Overlockers and Overlocking E-Book

Lorna Knight

• Herausgeber: Crowood
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Beschreibung

Overlockers do so much more than just join seams and neaten edges. With this practical book by your side, you will learn to make full use of your machine so that your sewing projects become easier and quicker to make. With helpful tips and troubleshooting advice throughout, it shows you how to make full use of your machine and how to enjoy the overlocking.

Leseprobe

First published in 2021 by The Crowood Press Ltd Ramsbury, Marlborough Wiltshire SN8 2HR

www.crowood.com

This e-book first published in 2021

© Lorna Knight 2021

All rights reserved. This e-book is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of this text may be a direct infringement of the author’s and publisher’s rights, and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly.

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 1 78500 791 0

Acknowledgements I would like to thank my many students who, over the years, have provided me with the opportunity to learn about overlockers through the problems they have experienced with them. Thanks also to Mike Terry for the use of a blind hemmer and Phil Langford for his photography advice and equipment. Most of all, I'd like to thank my long-suffering husband, Stephen, for taking the photographs and for the support he has given me through the whole process.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION1OVERLOCKERS EXPLAINED2TOOLS, EQUIPMENT AND MAINTENANCE3THREADING AND STITCHING - THE BASICS4STITCHES EXPLAINED5CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES6TROUBLESHOOTING

APPENDIX 1: FABRICS

APPENDIX 2: STITCH REFERENCE CHART

INFORMATION ON MANUFACTURERS AND SUPPLIERS

GLOSSARY

INDEX

INTRODUCTION

I bought my first overlocker over twenty-five years ago and at that time I had no idea about the amazing world it would open up for me. I was spending my evenings and weekends making and selling children's clothes but soon realized I had to improve the finish on the inside of these garments. French seams, which enclosed the raw edges, were great for straight seams but I needed something else to produce a more professional, less home-made finish on curves and armholes so I bought an overlocker (or serger, as they are also known).

Within a short time I started to discover the great potential of these machines and by adjusting the tension settings, moving needles and playing with decorative threads they had so much more to offer than just seam-making.

In this book, using photographs and simple explanations, I hope to demystify an often maligned machine and demonstrate how it can take your creativity to a new level. By understanding how your overlocker works it will become a more useful tool and you will learn how to get the most from it. Above all, I want to share my enthusiasm and encourage everyone to have a go.

Overlockers – A Brief History

Overlockers have been used to manufacture clothing for decades and came about to deal with the new synthetic, stretch fabrics which were developed last century. When home dressmakers started using these materials, and discovered their sewing machines had difficulty coping with them, the demand for a domestic version rose. Today's home overlockers are now very sophisticated and many include features to make threading easy and sewing a pleasure. A more recent addition to the overlocking family is the coverstitch machine which is useful for hemming garments made from stretchy, knit fabric. These may be bought as stand-alone machines or as combination overlocker/coverstitch models.

How To Use This Book

I have shown a variety of overlocker brands and models in this book so that you will be able to recognize how to set your own machine and learn how to use a range of different stitches and techniques. Even if your own model is not included, with the help of your manual it should be easy to see how to recreate the appropriate settings on your overlocker because you will understand how it works.

This book explains how overlockers work and how to use accessories for specific techniques. It gives helpful tips and troubleshooting advice, along with ideas to inspire your own creativity and a fabric guide that will help you to choose appropriate stitches and settings for the materials and projects being sewn.

CHAPTER ONE

OVERLOCKERS EXPLAINED

What is an Overlocker?

An overlocker (also called a serger) is a machine which sews seams but, unlike a standard sewing machine, uses two needles, two loopers and a blade to do so. An overlocker will never replace your sewing machine but, used wisely, it is a very useful sewing room tool.

Basically, the blade trims the fabric to create a smooth, clean edge; the feed dogs then take the fabric to the needles, which stitch two parallel lines to form a seam and a supporting (or safety) seam. At the same time the upper and lower loopers wrap thread around the raw edge to neaten it.

The blade cuts a neat edge, then the needles and loopers form the seam.

This explains how all overlockers produce stitches but there may be slight variations between models. The main consideration is that understanding how your overlocker works makes it easier to use.

Basic Workings

Although there are differences between models they all have the same recognizable features. Identify the parts listed in this section on your own machine and this will help you to understand how it works.

Overlocker parts.

Thread Stand

Cones or reels of thread are placed here and are reeled off, upwards, before being fed through the guides and eventually down into the needles and loopers. The spindles hold the reels or cones apart and steady so that the resulting stitches are consistent along the edge of the fabric. Various accessories can be used to ensure the thread reels off smoothly without catching or snagging and these will be explained later.

The thread sits on the stand at the rear of the machine.

Tension Dials

These numbered dials may be face on or side on and they control the tension. The thread passes between two internal discs and, depending on the pressure applied by them, these will control the amount of thread reaching the needle. In turn, this will affect the creation of the stitch. If all four dials are set to the same tension then a balanced stitch will be formed. If one or more tension dials are altered (loosened or tightened) the final stitch will not be balanced; this is the case when a rolled hem or flatlock stitch is required.

Tension adjustment varies between models.

Adjusting them is simple: the higher the number the tighter the tension, the lower the number the looser the tension. Often a minor adjustment will be sufficient to improve a stitch and create perfect tension settings.

In contrast, some brands now include air-threading to the loopers for easier and quicker setup and many of the Baby Lock brand of overlockers use an alternative system of feeding thread to the needles and loopers which does not rely on tension dials. For such models there will be preset options with a chart provided for guidance. These factors do not alter the way the stitches are formed but by understanding how your overlocker works you will find it easier to use.

