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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Fachliteratur
- Sprache: Englisch
Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology
An accessible and practical review of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
In the newly revised second edition of Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology, veteran educator and researcher Dr. Gabriella Baki delivers a comprehensive discussion of cosmetics and personal care products, including coverage of basic concepts, ingredient selection, formulation technology, and testing. The book offers a clear and easy-to-understand review of cosmetics and over the counter (OTC) drug-cosmetic products available in the United States.
In this latest edition, the author expands on general concepts and adds brand-new chapters on the basics of cosmetics testing, ingredients, and skin lightening products. Each chapter includes a summary of common abbreviations with questions provided online, alongside a solutions manual for instructors.
Readers will also find:
- A thorough introduction to the basic definitions, claims, and classifications of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
- Comprehensive explorations of the current rules and regulations for cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products in the United States and European Union
- Detailed review of cosmetic ingredients, functions, and typical uses both in a dedicated a chapter and included within various others
- Practical coverage of good manufacturing practices for cosmetics, including documentation, buildings and facilities, equipment, and personnel
- Fulsome review of a variety of skin and hair care products, color cosmetics, and other personal care products
Perfect for undergraduate and graduate students studying cosmetic science in chemistry, chemical engineering, pharmaceutical, biomedical, and biology departments, Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology will also benefit cosmetic chemists, cosmetic product formulators, cosmetic scientists, quality control managers, cosmetic testing specialists, and technicians.
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Seitenzahl: 1542
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2022
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Table of Contents
COVER
TITLE PAGE
COPYRIGHT PAGE
AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY
PREFACE
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ABOUT THE COMPANION WEBSITE
PART 1: GENERAL CONCEPTS
1 BASIC DEFINITIONS. CLAIMS. CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS AND OTC DRUG–COSMETIC PRODUCTS
1.1 WHAT IS COSMETIC SCIENCE?
1.2 BASIC DEFINITIONS
1.3 HOW IS A PRODUCT’S INTENDED USE ESTABLISHED IN THE US?
1.4 CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS AND OTC DRUG–COSMETIC PRODUCTS
1.5 COSMETIC CLAIMS
1.6 A SPECIAL CATEGORY: SOAP
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
2 COSMETIC INGREDIENTS AND ACTIVE INGREDIENTS USED IN OTC DRUG–COSMETIC PRODUCTS
2.1 COSMETIC INGREDIENTS
2.2 ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
3 PRODUCT FORMS FOR COSMETICS AND OTC DRUG–COSMETIC PRODUCTS
3.1 INTRODUCTION
3.2 WHAT IS A PRODUCT FORM?
3.3 PRODUCT FORMS FOR COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
4 GOVERNMENT AND INDEPENDENT ORGANIZATIONS IN THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY
4.1 INTRODUCTION
4.2 FOOD AND DRUG ADMINISTRATION
4.3 PERSONAL CARE PRODUCT COUNCIL
4.4 COSMETIC INGREDIENT REVIEW EXPERT PANEL
4.5 FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION
4.6 NATIONAL ADVERTISING DIVISION
4.7 ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY
4.8 INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION (IFRA)
4.9 RESEARCH INSTITUTE FOR FRAGRANCE MATERIALS (RIFM)
4.10 FLAVOR AND EXTRACT MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION (FEMA)
4.11 EUROPEAN COMMISSION
4.12 SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE ON CONSUMER SAFETY
4.13 COSMETICS EUROPE – THE PERSONAL CARE ASSOCIATION
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
5 CURRENT RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR COSMETICS AND OTC DRUG–COSMETIC PRODUCTS IN THE UNITED STATES AND EUROPEAN UNION
5.1 INTRODUCTION
5.2 REGULATION IN THE US
5.3 REGULATION IN THE EU
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
6 COSMETIC GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES
6.1 COSMETIC GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
7 LABELING TUTORIAL FOR COSMETICS AND OTC DRUG–COSMETIC PRODUCTS MARKETED IN THE UNITED STATES. INCI NAMES
7.1 INTRODUCTION
7.2 COSMETIC PRODUCTS
7.3 OTC DRUG–COSMETIC PRODUCTS
7.4 INCI NAMING
7.5 DO YOU KNOW THE EXACT COMPOSITION OF A COSMETIC PRODUCT OR OTC DRUG–COSMETIC PRODUCT?
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
8 TESTING OF COSMETICS AND OTC DRUG–COSMETIC PRODUCTS
8.1 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT CYCLE
8.2 PRODUCT TESTING
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
PART 2: SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
9 SKIN ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY
9.1 INTRODUCTION
9.2 STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION OF HUMAN SKIN
9.3 MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF HUMAN SKIN
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
10 SKIN CLEANSING PRODUCTS
10.1 INTRODUCTION
10.2 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF SKIN CLEANSING PRODUCTS
10.3 HISTORY OF USING SKIN CLEANSING PRODUCTS
10.4 HOW SKIN CLEANSERS MAY AFFECT THE SKIN
10.5 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
10.6 BASIC CONCEPTS OF SKIN CLEANSING PRODUCTS
10.7 TYPICAL INGREDIENTS AND FORMULATION OF SKIN CLEANSING PRODUCTS
10.8 CONSIDERATIONS WHEN SELECTING SKIN CLEANSING PRODUCTS
10.9 TYPICAL QUALITY PROBLEMS OF SKIN CLEANSING PRODUCTS
10.10 EVALUATION OF SKIN CLEANSING PRODUCTS
10.11 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
10.12 PACKAGING OF SKIN CLEANSING PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
11 SKIN MOISTURIZING PRODUCTS
11.1 INTRODUCTION
11.2 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF SKIN MOISTURIZERS
11.3 HISTORY OF USING SKIN MOISTURIZERS
11.4 HOW SKIN MOISTURIZERS MAY AFFECT THE SKIN
11.5 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
11.6 TYPICAL INGREDIENTS AND FORMULATION OF SKIN MOISTURIZERS
11.7 PRODUCT TYPES
11.8 CONSIDERATIONS WHEN SELECTING SKIN MOISTURIZERS
11.9 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF SKIN MOISTURIZER FORMULATIONS
