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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
Taste Real Home-cooked Persian Food for Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner
The most celebrated Persian chef in America, Najmieh Batmanglij brings you her favorite traditional, healthy Persian dishes, simplified for modern American kitchens. Persian Cooking For Dummies, written for cooks of all skill levels will transform the way you cook. Offering more than 100 recipes, some of which can be made in less than an hour, this book will guide you through the art and craft of one of the world’s oldest, yet least known culinary, traditions in the West. These flavors and aromas are rarely replicated in restaurants, so prepare to be wowed by your own creations as you follow these easy guidelines in the warmth and comfort of your own kitchen. The distinctive herbs, the heavenly aromas of saffron and rose water, and the sweet and sour flavors will impress your guests and delight your family.
- Prepare kababs, braises, golden-crusted, tah-dig rice dishes, and delicious desserts
- Learn the tricks and techniques that have been perfected over thousands of years
- Enjoy the unique aromas and flavors of the food of Iran—right in your own home
- Learn the history of Persian cooking and access a glossary of Persian culinary terms
- Many recipes are one page, simple to follow, and take less than an hour to make.
Adapted for today’s lifestyle, Persian Cooking For Dummies is perfect for experienced and novice cooks alike. Take a journey through this exotic cuisine and get cooking, with Dummies.
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Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2022
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Persian Cooking For Dummies®
Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com
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Published simultaneously in Canada
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2022942044
ISBN 978-1-119-87574-1 (pbk); ISBN 978-1-119-87575-8 (ePDF); ISBN 978-1-119-87576-5 (epub)
Persian Cooking For Dummies®
To view this book's Cheat Sheet, simply go to www.dummies.com and search for “Persian Cooking For Dummies Cheat Sheet” in the Search box.
Table of Contents
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Introduction
About This Book
Foolish Assumptions
Icons Used in This Book
Beyond the Book
Where to Go from Here
Part 1: Getting Started with Persian Cooking
Chapter 1: Exploring Persian Culture through Food
Going Back to the Beginning
Eating Persian-Style
Chapter 2: Tools of the Trade
Pots and Pans
Knives and Other Cutting Tools
Other Miscellaneous Tools
Kitchen Appliances
Chapter 3: Shopping for Essential Ingredients
Meat, Poultry, and Fish
Dairy and Eggs
Produce
Fats
Pantry Items
Flavorings and Garnishes
Part 2: Getting Comfortable in the Kitchen
Chapter 4: Common Persian Kitchen Techniques
Peeling Away the Unappealing Parts
Cutting Vegetables Like a Pro
Washing and Drying Fresh Herbs
Cleaning and Washing Barberries
Caramelizing Ingredients for Flavor
Toasting Nuts and Noodles
Frying Onions
Making a Mint Garnish
Removing Bitterness
Seeding and Juicing Pomegranates
Soaking Ingredients to Remove Impurities and for Tenderness
Making Kabobs Sizzle
Smoking Vegetables
Making and Using Ghee
Making Panir
Making and Thickening Yogurt
Chapter 5: Using Staple Ingredients in Persian Dishes
Adjusting Seasoning to Taste
Understanding the Five Basic Tastes
Digging into Common Ingredients in Persian Cooking
Chapter 6: Delicately Spicing the Persian Way
Blooming Saffron
Making Your Own Advieh (Persian Spice Mix)
Cooking with Persian Hogweed
Grinding and Toasting Spices
Chapter 7: Bringing It All Together in a Persian Meal
Sampling Several Persian Menus, for Every Occasion
Jazzing Up the Look of Your Dishes
Part 3: Appetizers and First Courses
Chapter 8: Healthy Yogurt Vegetable Dishes, Salads, and Sides
Chapter 9: Egg-xotic Egg Dishes
Chapter 10: Fill ’er Up! Stuffed Vegetables
Chapter 11: Warm and Hearty Soups and Porridge
Part 4: Main Courses
Chapter 12: Rice Is a Very Nice Dish
Choosing the Right Type of Rice
Washing the Rice
Choosing the Right Pot
Cooking the Rice
Chapter 13: Practicing Patience for Braises
Chapter 14: Sticking It to Kabobs and Roasts
Chapter 15: Savoring Meatballs, Patties, and Casseroles
Chapter 16: Fixing Fish Entrees
Part 5: Side Dishes, Desserts, and Other Delights
Chapter 17: Pickles and Preserves
Chapter 18: Pastries, Sweets, and Candies
Chapter 19: Delicious Desserts
Chapter 20: Breads and Street Food
Chapter 21: Thirst-Quenching Beverages
Part 6: The Part of Tens
Chapter 22: Ten (or So) Time-Saving Tips for the Kitchen
Figure Out the Proper Prep Order
Wash and Chop Herbs
Clean and Wash Barberries
Soak Legumes
Peel Garlic
Cook Crispy Fried Onions in Batches
Store Your Spices Efficiently
Choose the Right Size Pan and Use a Lid
Use a Rice Cooker, Multicooker, Food Processor, and Electric Mixer
Chapter 23: Ten Myths about Persian Cooking
Persian Food Is Different from Iranian Food
Persian Cooking Doesn’t Fit with Modern Cooking Practices
Persian Food Is Only Kabobs
Persian Food Is Unhealthy
Persian Food Is Fattening
Persian Food Doesn’t Look Good
Persian Food Takes Too Long to Cook
Persian Food Is Too Complicated to Make
Persian Food Is Expensive to Make
Persian Restaurants Represent Persian Cooking
Chapter 24: Ten Tips on Persian Table Manners
Eat with a Spoon and Maybe a Fork (not a Knife)
Use Your Hands, Especially with Bone-in Kabobs
Use a Serving Utensil to Pick Up Food from a Communal Plate
Don’t Double-Dip
Don’t Load Up Your plate
Show Appreciation to Your Host
If You Are the Host, Welcome Each Guest Individually and with Respect
Be Grateful to Your Host
Wash Your Hands
Don’t Leave Too Early or Too Late
Appendix: Metric Conversion Guide
Index
About the Author
Supplemental Images
Advertisement Page
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
List of Illustrations
Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: Wrapping a pot lid.
