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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
The complete how-to guide on all things textured hair Natural & Curly Hair For Dummies offers you step-by-step direction and accurate information to manage and style your hair. Celebrity hairstylist Johnny Wright is here to help you ditch the chemicals and love your textured locks. You'll learn to tame frizz, keep your hair moisturized and looking luscious. With the right tricks, tips, and advice you can get a halo of soft, healthy curls just the way you want them. Plus, you'll find out how Johnny maintains the hair health of his most notable clients like Queen Latifah, Tamron Hall, Kerry Washington, and Michelle Obama. This book offers simple and useful scalp and hair guidance for Black and Latin hair care maintenance including styling tips to properly take care of your natural hair. * Learn how natural and curly hair works, including hair porosity & hair elasticity * Deal with breakage, dryness, dandruff, shedding, tangles, and frizz * Discover techniques on coloring and bleaching natural hair Learn which ingredients and products will help keep your unique hair texture and type healthy and looking its best * Master toddler, child, and teen styles and care--for adoptive parents, parents of biracial children, and caregivers With full-color photographs throughout, Natural & Curly Hair For Dummies will give you the skills you need to bring out the born-with-it beauty in that amazing ethnic hair!
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Seitenzahl: 434
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2022
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Natural & Curly Hair For Dummies®
Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com
Copyright © 2023 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2022945759
ISBN: 978-1-119-84338-2 (pbk); ISBN: 978-1-119-84339-9 (ebk); ISBN: 978-1-119-84340-5 (ebk)
Natural and Curly Hair For Dummies®
To view this book's Cheat Sheet, simply go to www.dummies.com and search for “Natural and Curly Hair For Dummies Cheat Sheet” in the Search box.
Table of Contents
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Foreword
Introduction
About This Book
Icons Used in This Book
Beyond the Book
Where to Go from Here
Part 1: Embracing Your Natural and Curly Hair
Chapter 1: Natural Is Beautiful
Smashing the Stigma Surrounding Natural Hair
Understanding Your Own Natural Hair History
Getting Comfortable with Your Natural Hair
Reshaping the Natural Hair Narrative
Chapter 2: The Biology of Hair
Getting Down to the Root of the Matter: Hair Structure
Checking Out What’s on Your Head
Grasping and Maximizing Growth Cycles
Chapter 3: Getting to Know Your Hair
Defining Your Hair Texture and Type
Getting Clear on Density
Making the Decision to Go Natural
Part 2: Maintaining Your Natural and Curly Hair
Chapter 4: Fresh and Clean: Wash Day
Setting Your Wash-Day Schedule
Ow! Detangling Your Hair
Taking Special Care of Your Scalp
’Pooing Like a Pro
Conditioning Your Curls, Kinks, and Coils
Co-Washing
Handy Tools: Using Your Fingers
Adding Moisture: Hair Treatments
Drying Methods
Chapter 5: Your Daily Root-ine
Managing Your Expectations
Selecting Products for Daily Use
Establishing Your Hair Routines
Styling on the Daily
Chapter 6: Keeping Your Hair Healthy
Keeping Your Curls Moisturized
Acknowledging Your Environment: Air Pollution, Humidity, and More
Preserving Your Beautiful Curls
Consulting with a Professional
Part 3: The Best Products and Tools for Natural and Curly Hair
Chapter 7: Picking the Perfect Products
Focusing on the Holy Grail of Hair Care
Exploring the Basics of Vital Hair Care Ingredients
Investigating Amazing Ingredients That Double as Supplements
Avoiding the “Bad” Ingredients
Choosing Products That Work Best for Your Hair
Turning Your Kitchen into a DIY Product Treasure Trove
Chapter 8: Selecting and Mastering Tools
Brushes
Getting to Know Your Combs
Applying Heat
Part 4: Creating Styles for Your Natural and Curly Hair
Chapter 9: Styling Your Natural Hair
Wearing a Wash-and-Go
Braiding Your Hair
Twisting Your Hair
Rocking Your Locs
Wearing Extensions and Wigs
Coloring and Bleaching Natural and Curly Hair
Getting Your Hair Cut
Blowing Out Your Hair
Chapter 10: Quick and Easy Style Ideas
Styling Your Braids
Sealing your braids
Styling Options for Twists
Rocking Bantu Knots
Shaping and Styling Afros
Building a Bun
Using Scarves and Turbans
Part 5: Considerations for Kids
Chapter 11: Kiddie Curl Power
