Natural Wines of Hungary E-Book

Kristian Kielmayer

• Herausgeber: WS
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 179

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

Natural Wines of Hungary is a guide for curious wine lovers and professionals alike, offering a clear and engaging exploration of natural winemaking. The first part of the book unpacks the foundations of natural wine—from vineyard practices to cellar decisions—explaining what makes a wine "natural" and why it matters. The second part brings readers face to face with Hungarian producers who embody these principles, sharing their stories, challenges, and triumphs.

With a storytelling approach grounded in professional insight, this book navigates the what, how, and why of natural wines while highlighting Hungary’s unique contribution to the global natural wine movement. Richly illustrated and thoughtfully written, it invites readers on a sensory and intellectual journey into a world where nature, craft, and authenticity meet in the glass.

Leseprobe

Natural Wines of Hungary

The people, the place, the wines

Kristian Kielmayer

Natural Wines of Hungary

The people, the place, the wines

Copyright: Kristian Kielmayer 2025

Publisher: Kristian Kielmayer e. v.

www.kristiankielmayer.com

Email: [email protected]

Editor: Kristian Kielmayer

Photography

Page 35, 117 (Kristian Kielmayer portrait): Balázs Szmodits (Winelovers)

Page 84 (P.A.N.K. portrait): Ferenc Dancsecs

Page 93 (Sziegl portrait): Sziegl Winery

All rights reserved!

The author has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this book but assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or any consequences arising from its use.

ISBN 978-615-02-3677-3

Technical editor: Ildikó Szalay

Proofreader: Gabriella Szabó

Professional proofreader: Attila Petzold

Book cover, illustration and layout design: Angela Feher

Printing: Aduprint Publishing and Printing Ltd.

Responsible Manager: Dr. Zoltán Tóth

For my wife, without whom this book would not have been possible.

Content

Introduction

Nature, Science and the Art of Wine 

Natural wine: a history in the making 

Viticulture: organic principles 

The art of natural winemaking: techniques and transparency 

Fermentation: the art and science of transformation 

Sulfur dioxide: protector or problem? 

Filtering and fining in winemaking 

Geographical indications and wine; does it matter? 

The science of taste and tasting in natural winemaking: a multisensory journey 

The balance of faults and characters in natural wines 

The three rules of food and wine pairing; try them with your favourite natural wines 

Brewing stories: the art and science of specialty coffee 

The People, The Place, The Wines: The Storytellers of Hungarian Natural Wine

5 Ház Borbirtok Weingartner Olivér– Tradition meets innovation in the heart of Somló 

Abeles, Imre Halász – The visionary natural winemaker 

Bálint Barcza – Listening to the volcanic mountain 

István Bencze – The symphony of nature 

Balázs Capári – The winemaking journey 

Márk Egly – Reviving Sümeg’s wine legacy with passion 

Horst Hummel – From law to wine 

Kristinus Wine Estate – A bold step into biodynamics 

Bálint Losonci– The trailblazer in Mátra 

Levente Major– Viking spirit with artistic vision 

Gyula Pálffy– The guardian of the Káli Basin 

P.A.N.K.– A rebel with roots in the Káli Basin 

Zsolt Sándor – The craftsman of Bükk 

Somló Kincse– László Andrási, the guardian of Somló’s treasures 

Sziegl Winery – Balázs and Petra: reviving tradition in Hajós 

Szóló Winery– Let the grapes speak for themselves 

Tomcsányi Estate– A story of passion, nature and Somló 

Turay Family Winery– The family winemaking journey 

Unger Bormanufaktúra – A passionate venture in Kőszeg 

Wassmann Winery– Wines crafted with heart and nature 

Weninger Winery– A dialogue between nature, culture and wine 

Péter Wetzer – Independent winemaker 

About the Author 

Bibliography 

Introduction

First of all, thank you for buying my book and showing interest in the wonderful and exciting world of natural wines. Writing this book has been an exciting process, journey, and I hope to share my passion for natural wines — especially those of Hungary — with you.

Was there a distinct moment, a special visit, or a unique wine that sparked my interest in natural wines? In my case, there wasn’t really a singular moment, place, or wine — it was more of a process. It gradually grew on me. I have always been drawn to wines that tell a story, wines that speak of their place and the people who craft them. I see myself as a curious person, someone who loves to learn and understand the connection between nature and the people who shape the beverage we appreciate.