FIGURE 2-2: Braiser.
Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: Peeling a tomato by grating it.
FIGURE 4-2: Cutting butternut squash.
FIGURE 4-3: How to dice an onion.
FIGURE 4-4: Washing barberries.
FIGURE 4-5: Seeding a pomegranate.
FIGURE 4-6: Persian shallots.
FIGURE 4-7: How to make ground hearts of Persian lime.
FIGURE 4-8:
Kashk
.
Chapter 6
FIGURE 6-1: Saffron.
FIGURE 6-2:
Golpar.
Chapter 10
FIGURE 10-1: How to stuff vine leaves.
Chapter 12
FIGURE 12-1: Washing rice by soaking and rinsing it.
Chapter 19
FIGURE 19-1: Making
halva.
Guide
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Table of Contents
Begin Reading
Appendix: Metric Conversion Guide
Index
About the Author
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Introduction
Cooking Persian food is based on a philosophy reaching back to ancient times. Thousands of years ago, Zoroaster elaborated the ancient myth of the twins. One became good; the other, evil. One, the follower of truth; the other, of falsehood. This concept of duality is typically Persian, and it extends beyond moral issues. Persians often balance light and darkness, sweet and sour, hot and cold. The philosophy is both a science and an art. Increasingly, science is discovering links between food and health. And although the ancient Persian system of balance does not eliminate the need for doctors, it is an excellent nutritional adjunct to good health. For Persians, food is medicine. In fact, the word for a spice mix in Persian, advieh, means “medicine.”
These days, you can find Persian kitchen staples at almost every grocery story. For example, recently, I’ve found rose water and pomegranate molasses at my local supermarket! And what’s more, with the Internet, you can complete your Persian pantry with the click of a button. Hooray!
This book is intended for those who are new to Persian food, as well as for those who enjoy having creative fun in the kitchen. I hope it will serve as a key that unlocks all the secrets of Persian cooking for you. I’m excited for you to get together with family and friends and use this book to cook, tell jokes, and eat and drink as Iranians have done for thousands of years.
PERSIA OR IRAN?
Iran and Persia refer to the same place. These days, the word Iran is used to refer to the country and the word Persia or Persian is used to refer to the culture (like Persian carpets, Persian cats, and, of course, Persian food). Persian, also called Farsi, is the language of Iran.
About This Book
If you haven’t eaten Persian food and you’d like to give it a try in your own kitchen, but you don’t know where to begin, this is the book for you! Come join me on a voyage of culinary discovery, along a path that stretches through the ages, across Iran from the Caspian Sea in the north to the Persian Gulf in the south. In this book, I help you master basic techniques, use spices delicately, and stock your pantry with key ingredients that may be new to you.
In this book, you discover how to cook rice, the jewel of Persian cooking, with a golden crust, known as tahdig. You become confident about the building blocks of khoresh, a Persian braise that has a depth of flavor. I also show you how to cook a range of different Persian vegetarian dishes that can be served as side dishes to the main course, creating a feast! If you’re vegetarian or vegan, I offer options at the end of many of the recipes throughout this book, too.
This book includes my family’s favorite recipes — I hope they become yours, too! The recipes in this book help you put together various menus to please everyone. Think of this book as a road map that will guide and lead you to your destination of a perfect Persian meal. You can refer to it on a need-to-know basis and skip through pages to learn about Persian food culture.
