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Your fun guide to selecting, caring, and loving your turtle or tortoise! Coexisting with a turtle or tortoise may not be a warm and fuzzy experience, but it definitely has its rewards. And with more than 250 species to choose from, you're bound to find one that's right for you. Looks-wise, they can range from very plain and unadorned to a brightly colored and embellished with every manner of crest, crown, spike, and dewlap. As for personality, you'd be amazed at how very different they can be, ranging from shy and withdrawn, to outgoing and friendly, to outright aggressive. And when it comes to longevity, well, let's just say that when you commit to a turtle or tortoise, you're in it for the long haul. For example, the standard American box turtle can live more than 125 years, a leopard tortoise has a life span of up to 100 years, and an aldabran tortoise can live to be more than 200 years old! This fun guide will help you choose the perfect turtle or tortoise for your lifestyle and give it the care it needs to thrive. Turtle and tortoise expert Liz Palika provides cl ear, step-by-step instructions on how to: * Select the appropriate turtle or tortoise * Provide a suitable environment for your new pal * Care for a variety of chelonian (turtle and tortoise) species * Supply you pet with a satisfying and healthy diet * Create an indoor or outdoor home * Understand your turtle's or tortoise's special needs Generously illustrated with line drawings and high-quality photographs, Turtles & Tortoises For Dummies covers all the bases. Topics covered include: * Deciding whether a turtle or tortoise is right for you * Choosing between a turtle and tortoise * Who's Who of turtles and tortoises--a complete guide to dozens of species, where they're from, what they're like, and how they are as pets * Creating a safe and healthy environment for your pet * Recognizing and treating common health problems and finding a good veterinarian to help you care for your chelonian Turtles & Tortoises For Dummies is your fun guide to selecting, caring for, and sharing your life with a chelonian. P.S. If you think this book seems familiar, you're probably right. The Dummies team updated the cover and design to give the book a fresh feel, but the content is the same as the previous release of Turtles and Tortoises For Dummies (9780764553134). The book you see here shouldn't be considered a new or updated product. But if you're in the mood to learn something new, check out some of our other books. We're always writing about new topics!

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Turtles & Tortoises For Dummies®

Published by: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, www.wiley.com

Copyright © 2020 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey

Published simultaneously in Canada

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.

Trademarks: Wiley, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, Dummies.com, Making Everything Easier, and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and may not be used without written permission. Instant Pot is a registered trademark of Instant Brands, Inc. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.

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Library of Congress Control Number: 2020932959

ISBN 978-1-119-69574-5 (pbk); ISBN 978-1-119-69579-0 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-119-69552-3 (ebk)

Turtles & Tortoises For Dummies®

To view this book's Cheat Sheet, simply go to www.dummies.com and search for “Turtles & Tortoises For Dummies Cheat Sheet” in the Search box.

Table of Contents

Cover

Introduction

About This Book

Conventions Used in This Book

Foolish Assumptions

How This Book Is Organized

Icons Used in This Book

Where to Go from Here

Part 1: Deciding Whether a Turtle or Tortoise Is Right for You

Chapter 1: Understanding Chelonians

Understanding Life in the Original Mobile Home

Treasuring the Unusual

Battling Extinction

Making a Difference by Preserving Turtles and Tortoises

Chapter 2: Understanding What Turtle and Tortoise Ownership Requires of You

Growing Old Together

Managing Expenses

Making Sure That Your Significant Other Is on Board

Coexisting with Other Pets

Mixing Chelonians and Children

Recognizing That Chelonians Aren’t Soft and Fuzzy

Taking Time and Energy to Provide a Safe and Healthy Environment

Avoiding Common Mistakes

Chapter 3: Choosing the Right Turtle or Tortoise for You

Aquatic, Terrestrial, or Something in Between?

Diurnal or Nocturnal?

Introvert or Extrovert?

Younger or Older?

Male or Female?

One Turtle or Two?

Same Species or Different?

Chapter 4: Finding Your Turtle or Tortoise

Choosing Between Wild-Caught and Captive-Bred Chelonians

Locating a Seller of Chelonians

Evaluating a Chelonian’s Health

Part 2: The Who’s Who of Turtles and Tortoises

Chapter 5: Aquatic Turtles

Red-Eared Slider (Trachemys scripta elegans)

Painted Turtles (Chrysemys picta)

Common Map Turtle (Graptemys geographica)

Mississippi Map Turtle (Graptemys pseudogeographica)

Eastern Mud Turtle (Kinosternon subrubrum)

Striped Mud Turtle (Kinosternon baurii)

Reeve’s Turtle (Chinemys reevesi)

European Pond Terrapin (Emys orbicularis)

Smooth Softshell Turtle (Trionyx muticus)

Spiny Softshell Turtle (Trionyx spinifera)

Matamata (Chelus fimbriatus)

Big-Headed Turtle (Platysternon megacephalum)

Florida Cooter (Pseudemys floridana)

Yellow-Headed Temple Turtle (Hieremys annandalei)

New Guinea Side-Necked Turtle (Chelodina parkeri)

Twist-Necked Turtle (Platemys platycephala)

Chicken Turtle (Deirochelys reticularia)

