Reconstructing Clothes For Dummies E-Book

Miranda Caroligne Burns

• Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 439

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2011

Beschreibung

Reconstructing Clothes for Dummies offers inspiring projects and savvy tips on how to salvage those tired old clothes in your closet and turn them into a one-of-a-kind wardrobe. It shows craftsters, DIY enthusiasts, budget-conscious fashionistas and people from all walks of life how to unleash their inner fashion designer and transform outdated duds into hip new clothes. Featured projects include making good use of old scraps; reviving shrunken sweaters; finding redemption in that bridesmaid dress; decorative repair and embellishment of existing pieces; and creating unexpected home décor with what’s hiding in your drawers.

Leseprobe

Reconstructing Clothes For Dummies®

by Miranda Caroligne Burns

Reconstructing Clothes For Dummies®

Published byWiley Publishing, Inc.111 River St.Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774www.wiley.com

Copyright © 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana

Published simultaneously in Canada

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Library of Congress Control Number: 2007926404

ISBN: 978-0-470-12767-4

Manufactured in the United States of America

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

About the Author

Miranda Caroligne Burns (San Francisco, CA) has donned a variety of hats in her young years: physical therapist, event producer, community activist, installation artist, author, performance artist, philosopher, and fashion designer. Mentored by her mother, Miranda has been sewing and creating her own clothing since she could hold a needle. Over time she developed a zest for re-use and heartfelt desire for truly unique design. This ethos is masterfully woven together to recall the forms of yesteryear with an otherworldly edge — a philosophy she calls “neoarchaic.”

Miranda’s life has been a bi-coastal artistic evolution. She became active in the alternative arts scene in Boston, where she introduced “living construction,” a live sewing performance piece staged in gallery window fronts.

Relocating to San Francisco in 2005, she quickly emerged as a bright new star in a constellation of provocative artist-designers. Her fashion shows are known for their performance-art quality, embodying political, artistic, and personal statements. These shows include Catwalk on the Wild Side (U.N. World Environment Day Gala “Walk the Talk”), Love Fest VIP Event (San Francisco City Hall), and Maker Faire (Swaporamarama and Make magazine). She has also had various individual performance art appearances at Supperclub San Francisco, San Jose Museum of Art, and Burningman.

Meander through San Francisco’s Mission-Deco Ghetto neighborhood and you’ll find Miranda reconstructing in the window-front of her boutique, miranda caroligne — a living construction boutique (www.mirandacaroligne.com), 485 14 Street @ Guerrero. You’re sure to be delighted by the local art and design, and step forward with the inspiration to do it yourself!

Dedication

This book is dedicated to you. Yes, you! You are a living, breathing work of art in full construction and reconstruction every day. Shed your fear and take off the blinders. Live fully in truth, clarity, and consciousness. Free yourself of waste and find time for your passion in life. Be inspired by the re-use artists and entrepreneurs in this book. Be an inspiration for others.

Author’s Acknowledgments

The rebel in me is pulled to write something unusual but I honestly must express immense gratitude to my parents. Not only did they teach me about sewing and textiles, but also how to create a livelihood from “hobbies.” They never restricted my creativity and exploration of new ideas, even when I cut up my turtlenecks for miniskirts! Still they managed to instill a core ethic of hard work, humanity, and environmental responsibility. Thank you.

Much thanks to the trail of wonderful people who made this book happen: Lindsay Lefevere and Jennifer Connolly, my editors at Wiley Publishing, for your ever-positive spirit, guidance, and advocacy; Wendy Tremayne of Swaporamarama, for sending Lindsay my way; Steven Raspa for introducing me to Wendy (as well as being his inspiring self!); and the folks at Make magazine for supporting the Swap and DIY textile arts at their Maker Faire.

Thank you to my fellow artists for ideas, help in the boutique, signature hair-coloring breaks, coffee, and emergency computer aid: Anastazia Louise of Bad Unkl Sista, Dida Cudrnak of Dida Jewelry, Marc Scheff of Dangermarc, Mariefrance of Madusalon, Rachel Hospodar of Medium Reality, Rebecca Vandersteen of Venus Superstar, and Tammy “Tamo” Hulva of Greengirl and Wildlife Works. To Del Greger and Honne Heller; you are the divas of graceful play and I am truly humbled to receive your wisdom, brownies, and old clothes.

I owe my eyes to Loren Earle-Cruickshanks for his photographic genius in making the boring projects appealing and the good ones infinitely better. On the other side of the lens, thanks to Tamara Ja, Amy Leblanc, Lauren Borowski, Chris Ray Collins, and Ocean for your strength of character. Much thanks to the following artists for accessorizing the shoots: www.aikojewelry.com, www.didajewelry.com, www.fluidance.com, www.orelafey.com, www.rengaarts.com, www.venussuperstar.com, and www.zacharypryor.com.

We all owe a debt of gratitude to the people behind the shoot locations: Building Resources and for keeping building materials in circulation of use rather than in our landfills; Jens-Peter Jungclaussen, The Teacher With The Bus, for his veggie oil fueled mobile classroom; artist Nome Edonna for his work in found objects as an artist-in-residence at Sunset Scavenger; artists and all-around exemplary human beings Marcus Guillard, Melvin Occasio, and Chris Ray Collins for creating beauty with the scraps in their own backyard. Thank you for allowing me to share your work with others and to show the variety of ways we can all diminish waste for a more sustainable future.

