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Put your knitting skills into action with these fun and easy-to-follow patterns Knitting is fun, functional, and stress-relieving--get started today with Knitting Patterns For Dummies! Written for all skill levels and perfect for beginners, it includes patterns for socks, scarves, sweaters, and beyond. Add to your knitting repertoire and experiment with different textures, fun colors, and pattern shapes. You'll love the full-color project photos in the color insert and helpful, easy-to-understand instructions for every single project. Even if you've never followed a written pattern before, you can knit cool stuff with the practical, modern patterns inside. This friendly guide will help you pick the right needles and yarn, step you through reading and knitting the patterns, and then finishing off your masterpieces. * Select the supplies that are right for your projects * Learn how to read a knitting pattern * Practice working common stitches and creating different textures * Make gifts for friends, clothing for yourself, and cold weather wear Need more practice? Want fun new ideas? Just getting started? All knitters welcome!
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Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2023
Knitting Patterns For Dummies®
Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2022950745
ISBN: 978-1-394-16207-9 (pbk); ISBN: 978-1-394-16208-6 (ebk); ISBN: 978-1-394-16209-3 (ebk)
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Introduction
About This Book
Conventions Used in This Book
Foolish Assumptions
How This Book Is Organized
Icons Used in This Book
Beyond the Book
Where to Go from Here
Part 1: The Nuts and Bolts (or Sticks and String) of Knitting
Chapter 1: The Right Stuff: Knitting Supplies
Unraveling the Basics of Yarn
Getting to the Point of Needles
Filling Your Knitting Bag with Other Gadgets
Chapter 2: Gauge Your Success
Calculating Gauge for Any Project
How Tense Are You? Tips for Knitting to the Right Gauge
Swatching Before You Begin a New Project
Checking Your Gauge throughout a Project
Examining the Drapes of Different Gauges
Chapter 3: Do You Measure Up? Size Matters
Deciphering a Pattern’s Size Information
Measuring Yourself
Knowing What Size You Should Knit
Chapter 4: Break the Code: Reading Patterns
Deciphering Knitroglyphics
Following a repeating pattern
Try Before You Buy! Spot-Checking Patterns
Part 2: A Primer on Stitches and Color
Chapter 5: The Simplest Stitches
Starting with Garter Stitch
Knitting and Purling Stockinette Stitch
Mixing It Up with Reverse Stockinette Stitch
Staying Simple with Seed Stitch
Creating Box Stitch
Working Half Linen Stitch
Chapter 6: Stitches that Look Tricky but Aren’t
Lining Up with Ribs
Twisting Away with Cables
Seeing Through Your Knitting with Lace
Chapter 7: Colorful Stitches
Combining Colors with a Careful Eye
Get in Line: Stripes
Classic Color: Fair Isle Patterns
Small Fair Isle motif
Slip in Some Color: Mosaics
Color for Cheaters: Adding Details after You Finish Knitting
Part 3: Patterns with Rectangles and Related Shapes
Chapter 8: Rectangles to Wear
Garter Stitch Scarf
Box Stitch Scarf
Flat Hat
Retro Slippers for Baby
Longways Multiyarn Stole
Loose Rib Wrap
Box Top
Chapter 9: Rectangles for the Home
Felted Potholders
Throw Pillows
Journal Cover
Nested Squares Baby Blanket
Chapter 10: Almost Rectangles
Felted Messenger Bag
One-Piece Baby Sweater
Deceptively Simple Shell
Shawl-Collared Coat
Hooded Coat
Part 4: Patterns with Circles, Triangles, and More
Chapter 11: Knitting in Circles
Ruffled Cowl
Wrist Warmers
Ruffled Muffatees
