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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
Taste the real thing and discover the delights of home-cooked Indian food Indian food--delicious, diverse, and not as difficult to cook as you might think! In Indian Cooking For Dummies, you'll learn the fundamentals, plus over 100 make-at-home recipes for your Indian favorites. Even newbie cooks will have no trouble making these easy and delectable dishes right at home. With this book, you've got a suite of recipes to suit every dietary need (vegetarians, rejoice!), spice tolerance, and skill level. When you crave a Bengaluru breakfast, Lucknow lunch, or Delhi dinner, Indian Cooking For Dummies is for you. Inside, you'll learn the steps and secrets used in all the regions of India, so you can create a perfect, balanced Indian meal in your kitchen. With pro suggestions and tips about key ingredients and dish pairings, you'll be eating healthy, hearty, flavorful food in no time. Imagine your own stay-at-home buffet of rice, Indian breads, curried meats, creamy lentils, aromatic vegetables, raitas, chutneys, relishes, and more. Hungry yet? * Cook authentic Indian appetizers, snacks, main courses, desserts, drinks, and popular vegetarian dishes * Discover regional Indian cuisine and the ingredients, techniques, and spices unique to each * Eat healthily and cook from scratch, without spending too much time in the kitchen * Enjoy expert advice on how to make a meal for one or feed a large family, Indian style For flavor, aroma, variety, and sheer pleasure, Indian food is tops--and you can make it yourself, with this friendly Dummies guide!
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Indian Cooking For Dummies®
Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com
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ISBN 978-1-119-79661-9 (pbk); ISBN 978-1-119-79666-4 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-119-79667-1 (ebk)
Indian Cooking For Dummies®
To view this book's Cheat Sheet, simply go to www.dummies.com and search for “Indian Cooking For Dummies Cheat Sheet” in the Search box.
Table of Contents
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Introduction
About This Book
Foolish Assumptions
Icons Used in This Book
Beyond the Book
Where to Go from Here
Part 1: Getting Started with Indian Cooking
Chapter 1: Exploring India through Food
The Early Use of Spices
The North: Of Conquest, Kings, and Empire
The East: Tea Plantations, Tempting Sweets, and Treasures of the Sea
The South: Of Temples, Coconut Groves, and Spice Routes
The West: A Melting Pot
Chapter 2: Embracing India’s Love of Vegetables
Putting Together Vegetarian and Vegan Meals
Bringing Ayurvedic Wisdom to Your Kitchen
Chapter 3: Tools of the Trade
Making Prep Work Easy with the Right Utensils
Knowing Which Pots, Pans, and Griddles the Experts Use
Handling Spices like a Pro
Chapter 4: Shopping for Essential Ingredients
Diving into Dry Goods
Yes, We Can! Stocking Up on Canned Goods
Free-Range Culture: Shopping for Dairy and Eggs
Knowing Which Fats and Oils You Need
Drop the Beet: Loading Up on Produce
Shopping for Meat and Poultry
Part 2: Getting Comfortable in the Kitchen
Chapter 5: Common Indian Kitchen Techniques
Chopping Techniques
Marinating Meats and Other Foods
Sweating Over a Hot Tandoori Oven, er, Stove
Chapter 6: Using Staple Ingredients in Indian Dishes
Focusing on Ingredients
The Long and Short of Cooking Rice
Making and Storing Ginger-Garlic Paste
Happy Sour: Using Tamarind
You Say To-May-To, I Say To-Mah-To: Using Fresh, Canned, or Paste
Loving Lentils
I’m Not Crying, You’re Crying: Working with Onions
Drop It Like It’s Hot: Cooking with Chilies
Going Cuckoo for Coconut
Making and Using Paneer
Chapter 7: Spices Make Indian Dishes Nice
We Seed to Talk: Using Whole Spice Seeds
Ground Sterling: Working with Ground Spices
Creating a Series of Blends
Chapter 8: Building a Curry
Defining Curry: What It is and What It Isn’t
First Things First: Choosing a Pan and Using the Right Oil
Paying Attention to the Order in Which Ingredients Are Added to the Pan
Building Different Kinds of Curries
Turning Up the Heat
Adding Depth to Your Curry
Achieving the Right Color and Consistency
Jazzing Up the Look with Garnishes
Chapter 9: Bringing It All Together in a Deliciously Healthy Meal
Off the Menu: Restaurant versus Home Cooking
Taking the Worry out of Curry
Putting Together Indian Meals
Part 3: Serving Up Indian Specialties
Chapter 10: Lovely Lamb, Beef, and Pork Dishes
Chapter 11: Scrumptious Poultry Dishes
Chapter 12: Delish Fish and Seafood Dishes
Chapter 13: Vegetables Cooked the Indian Way
Chapter 14: Rice with a Bit of Anything
Chapter 15: Can’t-Be-Beat Lentils and Beans
Chapter 16: Exotic Egg Dishes
Part 4: Whipping Up Breads, Chutneys, and Tasty Treats
Chapter 17: Dishes to Start the Day
Chapter 18: Tasty Snacks and Appetizers
Chapter 19: No-Bake Breads
Chapter 20: Chutneys and Salads
Chapter 21: Desserts and Drinks
Part 5: The Part of Tens
Chapter 22: Ten Time-Saving Tips for the Kitchen
Prepare Your Ingredients Ahead of Time
Store Your Spices Efficiently
Cook in Batches
Chop Ingredients Evenly
Freeze Basic Curry Sauces
Figure Out the Proper Prep Order
Reduce Food Waste
Keep Your Compost Pail Nearby
Use a Pressure Cooker or Instant Pot
Choose the Right Size Pan and Use a Lid
Chapter 23: Ten Myths about Indian Food
All Indian Food Is Extremely Hot
Popadams and Dips Are Eaten at the Start of a Meal
All Indian Food Is Curry
Indian Food Is Unhealthy
All Indian Bread Is Naan
Adding Curry Powder Makes a Dish Indian
Eating with Your Fingers Is Unhygienic
Indians Eat Food off Leaves and Not Plates
All Indian Food Is Cooked in Ghee
Indian Food Is Mainly Vegetarian
Chapter 24: Ten Tips on Indian Table Etiquette
Save Room for Seconds and Thirds
Eat with Your Right Hand
Don’t Double-Dip
Show Appreciation to Your Host
Wash Your Hands
Don’t Lick Your Fingers
Mix Your Food Intentionally
Clean Your Plate
Bring Flowers instead of Food for Your Host
Don’t Drink Alcohol with Your Dinner Unless You’re Offered It
Appendix: Metric Conversion Guide
Index
About the Author
Advertisement Page
Supplemental Images
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
List of Tables
Chapter 4
TABLE 4-1 Buying Spices
TABLE 4-2 Buying Grains
TABLE 4-3 Buying Flavorings
TABLE 4-4 Buying Lentils, Beans, and Legumes
TABLE 4-5 Buying Cooking Oils
TABLE 4-6 Buying Eggplant
Chapter 5
TABLE 5-1 How Marinating Works
Chapter 6
TABLE 6-1 Spice Measurements
List of Illustrations
Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: An Indian rolling pin.