Thanks to my community for being fantastic beings of inspiration and endless support. So many others to thank for their smiles, patience, needles, adventure kidnappings, healing hands, glitchy beats, hugs ’n clown kisses, open hearts, and bright eyes to swim in . . . you know, all that gushy stuff!

Publisher’s Acknowledgments

We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/.

Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following:

Acquisitions, Editorial, and Media Development

Project Editor: Jennifer Connolly

Acquisitions Editor: Lindsay Lefevere

Copy Editor: Jennifer Connolly

Technical Editor: Rachel Hopsdar

Editorial Manager: Michelle Hacker

Editorial Supervisor: Carmen Krikorian

Editorial Assistants: Erin Calligan, Joe Niesen, Leeann Harney

Cover and Interior Photos: LEC Photo, Inc.

Cartoons: Rich Tennant (www.the5thwave.com)

Composition Services

Project Coordinator: Lynsey Osborn

Layout and Graphics: Jonelle Burns, Denny Hager, Joyce Haughey, Stephanie Jumper, Shelley Norris, Laura Pence, Alicia B. South, Christine Williams

Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico

Proofreaders: Laura Albert, Cynthia Fields, Susan Moritz, Aptara

Indexer: Aptara

Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies

Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies

Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies

Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies

Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel

Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel

Publishing for Technology Dummies

Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/General User

Composition Services

Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services

Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents

Title

Introduction

About This Book

How to Use This Book

Conventions Used in This Book

Foolish Assumptions

How This Book Is Organized

Icons Used in This Book

Where to Go from Here

Part I : Let the Reconstruction Begin! But First . . .

Chapter 1: The Ins, Outs, and Inside-Outs of This Book

Reconstructed Clothing Defined

Just Who Do You Think You Are?

Perusing This Book for Your Best Interest

Chapter 2: Reconstruction Reasons

Reduce

Reuse

Recycle

Reaping Financial Gain

Rescuing Old Favorites

Redeeming Closet Space

Representing Your Self

Chapter 3: Scoping Stuff with an Eye for Design

Shopping Your Own Shelves

Lifting the Thrifting Veil

Updated Optimism on Dated Styles

Playing the Numbers

Giving Ill-Fitting Clothes a Second Chance

Damaged But Not Done Yet

Feel-Good Fabric

Best Bet Basics

ABC’s to Avoid

Chapter 4: Deconstructing 101: Taking Stuff Apart

Creating Space to Minimize Waste

Getting the “Gotta-Have-Its”

Taking It Up a Notch with More Tools

Leaving Caution (and Washing) to the Wind

Making the Most of Flaws

Deconstructing Like a Pro

Chapter 5: Reconstructing 101: The Very Basics of Sewing

Stocking Up On Sewing Essentials

Setting Up Your Workspace

Going Unplugged — Sewing By Hand

Moving Up To Machine Sewing

Oh Holy Overlock Machine

In a Pinch Tricks

Part II : Shirts: Sluggish to Spectacular

Chapter 6: Transforming T-shirts

Giving Your T-shirt Some TLC

Upside-Down Skirt in a Topsy-Turvy World

No-Stop Halter Top

Diminishing Waste with Waistbands

Chapter 7: Redefining Boring Button-downs

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Button-downs

Busting Out the Neck Bustles

Bridging the Sweater Gap Top

Getting Crafty With Cuffs

Chapter 8: Pullover Overhaul

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Pullover

Running Circles Around Crop Tops

Wrap to Write Home About

Part III : Breathing Life into Dead Pants

Chapter 9: Basic Slacks Brought Back

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Pants

Renaissance Repairs Pants

Skirts and Such

Surprise Fly Top

Chapter 10: Regenerating Jeans

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Jeans

Repetition Editions Jeans

Oh-So-Hip Hip Belt

It’s in the Bag Shoulderbag

Chapter 11: The Existential Stretch Pant

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Stretch Pants

Bare and Flare Skirt

Layering the Leggings

From Flat to Hat

Part IV : Salvation for Your Sweaters and Other Knits

Chapter 12: Do It Again with Your Cardigan

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Cardigan

Running Wild

Bad Unkl Sista Sweater

Making a Case for Pillowcases

A Twist on the Upside-Down Skirt

Chapter 13: Pullover Sweaters Pulled in All Directions

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Pullover Sweaters

Take Two On the Tees

Sleek ’n’ Sneaky Sleeves

Bag Ladies Shoulderbag

Chapter 14: Afghan Today, What Tomorrow?

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Afghan

Pimping the Poncho

Vestcoat Investments

Part V : Skirts and Dresses (re)Done Right

Chapter 15: Bridesmaid’s Redemption

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Dress

A Little Heat Gun Goes a Long Way Dress

Split Skirt Stick-Up

Cape — from Costume to Couture

Whip Up a Wine Bag

Chapter 16: Second Life For Your Skirt

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Skirt

Freeform and Frill Skirt

Business Skirt Gone Badass

Cutting-Edge Cowl Neck Top

Chapter 17: Addressing That Tired Old Dress

Prepping, Primping, and Post Care for Your Dress

Showing Some Skin Dress

Raw the Right Way Dress

Sets of All Sorts Top/Skirt

Part VI : Now What to Do with All These Scraps?