I also love discovering exciting aromas, flavours, and textures — wines that challenge conventions, rattle the taste buds and expand sensory experiences. Natural wines, at times misunderstood, captivated me not just for their taste, but also for their role in promoting a healthier ecosystem. The philosophy of working with the land, using minimal additives, and respecting nature in winemaking is something I deeply admire.

Their distinct character and unconventional nature have always fascinated me. Natural wines can be surprising — sometimes wild, raw and untamed — and tell a story of origin and maker. This unpredictability makes them intriguing. Furthermore, the minimal intervention philosophy aligns with my belief, that wine should be guided, not forced; it’s a delicate balance between nature and human skill, between art and science.

Hungary has an official legal definition of natural wine, outlined in the Decree 26/2021. (VII. 29.) AM. This regulatory framework provides clarity in a world, where the definition of natural wine is often open to interpretation.

However, beyond legal definitions, my understanding of natural wine aligns with the following key principles: organic vineyard practices, minimal intervention in the cellar, and a commitment to preserving the inherent signature and quality of the grapes. For example, minimal and thoughtful sulphur usage, low intervention not just in terms of filtering and fining, and transparency in winemaking are core tenets. To provide clarity, each winemaker featured in this book includes a summary of their practices — whether they add SO₂, if they fine or filter their wines, and other relevant details.

The area of organic production is increasing in Hungary, with more producers obtaining certification. Beyond vineyard practices, I believe that winemaking itself plays a crucial role. It is not just about working organically in the vineyard; it is about translating the essence of a place through the grape, fermenting it into a message that conveys more than just quality — it tells a deeper story. A truly great wine should evoke a sense of place, inviting you to visit the vineyard and meet the people behind it.

This book introduces Hungarian natural winemakers, and explores the scientific and philosophical foundations of natural wine. The book is divided into two sections:

the first part lays out the cornerstones of natural winemaking, including history, viticulture, oenology, and sensory analysis. It also draws parallels with other beverages — close to my heart — such as specialty coffee, which shares a similar ethos. Although this section touches on scientific research, it does not claim to be exhaustive; rather, it aims to spark curiosity and encourage further exploration.

The second part delves into the people, places, and wines of Hungary’s natural wine scene. These are producers, whom I have visited and whose wines I have tasted on numerous occasions. Hungary’s natural wine movement is dynamic and evolving, with compelling personalities and diverse terroirs that shape its identity. Approaching these wines with an open mind can truly transform one’s sensory experience.

I like to say there are two kinds of people: those who already drink natural wine regularly and those who don’t, for whatever reason. This book is for both.

For those who love natural wine, further convincing may not be necessary. Yet, I believe, that deepening one’s knowledge, enhances both confidence and enjoyment. Understanding the background, the people and the philosophies behind these wines, enriches the experience of drinking them.

For those who are sceptical, my simple message is: be open-minded.

As with all wines, some natural wines are extraordinary, and some are less impressive — but there is plenty to discover. Over the years, I have had my share of wines I did not initially favour, yet I have remained open to changing my mind. Neuroscience tells us that neuroplasticity — the brain’s ability to rewire itself — is a wonderful thing. Education, experience and exposure can shape our perceptions in ways we never expected.

The growing global interest in natural wine reflects a shift in consumer preferences — people want transparency, authenticity and a connection to the land. This book contributes to that conversation by shining a light on Hungary’s role in the movement. The goal is to educate and inspire both novices and seasoned professionals, offering a fresh perspective on Hungarian natural wines.

Ultimately, I hope that this book deepens your appreciation for Hungarian natural wines. I would like to offer insight into the philosophy behind natural winemaking, introduce you to some of the people, who craft these wines, and inspire you to seek them out for yourself.

Above all, I encourage you to explore with an open mind. Natural wine is a journey — one that is full of surprises, challenges, and discoveries.

As always, enjoy responsibly, and embrace the wonderful world of natural wines!

Nature, Science and the Art of Wine

Natural wine: a history in the making

When discussing natural wine from a historical perspective, I like to believe that the earliest wines resembled the notion of naturalness. Or am I being overly romantic, stretching history too far? Let’s explore this journey together!