Here are my recommendations to guide you through this book:
Stock your pantry with the basic ingredients you need for cooking Persian food. Some of the recipes in this book need special ingredients that can be found at Persian markets or on the Internet. Good news: You need only three basic seasonings for Persian cooking — salt, pepper, and turmeric — along with a Persian spice mix called
advieh
(see
Chapter 6
).
Note:
You don’t need to make homemade
advieh
every time you cook; store-bought
advieh
(including my own, called Najmieh’s Advieh, and available at
https://persianbasket.com/advieh-najmieh-batmanglij-s-persian-spice-mix.html
) works, too.
Read the entire recipe before you begin to cook to make sure you have all the ingredients. If you don’t have some ingredients, no need to panic — you can easily find replacements in your kitchen. For example, you can substitute yellow split peas for mung beans because they have similar cooking times. Fresh tomatoes can be replaced with canned tomatoes, and fresh sour cherries can be replaced with dried or frozen ones. You can even replace dried barberries, a specialty of Persian cooking, with dried unsweetened cranberries.
Setting out your prepared ingredients (known as
mise en place
in French) is standard practice in professional kitchens, but I recommend it for anyone who wants to cook with less hassle. If the recipe calls for, say, peeled tomatoes or chopped herbs, you’ll be more efficient if you have these items prepared and ready to go before you begin cooking.
You’ll need basic equipment for Persian cooking, including a nonstick pot for cooking
tahdig,
a good skillet or frying pan, and a wooden spatula to prevent scratching nonstick pots. (
Chapter 2
walks you through all the tools you need.)
Personalize the recipes to suit your tastes. This practice comes naturally when you have confidence in the kitchen. If you’re new to cooking in general, give yourself time — you’ll get there!
An everyday Persian meal is made up of rice, braise, and small side dishes, such as yogurt-based salads. A platter of fresh herbs, cheese, and flatbread always accompany a Persian meal. Most of my recipes are made for four to six people — you’ll have plenty of food, but if you’re planning to cook for more than six people, you can scale up your recipe. As a rule, if you’re doubling a recipe, double the spices as well. If you’re more than doubling a recipe, I recommend initially going easy on the spices and then adjusting them to your taste at the end of your cooking.
All recipes have English titles followed by the original Persian titles in parentheses.
All oven temperatures are in Fahrenheit, but the Appendix at the back of the book provides conversions to Celsius.
Vegetarian recipes are marked with the tomato icon in the Recipes in This Book (after the Table of Contents), as well as in the Recipes in This Chapter list (at the beginning of every chapter). For nonvegetarian recipes, when possible, I include tips on altering the recipes to make them vegetarian — you can find that information at the ends of the recipes.
Finally, within this book, you may note that some web addresses break across two lines of text. If you’re reading this book in print and you want to visit one of these web pages, simply key in the web address exactly as it’s noted in the text, pretending as though the line break doesn’t exist. If you’re reading this as an e-book, you’ve got it easy — just click the web address to be taken directly to the web page.
Foolish Assumptions
In writing this book, I made a few assumptions about you, the reader:
You’ve tasted Persian food at a Persian restaurant and you want to make it in your own kitchen.
You’re interested in cooking and you have some experience with it. (If you’re totally new to cooking, I recommend starting with
Cooking Basics For Dummies,
5th Edition, by Bryan Miller and Marie Rama [Wiley].)
You’re curious and want to learn about Persian food and interested in familiarizing yourself with unfamiliar ingredients.
Icons Used in This Book
Throughout the book, you see icons in the margins. Here’s what each icon means:
The Tip icon highlights information that will make your life easier — in the kitchen, at least!
Whenever I tell you something so important that you should commit it to memory, I use the Remember icon.
When you see the Warning icon, be extra careful — the information here will help prevent something from going wrong.
Persian food is an integral part of Persian culture. I use the Cultural Wisdom icon to highlight some cultural information that can enrich your experience of Persian cuisine.
Beyond the Book
In addition to what you’re reading right now, this book comes with a free access-anywhere Cheat Sheet that includes tips on how to buy key Persian ingredients (such as good-quality basmati rice, dried barberries, saffron, pomegranates, grapes, date molasses, and yellow split peas), Persian cooking tools and techniques, and how to build a khoresh. To get this Cheat Sheet, go to www.dummies.com and type Persian Cooking For Dummies Cheat Sheet in the search box.
Where to Go from Here
If you’re new to Persian cooking, I recommend starting with Part 2, which is all about common Persian cooking techniques, how to use Persian ingredients, how to build a khoresh, and how to bring a meal together. Parts 3 and 4 guide you to building your own menus — you’ll find everything you need, from appetizers to desserts.
You don’t need to create a feast the first time you make a Persian meal. Just try one recipe, and then build on your repertoire from there. The key is to have fun!
I hope this book serves as a key that unlocks all the secrets of Persian cooking for you. I’m excited for you to get together with family and friends and use this book to cook, tell jokes, and eat and drink as Iranians have done for thousands of years. Nush-e joon! (This traditional wish in Persian is similar to bon appétit in French. It means, “May the food be nourishing.”)
