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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
If I had a hammer: The fun and easy way for do-it-yourselfers to repair home appliances and furniture For anyone who's ever been frustrated by a repair shop rip-off or just wanted to join thousands of others in the DIY craze, How to Fix Everything For Dummies is a no-nonsense guide showing you how to troubleshoot and fix a wide range of furniture (with wobbly legs, for example) and household appliances -- vacuum cleaners, refrigerators, washers, dryers, dishwashers, garbage disposals, toasters, blenders, radios, televisions, and even computers and printers. Packed with step-by-step illustrations and easy-to-follow instructions, it's a must-have money-saver for the half of all homeowners who undertake Do-It-Yourself (DIY) home projects. This hands-on, DIY manual shows you not only how to fix faulty appliances but also tend to all those irritating repairs that cost more to have someone else fix than the item is worth. How to Fix Everything For Dummies is for you if you * Are a homeowner or an apartment dweller * Want to fix things around the house but aren't sure where to start * Have some experience but need guidance on tackling more and larger repairs * May be frustrated about throwing things away because you don't know where to go to repair them * Don't want to pay for service calls when the problem is minor Featuring clear, concise directions, How to Fix Everything For Dummies also covers the proper tools and materials to get the job done correctly without breaking the bank and important safety measures to take so you don't hurt yourself. You'll learn how to * Fix creaky stairs * Patch basement floors * Restore damaged carpets * Correct drywall and repair plaster walls * Fix door and cabinet hardware problems * Rewire fixtures * Get doorbells to work * Fix garage door openers * Unclog drains and fix leaky pipes * Mend wooden fences and decks * Repair minor cracks in the concrete driveway or pool * And a whole lot more Additionally, this friendly guide is written in plain English and includes a list of home repairs you should not take on yourself but should leave for the professionals and tips on how to hire one. Grab your copy of How to Fix Everything For Dummies, grab your screwdriver and wrench, and get to work!
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Seitenzahl: 535
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2011
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How to Fix Everything For Dummies
by Gary and Peg Hedstrom & Judy Ondrla Tremore
How to Fix Everything For Dummies®
Published byWiley Publishing, Inc.111 River St.Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774www.wiley.com
Copyright © 2005 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana
Published simultaneously in Canada
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About the Authors
Do-it-yourself experts Gary and Peg Hedstrom extensively remodeled six houses and built two from scratch, doing all the work themselves. A retired diesel mechanic, Gary describes himself as a jack-of-all-trades who’s happiest taking things apart to see how they’re built and putting them back together. He hates sitting still and willingly shares his knowledge with others so they can fix things themselves. Peg liked to get her hands “dirty,” as she puts it, fixing appliances and discarded televisions long before she met Gary. So she willingly tackled everything else once she and Gary started working on homes. Her favorite pastime, however, is restoring wood and old, damaged furniture, as well as doing the finishing touches in a home. Lifelong Michigan residents, the couple has homes in Grand Rapids and Florida.
Judy Ondrla Tremore, a veteran reporter and business writer, wrote two books and co-authored another before writing How to Fix Everything For Dummies. Her articles and stories have appeared in The Grand Rapids Press, Cadence (where she was managing editor), Legal Assistant Today, Grand Rapids Business Journal, Grand Rapids Magazine, Cosmopolitan Home, Our Children, Applause, and several other Michigan and Illinois publications. She was the Grand Rapids editor of Metropolitan Woman. Among her favorite articles were those pertaining to home improvement and design and restoration projects, because they dovetail with her deep interest in architecture and homes. She grew up in the Chicago area and has lived in Michigan for more than 30 years.
Dedication
We dedicate this book to you, the readers, in hopes that you will find it a useful resource for a number of years and that you will progress from a new do-it-yourselfer to one who is willing and able to tackle just about any project in your home.
Authors’ Acknowledgments
Many thanks Jane Haradine, who was instrumental in bringing together home repair experts Gary and Peg Hedstrom and Judy Tremore. We’ve enjoyed working as a team to write this book. Thank you Frank J. Varada and Ray Simpson for sharing your extensive knowledge about communication and entertainment equipment in Chapter 12.
Thanks Shane Hedstrom for contributing to Chapter 8.
Thanks to the cheerful, helpful, and patient editors at Wiley, Natalie Harris, project editor; Jennifer Bingham, copy editor; John Zerbo, technical editor; Tracy Boggier, acquisitions editor; and the art department. Thanks also to Jessica Faust at Bookends, LLC.
And thanks John Tremore — proofreader, commentator, and contributor.
Publisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/.
Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following:
Acquisitions, Editorial, and Media Development
Project Editor: Natalie Faye Harris
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Copy Editor: Jennifer Bingham
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Technical Reviewer: John Zerbo
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Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies
Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies
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Contents
Title
Introduction
Foolish Assumptions
How to Use This Book
What You’re Not to Read
How This Book Is Organized
Icons Used in This Book
Where to Go from Here
Part I : Gearing Up to Fix Everything
Chapter 1: If Your Broken Stuff Needs Repair . . .
Following Basic Safety Tips (Before You Do Anything Else!)