Chapter 18: Brand New Bedding

Save-It-All Stuffing

Casing Your Cozies Pillowcases

Quintessential Quilt

Chapter 19: Deck the Halls with Lots of Scraps

Sachet Simplicity

Pragmatic Potholders

Chapter 20: Decorative (re)Touches

Deco from Garbage to Gorgeous

Choker Chop-Up

Put Your Money Where Your Scraps Are Wallet

Part VII : The Part of Tens

Chapter 21: Ten General Tips

Don’t Be Afraid to Cut It

Let Go of Your Inner Perfectionist

Get in the Groove of a Good Pair of Scissors

Enjoying Evolution

You Are Your Own Model

Stains Can Be Your Guide

Clever Closures

Pinning for Winning

Lock into a Good Overlock

No Salvation for Armpit Stains

Chapter 22: Ten Fix-a-Stain Tricks

Brushing Up on Your Painting

Dye Do-Overs

Drawing 101 — Sharpie Style

Patchwork Pride

Turning the Dial to Decorative Stitching

Seemingly a Mere Seam

Deco-Serge Splurge

Worn with Purpose

Exemplary Embroidery

Buttons and Beads That Can’t Be Beat

: Further Reading

: Color Insert

Introduction

The projects in this book all develop from one essential story. Let me illustrate: Have you ever kept a sweater because it had some significant meaning to you? Maybe at one time it carried the scent of a loved one, or it reminded you of adventures you had in Paris? It may have even been passed down from your favorite grandpa. The clothes you wear are an extension of yourself and all that happens to you. The projects in this book are my way of recycling those moments and integrating them together into a new form. Just as we individuals are transformed by these life-altering experiences, our clothes can be a reflection of those transformations as well.

Although reconstructing clothing is a new hot trend these days, I really hope it sticks. I have been chopping up my clothes since I was a kid and have always been showered with compliments from people of all walks of life. In both my commission work as well as my “living construction” live sewing performances, I have interacted with everyone from CEOs to people living on the street. Everyone I come across is intrigued in some way by this concept. Reconstructing existing clothes is an easy and affordable way to customize and individualize a garment to your own special size and style needs. Reconstructing clothes is truly for everyone

Beyond the practical perks of reconstructing old clothing, there are many environmentally sound aspects as well. With every piece you reconstruct, you are helping to diminish waste in a world overflowing with it. On top of that, every time you wear a reconstructed garment you are promoting re-use and sustainable living philosophies to every person you meet and even the ones who just pass by you on the street. While it may seem cliché, it’s true that we never know the full impact we have on this world. Make it a positive one!

About This Book

I think of this book as a group effort. I like to learn something from everyone I meet, and then put my own spin on it. Reconstructing Clothes For Dummies is a culmination of my experience up to this point, with so many avenues yet to explore.

This book provides you with the basics of taking things apart and reworking them to yield a brand new look. There are a slew of projects, and oh-so-many more in my head. The project instructions are simplified to provide you with the basics. Honestly it was a struggle for my creative self to keep it as barebones as possible for you. But I did this intentionally to allow for your own creativity to rise to the occasion. Part of reconstruction is, after all, making something unique and fully individualized.

I’ve included a list of decorative variations, either variations to the instructions or decorative touches to finish off the project. The variations I list are just my ideas so please don’t think of this list as complete.

Most of the projects in this book require sewing. Whenever applicable, no-sew options to certain steps within the directions have been emphasized. There are also lots of decorative variations that do not involve sewing at all. Additional variations touch on other needlecraft and textile art techniques that you might be interested in exploring further. I encourage you to take this as a platform to spring off of with your own ideas and creativity. Always feel free to expand on the variations with your own personal talents and interests. The possibilities are endless!

Beyond the basics and practical projects, I’ve plugged in conscious reminders of sustainable living practices. I think it’s important to have fun with what you’re doing, but also know why you’re doing it. While Chapter 2 discusses some of the reasons to reconstruct clothing, I’ve also embedded my own experiences and intentions throughout the book. I don’t necessarily just want you to regurgitate my feelings, but I hope to inspire you to look into yourself and figure out your own intentions and aspirations for living a fulfilling life. It won’t necessarily change the look of your piece, but will certainly affect how good you feel in it!

How to Use This Book

This book is not meant to be read cover to cover. If you are anything like me, you just don’t have the time or patience for that! Personally, I like to figure things out with logical thought and what seems to me as common sense. With that, I completely understand others who work in the same manner and don’t feel compelled to read anything more than the directions of their chosen proj- ect. While you might be able to swing this, it will make your life a lot easier to take a quick glance through the chapter in which your project is located. While mistakes and mishaps can be fun adventures to lead you in a new direction, they can also be daunting, especially to the perfectionist. I want you to find success in this reconstruction adventure so I urge you to read a bit and learn new lessons from my mistakes rather than having to make them on your own.

