarities, building style, components, etc. Look at drainage issues and common characteristics. Note hydrants, street lighting, storm drains, private roads, and so forth.When you park, find a place near the house, but preferably where you are not in anyone's way, or apt to be blocked in. Get your vehicle in a position that allows you to escape, even if others decide to remain.Always avoid parking near storm drains to avoid losing items that can fall out of your car accidentally.Size up the home. Make sure it is the right address and that the description matches your notes.Is it the right age and square footage? Is there a discrepancy? Look for outbuildings, cottages, garages, barns. Will you need more time? Or will you have to return because of the size of the home? Will you need to renegotiate your fee? The only time you can renegotiate your fee is in the first few minutes of the inspection.If you take photos, take a shot of the front view. This can become your report cover.Knock on the door and/or ring the bell. If someone is home, ask if you can just start on the outside before the Realtor® and client arrive.Figure 1.13 Your vehicle should allow you to easily stow ladders, bins, and necessary tools in an organized and professional manner.
This procedure allows you some time to meet the seller to ask questions. It also allows him or her to put away the dogs. This is often the time you find out that the address is incorrect or that the inspection was canceled—now you may need those 15 minutes to find the right house!
Questions to Ask the Homeowner
How long have you lived here?What improvements have you made?Is there a buried fuel tank?How old is the roof? Is it a replacement? Were old layers removed?Is there a basement water problem?Is there a radon issue?Is the home on a termite- or ant-control contract?Are there some areas that are not accessible, or one that shouldn't be entered?Is anything broken, disconnected, or winterized?Has the home been inspected or tested recently?When you have the time, begin your exterior inspection—but when the client or realtor arrives, stop and go meet with him or her. You must be polite but you must also “control” the inspection process.
Proper Client Relations
Remember whom you are working for. The client should have your full attention, and any information you gather is confidential and not to be shared without the client's permission. In some states, this is law; in others, it is simply common sense.
First impressions are made in seconds, so dress properly for the inspection and make sure you, your team, and your vehicles transmit the message of professionalism. Clients should feel they have hired the right company to perform the inspection.Build confidence and take control of the inspection. A firm handshake, good eye contact, and a practiced introduction will be important. Let clients know what the scope of the inspection will encompass and how they can participate.If you are delayed, or know you are going to be late, call the client and/or the Realtor® to let them know you are on your way.Once you have introduced yourself, I recommend that you follow a prepared orientation speech. You should let clients understand what your logical path entails. Do not allow them to lead you in a disorganized manner. Let them know that by following your lead they will ensure that all the necessary inspection elements are covered.
I am an advocate of making sure your clients understand what you have been hired to do. They must understand what the scope of the inspection will include from the very beginning. The wild expectations of an inexperienced client can set you up for disaster.
Having a small chat initially that lets clients know what to expect can smooth the whole process, build confidence in your relationship, and help explain their role in the inspection.
Opening Speech
The speech should be well rehearsed and must touch on all of the important elements in order to be successful and reduce your liability. Practice. After shaking hands and acknowledging the client, ask him or her to join you in a warm spot away from distractions, and out of the hearing of the homeowners. Then go over the touchpoints of the opening speech.
“It's important that I explain what we are planning to do here today, for you, and with you if you choose to participate, and I encourage you to participate as much as you wish. Please follow me around, ask questions, and learn as much as possible about your new home.
Today, during this three-hour window of opportunity, we are going to go around the outside and inside, looking at the visible and accessible elements and systems of this home, to see the conditions as they are today. We are looking for water stains, bulges, cracks, leaks, and items that are improperly installed or just not right for the age of the home. If we come upon problems, I will explain them to you, answer your questions, and write them in your report.
As we go around, I am looking for signs and symptoms of potential problems that may cost more than $500 to repair or replace—not minor dings or damages that are cosmetic, or of lesser importance. It's important for you to remember that my eyes work just like yours; I cannot see through the walls or see the future.
You should also remember that telephone consultation with me is free forever. If you are confused or need more information—or if someone tries to sell you a service you are not sure you need—you can call me to discuss it before you spend money or get ripped off. Unfortunately, there are plenty of scammers who will try to sell you services you may not need.
Please be aware that what you are buying from me today is opinion; I am very happy to share my opinion with you, but it is not a warranty or guarantee. We offer two guarantees: one you won't like, one you will. The first is that, in time, everything will break and cost more than you want to spend … so budget for some things to go wrong and for needed repairs. Second, we have a satisfaction warranty on the inspection. If you do not feel we met or exceeded your expectations for the home inspection, you need not pay for it.