Part 1
Getting Started with Persian Cooking
IN THIS PART …
Look at the history of Persian cooking.
Discover the essential kitchen tools for Persian cooking and how to use them.
Stock your kitchen with the special ingredients needed for Persian cooking and find out how to use them.
Chapter 1
Exploring Persian Culture through Food
IN THIS CHAPTER
Surveying a few thousand years of Persian cooking at a glance
Understanding how Persian meals are served
Every country expresses itself in food — the meals and casual delights created from what grows in its soil, swims in its seas, and grazes on its fields. Yet food is so much more than sustenance. In ways both subtle and powerful, it maintains bonds of family, friends, communities, and entire societies.
I was born in Iran, but I’ve lived away from it for the past 40 years, researching and writing cookbooks about Persian cuisine in exile. A few years ago, I wanted to renew my ties directly and went back to Iran to see and see again the amazing markets; meet cooks and restaurateurs; and share kitchens, tables, tastes, and scents that convey the very essence of Persian cooking. This book is the simplified, yet authentic result.
You know more about Persian food than you may think. When you ask for oranges, pistachios, spinach, or saffron, you’re using words derived from Persian that refer to foods either originating in the region or introduced from there, because Persia was a great trading center of the ancient and medieval worlds. The land was the first home of many common herbs, from basil to cilantro, as well as scores of familiar preparations, including sweet-and-sour sauces, kabobs, and almond pastries.
In this chapter, I walk you through the long history of Persian cooking (in just a few pages!) and introduce you to the way in which Persian meals are served.
Going Back to the Beginning
Kingdoms had risen and fallen for thousands of years before the Persians arrived in the plateau known as Iran. Ancient Persians inherited the civilizations of the past; they absorbed and transformed the arts of Mesopotamia, Assyria, Babylonia, and Elam (present-day southwestern Iran).
The Persians had their kings of the fifth and fourth centuries BCE to thank for their famous royal kitchens and love of food. Darius the Great paid attention to agriculture and urged the transport of seeds and plants. To feed the famed Persian horses, alfalfa seeds were exported to Greece. To feed humans (and for pleasure), plants were transported from province to province — rice was imported from China and India, sesame from Babylon to Egypt, fruit trees from Persia to Anatolia, and pistachios from Persia to Syria.
We know from the fifth century BCE Elamite clay administrative archives discovered in the 1930s in southwestern Iran, that ancient Persians used many herbs and spices, such as cardamom, celery, cumin, dill, mustard seeds, saffron, and sesame. The ration register also includes both fresh and dried fruit and nuts, such as almonds, apples, dates, figs, mulberries, pears, and pistachios, which confirms Iranians’ love and use of these herbs, spices, fruits, and nuts for more than 2,500 years.
The royal courts of two ancient Persian empires, a thousand years apart, were famous for their cuisines. Today, we would call them “foodies.” What we know about Persian food is from archaeological kitchen tools; architecture, miniature painting, and poetry; linguistics; and old texts and cookbooks. Several cookbooks were written in Arabic during the tenth century, but we know that many of the recipes were borrowed from Persian royal kitchens of the sixth century and later taken to Europe by the Arabs.
The great ancient trade routes that are now called the Silk Road connected China to Italy with Iran at its center. As a result, Iran looked both east and west and became the trading center of the ancient world. Thus, Persia both influenced and was influenced by the culture and cuisines that existed between the Mediterranean in the west and China in the east.
Having some give and take with China, India, and Turkey
Rice, which was cultivated in China and India 5,000 years ago, seems to have reached Persia only in the 4th century BCE, but it did not become an important part of Persian cooking until the 15th century. Since then, rice has become not so much the anchor of a meal (the way it is in China), but the basis of festive and elaborate dishes called polows. Like other popular dishes, polows have spread far beyond their Persian source. Under such related names as pullao, pilavi, pilaf, and pilau, they grace celebrations from Afghanistan to Albania, and from India to Turkey.
Noodles and noodle dishes are often associated with Chinese and Italian cooking. In fact, according to legend, Marco Polo brought noodles from China to Italy in the 13th century. Today, however, food scholars agree that pasta probably originated in Persia. In fact, it was the Arabs who introduced noodles, and the hard durum wheat necessary for making it, from Persia to Italy in the ninth century via Sicily and Genoa. No one knows exactly how the technique for making pasta reached China. What can be said with certainty is that before the Han Dynasty in the second century BCE, China lacked the mills, which the Iranians had, for large-scale grinding of the durum wheat used to make pasta.
In the second century BCE, a Chinese imperial guard called Zhang Qian, was sent west on a diplomatic mission. In Persia, he discovered and took back to China not only the domesticated seeds of grapes (for making wine) and alfalfa (for feeding horses), but also such exotica as broad beans, coriander, cucumber, pomegranates, sesame, and walnuts.