If you are a proficient sewer, have a solid handle on textiles and how to care for them, feel free to just dive right into the projects. In doing so, it’s helpful to refer to the Part of Tens for some quick tips, do’s and don’ts that are special to reconstructing clothing. If you are new to sewing, reconstruction, or just need a refresher, I recommend reading Part I before you begin the projects.

Whenever I talk to people about reconstructing clothes, often a light of realization comes across their eyes. Just about everyone seems to have something in their closet that they don’t wear anymore but can’t bear throwing or giving away for whatever reason. Because of this, I’ve organized this book by the starting garment. This may be pants, a skirt, or an old favorite sweater. On the flip side, there are before/after photos, as well as a color photo insert for you to check out and choose a desired project. From that point, you can either search your own closet or your local thrift store for the starting garment.

Conventions Used in This Book

In the throes of creation, you can easily lose attention with a tangential idea. Not all of us have the luxury of a private studio or workspace free of distractions: ringing phones, hungry pets, playful children and other loved ones. With this in mind, I’ve used a few conventions to help keep your mind and projects organized.

Every chapter starts off with care instructions. This care section often references Chapter 4 for general care instructions, but I note within each chapter individual differences among the garments that are important to take note of.

Every project includes a before photo and ends with an after photo. The before photo is located after the introductory paragraph of each project, while the after photo is located after the instructions and before the list of variations for that project. Please note that these project photos are for the barebones basic version with no variations. In other words, some of them are ugly. The artist in me apologizes. The teacher in me hopes that you appreciate the clarity. In some cases, some “fix-a-stain” or “making the most of wear and tear” tricks have been implemented to create a functionally sound piece.

Every project includes a list of necessary materials presented in bulleted format for easy reference and check-off. I confess that I don’t use all of these materials. If you are proficient with these tools and feel okay substituting, go for it! If not, it’s best to have everything on the list ready to go, and wait to fudge it until you have more practice with reconstructing.

Directions for each project are listed in numbered steps, making it easy to keep your place. Each step begins with boldface text telling you the general action for that step — the text following the boldface text explains the step in more detail. Feel free to write in this book, make your own notes in the white space and margins, and check the steps off as you go along. This book is for using, not putting on a shelf somewhere to look pretty.

At the end of each project is a bulleted list of variations for that proj-ect. These can be repetitive and in no way include all of the possibilities for decorative variations. I’ve simply compiled some creative ideas that I tend to use and plugged them into the projects that they work best with. Do not let this list limit you. If you are compelled to try the stripey spray-paint technique on a knit — go for it! Just because it isn’t listed in the variations, don’t assume that it’s not an option. You are always free to try new things as long as you are willing to accept the consequences that it might not turn out so hot.

The projects photographed for this book have been completed with an overlock machine whenever this method is an option. While I love using an overlock because of its capacity to create the visibly constructed look that I prefer, I in no way want you to feel that you have to go out and buy an overlock just to complete these projects. I chose to use the overlock for these projects so that it was easier for you to see the seams and better understand how things are constructed. It is my primary tool, and thus I must apologize for the horrific sewing on the regular sewing machine. I am not exactly what you would call a good sewer!

Foolish Assumptions

I’ve assumed a few things about you in writing this book:

You are open-minded, creative, and excited to try new things!

You are not a complete novice to sewing. While this book provides brief sewing lessons, it is not a “how-to” book for sewing skills. It is about using those skills, as well as a collection of other techniques, in a novel way.

You either are familiar with the tools, materials and verbiage of this craft or

You are capable of becoming familiar with the tools, materials and verbiage of this craft via the Internet, library, local craft/fabric store, and so on.

You have heard about reconstructing clothing and want to play around with it in your own personal wardrobe.

You want some clear and simple instructions to get you started on reconstructing clothing. You may even have a particular garment in mind already.

You live on this planet and care about its future.

You’re tired of your sweetie’s holey T-shirts and underwear and are determined to do something with them besides making them into rags.

Sound like you? Great . . . let’s get on with it!

How This Book Is Organized

I have broken this book up into seven parts. The first part includes introductory chapters for sewing basics, deconstructing and reconstructing. The following five parts are organized by the type of garment you are starting with in your reconstruction project. Finally, the Part of Tens is a For Dummies staple that provides you with some quick tips to refer to in a pinch.

Part I: Let the Reconstruction Begin! But First . . .

This is the part in which you will find out the who, what, where, when, why, and how about reconstructing. Okay, well maybe not the “who,” because that’s you and you know that already. As far as “when,” well, that’s easy too . . . right now.

Part I lays out the basics of this book. In it you will find the reasons behind reconstructing, how to find good stuff to start with, what to look for, where to find it and how to take it apart. Last is a quickie sewing review of the techniques you can use to put it all back together in a new form.

Part II: Shirts: Sluggish to Spectacular

What a better place to start than at the top! This part is all about reconstruction projects you can do with commonplace shirt styles: T-shirts, button-downs, and pullovers.

Part III: Breathing Life into Dead Pants

Pants come in all shapes and sizes, and this part lets you know what you can do with all of them. Jeans are turned into all sorts of creations, while basic slacks and stretch pants find new life in your wardrobe.