Basic Beanies
Storybook Hats
Mosaic Bags
Chapter 12: Shaping Triangles
The Most Basic Kerchief Ever
The Most Basic Shawl Ever
Fully Fashioned Kerchief
Lacy Shawl
Stretchy Halter Top
Short Row Scarf
Harlequin Blanket
Chapter 13: Putting Together Rectangles and Triangles
V-Neck T-Shirt
Kid’s Top
Rollneck Pullover
Classic V-Neck Sweater
Chapter 14: Knitting Beyond Geometry Class
Bulky Zipped Cardigan
Half-Ribbed Raglan Cardigan
Scoop-Neck Pullover
Lacy V-Neck Top
Part 5: The Part of Tens
Chapter 15: Ten Things You Can Knit with that Aren’t Yarn or Needles
Raffia or Ribbon
Kite String
Plastic Bags
Old T-Shirts
Cassette Tapes
Licorice Ropes
Pencils
Chopsticks
Skewers or Toothpicks
Tinkertoys
Chapter 16: Almost Ten Things You Can Do with Your Swatches
Knit a Set of Coasters
Sew Some Cozies
Create Cat Toys
Whip Up Washcloths and Soap Sacks
Make Slippers
Stitch a Crazy Quilt
Keep a Knitting Journal
Stash Away Swatches for Later Mending
Store Swatches as Emergency Yarn
Chapter 17: Ten Ways to MacGyver Your Knitting
Winding Your Yarn with Power
Crafting Your Own Knitting Needles
Using Makeshift Cable Needles
Measuring Your Knitting with Handy Items
Substituting for Stitch Markers
Storing Your Notions
Smoothing Out Your Rough Edges
Putting Your Stitches on Hold
Counting Stitches and Rows the Low-Tech Way
Cutting Yarn without Scissors
Chapter 18: Ten Smart Ways to Care for Your Knits
Read the Label
Wash Wisely
Avoid Hot Water and Agitation
Always Air-Dry
Clean Your Knits Regularly
Store Your Knits Flat or Folded
Save Some Yarn for Later (Just in Case)
Knit Like You Care
Give Care Instructions with a Gift
Remember that Not Everything You Knit Is an Heirloom
Appendix: Basic Knitting Skills
Binding Off
Blocking
Light blocking
Wet blocking
Casting On
Crocheted Edging
Crocheting a Chain
Felting
Knit Stitch
Knitting into the Back of a Stitch
Making Stitches Knitwise and Purlwise
Mattress Stitch
Purl Stitch
Ripping Back Stitches
Slipping Stitches
Weaving in Ends
Index
About the Author
Supplemental Images
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
Chapter 1
Table 1-1 Yarn Classes
Table 1-2 Estimates of Yards of Yarn Needed for Projects
Table 1-3 Yarn Needed to Knit One Square Inch
Chapter 2
Table 2-1 Cast-On Numbers for Scarves in Different Gauges
Chapter 3
Table 3-1 Standardized Women’s Sizes
Chapter 4
Table 4-1 Common Knitting Abbreviations
Chapter 8
Table 8-1 The Cast-On Numbers for Different Gauges
Table 8-2 Cast-On Chart for Adult Retro Slippers
Chapter 11
Table 11-1 Cast-On Numbers for Different Yarns and Gauges
Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: Yarn labels contain lots of useful information.
FIGURE 1-2: Different needles for different jobs.
FIGURE 1-3: Needles come in a variety of sizes.
FIGURE 1-4: Tools to help you mark and hold your stitches.
FIGURE 1-5: Handy finishing tools you want to have around.
Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: Different needles yield different stitch sizes.
FIGURE 2-2: A handy device for checking gauge and needle size.
FIGURE 2-3: Measuring your gauge.
Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: How to measure yourself (or someone else).
FIGURE 3-2: What to measure on your favorite sweater.
Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: Symbolcraft — knitting’s secret code.
FIGURE 4-2: A cable pattern presented in chart form.
FIGURE 4-3: A lace pattern presented in chart form.
FIGURE 4-4: A color pattern chart.
Chapter 5
FIGURE 5-1: Garter stitch.
FIGURE 5-2: Stockinette stitch.
FIGURE 5-3: Reverse stockinette stitch.
FIGURE 5-4: Seed stitch.
FIGURE 5-5: Box stitch.
FIGURE 5-6: Half linen stitch.