Later, Persian cooking, already international, helped to influence the conquering Arabs of the 7th century and the Mongols of the 13th century. Between the 13th and 15th centuries, the Mongols, who later ruled parts of India, took both Persian cooking and the Persian language to India. Today, kabobs, koofteh, biriyani, and korma in Indian cooking all show the influence of Persian cooking.
During this period, Persian cooking also greatly influenced the cuisines of Mughal India and Ottoman Turkey. We know that the Ottoman Empire invited Persian chefs to cook in their royal kitchens. Today, what is called “Ottoman cuisine” in Turkey is very similar to Persian cooking, and many of the names of dishes still show their Persian origins.
Seeing how the Arabs introduced Persian food to North Africa and Europe
You might think that the conquest of Persia by the Arab armies in 637 would end the rich Persian civilization and trade, because the desert warriors were rough men and nomads. But instead, within a few generations, the conquerors were building new cities in the circular style of the Persians, constructing buildings with the vaulted domes and courtyards, absorbing and extending Persian scholarship, wearing Persian-style clothes, drinking Persian wine, eating Persian food, and writing cookbooks that included Persian recipes in Arabic. Persia provided the model for the splendid centuries known as the Golden Age of Islam (from the 8th to the 14th centuries). The Arabs introduced Persian cooking ingredients and techniques to North Africa and Europe. These exchanges formed a culinary bond — a sign of early and peaceful communication — that linked distant and sometimes hostile cultures.
Identifying the influence of Islamic dietary restrictions
Before the Arabs arrived, Persians were Zoroastrians (followers of one of the world’s oldest religions — one that influenced not only Judaism, Christianity, and Islam, but also Buddhism and Greek philosophy) and were wine makers and drinkers.
Wine was an integral part of the Persian culture, and all Zoroastrian ceremonies included drinking wine. However, with the arrival of Islam, wine was forbidden, and Islamic dietary restrictions were imposed on Persians. The consumption of alcohol, pork, and some seafood were forbidden for believers of the faith. Additionally, the concept of halal (an Islamic method of slaughtering animals, very similar to kosher in Judaism) was introduced to Persians.
Recognizing the similarities and differences from region to region
Iran is a big country, highly diverse in climate and terrain, with mountain ranges, grasslands, and deserts. Seas lie to the north and south. Here and there are great cities where many cultures mingle. These regions have distinctly different climates, and until the advent of modern transportation, each had its own local ingredients and food culture.
Every region in Iran has its own style of cooking. But certain basic themes remain. For instance, yogurt and its by-product, kashk (fermented sun-dried yogurt) is used all over Iran, but in northwest Iran, yogurt is more prevalent, whereas in central Iran kashk is more common. Fruit and its molasses are used in recipes all over Iran, but pomegranate and citrus are the souring agent of choice in northern Iran, whereas tamarind and dried lime are popular in southern Iran and vinegar is popular in central Iran.
Understanding the philosophy behind Persian cooking
Thousands of years ago, Zoroaster elaborated on the ancient myth of the twins. One of the twins became good and the other, evil; one, the follower of truth and the other of falsehood. This concept of duality is typically Persian, and it extends beyond moral issues. We often balance sweet and sour in cooking. For Persians, food is also classified as garmi (hot) and sardi (cold). Dates and grapes, for instance, are hot fruits; oranges, peaches, and plums are cold. This classification of ingredients has nothing to do with the temperature or spiciness, but rather the nutritional properties of the ingredients. This concept of balancing dishes is similar to the Ayurvedic diet in India and yin and yang in China.
Eating Persian-Style
Traditionally, Iranian meals are served on a sofreh (a cotton cover embroidered with prayers and poems), which is spread over a Persian carpet or a table. Besides the main course, a Persian meal at home always includes Nan-o Panir-o Sabzi Khordan, a platter of bread, cheese, and whatever vegetables and herbs are freshest in the garden or market that day. Added to this are small dishes called mokhalafat or mazzeh, which often include yogurt-based salads, pickles, egg kukus (an egg, herb, or vegetable omelet much like an Italian frittata), seasonal fresh fruits like melon, puddings and custards, and dried fruit such as dates. They’re spread out for the family and friends or any uninvited guests who may appear.
All those sitting around the sofreh are asked to help themselves to what they like, before, during, and after the meal. There is no rule or order that governs the way you eat the meal, unlike the idea of first course, second course, and so on found in western meals.
Chapter 2
Tools of the Trade
IN THIS CHAPTER
Purchasing pots and pans
Shopping for knives and other miscellaneous tools
Making life easier with kitchen appliances
In order to make the recipes in this book, you’ll need some tools — everything from pots and pans to knives, cutting boards, and more. Many of these items you probably already have; others may be unfamiliar to you. In this chapter, I walk you through everything you’ll need so you can take an inventory of your kitchen and make a list of the tools you may want to add.