Part IV: Salvation for Your Sweaters and Other Knits

Sweaters and knits provide unique sewing challenges. I present these challenges and show you how to conquer them, amid a slew of projects for both cardigans and pullover sweaters. I even include a chapter to help you figure out what to do with those old afghans!

Part V: Skirts and Dresses (re)Done Right

This part is all about revamping old skirts and dresses. I show you some proj-ects for several styles of skirts, that hideous bridesmaid dress, and multiple options for any old dress.

Part VI: Now What to Do with All These Scraps?

If you are a sewer, or just an all-around pack-rat, you likely have lots of fabric scraps taking up space in your life. Being both of these things, I have not only gotten my own collection, but a virtual family tree of scraps passed down from generation to generation. In this part, you can find lots of ideas for lots of different sizes and types of scraps. It includes chapters on home décor projects and accessories for your own personal wardrobe.

Part VII: The Part of Tens

The Part of Tens is a good quickie referral section of this book. Bring it along with you on thrift-store scavenging trips to find out what to avoid. Trust me, after years of perusing thrift stores there are some definite trends and pitfalls, and I’ve got stacks of them in storage unable to be used but too fantastic to cut up for scraps! It’s often hard to say no when you should. Having this book on hand can help you sort it all out. It’s also a succinct reference for general tips and clever ways to fix stains.

Icons Used in This Book

These cute little drawings are not just here for your entertainment. They serve to emphasize important points. Think of them as a big flashing sign begging for your attention.

The Tip icon points out just that, tips! Next to this icon you will find additional suggestions for either doing something better, faster or beyond the basics in some way.

Eeek! Forget to read this and you may lose a finger! But seriously, there are some dangers in reconstructing clothing, whether to yourself, your tools or your garment. Read this to avoid injury!

Sometimes we forget, being human and all. This icon points out areas in which this might be common, and helps keep you on track!

There are few projects that can be completed without at least some sewing. Many, however, have components in the main pattern and even more variations that can be done without a needle and thread. You can find all of these easily just by keeping your eyes peeled for this icon.

Three cheers for recycling! Saving your scraps from these projects can propel you onto yet another project. This icon is next to every opportunity to do this. It lists at least one suggestion for the particular scrap. The option is always open to use your scraps in any way you choose as long as they are kept in circulation and out of our landfills as long as possible!

Where to Go from Here

While there are a growing number of books with ideas and patterns for reconstructing clothing, I encourage you to explore your own ideas. Think about what is lacking in clothing for you, either in the fit or the style. Are sleeves always too short? Do you love fleece but the styles are always too sporty? Or do you find yourself saying, “I love this top but I just wish it was <insert adjective here>.” Well find those garments and then plop open the pages to the applicable chapter to find some projects to get started on pronto.

If you’re wanting to know more about reconstructing clothes before you begin hacking away at your own pieces, just turn to Part I. This book is a great way to get a hold of some basics and get a running start on inspiration.

My other hope with this book is that it will get you thinking about all sorts of ways you can re-use and diminish waste in your daily life. While the problems of the environment can seem overwhelming and just too much to make a difference as an individual, every little bit helps. Wearing reconstructed clothing is a publicly visible reminder of re-use ethics. It’s also a great trigger for conversations about creative re-use. I’ve included lots of references, especially within the color photo insert, to re-use facilities, programs and individuals: an artist-in-residence program at my local dump, two facilities that sell salvaged building materials (great stuff like antique claw-foot bathtubs!), a revamped veggie oil school bus, and a variety of artists working with recycled materials. These types of things are within your reach to take part in, if not establish, in your own community. Your children will thank you.

Part I

Let the Reconstruction Begin! But First . . .

In this part . . .

In Part I, I lay out the prep you need to start your reconstruction projects successfully. You discover not only how to use this book to your best interests, but also develop some realistic expectations and inspiration in reconstructing clothes. You become privy to my most precious secrets in finding good starting material . . . shhhh . . . it’s just between you and me and thousands of other readers. With this knowledge and a pile o’ clothes you can read on to find out the best ways to take garments apart and put them all back together again.

Chapter 1

The Ins, Outs, and Inside-Outs of This Book

In This Chapter

Understanding how it all began

Defining reconstruction methods

Discovering which method is best for you

Playing withideas and projects

Figuring out where you’re coming from and where you want to go

Checking out some ethically sound eye candy

Before I knew what reconstructing clothing was, I was doing it. Heck, I was doing it as soon as I knew how to use a pair of scissors and thread a needle! Just as my dolls all had crew cuts, they also had tricked-out reconstructed clothing.

Like most reconstruction creatrixes, my initial impetus for heading down this path was a desire to do things differently. Patterns bored me and made me feel boxed in tight to someone else’s rules. Existing clothes that I found at the mall (my only choice for shopping) were always lacking. They were especially lacking the individuality that I was compelled to express. I wasn’t a rebellious troublemaker, the opposite in fact. I was a little bit of everything and thus not fully able to be defined or stereotyped. I like to think of my clothing in the same way.