The birth of wine: a natural beginning

Wine’s origins trace back to the cradles of early civilisation, where a unique interplay of environment, curiosity and chance gave birth to one of humanity’s oldest fermented beverages. The Caucasus region, particularly modern-day Georgia, provides compelling evidence of early winemaking. Pottery fragments from 8,000 years ago contain tartaric acid residues, a hallmark of grape fermentation. This discovery suggests that winemaking began as a natural process — grapes, exposed to wild and ambient yeasts, spontaneously transformed into wine without human intervention. Patrick McGovern’s work is particularly significant in uncovering the ancient roots of winemaking and shedding light on its natural origins.

In ancient societies, wine was much more than a drink. It played a central role in rituals and ceremonies, signifying life, death, and the sacred. Armenia’s Areni-1 cave, the world’s oldest known winery, offers profound insight into early winemaking practices. Grapes were trodden, juice was collected in clay vats, and wine jars were buried as part of funerary rites. These early methods resonate with today’s natural wine ethos, emphasising untainted processes, driven by native yeasts and minimal intervention.

Wine as a sacred elixir

Wine has evolved over millennia from a drink to a holy elixir, a uniting agent in spirituality and community. Whereas beer was more common in Mesopotamia, wine represented refinement and status. Reserved for the elite, it appeared in extravagant feasts and holy offerings. Reflecting its importance in society, the Code of Hammurabi governed wine taverns.

As Brian Muraresku notes in The Immortality Key, wine was fundamental to the Eleusinian Mysteries of ancient Greece, allowing participants to commune with the divine. Later, it became essential to Christian ceremonies, symbolising Christ’s blood in the Eucharist — a custom that still inspires spiritual contemplation and strengthens social ties. Wine has united people, inspired respect, and remained a great social and spiritual emblem across cultures.

Industrialisation and the transformation of wine

The Industrial Revolution transformed winemaking from an agricultural craft to a controlled, industrialised process. Fertilisers, cultured yeasts, and sugar additions became commonplace, standardising production while changing traditional practices. Fertilisers increased yields, but they also homogenised flavours, reducing terroir expression. Cultured yeasts, while depend­able, decreased diversity and introduced an “industrial” flavour profile.

Chaptalisation, the addition of sugar to must, became popular in the nineteenth century, especially in cooler climates. While it addressed ripening issues, critics claimed it diluted the authenticity of wines. These innovations, prioritising efficiency and marketability, margin­alised the wine’s natural roots. This industrialisation sparked a backlash, culminating in the late 20th-century natural wine movement, which sought to reclaim authenticity through minimal intervention and respect for tradition.

These innovations prioritised efficiency and marketability, serving expanding global markets. However, they often marginalised the wine’s connection to its natural roots, diluting its authenticity. By the late 20th century, this industrialisation spurred a backlash, as winemakers sought to reclaim traditional practices. The modern natural wine movement emerged from this resistance, embracing minimal intervention and reconnecting wine to its origins.

Rediscovering naturalness in the 20th century

In Beaujolais, Jules Chauvet led the way, combining scientific knowledge with organic farming to reject synthetic interventions. He influenced several winemakers, who revived spontaneous fermentation and low-sulfite practices.

By the 1980s, natural wines had made their way into Parisian wine bars, influencing wine­makers throughout France and beyond. By the 21st century, natural wine had become a global phenomenon, celebrated for its simplicity and connection to terroir. This resurgence reflected a philosophical connection to wine’s origins, emphasising the alchemy of grape to glass.

Natural wine in Hungary

Hungary’s natural wine scene has flourished since the 2000s, with influential figures like Terroir Club fostering an appreciation for authentic wines. International events, and festivals like Karakterre and RAW Wine, introduced Hungarian winemakers to the global natural wine movement. The influence from neighbouring countries, such as Austria, Slovakia and Serbia, has undeniably left a significant mark on the Hungarian producers as well.

The Natúr Sümeg, now known as the “Ez Natúr” festival, launched in 2021, showcases Hungarian and Carpathian Basin producers, emphasising natural winemaking. Legislative developments such as Hungary’s Decree 26/2021 (VII. 29.) of the Ministry of Agriculture (AM) have embedded the term “natúr” into the legal framework, covering categories like pét-nat and natural wines.