FIGURE 3-2: Karahis.
FIGURE 3-3: A tava.
FIGURE 3-4: A dosa pan.
FIGURE 3-5: A spice tin.
Chapter 6
FIGURE 6-1: How to grate a tomato.
FIGURE 6-2: How to dice an onion.
FIGURE 6-3: How to slice and dice a chile.
Chapter 18
FIGURE 18-1: How to fold a samosa.
Chapter 19
FIGURE 19-1: How to roll and fold a stuffed paratha.
Chapter 20
FIGURE 20-1: How to peel and chop a mango.
Guide
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Table of Contents
Begin Reading
Appendix: Metric Conversion Guide
Index
About the Author
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Introduction
If you’ve eaten some amazing Indian food and you now want to re-create it in your own kitchen, this is the book for you! You’ve probably done some research and maybe you don’t know where to begin — everything looks so complicated!
Indian cooking is complex. After all, the country is not just vast but also very diverse, with numerous languages, religious beliefs, geographical differences, and social and cultural practices. The key to understanding where to begin is to respect this diversity — and to begin slowly and simply.
You don’t need to create a feast the first time you try to cook an Indian meal. You don’t need to pound your own spices every time you cook — store-bought spices, when stored properly, are fine to use. The availability of common ingredients makes Indian cooking easier than ever before!
Cooking Indian food is both a science and an art. You use your senses to smell the spices, your ears to hear them pop, and your eyes to see the colors change. You need the confidence to throw in the ginger and garlic at the right time and to get the consistency of curry pastes just right. In this book, I help you build that confidence so that you’ll be up to cooking your Indian dinner, home style, in no time at all.
About This Book
Think of this book as my voice in your kitchen as we create the perfect Indian meal together. I show you how to master the basic techniques, use spices for balance and flavor, and stock your pantry with key ingredients that you may never have cooked with before. I take you on a culinary tour of India, which will help you understand why I talk about regional differences throughout this book.
In this book, you learn to cook rice perfectly and to make Indian breads, even one that takes just 20 minutes from start to finish! With this book by your side, you’ll feel confident about how to put the building blocks of a curry together to make one that’s full of depth of flavor and not just heat. I also show you how to cook a range of Indian vegetarian dishes that can be served as main meals. I’ve included recipes that I cook at home — family favorites that will hopefully become favorites of yours, too. These 125 recipes will help you put together various menus — from a weeknight dinner to an extravagant thali meal for your friends, where lots of little dishes make up a feast. I include recipes for breakfasts, chutneys, snacks, and desserts, giving you lots of inspiration to embrace Indian food beyond what you’d expect to see in a restaurant.
This book is a reference, which means you don’t have to read it from beginning to end and you don’t have to commit it to memory. Instead, you can dip into these pages over and over again to find the information you need.
Here are a few suggestions for getting the most out of the recipes in this book:
Read each recipe from top to bottom before you make your grocery list to ensure you have all the ingredients you need.
Keep a well-stocked pantry so you don’t need to buy every ingredient every time you cook.
You don’t need a long list of spices — my recipes call for some key ones that you’ve probably heard of and just a few that you may not have.
Prepare all the ingredients in the recipe before you begin cooking.
You may find that you need tamarind pulp or chopped herbs and you’ll be more efficient and feel more confident if you have got it all ready before you turn on the heat.
Don’t be afraid to personalize the recipes and make them your own.
Standardization of recipes is not considered essential in India. There is a good measure of
andaz
(chef’s intuition). This intuition comes with confidence, and the more you cook the recipes, the easier you’ll find it to tweak them to your taste. I eat and write recipes with a medium level of heat, but if you prefer more or less heat, feel free to increase or decrease the amount of chile in a recipe.
Remember that Indian meals have three to four dishes.
I’ve written most of the recipes for three to four people, but you may think there isn’t enough to make a meal. Even if the quantities in each recipe
look
like they may not be enough, trust me — after you’ve combined a few items in a menu, you’ll have plenty of food to fill the number of people the recipe indicates.
Scale a recipe up if you’re cooking for more people than the recipe feeds.