11.10 EVALUATION OF SKIN MOISTURIZING PRODUCTS
11.11 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
11.12 PACKING OF SKIN MOISTURIZERS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ACRONYMS
REFERENCES
12 PRODUCTS FOR AGING
12.1 INTRODUCTION
12.2 CHANGES IN SKIN STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION DURING AGING
12.3 DRUG OR COSMETIC?
12.4 TYPICAL INGREDIENTS USED IN TOPICAL ANTIAGING PRODUCTS
12.5 FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS OF TOPICAL ANTIAGING PRODUCTS
12.6 FORMULATION CHALLENGES OF COMMON ANTIAGING INGREDIENTS
12.7 SAFETY CONCERNS REGARDING THE USE OF TOPICAL NONINVASIVE ANTIAGING INGREDIENTS
12.8 PACKING OF ANTIAGING PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
13 PRODUCTS FOR ACNE
13.1 INTRODUCTION
13.2 ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF THE PILOSEBACEOUS UNIT
13.3 DEVELOPMENT OF ACNE
13.4 SYMPTOMS AND TYPES OF ACNE VULGARIS
13.5 TREATMENT OF ACNE VULGARIS
13.6 FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS
13.7 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
13.8 PACKAGING OF ANTI‐ACNE PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
14 SKIN LIGHTENING PRODUCTS
14.1 INTRODUCTION
14.2 SKIN COLOR AND PRODUCTION OF MELANIN
14.3 COMMON HYPERPIGMENTION LESIONS
14.4 HISTORY OF USING SKIN LIGHTENING PRODUCTS
14.5 DRUG OR COSMETIC?
14.6 HOW SKIN LIGHTENING PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT THE SKIN
14.7 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
14.8 TYPICAL INGREDIENTS USED IN SKIN LIGHTENING PRODUCTS
14.9 FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS AND CHALLENGES FOR TOPICAL SKIN LIGHTENING PRODUCTS
14.10 IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS WHEN USING SKIN LIGHTENING PRODUCTS
14.11 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF SKIN LIGHTENING FORMULATIONS
14.12 EVALUATION OF SKIN LIGHTENING PRODUCTS
14.13 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
14.14 PACKAGING OF SKIN LIGHTENING PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
15 SUN CARE PRODUCTS
15.1 INTRODUCTION
15.2 SUN PROTECTION BASICS
15.3 EFFECTS OF UV RADIATION ON THE HUMAN BODY
15.4 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF SUN CARE PRODUCTS
15.5 HISTORY OF USING SUN CARE PRODUCTS
15.6 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
15.7 SUNSCREENS
15.8 AFTER‐SUN PRODUCTS
15.9 TYPICAL QUALITY PROBLEMS OF SUN CARE PRODUCTS
15.10 EVALUATION OF SUN CARE PRODUCTS
15.11 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
15.12 PACKAGING OF SUN CARE PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
PART 3: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS
16 HAIR ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY
16.1 INTRODUCTION
16.2 STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION OF HUMAN HAIR
16.3 MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF HUMAN HAIR
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
17 HAIR CLEANSING AND CONDITIONING PRODUCTS
17.1 INTRODUCTION
17.2 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF HAIR CLEANSING AND CONDITIONING PRODUCTS
17.3 HISTORY OF USING HAIR CLEANSING AND CONDITIONING PRODUCTS
17.4 HOW HAIR CLEANING AND CONDITIONING PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT THE HAIR AND SCALP
17.5 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
17.6 HAIR CLEANSING PRODUCTS
17.7 HAIR CONDITIONERS
17.8 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF HAIR CLEANSING AND CONDITIONING PRODUCTS
17.9 EVALUATION OF HAIR CLEANSING AND CONDITIONING PRODUCTS
17.10 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
17.11 PACKAGING OF HAIR CLEANSING AND CONDITIONING PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
18 HAIR STYLING PRODUCTS, HAIR STRAIGHTENING PRODUCTS, AND HAIR WAVING PRODUCTS
18.1 INTRODUCTION
18.2 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF HAIR STYLING, HAIR STRAIGHTENING, AND HAIR WAVING PRODUCTS
18.3 HISTORY OF USING HAIR STYLING, HAIR WAVING, AND HAIR STRAIGHTENING PRODUCTS
18.4 HOW HAIR STYLING PRODUCTS AND PROCEDURES MAY AFFECT THE HAIR AND SCALP
18.5 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
18.6 HAIR STYLING PRODUCTS
18.7 HAIR STYLING PROCEDURES
18.8 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF HAIR STYLING, HAIR WAVING, AND HAIR STRAIGHTENING PRODUCTS
18.9 EVALUATION OF HAIR STYLING, HAIR WAVING, AND HAIR STRAIGHTENING PRODUCTS
18.10 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
18.11 PACKAGING OF HAIR STYLING, HAIR WAVING, AND HAIR STRAIGHTENING PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
19 HAIR COLORING PRODUCTS
19.1 INTRODUCTION
19.2 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF HAIR COLORING PRODUCTS
19.3 HISTORY OF USING HAIR COLORING PRODUCTS
19.4 HOW HAIR COLORING PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT THE SCALP AND HAIR
19.5 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
19.6 CURRENT US REGULATION OF HAIR DYES
19.7 TYPES, TYPICAL INGREDIENTS, AND FORMULATION OF HAIR COLORING PRODUCTS
19.8 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF HAIR COLORING PRODUCTS
19.9 EVALUATION OF HAIR COLORING PRODUCTS
19.10 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
19.11 PACKAGING OF HAIR COLORING PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
PART 4: COLOR COSMETICS
20 LIP MAKEUP PRODUCTS
20.1 INTRODUCTION
20.2 ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF HUMAN LIPS
20.3 HISTORY OF USING LIP MAKEUP PRODUCTS
20.4 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF LIP MAKEUP PRODUCTS
20.5 HOW LIP MAKEUP PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT THE LIPS
20.6 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
20.7 TYPICAL INGREDIENTS OF LIP MAKEUP PRODUCTS
20.8 COMMON TYPES OF LIP MAKEUP PRODUCTS
20.9 FORMULATION OF LIP MAKEUP PRODUCTS
20.10 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF LIP MAKEUP PRODUCTS
20.11 EVALUATION OF LIP MAKEUP PRODUCTS
20.12 INGREDIENT CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
20.13 PACKAGING OF LIP MAKEUP PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
21 EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
21.1 INTRODUCTION
21.2 ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF HUMAN EYELIDS AND EYELASHES
21.3 HISTORY OF USING EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
21.4 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
21.5 HOW EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT THE EYE AREA
21.6 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
21.7 TYPICAL INGREDIENTS AND FORMULATION OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
21.8 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