Viticulture:organic principles

Hungarian regulations mandate, that natural wine must originate from certified organic production, and must undergo hand-harvesting, and the winery must also hold an organic certification. While this book includes producers, some of whom may lack certification for various reasons, they still adhere to the principles of organic production.

Without delving into exhaustive details, let’s examine the key elements of organic production.

Attachment

Soil is everything

Soil is not something we can create ourselves; nature does that for us. Organic matter forms the foundation of healthy soil, resulting from the decomposition of plants, animals, and microbial residues into nutrient-rich humus. It enhances soil structure, improves water retention, and provides essential nutrients for plant growth while fostering a thriving ecosystem of beneficial microorganisms. Sustainable practices like composting, vermicomposting and, cover cropping help build organic matter, ensuring long-term soil fertility and productivity.

Organic soil management in grapevine cultivation focuses on building soil fertility through natural practices while prohibiting synthetic inputs that harm soil health. Techniques such as composting, applying green manure (e.g., legumes) and, cover cropping enrich organic matter, prevent erosion and enhance soil structure. Nutrient management includes the careful use of composted animal manure, plant-based residues and natural minerals, such as dolomite and gypsum—all of which promote sustainable fertility without the risks associated with synthetic fertilisers.

But what are synthetic fertilisers? Think of them as junk food for the soil. They provide limited and quick nutrients (e.g. ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride), but harm the soil’s health over time by disrupting natural microbial activity and reducing organic matter.

Weeds have no value

Weeds compete with grapevines for essential resources like water, nutrients and sunlight — critical for healthy vine development. This competition reduces vine vigour, lowers grape yields and, fosters challenges, such as invasive weed species or humid microclimates, that encourage fungal diseases. Imagine weeds as “thieves”, stealing food and water from grapevines.

To combat these “thieves”, organic growers use environmentally friendly strategies. Manual or mechanical weed removal is common, while grazing livestock can naturally clear weeds and, add organic manure to the soil. Cover crops, such as rye and clover, outcompete weeds, improve soil structure and add nitrogen through natural processes.

The visitor

Nutrient management

The principles of nutrient management in organic viticulture focus on maintaining soil fertility and creating a balanced environment for vine health. Organic manures (both green and animal-based) and compost enhance soil structure and aeration while boosting microbial and fungal activity. Compost also improves the soil’s capacity to retain water, ensuring that essential nutrients and minerals are available for the vines.

Natural minerals like rock phosphate supply phosphorus for root growth, while dolomite contributes magnesium and calcium for photosynthesis and cell wall development. Biochar, another sustainable amendment, improves soil carbon content, increases nutrient retention and supports beneficial microbes. These practices maintain healthy and productive vineyard ecosystems without synthetic fertilisers or herbicides.

In organic viticulture, soil isn’t just a growing medium — it’s a living system. Managing it responsibly through organic methods supports sustainability, healthier vines and better-quality grapes.

Those pesky diseases: a balanced approach

Managing pests and diseases in organic viticulture requires a careful balance between human intervention and nature’s systems. The core philosophy is prevention through environmentally friendly practices, often referred to as “controlled control”. These strategies aim to protect the vines, preserve the health of the surrounding ecosystem, and ensure long-term sustainability.

Prevention

Prevention is the cornerstone of organic vineyard management. Techniques, such as canopy management and pruning, are crucial for maintaining ecological balance. By optimising air circulation and light exposure, growers can reduce humidity levels, creating an environment less favourable for fungal infections like powdery and downy mildew, as well as grey mould. Buffer zones play a vital role by separating organic and non-organic vineyards, minimising cross-contamination risks. Beyond their protective function, these areas provide habitats for birds and beneficial insects, which help control pests naturally, while reducing soil erosion and pesticide drift.