Pots and Pans
No matter what you’re cooking, using the right pot or pan is important. In this section, I list all the pots and pans you’ll want to have on hand.
You may see the terms reactive and nonreactive used when referring to cookware. These terms refer to the type of metal from which a container is made. Aluminum, cast iron, and copper are all reactive. Stainless-steel, ceramic, glass, and metal cookware with enamel coating are all nonreactive.
Nonstick pot
A nonstick pot is essential for creating a rice with a golden crust, known as tahdig. Use a deep, nonstick pot with a lid to allow the rice grains to swell properly and a good crust to form without sticking. I use a 5-quart pot that measures 11¼ inches in diameter and 3¼ inches deep.
When steaming rice, be sure to wrap the lid of the pot in a clean dish towel to absorb any condensation and prevent the rice from becoming mushy. Figure 2-1 illustrates how to do it.
Illustration by Elizabeth Kurtzman
FIGURE 2-1: Wrapping a pot lid.
Nonstick pots scratch easily. Look after yours by using a silicone spatula or wooden spoon when touching the bottom of the pot.
Note: You can use a stainless-steel pot for making golden tahdig, but it may not come out whole and some of it may stick to the bottom of the pot.
Braiser
An enameled cast-iron braiser with a cover (see Figure 2-2) is best for making a khoresh (a Persian braise). Your braiser should be wide enough so that the ingredients aren’t lying on top of one another while they’re being sautéed, but deep enough to contain the broth. Le Creuset makes a very good braiser, but you can find a less expensive option made by Lodge.
Illustration by Elizabeth Kurtzman
FIGURE 2-2: Braiser.
Saucepan with lid
A small saucepan is necessary for boiling ingredients. It’s also great for cooking eggs, potatoes, grains, and legumes. You can find saucepans in various sizes — for example, 1½ quarts, 2½ quarts, or 3 quarts. If you don’t own a saucepan, I recommend 1½ quarts, but if you already have one in another size, as long as it has a lid, you’ll be fine.
Wide skillet
Wide skillets are good for caramelizing onions, toasting spices and nuts, cooking patties and meatballs, and searing meat and fish. You can find skillets in various sizes — 10 inches and 12 inches are common. If you’re in the market for a skillet, I recommend 12 inches, but if you already have a 10-inch skillet, you’ll be able to make any of the recipes in this book.
Crêpe pan
Crêpe pans are great for making lavash (a large, thin flatbread). I use an 11-inch round nonstick crêpe pan without sides. If you don’t have a crêpe pan, any wide nonstick skillet will do the job.
Roasting pan
A roasting pan is essential to make roasts and casseroles. I recommend an All-Clad traditional roasting pan with a rack. Small or large will work.
Sheet pan
I use rimmed sheet pans (instead of ones without rims) because they prevent the juice from dripping off. I have a rimmed half sheet pan for baking and a rimmed quarter sheet pan for making egg kukus (herb and vegetable omelets similar to Italian frittatas).
Knives and Other Cutting Tools
Knives are sacred to all chefs. Some chefs even carry their knives with them when they’re invited to cook in other kitchens. In general, you really only need three knives:
An 8-inch chef knife:
For chopping and dicing.
A paring knife:
For peeling fruits and vegetables. I also like to use a paring knife for peeling fruit and vegetables, but you can use a good, sharp peeler if you aren’t comfortable using a knife.
A long serrated knife:
For slicing thin-skinned vegetables, such as tomatoes, and for bread.
In addition, you may want to have on hand the following:
Vegetable peeler:
Although I use a paring knife for peeling vegetables, a sharp vegetable peeler can come in very handy.
Fillet knife:
For skinning fish and cutting meat.
Cleaver:
For chopping herbs.
Mandoline:
Although I use a knife for slicing, a mandoline is a wonderful tool for thinly slicing onions, cucumbers, or any firm vegetables. Just be very careful, and always wear a mandoline glove.
Microplane:
I like to use a microplane to grate garlic, lime, and orange zest.
Stainless-steel box grater:
For grating onions and tomatoes.
CARING FOR KNIVES
Knives should be stored in a knife block on the counter or in an in-drawer knife block. I don’t recommend those magnetic knife holders attached to the wall, because they may fall and damage the knives or, even worse, hurt someone.
Never put a knife in the dishwasher. Instead, hand-wash them with a soft sponge and soap under warm water and dry them immediately.
Sharpen your knives frequently with a knife sharpener. Sharpening your knives regularly will make slicing and dicing much easier. A sharp knife will also bring fewer tears to your eyes when chopping onions. After sharpening your knife, be sure to rinse it with warm water and wipe it with a clean dish towel.