21.9 EVALUATION OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
21.10 SAFETY TESTING OF EYE COSMETICS
21.11 PACKAGING OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
22 FACIAL MAKEUP PRODUCTS
22.1 INTRODUCTION
22.2 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF FACIAL MAKEUP PRODUCTS
22.3 HISTORY OF USING FACIAL MAKEUP PRODUCTS
22.4 HOW FACIAL MAKEUP PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT THE SKIN
22.5 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
22.6 TYPICAL INGREDIENTS AND FORMULATION OF FACIAL MAKEUP PRODUCTS
22.7 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF FACIAL MAKEUP PRODUCTS
22.8 EVALUATION OF FACIAL MAKEUP PRODUCTS
22.9 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
22.10 PACKAGING OF FACIAL MAKEUP PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
23 NAIL CARE PRODUCTS
23.1 INTRODUCTION
23.2 ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF HUMAN NAILS
23.3 HISTORY OF USING NAIL CARE PRODUCTS
23.4 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF NAIL CARE PRODUCTS
23.5 HOW NAIL CARE PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT THE HUMAN NAILS
23.6 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
23.7 FUNCTIONAL NAIL CARE PRODUCTS
23.8 DECORATIVE NAIL CARE PRODUCTS
23.9 NAIL POLISH REMOVERS
23.10 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF NAIL CARE PRODUCTS
23.11 EVALUATION OF NAIL CARE PRODUCTS
23.12 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
23.13 PACKAGING OF NAIL CARE PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
PART 5: ADDITIONAL PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS
24 ORAL AND DENTAL CARE PRODUCTS
24.1 INTRODUCTION
24.2 ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF THE HUMAN ORAL CAVITY
24.3 REVIEW OF THE MOST COMMON ORAL AND DENTAL CARE PROBLEMS
24.4 HISTORY OF USING ORAL AND DENTAL CARE PRODUCTS
24.5 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF ORAL AND DENTAL CARE PRODUCTS
24.6 HOW ORAL AND DENTAL CARE PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT THE TEETH AND THE ORAL CAVITY
24.7 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
24.8 TYPICAL INGREDIENTS AND FORMULATION OF ORAL AND DENTAL CARE PRODUCTS
24.9 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF ORAL AND DENTAL CARE PRODUCTS
24.10 EVALUATION OF DENTAL AND ORAL CARE PRODUCTS
24.11 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
24.12 PACKAGING OF DENTAL AND ORAL CARE PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
25 HAIR REMOVAL PRODUCTS
25.1 INTRODUCTION
25.2 REVIEW OF THE STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION OF HUMAN HAIR
25.3 HISTORY OF USING HAIR REMOVAL METHODS
25.4 POSSIBLE METHODS FOR REMOVING HAIR
25.5 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF HAIR REMOVAL PRODUCTS
25.6 HOW HAIR REMOVAL PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT THE SKIN AND HAIR
25.7 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
25.8 TYPES, TYPICAL INGREDIENTS, AND FORMULATION OF HAIR REMOVAL PRODUCTS
25.9 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF HAIR REMOVAL PRODUCTS
25.10 EVALUATION OF HAIR REMOVAL PRODUCTS
25.11 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
25.12 PACKAGING OF HAIR REMOVAL PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
26 DEODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANTS
26.1 INTRODUCTION
26.2 ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF HUMAN SWEAT GLANDS
26.3 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF PRODUCTS REDUCING BODY ODOR
26.4 HISTORY OF USING DEODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANTS
26.5 HOW DEODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANTS MAY AFFECT THE HUMAN SKIN AND BODY
26.6 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
26.7 THE MECHANISM OF ACTION OF DEODORANT AND ANTIPERSPIRANT INGREDIENTS
26.8 MOST COMMON PRODUCT FORMS OF DEODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANTS
26.9 FORMULATION OF DEODORANT AND ANTIPERSPIRANT PRODUCTS
26.10 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF DEODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANTS
26.11 EVALUATION OF DEODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANTS
26.12 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
26.13 PACKAGING OF DEODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
27 BABY CARE PRODUCTS
27.1 INTRODUCTION
27.2 ANATOMICAL AND PHYSIOLOGICAL DIFFERENCES BETWEEN BABY AND ADULT SKIN AND HAIR
27.3 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF BABY CARE PRODUCTS
27.4 HISTORY OF USING BABY CARE PRODUCTS
27.5 HOW BABY CARE PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT BABY SKIN, HAIR, AND EYES
27.6 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
27.7 TYPES, TYPICAL INGREDIENTS, AND FORMULATION OF BABY CARE PRODUCTS
27.8 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF BABY CARE PRODUCTS
27.9 EVALUATION OF BABY CARE PRODUCTS
27.10 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
27.11 PACKAGING OF BABY CARE PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
28 FEMININE HYGIENE PRODUCTS
28.1 INTRODUCTION
28.2 ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF THE FEMALE GENITAL AREA
28.3 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF FEMININE HYGIENE PRODUCTS
28.4 HISTORY OF USING FEMININE HYGIENE PRODUCTS
28.5 HOW FEMININE HYGIENE PRODUCTS MAY AFFECT THE HUMAN BODY AND FEMALE GENITAL AREA
28.6 REQUIRED QUALITIES AND CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
28.7 TYPES, TYPICAL INGREDIENTS, AND FORMULATION OF FEMININE HYGIENE PRODUCTS
28.8 TYPICAL QUALITY ISSUES OF FEMININE HYGIENE PRODUCTS
28.9 EVALUATION OF FEMININE HYGIENE PRODUCTS
28.10 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
28.11 PACKAGING OF FEMININE HYGIENE PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
29 SUNLESS TANNING PRODUCTS
29.1 INTRODUCTION
29.2 TYPES AND DEFINITION OF SUNLESS TANNING PRODUCTS
29.3 HISTORY OF USING SUNLESS TANNING PRODUCTS
29.4 HOW SUNLESS TANNERS MAY AFFECT THE HUMAN BODY
29.5 REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS AND CONSUMER NEEDS
29.6 TYPES AND TYPICAL INGREDIENTS OF SUNLESS TANNING PRODUCTS
29.7 FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS
29.8 TYPICAL QUALITY PROBLEMS OF SUNLESS TANNERS
29.9 EVALUATION OF SUNLESS TANNERS
29.10 INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS
29.11 PACKAGING OF SUNLESS TANNING PRODUCTS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABBREVIATIONS
REFERENCES
INDEX
END USER LICENSE AGREEMENT
List of Tables
Chapter 5
TABLE 5.1 Summary of the Rules and Regulations for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–C...