Chapter 6
FIGURE 6-1: Knit 1, purl 1 creates a classic rib.
FIGURE 6-2: 2 × 2 rib adds stretch where you need it.
FIGURE 6-3: 4 × 2 rib creates strong vertical lines.
FIGURE 6-4: Broken rib is a type of false rib.
FIGURE 6-5: Two-stitch rib combines 2 × 2 rib with seed stitch.
FIGURE 6-6: Two-stitch twists worked in a rib pattern.
FIGURE 6-7: A chart of the two-stitch twist.
FIGURE 6-8: Four-stitch front cable (on the left) and four-stitch back cable (o...
FIGURE 6-9: C4F and C4B, charted.
FIGURE 6-10: A six-stitch left-twisting cable.
FIGURE 6-11: A six-stitch right-twisting cable.
FIGURE 6-12: Horseshoe cables.
FIGURE 6-13: Charting a horseshoe cable.
FIGURE 6-14: Two wave cables flank a chain cable.
FIGURE 6-15: A chart of two wave cables and a chain cable.
FIGURE 6-16: A yarn over creates a hole called an eyelet.
FIGURE 6-17: Making a yarn over.
FIGURE 6-18: The k2tog stitch slants to the right.
FIGURE 6-19: Working the left-slanting ssk stitch.
FIGURE 6-20: Openwork is a good introduction to lace knitting.
FIGURE 6-21: A chart of the openwork pattern.
FIGURE 6-22: Feather and fan is a beautiful pattern with dozens of variations.
FIGURE 6-23: Feather and fan charted.
FIGURE 6-24: Climbing vine lace.
FIGURE 6-25: Climbing vine lace chart.
FIGURE 6-26: Arrowhead lace.
FIGURE 6-27: Arrowhead lace chart.
Chapter 7
FIGURE 7-1: Two-row stripes are the easiest kind of stripe to make.
FIGURE 7-2: A pattern of regular stripes.
FIGURE 7-3: A different arrangement of colors on the same stripe pattern.
FIGURE 7-4: Random stripes create visual interest.
FIGURE 7-5: A simple stranded pattern creates dots of color.
FIGURE 7-6: A chart of the simple stranded pattern.
FIGURE 7-7: A simple Fair Isle motif.
FIGURE 7-8: A chart of the small Fair Isle motif.
FIGURE 7-9: A Fair Isle border pattern.
FIGURE 7-10: A chart of a Fair Isle border.
FIGURE 7-11: Puzzle piece mosaic.
FIGURE 7-12: Puzzle piece mosaic chart.
FIGURE 7-13: The woven cord mosaic.
FIGURE 7-14: The woven cord mosaic, charted.
FIGURE 7-15: Three 8-stitch mosaics from top to bottom.
FIGURE 7-16: Little mosaic chart.
FIGURE 7-17: The chart for the little boxes mosaic.
FIGURE 7-18: Miniature mosaic chart.
FIGURE 7-19: Starting the duplicate stitch technique.
FIGURE 7-20: Showing progress on duplicate stitch.
FIGURE 7-21: Adding detail with surface crochet.
FIGURE 7-22: A quick design adds personality.
Chapter 8
FIGURE 8-1: Garter stitch scarves feature elongated stitches.
FIGURE 8-2: Making elongated stitches with a double wrap.
FIGURE 8-3: Dropping the extra wraps forms elongated stitches.
FIGURE 8-4: A Fibonacci ribbed scarf is classic.
FIGURE 8-5: Bring the yarn between and under the needles when switching from kn...
FIGURE 8-6: A box stitch scarf is always fresh.
FIGURE 8-7: Knitting with two yarns held together.
FIGURE 8-8: Flat hats work great for babies.
FIGURE 8-9: Try these easy slippers for baby — and the whole family!
FIGURE 8-10: Folding and sewing your slippers.
FIGURE 8-11: A longways multiyarn stole is breathtaking.
FIGURE 8-12: Knitting the first stitch in a new color.