Preparing for Repairing
Tackling Repairs Inside Your Home
From Drains to Wires: Repairing Plumbing, Wiring, and More
Knowing What to Chuck and What to Fix
Making Repairs in the Great Outdoors
Chapter 2: Tackling Basic Tools and Equipment
Tools and Equipment to Keep Handy
Part II : Repairing Your Home’s Interior
Chapter 3: Taking the Creaks, Cracks, and Holes Out of Floors, Stairs, and Basements
Fixing Creaky Stairs
Securing Loose Banisters
Quieting and Stabilizing Creaky Floors
Correcting Scratched Floorboards
Dealing with Ceramic and Clay Tiles
Giving Vinyl Sheets and Squares the Beauty Treatment
Restoring Damaged Carpets
Patching Basement Floors (and Walls)
Chapter 4: Conquering Door and Window Headaches
Doctoring Doors
Working On Windows
Caulking and Weather Stripping Windows and Doors
Replacing and Mending Screens
Troubleshooting Garage Doors: What You Should and Shouldn’t Do
Chapter 5: Closing In on Walls and Ceilings
Correcting Drywall Problems
Fixing Small Plaster Cracks
Replacing Broken Tiles
Patching Torn Wallpaper
Repairing Wood Paneling
Chapter 6: Tending to Cabinet, Closet, and Countertop Glitches
Restoring Cabinet and Closet Doors
Tackling Cabinet and Closet Shelves
Restoring Countertops
Repairing Wooden Drawers
Handling Door and Cabinet Hardware Problems
Fixing Towel Bars and Toilet Paper Holders
Part III : Conquering Simple Electrical, Air, and Plumbing Repairs
Chapter 7: Don’t Blow Your Fuse: Minor Electrical Repairs
Going Over Electrical Safety Tips
Understanding the Electrical System
What to Do When the Power Shuts off
Testing and Replacing Switches
Troubleshooting Dimmers
Repairing Indoor and Outdoor Wall Outlets
Rewiring Fixtures
Getting Doorbells to Work
Fixing Garage Door Openers
Chapter 8: Handling Your Heating, Cooling, and Air Quality Systems
Maintaining and Repairing Furnaces
Fine-Tuning Furnace Humidifiers
Improving Air Conditioner Efficiency
Tending to Heat Registers and Cold Air Returns
Troubleshooting Thermostats
Getting Fans to Work: Floor to Ceiling
Maintaining Portable Air Quality Appliances
Chapter 9: Sailing Through the Waterworks: Plumbing Repairs
Before You Do Anything, Shut Off the Water!
Unclogging Drains
Doctoring Faucets
Fixing Leaking Pipes
Shoring Up Showerheads
Handling Typical Toilet Problems
Repairing Hot Water Tanks
Repairing Sump Pumps
Part IV : Keeping Your Stuff in Good Shape
Chapter 10: Looming Large Over Major Appliances
Working on Refrigerators and Icemakers
Handling Stalled Garbage Disposals
Restoring Trash Compactors
Doing Simple Range and Oven Repairs
Reviving the Dishwasher
Reconditioning Laundry Equipment
Chapter 11: Getting Small Appliances to Work
Looking at Some Quick Fixes
Specific Repairs for Specific Appliances
Chapter 12: Fine-Tuning Communication Equipment
Handling Minor Computer Repairs
Maintaining Cathode Ray Monitors
Readjusting Printers
Working on Fax Machines and Scanners
Tuning Up TVs
Using Satellite Dishes
Adjusting CD, DVD, and VCR Players
Troubleshooting Phones and Phone Lines
Chapter 13: Rescuing Your Favorite Furnishings
Tightening Loose Chair and Table Legs
Mending Furniture Boo-Boos: Nicks, Scratches, and Burns
Rejuvenating Veneer
Recaning Chairs
Part V : Working Outside Your House
Chapter 14: Sprucing Up Your Home’s Exterior
Repairing Your Outside Walls
Handling Paint Problems
Sealing Cracks with Caulk
Restoring Your Roof
Getting Those Gutters and Downspouts in Good Shape
Replacing Rotted Soffits
Chapter 15: Improving Your Outdoor Leisure Areas
Working on Wood Decks, Fences, Gates, and Porches
Working on Columns and Posts
Shoring Up Wood Gates and Hinges
Repairing Chain Link and Vinyl Fences
Adjusting Gas Grills
Unclogging Fountains and Underground Sprinklers
Rejuvenating Outdoor Furniture
Chapter 16: Repairing, Patching, and Sealing Concrete and Asphalt
Sealing, Patching, and Leveling Concrete
Sealing and Patching Asphalt
Repairing and Replacing Paving Stones and Blocks
Correcting Minor Pool Cracks
Part VI : The Part of Tens
Chapter 17: Ten Repairs You Should Leave to the Professionals
Repairing and Replacing Gas Lines and Fittings
Opening Up Microwaves
Rewiring Old Houses
Handling Septic Tanks and Fields
Repairing Cold Furnaces
Evicting Termites and Other Stubborn Beasties
Doing Complex Carpentry
Removing Old Roof Shingles
Tearing Out Interior Walls
Pouring New Concrete and Asphalt
Chapter 18: Ten (Okay, Twelve) Tips for Hiring a Repair Specialist (When All Else Fails)
Recognize How Urgently Your Home Needs Help
Get Names, Names, and More Names
Use Licensed Professionals
Check for Bad Apples
Avoid Companies That Ring Your Doorbell
Make the Initial Contact
Ask to See Credentials
Communicate Exactly What You Want Up Front
Compare Bids
Find Ways to Save Money
Spell Out What the Contract Covers
Make Payments
Introduction
I n a perfect world, after we finish fixing up our homes and then decorating them, everything would stay the same until we decided to change colors, replace furniture, or do some extensive remodeling. In the real world, we know that doesn’t happen. Even if you never break or bump anything yourself, faucets start dripping, an appliance stops working, stairs start to creak, chair legs wobble, the roof leaks, doors won’t lock, and nails pop out of drywall. We can all add to the annoying list of things that perpetually seem to need fixing. Most breakdowns in a home are caused by normal wear and tear on all of the components. But fix-its are also necessary when an errant baseball flies through a window, someone scratches or stains a table, or a toy punctures a hole in the drywall.
Most frustrating of all, breakdowns inevitably occur at the least convenient moment. If we want to tip towards paranoia, we’d say the washer detects we have a mountain of laundry to do and is saying, “Gotcha!” The furnace reminds us how much we need it on the coldest, windiest weekends. And of course, it’s always sultry outdoors when the air conditioner goes out.
How to Fix Everything For Dummies is full of step-by-step instructions designed to help do-it-yourselfers — novices or those with some experience — to repair and fix many of the things that go wrong in their homes. Because this fix-it book also delves into fixing personal household items, small appliances, and furniture, it’s a book that both homeowners and apartment dwellers can use.
We include tips about what typically goes wrong and give you a sequence of repairs from very easy to more difficult when we can. If your first attempt isn’t successful, you can progress to another that may be slightly more complicated or time-consuming.