Organic viticulture relies heavily on biological and natural control measures to manage pests and diseases. Natural predators, such as ladybirds, predatory mites and parasitic wasps, effectively reduce populations of pests like aphids, spider mites and moth larvae. Plant-based treatments, such as neem oil and orange oil, offer a natural solution to soft-bodied pests, while mulching with cover crops, such as mustard, not only suppresses nematodes but also enriches the soil. Another innovative technique is pheromone disruption, which confuses pests like moths, interrupting their mating cycles and preventing infestations. Additionally, microbial inoculants, containing beneficial fungi and bacteria, are sometimes introduced to the soil to suppress soil-borne pathogens, further enhancing pest management efforts. At the heart of this approach is the concept of “living soil,” where diverse microbial communities and soil organisms, such as worms, contribute to nutrient cycling, organic matter decomposition, and the overall vitality of the vineyard.

Copper and sulfur, the traditionalists

Copper and sulfur remain the traditional cornerstones of organic disease management, particularly for fungal infections. Copper, used as a fungicide, is permitted under strict legal limits — typically 4 kg/ha annually in the European Union — but its environmental impact is a topic of ongoing debate due to potential soil accumulation and harm to microbial life. To address these concerns, some growers are exploring innovative alternatives, such as using reduced amounts of copper, combined with extracts from plants like wormwood or peppermint, and even algae-based treatments. These alternatives aim to reduce reliance on copper while maintaining effective control of fungal infections. Sulfur, on the other hand, continues to be a widely accepted and effective solution for controlling powdery mildew, often applied as a dust or wettable formulation for even coverage.

Despite these measures, organic farming faces unique challenges. For example, frequent pest control applications may require more trips into the vineyard, increasing the risk of soil compaction, which is caused by machinery. This can disrupt soil structure and microbial activity, posing a threat to soil health. To mitigate this, organic growers often use lighter equipment or plan interventions carefully to minimise their environmental footprint. Moreover, timing is critical in organic disease management, as natural treatments, such as sulfur and essential oils, may need to be reapplied frequently to ensure effectiveness while avoiding unnecessary impact on the vineyard ecosystem.

Its about the raw material

Hand harvest, a social gathering

While organic viticulture permits mechanical harvest, Hungarian legislation on natural wine requires hand harvesting. Objectively, both methods have their pros and cons. Generally speaking, manual harvesting aligns more closely with the principles of organic production by minimising berry damage, reducing the presence of non-grape materials (MOG), and ­preserving whole clusters, when required.

Modern, lightweight machines have been developed to reduce soil compaction and perform precise operations, making them more compatible with sustainable practices. Yet, there is also a cultural aspect, which is undeniable: the human touch, from the grape to the production facility, adds to the traditional and artisanal character of hand harvesting.

In an ideal world, hand harvesting offers several advantages beyond its cultural significance. It helps to avoid soil compaction, allows careful selection of clusters and berries, and reduces the risk of berry damage and juice loss (e.g. oxidation). These benefits make hand harvesting not only a method of physical care but also a practice, that honours both the environmental and artisanal principles, underlying organic and natural wine production.

Biodynamic, the complete harmony

There are a number of viticulture practices, and based on the content of this book, it would not be complete to discuss viticulture without introducing biodynamics. Some say, that while organic viticulture focuses on the soil “looking down to the ground,” biodynamics takes a broader view by “looking up to the stars”. Biodynamics views the vineyard as a living organism, aiming for harmony between nature and agriculture at a spiritual and ecological level.

Organic farming is like maintaining a healthy diet by eating natural, whole foods and avoiding artificial additives. Biodynamic farming, however, is like combining that healthy diet with yoga, meditation, wearing a smart ring, and aligning your meals with certain rhythms to balance your body, mind and spirit holistically.

Biodynamic viticulture is a holistic and sustainable farming method, that views the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem, integrating agricultural practices with natural rhythms and cosmic forces. Rooted in the teachings of Rudolf Steiner in 1924, this approach emphasises harmony between soil, plants, animals and the environment. While it shares similarities with organic farming, biodynamics goes further by incorporating specific preparations, lunar cycles, and a philosophy of interconnectedness.

At its core, biodynamic farming focuses on soil vitality and vine health. Preparations like BD500 (horn manure) and BD501 (horn silica) are applied to the vineyard to enhance microbial activity, improve nutrient cycling and stimulate photosynthesis. These substances, made from fermented cow manure or crushed quartz, are believed to infuse the soil and vines with life energy, promoting balance and resilience. Compost, enriched with biodynamic treatments like chamomile, nettle, and yarrow, further supports soil fertility.