FIGURE 8-13: A loose rib wrap is a glamorous accessory to any ensemble.
FIGURE 8-14: Putting the poncho together.
FIGURE 8-15: Turning a rectangle wrap into a shrug.
FIGURE 8-16: The unboxy box top.
FIGURE 8-17: The box top schematic shows its shapeliness.
FIGURE 8-18: The box top made short and simple.
Chapter 9
FIGURE 9-1: Felted potholders (and coasters) are quick and easy to make.
FIGURE 9-2: How you arrange your squares makes a dramatic difference in style.
FIGURE 9-3: Spruce up your living space with throw pillows.
FIGURE 9-4: Stitches made with yarn in back and with yarn in front.
FIGURE 9-5: Journal covers that fit blank books or standard loose-leaf binders.
FIGURE 9-6: A paneled blanket makes a perfect gift for baby.
FIGURE 9-7: The order and direction in which to knit each section of your blank...
FIGURE 9-8: Picking up stitches on a garter edge.
Chapter 10
FIGURE 10-1: The felted messenger bag has linen stitch straps.
FIGURE 10-2: The first step of the cable cast-on.
FIGURE 10-3: Putting your needle between the stitches.
FIGURE 10-4: Wrapping the yarn around the edge stitch.
FIGURE 10-5: The dimensions of the messenger bag before felting.
FIGURE 10-6: Attaching the straps to your bag.
FIGURE 10-7: This baby sweater is knit all in one piece.
FIGURE 10-8: The shape and dimensions of the baby sweater.
FIGURE 10-9: The deceptively simple shell is curve-hugging.
FIGURE 10-10: The dimensions of the deceptively simple shell.
FIGURE 10-11: The shawl-collared coat can be worn in all seasons.
FIGURE 10-12: Lining things up for the three-needle bind-off.
FIGURE 10-13: Knitting the first stitch from both needles together.
FIGURE 10-14: Binding off the first stitch.
FIGURE 10-15: Picking up stitches on a vertical edge.
FIGURE 10-16: Picking up stitches on a horizontal edge.
FIGURE 10-17: The shape and dimensions of the shawl-collared coat.
FIGURE 10-18: The hooded coat features contrasting seed stitch on the hood and ...
FIGURE 10-19: The shape and dimensions of the hooded coat.
Chapter 11
FIGURE 11-1: A cowl makes a great neck warmer.
FIGURE 11-2: No twists are in the cast-on row.
FIGURE 11-3: Use a marker when you join your knitting in the round.
FIGURE 11-4: Increasing with kfb.
FIGURE 11-5: The dimensions of the cowl.
FIGURE 11-6: The shape and dimensions of the poncho.
FIGURE 11-7: Wrist warmers are a great project on double-pointed needles.
FIGURE 11-8: Divide your cast-on stitches among three double-pointed needles.
FIGURE 11-9: Knitting the first stitch of the round on double-pointed needles.
FIGURE 11-10: Ruffled muffatees warm your wrists with style.
FIGURE 11-11: A basic beanie and its cabled cousin.
FIGURE 11-12: A storybook hat chases away the winter blues.
FIGURE 11-13: The felted mosaic purse and tote.
FIGURE 11-14: The pinbox mosaic pattern repeat presented in a chart.
Chapter 12
FIGURE 12-1: A kerchief worked from tip to top.
FIGURE 12-2: A stunning (and stunningly simple) shawl.
FIGURE 12-3: Two smaller triangular shawls make a great poncho.
FIGURE 12-4: A fully fashioned kerchief.
FIGURE 12-5: Paired right- and left-slanting decreases add panache to a simple ...
FIGURE 12-6: The k2tog tbl stitch leans to the left.
FIGURE 12-7: Decreasing with skp.
FIGURE 12-8: A lacy shawl is dramatic and flattering.
FIGURE 12-9: Two triangles worked together to create an easy-to-wear shawl.
FIGURE 12-10: A halter top is great on its own or layered with a shawl or jacke...
FIGURE 12-11: The schematic for the halter top.