How to Fix Everything For Dummies will be a lifelong friend to keep in your home, long after you become a skilled do-it-yourselfer. If you consult it frequently, you’ll rarely have to wait for a service call or pay for service on a simple repair that you could have handled yourself. Best of all, it will keep you grounded — those frustrating, but laughable gaffes happen to everyone. It’s not just you!
Foolish Assumptions
In this book we assume that up until now you’ve been interested in fixing things around the house but aren’t sure how to proceed, or you have some experience but need some guidance on tackling more repairs. We assume your home is slowly accumulating things that sometimes need to be repaired. And we assume you may be afraid to tackle some repairs because they may take more time than you have to spare. Or you may be more worried that a project will be too complicated for you to finish. We also assume that you may be frustrated about throwing things away because you don’t know where to go to repair them, or you get irritated when you have to pay for service calls when all that was wrong was a minor adjustment. If you fall into any of these categories, this book is for you.
How to Use This Book
Every breakdown in your home occurs randomly. One day it may be a leaky faucet, weeks later, a broken window. That’s why the format of How to Fix Everything For Dummies is perfect for do-it-yourselfers. You don’t have to read a whole chapter about fixing plumbing or working on windows to get exactly what you need at the moment you most need it. The detailed Table of Contents leads you right to the spots designed to give you step-by-step instructions for repairing almost everything. And it gives you alternatives, too. You can start out with the easiest fix-it, and then progress to a repair that’s a little more difficult if the first one doesn’t work. This book also provides information about safety, tools, tips, and warnings, as well as about when it’s best to call in a skilled professional or to replace an appliance, for instance.
This book is organized so that each chapter focuses on logical components of a home: doors and windows, floors and stairs, walls and ceilings, and plumbing, for instance. Throughout the book, new words are italicized, followed up by an explanation of what they mean. Each part explains what typically goes wrong and what to look for. You’ll find out how to recognize what’s causing the problem and the tools and equipment you need to repair it. And you’ll find the steps highlighted in bold. Additional details and information are included in regular text.
What You’re Not to Read
You don’t have to read a whole chapter about floors and stairs — unless you really want to — if all you’re concerned about is silencing a squeak. You don’t have to read the basic information about tools and how to use them if you’re well acquainted with your father’s workshop. You don’t have to read the introduction to each chapter (but thanks if you do!). And you don’t have to read the beginning text in each section. If you do, however, we think you’ll have a better understanding of what you’re dealing with. In other words, you can concentrate only on the steps that explain How to Fix Everything in your home and find the book a valuable text.
How This Book Is Organized
Like all books in the For Dummies series, How to Fix Everything For Dummies is divided into parts, and each part has chapters that start with an overview of the content that follows. Headlines enumerate specific problems you’ll encounter, and when there are several different causes, they are highlighted individually as subtopics. Two other ways to find the specific information you need quickly are to refer to the detailed Table of Contents and the Index.
Part I: Gearing Up to Fix Everything
Whether you want to fix a leaky faucet or repair the legs on a favorite piece of furniture, you need the tools and equipment necessary to perform the task. Part I introduces you to the ins and outs of repairs and explains the common tools needed. It also has a few tips about how not to go broke getting them. If your father wasn’t handy, or even if he was and you rarely paid attention, you’ll find out what each tool does, why some tools are better than others, and how you can get a quality product that will last most people a lifetime. (That is, if it doesn’t grow a pair of legs and “walk away” from your home on its own initiative.)
Part II: Repairing Your Home’s Interior
Part II concentrates on working inside the house on the structural components: floors and stairs; windows and doors; walls and ceilings; and such things as cabinets, closets, and countertops. These chapters deal with what goes wrong with items due to constant use. You’ll find out how easy most of these problems are to correct and how to bring hardware such as hinges and locks back into good working order.
Part III: Conquering Simple Electrical, Air, and Plumbing Repairs
Major structural components develop problems over the course of time. In Part III, we concentrate on the essentials, things we take for granted that make all homes livable — electricity, heating, air conditioning, and plumbing. You’ll find many simple repairs you can do yourself with confidence. There’s also advice about when it’s best to call for the services of a trained technician.
Part IV: Keeping Your Stuff in Good Shape
Almost everyone takes pride in the “stuff” they’ve acquired: home furnishings, small and large appliances, and communication and entertainment equipment. So it’s frustrating when these items stop working. And some people resent having to spend hundreds of dollars to replace items simply because they can’t find service or parts.
This part is designed to lengthen the life of some of your favorites and to save on your pocketbook as well. It may be great for the economy when everyone throws out the old and spends money on the new, but planned obsolescence wreaks havoc on most household budgets. So turn to this part in self-defense.
Part V: Working Outside Your House
Home repair and maintenance are just as necessary outdoors as they are inside, perhaps even more so when you think of roof leaks, damaged siding, rotted soffits, and structural damage caused by termites, carpenter ants, large and small rodents, and other pests. Part V will help you get your house in shape so it can withstand the assaults of weather and critters. It will show you how you can keep it in the best condition with periodic maintenance. It also includes ways to prolong the life of concrete and asphalt driveways and swimming pools, which are costly to replace.
Part VI: The Part of Tens
Every For Dummies book ends with The Part of Tens. The Tens in How to Fix Everything For Dummies include ten repairs that you shouldn’t attempt yourself — along with the reasons why — and tips for finding the best repair specialists and what to ask and look for when you have to call one in.
Icons Used in This Book
We use the good ol’ For Dummies icons to help guide you through the contents throughout this book. Here is what each icon means:
When you see this icon, you’ll find additional information, pointers, and shortcuts to help you complete the repair.
This icon points out important bits of information to keep in mind as you proceed with your home repair projects.
When you see this icon, stop and read it. Please. In some instances, fixing things yourself can be dangerous. Within these warnings you will also find some safety pointers.
Sad to say, some repairs involve major headaches you should watch for and perhaps leave to a professional. This icon alerts you to those trouble-prone projects, and points out when you should seriously consider hiring someone else to deal with them before they get worse.
Some people just have to know how innards of the doorbell or the toilet really work. This book doesn’t bombard you with this kind of information, because we assume you probably just want to fix the darn thing. But if you’re thrilled at the prospect of knowing something about air conditioners that your neighbor doesn’t know, look for this icon and have fun digesting the details!