But I promise you, we will look as carefully as possible at this home, and you will be so happy with the thoroughness of our inspection that you will indeed be pleased with our services today.
I like to offer this medical analogy: If you had limped up to me when we first said “Hi,” or if your pants were ripped or stained, I would have asked, “What happened?” to gather some information about the recent damage.
If you trusted me to lift your pants leg and I saw a scar or a bruise, I would ask you for some history of your past injuries. With houses, sometimes we can gather this same history from the owners, and sometimes there is little information to work with.
If you trusted me to x-ray your leg, I would know better about the structure under the pants and skin, and whether you were able to hold yourself up for an extended period of time or not. With houses, it is often difficult to see the structure, with finished walls and ceilings, floor coverings, and furniture in the way.
If you trusted me with a scalpel, I could open your leg and better understand how you were put together, but then you would need me to have the skills to put you back together! Your homeowner will not be happy if we do any destructive evaluation of the home, but if we see areas of concern, we will ask for more information, to try to better understand any existing or chronic problems.
But you will have to do your part as well. On the morning of the closing, you need to carefully make sure that the home is substantially in the same condition that it's in now, or better. If it is not, you will have to wave a flag at the closing to discuss this. Also, you should watch for movement damage or leaks over the time you are living here, and call us if you have questions about such things. And don't forget that you will have to budget some money to pay for things that get broken over time.
Does this all make sense to you? Are you okay with what I am explaining? Before we begin, do you have any immediate concerns or worries about the property?”
Usually, clients will mention a couple of issues, and I'll let them know that we will focus on those when we get to them. If everyone is okay, I tell them I'd like to begin on the outside, and we will go over the report and sign the contract papers when we are inside, in a few minutes.
Adjusting client expectations is probably the most critical discussion a home inspector can have. This speech readies the client for the process, places the inspector in charge with the client tagging along, and clearly explains the inspection's scope and limitations. The speech is given verbatim every time, because it is a critical verbal disclaimer—to keep the client on track, and keep you out of court.
The Inspection Begins
As you follow this guide and examine the photos and charts, remember that homes and components may change. Products in use today may become problematic or create a health concern in the future. The most critical element will always be the service you provide to your clients and the relationship of trust you establish with them.
Chapter 2
Exterior Components
Siding (Cladding)Exterior DoorsWindowsExterior StairsPorches, Decks, and BalconiesPatios, Walkways, and DrivewaysChimneysGutters and LeadersSoffit and Fascia/Columns, Posts, and PiersFinishes, Paints, and StainsSiding (Cladding)
Description
Exterior facets of a home inspection are important because each element helps to keep drafts and moisture out, while helping to keep the heat and cooling in. Clearly, deterioration of the siding or poor installation technique will reduce its ability to meet required comfort levels and energy efficiencies. The result can be additional damage that allows air infiltration, water intrusion, and infestation by insects and vermin. The resulting mold growth and unhealthy conditions can cause illness.
Definitions
Bulkhead — Basement stair and metal-covered doors.
Efflorescence — Salts left on masonry and stone when moisture containing the salts evaporates into the air.
Exterior insulation finishing system (EIFS) — Synthetic stucco made with polystyrene board, which has been very problematic in the past because of moisture build-up.
Grading — The way the water naturally flows on the property.
Gutters — Troughs that catch water from the roof and direct it to leader piping to drain on the grade or through underground drains.
Kickouts — Flashing details that divert water away from areas of concern.
Lintel (header) — Metal or wood support above windows, doors, and openings.
Spalling — Crumbling, cracking, and delaminating of masonry from trapped moisture.
Weep screed — A metal stop that is installed at the base of stucco to allow water to exit.
Weep holes — Openings in the veneer that allow drainage from moisture entry and condensation.
Figure 2.1 Weep holes in veneer siding allow moisture trapped behind the brick or stone to drain without causing damage.
Assessing Existing Conditions
Most exterior components are installed in such a manner as to shed water off the surface of the components toward the ground. Caulking and sealants can keep some water and air out of details, as can flashings around penetrations both in roofs and siding. When these are designed and installed properly, moisture should not easily enter the home.
Figure 2.2 Clapboard siding was used in early homes both for its look and because it created a tighter, wind-resistant home. Watch areas where splashing may rot lower boards.
