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This fascinating collection reveals the dark side of Farnham's history. This idyllic town has seen murders, betrayal and great battles, and these stories remain, trapped within its walls. President of The Ghost Club for thirty-three years, Peter Underwood has been called 'a giant in psychical research', and 'the world's leading ghost-hunter'. He has personally investigated hundreds of hauntings during his career, and brings his expertise to bear on his home county in this amazing selection of tales. The author explores Farnham's castle and many manor houses, as well as inviting us into his own home and investigating the paranormal occurrences he lived with for many years. The town's pubs, castle, church, homes and shops are all included here, revealing some extraordinary encounters with the unexplained. With first-hand accounts and more than sixty photographs, this collection will enthral both residents and visitors alike.
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Seitenzahl: 153
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2013
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This book is for my friend
Jean Parratt
Farnham’s historian and author;a searcher and researcher with a balanced mind.
And for Malena
Whose beaming smile still lifts my heart and haunts my dreams.
Title Page
Dedication
Introduction
one Haunted Farnham
two Farnham Castle
three Castle Street and Castle Hill
four Farnham Town
five Haunted Hotels and Public Houses
six More Haunted Places in Farnham
seven Haunts near Farnham
eight Other Ghosts around Farnham
About the Author
Copyright
FARNHAM town is full of ghosts. It is also a place of exceptional character: not merely because of its many lovely old buildings, its many hidden treasures, its unfamiliar secrets and its enchanting corners, but also because of its exceptional and numerous historical associations.
There really does seem to be something intangible and irresistible about the Queen of Surrey. All those who spend any time there soon find themselves falling under her spell.
Ghosts always seem to have been a part of Farnham. From ‘that old house which had always belonged to the Knight family, who were staunch Royalists and who still possessed relics of the Martyr King’ according to the reliable Allan Fea, writing in 1930, where a certain green baise door invariably opened and closed by itself every night of 30 January, to the phantom bird that haunted a house in West Street that I visited in 2012; all the family told me they had seen and heard the big black and awesome creature, as had many visitors but I, not for the first time, was unlucky.
When historian and researcher Dorothea St Hill Bourne went to live in Farnham when she was in her fifties, a friend told her, ‘You’ve given yourself a life sentence. No one who had once lived in Farnham wants to live anywhere else. If they do leave, they always return’. Dorothea, who I came to know well, told me she found this to be strangely true of the living and her research gave her cause to wonder whether the same applied to the dead!
Farnham, on the ancient trackway known as the Harrow Way, is a quite remarkable place for many reasons. But for the deeply indented boundary line between the two counties, which makes a sudden and unexplained loop on its western edge, Farnham, indisputably one of Surrey’s finest towns, would be in Hampshire. In fact Aldershot and Farnborough to the north and Grayshott to the south – all in Hampshire – lie east of Farnham! Some people are convinced that this stately town should be in Hampshire for, apart from the boundary irregularities, Farnham Castle was for centuries the seat of the bishops of Winchester in Hampshire, the capital of England before London. But then Farnham is as full of mysteries as it is of ghosts.
A haunted corner of Farnham
Miss Dorothea St Hill Bourne – historian, singer and avid collector of the ghost lore of Farnham.
Farnham is a town of almost unique distinction for, without being a cathedral city it has, from earliest times, been the home of a bishop and under his special protection. As early as the seventh century the Manor of Farnham was made over to the bishops of the West Saxons, forerunners of the bishops of Winchester. And this leads us to the first and one of the most haunted properties in Farnham: the castle.
But first I must place on record my indebtedness to Paul Adams, John Birch, Eddie Brazil, Valissa Burnett, Jean Parratt, Roy Stemman, Michael Williams and the late Dorothea St Hill Bourne who are high on the list of those who have been of considerable help to me in this venture.