Understanding Your Child’s Natural and Curly Hair
Thinking of Natural Hair as a Superpower
Practicing Healthy Hair Habits from the Start
Advocating for Natural Hair
Chapter 12: Kid-Friendly Styles and Products
Setting the Stage for Styling Success
Detangling Before You Style
Styling Ideas for Your Child
Styling with Kid-Friendly Products
Part 6: The Part of Tens
Chapter 13: Ten Natural and Curly Hair Do’s and Don’ts
Do: Take Care of Your Scalp
Don’t: Skip or Rush Detangling
Do: Steam Treat Your Curls
Don’t: Neglect Your Split Ends
Do: Protect Your Hair at Night
Don’t: Heat Style Too Often
Do: Deep Condition Regularly
Don’t: Over-Manipulate Your Curls
Do: Take Care of All of You
Don’t: Skip or Delay Wash Day
Chapter 14: Ten Hairstyling Tips from Industry Experts
Combat Hair Loss with Keratin Fibers
Stop Double Conditioning
Treat Your Twist Outs Well
Use Leave-In Conditioner to Seal Your Hair’s Cuticle
Detangle Regularly
Master the Wash-and-Go
Add Extra Love to Your Protective Styles
Hydrate, Trim, and Have Fun
Use Steam to Improve Absorption
Develop Your Diffusing Skills
Chapter 15: Ten Ways to Get Comfortable with Your Natural and Curly Hair
Practice Self-Love
Commit to the Long Game
Dare to Not Compare
Find a Good Hair Care Regimen
Wear Your Hair Out
Experiment with Extensions
Take the No-Heat Challenge
Expand Your Education
Find a Feel-Good Community
Pick Patience
Index
About the Author
Advertisement Page
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
List of Illustrations
Chapter 1
FIGURE 1-1: Natural and curly hair is versatile and beautiful.
FIGURE 1-2: Natural hair has a place in all workplaces.
FIGURE 1-3: Wear your afro (or whatever style you want) with pride!
FIGURE 1-4: A quick and easy workplace style.
Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: The anatomy of a strand of hair and hair-root components.
FIGURE 2-2: The hair follicle determines the hair texture.
FIGURE 2-3: Check your scalp periodically to ensure that it’s healthy.
FIGURE 2-4: The cuticle of the hair strand determines its porosity.
FIGURE 2-5: The hair growth cycle consists of three stages.
Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: Hair typing chart.
FIGURE 3-2: Loose ringlets and spirals are the main features of Type 2c hair.
FIGURE 3-3: Type 3 hair features ringlets, spirals, and corkscrews.
FIGURE 3-4: Type 4 hair is tightly coiled.
FIGURE 3-5: You can use flexi-rods for a fabulous look.
FIGURE 3-6: Perm rod sets are a great tool to have on hand when you’re growing ...
FIGURE 3-7: The big chop.
Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: Use a wide-tooth comb to detangle your tresses.
Chapter 5
FIGURE 5-1: Your curly bestie can give you the encouragement you need during yo...
FIGURE 5-2: Pineapple your hair in a decorative scarf for an quick daytime updo...
FIGURE 5-3: A silk or satin bonnet (shown), scarf, or pillowcase are must-haves...
FIGURE 5-4: Restyle a wash-and-go into a half updo.
Chapter 6
FIGURE 6-1: Don’t fight humidity, embrace it!
FIGURE 6-2: With the right shampoo, conditioners, and routines, you can maintai...
FIGURE 6-3: A licensed hairstylist can provide guidance to properly care for yo...
Chapter 7
FIGURE 7-1: Coconut Curling Cream from Cantu.
Chapter 8
FIGURE 8-1: The Felicia Leatherwood detangler brush’s design and function makes...
FIGURE 8-2: When selecting a paddle brush, look for strong rubber handles and t...
FIGURE 8-3: Another example of a paddle brush.
FIGURE 8-4: Boar bristle brushes are the industry standard for perfectly sleek ...
FIGURE 8-5: A fine-tooth comb.
FIGURE 8-6: A wide-tooth comb.
FIGURE 8-7: A rat tail comb.
FIGURE 8-8: Use a pick (a) to add volume to your hair (b).
FIGURE 8-9: The RevAir hairdryer.
FIGURE 8-10: The RevAir sucks air instead of blowing to dry your hair.
FIGURE 8-11: Before and after using the RevAir blow dryer.
FIGURE 8-12: Use a curling iron wand to add more defined curls.
Chapter 9
FIGURE 9-1: Air drying your wash-and-go cuts down on daily styling time.
FIGURE 9-2: Braids protect your hair from constant manipulation and can give yo...
FIGURE 9-3: Box braids.
FIGURE 9-4: Cornrows are beautiful on their own or as a foundation for crochet ...
FIGURE 9-5: Cornrows in an intricate design.
FIGURE 9-6: Use a crochet hook to loop extensions onto your cornrows.
FIGURE 9-7: A stylist can show you how to perfect your twists at home.
FIGURE 9-8: Naturalistas who have 4a to 4c hair can rock a two-strand twist lik...
FIGURE 9-9: There are two different ways to install Senegalese twists: Traditio...
FIGURE 9-10: TextureMatchKit by KnappyHair.
