Tennis For Dummies E-Book

Patrick McEnroe

• Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 705

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

Learn the basics of tennis so you can hit the courts, improve your game, and follow the pros

This updated edition of Tennis For Dummies takes you into the world of tennis today. You'll learn the history of the game, the rules, the latest gear, the hottest strategies, and everything else you need to know to get into this popular racquet sport. This easy-to-understand guide shows you what it takes to improve each time you step on the court, and puts you in the middle of the pro tennis action so you can enjoy the matches everyone is talking about. You'll learn to equip yourself with the right apparel, racquet, and accessories, so you're ready to play. Get tips for perfecting your strokes and shaping up with physical conditioning, plus dealing with common tennis injuries. You'll also explore the finer points of tennis etiquette, both on the court and as a spectator.

• Discover how the game of tennis is played, with helpful illustrations and court diagrams
• Master the mental game so you can get the most out of yourself each and every time you pick up a racquet
• Understand the rules of tennis, the varieties of the game, and the scoring system
• Learn about the most prominent players, matches, and tournaments

This is a great Dummies guide for readers who want to learn the basics of tennis, so they can go out and play, or enjoy watching tournaments in person or on television. Beginners who need a general introduction and current players who want to take their game to the next level will love the quick-and-easy tips inside.

Leseprobe

Tennis For Dummies®

To view this book's Cheat Sheet, simply go to www.dummies.com and search for “Tennis For Dummies Cheat Sheet” in the Search box.

Table of Contents

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Introduction

About This Book

Foolish Assumptions

Icons Used in This Book

Beyond the Book

Where to Go from Here

Part 1: Getting Started with Tennis

Chapter 1: What Is Tennis?

Tennis: The Sport for a Lifetime

Getting the Point: Singles, Doubles, and Winning at Both

Chapter 2: Meet Me on the Court

Court Dimensions

Court Surfaces

Chapter 3: Getting Geared Up

The Racquet: Your Trusty Weapon

Strings: The Overlooked Necessity

Lacing Up Your Tennis Shoes

Tennis Balls: Fuzzy, Yellow, and Short-Lived

Dressing for (Tennis) Success

Loading Up on Tennis Accessories

Chapter 4: Scoring in Tennis: Love Means Nothing

The Anatomy of a Match

Winning Points

Scoring Games

Scoring Sets

Scoring Matches

Alternative Scoring Systems

Reading Line Scores

Chapter 5: Rules and Regulations

Servin’ ’Em Up

Receiving the Serve

Trading Ends of the Court

Calling the Lines

Looking at Other Ways to Lose the Point

Stopping Play with a Let

Discovering Doubles Rules

Chapter 6: Tennis Etiquette

Respecting the Ball and Your Equipment

Keeping Track of the Score

Making Those Delicate Line Calls

Taking Two Serves

Showing Good Sportsmanship

Being a Supportive Doubles Partner

Ending the Match with Class

Part 2: Playing the Game

Chapter 7: Mastering the Fundamentals

The Basic Strokes

The Essential Grips

Working the Face of Your Racquet

The Elements of the Swing

Putting Shape on Your Shots

Key Components of a Perfect Swing

The Pre-Match Warm-up

Chapter 8: The Forehand: Your Money Shot

Finding Your Forehand Grip

Letting It Rip

Hitting with Topspin

Defending with the Slice Forehand

Chapter 9: The Backhand: A Perfect Complement

Understanding the Backhand’s Split Personality

Hitting the Two-Handed Backhand

Hitting the One-Handed Backhand

Dressing Up Your Backhand with Slice

Chapter 10: The Volley: An Exclamation Point

A Half-Stroke with Punch, Possibility, and Risk

The Volley Grip

Hitting the Forehand Volley

Hitting the Backhand Volley

Taking the Net: Getting There Is Half the Fun

Lifting Low Volleys and Half-Volleys over the Net

Adding Touch to Your Volleys

Swinging Volleys: Finishing with a Flourish

Chapter 11: The Serve: The Most Important Shot in the Game

The Ball Is Entirely in Your Hands

Serving Essentials

Preparing to Serve

Taking It One Step at a Time: The Serve Sequence

Hitting the Three Types of Serves

Chapter 12: Completing the Arsenal: Lobs, Overheads, and Drop Shots

Loving the Lob: An Underappreciated Asset

The Overhead: Smashing Success

The Drop Shot: Sneaky and Satisfying

Chapter 13: Winning Strategies and Tactics

Serving Up a Storm

Returning Serve

Riding Your Groundstroke to Victory

Netting Profits with Your Volley

Passing Shots

Winning Ways for Doubles

Outfoxing a Lefty

Part 3: Taking Your Game to the Next Level

Chapter 14: Enjoying Your Amateur Status

Finding Places to Pick Up a Game

Joining the U.S. Tennis Association

Creating a Universal Tennis Rating Profile

Getting into Unsanctioned Organized Competition

Chapter 15: Practice: The “P” Word

Off-Court Solo Practice

Starting Small with Mini-Tennis

Developing Skills with Practice Routines

Drilling Away at Success

Chapter 16: Physical Conditioning for Tennis

Stretching Your Game to New Heights

Bulletproofing Your Body: Getting Stronger and Protecting Against Injuries

Quickness Drills: Building Speed and Endurance

Eating Right and Fueling Your Body for Competition

Chapter 17: Handling the Physical and Mental Challenges of Tennis

The Little Aches and Pains

Bad Injuries Can Happen to Good Players

Treating Injuries

Keeping Injuries at Bay

The Game between the Ears

Chapter 18: Improving Your Game with Lessons

Understanding What Lessons Can (Realistically) Do for You

Finding Strength in Numbers

Hiring a Certified Pro for Private Lessons

Taking Your Chances with an Uncertified Pro

Maximizing the Efficiency of Your Hour

Mining Other Sources for Help with Your Game

Part 4: Tennis Aficionados Only

Chapter 19: The Pro Game

Alphabet Soup: The Governing Bodies in Pro Tennis

The Different Levels of Tournaments

Recent Innovations

Chapter 20: The Four Grand Slam Events and Cup Competitions

The Grand Slam: The Sport’s Crown Jewels

The Australian Open: Summer Down Under

The French Open: Terre Battue

Wimbledon: The Hallowed Grounds

The U.S. Open: Under the Lights in NYC

International Team Competitions: The Davis, Billie Jean King, Laver and United Cups

Chapter 21: Tennis from the Stands and On-Screen

Making the Most of Your Day at a Tournament

Watching Tennis on Television and Streaming Services

Viewing the Pros — like a Pro

Part 5: The Part of Tens

Chapter 22: Ten Tennis Tips

Watching the Ball

Moving Your Feet

Getting the Racquet Back Early

Turning Your Shoulders

Keeping Your Head Up When You Serve

Following Through

Using Your Hips with the Two-Handed Backhand

Stamping Out Bad Volleys

Pointing at the Overhead

Loosening Up Your Competitive Game

Chapter 23: The Ten Best Men Players of the Open Era

Andre Agassi

Björn Borg

Jimmy Connors

Novak Djokovic

Roger Federer

Rod Laver

Ivan Lendl

John McEnroe

Rafael Nadal

Pete Sampras

Chapter 24: The Ten Best Women Players of the Open Era

Margaret Court

Chris Evert

Steffi Graf

Justine Henin

Martina Hingis

Billie Jean King

Martina Navratilova

Monica Seles

Serena Williams

Venus Williams

Chapter 25: The Ten Greatest Matches of the Open Era

Björn Borg Defeats John McEnroe, 1980 Wimbledon

Martina Navratilova Defeats Chris Evert, 1984 U.S. Open

Monica Seles Defeats Steffi Graf, 1992 French Open

Pete Sampras Defeats Andre Agassi, 2001 U.S. Open

Serena Williams Defeats Venus Williams, 2003 Australian Open

Rafael Nadal Defeats Roger Federer, 2008 Wimbledon

John Isner Defeats Nicolas Mahut, 2010 Wimbledon

Novak Djokovic Defeats Rafael Nadal, 2012 Australian Open

Novak Djokovic Defeats Roger Federer, 2019 Wimbledon

Carlos Alcaraz Defeats Novak Djokovic, 2023 Wimbledon

Index

About the Authors

Advertisement Page

Connect with Dummies

End User License Agreement

List of Tables

Chapter 2

TABLE 2-1 Fast versus Slow Courts

Chapter 5

TABLE 5-1 Serve Rotation in a Doubles Tiebreaker

List of Illustrations

Chapter 2

FIGURE 2-1: The stock-in-trade of singles and doubles players.

FIGURE 2-2: Getting up close and personal with the court lines.

FIGURE 2-3: The centerline splits the service boxes into two sides — the ad sid...

Chapter 3

FIGURE 3-1: The components of a typical racquet frame.

Chapter 7

FIGURE 7-1: The racquet handle.

FIGURE 7-2: Sending the ball up, up, and away with an open face.

FIGURE 7-3: Your closed-face racquet drives the ball down.

FIGURE 7-4: Giving the ball a square deal.

FIGURE 7-5: When you’re hitting a groundstroke, the ball should travel in an ar...

FIGURE 7-6: Your racquet is the welcome wagon going out to meet the ball.

Chapter 8

FIGURE 8-1: You and your racquet are ready for action.

FIGURE 8-2: Turn and get your racquet back.

FIGURE 8-3: Stop your backswing when your arm is comfortably extended.

FIGURE 8-4: Begin your forward swing.

FIGURE 8-5: Finally, the moment of impact.

FIGURE 8-6: Your follow-through.

Chapter 9

FIGURE 9-1: The ready position for the two-handed backhand.

FIGURE 9-2: As the ball approaches, prepare for the stroke by getting your racq...

FIGURE 9-3: Step into the shot with your knees slightly bent.

FIGURE 9-4: As you bring your racquet forward to make contact with the ball and...

FIGURE 9-5: Get your racquet back while keeping your left hand on the racquet.

FIGURE 9-6: Make contact at a point out in front of your right hip, while your ...

FIGURE 9-7: Finish up high, with your arms extended in a line in opposite direc...

FIGURE 9-8: Hold your racquet at a 45-degree angle to the fence when you slice ...

Chapter 10

FIGURE 10-1: Preparation is key to hitting a good volley.

FIGURE 10-2: Turn your body as you punch out your volley.

FIGURE 10-3: With the one-handed backhand volley, step into the volley with you...

FIGURE 10-4: Getting way down low for a low volley.

Chapter 11

FIGURE 11-1: Setting up and getting ready to serve.

FIGURE 11-2: Get the ball down and in front of you as you prepare to toss.

FIGURE 11-3: Toss the ball in one smooth motion (A), ending up with your arm fu...

FIGURE 11-4: Getting into the back-scratcher position.

FIGURE 11-5: Reaching up and out for your serve.

FIGURE 11-6: The service follow-through goes across your body (A), carrying you...

FIGURE 11-7: The arc of a good flat serve.

Chapter 12

FIGURE 12-1: Keep your racquet way down, closer to the court.

FIGURE 12-2: Your racquet should point upward as you hit the ball, giving the b...

FIGURE 12-3: You must follow through with your lob as you do with all your shot...

FIGURE 12-4: Spot the ball like a good outfielder.

FIGURE 12-5: You should be fully extended when you make contact with the ball.

FIGURE 12-6: Follow through to the bitter end.

FIGURE 12-7: Take your racquet over your nondominant shoulder to prepare for th...

FIGURE 12-8: Meet the ball with your arm fully extended.

FIGURE 12-9: The overhead ends as you follow through.

Chapter 13

FIGURE 13-1: Targeting the best places to serve.

FIGURE 13-2: Getting your opponent into position to make the most of a second v...

Chapter 16

FIGURE 16-1: The overhead stretch works the shoulders and upper arms.

FIGURE 16-2: The hip-twist stretch opens up the lower back.

FIGURE 16-3: The calf stretch helps prevent calf injuries which become more fre...

FIGURE 16-4: Warming up with the hamstring stretch.

FIGURE 16-5: The stork quadriceps stretch hits the quads and tests your balance...

FIGURE 16-6: The five-ball pickup drill.

Chapter 17

FIGURE 17-1: The rotator cuff and the muscles that join your arm to your should...

FIGURE 17-2: What Superman sees when he looks at the human elbow.

Chapter 20

FIGURE 20-1: Melbourne Park, site of the Australian Open.

FIGURE 20-2: Suzanne Lenglen court at Roland-Garros.

FIGURE 20-3: The grounds at the All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, home of...

FIGURE 20-4: Arthur Ashe Stadium.

Guide

Cover

Table of Contents

Title Page

Copyright

Begin Reading

Index

About the Authors

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Tennis For Dummies®, 2nd Edition

Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com

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Library of Congress Control Number: 2025930730

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Introduction

I was about 3 years old when I first picked up a tennis racquet. More than 55 years later, I still haven’t let go. This incredible game had an amazing impact on me from the first day: I fell for it hook, line, and sinker. Or better yet game, set, and match.

Before I could ride a two-wheeler, I was hitting tennis balls against a wall, playing make-believe matches with Rod Laver and Ken Rosewall, who were two of tennis’s greatest stars at the time. I rode my tricycle to get to the tennis club.

Realizing my childhood dreams, I eventually worked my way up and played in the big leagues of tennis. Even after all these years in the sport, I still want to get out and hit some balls every day. Or almost every day — I’m approaching 60 after all.

You may wonder what keeps me interested in this sport, so interested that I’ve spent my life with it. More than anything, the thrill of hitting the perfect stroke, of having that day when it all just “clicks,” has kept the sport interesting and challenging for me every day I’ve played it.

I hope that tennis has the same effect on you. No matter where you stand on the tennis ladder in terms of ability and skill, there are always new challenges and new mysteries to solve. That’s why tennis is in my blood. With the help of this book, I hope it will get into yours, too.

About This Book

In tennis, everything is in motion, most of the time. The ball. Your opponent. You. Your state of confidence. Your grasp on a match. The already challenging job of developing a consistent stroke is made more difficult by the fact that you have to use that stroke while on the run, out of position, slipping, sliding, changing direction, and even falling or diving. The only thing you won’t have to do is hit that stroke with your eyes closed.

With everything happening so quickly on the court, you need a book like Tennis For Dummies to put the action in slow motion. In fact one of my favorite teaching techniques with players of all levels and ages is to help them learn how to slow down the swing. I think this really helps players understand how to control their racquet and, thus, better control their shots. How else can you grasp the fundamentals of the game? After you read this book and master the basics of your strokes, feel free to close your eyes and swing away.

Whatever your level of play, you’ll find what you need and want to know in this book. For the beginner, I cover the basics of the sport, showing you step-by-step how to play the fundamental shots. For the club player looking for a way to beat that opponent who always has your number, I include some secrets to help you be a more winning player.

If you’re a big fan of the pro game, I give you the skinny on the professional tennis tours. I tell you what to look for if you attend a real live pro event and how to maximize that ticket price. If you’re stuck at home, I tell you what to look for when you watch on a screen. It’s all here.

I grew up in a house full of left-handed people, so I know I’m going to get ribbed for this: I show you everything in this book from the perspective of a right-handed player. If you’re a lefty, please just substitute the word left for right in the appropriate spots in the text.

Finally, within this book, you may note that some web addresses break across two lines of text. If you’re reading this book in print and you want to visit one of these web pages, simply key in the web address exactly as it’s noted in the text, pretending as though the line break doesn’t exist. If you’re reading this as an e-book, you’ve got it easy — just click the web address to be taken directly to the web page.

Foolish Assumptions

You probably picked up this book for one of the following reasons:

You’re an absolute beginner and you want a straightforward and fun guide to learn everything you need to know about tennis.

We all have to start somewhere, and you’ve picked a great resource.

You’ve dabbled in tennis in the past and now you want to get back in the game, but you need a refresher.

Not only will this book help you brush up on all your strokes, but you’ll learn about all the changes in the sport since you last played.

You’re a coach or avid player and you want to add to your tennis book collection.

Even if you already have a solid foundation in the game, there’s bound to be useful nuggets in this update to increase your knowledge and understanding of the sport.

Icons Used in This Book

Throughout the book, I use icons in the margin to grab your attention. Here’s a guide to what the icons mean:

This icon marks the stories and insights I’ve picked up during my years in tennis.

The Tip icon makes your life as a player or a spectator easier and more rewarding.

This stuff is so important that I may repeat it a few times. I hope you wake up at night chanting this stuff.

Watch out for the information next to this icon — if you don’t, you could end up hurting yourself or really flubbing up your shot.

When I get into the weeds on a subject, I mark it with the Technical Stuff icon. You can skip anything marked with this icon if you’re short on time.

Beyond the Book

In addition to the information in this book, you get access to even more help and information online at Dummies.com. Check out this book’s Cheat Sheet for a diagram of the singles court, tips on how to play a tiebreaker, and essential tennis terms to know. Just go to www.dummies.com and type Tennis For Dummies Cheat Sheet in the Search box.

Where to Go from Here

You don’t have to read this book from cover to cover, taking care not to miss a single syllable. Of course, I will be very flattered if you do. But if you want to get in and out of the book quickly, you can pick it up, turn to any section that interests you, and start reading (kind of like skipping the meal and going straight to dessert). The great thing about this book is that you can pick it up anytime. You can read it and find out what you want to know about your game, even if you’re 20 miles from the nearest tennis court.

If you’re a complete beginner, I do advise you, however, to stop by Part 1, which covers some really fundamental concepts regarding the game. If you’re looking for help with particular shots, you should probably start in Part 2.

No matter where you start reading, keep your tennis racquet handy as you read — that way, you can play-test my advice as you go along. Think of this book as your guide to developing a lifelong passion for a great sport.

Part 1

Getting Started with Tennis

IN THIS PART …

I start you out nice and easy in this part of the book, giving you a firm foundation for exploring the rest of the game. You can read about the basic goals of the game, the structure of the court, all the equipment you need to make it happen, plus all the rules and manners you need to know to play the game like a pro.

Chapter 1

What Is Tennis?

IN THIS CHAPTER

Finding out why tennis is the greatest game of all time (okay, I’m biased)

Getting the basic gist of the game

So, you want to play tennis. Well, you’ve made a great choice! And I don’t say that just because I made the same choice when I was about 3 years old. Tennis can catch and hold you for life, so be warned! If you pick up a racquet to play tennis, you may never want to put it down.

In this chapter, I touch briefly on all the aspects of tennis that make it such a wonderful game (in case you need a little more convincing). I also tell you the fundamental principles behind the game.

Tennis: The Sport for a Lifetime

Many years ago, the United States Tennis Association (USTA) ran an ad campaign promoting tennis as “The Sport for a Lifetime.” This slogan wasn’t just a catchy phrase thought up by some advertising genius — tennis really is a game that you can enjoy long-term, both as a player and as a spectator.

I sat down and made up a quick list to show you why I believe that tennis can be the sport of a lifetime, for almost everyone:

You can play tennis, even competitively, at any age.

If time and work haven’t killed your inner weekend warrior, you can compete in organized tennis tournaments and league matches at virtually any age, at almost any skill level.

You don’t need to find 17 other people to play a game.

Unlike a sport such as baseball or softball, you need only one other person to play tennis (and if just want some practice, you can play by yourself, hitting against a wall). Of course, if you do have 17 other people who want to play tennis with you, then great — you can get a great tournament going. But you may need a few more balls!

You don’t need a whole bank full of money to play tennis. Tennis often gets labeled as an elitest sport. This truly rankles me because it doesn’t have to be. Sure, for professionals and top amateurs, tennis can be very costly, but at the recreational level, it’s a much different proposition. If you want, you can spend all day at the public courts without spending a nickel on anything other than some sunblock.

Because tennis can be a cheap game to get into, people from all kinds of backgrounds can get interested in (and get really good at) the game. Tennis isn’t just a game for people who can afford to pay $100 a pop for lessons. In fact, some of the greatest players in history, such as Andre Agassi and the Williams sisters, had pretty humble beginnings.

Tennis brings people together.

No, I’m not getting all sentimental on you — in tennis, people of different ages and genders can match up well as partners. For example, you can find yourself in a spirited mixed-doubles game along with your spouse, your grandson, and your daughter-in-law. The only thing you may have to worry about is initiating a family feud.

Playing tennis well gives you a sense of accomplishment.

Tennis is a skill-intensive sport. Like playing a musical instrument or learning a new language, playing tennis requires dedication to keep improving — which is what makes it so awesome. When you’re good at it, it’s very satisfying.

Tennis is a great way to keep fit.

Tennis has a high fitness rating, and you can dial in the degree of workout you want.

Getting the Point: Singles, Doubles, and Winning at Both

You can play tennis in one of two formats: singles or doubles. Singles involves two players, one on each side of the net, playing against each other. Doubles is just what the name implies — you’ve got four people on the court with two people playing as a team against another two-person team.

Singles is a more physically demanding game than doubles, for two reasons:

You get the intensity of one-on-one competition.

You have more court to cover all by yourself.

Regardless of whether you play singles or doubles, your goal is always the same: to win points. A point begins with a serve (see Chapter 11), which puts the ball into play. The player who keeps the ball in play the longest wins the point. How do you keep the ball in play? Read on, Grasshopper.

Racquet, balls, and an opponent

You don’t need much to play tennis, but there are a few essentials. First is a racquet. Racquets come in many different varieties, but all share some basic features (see Chapter 3). Finding one that suits you makes the game more fun and easier to learn. But the racquet won’t do you any good unless you’ve got something to hit. That’s where having some tennis balls — preferably fresh ones — comes in. They’re sold all over, and you’ll want to keep plenty around so you’re never caught without them. The final thing you need is a worthwhile playing partner of a similar ability level. You could just practice against a wall (see Chapter 15), but you’ll never win bragging rights.

Clearing the net

The biggest obstacle that you face on the tennis court is the net that divides the court into two sides — your side and your opponent’s side. The first thing you need to do, no matter how goofy you may look doing it, is to make sure that any ball you hit makes it back over the net. If the ball doesn’t clear the net, the point is over. You’ve lost it.

When we first started dating, my wife, Melissa, didn’t know much about tennis. Once during a close, important match, she called out between points, “Come on, Pat! Just get the ball over the net!” I looked at her like “Gee, thanks, honey!” But there it is — the fundamental truth about tennis.

Officially, the net must be 36 inches tall at the center strap. (See Chapter 2 for all the details on net and court measurements.) But even though 36 inches may not seem very high, I assure you that sometimes that darned net looks as tall as the Great Wall of China.

Keeping the ball inside the lines

Tennis is basically a game of controlled power. Ideally, you hit the ball pretty hard and pretty far, but it must always land inside the lines (or court boundaries) to remain in play. If you hit a ball and it first bounces outside the lines that define the singles or doubles court (see Chapter 2), you’ve lost the point.

One bounce only, please

Tennis would be a snoozer if all you had to do was clear the net and keep the ball inside the lines. The real degree of difficulty comes from this little kink: The ball can bounce only once on your side before you hit it. Of course, if you’re standing at the right place at the right time, you don’t have to let the ball bounce at all before you hit it. But more than one bounce, and you’ve lost the point.

Causing the ball to bounce twice on your opponent’s side wins you the point outright, which is called a winner. Winners are by far the most satisfying way to win a point. When I played, often my preference was to keep the ball in play until my opponent missed a shot, which is called an unforced error. Whether you smack a winner or your opponent makes a mistake, the points count the same. Cherish them for all they’re worth!

Scoring basics

The winner of a tennis match is almost always the player who wins more points. You win points when you hit winners or your opponent makes errors (for example, they hit the ball into the net or beyond the lines). You lose points because of your opponent’s winners and your errors.

In some cases, the winner of a match may have won just one single, solitary point more than their opponent. For example, when Pete Sampras and Goran Ivanišević met in the semifinals of Wimbledon in 1995, Sampras won with a grand total of 146 points to Ivanišević’s 145 points. It’s even possible for a player to lose more points than their opponent and still win the match! At other times, the victor may have won dozens more points than the loser. That’s the difference between a blowout and a nail-biter.

Chapter 2

Meet Me on the Court

IN THIS CHAPTER

Walking around the dimensions of the court

Looking at the different court surfaces

People make tennis courts out of all kinds of materials — only the dimensions of the playing surface stay the same from court to court. In this chapter, I show you around the court and explain all about the various types of courts you may encounter. I also explain how the different court surfaces can impact your game.

Court Dimensions

The tennis court, which you can see in Figure 2-1, is a rectangle measuring 78 feet long and 27 feet wide for singles and 36 feet wide for doubles. The doubles alleys (on either side of the singles court) account for the extra width of the doubles court. (See Chapter 5 for more information about playing doubles.)

Net height

The court is divided into two equal halves by the net, which is anchored to the net posts just outside the boundary lines that make up the court. The net is usually made of a soft, mesh material, and it customarily has an adjustment strap in the center; you use the adjustment strap to achieve regulation net height.

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

FIGURE 2-1: The stock-in-trade of singles and doubles players.

The net is supposed to be 36 inches high at the center strap and 42 inches high at either side of the court. Unfortunately, nets with center straps at some public courts are about as rare as basketball rims with nets! Not to worry. You don’t really need a center strap. Just take a tape measure and check the center height of the net. If it’s below 36 inches, raise the net by using the crank on one of the net posts. If it’s above 36 inches, turn the crank to lower the net. Don’t worry about the height at the sides. When the net is 36 inches high at the center, you’ll be fine. All that said, there’s no need to get crazy about the net height. As long as it looks reasonably close, play ball.

NO PLAYING IN THE ALLEY

Occasionally, you may see (or even play on) a dedicated singles court, a court without doubles alleys. Although most singles games are played on a court also designed for doubles, you can’t play doubles on a dedicated singles court, which is why so few of them exist. You may also come across some courts that have singles sticks (wooden sticks used to raise the net height to the 42-inch regulation on the singles sidelines on courts with a doubles alley). Singles sticks essentially serve as net posts, but these are for real sticklers and aren’t required to play.

Line measurements

The baselines define the farthest end of the court on both sides of the net (see Figure 2-2). The baselines are the same regardless of whether you’re playing singles or doubles.

Right smack in the middle of the baseline, you see a small hash mark, which divides the court into two equal parts. The center hash mark becomes important when you serve (see Chapter 11).

The lines at the longer sides of the rectangle are called the sidelines. The sidelines are the only boundary lines that differ for singles and doubles. The singles sidelines run parallel to and inside of the sidelines created by the doubles alleys.

Inside the court you find the service lines, which are perpendicular to the sidelines and parallel with the baselines and the net. The service lines are 21 feet from the net, and each service line is divided in half by a centerline. The centerline lines up perfectly with the hash mark that divides the baseline.

The service lines, the centerlines, and the net create four distinct boxes, which are called the service boxes. You find two service boxes on either side of the net, each service box measuring 21 feet long and 13½ feet wide.

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

FIGURE 2-2: Getting up close and personal with the court lines.

DON’T HEM ME IN

Using different sidelines for singles and doubles may seem confusing, but don’t worry — nobody, not even a beginner, has any trouble focusing on the correct sidelines for the game they’re playing. It’s a snap, I promise you. You may also come across courts with lines for 10 and Under (10U) tennis, which has a shortened area for young juniors, or even lines for pickleball. All these lines may seem to give the court a more chaotic appearance, but none of it gets in the way when you’re playing regulation tennis.

On each side of the net, the centerline divides the service boxes into an ad side and a deuce side, as shown in Figure 2-3. When you serve from the deuce side of the court, your serve needs to clear the net and land inside your opponent’s deuce-side service box when you keep score (see Chapter 11 for the details on serving). And when you serve from the ad side, the ball must land inside your opponent’s ad-side service box.

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

FIGURE 2-3: The centerline splits the service boxes into two sides — the ad side and the deuce side.

Court Surfaces

Tennis court surfaces come in three main flavors: hard, clay, and grass. Each surface offers its own unique qualities. Surfaces even have different colors, smells, and feels. Most important, each surface treats the ball differently, depending on how soft or hard the surface is and the material from which it’s made.

A tennis ball bounces higher off a hard surface than a soft one. If you don’t believe me, take a tennis ball out to the sidewalk. Drop the ball from waist height on the pavement, noticing how high the ball bounces. Then do the same on the grass right next to the sidewalk. (You may want to wait until it gets dark to try this little experiment; otherwise, you may get some strange looks from the neighbors.)

The different court surfaces also impact both how high and how fast the ball bounces. A soft, gritty surface like clay “grabs” a ball momentarily as it bounces, and the friction slows it down. This often results in a fairly high bounce. Cement is a hard surface. A ball dropped onto a cement court from above may bounce high, but when it meets the surface with some velocity, at an angle, it skids off and keeps going before it can bounce very high. A ball will always bounce low on grass, but it won’t slow down very much even though grass is a soft surface. That’s because grass is very slick and slippery. But that shouldn’t concern you too much, because tennis is rarely played on grass anymore.

Low bounce, high bounce, hard or soft surface — what’s the big deal? Imagine that you’re on the strangest tennis court ever built — half of the court is cement, and the other side is clay. A ball machine fires balls to both sides of the court. The machine throws all balls with the same speed and force, and you stand at the baseline. Your task is to start at the centerline and run out to catch the ball after it bounces on the appropriate side of the court. When a ball hits the clay side, it bounces right up and slows down a little, and you don’t have to move too fast to get to and catch the ball. When the ball hits the cement side, it skids away with a lower bounce, and you really have to motor to get to the ball and catch it. In other words, court surface can have a major impact on how you play.

TESTING THE SPEED OF THE COURT

Whenever you play at a court new to you, hit a few balls around at the very start just to get a feel for the surface speed, or ask the other players about the court’s surface properties. The speed of the court will affect the timing you use in your strokes, and how quickly you’ll need to move to the ball to be on time to make good returns.

When you’re used to a court of a certain speed and leave it to play on one that is significantly slower or faster, it may take you up to 20 minutes to adjust your timing and movement to the new surface.

Simply stated, you generally have to move faster to get to the ball on hard surfaces. However, the surer footing compared to a loose surface like clay is why some players find it easier to move on a hard court. This confusing truism leads to some even more confusing tennis terminology (see Table 2-1).

TABLE 2-1 Fast versus Slow Courts

Surface

Speed

Explanation

Hard (hard courts, grass courts, most synthetic courts)

Fast

The surface increases ball speeds, so you really have to move it in order to get to the ball when you play on a hard court.

Soft (clay courts, some synthetic courts)

Soft

The surface slows the ball down, so you don’t have to move as fast, but you may have to play harder or longer. You also end up running a lot because it’s easier for both players to get to the ball in time and return it, which keeps a point going longer.

Real tennis fanatics refer to how slow or fast a court is as the court’s speed. If I ever hear you talk like that, I’ll know that you’ve really caught the tennis bug — or, even better, you’ve read this book.

So, you can see that a court’s surface can have a big impact on your game. If you have the opportunity to play on different types of surfaces, you may find that your shots are better on some courts than others. For example, if you like to play aggressively, hitting as hard as you can within the lines, you may find that the speed of a hard court makes your shots that much harder to get to and return. Or if you prefer to play more conservatively or with lots of spin, placing each shot on your opponent’s court with consistency and a surgeon’s precision, you may find that a soft court enables you to wear an opponent down because of all the energy they have to use to run down one shot after another.

YEAH, BUT WHY WOULD YOU EVER DO THAT?

Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal once played an exhibition match in which half the court was grass (Federer’s favorite surface) and the other half was clay (Nadal’s favorite surface). Check it out on YouTube. It’s wild. Talk about needing to make adjustments on the fly!

PROS HAVE A PREFERENCE WHEN IT COMES TO COURT SURFACES

The four preeminent tournaments in tennis, the Grand Slam events — the Australian Open, the French Open, Wimbledon, and the U.S. Open — are played on different types of surfaces (although the Australian Open and the U.S. Open are contested on similar hard courts, with balls bouncing slightly lower and faster in New York). As you see at these tournaments, even top players can be aided or stymied by a court surface.

For example, the great Pete Sampras won three of the four Grand Slam titles at least two times apiece, but he never even reached the final of the French Open. The popular German player Boris Becker never won the French title either; in fact, although Becker won more than 50 pro tournaments in his career, he didn’t win a single one of them on clay.

Hard courts: Tried and true

Americans are a practical people who like standardization. That’s why we invented fast-food joints that serve an identical burger in New York and Seattle and all points in between. That’s why we invented the assembly line. We also invented tennis on hard courts with similar, practical goals.

Hard courts are versatile and virtually maintenance free. Hard courts last and last, through all types of weather. Depending on conditions and usage, it can take many years before it needs resurfacing. The practicality of the surface has made it the most widely used throughout the world. Essentially, the hard court is not the Tesla of tennis courts — it’s the Honda Accord.

The majority of hard courts are faster than clay courts but slow enough to give you plenty of time to swing before the ball gets by you.

Builders can also fine-tune hard courts, making them play relatively faster or slower. They modify the court speed by mixing greater or lesser amounts of a granular substance, like sand, into the cement before it’s poured. The more grainy the cement, the slower the hard court will play.

Court designers also mix rubber compounds into the cement or use rubber compounds to coat the surfaces of hard courts. Rubber can be used to make a court slower, but it also provides valuable cushioning, which reduces wear and tear on the joints and bones.

Regardless of how much a hard court has been modified with sand or rubber or not, it provides a good surface for developing your game, for the following reasons:

You get a true bounce:

Because the surface of hard courts is smooth, you can expect a reliable bounce, unless the court is covered with litter or cracks. The lines on a hard court are painted on, so you get a true bounce even when you hit the lines. (On clay, surface irregularities can also produce frequent irregularities in the bounce.)

They offer an acceptable speed limit.

Most hard courts built these days are slow enough to let you work on your consistency, but fast enough to reward you with a winner when you hit a good shot near the line. The slower the court, the more chance your opponent has of running down your shots.

They’re ready whenever you are:

You can play on a hard court almost any time, even after a torrential rainstorm (provided that a court squeegee — or snow shovel — is available). I kid you not. People often shovel snow from hard courts in order to play. As long as you leave the net up, a hard court is always ready to go.

The disadvantages of hard courts are minor, especially for beginners:

They’re tougher on the body.

Most hard courts can be tough on your joints and muscles if you play hard and frequently.

They can run hot.

Hard courts reflect heat and glare, making them less appealing to play on during bright, hot days.

Keep the following tips in mind to make playing tennis on hard courts more comfortable and beneficial:

Wear tennis shoes with an appropriate amount of cushioning.

Many shoe manufacturers offer shoes designed for use on hard courts, just as they once made light shoes with nubbly bottoms for play on slick grass.

Wear quality socks.

Socks that offer extra cushioning at the heels and around the toes are especially good.

Use the right balls.

The hard, abrasive surface of hard courts calls for the use of extra-duty balls with dense, durable felt covering. You can read more about such balls in

Chapter 3

.

Avoid sudden starts, stops, and changes of direction until you’re well warmed up.

Hard surfaces are less forgiving than soft ones, so take a little more time to work up your full head of playing steam. You can read more about warming up in

Chapter 7

.

Pay attention to the height of the bounce.

The slower the hard court, the higher the ball bounces. Adjust your swing to the height at which you end up playing most balls.

Synthetic surfaces

One result of the tennis boom of the ’70s and ’80s was an explosion of new synthetic surfaces designed for tennis courts. Better living through modern technology, right?

These new surfaces were developed partly to accommodate the burgeoning pro game that was invading arenas (like Madison Square Garden), which were usually reserved for basketball or hockey. They were also designed for use in the growing industry of indoor tennis.

If you live in a climate with cold winters, the indoor tennis facilities in your neck of the woods probably have synthetic surfaces. They’re essentially hard courts. They’re built on a solid base — generally asphalt or concrete — and covered with various materials such as rubber, acrylic, and silica. The composition of the top layer dictates the court’s playing characteristics. Synthetic courts are often softer and more cushioned than the typical outdoor hard court found in public parks or schools.

Some synthetic courts come in sections that are pieced together and set up for a tennis match in a matter of hours. Because of their quick assembly and dismantling, these surfaces tend to be used in arenas for professional events or exhibitions. They’re made either of rubber-based compounds or durable synthetic fibers like the nylons and polyesters that you find in industrial carpeting or indoor-outdoor carpeting. However, it’s quite rare to find these types of courts in recreational settings.

Two of the rarer synthetic surfaces are plastic grids and synthetic grass. The grids are made in interlocking (rather than roll-up) sections that snap together, kind of like the waffle-pattern flooring used in the kitchens of restaurants. Synthetic grass uses fake grass fibers made of plastic with a top dressing of sand to adjust the speed of the court. You may come across these types of courts in tropical resort settings or places looking to set up a functioning, temporary court. Again, not common for the day-to-day player.

Playing indoors, although it can be costly, gives you as close to perfect conditions as you can get, for the following reasons:

You don’t have to contend with the elements.

Factors like sun and wind play no part indoors. These idyllic conditions allow the ball to travel through the air more quickly.

You get good lighting and a non-distracting background.

Indoor courts usually have specially designed lighting systems and solidly colored background curtains, creating ideal playing conditions. The netting that many indoor courts use between courts eliminates time wasted chasing down balls or returning them to players on other courts.

You get a true bounce.

Indoor hard courts are usually very well kept, meaning that you won’t find cracks or bumps in the court that could foul up your shot.

To get the most out of playing on synthetic surfaces, make sure that you warm up before you play. This gives you a chance to find out how fast the court surface is, so you don’t get an unpleasant surprise when you start play.

Clay: Slow and tricky

The majority of clay courts are found in Europe. Red clay is far and away the most popular in this category. If you’ve ever watched the French Open at Roland-Garros, you’ve seen a prime example of red clay courts. (Chapter 20 tells you all about the French Open.) Green clay is much more popular in the United States, particularly in spots like the Northeast, Florida, and the Carolinas.

Clay courts are generally not actually made of clay. They have a solidly packed base of stone or gravel with a layer of smaller and looser pieces on top to help facilitate drainage. On top of the gravel is a third layer, called the dressing. This dressing is granular, made from pulverized sandstone or a similar, shale-type stone. The dressing is packed down, but it remains granular and easily dislodged. It’s the use of crushed red brick for the dressing that gives red clay courts their distinctive color.

Clay courts need a lot of TLC. They need to be rolled to evenly distribute and pack down the dressing. Otherwise, it may blow away in the wind. Rolling also helps eliminate the irregularities in the surface that could lead to erratic bounces. The dressing has to be topped off now and then, but an overapplication makes the court more suitable for beach volleyball than tennis. During dry, sunny weather, clay courts also need to be watered as often as two or three times a day to keep them in ideal shape. Without sufficient water, clay courts get baked by the sun. The dressing blows away easily in the breeze, and the natural irregularities that develop with use create an abundance of maddening bad bounces.

CLAY REQUIRES RITUAL CLEANSING

When you play on a clay court, it’s customary to roll, sweep, and even water the court before your game. It may sound like a chore, but it’s a pretty nice ritual, getting the court ready to play. The great Rafael Nadal is frequently spotted sweeping the courts when he has finished a practice session on clay. A court swept free of irregularities or marks (balls hit with any force leave a distinct smudge on a clay court) can make you feel like you’re the first person ever to set foot on it. Just remember to sweep the lines, too.

Unlike hard courts, where the lines are painted on, the lines on a clay court are typically made of vinyl tape that is nailed into the porous surface. Even when installed perfectly, they’re never completely flush. So your footwork around the lines may call for a little extra caution. Also, balls that hit the lines on a clay court have even more erratic bounces and often speed up after contact. They can skid right by you or jump up above your head.

Clay is a slow court surface, although factors like dryness and a lack of dressing can make clay play significantly faster. But unless the court is truly in dire straits, clay is a slower court surface than even the slowest of hard courts.

The vast majority of public courts in the United States are hard courts, which are great for developing your game. But if you’re lucky enough to have access to clay courts, I give them a slight edge over even hard courts for laying the foundations of your game, for the following reasons:

Clay courts are user-friendly.

The inherent softness of clay courts helps protect you from stresses, strains, and injuries. Over the long haul, they’re much kinder to your body than hard surfaces.

Clay courts help you keep the ball in play.

Because clay is a slow surface, you can get to more balls and have more opportunities to hit them back than you can on faster court surfaces. In a typical one-hour practice session, you hit more balls on a clay court because you keep more balls in play. Hitting more balls helps keep the game interesting. It also enables you to improve faster.

Clay courts make you consistent.

Clay is the best surface for mastering the consistency of your

groundstrokes

— the forehands and backhands that are the bread and butter of the game (see

Chapters 8

and

9

). The longer points also teach patience and the value of making your opponent hit one more shot. The most consistent players of all — including Björn Borg, Chris Evert, and Rafael Nadal — grew up on clay courts. (Although Evert is American, she grew up in South Florida, a mecca of clay courts.)

HAR-TRU: CLAY BORN IN THE USA

Red clay courts can be found in the United States, but they’re in short supply. The majority of red clay courts are in tennis clubs or resorts.

Americans with feet of clay tend to play on the gray-green Har-Tru court, which is a clay court made from slightly different materials than you find on red clay courts. Har-Tru courts are popular, although never as abundant or accessible as hard courts.

Har-Tru courts are slightly faster than red clay courts, but the difference, especially to beginners, is negligible. The reason Har-Tru is more prevalent than red clay is a practical one: The courts are cheaper and easier to maintain. Har-Tru requires less attention, rolling, and water, and it dries faster when wet. After a heavy downpour, it can take a while to nurse a red clay court back to health.

Clay courts can help you get fit.