It is almost impossible to walk anywhere in Farnham without encountering ghosts. I feel privileged to have lived close by for nearly thirty years (I am one that got away!) and to have come to know many Farnham people. I really envy those who have yet to visit Farnham for the first time. But now let us take a look at Farnham’s many and varied ghosts…
Peter Underwood FRSA
Savage Club
1 Whitehall Place
London SW1A 2HD
THERE is evidence to suggest that Saxon bishops lived where Farnham Castle now stands. Farnham has always been a place of importance – even back in prehistoric times its position at the junction of two great trackways meant that business, pleasure and hostilities all met here on the banks of the River Wey. It is also strategically situated, enjoying a spot on the southern slope of a hill rising to 700ft above sea level.
Indeed it is no exaggeration to say that Farnham has probably been home to men, women and children longer than any other place in the country. Here Mesolithic men dug pit dwellings and lived out their lives, close to the present sewage treatment works near the Six Bells roundabout; exploratory evidence suggests that there has never been a time in the last 8,000 years when the area was not inhabited by human beings.
The parish church (decidedly haunted, as is the castle as we shall see) is a Norman and Early English building and was formerly a chapel of ease to nearby (and also haunted) Waverley Abbey. The crypt and other fragmentary remains remind us that this was perhaps the earliest Cistercian Abbey in England, founded in 1128 by William Gifford, bishop of Winchester. The Cistercians were a branch of Benedictines founded in 1098 at Citeaux (late Latin Cistercium).
History is everywhere in Farnham. Perhaps historic association is necessary for historic ghosts who still walk here, as well they might, for Farnham is surely unique in its many and varied claims to fame; it is even reputed to be the site of the oldest village in the country. The very first traffic offence to warrant a fine was committed in Farnham’s Castle Street, the same street where the two-minute Armistice silence was first observed and William Willett the man who originated Daylight Saving was born; it is where Talking Newspapers for the Blind originated and in this town Mike Hawthorn was brought up and educated – the man who for the first time brought the World Motor Racing Championship to Britain – it is also where, just past the point where the Hog’s Back roadway meets the A3, he was tragically killed.
Among the national authors who lived and wrote in Farnham there is Izaak Walton (1593–1683) of The Complete Angler fame; J.M. Barrie (1860–1937) who gave us Peter Pan; Dean Jonathan Swift (1667–1745) and his Gulliver’s Travels; Alfred Lord Tennyson (1809–1892) who was perhaps Queen Victoria’s favourite poet; while in more recent years it has been the home of Ken Follett, Frederick Forsyth, Guy Bellamy and Joanna Trollope.
Arthur Mee, author of that sound and serviceable survey of our towns and villages, The King’s England, wrote, ‘Even if Farnham were not, in itself, a spectacular and historic place it would be captivating for its setting and for the magnificent natural country at its doors.’
Any visitor to Farnham with its many wonderful houses, properties and pubs will admire The Jolly Farmer (now renamed The William Cobbett); the dominating castle and the splendid parish church wondering perhaps at the age of the time-honoured stones in these and other ancient edifices here. What stories we would hear if only stones could talk!
This leads us to the famous Stone Tape Theory which should be considered as it is frequently seriously contemplated as a theory for ghosts; although it should always be remembered that it had its origin in fiction.
The idea that the stones of a building can, under certain circumstances and conditions, absorb a dramatic situation and then ‘replay’ those happenings at intervals years afterwards, again under certain conditions, is an attractive theory that would conveniently fit some reported apparitional appearances and disturbances. However, tempting and seemingly plausible as it may be, there is absolutely nothing to justify the theory.
Some thirty years ago a remarkable ghost story written by Nigel Kneale and entitled The Stone Tape was presented on BBC television as Christmas entertainment. The idea intrigued many people who came to believe that experiences they encountered illustrated, demonstrated, and substantiated the theory.