I’ve seen chefs who exclusively use a cleaver for all their cutting needs, and I was astonished when I met a home cook in southern Iran who used only a paring knife to prepare everything. All that matters is that you use whatever knife you are comfortable with.
Other Miscellaneous Tools
Make sure to have on hand the following miscellaneous kitchen tools. You’ll use them everything you cook, not just for Persian recipes:
Cutting boards:
I use three high-quality cutting boards — one is for vegetables and onions, one is for fruit, and one is for raw meat and fish. I keep my vegetable and fruit cutting boards separate so the fruit doesn’t absorb the flavor of the onions and garlic.
Measuring cups and spoons:
All the recipes in this book call for precise measurements using measuring cups and spoons. Keep them handy while cooking to ensure you add the correct measure of all ingredients to the recipes.
Scale:
Scales are often needed for weighing meats and vegetables.
Ice-cream scoop:
In addition to using an ice-cream scoop for ice cream, I use one for scooping up even amounts of paste for meatballs — this way, all the meatballs come out the same size.
Skewers:
You need skewers for making kabobs. I like to use metal skewers that are anywhere from a ¼ inch to ½ inch wide and about 12 inches long.
Press juicer:
A press juicer can be used for juicing limes, lemons, oranges, and even pomegranates. It’s easy to use, but be sure to wash it and wipe it dry right away after using to prevent the acids from damaging the juicer.
Pot holders and dish towels:
Pot holders and dish towels are essential in any kitchen. But in a Persian kitchen clean dish towels are also used to wrap the lid of the pot used for making rice (refer to
Figure 2-1
, earlier in this chapter).
Timers:
Use timers to prevent overcooking or burning your food. I have multiple timers in my kitchen. They’re essential when you have several dishes cooking at the same time.
Colander:
In a Persian kitchen, you need a stainless-steel fine-mesh colander with a base, especially for draining rice.
Sieve:
Use a sieve with a handle to immerse in a container of water when soaking rice or barberries (or anything else).
Salad spinner:
I use a salad spinner to soak my herbs when washing them. Then I lift up the interior basket, dump the water, and repeat this process twice. Finally, I spin the herbs to dry them. Herbs must be totally dry before chopping.
Rolling pin:
A rolling pin is necessary for rolling out dough. A thin one is especially useful for rolling out the dough for baklava and lavash.
Mixing bowls:
Every kitchen needs at least two mixing bowls, preferably of different sizes. You can use a mixing bowl to make bread dough, as well as for tossing vegetables and marinating kabobs.
Whisk:
I use a whisk to dilute starch in water, to whisk flour, and to prevent curdling in puddings.
Offset spatula:
An offset spatula makes it much easier to turn over patties in a skillet and transfer them to serving plates. It’s also great for removing cookies from sheet pans.
Skimmers and slotted spoons:
I use a fine-mesh skimmer to skim froth and check the grain of the rice while parboiling to make sure it’s tender before draining it.
Wooden spoons and silicone spatulas:
Wooden spoons and silicone spatulas will prevent scratching the bottom of your nonstick pot.
Ladles:
I prefer stainless-steel ladles for soups.
Kitchen Appliances
The following appliances will make cooking faster and easier (which means you can get to the eating even sooner!):
Food processor:
A food processor is a must in a Persian kitchen. You have so many herbs to chop and nuts to grind, and a food processor will expedite this process. It’s also great for mincing onions used when making meatballs and kabobs.
Rice cooker:
Rice cookers are a wonderful invention for cooking rice Persian-style because the nonstick coating allows for the creation of the
tahdig
and the unvarying temperature produces consistently good rice. However, to make the best
tahdig,
buy a rice cooker from a Persian market — their thermostats are set for making the golden crust (Japanese rice cookers won’t do this).
Spice grinder: My mother had a huge stone mortar and pestle in her kitchen, which she used for grinding everything from rock salt to nuts. In addition to a small, marble mortar and pestle, I use an electric spice grinder and absolutely love it!
Never put anything moist in the spice grinder. Moisture affects the quality of the spice, causes it to mold, and, worst of all, can give you an electric shock if you put your finger inside when removing the ground spice. (I speak from experience.)
Electric stand mixer:
I use an electric stand mixer to make dough.
Electric handheld mixer:
An electric handheld mixer is very useful for partially pureeing the grains in a soup while it’s cooking.
Multicooker:
Using a multicooker (like an Instant Pot) can reduce the cooking time for braises by half, especially when you have bone-in meats and legumes. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the multicooker that you’re using.