FIGURE 12-12: Triangles come together to make a scarf.
FIGURE 12-13: Wrapping a stitch when working short rows.
FIGURE 12-14: Picking up and knitting the short row wrap.
FIGURE 12-15: This scarf is made up of 6-inch triangles knit one at a time.
FIGURE 12-16: A beautiful blanket made from triangles.
FIGURE 12-17: A pleasing layout of triangles in three colors.
Chapter 13
FIGURE 13-1: An easygoing short-sleeved shirt for all occasions.
FIGURE 13-2: The schematic of the finished V-neck T-shirt.
FIGURE 13-3: A kid’s favorite hand-knit top.
FIGURE 13-4: The correct stitches to pick up on a neckline.
FIGURE 13-5: A crochet hook makes it easy to pick up and knit.
FIGURE 13-6: The schematic of the kid’s shirt.
FIGURE 13-7: A casual rollneck sweater.
FIGURE 13-8: A set-in sleeve cap looks like a mountain.
FIGURE 13-9: Lay down your sweater to match a semidetached sleeve to its armhol...
FIGURE 13-10: The schematic of the finished rollneck pullover.
FIGURE 13-11: A classic V-neck sweater.
FIGURE 13-12: The schematic of the V-neck sweater.
Chapter 14
FIGURE 14-1: A zipped cardigan chases chills.
FIGURE 14-2: Lift the horizontal thread between stitches and knit it to make on...
FIGURE 14-3: Working an untwisted m1.
FIGURE 14-4: A schematic of the bulky zipped cardigan.
FIGURE 14-5: Attaching a zipper.
FIGURE 14-6: A half-ribbed raglan cardigan has an easy-fitting neck.
FIGURE 14-7: The schematic of the half-ribbed raglan cardigan.
FIGURE 14-8: The scoop-neck pullover with Fair Isle borders.
FIGURE 14-9: The measurements of the scoop-neck pullover.
FIGURE 14-10: The 8-stitch Fair Isle chart, with three selvedge stitches.
FIGURE 14-11: This lacy V-neck can be knit cropped or hip length.
FIGURE 14-12: The schematic of the lacy V-neck top.
FIGURE 14-13: The dimensions and shaping of the full-length top.
Chapter 18
FIGURE 18-1: Common care icons on yarn labels.
Appendix
FIGURE A-1: Binding off.
FIGURE A-2: Casting on with the long-tail method.
FIGURE A-3: Crocheting an edge.
FIGURE A-4: Crocheting a chain.
FIGURE A-5: Inserting the right-hand needle into the stitch to knit.
FIGURE A-6: Making a new knit stitch.
FIGURE A-7: Identifying horizontal threads.
FIGURE A-8: A mattress stitch forms an invisible seam.
FIGURE A-9: Tidying up the cast-on edge.
FIGURE A-10: Seaming up two garter stitch pieces.
FIGURE A-11: Joining a side and an end with mattress stitch.
FIGURE A-12: The first steps in purling.
FIGURE A-13: Finishing a purl stitch.
FIGURE A-14: Unknitting a stitch.
FIGURE A-15: Inserting the needle in the row below.
FIGURE A-16: Putting your stitches back on the needle.
FIGURE A-17: Weaving in your ends.
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Table of Contents
Begin Reading
Appendix: Basic Knitting Skills
Index
About the Author
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I have great enthusiasm for knitting and for sharing the craft with others. Because you’ve picked up this book, you clearly share at least some of my enthusiasm. It’s hard to put a finger on what it is about knitting that pulls people in. Maybe it’s the simple, repetitive motions and the feel and look of the fibers and fabrics that we create; or maybe it’s the chance to share in a long tradition that cuts across boundaries of age and background. It’s also pretty cool to be able to point to a garment and say “I made that beautiful, warm thing with some string and a couple of sticks!” Whatever it is that attracts you, knitting is something that you can return to your whole life, making all kinds of projects — and friends — along the way.