Inspection Concerns
Regardless of the type of siding, the inspector is always looking for any gaps, openings, or damage that can allow water, air, or insects and vermin to enter. Recommending the filling of cracks and openings is a given.Areas of greatest concern are flashing points (chimneys, skylights, penetrations of roof and wall surfaces). All penetrations can contribute to gaps that can degrade surfaces or allow infiltration over time.Assess all areas around such penetrations and openings on the walls and foundation where electrical, utility, or refrigerant lines enter or exit the home.Closeness to grade can cause splashing and surface deterioration. Desired minimum distance from masonry to grade is 4 inches. For other sidings, the minimum should be at least 6 inches.Remember that mice can enter through a nickel-sized hole.Seams, side edges, and top flashing details are critical to check with most siding, as well as the proximity to the soil, adequate drainage, and clean weep holes.Note water stains, damages, and insects; see if fasteners have degraded.When siding is next to a roof surface (as found with dormers), roofing should be minimally 1–2 inches from the siding.Cedar/Wood Clapboard
As with any wood siding we are looking for signs and symptoms of the siding going bad, poor installation, and other items that can degrade the siding, (i.e., moisture, poor installation technique or leakage).
Examine all seams for soft areas; examine nails for adequate attachment.Note splits, stains, damages, and nail deterioration.Note previous damage caused by painters (swirl marks, sandblasting damage, thin material, etc.).Moldy conditions can often be cleaned but may have caused physical damage.Recommend that unnecessary plant life growing on the surfaces (ivy, trellises, vines) be removed.Figure 2.3 Cedar clapboard siding
Figure 2.4 Cedar shingles. Any plants growing on the siding will hold moisture and block visibility. Paint deterioration, rot, and mildew can follow, as well as insect damage.
Inspection of Cedar/Wood Clapboard Siding
Wood siding expands and contracts with weather conditions, temperature changes, and moisture content.
Clapboards must be properly nailed to prevent movement.Ends and seams should be backed with house wrap or building paper to prevent moisture from accumulating behind siding.Butted seams should have a scarf miter and be sealed with sealant, to reduce the chance of moisture getting behind siding.Wood clapboard should be stained, painted, or coated with wood preservative on all sides, to better protect and stabilize it against the weather.Nailing should be no farther apart than every 24 inches.Nails should be at least an inch from the ends and an inch from the edges.Predrilling nail holes may prevent cracking, especially at the edges.Figure 2.5 Horizontal wood siding
Figure 2.6 Inside and outside corners
Figure 2.7 Older homes (built before 1978) are more likely to have paint layers that contain lead and other heavy metals. Preparation and alteration will require special care.
Exterior Clapboard Inspection
Examine wood, edges, and end for deterioration, soft wood, and any visible damages. Swirl marks or sandblasting or even aggressive power washing can damage the wood surfaces.Loose pieces and cracked or missing sections should be reported.Peeling paint surfaces will require prep and repainting.Older homes (those built before 1978) may have lead paint concerns. New Federal programs require lead safe practices, testing, and alterations be made by certified contractors.Rusting nails may indicate that the wrong type of nail has been used.The greater the exposure to the weather (amount of face wood exposed), the more deterioration may result.Boards wider than 8 inches are more apt to curl or warp.Exterior Wood Shingles and Shakes
Cedar, redwood, cypress, and pine shingles are tapered thin pieces of wood of random widths that can be used—depending on exposure and pitch—for both roofing and siding. They are sold in 16-, 18-, and 24-inch lengths, depending on the desired exposure to the weather.Shakes are thicker and more random in variation. They are generally 18 or 24 inches in length.Installation can be blind nailed (that is, the shingle above the lower shingle covers the nail by approx ¾ inch), or galvanized nails can be used toward the lower part of the wood and may be visible.Shingles and shakes are minimally nailed with two galvanized nails at least ¾ inch from the edge, and the overlap of the next shingle should be at least 1½ inches.Cracks in the wood can let water in, so the seams must be staggered when installed. Care must be taken not to damage the material and to make sure all flashing details are correct.Head flashings on doors and windows can help divert water away from the top of the window and reduce the chance of water entry.Figure 2.8 Very popular on all styles in the Northeast, cedar shingles are apt to be stained or painted and will last a lifetime if properly maintained.
Figure 2.9 Offering thicker protection and texture, shakes are very durable and weather resistant. These are worn and deteriorating at the roof line.
Inspection of Wood Shingles and Shakes
Examine the wood for damage, weathering, insects, and signs of warping.Shakes are typically thicker and need at least a 1/8- to ¼-inch gap between shingles to allow for expansion and contraction.Examine seams and overlap to make sure nails (if blind nailed) are covered by the shake above.Nails should be galvanized.Look for head flashings above doors and windows.Probe wood for soft spots and rot. Split boards or shingles should be noted in your report.Figure 2.10 Asbestos added to concrete created an inexpensive siding that offered the added advantage of being flame retardant. Now we know that it can cause lung cancer if the fibers are inhaled.