Reconstructed clothing is not limited to a certain style, culture, or peer group. Reconstructed clothing is for each and every individual. It is a mishmash of styles. It is about dismantling mass-production, both in what we put on our bodies and how we function as a community unit, as well as an individual in that same community.

Sample sales a.k.a. trunk shows!

When I lived in Boston I attempted, in vain, to put together a trunk show. I soon realized that nobody even knew what this was. Because of this experience, I feel that it is important to share this amazing thing with you in hopes that you can produce and/or support them in your own community. Trunk shows, also known as sample sales, can range in size and location but generally involve local clothing and accessory designers gathering to present and sell their creations to the public. Word on the underground design street is that they started as true “sample” sales, a sample being the initial garment that a designer sews together to test out the design prior to production. This has broadened to designers bringing their entire collections, samples or not. The perks to this are beneficial to not only the designer, but the consumer as well. It provides a means for even the smallest designer to test the waters on selling their work. It also allows for them to clear out their samples and other pieces that aren’t suitable for retail shops for whatever reason. For the consumer, it’s a great way to get good deals (usually half of the retail price) on fantastic stuff. Typically the designers present their work in person, which allows for a direct relationship to form, increasing support for the artist and customization for the consumer.

Reconstructed Clothing Defined

As reconstructed clothing is becoming more widespread, it is also subject to definition. Personally, I think we should all have our own personal dictionaries that express our own unique use of language. While definitions provide clarity in communication, they also have an inherent tendency towards limitation.

Limitation is blasphemy in the dictionary of the creative mind! Blow it open!

Clothing is a very accessible form of art and self-expression. Think about it. You sculpt and paint yourself every day with the clothing you put on your body. Clothing defines who we are to the outside world, as well as to ourselves. At times there is comfort to be found in dressing in a manner that defines you as part of a commonly-known stereotype. However, on the path of life and self-actualization, shouldn’t you start defining this for your true self?

While not everyone can be their own fashion designer, you can start making more conscious choices. You can start demanding more of what you want to express yourself. You can start supporting local designers in your community over mass-produced mirror images of your neighbor. You can start combining clothes in unique ways. And finally, you can start cutting up those clothes and re-making them into completely unique clothes that work for you!

Clothes of a different color

The most common definition of reconstructed clothing is the practice of creating new clothes from existing garments. This can take on a wide variety of extremes. Many of the projects in this book fall into this category of reconstruction.

Some examples of this include the following:

Adding a simple hood to a jacket

Cutting the sleeves off a T-shirt

Shredding your sheets and turning them into a ruffled skirt.

Cropping a sweater

Creating a couture evening gown from an old duvet cover

Cutting the pant legs of your jeans to create “Daisy Dukes”

Doing the same thing, with a bit more discretion, to create long shorts/ short pants a la Dirty Dancing

This is a good method for people of all levels of sewing skill. It is especially helpful for creative types who don’t like to use patterns, like me! It is also helpful for those who have yet to figure out how to make patterns for their own designs.

By starting with an intact garment, the framework is already in place. It is this framework that is often boring for me in creating clothes from flat fabric (the “normal” way). Even with my own patterns, when I have to cut the same shape and sew the same seams repeatedly I feel like my soul is being sucked out of me. My pseudo-mass production limit is 10 pieces. I’m not much of a sweatshop!

Shop therapy!

I had a really bad breakup in my early twenties. Really bad! I found myself in a sea of not knowing who I was without my “boyfriend” and our pre-planned life together all spelled out for me. Ugh, even that sentence alone is just filled with societal definitions, expectations, and limitations! How did I handle it? Shopping! With my girlfriend in tow, or vice versa, I spent a ma- jor chunk of my student loan money for the semester in a single corporate-owned chain store! I walked out with nearly an entire new wardrobe, a virtual replica of the TV sitcom starlet of the times, as well as just about every other mainstream female age 18–35. I needed it. I needed the stability of some sort of definition of who I was, even if it wasn’t truly me! Clothing can provide this therapeutic function at times. There’s nothing wrong with that!

Don’t be fooled into thinking that starting with an intact garment makes clothing construction any easier! Patterns and instructions are laid out in a certain systematic order, like engineering. For this reason, it is actually much harder to alter a garment after its initial construction is complete. On the flip side, it is a lot more fun!

Mind-altering alterations

Sometimes clothing is just fine in its present form, but it just needs a little something. I usually come across people who just want a little pizzazz and individuality added to their garment. However, this may also be your choice of reconstruction to fix a poor fit, hide away stains or spruce up a worn ’n torn favorite piece.

With my sewing machine in the window front of my boutique, I am often asked that dreaded question, “do you do alterations?” While I like to help my neighbors and friends out with most quick-fix-its, it’s not all that exciting to my creative spirit to just take up a regular hem. My compromise has been to do what I call “creative alterations.” These types of interesting alterations are visible and thus take the garment to a new level of style. Some tricks to push it up a notch include:

Sewing a hem with contrasting color thread

Taking in a seam with the seam placed externally

Decorative patching on wear ’n tear

Decorative stitching on patches as well as on hems

Decorative painting over stains

This type of reconstructing clothing is exciting for all levels of skill and creativity. It is the best way for the novice to get started and get some practice with the basics of reconstruction. There are a lot of no-sew options with this method. For those who don’t have a machine, this type of reconstruction can allow for a little bit of hand-sewing to go a long way.