Thread Guides

These hooks, holes and slots guide the thread from cone to needle and looper. Some models have a sophisticated air-threading system, saving time (and frustration), but if they do not, a colour-coded or numbered route is generally printed on the machine itself to help with threading up. The original overlockers were quite fiddly to thread up but most newer models include some time-saving mechanisms, making it quicker and easier to thread correctly.

Hooks, holes, slots and guides show the threading route.

Loopers

There are two loopers (upper and lower) which deliver the thread used for wrapping over the cut edge of the material; they neaten the edge and do not form the actual seam.

The upper (with yellow thread) and lower (with blue thread) loopers work together to wrap the thread over the cut edge.

Blades

If you examine your machine closely, there are actually two blades: these act like scissors. They sit to the right of the needles and a short distance in front. This means the fabric is cut cleanly just before passing the needles and loopers which cover it with overlocked stitches.

There are two different types of blades. On some models, one pair sits on the base next to the needle plate, and they can be dropped down out of use. The other type has one of its blades fixed to a bar above and it can be swung up and out of the way when necessary. Both do the same job although there are pros and cons to each type.

On this style, both blades are fixed to the base with no upper bar.

One blade sits at the base on the edge of the needle plate and the second is attached to an upper bar and rotated into place or up out of the way when required.

The blades must be kept sharp so that they produce a clean-cut edge and, providing they are treated carefully, they are easy to maintain. However, if the blade comes into contact with pins (when they are left in fabric and the blade cuts through them) the blade will become pitted or notched and no longer cut cleanly. In some cases the blade(s) may actually break and it can be expensive to replace them.

Blade Position

On some models the position of the blade can be adjusted slightly to improve the quality of the stitch. To see this in action look at the blade and turn the adjusting dial slowly to see it move to the right and left. This is used when you notice stitches extending beyond the edge of the cloth or when the fabric 'curls' under stitches which are too tight. While it might be assumed that an adjustment to the looper tensions would be the answer, in fact, if the tensions are balanced, just move the blade so that it trims the fabric in a better position.

Blade adjustment.

Needles

Modern overlockers have two needles, although there may be some older models still in use which only have one. With two needles you can sew with both or just one (using the left or right position), making the machine more versatile. You will notice that the needles are not level. This makes it possible for the looper threads to catch both needle threads to form a stitch. If they were both set at the same height, the looper thread would miss the left needle. When replacing needles it is important to push them as high as possible into their holder so that their correct position is maintained. Some models have a tiny viewing window to show the top of the needle is positioned correctly.

The left needle sits higher than the right one.

The manual will state the appropriate needles to use with each model and these are generally domestic needles, with a flat edge on the barrel (not round-barrelled industrial needles). 'Universal' needles are often recommended by the manufacturer but some brands suggest using 'overlocker' needles. Occasionally other types are used for particular projects, threads or fabrics, for example microtex, metallic and topstitch.

Feed Dogs

There are two sets of feed dogs on an overlocker, unlike a sewing machine which only has one. Their jagged shape allows the machine to control how fabric passes under the foot and needle; by increasing or decreasing the rate of the rear feed dogs, fabric can be pulled through or held back to improve stitch quality. This controls what is termed 'differential feed' and counteracts a fabric's tendency to pucker or stretch.

The feed dogs are in two parts: front and rear.

Differential Feed

The differential feed controls how the fabric advances under the presser foot. The two sets of feed dogs which move the fabric can be set at the same pace (indicated on the dial or lever as 'N' for neutral or '1') or the rear feed dogs can be set to work faster or more slowly. This adjustment is used when sewing a lightweight fabric, which may pucker under a neutral setting, or when stitching a stretchy material, which could spread and become wavy. Increasing or reducing the setting will control the feed of the fabric more appropriately and give a smooth finish.

Differential feed adjustment.

Stitch Pin or Finger

This tiny part is vital in creating a neat stitch right on the edge of fabric, because it supports the cloth while the stitch is being formed. In the model shown in the photograph it looks like an elongated upturned ‘L’. Without it, the threads will pull tight on the fabric, causing it to distort. However, there are times when we want to pull the threads tight over the edge, as in a rolled hem, so for this purpose the stitch pin can be removed. Models vary and there are a number of ways for the stitch pin to be taken out of play. Some are integral and are slid into place or out of the way, while others are separate parts and are removed completely from the mechanism. In other cases a second presser foot or an alternative needle plate is supplied. Check the manual to find out how your particular model works.

The stitch pin, or finger, supports the fabric while it is being covered with stitches.

Presser Foot

The presser foot, just as in a sewing machine, holds fabric in place while it is being stitched. Often there are marks on the front of the presser foot indicating the position of the needles which lie directly behind. This helps to show where the needles will sew and is a useful guide when you are stitching. There are normally additional feet available to help with particular techniques like gathering or piping. Check with the manufacturer if these are available for your model.

Presser feet.

Presser Foot Pressure

If there is a dial to control the presser foot pressure (not all models have these) it is used to improve the way that the fabric passes under the foot. A very lightweight material, like chiffon, requires increased pressure (turn clockwise) to hold it in place during sewing while a thicker, polar fleece needs less weight on it (turn anticlockwise). For best results a fabric should have enough pressure to feed it through without being hindered.

Presser foot pressure dial.

Presser Foot Lever

The take-up lever raises and lowers the presser foot. When down, the tension discs close around the thread so that the stitch is formed correctly. When raised, the discs open and the threads can be pulled through easily. The position of the presser foot lever may vary between models.