Chapter 9
TABLE 9.1 FDA’s classification of skin types
Chapter 16
TABLE 16.1 Bonds within and between polypeptide chains in hair fibers
Chapter 19
TABLE 19.1 Characteristics of the Various Types of Hair Dyes
Chapter 26
TABLE 26.1 Comparison of Eccrine and Apocrine Sweat Glands
List of Illustrations
Chapter 1
Figure 1.1 Subject areas contributing to cosmetic science.
Figure 1.2 An antidandruff shampoo can be considered an OTC drug–cosmetic pr...
Figure 1.3 Categories for classification of cosmetics and OTC drug–cosmetic ...
Figure 1.4 Major color cosmetic and personal care product categories in the ...
Figure 1.5 The two legal categories of personal care products in the United ...
Chapter 2
Figure 2.1 Working principle of antioxidants against free radicals.
Figure 2.2 Pearlescent pigments are based on a transparent substrate, which ...
Figure 2.3 Metallic pigments are made of an opaque substrate, which only all...
Figure 2.4 Fragrance structure.
Figure 2.5 The basic structure of a surfactant molecule.
Figure 2.6 Micelle formation in water. (a) The surfactant is added to the wa...
Figure 2.7 The old three‐phase OTC monograph process.
Chapter 3
Figure 3.1 Main product forms for cosmetic and OTC drug–cosmetic products.
Figure 3.2 An oil‐in‐water (O/W) emulsion consisting of an oil phase, a wate...
Figure 3.3 Sedimentation of insoluble solid particles in a suspension over t...
Figure 3.4 Dispersion process: wetting, separation, and stabilization.
Chapter 5
Figure 5.1 Expiration date of cosmetic products in the European Union. (a) E...
Chapter 7
Figure 7.1 Outer container (in this figure a folding carton) and immediate c...
Figure 7.2 Principal display panel and information panels.
Figure 7.3 Information required to be indicated on the principal display pan...
Figure 7.4 Information required to be indicated on the information panels of...
Figure 7.5 Information required to be indicated on the principal display pan...
Figure 7.6 Information required to be indicated on the information panels of...
Figure 7.7 Child‐resistant cap of baby oil.
Figure 7.8 Tamper‐resistant plastic shrink band on a mouthwash bottle.
Chapter 8
Figure 8.1 Steps of the cosmetic product development cycle.
Figure 8.2 Types of cosmetic product tests discussed in this chapter.
Figure 8.3 The relationship of QMS, QA, and QC.
Chapter 9
Figure 9.1 Basic structure and components of the human skin.
Figure 9.2 Main layers of the epidermis.
Figure 9.3 Structure of healthy stratum corneum.
Figure 9.4 Structure of damaged stratum corneum.
Figure 9.5 Collagen and elastin fibers in (a) healthy skin vs. (b) photodama...
Chapter 10
Figure 10.1 Classification of skin cleansers.
Figure 10.2 Removal of oily dirt from the skin surface by surfactants.
Figure 10.3 Salt curve.
Figure 10.4 Reversible and irreversible types of physical instability of emu...
Figure 10.5 Spreadability testing of lotions, creams, and gels using a sprea...
Figure 10.6 Extrudability testing of lotions, creams, and gels using an extr...
Figure 10.7 Evaluating the texture of lotions, creams, and gels with the for...
Figure 10.8 Evaluating the texture of lotions, creams, and gels with the bac...
Figure 10.9 Firmness testing of lotions and creams using a hemispherical pro...
Figure 10.10 Actuation force testing of a pump‐head container using a hemisp...
Figure 10.11 Hardness testing of a bath bomb.
Figure 10.12 Emulsion droplets under a light microscope.
Figure 10.13 Maltese cross pattern of a liquid crystal emulsion under a pola...
Figure 10.14 Various types of spindles and measuring geometries used for vis...
Figure 10.15 A hydrometer.
Figure 10.16 A pycnometer.
Figure 10.17 A specific gravity cup.
Figure 10.18 pH scale indicating the acidity/alkalinity of some common produ...
Figure 10.19 Combination electrode used in today’s pH meters.
Chapter 11
Figure 11.1 Working principle of humectants.
Figure 11.2 Working principle of emollients.
Figure 11.3 Working principle of occlusives.
Figure 11.4 A summary of various performance testing methods of skin moistur...
Chapter 12
Figure 12.1 (a) Liposome and (b) micelle.
Chapter 13
Figure 13.1 Pilosebaceous unit.
Figure 13.2 Major factors contributing to the development of acne vulgaris....
Figure 13.3 Noninflammatory acne lesions. (a) Normal, intact hair follicle, ...
Figure 13.4 Inflammatory acne lesions. (a) Papule, (b) pustule, and (c) nodu...
Figure 13.5 Acne treatment approaches discussed in this textbook.
Chapter 14
Figure 14.1 Melanogenesis.
Figure 14.2 Pigmentation of dark versus light skin.
Figure 14.3 CIE L*a*b* color space.
Chapter 15
Figure 15.1 Electromagnetic spectrum. The shaded areas indicate rays that do...
Figure 15.2 Penetration depth of ultraviolet A and B light.
Figure 15.3 SPF versus sun protection.
Figure 15.4 Working principle of the two main types of UV filters: (a) physi...
Figure 15.5 Sunscreen product distribution on the skin (a) ideally and (b) r...