FIGURE 9-11: Installed clip-ins from KnappyHair Extensions.
FIGURE 9-12: If you want safe and effective hair color, visit a professional.
FIGURE 9-13: A stylist can give you a cut that is low maintenance.
FIGURE 9-14: Use a blow-dryer to straighten your curls for even mor...
Chapter 10
FIGURE 10-1: Micro braids can give the illusion of individual hair strands.
FIGURE 10-2: Braids can be pulled back into a ponytail using loose hair ties.
FIGURE 10-3: Determine the placement of your braids in an updo before you add b...
FIGURE 10-4: Smooth faux locs.
FIGURE 10-5: Straight (a), wavy (b).
FIGURE 10-6: Curly (a), twists (b).
FIGURE 10-7: Braids (a), faux locs (b).
FIGURE 10-8: Bantu knots, big and small.
FIGURE 10-9: Rocking an afro that’s not fully picked out.
FIGURE 10-10: Start your natural hair journey with a short afro.
FIGURE 10-11: A loose bun.
FIGURE 10-12: Create an updo using a scarf tied to contain your curls.
Chapter 11
FIGURE 11-1: Celebrate your child’s hair every day, in every way.
FIGURE 11-2: Incorporate positive words into your child’s hair routine.
FIGURE 11-3: Teach your children to love their natural hair by example.
FIGURE 11-4: Start healthy hair habits with young children to lay a good founda...
FIGURE 11-5: Styling your child’s hair provides an opportunity for some one-on-...
FIGURE 11-6: Teens can style their own wash-and-go’s (a), but other styles migh...
FIGURE 11-7: Use silicone elastic or fabric-covered bands instead of rubber ban...
FIGURE 11-8: Detangle your child’s afro regularly to keep it healthy and tangle...
Chapter 12
FIGURE 12-1: Kids can create their own styles using scarves or other accessorie...
FIGURE 12-2: A wash-and-go is a good option for kids who don’t want to sit thro...
FIGURE 12-3: Two different twist styles.
FIGURE 12-4: A few steps is all it takes to style your child’s afro.
FIGURE 12-5: A child with an afro puff.
FIGURE 12-6: A bun keeps a child’s hair out of the way of their busy hands.
FIGURE 12-7: A child with a curly mohawk.
Chapter 14
FIGURE 14-1: Jacqueline Tarrant, the expert behind Natural Hair Bar.
FIGURE 14-2: Alexis was ready for a change after dealing with hair loss.
FIGURE 14-3: Defining Alexis’ curls.
FIGURE 14-4: Applying matching clip-in tracks.
FIGURE 14-5: Keratin fibers can help in the hair loss recovery process.
FIGURE 14-6: The finished look.
FIGURE 14-7: Monica Stevens, the expert behind MoKnowsHair Curl Collection.
FIGURE 14-8: Celebrity hairstylist and entrepreneur Larry J. Sims.
FIGURE 14-9: Celebrity hairstylist Tippi Shorter Rank.
FIGURE 14-10: Certified trichologist, salon owner, platform stylist, and educat...
FIGURE 14-11: Celebrity hairstylist and New Image Beauty Expert Ursula Stephen....
FIGURE 14-12: Renown hairstylist and entrepreneur Nicole Mangrum.
FIGURE 14-13: Tym Wallace, celebrity hairstylist and makeup artist.
FIGURE 14-14: Celebrity hairstylist, beauty expert, and entrepreneur Kim Kimble...
FIGURE 14-15: Jamal Edmonds, owner and creative director of Lamaj in the City a...
Guide
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Table of Contents
Foreword
Begin Reading
Index
About the Author
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Foreword
Photography by Kwaku Alston
It’s fair to say Johnny Wright never gets it wrong. I say that with great confidence because I know, firsthand, that when it comes to hair, Johnny puts his heart into every strand. That’s because hair is truly in his blood.
The grandson of a hairstylist, Johnny’s relationship with hair started at birth. He embraces how important our hair is to our identities and how we express ourselves. And when it comes to natural hair, Johnny knows that the topic is fraught and hits so many nerves. It can also be a source of insecurity. But when you embrace your natural look, you can inspire and you can feel confident. Your hair — and especially your natural hair — can even be a statement, perhaps a political statement.
Regardless of how you choose to wear it, this book will teach you how to care for your hair and your heart at the same time. Johnny has taught me — and a long list of clients, celebrity and layperson alike — that these two things are connected.
After many years in the business, after so much research and so many conversations, Johnny understands the wants and needs of people looking for answers on how to properly care for their natural hair. His advice is approachable and accessible because that’s how he was raised. The roots!
This book is about making sure that your crown is on straight and everyone can see the glory that comes when you feel good about your hair.