As a guide, if you’re doubling a recipe, go double with the spices, too. Anywhere beyond doubling, I recommend adding
half
the quantity of spices for each double up. So, for example, if I were tripling a recipe, I would add 2½ times the amounts of all the spices instead of 3 times. You may need to adjust the levels a bit to suit your own taste (a pinch more chile powder or aromatic garam masala perhaps).
Don’t be afraid to substitute ingredients with what’s available in your area.
Some ingredients found in the West are different from those found in India, so in writing the recipes, I adapted them to achieve the flavor I was after. For example, the tomatoes I can get hold of for most of the year where I live, in England, are pale and watery — nothing like the red, juicy ones grown in tropical India. So, I use tomato paste or canned tomatoes for their intense color and flavor. If you can’t find an ingredient I mention, you can substitute it — just choose like for like. If the recipe calls for small mung lentils, for example, you could swap them for small red lentils, which are roughly the same size, but don’t use large beans because they’ll give a different taste and texture. Don’t worry, substituting ingredients will become easier with experience.
Make sure you have the right equipment.
Heavy frying pans and saucepans (see
Chapter 3
) will distribute heat evenly and won’t burn the food on the bottom.
Pay special attention to your spices.
Spices are pillars of Indian cooking.
Remember that all temperatures are Fahrenheit.
Refer to the
Appendix
for information about converting temperatures to Celsius.
If you’re looking for a vegetarian recipe, look for the tomato icon ().
All vegetarian recipes are marked with the tomato icon in the Recipes in This Chapter lists, as well as in the Recipes in This Book section, after the Table of Contents.
I provide the names of the recipes in the language of the region they come from. I also include rough English translations of the recipe titles, but just keep in mind that it’s difficult for these translations to completely reflect the subtle nuances of geography and social practice.
I hope that you’ll try some of the unfamiliar recipes and see how it easy it is to prepare them and how delicious they are!
One last thing to note: Within this book, you may note that some web addresses break across two lines of text. If you’re reading this book in print and want to visit one of these web pages, simply key in the web address exactly as it’s noted in the text, pretending as though the line break doesn’t exist. If you’re reading this as an e-book, you’ve got it easy — just click the web address to be taken directly to the web page.
Foolish Assumptions
In writing this book, I made a few assumptions about you, the reader:
You’ve tasted Indian food, and you want to make it yourself.
You have basic knowledge of preparing ingredients and cooking.
You’re adventurous — you’re excited to learn some new skills, work with new ingredients, and get to know a cuisine like you’ve never known it before!
Icons Used in This Book
Throughout the book, you see icons in the margin. Here’s what each icon means:
The Tip icon marks information that can save you time, effort, and money, as well as give you alternative ways of preparing the same recipe.
I want you to become a confident Indian cook, which means I need you to pay special attention to some techniques that may be new to you. This information is so important that I want you to remember it. When that happens, I flag it with the Remember icon.
Think of the Warning icon as a big flashing sign telling you be careful. I use it when I think there’s a potential threat of getting something wrong.
So much about Indian food is context. I use the Cultural Wisdom icon when I want to point you to an interesting historical or cultural fact.
Beyond the Book
In addition to what you’re reading right now, this product comes with a free access-anywhere Cheat Sheet that includes tips on how to buy key Indian ingredients such as basmati rice, tamarind, and lentils; Indian cooking tools and techniques; and how to build a curry. To get this Cheat Sheet, go to www.dummies.com and type Indian Cooking For Dummies Cheat Sheet in the Search box.
Where to Go from Here
If this is your first attempt at cooking Indian food, start simply and read Part 2, which is all about common techniques, how to use Indian ingredients (including spices), how to build a curry, and how to bring a meal together. If you’re a bit of a pro at Indian cooking already, head straight for the recipes in Parts 3 and 4. Here, you find everything you need to plan your menu — from curries to rice, breads, sides, and desserts. Regardless of your experience, I suggest you read the bit about how to use spices in Chapter 8 for ideas on how to add more depth and flavor to your cooking.
I hope that this book will be your guide to exploring the many nuances of Indian cooking and will give the confidence to bring all those fabulously aromatic, spicy flavors to your own kitchen. Have fun!
Part 1
Getting Started with Indian Cooking
IN THIS PART …
Embrace India’s love of veggies and explore Ayurvedic eating.
Discover the regions that make India’s food so diverse.
Use the right tools to make your Indian cooking easy and fun.
Stock your kitchen with well-known Indian ingredients and learn about some new ones.
Chapter 1
Exploring India through Food
IN THIS CHAPTER
Discovering what makes Indian food so diverse
Understanding Islamic influences on North Indian cooking
Exploring how India gave the world chai
Identifying Christian influences that changed South Indian cooking
Delving into the melting pot of Mumbai’s cuisine
There is no single Indian cuisine. The more I travel through India in search of new recipes and ways of cooking (I’ve loved going on food trips for many years now), the more convinced I am that there is no other land as varied. India almost seems like it’s several countries in one.
If you’ve traveled to India, you know what I mean. The food of the North and the South (and I’m bunching vast land masses here) vary hugely and then there are countless more smaller regions to consider, too.
In this chapter, I take you on a journey through India so you can see what influences this diversity.
The Early Use of Spices
Records of excavations of early civilizations suggest that my ancestors were eating grains and spices from as far back as 3000 BCE. Medical texts estimated to be from the first and second centuries mention spices and herbs for healing purposes.