Figure 15.6 Various spray patterns of aerosol sprays. (a) Normal spray patte...
Figure 15.7 Actuation force testing of an aerosol can.
Figure 15.8 Hardness testing of a stick.
Figure 15.9 Break strength testing of a stick.
Figure 15.10 Melting process of waxes. (a) The sample is completely solid. (...
Figure 15.11 Softening point testing of a stick.
Figure 15.12 Dropping point testing of a stick.
Figure 15.13 Pay‐off and glide testing of a sunscreen stick.
Figure 15.14 Critical wavelength of sunscreens.
Chapter 16
Figure 16.1 Structure of human hair.
Figure 16.2 Cross‐section of human hair.
Figure 16.3 Microstructure of human hair cortex.
Figure 16.4 Hair growth cycle.
Figure 16.5 Side bonds in hair fibers.
Figure 16.6 (a) Healthy hair versus (b) porous hair.
Chapter 17
Figure 17.1 Major factors contributing to the development of dandruff.
Figure 17.2 Combability testing of hair conditioners.
Chapter 18
Figure 18.1 Permanent waving process.
Figure 18.2 Lanthionization process.
Figure 18.3 Three‐point bending test.
Figure 18.4 Dynamic hairspray analysis.
Figure 18.5 Curl retention test.
Chapter 19
Figure 19.1 Coloring mechanism of temporary hair dyes.
Figure 19.2 Coloring mechanism of semipermanent hair dyes.
Figure 19.3 Coloring mechanism of oxidative hair dyes.
Chapter 20
Figure 20.1 Structure of the human lips.
Figure 20.2 Cross section of the lips.
Figure 20.3 Vertical split mold commonly used for lipstick formulation.
Figure 20.4 Flaming of a lipstick.
Figure 20.5 Extruder commonly used for the formulation of lip liner pencils....
Figure 20.6 Common quality problems of lipsticks: (a) aeration, (b) ladderin...
Figure 20.7 Rigidity testing of a lip liner pencil.
Chapter 21
Figure 21.1 Main features of the human eye.
Figure 21.2 Evaluating cake strength of a pressed eyeshadow via the penetrat...
Figure 21.3 Flowability testing of loose powders. (a) Flow time measurement ...
Figure 21.4 Measuring (a) bulk and (b) tapped density of loose powders.
Chapter 23
Figure 23.1 Structure of the nail unit.
Figure 23.2 Cross‐section of the nail.
Figure 23.3 A viscosity curve characteristic of thixotropic materials.
Figure 23.4 Abrasion resistance testing of nail polish films.
Figure 23.5 Tape testing of nail polish films.
Figure 23.6 Pull‐off testing of nail polish films.
Chapter 24
Figure 24.1 Structure of the human teeth.
Figure 24.2 The process of demineralization.
Figure 24.3 The process of remineralization.
Figure 24.4 Development of tooth decay.
Figure 24.5 The process of remineralization with fluoride.
Figure 24.6 Viscosity curve characteristic of Bingham plastic materials and ...
Figure 24.7 Toothbrush with a pea‐sized drop of toothpaste.
Chapter 25
Figure 25.1 Summary of currently available hair removal methods.
Figure 25.2 Shaving, an example of depilatory methods.
Figure 25.3 Tweezing, an example of epilatory methods.
Figure 25.4 Aerosol can for shaving creams.
Figure 25.5 (a) Aerosol cream droplet and (b) foam formed after pressing the...
Figure 25.6 Film stabilized by surfactants.
Figure 25.7 Aerosol can for shaving gels.
Figure 25.8 Aerosol can with a piston‐type dispenser.
Figure 25.9 Working principle of chemical depilatories. Bond breaking agents...
Chapter 26
Figure 26.1 Eccrine and apocrine sweat glands.
Figure 26.2 Body odor formation.
Figure 26.3 Working principle of antiperspirants.
Figure 26.4 Hardness testing of a deodorant/antiperspirant stick.
Chapter 27
Figure 27.1 Micelles in an (a) adult cleanser and (b, c) baby cleanser.
Figure 27.2 Major factors contributing to the development of diaper rash.
Chapter 28
Figure 28.1 Protective effect of lactic acid and
Lactobacillus
bacteria in t...
Figure 28.2 Concept of osmolality. (a) The solution on the left is hypoosmol...
Guide
COVER PAGE
TITLE PAGE
COPYRIGHT PAGE
AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY
PREFACE
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ABOUT THE COMPANION WEBSITE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
BEGIN READING
INDEX
WILEY END USER LICENSE AGREEMENT
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INTRODUCTION TO COSMETIC FORMULATION AND TECHNOLOGY
Second Edition
GABRIELLA BAKI, Ph.D.
The University of Toledo, College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Toledo, OH, USA
This second edition first published 2023© 2023 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Edition HistoryJohn Wiley & Sons (1e, 2015)
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Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of WarrantyIn view of ongoing research, equipment modifications, changes in governmental regulations, and the constant flow of information relating to the use of experimental reagents, equipment, and devices, the reader is urged to review and evaluate the information provided in the package insert or instructions for each chemical, piece of equipment, reagent, or device for, among other things, any changes in the instructions or indication of usage and for added warnings and precautions. While the publisher and authors have used their best efforts in preparing this work, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives, written sales materials or promotional statements for this work. The fact that an organization, website, or product is referred to in this work as a citation and/or potential source of further information does not mean that the publisher and authors endorse the information or services the organization, website, or product may provide or recommendations it may make. This work is sold with the understanding that the publisher is not engaged in rendering professional services. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a specialist where appropriate. Further, readers should be aware that websites listed in this work may have changed or disappeared between when this work was written and when it is read. Neither the publisher nor authors shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.
Library of Congress Cataloging‐in‐Publication Data Applied for:Hardback ISBN: 9781119709770
Cover Design: WileyCover Image: Courtesy of Gabriella Baki
AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY
Gabriella Baki is an associate professor and the program director of a unique undergraduate program, the Bachelor of Science in Pharmaceutical Sciences Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design major at the University of Toledo College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences. She is the main instructor of various lectures and laboratories and mentors students on elective courses, minors, and career opportunities. Additionally, she serves as a research advisor for students in her cosmetic science research group.