Few others could offer such a textured journey with tips on each page to make your life a little easier. Read on to ensure every curl, coil, wave, and spiral is healthy and beautiful and unapologetically natural — like Johnny Wright.
—Tamron Hall
Introduction
Whether you’re here for yourself or someone you love, welcome! At first glance, this might look like a book. But to me, it’s so much more than that. What you hold in your hands is your space. It’s your place. It’s a living, breathing community of people coming together to understand, to heal, and to live life to the fullest.
Within these pages, you can find creation, inspiration, and celebration of our natural and curly hair community. This book lays out everything you need to know to care for healthy textured hair and figure out how to style it like the star it is. You don’t have to do hours of web searches to find styling tutorials or get stacks of books that each have one little chapter on natural hair maintenance. On the contrary, this book has everything you need to get started on the right path. It’s all about your hair care needs.
From cover to cover, this book is filled with how-to’s, professional hairstylist tips, product recommendations, and so much more — and it’s all (and only) for natural and curly hair. Forget about having only one small paragraph dedicated to natural and curly hair, like an afterthought, in a hair care book.
In this book, we explore the complex beauty of what natural and curly hair really means. I go beyond what you see on your head, and I talk about all the ways your hair connects to your heart and soul. They say that beauty is only skin deep, but to me, beauty is really about how you can reflect your power in all aspects of yourself, including your hair. Be who you truly are without hiding or feeling shame. And the natural and curly hair community has had a tough fight.
With this book, I’m here to help build you up, nurture you, and help you embrace your God-given beauty in all its glory. If you’ve spent one second not feeling like the radiant being you are because of your hair, that’s one second too many.
This is a new beginning for you and for me — for us. We’re sharing a very important journey, and I couldn’t be happier and prouder to be here with you.
And one final note before we really dive in: I’ve done my very best to pack this book full of something for everyone, but there’s so much to say, I could write a whole library on this subject! So, in some places, I give you my recommendations for additional resources and places to go for more support and help.
I hope you’re as excited about reading this book as I am writing it. It’s long overdue, and I’m so happy to bring this to you. It’s all about curl power!
If you or someone you love has natural and curly hair, you’ve come to the right place. You hold in your hands a book that’s chock-full of everything you need to know about keeping curly and natural hair healthy, styling it the way you want, and most of all, celebrating it every day in every way!
This book centers the spotlight on natural and curly hair within the African Diaspora (Black, Afro-Latinidad, and biracial) to address specific topics about hair care and styling within those communities. In this book, I not only give you the nuts and bolts of tools, products, and step-by-step instructions, but also provide some inspiration, motivation, and full support so that you can unlock the magic and beauty of your natural and curly hair.
Whether you’ve flaunted your curls your whole life and are looking for some new ideas to freshen up your look; you’re transitioning away from relaxed hair to fully natural; or you have a child or other loved one who’s blessed with beautifully textured hair that you want to figure out how to care for — this book is here to support your amazing hair journey, from root to tip.
About This Book
Although you can find a few hair care books and plenty online tutorials out there, this book is different. It brings together everything you need to know to live your best curly and natural hair life. This book gives you a little history on the power and journey of natural hair, little bits of basic hair biology info, insider pro tips for the best products and tools, and step-by-step processes for all the essential styles — from braids, to twists, to afros, and for those who love to heat style their hair. This book isn’t just one thing for one person; it’s textured and layered, just like the hair it celebrates. It’s part instruction manual, part personal shopper, part style maven, and alllllll about you.
Like all For Dummies books, the formatting of this book makes it super easy for you to find the information you want quickly and at a glance. To make the content more accessible, I divided it into six parts.
In Part 1, I set the stage for you so you can fully understand your unique head of hair. Go here if you want to explore anatomy and the science of your locs. In Part 2, I go over all the routines and regular maintenance you need to do to keep your hair healthy. If you want help with your daily routines or weekly wash days, this is the part for you. In Part 3, I take you through the land of products and tools so you can select the supplies that are best for you. If you need help making sense of your shopping options, this is where to go. In Part 4, I guide you as you discover how to do different styles. This is the part you need if you want to rock a certain look. In Part 5, I give you the lowdown on how to care for kids’ hair. This part is made just for parents, guardians, and all adults who care for kids with natural and curly hair. Finally, in Part 6, I give you some extra bonus content and also boil down the book into very small chunks of information. Go here if you need quick info right away.
Disclaimer: The reader should note that the author of this publication has a paid partnership with RevAir LLC (RevAir) and PDC Brands (Cantu) and a partnership with Techturized, Inc. (Myavana) to promote their respective brands and products on social media, television, and other media sources. The author lists some brands and products from those companies in this book as some of his favorite products.
Icons Used in This Book
Throughout this book, icons in the margins highlight certain types of valuable information that call out for your attention. Here are the icons you encounter and a brief description of each:
The Tip icon calls out bits of insider info you can use to make your hair care easy and extra amazing. It’s like having your own personal hairstylist whispering their best pro tips in your ear.