There can be little doubt that the Stone Tape Theory – that ghosts are the result of a natural recording mechanism – appears to make a lot of sense and in some cases even seems extremely likely but why in some cases and not in others? Could it be that certain environmental and climatic conditions are necessary? Or perhaps the presence of certain individuals with individual personalities? The resulting notions and ideas are endless but they are only ideas based on a fictional theory with no basis whatsoever in fact. Now, however, regardless of the why and how, let us hear of Farnham’s ghosts and haunted places.
ALTHOUGH it dominates the town from its position on the crest of Castle Hill, the castle has been at the heart of Farnham since the days when the ‘town’ consisted of a small cluster of dwellings huddled at the crossroads where two great prehistoric trackways met. Few buildings, apart from royal palaces, have been visited by so many famous people. Farnham Castle was one of the 100 English castles listed by Gervase of Canterbury, who died in the reign of King John (c. 1167–1216).
From the seventh century onwards Farnham has been a bishop’s town. Caedwalla, King of the West Saxons, gave sixty hides (an ancient measure) of land in ‘Fernham’ to Bishop Wilfred of York, who had befriended him in exile, for ‘the use of the Church of Christ for all time’. The wording of the charter is very clear and ends with a curse on anyone who ‘by arrogant invasion presume by tyranny to infringe or diminish this gift made by me, let him be severed from all Christian society’! As historian Dorothea St Hill Bourne remarked when we were discussing this matter: ‘They did not do things by halves in those days!’ The land was allotted to the bishops of the West Saxons, who later became the bishops of Winchester. So Farnham has no lords of the manor except bishops!
Be that as it may, this fine town has always been under the special protection of a bishop, except for one or two short lapses as in the days of Cromwell’s Commonwealth, until the division of the diocese of Winchester in 1927. Even then the castle housed a bishop although his See was newly created. In medieval times the king’s officers had no jurisdiction in Farnham, law and order being enforced by officers appointed by the bishop and responsible to him alone.
Little is authoritatively known of Farnham in Saxon times. Although the names of the all-powerful bishops are recorded, we do not even know for sure whether they had a ‘palace’ or stronghold on the mound later to be occupied by the Norman keep. It must however be fairly likely, since the site is indisputably perfect for what was the most important consideration of the time – defence. Standing on a hillside with the wide breadth of views that prevented the danger of any surprise attack, the strategic position made the place easy to defend.
Farnham Castle. Fox’s Tower is on the left.
There is, perhaps unsurprisingly, a strong tradition that Farnham is where King Alfred’s son (later known as Edward the Elder, who succeeded his father as king in 899 and died in 978) defeated the Danes in a great battle. This could well be the origin of the occasional appearance of phantom figures in ancient fighting apparel on Gong Hill, to the south of the town. Certainly there have been reports over the years by visitors and local people who have variously described arresting figures, wearing ‘winged helmets’ and carrying spears. Seemingly totally absorbed in their intent, with purposeful attitude and demeanour, the whole episode is always completely soundless and over in seconds. In addition to human testimony I have been informed that dogs have shown an awareness of the phantom forms even though no sound was audible, at least not to the human witnesses.
If our knowledge of Farnham in Saxon days is dim and imperfect, we are fortunate in having a clear picture of life in the castle from Norman days onwards. Old records reveal glimpses of the castle occupants, from the bishops themselves and their Royal guests, to more humble dependants – milkmaids, carpenters, woodmen and the like. We even know the names of many of these castle servants and minor details such as how much they were paid for their services.
There is a general tendency to think of Farnham Castle in terms of the still-inhabitable buildings visible from most of the town and beyond; the impressive major buildings that cluster round the courtyard and face today’s visitor at the top of Castle Street. To do so is to forget what lies behind these buildings and the ragged masonry peering over the huddle of roofs. It should not be forgotten that while nearly all the outer walls of what are known as The Bishop’s House and The Retreat House are twelfth century, much older buildings once stood on the mound behind them. Here domestic buildings were originally known as ‘The Houses of the Castle’ to distinguish them from the actual castle keep on the mound. An unusual example of a scissor-brace roof is to be seen in the bishop’s parlour, dating from about 1300.