I love teaching people how to knit. And, even more, I love teaching them to knit the things that they want to knit. Putting this book together challenged me to come up with straightforward patterns with broad appeal and lots of room for improvisation. I charged myself with two goals: to make designs that would flatter lots of different people and to think carefully about keeping the shapes simple, relying on basic shapes like rectangles, cylinders, and triangles to create patterns that are knittable and easy to understand.
I hope that you take the patterns in this book and make them your own. Even if you’re new to knitting, you can still make design decisions, whether it’s the color combination you choose or the yarn and stitch pattern you decide to knit. I firmly believe that all knitters can be their own designers. So, I try to provide opportunities for you to master not only knitting skills but also skills that you need to understand why things are the way they are in a pattern — and how to change them if you want to.
Whether you’re a brand new knitter, a seasoned stitcher, or someone returning to the needles after a long absence, this book gives you lots of great patterns to choose from and plenty of help along the way. Knitting Patterns For Dummies is filled with classic knits that won’t go out of style — and they’re all presented in an easy-to-follow format.
Knitting Patterns For Dummies is chock-full of knitting patterns. In fact, the book contains nearly 40 basic designs. And with the variations offered at the end of many of the patterns, you have lots of projects to choose from! You’ll find that the patterns are flexible, which means that you can knit from the same pattern more than once using different yarns or details. So, each time you knit from the pattern you can come up with something new and fresh.
The offerings in this book have a broad range of appeal. You can find things for adults, babies and kids, and things for your home — there’s something for everyone. But more important, perhaps, is the fact that this book has something for every body. While many knitting patterns top out at rather diminutive sizes, Knitting Patterns For Dummies offers size-inclusive patterns through 3X.
You may have noticed that this is a big book — a big book with lots of writing. Because of all this writing, it may not be as pretty as some of the other knitting books on the shelf. But Knitting Patterns For Dummies has room for lots of patterns, with plenty of space left over for me to explain everything I think you need to know to work your way through them.
For instance, Part 2 offers a mini stitch dictionary with practice opportunities for trying different stitches, which is helpful to consult if you want to substitute a different stitch pattern, figure out how to work successfully with more than one color, or turn your first cable. In addition, if you come across a technique that’s unusual or a skill that you may not have picked up yet, you can find it right there in the pattern in the “New skill” section. You won’t have to run to your reference shelf, consult other sources, or wait until Friday morning for knitting class. I explain things like picking up and knitting right where you need them (with accompanying diagrams even!). Hopefully, you’ll feel like you have an expert knitter right there with you.
Don’t worry — you don’t have to read more than 300 pages to get started on knitting the great projects in this book! If you’re familiar with knitting basics, you can dive right in and start knitting. Look through the table of contents or browse through the photographs in the color insert to decide what you want to make. Pick and choose the information you need at any time.
I include a few standard conventions to help you navigate this book:
Italics
point out defined terms and emphasize certain words.
Boldface
text indicates the key words in bulleted and numbered lists.
Monofont
highlights web addresses.
Each pattern in this book begins with a photograph of the finished project. And if you have to use any techniques that may be new to you, they’re explained in the “New skill” section of the pattern. I also give you the materials and vital statistics needed for the project right up front; look there to find information regarding the size of the finished project, the materials you need to complete it, the gauge you need to knit at, and any diagrams that may help you complete the project. After the directions for the basic pattern, you’ll often find one or more variations. These variations provide instructions and inspiration for altering the pattern, which allows you to knit the same pattern in lots of different ways. I suggest that you read the variations before you start the pattern to see if you want to knit one of the variations instead. In some cases, the supplies you need are different from those listed in the basic pattern.
Like most books of knitting patterns, this book uses conventional pattern formatting and some standard knitting abbreviations. You can familiarize yourself with the abbreviations and find out how to read patterns in Chapter 4.