How spices traveled outside India
Early Europeans imported spices from India to use in food and incense. Around 2,500 years ago, the Arabs controlled the trade. Spices could change hands a dozen times between their source and Europe, soaring in value with each transaction, and the Arabs were the greatest of the middlemen. Eager to keep it that way, they did everything possible to confuse consumers about the origins, some stories claiming that spices grew on remote mountains in Arabia!
Pepper was prized and there was even a Guild of Pepperers in London, the records of which date back to 1180. They bought and sold spices and also controlled the quality. Things changed in the 15th century when the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama discovered the route to India by navigating around the Cape of Good Hope. Direct trade routes between Europe and the East opened, and spices such as cinnamon, pepper, and cloves became more commonplace in Western markets.
Later, when the British started the East India Company, its officers began sending Indian recipes in letters back home. Slowly, suburban English housewives began to cook curries in their homes. There was of course, a lack of authentic ingredients and cookware: Tender green mangoes were replaced with tart English apples, and curries that were traditionally thickened with onion paste began to be made with a roux of flour and butter. Basically, they started to make a curry and ended up with apple pie.
To compensate for the lack of all the necessary spices, a convenient mix was created and became known as curry powder. Even today, curry powder is a generic blend that doesn’t even hint at the complexity and variety of India’s cooking.
No self-respecting Indian cook uses curry powder. Instead, there are subtle regional spices blends in every part of the country that make each cuisine distinct.
Soon small Indian restaurants began to be seen in London, and in the last century, Indian sailors who had fled British ships due to terrible working conditions opened Indian takeout restaurants in the East End. Catering mainly to late pub-goers, they created a simplistic curry menu based on pungency. A fiery hot curry was vindaloo (actually a Goan–Portuguese curry), a Madras was medium (you can’t find a Madras curry in India, let alone an area called Madras), and a korma was mild (a chile korma can be super spicy in India). Along the way, the popular curry known as chicken tikka masala was invented and caught the fancy of the British public; today it’s one of the highest-selling ready meals.
Menus based on heat levels have thrived until present day, and people who have only eaten restaurant food believe it to be the real thing. In this book, I hope to show you how diverse Indian cooking really is and that heat is just one of the things to consider when creating your meal.
The influences that make Indian cooking so diverse
With so many regions, it’s easy to be perplexed by the variety in Indian cooking. If I tell you that India is a vast country, you may reply that there are many other vast countries in the world. That’s completely true, but none has a cuisine that changes every few miles. Here are the reasons Indian cooking is so diverse:
Climate:
You may think that all of India is a hot country because it’s in a tropical part of the world, but there are many places in the country that are cold enough to experience snowfall. When we’re in a hot place, we want to eat cooling foods, like ice cream. But it’s India, so we’ll talk about spices. Chilies contain a compound called
capsaicin
in their membranes; capsaicin is what makes them hot, but when we eat them, capsaicin also makes our blood vessels dilate and makes us sweat. Have you seen some people mopping their foreheads when eating a hot curry? Sweating helps us cool down, and that’s why in hotter parts of India such as the South, which is nearer the equator, recipes have lots of chilies. You’ll find milder curries spiced with pepper in the colder regions.
Geography:
In such a big country, eating local food and not paying for transport costs is definitely cheaper. Local recipes make the most of ingredients that grow close by, so you’ll find coconut-based curries in the South and wheat breads in the North. The desert state of Rajasthan uses few fresh vegetables. The ones that do grow are dried and cooked with fiery spices to combat the searingly hot and dry climate. The availability of water is a big contributor to food diversity. In fertile regions that are fed by rivers and seas, more crops can grow. Similarly, there are a variety of soil conditions all over India — the rich black soil of Western India supports the growth of millet, whereas the alluvial soil of Punjab in the North is good for wheat.
Religious beliefs:
India is home to many major religious groups. Growing up in cosmopolitan Bombay (as Mumbai was then called), I had Hindu, Muslim, Jain, Christian, Jewish, and Buddhist friends, and we all celebrated each other’s festivals and foods. We knew that some Hindu friends would be vegetarian, whereas others would eat meat but never beef. Our Muslim friends didn’t eat pork. The Jains didn’t eat root vegetables (their way of life is based on nonviolence, so killing of life forms by uprooting vegetables is prohibited). The cuisine of each community is based on these religious beliefs and meant that I was eating vastly diverse foods from when I was quite little.
Trade, migration, and conquest:
I don’t like to use the word
authentic
when speaking about Indian cooking. Although the cuisine is ancient, there are so many foreign influences that make it what it is today. (I explain more about this concept in the sections that follow.) At the heart of the cuisine is the world’s need for India’s spices and what each of the foreign powers brought with them in exchange. Pepper, the spice that started it all, is said to have changed the history of the world.
The North: Of Conquest, Kings, and Empire
If you travel through North India, you’ll be struck by the beautiful Islamic and British architecture in many cities. Over many centuries, parts of this vast region of India have been ruled by the Greeks, the Mughals, and the British. The food you’ll eat here is a result of these conquests, and perhaps Mughal cooking was the one that changed the culinary scene the most.
Delhi: The Mughals and Islamic influences
New Delhi is the modern capital of India. It has a cosmopolitan population of politicians, diplomats, and business officials, and the cuisine reflects the diversity of its past history. The streets are lined with stalls selling tandoor cooked foods, crisp samosas, and rich biryanis. As evening turns to dusk, the city’s rich and famous dress up in their best silks to attend countless cocktail and dinner parties where tables creak with the best of Mughlai food.