Dr. Baki is a pharmacist, graduated in 2008 from the University of Szeged, Hungary, and she also has a PhD in Pharmaceutics from the same university. She has been a faculty member at the University of Toledo since January 2012. Dr. Baki’s main research focus lies in topical delivery for active ingredients and cosmetic actives, sensory testing of creams and lotions, as well as sun protection factor and broad‐spectrum boosting technologies. Dr. Baki has made over a dozen technical presentations, written over 40 publications, and contributed to a few book chapters. She was an author of the first edition of Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology, published by John Wiley and Sons in 2015.
PREFACE
Cosmetics and personal care products have played an essential role in our lives for thousands of years. With advancements in ingredient technology and formulation methods in the past few decades, cosmetics and personal care products have been continuously improving. Additionally, an increasing number of products are aimed at special target audiences that have not received as much attention in the past. Innovation, creative thinking, and problem‐solving are essential skills needed in the cosmetic industry. However, the most important skill is a strong foundation and understanding of the main principles. Cosmetic science is a delicate blend of knowledge from a variety of fields, including chemistry, biology, formulation science, pharmacology, marketing, art, and law. Until now, these knowledge bases have only been presented in separate books written for specific professional audiences. Non‐professionals were often left with no options to find a single, comprehensive source containing all the information they needed.
This textbook seeks to bridge the gap between basic science books and the highly advanced published literature and is intended to serve as a comprehensive reference for the field of cosmetic science. It covers all major aspects of cosmetic formulation and technology at both fundamental and practical levels. In this regard, the book aims to broaden the readers’ knowledge and introduce them to the intriguing world of cosmetics and personal care products. This book is designed to provide a basic understanding of cosmetics and personal care products, including their regulation, main characteristics, ingredients, formulation, testing, and packaging – primarily focused on products available in the United States.
This book is divided into five main parts. The first part is concerned with general concepts, basic definitions, ingredient types, product forms, general testing methods and includes an overview of the current legislation covering cosmetics and drugs in the United States. Parts 2–5 discuss the various types of color cosmetics and personal care products. The most beneficial way to discuss products used in our everyday lives is by application surface and function. The book is organized in just such a manner. Part 2 focuses on skin care products, including skin cleansers, moisturizers, anti‐aging products, anti‐acne products, skin lightening products, and sunscreens. Part 3 reviews hair care products, including shampoos, conditioners, hair styling products, and hair coloring products. Part 4 focuses on makeup products for the lips, eyes, face, and nails. Part 5 provides an overview of additional personal care products, including dental and oral care products, hair removal products, deodorants and antiperspirants, baby care products, feminine hygiene products, and sunless tanners.
Each chapter of Parts 2–5 follows the same structure and includes an overview of the structure and function of the relevant application surface, basic principles relevant to the chapter, types and definition of various products related to the chapter, history of product use, how the products may affect the application surfaces, required characteristics of products and consumer needs, an overview of the main ingredients, characteristics and formulation of the products, typical quality problems related to the formulation and/or use of products, product testing, safety concerns, and finally packaging.
Each of the 29 chapters in this textbook has a unique structure to enhance the readers’ experience and facilitate learning. At the beginning of each chapter, a list of learning objectives tells readers what important information they will be expected to know after reading and studying the chapter. The terms they will need to know in each chapter are also provided at the beginning of the chapter. Throughout the text, “Did you know?” paragraphs draw attention to interesting information that will enhance understanding of the material in the text. FYI (For Your Information) boxes direct readers to a website or other resource for further information. All key terms and their definitions are included in a glossary of terms at the end of each section, along with a list of abbreviations included in each chapter. Each chapter has a set of questions, available online, designed to test the readers’ understanding of the chapter’s information. Questions include multiple choice questions, multiple answer questions, completion, matching, illustration labeling, fact or fiction, short answer, and essay questions – organized into a three‐level learning system. Level 1 questions (Reviewing Facts and Terms) are related to the learning objectives in each chapter and offer a review of facts and key terms. These questions will help the reader master the vocabulary and recall information. Level 2 questions (Reviewing Concepts) involve an understanding of concepts and require the reader to connect facts and terms learned in Level 1. Level 3 questions (Critical Thinking and Practical Applications) challenge the reader to think critically and solve practical problems using the knowledge gained in Levels 1 and 2. The answer key to the self‐assessment questions is also provided online.
The wide variety of topics found in the book should benefit a large audience interested in cosmetic science, including undergraduate students, graduate students, researchers, students in beauty schools, and those concerned with regulation, sales, and marketing of cosmetics and personal care products. The up‐to‐date and comprehensive content of this book may be of interest to the non‐specialist reader as well. Finally, it is my hope that this book would serve as a standard textbook for cosmetic science education.
Gabriella Baki, Ph.D.
The University of Toledo, College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences,Toledo, OH, USA
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I would like to express my gratitude to my husband, Gabe Balazs from Gabe Balazs Media, LLC., for providing his expertise in preparing the graphic artwork. I would also like to thank the University of Toledo and my colleagues for their continued support. I am also grateful to our publisher, John Wiley and Sons, Inc., for all the guidance and assistance provided for this book. Finally, I wish to thank my family for their encouragement, unstinted support, and patience during the preparation of this book.
ABOUT THE COMPANION WEBSITE
This book is accompanied by a companion website.
www.wiley.com/go/baki/cosmeticformulation2
The website includes:
Crossword puzzles
Self‐assesment test bank
PPT slides for lecturers
PART 1GENERAL CONCEPTS
INTRODUCTION
Cosmetic science is a complex scientific area that encompasses a wide range of subjects, including basic and applied disciplines one would generally associate with personal care products, such as chemistry and formulation science, but also subject areas outside the realm of sciences, such as business and art. Part 1 of this textbook is designed to introduce the terminology that is used in Parts 2–5 of the book and familiarize the reader with the basic principles that later parts of the book build onto.
Part 1 starts with discussing basic definitions, the legal difference between drugs and cosmetics, and popular cosmetic claims. There are stand‐alone chapters dedicated for ingredients used in cosmetics, product forms, government and independent organizations the reader should be familiar with, FDA regulations, and testing basics regarding cosmetic products. It is recommended to start with Part 1 before diving into Chapters 9–29.