Remember icons mark the information that’s especially important to know. If you don’t have time to read anything else, look for these icons. They contain all of the must-know stuff.
If I mark something with this icon, the information I give may help you go to the next level in your quest for hair knowledge. But you don’t have to read paragraphs marked with this icon unless you really want to get into the nitty gritty of hair care.
The Warning icon tells you to watch out! Always read whatever information features this icon because it keeps you and your hair safe. This icon calls out things that you should do or shouldn’t do to make sure you don’t damage your (or someone else’s) hair.
Beyond the Book
In addition to the abundance of natural and curly hair information and guidance that I provide in this book, you get access to even more help and information online at Dummies.com. Check out this book’s online Cheat Sheet for quick info on how to grow out your natural hair, to see a list of the most essential styling tools and products, DIY hair care recipes, and more. Just go to www.dummies.com and search for “Natural and Curly Hair For Dummies Cheat Sheet.”
Where to Go from Here
Like I said, this book has something for everyone — which means it probably has something that you don’t need. But the great news is that you don’t have to read everything. For Dummies books are modular, which means each part and the different chapters can stand alone. You don’t have to read the early chapters to understand the later ones. Skip around and go directly to the information you need without wasting time reading stuff you don’t.
If, for example, you’re caring for a child who’s having a hair emergency right now and you need to know how to do a simple ponytail or braids, flip to Chapter 12. If you just need some help picking new products and tools that work for you and your hair, head over to Chapters 7 and 8. If you’re wondering what changes to make to your daily routine to keep your natural and curly hair its happiest, turn to Chapter 5. And if you’re curious about the history, biology, and other basics of natural and curly hair, start with Chapters 1 and 2. So let’s get your natural hair journey started!
Part 1
Embracing Your Natural and Curly Hair
IN THIS PART …
Appreciate the history, beauty, and power of natural and curly hair.
Grasp the basics of hair biology.
Uncover your hair type profile and its characteristics.
Chapter 1
Natural Is Beautiful
IN THIS CHAPTER
Putting an end to natural hair stigma
Examining your beliefs about natural hair
Unleashing the beauty of your natural hair
This chapter is about helping you feel your absolute best. That’s all that matters, as far as I’m concerned. Your hair is an extension of your personality, your energy, your heart. I want you to be able to take care of your hair and style it in all the ways that make you feel like your best self — or help you do that for someone else. This chapter can help you have the healthiest hair possible, as well as the best relationship with your hair.
There are so many reasons we can feel negatively about our hair. People with curly, natural hair have not been seen as a thing of beauty for so long. Black women especially have been conditioned and treated like they are unattractive for having natural hair, and some women have internalized this hatred and adjusted their hair accordingly. A client of mine recently pointed out how she and her close friends often feel great pressure to process and straighten their hair due to their experience with men and dating and other negative influences within the community. So many men have been conditioned to want and be attracted to a particular representation of beauty because of the relentless standards set by the media. We have seen straight hair put out as the normal, acceptable standard for so long that it’s shaped entire generations. This, too, is trauma.
Unhealthy beauty standards have been ingrained in Western culture by systems underpinned by totally toxic ideas. But the time has come to heal. You need to reclaim your power and your beauty, and move beyond self-hatred. Refuse to buy into the toxicity. Refuse the negativity and trauma.
This chapter promotes being really honest about who you are and only surrounding yourself with people who see you, support you, and celebrate you. This is your moment. This is the natural and curly haired community’s moment to step into the spotlight.
Smashing the Stigma Surrounding Natural Hair
Okay, look. I don’t want to spend time and energy on what the natural and curly hair community has or doesn’t have. I’m here to focus on building our community up, to help lift us up. That’s how we celebrate ourselves.
But the truth is the truth. Those of us who have natural hair already know it. But maybe you’re someone who doesn’t have textured hair and you’re reading this book to understand a loved one. If you don’t already know, people who have natural and curly hair regularly face discrimination, misunderstandings, and misconceptions about their hair, all based in centuries-old racism that plays out in media, workplaces, and schools, among other institutions.
Unfortunately, you can find so many examples of the systemic discrimination that Black and Afro-Latinidad people who have natural hair face. One national news story that absolutely enraged me when I saw it back in 2019 still stays with me today. Before his wrestling match, a 16-year-old high school student in New Jersey was told by officials that his hair covering didn’t meet “regulation standards.” They presented him with an ultimatum: Cut his dreads or forfeit the match. Without so much as a word from his coach, the athletic director, or any other staff member from his school, he faced the decision alone.
And there, in front of a whole gymnasium of his peers and members of the community, an official cut off his dreadlocks. He went on to win the wrestling match that day, but the humiliation of having his hair carelessly cut off due to policies that do not represent everyone equally may never fade.