Where to Go from Here
Now that you have an overview of what you’ll find in How to Fix Everything For Dummies, you’re ready to make a list of items that need attention. Start with the easiest tasks, small jobs that don’t take much time or skill, and then work your way through progressively more involved repairs. Then just flip through the Table of Contents and find out how to start your new tasks.
Part I
Gearing Up to Fix Everything
In this part . . .
First things first, as the saying goes. Before you can start fixing up your home and prized possessions, you need to know what you’re getting into. In this section, we give you an overview of repairing. Then we let you in on which basic tools are necessary to your future as a fix-it person, what kind to get, and where to find them.
Chapter 1
If Your Broken Stuff Needs Repair . . .
In This Chapter
Handling inside repairs
Working on household basics
Fixing appliances, electronics, and furnishings
Tending to the exterior
T hroughout the ages, people have used whatever materials were handy to build homes. They cut wood, logs, and twigs from nearby trees, moved rocks, and quarried stone to make a structural frame strong enough to support a roof. They enclosed the frame, placing layers of leaves, twigs, straw, clay, slate — whatever they had — on the roof structure and fashioned walls to keep their homes warm, dry, and safe from the elements, wild animals, and other people. From Greek temples to simple huts with mud-plastered walls and thatched roofs, to utilitarian stone fortresses, homes evolved. We’ve had homes made of animal skins and logs, clapboard siding, bricks, stones, concrete, cement blocks, various metals, and now even glass.
Instead of a single wall shelter we now have interior and exterior walls with the space in between stuffed with insulation and the components necessary for providing utilities throughout the house. And walls now are decorative so that they appeal to us inside and out.
Buildings, however, can only fulfill that dual function — safety and pleasure — when they’re maintained and repaired as needed. To that end, owning a home is a never-ending job. Faucets start leaking and pipes get clogged. The circuit breakers keep tripping. It’s too late to wish you’d paid more attention when dad or your next-door neighbor tore things apart to fix them. But even if you think you’re all thumbs, you can still do a lot of repairs yourself.
In How to Fix Everything For Dummies we concentrate on simple repairs, things a novice can tackle with confidence. When possible, we give you steps that are reversible, and then options to try another fix that might be a little more complicated or require more time and tools. But these alternate fix-its are still within reason for beginners. And finally, we tell you when to call for repairs or give up and buy a replacement.
If saving money on easy fix-its isn’t enough incentive to do it yourself, think of this: When you delay doing anything around the house, it quickly evolves into a much larger project that will cost even more. An untended roof leak is a good example because it doesn’t take long before you have a damp ceiling or wall, and if the insulation and drywall or plaster get soggy, you not only have the leak to fix, but insulation that has to be replaced and drywall or plaster that have to be redone — along with priming and painting the damaged area.
As you become proficient at simple repairs, you may want to do more com- plicated work. In that case, we recommend the most recent editions of some of the other For Dummies books such as Plumbing For Dummies by Gene and Katie Hamilton, Carpentry For Dummies by Gene Hamilton, Katie Hamilton, and Roy Barnhart, Bathroom Remodeling For Dummies by Gene and Katie Hamilton, Home Maintenance For Dummies by James and Morris Carey, Home Improvement For Dummies by Gene and Katie Hamilton, Upgrading and Fixing PCs For Dummies byAndy Rathbone,or one of the dozens of other For Dummies titles (all published by Wiley). They go into topics covered in this book in more depth.
When not to “leaf” things for professionals
It’s frustrating to have a minor repair and not know who to call or to hesitate about calling a repair service because of the standard minimum “walk-in” fee — generally no less than $50.
To illustrate that point, we only have to mention a blustery autumn day some years back. Our furnace wasn’t kicking in and the house was getting very cold. Novices that we were, we naturally called for service: We wanted heat immediately. Imagine our chagrin when we had to pay $60 to have a large leaf removed from the mouth of the furnace’s air intake pipe. It was located on the back of the house in a corner that collected huge piles of leaves!
Not all fix-jobs are as simple as removing a leaf, but you’ll be surprised at how much you can accomplish even if you concentrate on do-it-yourself tasks for beginners.
Following Basic Safety Tips (Before You Do Anything Else!)
When getting ready to repair something, you need to think about safety for yourself and your family. We’ll call your attention to important safety issues throughout the book, but here are some basic practical safety tips that are good to know up front:
Keep safety goggles handy and use them when there’s a risk of something flying up into your face or when you’re painting or fixing plasterboard ceilings.
Keep your free hand away from the cutting edges of a bit or saw.
Follow manufacturer directions whenever you use a power tool.
Don’t wear loose clothing or jewelry that may catch on something and result in an accident.
Keep cords of power tools grounded in a three-prong receptacle.
Don’t use power tools if they have frayed wires.
Use gloves when you’re handling caustic or acid materials such as cleaning products, paint thinners, and some types of glue.
Read directions that come with packages — the manufacturer has tips on how to use products and how to ensure safety.
Don’t mix ingredients. For instance, when ammonia and bleach are mixed together, they produce a dangerous gas that gets into your lungs and can cause death in a poorly ventilated area.
If the label says work in a well-ventilated area, do just that. Open doors or windows even if it’s cold outside. This is especially true if you’re susceptible to asthma and other lung problems.
If you use a pesticide, wear gloves to handle it. If the manufacturer recommends that the house or room be vacated for a period of time, go out to dinner and a movie or visit your mother-in-law.
In most cases, more isn’t helpful or healthy. For instance, if the directions say 1/4 cup of ammonia in a gallon of water does the job, don’t add 2 cups of ammonia.
If you’re on a ladder, never, ever lean out to the side or climb up to the top rung or step. The top rungs are meant for handholds, not feet. And have a buddy hold the ladder steady for you.
Never step on the drop-down shelf on step ladders; the shelf is designed for holding paint buckets and tools, not people.
When you’re ready to make repairs, one useful place to refer to for safety information is the Web site for the U.S. Department of Labor’s Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA): www.osha.gov. The site is for professionals, but it contains valuable information on all topics of safety.