This is a legacy left by the Mughal rulers who reigned over a large part of India from their capital Delhi from 1526, before the British took over. The cuisine was influenced by Persian and Turkish cooking as the rulers had ties with these cultures (the official language of the Mughal rulers was Persian). Today’s korma, biryani, kofta, and kebab are a Mughal legacy and have become mainstream North Indian dishes. Traces of Mughlai cooking can be seen in some southern cities such as Hyderabad, where the Mughal Empire extended to.
Because of the Islamic origins of this style of cooking, and in reverence to the many Hindu courtiers that advised the kings, pork and beef dishes were not included. Indian restaurants offering Mughlai food today serve it up as a mild, delicious cuisine based on creamy or nut-based curries laced with dried fruits and rich spices, such as saffron and cardamom. Desserts are flavored with rose water and pistachios, and the recipes are typically richer than those found in other parts of India. This is an indulgent cuisine; in India, it’s seen as a treat.
The foothills of the Himalayas: Basmati rice
Although India grows many different varieties of rice, basmati is the best known outside its country of origin. This beautiful, aromatic (the name basmati means “fragrant”), long-grained rice finds the climatic and soil conditions at the bases of the Himalayan mountain range ideal.
In India, basmati rice is considered special and is more expensive than other rice varieties. This is because it’s a uniquely slender grain that cooks up fluffy, a trait that’s valued in Indian cooking. To enhance this quality of cooking into separate grains, it’s aged in warehouses where conditions such as light, air, temperature, and humidity are highly controlled. This results in each grain drying and forming a light skin, which can effectively seal the grain and help lock in the starch. The aging process can take anywhere from a year and a half to two years, the longer period yielding a more expensive rice.
When the British divided India at the time of independence in 1947, a part of this basmati-growing territory fell in the newly formed country of Pakistan. The cuisines of both countries celebrate this superlative grain in dishes such as biryani and pulao.
Punjab and the Partition of India
A number of Indians who live outside of India are Punjabi in origin. Around the time of Partition, when the state of Punjab got divided, Hindus living in the newly formed country of Pakistan and Muslims living in the Indian part of Punjab crossed borders, giving rise to one of the world’s largest human migrations. The chaos, genocide, and displacement meant that some people fled to postwar Britain where jobs were available along with the opportunity to begin life anew.
They brought with them the unique food of the North — so much so that, today, in many parts of the world, when someone talks of Indian cooking, it’s Punjabi food that they’re referring to. Rich onion- and tomato-flavored curries, aloo gobi, saag paneer, or the delicious tandoori foods (cooked slowly in a clay oven called the tandoor), even the naans and parathas, all came from Punjab.
Ingredients that you would commonly find in a Punjabi kitchen are beans such as chickpeas and red kidney beans; black lentils; vegetables such as cauliflower, potatoes, peas, and turnips; and whole-wheat flour to make many kinds of breads. Punjab grows a lot of wheat and was once known as the granary of India.
There are many stories about how tandoori cooking came to be associated with India. It was already being used in undivided Punjab and, after Partition, found its way to the Indian side of the state. Because a tandoor is quite large and needs to be brought to the right temperature over some time (as you do with a barbecue), it was impractical for every Punjabi home to fire one up every evening. Communal tandoors were set up, with each village having one. People prepared their dough at home and took it to the village tandoor to have their rotis cooked. Eventually, commercial tandoori shops offered cooked breads to take away, and the communal tandoor became less of a ritual; today, only a few villages have one.
Kashmir and its saffron fields
Kashmir is one of the most beautiful states of India, resplendent with green valleys, flowing waterfalls, pine forests, and fruit-filled orchards. Due to its proximity to the Himalayas, Kashmir was the natural passage to India for many invaders. Its cuisine is, therefore, a mix of Indian, Persian, and Afghan styles.
The cooking of Kashmir is best showcased in the Wazawan or traditional Kashmiri feast. Even today, the master chefs of Kashmir are hailed as the descendants of the traditional chefs from Samarkand, the Wazas who came to India with the ruler Timur when he entered India in the 15th century. The royal Wazawan, comprising 36 courses, is a feast that few can get through. The meal begins with the ritual of washing the hands. Then the tramis (dishes filled with food) begin to arrive. The entrees are eaten with a sticky, dense variety of rice, which is prized. Much of the Wazawan is meat-based because this is a sign of affluence, but vegetarian dishes with lotus root or potatoes are also served.
Two distinct groups of people live in Kashmir — the Muslims and the Hindus — and their cuisines are also distinct. Spices such as dried ginger, ground fennel, and saffron, which grow in Kashmir, are used. This state is known for its quality saffron. The bright red stigma of the saffron crocus flower produces the spice, which is considered the most expensive one in the world. The cost is due to the labor-intensive harvesting process where around 200,000 stigmas need to be collected to make up a pound of saffron!
Saffron is even used in the tea in Kashmir. Kahwa is green tea flavored with saffron, spices, and nuts.
The East: Tea Plantations, Tempting Sweets, and Treasures of the Sea
The food of East India is also influenced by trade and colonization. Parts of this region share a border with neighboring China and Myanmar, so those influences are evident; you’ll find ingredients such as pork, bamboo shoots, and soya beans. Don’t be fooled into thinking that all the food here is gentle and mild — this region is also home to one of the world’s most fiery chilies, the bhut jolokia, or ghost chile, which is so hot that one little taste and you yourself will become a ghost.
Tea and the British
Have you heard that India is one of the world’s largest producers of tea? Much of it is drunk in house, so we have a nation of tea lovers. The industry as we know it today was introduced to India by the British. The Dutch had brought tea back to Europe from the 17th century, and the British considered it to be both a medicinal and a refreshing drink.