Members of the original Ghost Club at Farnham Castle.
Many Norman castles were built on artificial mounts known as ‘mottes’ and Farnham was no exception. There are today remains of the shell-keep, so-called because the curtain walls were open to the sky, which is true to type.
The keep was built in the twelfth century by Bishop Henri de Blois, half-brother to King Stephen, but excavations have shown that a still older stone tower once stood there, part of which has been uncovered; it was probably built by Bishop Walkelin in the eleventh century. In this area indistinct but obviously human forms have been glimpsed on many occasions. Visitors have reported catching, fleetingly, the sight of a human being who disappeared suddenly and inexplicably, leaving the visitor wondering whether there had been an accident and whether someone was missing. When I was there with a party of Ghost Club members, three of the ladies present, who had been together, asked me about the figure they had seen in this area; concerned that someone had fallen, the figure having disappeared so suddenly. The only description they could give was ‘most likely a male and wearing long clothing’.
Historian Dorothea St Hill Bourne, who was one of the party, reminded us that in those far-off and troubled days all great lords had fortified residences and that they and their servants and retinue were ever-watchful for signs of a surprise attack, and unexpected appearances and disappearances must have been commonplace.
Certainly Henri de Blois built a chain of castles right across his vast diocese, from Taunton to Southwark, of which one was Farnham. We know this from the records of Thomas Rudbourne, a monk of Winchester, writing in 1440.
Apart from the fear of attack from hostile parties – of which there were many – jealousy played a part in the affairs of all great properties. It is more than likely that Stephen, all too aware of the great and growing power of his prince/bishop, may have been responsible for the tower on the motte being destroyed, perhaps while the bishop was abroad. On his return it would seem that Henri, determined to show that he was not going to be pushed around by anyone, not even Stephen although he was a king, went on to build bigger and better castles.
The accounts and records of stewardship (the so-called ‘pipe rolls of Farnham’) of the bishop’s domain during the Middle Ages show a whole range of buildings behind the sheltering walls of the Keep. There was an armoury, a chapel, a hall, stables, domestic offices, store rooms and everything necessary for the life of a dignitary of standing at the time.
Water was obtained from a very deep well which has long been open. Peering down the terrifying drop it is easy to understand why ropes for the well in the keep cost as much as 11s (something like £55 in today’s currency) while ropes for other wells in the castle could be renewed for as little as 2s 6d in the currency of the day.
Henri de Blois built the houses that comprise the castle for more spacious and gracious living in times of prosperity and peace. In fact they were more or less duplicates on a larger scale of the apartments in the keep and they were all connected. The obvious intention and purport was for the bishop and his retinue, at the first sign of danger, to withdraw behind the curtain walls and there, safe from his enemies, he could continue with his normal life.
That the buildings in the keep were repaired and improved from time to time is evident – there are Tudor bricks in some places – and the buildings would appear to have been in use right up to the Civil War, during which it is established that the castle changed hands three times until finally William Waller, the Cromwellian General, succeeded in blasting breaches in the walls. Today delightful views can be obtained through one of these fissures to the former bishop’s garden and the wide view beyond to Crooksbury.
After the breaching of the walls the keep was left to fall into decline and, as it deteriorated and the masonry fell, it added to the height of the mound and engulfed the remaining walls and towers. In comparatively recent times the top of the mound has been turfed and made into a garden. The remaining old buildings are sombrely impressive, but it feels bleak and austere there even on the sunniest day, standing stark and mysterious. Little wonder that many visitors have reported an unidentified and indistinct shape haunting the ruins; a somewhat frightening form, vague and puzzling, that has absolutely terrified a number of people.
For more than eight centuries Farnham Castle has been occupied almost continually, where crowned heads and the greatest in the land have been welcomed and entertained. Certainly more than a little of our country’s history has been decided and enacted within its walls.