Preparing for Repairing
In order to become a successful do-it-yourselfer, you need certain tools. That doesn’t mean you need a fully equipped shop or have to buy every hammer stocked in stores. But removing a screw with a kitchen knife or using plain white glue for everything is not only frustrating, but it usually won’t work. So it’s important to start with what you need as a novice do-it-yourselfer.
In Chapter 2 we cover tools — many of the different kinds available and what we consider absolutely essential to have on hand. We tell you why these tools are important, what to consider when you’re in the store, how to judge quality, and where you’ll find good bargains on tools that will last a long time. And we promise you won’t break the bank to get them. We even let you know when and why it’s best to rent rather than purchase tools.
Many people are often astonished to find out how many things can be fixed by simply cleaning them. Cleaning goes a long way toward repairing things, considering how hard it is (for example) for machinery to work properly when it’s choked up with dust and gunk. However, you need to make sure that when you do clean something, you do it properly. Have no fear — this book explains how to clean (and subsequently fix) things correctly.
Tackling Repairs Inside Your Home
In Part II we go over some of the simplest — and most essential — repairs. In Chapter 3, we talk about what causes floors to squeak, creak, and sag. We explain how easily you can fix wood floors and stairs with as little as a couple nails or screws, a hammer, scrap lumber, or a few shims — those wood wedges that can be stuffed between two surfaces. We also tell you how to easily secure loose banisters to prevent accidents, using glue and wood screws, or reinforce them with scraps of wood. Going beyond wood, you can replace or refasten ceramic and clay tiles, mend vinyl flooring, and restore carpets. And it’s also possible to patch and seal concrete floors; we promise you won’t need a jackhammer or a truckload of concrete. Our easy-to-follow steps will show you the way to do these repairs with confidence.
In Chapter 4, we open your eyes to the wonderful world of fixing windows and doors. When doors sag, stick, and warp, you don’t have to replace them; nor do you need to strain your back trying to push a window up (and then prop it with a stick so that it stays open). Getting old windows and doors back into working order takes a little time, but you can do it by following the steps in Chapter 4. And you won’t need a locksmith or new locks to make your home secure again. You can realign latch plates, and lubricate and clean moving parts. That, too, is easier than you think. Forget about lifting sliding patio doors to get them open or closed. They’re heavy, but fixing them costs little compared to the cost of buying a replacement. We tell you how to put in or fix cracked thresholds and give you tips for adjusting cranky casements, caulking and weather stripping openings, replacing torn screens, and maintaining automatic garage doors.
If you’re tired of cracked plaster or popped nails in drywall, Chapter 5 shows you the way to get walls looking good again. We show you how easy it is to repair holes, dents, and gouges, and to lift sagging drywall. We tell you what to do when taped drywall edges come loose or droop. We also explain how to banish water stains on drywall, repair holes in ceilings, replace broken tiles, patch torn wallpaper, and restore paneling so that it looks as good as new.
Chapter 6 gives you tips that will keep your cabinets on track. Cabinets, countertops, and closets frequently need attention because of accidents, constant use, and overloaded shelves and drawers. Along with repairing warped doors, we let you know how much depends on hinges and other hardware, and screws that stay tightly fastened. Even those marred countertops — laminate and tile — can look as good as new. And if you’re tired of yanking drawers open or struggling to close them, you’ll be thrilled at how quickly they can be restored to working order.
Getting clues to what needs fixing
All it takes is one fussy baby — like our first — for a parent to quickly realize that creaky stairs and squeaky floors make it awfully difficult to back out of a room silently. Why do you need silence? Because after it took so long to get baby to sleep, the last thing you want to do is wake him (or her).
From Drains to Wires: Repairing Plumbing, Wiring, and More
Part III concentrates on structural components in every home: the electrical system, heating, air conditioning, and plumbing. You can light up your life without worrying about getting zapped if you follow the steps in Chapter 7. And you won’t have to blow a fuse to do the work. To take some of the mystique out of electricity, we explain shorts, opens, fuses, circuit breakers, and service panels. We also show you how to test and replace switches, dimmers, thermostats, humidistats, and wall outlets. And then we let you in on some easy repairs for light fixtures, table lamps, fluorescent lights, doorbells, and garage door openers.
Chapter 8 is all about heating, ventilation, and air conditioning — commonly called HVAC by professional engineers, architects, and builders. Whether you can repair a furnace often depends on its age; the latest models very likely have electronic parts, and you need to be professionally trained to do much with them, but countless numbers of the older models are still around. We explain how to adjust and maintain furnaces, as well as furnace humidifiers on forced air systems.
Air conditioners use a lot of electricity, and if they’re laboring hard because they need repairs or maintenance, it’s just about the same as trying to air-condition the outdoors — expensive!
Common-sense maintenance tips include such things as cleaning out heat registers and cold air returns, and getting fans, humidifiers, and dehumidifiers to work. Chapter 8 is about improving your comfort and saving your money, even before anything breaks down.
What one problem occurs most frequently in everybody’s home? “Mom, Dad! The toilet’s plugged!” (Or it might be the sink, the tub, or the shower that’s backed up.) You can’t call a plumber every time a drain or line gets plugged. Not when a plunger costs a couple bucks and a plumbing snake just a few dollars more. Unblocking drains is grunt work; it takes a little muscle, but is well worth your time to get rid of the inconvenience right away. Chapter 9 is full of tips on what you can do. We also tell you how to unclog aerators — those strainers at the ends of faucets — and let you in on how easy it is to get rid of leaks in faucets and toilets. It’s better to fix them than lose sleep wishing that nonstop drip would just disappear. This chapter also shows you how to work on hot water tanks and repair or replace sump pumps.
Knowing What to Chuck and What to Fix
Part IV is all about keeping prized possessions functioning smoothly. We discuss large and small appliances, describe ways to fine-tune expensive electronic and communication equipment, and tell you how to refurbish your favorite furnishings so that you can pass them on to your children or grandchildren.
Chapter 10 is full of tips on what you can actually do for most major appliances. And the good news is that while longevity isn’t prized today, most large appliances are relatively trouble free throughout their somewhat truncated lifetime. So check out what you can actually do and concentrate on providing basic maintenance to keep appliances trouble free.
If a faulty component in an appliance is electronic, forget about repairing it. Nowadays, you need a 2-year certificate to tackle most electronic repairs, so you’re better off buying a replacement.
Small appliances, discussed in Chapter 11, have the same problem as do large appliances. The latest models have circuit boards and all-in-one components that a technician has to replace — if the part is available. But we explain common sources of trouble for most small appliances, what you need to test them, and how to determine when to head for the appliance store. We also describe how to check out cords and plugs. No need to throw out the toaster if all you have to do is put in a new power cord. But if you do have to replace a small appliance, take comfort in the fact that most are not big-ticket items. A new coffeepot costs little when you compare it to a new refrigerator.
If you’re like most people today, you probably have thousands of dollars of electronic equipment in a super-sophisticated, surround-sound entertainment center that seems part of your house itself. You also have shelves full of DVDs, CDs, the latest video games, and powerful computer equipment and peripherals. Probably half of us want to “fix” things when one of these devices gets touchy: If you fall into this category, Chapter 12 is for you. It can help you maintain and preserve most of your communication equipment. In this chapter, we help you readjust and clean printers and copiers, work on fax machines and scanners, and clean components. We also include information about improving your satellite system, and adjusting CD, DVD, and VCR players.
Chapter 13 is all about keeping prized furniture looking good (unless you really prefer extremely distressed furniture). You put a lot of thought and care into buying furniture for your home, so it’s frustrating when a piece gets scratched or nicked, a leg wobbles, or the veneer pulls loose. Instead of throwing it out or picking up the phone, fix it yourself. You may be amazed at how simple repairing furniture is and wonder why you ever considered asking someone else to do it. Getting rid of scratches takes little more than a melted crayon or colored wax. Split caning on chairs can be replaced. With the right glue, clamps, and toothpicks, you can stop legs from wobbling.
Bringing a fine chest or table back to life is an extremely rewarding task, so don’t be surprised if you want to do more and start combing antique shops and estate and garage sales to find pieces with potential.
Was Grandma’s stuff made better?
Your mother or grandmother may still have the stove, fridge, or washer and dryer that she got when she first set up house. Back then, large appliances didn’t have all the bells and whistles found on today’s models, but they did last just about forever. That’s because when they were made, manufacturers also made replacement parts so you could easily fix whatever went wrong. Jump into the 21st century and it’s a whole different game. Today you’re lucky to get 20 years of service out of most appliances and if something goes wrong, you’ll be even luckier to find a replacement part. They simply aren’t made.
Making Repairs in the Great Outdoors
When you purchase a home, you’ve committed yourself to maintaining it inside and out. And it can be expensive to hire someone to do small jobs that you can handle yourself for a fraction of the cost. In Chapter 14, we tell you what to do to recondition the exterior of your home — replacing missing or melted vinyl siding, getting dents out of aluminum, repairing wood siding, filling holes and cracks in stucco, and patching the mortar between bricks. You get tips on why paint peels, blisters, and cracks, and what to do to get rid of mildew. We talk about sealing cracks that interfere with heating and cooling efficiency. And we explain how to replace and refasten roofing materials, find water leaks, and add flashing. Chapter 14 also includes information about how to repair flat roofs, revive gutters and downspouts, and replace rotted soffits.
Leisure areas and accessories need attention periodically. Decks, fences, patios, porches, grills, fountains and sprinklers, and outdoor furniture are covered in Chapter 15. We show you how to replace rotted floorboards, add joists under sagging floors, spot-treat dry rot, get rid of mildew on porch and deck floors, repair decorative columns, and replace and stabilize wood posts and bottom fence rails. We also provide information about lifting sagging gates and repairing hinges. Chain link fences last a long time before they show signs of wear, but when they do, you don’t have to replace them. You can clean off rust and repaint worn spots or put in new pipes or links. We also explain how to replace burners on your gas grill and rejuvenate lawn and porch furniture.
In Chapter 16, we talk about more grunt work: repairing and patching concrete and asphalt driveways, sidewalks, stairs, and patios. We also give you information about sealing cracked concrete blocks and replacing broken blocks. You may think there’s no need to worry about paving stones and blocks, but they’re susceptible to weather extremes. And after a number of years, they can crack and heave. We show you how to level and replace them. Swimming pools develop small cracks that should be patched; if you delay and water gets behind the concrete, you may end up with a much larger and more expensive repair to tackle.
The Part of Tens Chapters 17 and 18, in Part VI, are devoted to giving you tips on dealing with professionals when you don’t have a choice but to hire them. So, when you have a project that you suspect needs a pro, or if you aren’t sure what you ask the pros when you need them, turn to these chapters for help.
Chapter 2
Tackling Basic Tools and Equipment
In This Chapter
Getting the right tools and equipment
Renting more expensive tools
W andering through the tool section in a hardware store can be overwhelming experience when you’re a novice do-it-yourselfer. Not only are there many different tools, from familiar to strange, but everything’s available in a multitude of shapes, sizes, and prices. But don’t let that first impression linger. When you want to tackle home repairs, you need some basic tools. The good news is that the ones you need won’t cost a fortune or take up a lot of storage space.
So how do you decide which tools you need? Are all tools the same? Is it necessary to buy the most expensive tools? And what features should they have? This chapter gives you a good start on what to look for when you shop for equipment and tools. We also tell you which basic tools you should buy.
Tools and Equipment to Keep Handy
You can spend a fortune on tools, but it’s really not necessary for do-it-yourselfers. A few choice selections can handle most tasks. Expensive top-of-the-line tools are for professionals or serious hobbyists who use them every day. Most do-it-yourselfers use tools occasionally (although you may use some more than others); therefore, good-quality tools that are moderately priced are sufficient for most of their needs.
That being said, we also don’t recommend that you buy the cheapest tools you can find. Always spend as much as you can afford when it comes to mid- range and midpriced tools because you get what you pay for. The least expensive tools tend to be made of inferior steel that’s either much more brittle or softer than better-grade steel. That means the steel on hammers and screwdrivers can crack or chip or the handles can break. Wrenches and pliers won’t retain a grip and you may round off or strip the screws.
You can buy tools many places: hardware stores, variety stores, home improve- ment centers, and budget shops featuring items costing a dollar or less. Our first choice for good quality tools in a budget-conscious range of prices is one of the national home improvement centers.
When shopping for tools, if you still aren’t sure what you need for your project, don’t be shy about getting advice from the hardware store clerk. There’s an old saying about how any job is easy with the right tools, and one of the main jobs of the hardware store clerk is to know what those tools are!
Looking for drills
There are three kinds of drills: electric, battery operated, and hand operated antiques. They use exchangeable bits (the cutting edge) that come in different sizes and snap into the drill. You can drill anything from a fine pilot path for screws to large holes in masonry, wood, plastic, metal, and other materials. With a screwdriver bit, you can insert or remove screws.
Some people prefer portable electric drills for working around the house. We have a portable electric drill that has an electric cord dangling off the end, but our drill of choice is a cordless battery operated model. It’s convenient and fits into tight spaces. You can take a cordless drill anywhere without worrying about hauling a power cord or finding a nearby outlet. We believe battery operated drills have caught up with electric drills in quality and power.
Battery drills come in sizes by volts: 6 to 12 volts, 14 to 14.4 volts, and 18 to 24 volts. Generally, with higher voltage, you get larger chuck size, longer-lasting batteries, and more power. Although a 12-volt is the least expensive, it doesn’t have enough power to finish most jobs. We recommend that you get a 14- to 14.4-volt drill with these features:
Variable speeds.
Chuck capacity of 3/8 inch. (That’s the maximum diameter or largest bit it can handle.)
Reversible, so you can back out (remove) screws.
Also compare brands to see whether any extras are included. One manufacturer may include two battery packs (instead of one) and a carrying case along with the drill. With an extra battery, you never have to stop working; if one dies, snap in the other and recharge the first while you finish the job.
Some drill packages may also include a few bits, but as a rule, you have to purchase them separately. Look for a variety pack with an assortment of sizes and types. Then you’re set for most projects.
Later, if you need other accessories for a special project, you can also buy polishing, grinding, or sanding attachments.
Tap, tap, tapping with hammers
A curved claw(carpenter’s) hammer handles a multitude of tasks when you’re driving or pulling nails. It’s a must for your toolbox. But when you shop, you’ll also find straight claw hammers (carpenters use them like a pickax to rip out things), ball peen hammers (mechanics use them when working on engines and metal), and various mallets and mauls (baby sledgehammers) used for heavy-duty pounding. You probably won’t need these special-duty hammers.
Claw hammers should be made of quality steel that won’t crack or chip. It doesn’t matter whether you choose one with a wood, fiberglass, or steel handle. Wood has long been a favorite, but it actually is breakable — although breakage isn’t likely with ordinary use.
Hammer sizes and weights vary, but for most purposes, a 16-ounce hammer is your best choice. Don’t get one that weighs less than 13 ounces and stay away from 20-ounce hammers. Carpenters use them to tear down old construction, but like most householders, you’ll probably think a 20-ounce hammer feels heavy and if you try to use it, your arm will quickly tire.
As you shop, compare brands by handling each claw hammer and selecting one that feels best in terms of weight and balance. Any of the midpriced hammers sold at your home improvement center will be made from quality steel and do a good job for 75 percent of your projects. You can find a good, inexpensive claw hammer in stores, and if you shop garage or estate sales, don’t hesitate to buy any that you happen to find. It’s always good to have several hammers, particularly several different types, around the house.
Selecting pliers
Don’t be stymied by the pliers displays at hardware stores. You can find all kinds and sizes, but three handle most tasks: slip joint pliers, lineman’s pliers, and locking pliers. (See Figure 2-1.) You don’t have to purchase all three types right away; wait until you need them for a specific project.
Figure 2-1: Three kinds of pliers: (A) locking pliers, (B) tongue-and-groove pliers, and (C) lineman’s pliers.
Locking pliers have a screw in the base of one handle. (See Figure 2-1A.) You can roughly adjust the screw, and then squeeze the handle for maximum grip and holding power. After it’s tightened, the exceptionally strong grip won’t slip even if you take your hands off the tool. A 10-inch size is the most versatile and inexpensive too.
Tongue and groove pliers have angled, adjustable jaws and are used primarily for plumbing. (See Figure 2-1B.) The jaws open wide enough to grasp pipes and packing nuts. A good size to get is 12 inches.
Lineman’s pliers, with two ridged jaws that open parallel, are all-around pliers that have a good grip. (See Figure 2-1C.) They won’t slip or round off the edges on screws, especially if they’re made of good quality steel. They can also be used to splice, cut, and bend heavy wires. Look for a U.S.-made product that’s 9 inches long. Although cheaper brands are available, they’re definitely inferior and can be frustrating to use.
Some day, you may want to get needle-nose pliers as well. They have an exceptionally long, tapered, straight or bent nose that fits into tight places and grips small screws or nails. There is no locking action on either style.
Do you really need power tools?
Many hand tools, including saws and screwdrivers, come in power or battery-operated versions. They’re great for carpenters and builders because these folks need them every day for their speed and precision. But power tools cost more than hand tools and aren’t essential unless you’re tackling a major project, such as adding onto the house, completely renovating it, or putting up a deck or fence.
We know some people love all the newest bells, whistles, and gadgets and that’s fine. Others want to save money for other things, so they won’t need power tools unless they already have a carpal tunnel injury.
I saw what I saw!
Different saws have different purposes, as well as different “teeth.” But you needn’t worry about keeping them straight or buying any of them until needed for a specific project. Most well known are two flexible blade handsaws that cut wood and plastic:
The crosscut saw has 7 to 12 points or teeth per inch (tpi) and cuts wood efficiently — without much sawdust — across the grain. The teeth are set so that the cut will be wider than the blade. If you need a crosscut saw, look for sharp beveled points that will give you a finer cut than one with flatter teeth on the blade.
A ripsaw, somewhat longer than a crosscut saw, has seven or fewer points per inch and is designed to make coarser cuts along the grain of the wood.
You need a hacksaw to cut metal. From the side, hacksaws have a rectangular outline with a handle attached.
A miter saw is also called a back saw. Rectangular solid blade with a metal cap on the top, it is used with a miter box to cut angles in molding. You also can use a miter box with a hacksaw to cut angles on metal or pipe.
Power saws are obviously a bit different from hand saws (see Figure 2-2). Power saws are good investments if you have a job that requires a great deal of cutting. For more information on the different types of power saws and other tools commonly used in woodworking, please visit the tool glossary at the Amateur Woodworker Web site: www.am-wood.com.
Another specialty saw you’ll see is the drywall saw used to punch starter holes in drywall and other surfaces or to do ornamental work. It has a slender 6- to 8-inch blade attached to a handle.
Figure 2-2: Many types of power saws come with stands.
Buying screwdrivers
Every home should have an assortment of screwdrivers even if fixing things isn’t a priority. Screws are one of the most common fasteners on furniture, appliances, entertainment equipment, and the house itself. Over time, many of these screws work loose and need to be tightened.
Screws vary in size and type. And because the tip of a screwdriver should be just as large as — and no larger than — the slot, cross, or star on the screw head, you need an assortment of screwdrivers. If the screwdriver you’re using has the wrong size or shape, it will likely slip and you’ll damage the screw. So for starting out, you need to keep at least six screwdrivers handy. Figure 2-3 illustrates five of them:
Medium flat-blade
Small flat-blade
#2 Phillips screwdriver (with an x-shaped pointed blade)
#1 Phillips screwdriver
Short, stubby flat-blade screwdriver
Short, stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver
Figure 2-3: Here are five different types of screw- drivers: (A) medium flat-blade, (B) Phillips, (C) small flat-blade, (D) stubby flat blade, and (E) stubby Phillips.
We also recommend getting a torx screwdriver set; it has star-shaped tips for those tiny screws manufacturers use on small appliances. Introduced in the mid-1990s, a torx screw has exceptional holding power. In fact, the only reason you’ll need to remove one is when you want to repair a small appliance and have to take it apart.
Square screwdrivers are used on RVs, motor homes, and manufactured housing.
You can save a bundle of money if you purchase a screwdriver set. The package usually includes a case, a universal handle, and an assortment of interchangeable bits to insert into the magnetized handle. Because they’re magnetized, they won’t slip out. We recommend getting one of the larger sets, at least as big as a half sheet of typing paper. It will contain all the sizes and shapes you need — flat, Phillips, torx, and square — plus you probably won’t have to buy a small socket set separately because screwdriver sets usually include a good assortment of sockets as well. Many kits also come with an assortment of Allen wrenches — an additional saving. A good screwdriver kit costs much less than you’d spend purchasing these tools individually.
Getting a grip with adjustable wrenches
Whether you’re working in the house or on your car, a wrench comes in handy to turn large nuts and bolts. Designed to give you a tight grip, a wrench has more locking power than pliers so that you can turn even the most rusted bolts in the least accessible places. You need a good tight fit; otherwise your wrench will round off or strip nuts and bolts.
The most useful wrench for your toolbox is the crescent or adjustable wrench. It has a screw wheel that moves one of the jaws and when you tighten the jaw around large nuts and bolts, the wrench locks into place. Crescent wrenches can handle most jobs.
Combination wrenches — one end is open and the other is closed — are popular too. The most useful sizes are 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, and 9/16 inches. You’ll rarely need anything larger. If you do, get out your adjustable wrench.
Allen wrenches are different and we discuss them in the next section. Figure 2-4 shows an adjustable wrench and Allen wrenches.
Figure 2-4: Two common types of wrenches: (A) adjustable open-end or crescent wrench and (B) an assortment of Allen wrenches.
When you’re shopping for wrenches, get the best you can afford. Cheap brands may slip as you try to turn them and round off the nut and bolt. And the jaws tend to catch as you try to tighten them.
Always use the box (closed end) of a combination wrench whenever possible because it will hold better than the open end.
Building furniture: Allen wrenches
If you’ve built furniture from a knockdown kit (a kit that’s ready to assemble), you probably used an Allen wrench to tighten some of the screws. Remember that tiny steel implement included in the box? An Allen wrench looks like an “L” made out of octagonal steel. The tip of the short arm fits into tiny screw heads so you can remove or adjust them. If you kept that tool, you’ve already started your Allen wrench collection.
Manufacturers use Allen screws because they’re extremely hard and have higher tensile strength as a fastener than a typical screw. That makes them ideal for moving parts that get stressed from typical use: chair and furniture legs, fans, pulleys, and many small motors. So keep your Allen wrenches handy.
Utilizing utility and putty knives
These tools don’t vary much in quality or price: You can find a utility knife for under $5 and a putty knife for less than that. Utility knives have very sharp blades that can be changed or reversed when they’re dull. You’ll find they’re useful throughout the house for stripping wire and slicing wallpaper or wood. When you’re shopping for utility knives, keep safety in mind. Look for a knife with a retractable blade so you won’t inadvertently cut yourself when you carry it around in your pocket.
Versatile putty knives are useful for scraping paint, refinishing furniture, spreading goop on drywall, and getting gum off a shoe. A 1-inch-wide putty knife can be used to fill small holes and nicks in furniture; the 4-inch blades come in handy if you’re spackling a wall or doing any other kind of wall repairs. You can select rigid or flexible blades. Use flexible blades when you have to follow the contours of shaped pieces or to give a smoother finish. It doesn’t matter how much you spend either. At less than $5, you can always replace the putty knife if the blade gets chipped or the handle cracks.
Using sockets
If you purchased a screwdriver set, as we recommend in the section on screwdrivers, you’ll have a set of the most useful sockets. Otherwise, get a set of small sockets. They can be used to tighten or loosen bolts, especially in those rusted gummed-up ones in your car.
Just be sure your sockets have both metric and Standard Automotive Engineer (SAE) sizing. Like it or not, the U.S. sizing system is on its way out. Most appliance manufacturers have already adapted their fittings into the metric system, which is used by most of the rest of the world. If you don’t remember metrics, better pull out the books and bone up on it.