1BASIC DEFINITIONS. CLAIMS. CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS AND OTC DRUG–COSMETIC PRODUCTS
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
Upon completion of this chapter, the reader will be able to
define the following terms:
Application surface
Claim
Cosmeceutical
Cosmetic science
Cosmetics
Cruelty‐free
Dietary supplement
Drugs
FD&C Act
FDA
Halal
Hypoallergenic
Ingredient claim
Intended use
Natural
Organic
Performance claim
Personal care product
Safety claim
Soap
Sustainable
Target group
Toiletries
Vegan
discuss why cosmetic science is a science.
discuss what knowledge and background education are necessary if one wants to work in the cosmetic industry.
differentiate between a cosmetic and a drug in the United States (US).
explain what the main factor is that legally differentiates cosmetics and drugs in the US.
explain how certain products can be both drugs and cosmetics in the US.
explain how a cosmetic product’s intended use is established in the US.
list ways of how cosmetics and OTC drug–cosmetic products can be classified.
list some examples for each of the following: target groups of cosmetic products, application surfaces of cosmetics, and functions of cosmetic products.
distinguish between ingredient claims, safety claims, and product performance claims.
explain the truth‐in‐advertising rules in the US.
discuss if dietary supplements are cosmetics or not in the US.
explain what the following terms mean and how their use is regulated in the US: organic, natural, vegan, clean, halal, sustainable, hypoallergenic, cruelty‐free, preservative‐free, dermatologist recommended, clinically proven, patented formula, and pH balanced.
explain how soaps are regulated in the US.
KEY CONCEPTS
Cosmetic science is a real science, and it is a multidisciplinary field since it includes basic knowledge and a wide range of information from a number of different fields. Additionally, some nonscience areas are also an integral part of cosmetic science.
Cosmetics are (i) articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and (ii) articles intended for use as a component of any such articles; except that such term shall not include soap.
Drugs are (i) articles recognized in the official United States Pharmacopeia, official Homeopathic Pharmacopeia of the United States, or official National Formulary, or any supplement to any of them; and (ii) articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease in man or other animals; and (iii) articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals; and (iv) articles intended for use as a component of any articles specified in (i), (ii), or (iii).
The legal difference between a cosmetic and a drug in the US is determined by a product’s intended use, i.e. what the product is used for.
In the US, certain products can be cosmetics and drugs at the same time since they meet the definitions of both cosmetics and drugs.
A cosmetic product’s intended use can be established in a number of ways, including claims, consumer perception of the product, and the history of an ingredient.
Cosmetics and OTC drug–cosmetic products can be classified based on the target group, product form, legal status, application surface, function, and many other ways.
Many claims commonly used today on cosmetic products are not defined by the FDA and have only limited scientific evidence behind them. However, the use of these words is not prohibited, which is why they are used.
True soaps are regulated by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and not the FDA.
1.1 WHAT IS COSMETIC SCIENCE?
Generally speaking, science is the organized body of knowledge that is derived from a systematic observation of natural events and conditions, and that can be verified or tested by further investigations [1]. Examples of sciences include chemistry, biology, and physics. Is cosmetic science considered a real science? When trying to answer this question, we tend to think of information we saw, heard, or read in the news or on TV. In addition, public opinion and religion may also influence the perception of what constitutes a real science. Today, there are a number of doubtful consumers and even professionals who are wondering what cosmetic science is all about. Depending on the source of information, cosmetic science has been identified as follows:
Commercial science
that tries to find reasons for selling a product.
Comparative science
based on the fact that many manufacturers compare their own products to other manufacturers’ products and try to convince consumers why to buy their products instead of other companies’ products.
Traditional science
, such as chemistry or physics, where there are hypotheses and scientists try to justify or deny them by performing a number of tests and reactions.
Borderline science
as it is a transition among many different scientific fields, including pharmacy, chemistry, dermatology, and marketing, among others.
Some consumers believe that it is really
not a science
[2]
.
Let us review which subject areas contribute to cosmetic science.
Biology
: Biology is the science of life and living organisms. Cosmetics are applied to biological surfaces; therefore, it is important to understand the structure, i.e. anatomy and function, i.e. physiology of these surfaces, including the skin, hair, teeth, and nails. Additionally, cosmetics have the potential to become contaminated and grow microorganisms, which is to be avoided. It is important to study microbiology – the science of microorganisms – to understand why some microorganisms are dangerous in products and learn how to test preservative efficacy. It should be noted that some microorganisms are beneficial, for example, probiotics, and are used in cosmetic products. Microbiology covers all aspects of microorganisms. Pharmacology is the science of drugs and their effect on living systems. Understanding the potential effect(s) of active ingredients and cosmetic ingredients on the target surface is important when selecting ingredients and designing formulations. Toxicology is a field of science that studies the safety and biological effects of drugs, chemicals, and other substances on living organisms. Cosmetic products have to be safe for consumers, and therefore assessing the safety of ingredients and products is a vital part of product development and testing.
Chemistry
: Chemistry is the science of substances. Chemistry deals with the composition and properties of substances, changes substances undergo, and the natural laws that describe these changes. Cosmetics are made up of chemicals; therefore, it is necessary to study various types of chemistry to be able to select ingredients that are compatible with each other and will fulfill the goals of a product, and to be able to formulate effective, stable, high quality, and safe products that have appealing aesthetics, appropriate performance, and compatibility with the application surface. Types of chemistry important for cosmetics include organic chemistry, inorganic chemistry, colloid chemistry, polymer chemistry, biochemistry, and analytical chemistry.
Physics
: Physics is the science of matter. Physics studies motion, forces, energy, heat, sound, and light. There are a number of physical principles that are important to understand when formulating and testing cosmetic products. For example, principles of light reflection are important for makeup products, or physics of energy absorption and reflection are the basis of how sunscreens work.
Mathematics
: Mathematics is the science of numbers and their relationships. Mathematics and statistics, i.e. a form of math that deals with the collection, analysis, and interpretation of data, are essential when formulating cosmetic products to figure out the correct amount of ingredients to make a certain sized batch; and during clinical studies to evaluate if the new product is better than the benchmark, for example.