This student’s natural state of being was deemed unacceptable and deserving of immediate destruction. And this scenario, in some form or another, plays out in schools and workplaces across the country, literally every day.
How dare they perpetuate this level of hatred and trauma on children — and adults!
The natural and curly hair community faces unfair treatment and downright stupidity from some people and systems. Because these prejudices are so deeply ingrained, society as a whole can find even recognizing them difficult, let alone combating them.
But I’m not going to stop trying. I’m here with this book to do my part in stopping the stigma; in building the natural and curly hair community up; in saying enough to the discrimination from others and the way we internalize it ourselves.
It’s time to stop. And it’s time to heal. And that means everyone.
So, if you need support in your own healing journey, you have it here. And if you’re a parent of a textured-haired child, you need to know the reality of prejudices and racism, and then smash this stigma for your child (or other loved one). Natural and curly hair is beautiful and glorious (see Figure 1-1).
From the moment your child who has textured hair is born (or the moment you become their guardian), celebrate their beautiful hair at every turn. I talk more about how to be your child’s hair advocate in Chapter 11, but that advice is good for all ages.
And if you have natural hair — or you want to wear your hair in its natural state but are fighting against these negative forces — then I’m here to tell you something:
They might be powerful, but you are more powerful!
Photography by Wardell Malloy with crowdMGMT
FIGURE 1-1: Natural and curly hair is versatile and beautiful.
Laying the naysayers to rest
I don’t want to give any attention to the myths that people hold onto, especially because we’ve all dealt with combating them. And frankly, if someone continues to hold onto anything negative, that’s on them.
My best advice is to not pay any attention to people who have anything negative or misinformed to say about natural and curly hair. Of course, if you want to engage and educate others — particularly if they’re coming from a place of honest ignorance — that’s up to you. But my personal advice is to not even waste your time or energy with anyone who’s willfully ignorant or just plain rude.
The best way to lay any myths to rest is to go out and live your best, happiest hair life. Don’t listen to anyone who says you or your child can’t do something with your or their hair. Don’t listen to anyone who tries to make you or your child feel inferior. Never forget that textured hair grows beautifully out of the scalp the way it’s meant to.
Embracing today’s changing attitudes
Attitudes toward hair texture are gradually changing for the better. Natural hair is seeing a golden age right now, where it’s represented and presented in the proper light. More products and tools specifically for natural and curly hair are available in retail stores nationwide.
Even while the media celebrates and spotlights others copying natural hairstyles, the bias still persists. I mean, we still see stories in the news on the regular that report about school officials not allowing students to wear natural or protective styles, like the one I share in the section “Smashing the Stigma Surrounding Natural Hair,” earlier in this chapter.
But you can also see individual and mass efforts — amplified by social and other broadcast media — to dismantle these discriminatory policies.
At the forefront of a legislative effort is the CROWN Act, created by the CROWN Coalition and passed into law first in the state of California in 2019. CROWN stands for Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair. The CROWN Act works to “ensure protection against discrimination towards race-based hairstyles by extending statutory protection to hair texture and protective styles, such as braids, locs, twists, and knots in the workplace and public schools.”
Although the CROWN Act was recognized in California and followed by many other states, I personally feel we should all do our job to support this movement to pass the law on a federal level so that this discrimination against hair can be dismantled once and for all (see Figure 1-2).
© elnariz/Adobe Stock
FIGURE 1-2: Natural hair has a place in all workplaces.
Understanding Your Own Natural Hair History
Because this country has exhibited so much discrimination towards natural and textured hair throughout its history, people can harbor generational trauma around their hair. I talk more about this in Chapter 11. As a hair stylist, I’ve seen it all. Children who can’t sit through hours of washing or braiding because their guardians are too rough for their tender heads. Grown adults who still flinch when it comes to certain tools because they experienced so much pain when they were younger. People of all ages constantly feeling shame or pressure to change their hair in some way that doesn’t feel quite right or acceptable to them.
Many of my adult clients struggle with the fact that they were raised being told that their natural hair was not good hair. This could mean people told them in words. Or maybe their parents made girls get their hair straightened to “look better” to society. I have multiple clients who have clear memories of getting their hair straightened by using a hot comb every week for church so that it would look “presentable” — as though their natural hair wasn’t.
In these ways, many Black and Afro-Latina women have hair-related trauma stemming from their childhood, which unconsciously taught them to hate something about their hair. This unconscious negativity can make you feel less than, and you don’t even realize it.
And then those girls grow up and pass on the same hair trauma or prejudices to their own children. I remember one of my clients saying she caught herself commenting on her daughter’s edges, wanting them to lay down as flat and straight as possible. For what? For some outside beauty standard that’s based on the idea that what you have isn’t good enough? It was a moment of awareness for my client, and she’s working through it to heal so that she can better herself and her child.