This book isn’t a “learn to knit” book, though I do think it’s a “learn to knit better” book. I assume that you’re either a beginning knitter who’s looking for an easy introduction to patterns or an experienced knitter who wants some new patterns to try and to experiment with. If you’ve never knit a single stitch, you may want to flip through Knitting For Dummies by Pam Allen (Wiley), take a lesson, or have a friend guide you through the steps of casting on, knitting, purling, and binding off. Once you have the hang of the absolute basics, you’ll be ready to jump into the patterns presented in this book.
And despite the title of the book, I’m assuming that you’re no dummy and that you’re absolutely capable of doing what you set your mind to. I have little tolerance for those people who claim they can’t do basic math or can’t follow a set of instructions. The directions in this book are broken down step by step and are written without unnecessary jargon or knitterese. Over half the projects are suitable first projects and all of them are within the grasp of the adventurous novice. Sure, you’ll sometimes run into frustration along the way, but I firmly believe that doing something a little bit challenging is good for you. Challenges are good for your brain and good for your self-esteem. In fact, science has shown that having the right amount of challenge is what makes a hobby engaging. So go ahead and be ambitious.
The first two parts of this book contain information that you may want to know before you start knitting, particularly if you’re a new knitter. The bulk of the book, Parts 3 and 4, are the pattern chapters. The patterns in these parts are organized by their basic geometry, starting with the rectangle and moving up in complexity to fully shaped sweaters for the whole family. Similarly, each chapter is organized by level of difficulty, so choose patterns at the beginning of a chapter if you’re looking for a simpler project and choose ones at the end of a chapter if you want a more ambitious project.
Part 1 is packed with useful information. Chapter 1, for instance, introduces you to the basic tools of the trade: yarn, needles, and the other gadgets that you want to have at hand. Chapter 2 gives you the lowdown on gauge. Understanding what gauge is and how to knit at the gauge specified in a pattern is vital to knitting pieces that fit well and turn out right. If you’re a new knitter, or if the garments you knit never seem to fit right, read Chapter 2 and take it to heart! If you take the opportunity to practice gauge and get it right, you’ll be richly rewarded. Chapter 3 deals with taking body measurements and knowing what size garments to knit. Because you can’t try your sweater on before you knit it, it’s imperative to know what size is right for you. Finally, in Chapter 4, I give you guidance on reading knitting patterns. Knitting can seem like a foreign language at times, but after you master the lingo, you’ll be ready to read.
Part 2 provides step-by-step instructions for the stitch patterns used in this book and some others you might like to try. If, for example, you need a refresher on how to knit seed stitch in the round or want to try your hand at half linen stitch, Chapter 5 is the place to turn. This chapter is where I cover the simplest stitches. Chapter 6 introduces you to a variety of textures that can be used all over a piece or as accents. Study this chapter to master the basics of ribbing, cabling, and knitting lace. If you want to learn about stripes, Fair Isle, or mosaic patterns, check out Chapter 7, which introduces color work. In that chapter, I also show you how to add a bit of color with duplicate stitch or surface crochet after your handknit is complete.
The easiest shape to knit is a rectangle, but the simplicity of the knitting doesn’t mean that these patterns are boring — they’re anything but! Start off with rectangles to wear in Chapter 8. You’ll find scarves here, of course, but you also can choose from stoles, hats, slippers, and even a top — all of which are rectangles. Really. But wait, there’s more! Chapter 9 gives you rectangular projects for the home: pillows, potholders, a lovely and smart looking baby blanket, and a journal cover perfect for your knitting notebook. Chapter 10 introduces just a hint of shaping. By binding off and casting on in the right places, you can make a wonderful messenger bag, a baby sweater, a couple of fantastic coats, or a great shell that you’ll love to wear. To look at these pieces, you’d never guess that the knitting was so straightforward. These projects are well within the grasp of any knitters who have whetted their needles on their first scarves or dishcloths and are ready for something a bit more ambitious.
After you’ve gotten the hang of all things rectilinear, try your hand at the patterns presented in Part 4. This part begins with circles in Chapter 11. Working in the round is no more complex than knitting a rectangle. In fact, it’s easier in some cases! So why not choose a storybook-inspired stocking cap, stylish wrist warmers, or a ruffled cowl to warm your neck? If you’re feeling ambitious, cast on for the mosaic-patterned felted purse. Chapter 12 familiarizes you with triangles. Easy kerchiefs and shawls help you understand the ins and outs of shaping, and you can practice short rows by making the surprisingly simple short row scarf or harlequin blanket.