Chapter 3
Shopping for Essential Ingredients
IN THIS CHAPTER
Picking the perfect meat, poultry, and fish
Gathering dairy products and eggs
Perusing the produce section
Choosing the right fat
Stocking your pantry
Finishing it off with flavorings and garnishes
The easiest way to begin your Persian cooking journey is to have a well-stocked kitchen. If you’re lucky enough to have a Persian grocer or market nearby, check it out! Exploring various ethnic food cultures by visiting their grocery stores is a fascinating and educational experience for anyone who loves to cook. I encourage you to go to the Persian market and shop for all the specialty ingredients used in Persian cooking. Whenever fresh tarragon and dill are out of stock at my local supermarket (which is often these days), I can rely on the Persian market to have them. Fresh fava beans in the pod (in season) or frozen fava beans that are double peeled are always available at Persian markets. You’ll also find Persian basil, a relative of lemon basil that’s more tender than Thai basil and has a delicate taste, perfect for accompanying Persian food. Narenj (sour orange); fresh, young grape leaves; and fresh ghureh (unripe grapes) are only available at Persian markets.
In this chapter, I fill you in on the ingredients you’ll want to have on hand and what to look for when shopping for them.
Meat, Poultry, and Fish
Traditionally, lamb and veal have been used in Persian cooking, but you can also use beef (beef eye of round, cut into cubes is good for braising). However, lamb is my preferred meat these days because, in the United States, it’s the least likely to have added hormones and antibiotics.
Braises are typically made with red meat, but I give you the choice to make them with chicken, too. I prefer to use chicken thighs rather than breasts because they have more fat and, as a result, are more flavorful and less likely to become dry. The favorite fish in Persian cooking are striped bass/rockfish or branzino. I’ve also found that salmon works very well.
Lamb
I prefer to use boneless leg of lamb or goat for making braises, but you can replace it with beef or veal if you prefer. If you aren’t familiar with cooking lamb, the recipes in this book will help you grow to love it.
When buying lamb to use in braises, look for some marble in the meat — you want to see some parts with fat. This is important because braises can take up to two hours to cook, and the fat on the meat will keep it tender.
Chicken
I often buy organic, boneless, skinless chicken thighs for Persian cooking — it’s tastier and juicier than chicken breast. Plus, chicken thighs are good not only for kabobs but also for braises that need to simmer for a long time.
Fish
Atlantic salmon, which is often most readily available fresh, works very well in Persian cooking. If you’re lucky enough to find fresh, wild striped bass or rockfish, get it! These fish come closest to the taste of the renowned Caspian Sea whitefish called kutum. Grouper is another fish good for Persian cooking — it’s close to the Persian Gulf’s famous hamour.
Dairy and Eggs
Persians have used all kinds of dairy products in their cooking since ancient times. Yogurt is cherished, and often you’ll find a bowl of it on the table as an accompaniment to a meal. Adding kashk, a sundried sour yogurt, gives Persian noodle soup a distinctive and delicious flavor. White sheep or goat cheese (like feta) is popular for breakfast; it’s also often included in the indispensable fresh herb platter on the Persian table. Soft-boiled eggs are popular breakfast fare, but a favorite way to eat eggs is as a kuku, which is an egg, herb, or vegetable omelet similar to an Italian frittata.
Be sure to look at the expiration date when buying all your dairy and eggs.
Milk
I use whole milk in my recipes (though you can use low-fat or skim milk). You can also use plant-based milks such as almond or oat milk as a nondairy substitute.
Yogurt
In Iran, yogurt is always plain and often drained to make it thicker and richer (mast-e kisehi). It’s available in Persian markets (or you can drain your own). Good equivalents, available in traditional supermarkets in the United States, are known by names such as Greek strained yogurt, labneh, or kefir cheese. I also like Cream Top Plain Whole Milk Yogurt from Brown Cow (www.browncowfarm.com/products/cream-top/plain).
A well-known story goes like this: A desert nomad, possibly Persian, was carrying some milk in his goatskin canteen. During his journey, heat and the right bacteria (Lactobacillus) transformed the milk into yogurt. The nomad took his chances and drank the mixture. Much to his astonishment, he found a sour, creamy, and pleasant taste. When he didn’t get sick, he shared his discovery with others. And that’s how we got yogurt!
Kashk
Kashk is a by-product of fermented and sun-dried sour yogurt. In Iran, it’s used in cooking as a high-protein, fat-free replacement for cream. Traditionally, kashk is sold as a solid and dissolved in water to use in cooking. These days, it’s also available in jars as a liquid. Or you can make your own (see Chapter 4).
Cheese
Panir (Persian cheese) is curdled, boiled milk cut into blocks. It’s made simply with whole milk — sheep, goat, or cow — and lime juice. Panir is often eaten for breakfast with bread and herbs. You can make your own panir easily using the recipe in Chapter 4, or find it (often called feta) at your local grocery store. It can be flavored with fresh or dried herbs, nigella seeds, or sesame seeds, or served plain. My preferred panir these days is cheese made with goat’s milk.
Eggs
In northern Iran, they love to use duck eggs, a delicacy of the region. The rest of Iran, however, uses chicken eggs, and I always use organic, free-range eggs in my own cooking. In the recipes in this book, I use large eggs.