Formulation science
: Formulation science deals with the knowledge and hands‐on skills of mixing various chemicals to create finished products. Formulators need to understand the different types of product forms they can create as final products. Additionally, they have to learn the various formulation techniques and use instruments to create the final products.
Regulatory science:
Regulatory science is a scientific and technical field that deals with developing new tools and standards to assess the safety, quality, and efficacy of products and ensure compliance with the current regulatory requirements. Formulators focus on science, but they have to stay within a legal framework. It goes without saying that basic knowledge and understanding of the current guidelines, rules, and regulations relevant for cosmetics and OTC drug–cosmetic products are essential. As part of the regulations, one needs to be aware of and comply with the labeling and packaging rules of finished cosmetic products, for example. Regulatory personnel interact with the regulatory body and ensure that companies comply with regulations.
Measurement science:
Measurement science deals with measuring the chemical composition, structure, physicochemical characteristics, and performance of ingredients and products. Measurement science overlaps with biology, chemistry, physics, engineering, and mathematics. Cosmetics undergo intensive testing during the product development process, during and after manufacturing. Product performance, for example, can be evaluated in clinical studies, sensory studies, and via instrumental measurements. Education in different types of measurement sciences is important to understand the different types of tests and testing methods that are performed on cosmetics and OTC drug–cosmetic products to evaluate their performance, quality, safety, and stability.
Marketing and sales
: Cosmetic companies are businesses, and understanding how businesses work is important for anyone who wants to work in the cosmetic industry. Marketing is the process of making potential customers interested in the product being sold. Sales is the business process of selling products to consumers. Understanding what consumers expect from products and what their needs are (i.e. market research) is crucial to be able to target those needs and satisfy consumers. Therefore, studying various types of business courses can be very helpful.
Art
: Cosmetic products have to look appealing so consumers would purchase them and use them. Formulators have to harmonize the color with the fragrance and/or taste of the product, which requires some artistic skills. Package designers have to design packaging for products that works well with the product and also looks appealing to consumers. This also requires artistic design skills.
Based on all the above, we can conclude that cosmetic science is a real science, and it is a multidisciplinary field since it includes basic knowledge and a wide range of information from a number of different scientific fields. Additionally, some nonscience areas are also an integral part of cosmetic science. Cosmetic science is involved with developing and formulating cosmetics and personal care products. See a summary of this information in Figure 1.1.
Figure 1.1 Subject areas contributing to cosmetic science.
1.2 BASIC DEFINITIONS
Is It a Drug or a Cosmetic? Today, we can find cosmetics and personal care products almost everywhere, in‐store and online, including grocery stores, pharmacies, beauty salons, and even gas stations. But, what are cosmetics? Is there a definition for them? When people are asked the question “What do you think cosmetics are?,” the answer is often “The hundreds of makeup products my wife puts on her face,” “The products that an aesthetician uses,” “I guess my shaving cream,” “My sunscreen maybe,” or “My antiwrinkle cream.” These answers do not completely cover the spectrum of cosmetics available, and some of them are not even true. You as a health science professional have to be aware of the basic definitions and able to apply them and act in accordance with them.
1.2.1 United States
In the US, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has authority over cosmetic products and drugs. Within the FDA, the Office of Cosmetics and Colors, which is within the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (CFSAN), regulates cosmetics (see more information on the role of the FDA in Chapter 4) [3]. Drugs are regulated by a different office, namely the Office of Nonprescription Drugs, within the Center for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER) (see more information in Chapter 4). The legal responsibilities and requirements are laid down in the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic (FD&C) Act, which was introduced in 1938 as a revision of the Pure Food and Drugs Act of 1906. The FD&C Act defines two main categories of products, namely cosmetics and drugs.
Cosmetics:
The FD&C Act defines
cosmetics
by their intended use as follows:
[4]
“
(i) articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and (ii) articles intended for use as a component of any such articles; except that such term shall not include soap.” Among the products included in this definition are skin moisturizers, lipsticks, nail polishes, eye and facial makeup products, shampoos, permanent waves, hair coloring products, and deodorants.
Drugs:
According to the FD&C Act,
drugs
are
[5]
: “(i) articles recognized in the official United States Pharmacopeia, official Homeopathic Pharmacopeia of the United States, or official National Formulary, or any supplement to any of them; and (ii) articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease in man or other animals; and (iii) articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals; and (iv) articles intended for use as a component of any articles specified in (i), (ii), or (iii).”
As regulated by the FDA, there are two categories of drugs: OTC drugs and prescription‐only drugs. OTC drugs can be purchased without a prescription, as their name states. These products are considered safe and effective for use by the general public without a prescriber’s authorization. Examples include products we can buy for headache, sore throat, and allergies. On the other hand, prescription medications require a prescription written by a licensed health care professional before they can be purchased by patients. These drugs are not meant to be used for self‐treatment for several reasons; this is why they cannot be used without a health care professional’s supervision. Examples include antibiotics, contraceptives, and drugs taken for high blood pressure.
The two definitions, i.e. that of cosmetics and drugs provided by the FD&C Act, legally determine whether a formulation is a drug or a cosmetic. It is important to note that the legal difference between a cosmetic and a drug in the US is determined by a product’s intended use[6], i.e. what the product is used for, and not the ingredients in the product. Therefore, if the intended use relates to the prevention and treatment of a disease, the substance is a drug; if its intended use is described in claims and advertisements as promoting attractiveness, the product is a cosmetic.
You may wonder why you have to know the definition of both cosmetics and drugs if you want to work in the cosmetic industry. At this point, you have to understand that in the US, certain products can be cosmetics and drugs at the same time if they meet the definitions of both cosmetics and drugs. These products will be referred to as “OTC drug–cosmetic products” in this textbook. As described previously, the main factor that legally differentiates a drug from a cosmetic in the US is the intended use of the product. A double function may happen when a product has two intended uses. For example, a shampoo is a cosmetic because its intended use is to clean the hair. An antidandruff ingredient is considered a drug because it is intended to prevent and/or treat dandruff. Consequently, an antidandruff shampoo is both a cosmetic and a drug (see Figure 1.2).
Additional examples for products that have both drug and cosmetic functions include the following:
Toothpaste