The next two chapters — Chapters 13 and 14 — put all the shapes together as you move on to more involved projects: classic sweaters for the whole family. These projects combine the skills used in earlier chapters, but in their basic forms they’re fine choices for knitters who are ready to make their first sweater.
In Chapter 13, you find an all-purpose pattern for a kid’s top. Make it with short or long sleeves, cabled or not, wool or cotton — the choice is yours. I also include patterns for a T-shirt and sweaters. One of the sweaters is more casual with rolled edges and a bit of color, and another is a fine-gauged sweater with traditional finishing.
Chapter 14 includes two top-down cardigans. One is bulky and zipped — ready for weekends outdoors — and the other is half-ribbed with a wide collar and clean lines. Finally, you can also choose from two pullovers. These pullovers have shaping at the waist, and you can knit either a scooped neck or a wide V-neck. The scoop neck is shown with Fair Isle borders and the V-neck is cropped and accented with lace. However, the details on these sweaters are interchangeable, which allows you to create a top that’s just what you want.
This part of the book is a mixed bag of little chapters that are full of tips and whimsy. They’re great to read when you need a break from your knitting. Discover what to do with your swatches, how to knit with some unusual things, and how to care for your knits after they’re complete.
If you find yourself stuck at some point, look to the appendix, which features basic knitting skills. The appendix can refresh your memory on knitting basics, such as casting on, knitting, purling, binding off, and more. Remember too that the index can point you to pages where skills are described in greater depth.
See those little pictures in the margins of this book? Those pictures are icons, and they indicate the following information:
When you see this icon, know that I am pointing out something that you shouldn’t forget. It marks information that you can apply to your knitting whenever a similar situation arises.
This icon highlights the tricks of the trade that experienced knitters have discovered and shared with one another along the way. Following these tips will make your knitting easier.
This icon marks points where things can get confusing. When you see text highlighted by this icon, be sure you’re reading carefully. This information may save you from making frustrating mistakes.
From patterns and abbreviations to instructions and tools, I pack a lot of information in this book, and some of it you may want to find in a snap. So if you need a place to jot down measurements or a quick reference for abbreviations, you can use the online Cheat Sheet for all that and more. To access this informative Cheat Sheet, go to www.dummies.com and type “Knitting Patterns For Dummies” in the search box.
Remember, unless you want to, you don’t need to read this book from front to back like a novel. Instead, you can jump around to the parts that you need to read for a specific project. Here are some suggestions as to how to get started:
If you haven’t already, take a few minutes to look through the photographs in the color insert. Checking out the photos will give you a quick introduction to the many patterns presented in the book.
If you’ve just started knitting or want to improve your knitting skills, I strongly suggest that you read through
Part 1
before you start a project. I know it’s no fun to get a bit of meat and potatoes before the dessert, but the time that you spend getting to know how to choose yarn, read patterns, and accurately measure yourself and your knitting will be returned to you with interest when you get satisfying results (with less aggravation!).
If you’re comfortable knitting and reading patterns, flip right to the project that you want to make and dive in. Each pattern stands on its own, so you can start anywhere you want. Remember that the patterns in
Part 3
are easier than the ones in
Part 4
. If you find that you’re having trouble with one of the later patterns, refresh yourself with something easier and then go back to the more ambitious project.
If you’re looking for a certain kind of pattern or want to gain experience with a certain skill, look to the table of contents. All projects, as well as their variations and the new skills, are listed there.
And don’t forget: If you want even more knitting information, be sure to check out Knitting For Dummies by Pam Allen (Wiley).
Part 1
IN THIS PART …
Gathering your knitting supplies
Understanding gauge and measurements
Figuring out sizes and measurements
Getting a handle on reading patterns and abbreviations
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