Concrete Asbestos Shingles
Although asbestos has been shown to cause lung diseases, there are still many homes across the country that have been sided with composite concrete asbestos material. Its popularity as an excellent siding material was due to its flame resistance. The asbestos is only a problem if the shingles are damaged, and it is a concern when they are to be removed and disposed of.These shingles by their nature are brittle and are often damaged by impact from ladders, tree limbs, and lawn mowers.They were commonly blind nailed with aluminum nails and finished with aluminum corners or wood corner-boards.This siding could be painted or not, and may have been manufactured with or without a textured pattern. Some had straight edges, and some were wavy-edged.Inspecting Concrete Asbestos Shingles
Look for damages, cracks, and holes. Ascertain whether shingles are properly nailed.Look at flashing details around windows, doors, and edges.Report damages; add warning about possible asbestos content being a health concern.Cracked/damaged pieces can be replaced with new non-asbestos-containing concrete siding.Figure 2.11 Older homes may have both asbestos and lead issues on the exterior of the home. Lead was used for durability, asbestos for fire resistance.
Figure 2.12 Newer concrete composite siding is proving to be very durable and weather resistant, without the asbestos safety issues.
Figure 2.13 Board and batten siding is made of planks and strips. The strips cover the gaps. It is a more rustic look, and the nails are exposed.
Inspecting Composite Concrete/Non-asbestos Siding
Newer-technology siding made with concrete and cellulose fibers has been quite well accepted by builders over the last 10 years. Products such as HardiePlank® and CertainTeed WeatherBoards®, among others, offer good durability without the environmental risk.These materials are heavy and require more labor to install, so watch for nail pops and waviness that may result when back surfaces are not properly sealed.This type of material may have a 50-year warranty on materials but only 15 years on the painted finish.This material is brittle and should not be installed wet.Inspecting Board and Batten Siding
Although the look is a wood barn style, many homes have this type of siding that comprises planks installed vertically and a piece of thinner board that is used to cover the seams.Without adequate sealant, drafts, insects, and moisture can enter. Thin wood may warp or twist.Aluminum and Steel Siding
Metal siding lost favor in the late 1980s because of the denting and chalking issues, and its price versus that of vinyl.Metal siding can conduct electricity and should be grounded and bonded all the way around the home.Although metal siding can be cleaned and painted, aluminum oxides (chalking) can make painting more difficult.Newer powder-coated materials are much more likely to promote easier maintenance.Figure 2.14 Metal siding requires proper grounding and is prone to oxidation. Repainting over time may help restore the look, but only if the old surface is not chalking. Look for damages and missing parts. Note that your ladder can dent it.
Figure 2.15 Aluminum-sided home with grounding
Inspecting Steel or Aluminum Siding
Look for loose pieces, corrosion, or damage.Look for trim details that are improper, missing, or damaged.Usually these are blind nailed, or screwed to the subsurface.Two-inch galvanized steel nails are typically used, 16 on center and never closer than 6 inches from the siding overlaps. There should be a ¾-inch space at the edges to accommodate corner trims.Note peeling, chalking, or paint issues.Make sure corners are grounded around the corner boards and connected to a ground rod.Stucco Siding
Concrete stucco is usually manufactured in the field by mixing and creating three distinct layers. Each layer is installed and allowed to dry.The stucco is applied over a base of house wrap or building paper and the metal or plastic lath; then a 3/8-inch base or scratch coat is applied first, followed by a second coat called the brown coat, about the same thickness, and a finish coat that is at least 1/8 inch.At the bottom of the stucco is a metal drip screed, which is designed to allow moisture to escape from behind the layers onto the exterior foundation wall.In some applications, especially in Tudor-style homes, pieces of wood are set into the stucco as a designed look. Sealing around the wood is problematic, and alternative composite trim use is increasing to reduce rot and water-entry problems.Inspecting Stucco Siding
While fractures and cracks are not unusual, especially superficial hairline cracking, cracks can indicate movement and water-entry issues.Crumbling may indicate poor-quality materials or unseen rusting of the metal lath.Where there is evidence of patching, moisture issues should be carefully evaluated.If there are wood trim pieces, check carefully for rot, soft areas, insects, and/or water entry.Examine the ground areas near the grade for drainage concerns and deterioration of the finish.