Don’t get me wrong; I don’t hate straight hair. I love all hair types. I love helping people achieve straight hair in healthy and successful ways if that’s what they want. (I give you some tips and tricks for straightening your hair in Chapters 8 and 9 of this book.) But I take issue with the fact that, so often, straight hair is deemed beautiful, but curly and natural hair isn’t. Newsflash: It’s all beautiful! And I’m here to help you embrace whatever style you want (see Figure 1-3).
© Svitlana/Adobe Stock
FIGURE 1-3: Wear your afro (or whatever style you want) with pride!
Getting Comfortable with Your Natural Hair
If you’re just starting to transition away from a relaxer or another chemical process to grow your hair out into its natural state, congratulations! I know changes can sometimes be tricky, but I’m here to help you through it. Whether you’re going to get the big chop (cutting all the processed hair off to start fresh, which you can read more about in Chapter 3), or simply stop using relaxers and let your strands gradually grow out, I’m here to support you through all the in-between stages while you get to where you’re going.
You may find it exciting to see what emerges while you let your locs do their own thing. I go into detail in Chapter 3, but here are a few tips to get started now. You can make it a great experience by
Giving yourself grace and patience to trust the process: Some days will be more challenging than others, but it’s a learning process.
Spending quality time with your hair every day: Try new products and tools to see what your hair responds to the best.
Taking note of the hairstyles that other people are wearing: What do you like? What makes you feel happy? Again, not everything looks the same on every person or works the same way, but you can use this time to try anything you want.
Accessorizing: Try out different scarves, turbans, headbands, or clips.
Joining groups online or in real life where you can celebrate natural hair, as well as trade hair care tips and tricks
If you need a big chop, or you simply want some professional insight and ideas, book an appointment for a consultation and/or cut with a professional hairstylist. We can provide you with a huge asset and support while you grow out your hair and discover more about your unique strands. If you need a little guidance on selecting a stylist, check out Chapter 6.
Learning the vocabulary
The language of natural and curly hair evolves every day. New styles, trends, and techniques emerge all the time, and so does how we talk about natural and curly hair. You may already know and use a bunch of these terms, but if you’re just starting out and need to get up to speed on the basics, check out this quick starter vocabulary list:
Big chop:
Cutting your hair very short to remove any processed hair and start fresh to grow out your natural hair.
Co-wash:
When you use conditioner instead of shampoo to wash your hair.
Curl pattern:
The natural shape of your hair strands.
Elasticity:
Your hair’s ability to return to its natural shape after you manipulate it, such as pulling, stretching, or heating it.
Morning routine:
What you do to your hair every morning after you wake up to get ready for the day. You might spend every morning moisturizing or hydrating, co-washing, and/or styling. See
Chapter 5
for more on getting your routine set.
Naturalista:
Someone who’s proud of their natural hair. They thrive on keeping it in its natural state without straightening, perming, or using chemicals or excessive heat.
Nighttime routine:
Similar to your morning routine, except you get your hair ready for bed by massaging your scalp, moisturizing, setting, and covering it with a scarf. You can find more on that in
Chapter 5
, as well.
Porosity:
How well your hair can absorb and retain moisture. Turn to
Chapter 2
for how you can test your hair’s porosity at home.
Slip:
Lubricating products, such as conditioners, that make moving combs or fingers through your hair much easier and without friction.
Transitioning:
When you stop applying relaxer to your strands and start growing out your natural hair, gradually trimming off the processed ends of your hair.
Twist out:
Unlike braids, for a twist out, you twist two sections of hair together, rather than a braid’s three. When you take twists down, the resulting twist out creates either a loose wavy pattern or tighter curls, depending on the number and size of the twists. You can choose from many variations of twist outs. Visit
Chapter 9
for more.
Wash-and-go:
When you style your hair using only your hands or wet brush and product after you wash it and let it air dry. Visit
Chapter 9
for more on wash-and-go’s.
Wash day:
The day you wash your hair. For natural hair, wash day comes around about every seven to ten days. I cover all the ins and outs of making the most of wash day in
Chapter 4
.
Characterizing hair types
Hair type is the actual curl pattern that you see when you look at your hair. Types go from 1 to 4. The lower the number, the looser the curl pattern. The higher the number, the tighter the curl pattern. Also, each number is paired with a letter that describes the width of your hair. In this book, I talk about Types 2c to 4c.
The reason we talk about hair types and textures so much is because every type and texture (hair texture is how your hair feels when you touch it, such as coarse, thick, fine) needs slightly different hair care and styling to feel and look its best. As a stylist, I know what someone who has 3c hair needs to help their curls come alive and how their needs are different from someone who has 4c hair. The hair care profession has made everything nuanced and specific because we’ve figured out so much over time. Determining your (or your loved one’s) hair type can help you source the right products, tools, and techniques for your personal strands.