China was the only country growing tea at the time, and the British wanted to topple China’s monopoly. So, they smuggled opium into China with the aim of exchanging it for tea and even got Bengali farmers to grow opium for them instead of staple crops needed to feed the masses. This did not impress the Chinese.
Early tea plantations were set up in the hilly regions of Assam from 1837. Soon after, tea estates mushroomed in Darjeeling. Both these eastern areas had perfect growing conditions, and even today, driving through the beautiful mountain roads, you can only admire the step plantations carved into every hillside.
In India, everything needs to be spiced with masala, so it isn’t surprising that the brew was enhanced with ginger, cardamom, and fennel seeds to make Masala Chai (Spiced Tea; see Chapter 21). The Indian word for tea is chai, and I’ve heard it comes from the Chinese word cha. This delicious brew has caught the world’s fancy (although strangely called chai tea, which translates as “tea tea,” in the West) and seems to be a much-loved flavor in lattes and ice creams.
Kolkata and Bengali sweets
The mere mention of Indian sweets, and I see eyes being rolled and a muttered, “Too sweet for me.” Most people not of Indian origin think of all Indian sweets as being cloying. But wait, have you ever had a box of chocolates? It’s the same principle: Commercially available sweets have a lot of sugar to increase their shelf life. Indian homemade desserts are subtly flavored confections (see Chapter 21 for some easy and delicious recipes) bursting with fruit, milk, spice, and all things nice.
The eastern state of Bengal is particularly known for its sweet offerings. According to historians, the original name of the area was Gauda, derived from the Sanskrit word for jaggery, the sweet, thickened juice of sugarcane. Because this crop grew here in plenty, and old texts affirm this, it can be safely said that sweets were an important part of the cuisine for several centuries.
But Bengali sweets are unlike those of anywhere else in the country, mainly because many are made with cottage cheese as a base. I’ve heard that the Portuguese, who were in India before the British, brought the skill of cheese making to Bengal. The Hindus considered the curdling of milk taboo, but that didn’t stop them from falling in love with the resulting delicacies. They quickly created recipes using fresh cottage cheese, spices, sugar, and nuts and produced pillowy-soft confections that melted in the mouth and left you wanting more. As these began to be mass produced in factories, the sugar content increased. Today, the gulab jamuns and ras malai you see on Indian restaurant menus have set the stage for everyone thinking that all Indian sweets are syrupy sweet.
Odisha and fish with everything
The state of Odisha enjoys a long coastline along the Bay of Bengal, so it’s hardly surprising that fish features regularly on many dinner tables there. Lying on the east coast, Odisha nestles between the South and the North, so the food is inspired by both. The Northern part of Odisha, which borders Bengal, uses mustard paste in curries, whereas southern districts use tamarind, in keeping with South Indian traditions.
I don’t hear people around the world talk much about Odia cooking, but this state has produced some of the best cooks of the East. They’re known for a simple yet flavorful style, so they’re in high demand in other parts of India. Many centuries ago, Odisha built maritime trade ties with Bali in Indonesia, and no doubt they also introduced Indian spices and curry pastes to that land.
The South: Of Temples, Coconut Groves, and Spice Routes
I think of the South as the states of Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, and Goa. Each has a unique cuisine, with a few similarities because of what crops grow there and the climate they share.
Sacred foods
All food is considered sacred in India. Nature is worshipped for its generosity, and many ingredients that come from the earth are revered. Wasting food is seen as an insult to the benevolence we are blessed with. Rice, for example, is seen as a staple that can feed countless people and is associated with abundance. Turmeric, the spice, has been valued for its healing properties for centuries and is used in rituals of cleansing and purification.
Invasions through land routes preceded those from sea routes, which were discovered much later. Southern India is surrounded by sea, so it saw relatively fewer foreign invasions, and the ones it did see came later than in the North. It’s believed that the native culture of India, both religious and spiritual, is better preserved in the South. Because religion is so pervasive through every aspect of life in India, the food here is also influenced by these beliefs.
South India is well known for its many beautifully sculpted temples. On many of my travels to these temples, I’ve found, to my great delight, sculptures of ancient foods that were served to devotees who visited or given as offerings to the gods. Some of these carvings are 800 years old and seem like a novel way to preserve the region’s culinary heritage!
Goa and the Portuguese influence
Although most people think of Goa as a beach holiday destination, its culinary history is fascinating for what it did to all food in India. As the demand for spices grew in the Western world, Europeans set out in search of the lands that grew them. The Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama reached the Malabar Coast in Kerala in 1498 and opened the routes for the spice trade.
The Portuguese invaded Goa in 1510 and brought great changes to the cuisine and culture of the region. Many Hindus were converted to Christianity, and people who had earlier not eaten beef and pork began to cook these foods in their homes.
The Portuguese brought to India many ingredients that some people may think are native. Chilies, cashews, potatoes, and tomatoes forever changed the way recipes were prepared. Chilies replaced black pepper, and today, tons of chilies grow all over India, finding their way into almost every savory dish.
Leavened bread called pao is another Portuguese food that has endured over the centuries. It’s eaten dipped into sweet tea for breakfast or with curries like the vindaloo, another Portuguese-inspired Goan dish. Made up of the Portuguese words for wine and garlic — vino and alho, respectively — the dish has been interpreted by Indian restaurants around the world as the hottest curry on the menu. People outside India may think of it as being one of the country’s best loved curries, so predictable and constant is its presence on menus. In India, it’s a tangy, hot curry spiced with chilies, vinegar, and spices that is eaten locally in Goa and is not ubiquitously popular all over the country.
Kerala and its Hindu, Christian, and Muslim cooking
Kerala, which means “land of coconuts,” is one of the best places to visit if you love Indian food but want more than the usual tikka and korma. A small state with the hilly Western Ghats on one side and the azure Arabian Sea on the other, its cuisine is inspired by its 560 miles of backwaters. On the banks of these intricate waterways grow coconuts, bananas, and spices such as pepper and cardamom. The backwaters also provide Kerala’s best delicacy, a silvery-black fish called karimeen or pearlspot, which is cooked with hot spices in a banana leaf. Coconut is used in some form (oil, milk, or flesh; grated, roasted, or powdered) in almost every recipe.
Foreign influences are apparent in its cuisine here, too. Judaism and Christianity both came to Kerala many centuries ago, and modern Syrian Christians (the majority Christian population in this state) believe that the Apostle Thomas came here and baptized their ancestors. Later, the Portuguese arrived and continued the conversions, this time to Catholicism.
Early spice routes were controlled by the Arabs. Kerala being the region of India where so many were grown, it’s easy to understand how Islam was introduced to this region around the seventh century.
Today, the Kerala Christian table is laden with beef and pork stews, the Muslim one with biryanis and breads such as parottas, and the Hindu kitchen is fragrant with coconut and vegetable or fish curries.
Tamil Nadu temples and their fragrant cuisines
Hindus follow practices that appeal to them from Hinduism’s various philosophies and beliefs and build a relationship with a favorite deity chosen from the vast pantheon of gods. One such practice is the offering of special foods to the gods. These foods are cooked in a special way that is considered pure; so, the cook will enter the kitchen only after a cleansing bath, use “allowed” ingredients (disallowed ingredients include foods such as meat, fish, onions, and garlic), and cook with love and devotion. Most Hindu temples of worship have a kitchen attached, and the blessed foods cooked here are distributed to devotees who come from far and wide, free of cost.
Temple foods always seem to taste good and, because they serve the community, their availability means that needy people who live in the vicinity never go hungry. They’re available to everyone, so if you do get an opportunity to visit, it’s a good idea to sample this truly divine food.
The West: A Melting Pot
I was born and raised in Mumbai, which was then called Bombay. As the commercial capital of India, Mumbai attracts people from all over the country who come to work in finance, business, or films. (India’s film industry, which produces the largest number of films every year, is based here.) The cuisine of Western India is a wonderful mix, and I grew up thinking that what I ate was what all of India was eating. Only when I trained as a chef did I realize how privileged I was to have had all of India on my plate in my very own home!
Mumbai and the Parsi influence
India saw two important migrations from Iran. The first were the Zoroastrians, called the Parsis, who arrived around the eighth century as they fled from religious persecution. They arrived on the west coast of India. From here, they moved to other parts of the country, many settling in Mumbai. Their cuisine is a fabulous mix of Indian, Persian, and European styles and is very much a part of the cuisine of modern Mumbai. Signature dishes include dhansak and patia.
The second group of people were migrants from Iran who came to Bombay in the 19th century for economic reasons. They set up Irani cafes, known for their distinctive decor, uncomfortable bentwood chairs (no one is encouraged to linger because trade is brisk), and a unique menu that features dishes like puff-pastry patties, bread pudding, and ground meat curries served with bread. These cafes (very reasonably priced) are popular among students and office workers.
This cuisine is one of my favorites, so I always look forward to being invited to a Parsi wedding. I know the feast will be an extravaganza of fried chicken, meat curries, and delicious desserts served with jewel-colored sodas.
Pune and the Sindhi influence
The Partition of India and Pakistan was a major event that has shaped the history of modern India. Around a million Hindu Sindhis, who lived in the Sindh province, now in Pakistan, are said to have moved to India. Many settled around Bombay and the nearest large town, Pune. They brought a cuisine that was infused with Persian and Arabic flavors but was essentially cooked with a few Indian spices. I’ve seen a good number of fried foods, such as breads and potatoes, in this meal that are hazardous to my waistline, but there are also recipes for green vegetables, lentils, and chicken that I love for their freshness. My Sindhi friends often serve papads (popadams; the Sindhis are well known for their love of these) with the meal, but never with dips as found in Indian restaurants in the West.
Konkan’s golden coastlines
I’ve never forgotten the short plane trip I made a few years ago from Mumbai to Mangalore on the west coast of India. The plane flew low, and the view was unbroken blue sea bordered by a narrow strip of golden sand merging with lush palm trees. The Arabian Sea along the coast of Konkan provides the perfect ingredients for a cuisine rich in fish and seafood. The trees give coconuts that are grated into curries to make creamy sauces. Tangy fish curries flavored with tamarind or kokum (a sour local fruit) are eaten with rice and fried fish or shrimp, dusted with chile powder, salt, and garlic; they make a regular appearance on the Konkani table.
The fish markets on the coast are great for tourists, too, because you can just soak up the atmosphere. At around 7 a.m., the boats come into the dock and, amidst much excitement and shouting, the catch is offloaded into baskets on shore. Fishmongers and restaurants quickly buy what they want, and the rest is sold to home cooks. Never will you find fresher catch available — and often at a very good price!
Gujarat and its extravagant thalis
Gujarat is the mango-shaped state to the west of India. It’s famous for its delicate, vegetarian cuisine and especially for the thali, a metal plate with several small bowls filled with an array of tempting dishes. The word thali means “metal plate,” but the term has also come to denote the meal that is served on one. A thali has rice, breads, fried accompaniments called farsans, vegetables, lentils, and sweets, all served at once. There are no courses, and you can mix and match dishes as you like.
Because there are so many dishes in this feast, preparing it at home is time-consuming and expensive. Most people go to a specialty restaurant (or a wedding) to enjoy it. It’s quite an experience, and best of all, you can eat as much as you want for a fixed price. I think most people grudgingly stop eating because of guilt (what will the waiter say?) or food fatigue (I don’t think I’ll make it to the door!). You can find more about how to create your own thali meal in Chapter 9.
Chapter 2
Embracing India’s Love of Vegetables
IN THIS CHAPTER
Putting together vegetarian and vegan meals
Understanding Ayurveda
You may have heard that India is the vegetarian capital of the world. It has the largest number of vegetarians, and meat consumption is low. However, Indian cuisine also has a delicious and varied meat, poultry, and fish repertoire.
In India, vegetarian food is the default. If you eat meat, you’re referred to as a “nonvegetarian.” Most restaurants have both vegetarian and nonvegetarian offerings, and plenty of them cater exclusively to vegetarians. Most religious feasts, such as Hindu weddings, are vegetarian, but to be honest, I’ve never had a boring one. The vegetarian repertoire of Indian cooking is infinite and delicious!
In this chapter, I tell you how to put together a vegetarian or vegan meal and how to incorporate Ayurveda into your diet.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF VEGETARIANISM IN INDIA
India’s association with vegetarianism goes back almost two millennia. Thousands of years ago, animals were hunted for food and meat was eaten regularly. The anti-meat sentiment began to be felt with the rise of Buddhism and Jainism, the founders of which, the Buddha and Lord Mahavira, respectively, taught their followers the doctrines of nonviolence. As more and more people began to convert to these belief systems, Hindu priests, fearing that a great number of their people would convert from Hinduism to these more peaceful ways, also began preaching against the killing of animals. They prescribed a vegetarian diet as being more worthy than the older ideas of animal sacrifice.
Today, almost 85 percent of India follows Hinduism, and some of these people are vegetarian (most of the time for religious reasons). However, not all Hindus are vegetarian — caste and community also affect this choice. Most nonvegetarians eat meat or fish perhaps once or twice a week because it can be expensive. This choice is not seen as a difficult one because of the huge array of vegetables, lentils, beans, and dairy products available.
Modern trade, as well as human migration, has meant that Indian vegetarian food has become more popular and available all over the world.
Putting Together Vegetarian and Vegan Meals
If you’ve just embarked on a vegetarian or vegan lifestyle, or even if you’re just cutting down on your meat consumption, Indian food has lots to offer. You’ll want to think not only about stripping your current diet of animal products but also about how to build a sustainable, balanced way of vegetarian or vegan eating that keeps you satisfied and healthy.
Indian meals are a balance of carbohydrates, proteins, fat, and fiber that comes from beans, legumes, and vegetables. There are plenty of options to choose from when planning your vegetarian menu. Leaving out dairy products (such as ghee, yogurt, and milk) and other animal products (like honey) can make it vegan, too. In India, eggs are considered nonvegetarian.
Here are some tips for putting together a vegetarian or vegan meal:
Think of your daily nutritional requirements.
It’s all too easy to pick carbohydrates such as rice and bread and add vegetables to make up a vegetarian meal, but you’ll want to be adding those proteins, too. Getting a balance of nutrients will make it a healthy meal. Here’s how to get enough fat and protein in your vegetarian or vegan diet:
Eat more beans and legumes.
Introducing beans and legumes into your diet is easy with Indian recipes. Red kidney beans, mung beans, split peas, chickpeas, red lentils, brown lentils, and more are delicious in curries and stir-fries. They pair beautifully with spices and are hearty, too.
Combine legumes and grains.
Food professionals have recognized for a long time now that combining legumes (such as lentils) and grains (such as rice) yields a complete protein. It’s hardly surprising that in a vegetarian-inclined country like India, the staple meal is rice and dal.
Swap meat and poultry with textured vegetable protein.
Textured vegetable protein has been used in Indian vegetarian meals for decades. It’s meaty in texture and absorbs flavors of spices easily, transforming it from a rather tasteless ingredient to a delicious one.
Add nuts and seeds to your meals.
Many Indian curries have a blended spiced sauce that the main ingredient is cooked in. This base is often thickened with nuts such as cashews, peanuts, and almonds. They also boost the protein and good fat content of the recipe. Also, try sprinkling nuts and seeds over your rice and salads.
Include dairy in your meal (if you’re not vegan).
Most Indian meals are served with yogurt in some form — either plain or as a raita with vegetables in it. Paneer or Indian cottage cheese is another option, and you’ll get some good fats with your dairy, too!
Choose the right vegetables.
Avocados are known for their good fats and other wonderful nutrients. Mushrooms and broccoli have not only fiber but also protein.
Drizzle over some ghee or coconut oil.
Both
ghee
(clarified butter) and coconut oil have been used in Indian cooking for centuries. Drizzling a spoon of either over your rice or curry (instead of cooking your entire meal in it) means you can keep track of how much you’re eating while adding good fats to your diet.
Keep it varied.
Many years ago, being vegetarian often meant eating cheese and potatoes every day, but this is no longer the case. The huge variety of ingredients and recipes in Indian cooking means that having a different dinner every night of the year is very possible. Just look at the list of lentils in
Chapter 4
!
Make a simple meal plan for a few days at a time.
This plan will help you create a menu that is varied and brings in the nutrition you need, too. When you start to cook your meal for the day, instead of cobbling together something easy in a hurry, you’ll have control over what you eat. You’ll also be able to make the most of your ingredients so there’s less food waste. Over the week, a bag of carrots could be used up for a crunchy salad, a vegetable and lentil dal, and a spiced carrot stir-fry.