These little reconstruction touches are perfect for those pieces that you are on the fence about cleaning out of your closet!

Lots of clothing is functionally well-made and practical. But it can also be boring, not to mention looking exactly like every other piece that was mass-produced from the same factory! These types of less intense reconstruction techniques serve to elevate your ho-hum hoodie to a truly unique piece of self-expression!

Regretful give-aways

A couple friends of mine have a playful banter back and forth about clothing. They tease each other on who got the hottest new thing off the rack first (all local designer racks mind you!) They also hand things off to each other from time to time. Yay! Hand-me-downs for adults! Recently I did some creative alterations on a zip-up fleece for one of them. It was a beautiful color but huge and boxy and altogether boring! Turns out it was a hand-me-down from the other woman. A few weeks later she taunted her friend, “how’s that big old fleece working out for you?” She was utterly dismayed to hear about the fantastic new form it had taken. She, herself, could have been the proud new owner of this tricked-out fleece if only she’d remembered about reconstructing. Don’t let this happen to you — always remember the possibilities with creative alterations.

Clothing for cloth

I very rarely use this type of reconstruction, but it is a valuable option. This type involves dismantling the existing garment and salvaging the cloth for other projects. You may choose to do this for a variety of reasons:

The fabric is gorgeous but the garment is horrible

The garment shape is unable to be maintained due to style or other pitfalls

The garment is excessively large

The fabric is an oh so precious vintage

The fabric is of high quality, such as silks

The fabric has extensive beadwork or other embellishments that you would like to save

The garment has sentimental significance, but the style and fit are not for you

In taking apart existing clothing to make use of the fabric, the skill level needed depends highly on the intended project for it. Because the garment is being transformed first to flat fabric, the use of a flat pattern is appropriate, and thus familiarity with using patterns is helpful. However, there are several projects in this book that make use of flat fabric scraps in this way. Here’s a list to refer to:

Renaissance Repairs Pants — Chapter 9

Detachable Bustle Skirt — Chapter 9

Repetition Editions Jeans — Chapter 10

From Flat to Hat — Chapter 11

Whip Up a Wine Bag — Chapter 15

Freeform and Frill Skirt — Chapter 16

Casing Your Cozies Pillowcases — Chapter 18

Quintessential Quilt — Chapter 18

Sachet Simplicity — Chapter 19

Pragmatic Potholders — Chapter 19

Put Your Money Where Your Scraps Are Wallet — Chapter 20

What do you do when your heart can’t let go of a piece, but it can’t bear to watch it hang wastefully in the storage closet? In creating flat fabric from these pieces you can incorporate them into a quilt to curl up with and cherish those memories. I’ve heard examples of this done with retired work shirts and special occasion dresses.

This type of reconstructing clothing is actually a great way to learn about garment construction. By taking things apart you can figure out how they were put together!

Trash to treasure

There is still yet another form of reconstruction that takes it all to a whole new level. Turning trash into garments is a much more extreme form of reconstructing clothes. Basically, this technique involves recycling non-clothing items, trash, and refashioning it into articles of clothing and accessories.

For a variety of reasons, this particular method is not explored much among the projects of this book. From Garbage to Gorgeous in Chapter 20, is the only project that even remotely comes close to characterizing this method. Even then, its inclusion is debatable since the trash component is textile scraps.

While I have seen found objects and other “trash” items recycled into the decoration of a wearable clothing item or accessory, I have yet to see a fully recycled trash piece that is functionally wearable. Hence the reason why I haven’t presented projects of this sort for you in this book. The projects in this book are for wearing, using and re-using as much as possible!

Reconstructed trash pieces fall in a range closer to artwork than clothing. They make statements on recycling, often using small items that we never even think twice about tossing away:

Plastic grocery bags

Candy wrappers

Music cassette tapes

Bottle tops

Paperclips

CAUTION or DANGER tape used by police, firemen, and construction workers

Bicycle tire inner tubes

I must say that while these reconstructed pieces are intriguing and often whimsical, their lack in functionality leaves me wanting something more. I’d like to see functional pieces and practical uses of these recycled materials. Accessories and outerwear hold more hope for this, as their need for washing is significantly less than daily wear. I don’t mean to discourage you from experimenting with this method, but I do encourage you to make it as viable as you possibly can.

Just Who Do You Think You Are?

This book is written to reach a wide variety of people while still maintaining and honoring my own unique self and my community. In this section I will discuss a bit of my assumptions about who you might be as well. In this, you can read this book in a different light of understanding, taking pleasure in the points that are catered to your special needs, and thus having tolerance for seemingly unnecessary points meant for others. This section holds some specific messages for you that might not apply to every reader of this book. So pay close attention!

You are not a fixed entity! You may move between these groups at different points in your life, or you may be a combination of several at any single point in time!

The dabbler

You are a creative sort. You likely have a career, be it a job or other responsibility, that doesn’t necessarily make full use of your creative spirit. Therefore, you spend your extracurricular time doing things that fulfill this part of you. You are a hobbyist. You like to dabble in lots of different activities, or maybe specialize solely in textiles and crafts.