To figure out your hair type, flip to Chapter 3.
And now, a word. Or maybe several.
I recognize that some people don’t feel comfortable with this system because it puts the least-textured hair first on the list and the most-textured hair at the end of the list. But you can choose to start your healing right here. If this hair typing system bothers you, you can simply not use it and not pay it any attention. For me, the system makes sense, and provides direction and organization for hair care, so I’ll leave it at that.
When it comes down to it, the hair typing system is all perspective. And if you don’t like it, I encourage you to try not to let others determine your thoughts and opinions. Take control over what you want for your hair and life. That’s what true healing means.
Putting some thought into your style
When it comes to styling your natural and curly hair, I want to encourage you to really take time to think, observe, and sit with what you want. Your hairstyle is about you, and you alone. Do what makes you happy.
If you don’t know where to start in choosing a new style, do what I do sometimes when I’m working on a new design for a client or upcoming photo shoot. Go out and look around at what others are doing:
Go to the bookstore or newsstand, and look at hair magazines to see what’s looking fresh.
Google the latest hair trends.
Check out social media and see what your favorite influencers are doing.
Refer to
Chapters 9
and
10
in this book for hair styling ideas.
All of these methods can give you great ways to find inspiration and ideas for your own personal style.
Also, really stop and consider how others impact you. If “I woke up like this” is your theme song and daily mantra, do whatever you want to, haters or not. But if you know a weird look, shady side eye, or whisper will bother you, this is the time to think through that and choose something that won’t make you feel small. Instead, do what makes you feel comfortable. Your hairstyle should make you feel proud, self-assured, and free no matter where you are (see Figure 1-4).
© Getty Images/John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
FIGURE 1-4: A quick and easy workplace style.
In addition to getting in tune with what your heart wants, also consider certain logistics and practicalities, such as how much time and effort you want to spend on your hair. If you have a lot of time or don’t mind a commitment to daily upkeep, go for that higher maintenance style. But if you’re pressed for time in the mornings or don’t have the resources for weekly salon visits, keep it on the simple side. You might also want to ponder what your local climate is like. Is it humid and hot? Dry and cold? Make sure to take that into consideration when choosing a style and the care that goes with it. Visit Chapter 6 for more on how the environment can impact your hair.
Just remember: The world is your oyster. Everyone finds figuring out new things a little hard at first, but that doesn’t mean you’re not up for the challenge. The more you practice creating a specific style, the easier it becomes. I applaud you for trying new things and embracing your hair in all its glory.
Keeping your hair in tip-top shape
All beautiful and healthy hair starts with the right care and maintenance. Everyone’s hair is unique, so you have to experiment to find a routine that’s perfect for you. What works for your friend or cousin, or even your sister, may not work for you, but all great hair care routines include a few basic steps:
Wash day:
The day you wash your hair, and it typically takes hours. You need to set aside a full day usually to give proper attention to your locs. I run through this wash-day routine in detail in
Chapter 4
.
Morning and nighttime routine:
I cover these routines in more detail in
Chapter 5
, but here’s the bottom line: You typically need a daily routine that’s split up between the morning and evening. In the morning, you style and protect your hair from the elements. At night, you need to keep your strands protected from sleeping and prime them for the next day.
Protective styling:
You can use many styles to protect your hair from constant touching and the climate to keep it healthy.
Considering the best tools and products
All great hair care and styling requires the right tools and products. But with so many brands out there, how do you know what to get? It can take some time to figure out what your (or your child’s) hair specifically needs. On top of that, you may find it tricky to determine which products and tools truly work. Companies make all kinds of claims to get you to buy their products, but how can you tell which ones are legit?
In this book, I devote two full chapters to this topic: Chapters 7 and 8. If you need product recommendations and reviews, feel free to skip straight there now.
I know it can seem like you have to acquire a lot of tools and products at first, especially if you’re new to the curly or natural game, but just start with a few tools. Then add more along the way. Just go slowly and try things out. Some tools and products won’t feel right or do what you want. So get rid of them (or give them to someone else to try). When you find something that makes your hair feel and look how you want, keep it.
You can also ask around to your friends and family members to see what they like. You don’t get a guarantee that what works for them will work for you, but it at least gives you a good way to find things to try. Just keep an open mind and don’t get discouraged.
Today’s retail stores are more fully stocked than ever with multiple products and tools for natural and curly hair — plus, the Internet gives you a never-ending treasure trove of options.
If you need somewhere to start, here’s my list of basic tools that you should have in your hair care and styling collection:
Brushes:
You need one to detangle and one to dry. If you want one that does both, you can look into paddle brushes, but they don’t necessarily work well for all hair types and texture.
Wide-tooth comb:
Perfect for detangling and separating your hair.
Fine-tooth comb:
