Torchon Lacemaking E-Book

Jan Tregidgo

• Herausgeber: Crowood
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 280

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2015

Beschreibung

Torchon lacemaking is a textile art steeped in tradition - the skills required are often perceived to be beyond the reach of ordinary mortals. In this practical book, Jan Tregidgo describes those skills through a step-by-step guide and makes them accessible to all. She explains traditional techniques through a series of specially designed samplers, which can be worked in order by the beginner or in any order they choose by the more experienced. Although colour is not traditional in bobbin lace, it has been used here to great effect so the path of each thread can be clearly followed through the sampler.

Leseprobe

TORCHON LACEMAKING

A step-by-step guide

JAN TREGIDGO

THE CROWOOD PRESS

First published in 2010 by

The Crowood Press Ltd

Ramsbury, Marlborough

Wiltshire SN8 2HR

www.crowood.com

This e-book published 2015

This impression 2012

© Jan Tregidgo 2010

Jan Tregidgo has asserted her right under the Copyright, Design and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as the author of this work.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers.

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 1 78500 067 6

All photographs and diagrams by the author

FrontispieceAll the left legs have passed through the right legs of the spider.

Dedication

This book is dedicated to my Mum, Dad and Grandma.

Contents

Acknowledgements

Introduction

1

Equipment and Materials

2

Preparations

3

Samplers

4

Adding Beads to Bobbin Lace

5

Designing and Adapting Lace Patterns

6

Joining and Mounting Lace

7

Troubleshooting

Appendix 1: Dotted Paper

Appendix 2: Safe Working Practices

Bibliography

Museums with Lace Collections

Useful Addresses

Index

Acknowledgements

I feel privileged to have been taught to make bobbin lace at a weekly class by Miss E Dawson of Speen (as she was always known) and since 1982 by Margaret Tite. Mrs Tite has been a total inspiration and a constant friend as well as my teacher.

As a trained teacher myself, I have always wanted to pass on the knowledge I have learnt over the years. I was therefore delighted and yet apprehensive to be commissioned to write this book. I was supplied with Venus threads for all the sampling by Maarten Timmers of The Stitch Company. His company is the European Distributor of Venus Threads. The designing of all the patterns and diagrams was made simpler by the use of Lace R-XP, a computer program. I am indebted to Ian Lawson-Smith of ilsoft who supplied the program.

I have been fortunate to have many lace students, past and present, and lace friends, who have tested my samples, read my text, checked my photographs and diagrams and encouraged me. Special mention must go to my lace class at Lee-on-the-Solent who have all been particularly helpful and understanding.

Kathy Corbett has been a constant encouragement and support throughout the whole project. Kathy was, in fact, the first lacemaker I met and I’m very grateful to her and for her friendship over the years.

My thanks, above all, must go to my very understanding husband Stephen, who has been a lace widower for many years and who is responsible for encouraging me to teach bobbin lace back in the 1980s.

Jan Tregidgowww.tregidgo.com/jan

‘I have taught Jan Tregidgo for many years and I wish her every success with this book.’

Margaret Tite, 2010

Introduction

It is always satisfying to teach total beginners on weekend courses but they have always needed more than my handouts to refer to once they return home. Even weekly classes can often seem a long way off when you are a beginner and need reassurance or just that reminder. I was therefore delighted to have been asked to write a new approach to torchon lacemaking.

Many traditional lacemakers do not want to use colour in their lace; however, for the beginner, colour is exceedingly helpful. It is possible to follow the threads and to see where they are going. An experienced lacemaker is able to ‘read’ a piece of lace and understand it, but the beginner can find this difficult.

This book, however, is not only for the total beginner. There are clear explanations of techniques in the text, and there are many photographs and diagrams to help lacemakers of all abilities. Some people prefer words and some prefer pictures – I hope that I have catered for all types of learner. Throughout the book, there are hints and tips on learning best practice in order to give all lacemakers good foundations for their future lacemaking.

The first part of the book covers equipment and materials needed and the preparation before lacemaking can begin. There are then twenty-five separate samplers, which, if worked in sequence, will ensure that the lacemaker has a through grounding in torchon lacemaking techniques.

These samplers are lavishly illustrated with photographs and diagrams to ensure that step-by-step instructions are clearly understood. There are also extra patterns which can be worked to apply the techniques learnt. It is advisable to work each pattern in colour and then in white or a single colour. This will help to reinforce the lessons learnt.

The last part of the book covers some interesting topics. Adding beads to lace is very straightforward and can be used to create jewellery. As confidence grows, lacemakers may want to start designing their own patterns, and ways to do this are included. Joining and mounting lace can be challenging; these topics are covered along with a troubleshooting section.

1 Equipment and Materials

In order to make bobbin lace, the lacemaker will need basic equipment and materials such as a lace pillow, lace bobbins, pins, lace pricking and thread. To start with, these items will be new to the beginner, but their uses and a description of each will follow. For clarity these items are listed under two categories – equipment and materials.

Equipmentrefers to those items that can be used many times, such as lace pillows or bobbins. (Broken items may need replacing, such as broken bobbins or bent pins.)

Materialsare consumables, which will run out and need to be replaced, such as thread, pricking card or beeswax.

Other items are very useful and will be described, but the beginner would be well advised to purchase items only as they become necessary. A teacher or a local lace group may have second-hand equipment available for sale. Contact the Lace Guild (seepage 239) for addresses.

Equipment

Lace pillows

A lace pillow is the surface on which the pricking is placed. The lace stitches are then worked on it, and pins are positioned to secure the lace. Traditionally a lace pillow was made of hessian or canvas stuffed with chopped beaten straw. This created a very firm, solid surface for pins to stick into. It is still possible to purchase traditional barley straw stuffed lace pillows but these are naturally more expensive than those made of polystyrene.

Polystyrene pillows are generally made of high-density polystyrene and covered in fabric with an MDF base. EHD (extra-hard density) polystyrene, which is used in the aircraft industry, is also available.

It is always advisable to buy the largest pillow that you can afford, ensuring, however, that it is comfortable for you to use. You must be able to reach the centre of the pillow without strain. Pillows are made with a domed or flat surface, and can be round or square with rounded corners. They come in many different sizes.

Bobbin lace is made in many countries and there are many different types of pillows and lace bobbins. However, for the torchon bobbin lace described in this book, the following pillows are the most useful.

The basic polystyrene round pillow

This is ideal for a beginner, being inexpensive to purchase and light to carry. It is generally about 40 centimetres in diameter and has a domed top. It is necessary to cover the pillow with a removable washable cloth.

The shape of these pillows is suited to making short sample bookmarks or motifs. To make edgings or handkerchiefs it is advisable to use a block pillow (see below) or to constantly ‘move up’ the lace as you work (seepage 234). The basic polystyrene round pillow is good for the beginner to have a go on, and see if bobbin lace is for them without spending too much.

Block pillows

A block pillow is very useful for making continuous lengths of lace and for turning corners. These pillows are made from polystyrene with an MDF or wooden base and are covered with fabric. The centre of the pillow has removable blocks (also covered) which can be moved as necessary. Block pillows are made in various sizes. The blocks are available as squares or as half blocks (rectangles) making them very versatile to use. Extra blocks can also be purchased allowing the lacemaker to use the same pillow for various different lace patterns. Some suppliers will supply a roller to fit in a block pillow, making it even more versatile (see roller pillows, below).

Roller pillows

A roller pillow can also be very useful for continuous lengths of lace. It has a roller around which the pricking is pinned (seepage 24 for details on preparing the pricking for a roller pillow). As the lace is worked the roller is turned around and the lace is unpinned, thus freeing the pricking to be used again as the roller rotates.

(A) block pillow; (B) fan pillow; (C) basic round polystyrene pillow; (D) roller pillow.

Fan pillow

These pillows are particularly useful when making a large mat or motif. The central round flat pillow can revolve, bringing the pattern closer to the lacemaker and also allowing the bobbins to rest on the outer part of the pillow. The central round flat pillow is also removable and can be used on its own.

Travel pillow

These come in all shapes and sizes. Lace suppliers have devised ingenious ways to allow lacemakers to take their pillows on their travels. Some of these pillows have small ‘working’ areas and require the use of travel bobbins.

Cover cloths for lace pillows

Cover cloths are used to protect the pricking and also to cover the work when not in use. (seepage 23 for their use.) They are generally made from dark blue or dark green closely woven cotton or linen. These colours are used to help reduce eye strain. It is useful for the beginner to have at least two cover cloths, approximately 45 centimetres square. Do ensure that they are hemmed and ironed before use. Larger ones will be needed with the different shaped pillows. A clean pressed tea towel can be used to cover and protect the pillow when not in use. It is sensible to wash and press your cover cloths before starting a new piece of lace.

(A) foreign bobbins; (B) Bucks Thumper; (C) Honiton; (D) modern ebony bobbin with pewter inlay; (E) modern ebony bobbin with silver wire decoration; (F) antique wooden bobbin with pitted decoration; (G) homemade dowelling bobbin stained with dark oak stain; (H) beginner’s-quality bobbin; (I) plastic bobbin; (J) plastic bobbins.

Parts of a bobbin: (A) head; (B) neck; (C) shank; (D) tail end and spangle.

Lace bobbins

Lace bobbins hold the thread when making the lace. They are wound in pairs (see Winding bobbins on page 20) and a pattern generally lists the number of pairs of bobbins required.

Lace bobbins come in all shapes and sizes and are made in a variety of materials. The English-style bobbins, known as East Midlands bobbins, are the most beautiful and attract a lot of attention. They have a spangle at the end (a ring of wire with beads). Continental bobbins vary in shape and size but generally have a bulbous end as a weight rather than a spangle. There is an English traditional bobbin known as a Bucks Thumper, which is similar to the continental type, as it is not spangled.

The purposes of the lace bobbin are to hold enough thread to work on a project, and to apply the correct tension to the thread.

The bobbins must therefore have:

A smooth surface to ensure that the thread does not snag or get worn (rub with a little wire wool to smooth wooden bobbins if necessary).

A long neck to hold the thread.

A suitable head to hold the hitch knot which secures the thread on the bobbin.

Enough weight to act as a tension for the thread when hanging from the work.

Materials used for making bobbins

Plastic and Nylon These bobbins are functional and cheap. Do ensure that you check each one carefully for any rough edges before you use them. Rough edges can be sanded down.

Wood In the past, the bobbin-maker would use locally available wood, mostly fruit. A wide variety of wood is now used for modern bobbins.

Bone These can be beautifully decorated or plain and are a delight to use.

Glass Modern glass bobbins are available in many colours and with interesting inserts.

Ivory It is possible to find beautiful antique bobbins made of ivory.

Other materials (silver, brass, aluminium, acrylic) These are more unusual materials and in some cases will be heavier and will therefore affect tension.

Commemoratives

These are particularly popular to remind lacemakers of special events. They are generally made from wood or bone. Commemorative bobbins can be purchased at lace fairs or lace days, commemorating that lace fair or national events such as a royal wedding or a new Government in power or a favourite football team winning the FA cup! Commemoratives can be ordered and specially made to remind lacemakers of lace weekends or classes they have attended, or special events in their lives such as births, marriages, anniversaries and other achievements.

For beginners it is best to buy ‘quantity’, not necessarily ‘quality’, and then later to purchase bobbins as required which are more beautifully crafted and naturally more expensive. The beginner would be well advised to purchase twenty pairs (forty bobbins) in plastic or plain wood to be used to work the early patterns in this book. Many bobbin-makers create a ‘beginner’ pack of this type of bobbin (see list of suppliers, page 239).

Commemorative bobbins in the author’s collection: (A, B and C) commemorating Portsmouth Football Club’s FA Cup win in 2008; (D) celebrating a wedding – note the wedding bell spangle; (E) celebrating a pearl wedding anniversary; (F) antique bone bobbin with ‘David’ marked on it; (G) antique bone bobbin with ‘Father’ marked on it; (H) celebrating family events; (I) attending a lace class – straight inscription; (J) attending a lace class – twisted inscription; (K) celebrating a special lace class taken by Margaret Tite; (L) Summer School bobbin.

Make your own bobbins

Dowelling bobbins can be turned on a home lathe or whittled into shape. (See Bibliography for books on turning bobbins.) Paper bobbins have been designed by various lacemakers, and can be a useful and very economical option. They are not a long-term option, however, and are not as comfortable to use as wooden bobbins.

Spangling bobbins

Midlands-type bobbins need to be spangled before use. A spangle is a circle of wire with beads on it attached to the bottom of the bobbin. Generally there are nine beads on the spangle, including a larger bead in the centre. Several bobbin-makers sell their bobbins spangled, but some purchased or homemade bobbins will be ‘unspangled’. In order to spangle these bobbins, spangling wire and beads are needed. It is possible to buy readymade spangles on a circle of wire. There are various methods of spangling bobbins, but the main aim is to thread the beads on the ring of wire and attach this neatly through the hole at the base of the bobbin. Once spangled, ensure that the ends of the wire are cut neatly and will not catch on threads. To spangle a bobbin you will need brass or stainless-steel spangling wire, a selection of beads, small-nosed pliers and side cutters.

The beads have been threaded on the wire, which has then been passed through the hole at the base of the bobbin. This wire will be tightened up and wound around to secure the spangle.

Pins

Pins are used to secure the lace stitches into position on the pricking card (see Materials below) on the pillow. They are available in many different sizes and for the more experienced lacemaker it is important to use very fine pins for floral Bedfordshire or Bucks Point patterns in which the pin holes are very close together and a very fine thread is being used. The beginner will find it easier to use thicker pins, which are less likely to bend and easier to use.

Pins are made of stainless steel, brass or nickel-plated. Suppliers advise lacemakers not to leave nickel-plated steel pins in their pillows for long periods and also to avoid using emery-filled pin cushions (see under pin cushions) as their use can damage the plating.

In the past there was a problem with pins rusting in the pillow, particularly if a piece of lace stayed on the pillow for some years. When these rusted pins were pulled out of the pillow, they could snag the delicate lace threads or even leave a tiny rusty ring on the thread. Some students who have particularly sweaty palms have also discovered that this can cause problems to the surface of the pins, which then marks the lace. Stainless-steel pins are recommended for those students.

A variety of sizes is available. The complete beginner would find the 26mm (length) × 0.65mm (diameter) the most useful to start with. Different suppliers categorize pins in different ways, so do check the actual size when purchasing.

The different sizes of pins

Ultra fine

38mm × 0.40mm

Fine

26mm × 0.53mm

26mm × 0.55mm

30mm × 0.50mm

Medium-fine

30mm × 0.60mm

Medium

26mm × 0.65mm

Thicker

26mm × 0.75mm

Other useful pins

Dividers – these are longer pins, often with decorated heads. These are used to push bobbins out of the way until needed.

Strivers – these are small pins with tiny beads glued along them. In the past they were used as the first pin of the day and it was then possible to see how much lace was made. Some lacemakers today like to continue this tradition. It is easy to glue some tiny beads to one of the pins being used.

Pin cushion

A pin cushion is useful to place on your pillow as it is much easier to use pins taken from this than straight from the pin box. The pin cushion can be moved around the pillow as needed. It can be purchased or made.

Other useful items

Small items

1.

Short shoe laces or knitting stitch holders – to secure Midlands bobbins when not in use or when carrying the pillow. They ensure that the bobbins do not get tangled up.

2.

Small elastic bands – useful when a thread breaks or a bobbin runs out of thread (see Troubleshooting, page 233).

3.

Beeswax – useful when pricking the pattern (see Pricking a pattern, page 16).

(A) pin cushion; (B) shoe lace; (C) elastic band; (D) beeswax; (E) a selection of prickers; (F) two pin lifters – one with a forked end and one round; (G) thread grabber; (H) hackle pliers; (I) lazy Susan; (J) latch hook; (K) embroidery scissors; (L) paper scissors; (M) knitting stitch holder; (N) thread clamp; (O) tweezers; (P) pin dividers; (Q) permanent black liner, .005; (R) pencil; (S) rubber; (T) fine crochet hook, .006; (U) three needles – quilting (betweens), hand sewing, beading needle.

4.

Pricker or needle vice – used to make prickings. These are available in different shapes and sizes. Try out the different shapes and buy one that is comfortable to use. It is also useful to choose one that has a removable needle, which can be easily replaced when broken. Unscrew the end and place your needle inside, eye side in, then screw up to tighten the needle and secure it in place. Do not be tempted to use a hat pin or ‘divider’ as a pricker as these will create holes that are far too big.

5.

Pin pusher and lifter – used to push pins down into the pillow or for lifting pins. There are two different types: the first is shaped like a fork. These tend to catch on threads as well as the pin when used to lift pins. The second type is round-ended and ridged. A much more useful shape as the ridge is used to lift the pin and so the thread is not caught. It is also perfect at pushing pins down.

6.

Hackle pliers or ‘thread grabber’ – useful as a ‘third hand’ when dealing with short broken threads (see Troubleshooting, page 233).

7.

Lazy Susan – this tool has the sharp end of a beading needle glued into a wooden handle and is used for making sewings (see Sewings, page 225).

8.

Latch hook – this is similar to a miniature rug hook and latch and can be used to make sewings (see Sewings, page 225).

9.

Small sharp embroidery scissors – ensure that they are sharp at the point. Only use them for cutting thread.

10.

Paper-cutting scissors – to be used for cutting pricking card.

11.

Thread clamp – this can be used when introducing more bobbins into the work in a specialized way (see Sampler 25, page 203).

12.

Tweezers – these are extremely useful when removing a tiny piece of fluff from the work. Often a tiny stray piece of red fluff (it always seems to be red!) gets trapped between stitches and can ruin the appearance of the lace.

13.

Fine black permanent marker pen.

14.

Pencil, for transferring markings to pricking, and rubber.

15.

Crochet hook – used for sewings (joining up lace edgings, end to end) and also for adding beads to the lace (see Beaded Lace, page 209).

16.

Needles:

‘Quilting’ or ‘between’ needles, size 9 or 10 – these go in the pricker in order to do the pricking (

see

Pricking the pattern,

page 16

). The needle size should ideally be smaller than the pins that will be used when making the lace. This ensures that the pins fit snugly in the pricked hole and that the lace and threads do not move about. ‘Quilting’ or ‘between’ needles are shorter than normal needles; if they are unavailable, use the same size in other types and use pliers to trim off the ‘eye’ end of the needle to make them shorter. They are then less likely to bend in use.

Beading needles – these can be used to make sewings and to join up lace when finishing an edging (

see

Joining up lace,

page 225

).

Normal fine sewing needles will be needed to attach the lace to a handkerchief.

17.

Magnifiers – very useful if the lacemaker is finding it difficult to see details. The following types are used:

Clip-on, convenient to use as it clips onto spectacles.

Round the neck magnifier, which hangs around the lacemaker’s neck and is positioned so that the lacemaker can see through it to the lace pillow.

Small magnifier on a stand that has holes in the base, enabling it to be pinned into place on the lace pillow. It also has a bendy stem, which means that it can be positioned at any angle.

Floor stand that has a magnifier and a light.

18.

Bobbin winder – there are many types on the market. Winding bobbins by hand can be a job done easily while watching television or as a passenger in a car. However, if many pairs need to be wound, then a bobbin winder can be very useful.

(A) clip-on magnifying lens; (B) magnifier on a stand that can be pinned to the lace pillow; (C and D) bobbin winders; (E) plastic bobbin winder that clips onto the edge of a table; (F) bobbin case; (G) light; (H) cork board and drawing pins for pricking the pattern; (I) side cutters for spangling; (J) snipe-nosed pliers for spangling; (K) spangling wire.

19.

Bobbin case – useful for storing ready-wound bobbins.

20.

Small light – a daylight bulb can be very useful.

21.

Cork pricking board – used to prick the pattern onto the pricking card.

22.

Stapler – to staple the pattern to the pricking card.

23.

Side cutters and snipe-nosed pliers – both useful for spangling bobbins (see Spangling bobbins, page 11).

Larger items

Pillow carrying bag There are many different types of pillow carrying bags on the market. Some ensure that the pillow is carried horizontally, others vertically.

Lace stand This can help to get the lace pillow into the most comfortable position for working. They are available in many shapes and sizes. A table stand can be a simple bean bag, or a set of three wooden shapes that can be clipped together. Floor stands can be:

Fully adjustable with a disc at the top. A ring fixes to the underside of the pillow and the ring fits into the disc and is secured. More rings can be purchased to be attached to other pillows.

Fully adjustable with a T shape at the top. The pillow rests on the T.

Fully adjustable with a non-slip tray at the top. It will accommodate most sizes of pillow.

A movable table (with wheels) often used as a bed table, can also be adjusted to a working angle and covered with a non-slip surface.

Materials

Threads

There are numerous threads available for lacemaking. Unfortunately there is not a universal numbering system, which means that a thread labelled 40 from one manufacturer will NOT be the same thickness as one labelled 40 from another manufacturer. Threads also go out of production, which makes it very difficult for the lace designer or author who publishes a pattern and includes information on the best thread to use.

Luckily Brenda Paternoster has published an excellent book – Threads for Lace – which is a survey and comparison of at least 1,425 threads. Using this book will ensure that if a pattern suggests a thread to use and it is no longer available or the lacemaker does not have it, an alternative can be easily found.

A lacemaker using a floor stand.

Threads: (A) DMC Cotton perle 8 (cotton); (B) Filato per Tombolo di Cantu 30 (cotton); (C) Mettler Stickgarn 60/2 (cotton); (D) Gütermann silk 100/3; (E) Gütermann silk 100/3; (F) Madeira Tanne 30 (cotton); (G) Madeira Cotona 30 (cotton); (H) Bouc Linen 100; (I) DMC Broder Machine 50 (cotton); (J) Barbour’s Linen 50/3; (K) DMC Broder Machine 30 (cotton); (L) Fresia Linen 60/2; (M) Moravia Linen 50/4; (N) Bockens Knyppelgarn 50/2 (Linen); (P) Venus Crochet Cotton 70.

Choosing a thread can seem daunting to the beginner and more experienced lacemaker alike. Beginners are best advised to follow the instructions and thread recommendations with the patterns that follow. Those with more experience will already have favourite threads, but if you are not sure which thread to use, it is best to do a couple of samples using a choice of threads, before winding the bobbins with lots of thread, only to discover that the thread is unsuitable. The main areas, such as whole stitch blocks or trails, show very clearly whether the thread is lying well or ‘twippering’ (producing a seersucker effect).

Some lacemakers like to sample various similar threads to produce their own reference sheets. Lacemakers can be left- or right-handed, have different tension, and also have their own particular way of working. All of these factors can make a difference to the choice of thread.

Most of the patterns here have been designed on a 2mm straight grid. The samples have been made using Venus crochet cotton from Thailand. This thread was chosen because it is economical to buy, it is available in many colours, it works up well, is readily available from lace suppliers, and it enables a beginner to build up a selection of colours quite quickly.

How much thread to wind?

This is a question that everyone asks their lace teacher… and the answer is, ‘How long is a piece of string?’ It can be difficult to gauge how much thread is needed for a particular pattern. The author usually advises, ‘an arm’s length and a bit extra for luck’ on each bobbin for a small mat. If a large mat is to be made, then wind far more thread than you think you will need. It is better to have thread left over than to run out. Always wind on extra thread for any pair that you believe will be a worker pair.

Thread Fibres

Traditionally, bobbin lace has been made from linen, cotton, silk, wool or metals. If the lacemaker would like to learn more details about these threads please refer to books in the Bibliography.

Linen, cotton and silk will work well with the patterns in this book, but it will be necessary to either enlarge or reduce the pattern size for the chosen thread, following the instructions on page 13.

Linen is a good thread to use for important projects such as tablecloths or special items. It can be strong and items made from linen will last for a long time. However, when working with the linen thread, the lacemaker can find slubs and then weak parts, which could easily break if tensioning too strongly Cotton is a good choice for beginners. It is easily available in many thicknesses and colours and this is why Venus thread has been used throughout this book.

Synthetic and other threads

In the twenty-first century it is possible to make bobbin lace from a wide variety of threads or yarns. Synthetic, metallic yarns as well as twisted papers can all be used to create interesting and contemporary bobbin lace. The stretch and difficulty in controlling some of these interesting threads needs to be considered when making a choice. Some contemporary lacemakers prefer the unpredictability of these threads and do not want the lace to lie flat, but to have interesting undulating qualities. The beginner would be well advised to use the more conventional choice of cotton.

Pricking card

Pricking card is used to make the lace pattern that will go onto the lace pillow. Traditionally vellum or parchment was used. There has been a tendency amongst some lacemakers to use paper or thin card for their pricking. This will not produce excellent bobbin lace. It is essential to use the correct glazed card. This is available in different weights. If your pattern is complex, has pin holes very close together or is a pattern that you intend to make many times, then use the thicker card (0.4mm). For normal use, the easily available 0.3mm thick will be fine.

Other items

Black permanent marker. This is needed to draw the working lines onto the pricking card. A black permanent marker 0.05mm will do for general marking. A marker with nib size 0.005mm is excellent for marking floral Beds and Bucks Point patterns.

Beeswax or waxed paper (from cake icing shops) ensures that the pricker passes through the pricking card more easily (see Pricking, page 16).

2Preparations

Fundamental skills – introducing good practice

In order to produce well-made bobbin lace, it is important to develop good habits of working.

1.

Choose and photocopy the pattern

2.

Begin to fill in the lace log

3.

Prick the pattern

4.

Wind the bobbins

5.

Dress the pillow

6.

Make the lace

7.

Finish or join up the lace

8.

Mount the lace

9.

Photograph or make a photocopy of your finished lace and attach it to your lace log.

Choose and photocopy the pattern

It is permissible to photocopy patterns from published books for your own use. Be aware that a photocopier can distort a pricking by a very small amount. This is not critical when photocopying early beginner patterns and bookmarks; however, there could be a problem if a handkerchief edging is photocopied four times and then joined up to make the complete pricking. Double-check the photocopy.

Lace log