Your sewing skills may be limited, out-of-practice, or nonexistent. In the next few chapters I provide a brief refresher of these skills. I also mention a variety of other options in the “Variations” section of each project. You, in particular, are encouraged to explore the realm of these variations. If there is a new technique, such as silk-screening, that you are learning, I want you to feel free to play with it in these projects even if it is not mentioned. Heck, I don’t know everything!

The environmentalist

You are concerned about this planet and the waste we lay upon it. You live consciously. You continue to explore and make changes in your life to diminish waste. You recycle. You purchase products with minimal packaging to avoid even having to recycle it from the start. You are familiar with the terms “living green” and “sustainability.” This is a way of life for you, not just a hip new trend with a cute logo!

You likely know a lot more about the environment than I do. For a variety of reasons, I choose for my education to come from person-to-person sources and thus I am not always on top of the latest goings-on. Therefore I can almost guarantee that the points in this book are incomplete. Forgive me and feel free to inform me about it!

You may be a complete novice to sewing and crafts. For this reason I have included quick reference instructions on basic sewing skills and tools of the trade. I have made reference to a lot of techniques that you may not be familiar with, such as embroidery. I did this not to confuse you, but to open the door of possibility. I am a firm believer in awareness. If you don’t know what you don’t know you are unable to learn it.

The student

You are interested in clothing design as a career path. You may or may not have sewing and design skills yet. You see self-taught designers like myself and wonder “is fashion school necessary?” I am often asked this question and here are my responses (The following statements come only from my own experience. I am certain that there are exceptions):

It depends on your philosophy, heart and intent.

Personally, I don’t see an absolute need for fashion school. Ages ago, mentoring and apprenticing were the means of learning. Why they aren’t valued just as highly in our society is beyond me.

I’ve been sewing ever since I could hold a needle. My mom and grandma taught me. What they didn’t teach me, I taught myself. I figure things out. And someday, I might just take a pattern-making class to check in on those skills. I might just read that “Complete Book of Sewing” that I received last Christmas.

But is it necessary?

Obviously you need to learn certain skills, but school is just one of many ways to do this. I think that the difference (self-taught versus school) is in the comprehension and resulting adaptation of the skill. When one is taught in school, usually things are presented and perceived as the correct way with little exception. This applies to any area of study, not just fashion design. Lessons are like a recipe book of step 1, step 2, and so on. You just do it and get graded on how much you adhere to the rules. So within those hard and fast rules, where does the creativity come in?

A fashion school graduate once said to me, “the first thing they teach you in design school is that nothing is original. Everything has been done before.” Logically this argument is false. Unfortunately it yields ethical permission to copy. To further compound this, I’ve heard many students say that their fashion school teaches them to find inspiration and ideas by looking at other clothing. We certainly influence and inspire each other, but to be taught to seek it out and duplicate it in such a way really disturbs me.

This type of “inspiration” prohibits the evolution of fashion as an art form. I believe that clothing can be the most accessible form of art to the masses. Not only that . . . but it is a means of self-expression. Thus it needs to breathe and evolve rather than be stuck in a box of re-visitation and reinterpretation of design.

In the end, make sure you have a means to feed yourself, pay for shelter, and so on. Then follow your heart and create your heart’s vision. You will be happy.

The artist-designer

You have made clothing for yourself and for other people. You are well-versed in sewing and clothing construction skills. You may be in fashion school or a fashion school graduate and thus I may have insulted you in the previous section. Whoops! Like I said, I am certain that there are exceptions to what I have been exposed to. No hard feelings, eh?

You are reading this book to learn more about reconstructing clothing. You may be practiced in this and just looking for new ideas to play with. On the other hand, you may work strictly in pattern-drafting and therefore reconstructing clothing is completely new to you.

The patterns in this book are kept intentionally basic. This is done not only to make it easier for the novice, but also so that you can put your own creative spin on it. Whether you have a style all your own that you can incorporate, or you are interested in playing with variations to develop this style, I wholeheartedly encourage this personalization. With your unique clothing construction skills, you can even vary the patterns themselves to suit your own style.

The projects in this book are meant for individual use only, not for mass- production and/or for-profit!

Perusing This Book for Your Best Interest

This book is intentionally set up for easy use. It is most important to me that you leave it with an understanding of individual expression and conscious living. The projects are merely icing on the cake of reconstruction temptation!

Seriously, I hope for you to use this book in whatever way serves you best. In that, my goal of inspiring your individuality is achieved. Whether you choose to read it cover to cover is up to you.

There are a fair bit of anecdotal stories inserted within the text. These stories serve to provide examples from my life of the information being presented. They are “extra” and while not essential to completing the project, they are what drives and feeds me to continue creating this form of art. The people I’ve worked with express much appreciation for these stories and how they can relate to them. It helps to make this process human and well within your reach of success.

In this book I’ve presented some of the basics of taking things apart, washing care and sewing skills. If you are already competent in this, you are well-equipped to jump into the projects. If not, give it a good review and maybe even supplement your knowledge with Sewing For Dummies (Wiley).