Florida Red-Bellied Turtle (Pseudemys nelsoni)

Chapter 6: Semi-Aquatic Turtles

Bog Turtle (Clemmys muhlenbergii)

Spotted Turtle (Clemmys guttata)

Blanding’s Turtle (Emydoidea blandingii)

Malayan Box Turtle (Cuora amboinensis)

Red-Bellied Side-Necked Turtle (Emydura subglobosa)

Spiny Turtle (Heosemys spinosa)

Indian Snail-Eating Turtle (Melanochelys trijuga)

African Helmeted Turtle (Pelomedusa subrufa)

South American and Central American Wood Turtle (Rhinoclemmys pulcherrima and Rhinoclemmys punctularia)

Black Marsh Terrapin (Siebenrockiella crassicollis)

African Forest Turtle (Pelusios gabonensis)

Western Pond Turtle (Clemmys marmorata)

Spotted Pond Turtle (Geoclemys hamiltonii)

Malayan Snail-Eating Turtle (Malayemys subtrijuga)

Japanese Turtle (Mauremys japonica)

Asian Yellow Pond Turtle (Mauremys nigricans)

Mediterranean Turtle (Mauremys leprosa)

Chapter 7: Semi-Terrestrial and Terrestrial Turtles

Wood Turtle (Clemmys insculpta)

Brown Wood Turtle (Rhinoclemmys annulata)

Furrowed Wood Turtle (Rhinoclemmys areolata)

Mexican Red Wood Turtle (Rhinoclemmys rubida)

Diamondback Terrapin (Malaclemys terrapin)

Giant Asian Pond Turtle (Heosemys grandis)

Black-Breasted Leaf Turtle or Vietnam Wood Turtle (Geoemyda spengleri)

Asian Leaf Turtle (Cyclemys dentata)

Stripe-Neck Leaf Turtle (Cyclemys tcheponensis)

Vietnamese or Jagged-Shelled Turtle (Pyxidea mouhotii)

Indochinese Box Turtle or Flowered Box Turtle (Cuora galbinifrons)

Chinese Box Turtle (Cuora flavomarginata)

Chinese Three-Striped Box Turtle (Cuora trifasciata)

Indian Black Turtle (Melanochelys trijuga)

Chapter 8: North American Box Turtles

Eastern Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina)

Three-Toed Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina triunguis)

Florida Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina bauri)

Gulf Coast Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina major)

Mexican Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina mexicana)

Yucatan Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina yucatana)

Coahuila Aquatic Box Turtle (Terrapene coahuila)

Ornate Box Turtle (Terrapene ornata ornata)

Desert Box Turtle (Terrapene ornata luteola)

Nayarit Box Turtle or Spotted Box Turtle (Terrapene nelsoni nelsoni)

Klauber’s Box Turtle (Terrapene nelsoni klauberi)

Chapter 9: Small Tortoises

Angulated Tortoise or Bowsprit Tortoise (Chersina angulata)

Pancake Tortoise (Malacochersus tornieri)

Russian or Horsfield’s Tortoise (Testudo or Geochelone horsfieldi)

Hermann’s Tortoise (Testudo hermanni)

North African Tortoise or Moorish Tortoise (Testudo graeca)

Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca ibera)

Egyptian Tortoise (Testudo kleinmanni)

Chaco Tortoise (Geochelone or Chelondoidis chilensis)

Bell’s Hingeback Tortoise (Kinixys belliana)

Serrated Hingeback Tortoise (Kinixys erosa)

Texas Tortoise (Gopherus berlandieri)

Chapter 10: Medium-Sized to Large Tortoises

Desert Tortoise or California Desert Tortoise (Gopherus agassizii)

Bolson Tortoise (Gopherus flavomarginatus)

Gopher Tortoise or Florida Gopher Tortoise (Gopherus polyphemus)

Red-Footed Tortoise (Geochelone or Chelonoidis carbonaria)

Yellow-Footed Tortoise or Forest Tortoise (Geochelone or Chelonoidis denticulata)

Burmese Black Tortoise and Burmese Brown Tortoise (Manouria emys phayeri and emys emys)

Marginated Tortoise (Testudo marginata)

Elongated Tortoise (Indotestudo or Geochelone elongata)

Chapter 11: Really Big Tortoises

Sulcata Tortoise (Geochelone sulcata)

Galapagos Tortoise (Geochelone or Chelonoidis elephantopus)

Aldabran Tortoise (Geochelone or Aldabrachelys gigantea)

Chapter 12: Special Tortoises

Star Tortoise (Geochelone elegans)

Burmese Star Tortoise (Geochelone platynota)

Radiated Tortoise (Geochelone asterochelys radiata)

Geometric Tortoise (Psammobates geometricus)

Leopard Tortoise (Geochelone pardalis)

Part 3: Welcome Home! Creating a Safe and Healthy Environment

Chapter 13: Making a Home for an Aquatic or Semi-Aquatic Turtle

Keeping Your Turtle’s Head Above (or Under) Water

Making the House a Home

Making Sure You Don’t Muddy the Waters

Chapter 14: Making an Indoor Home for a Terrestrial Turtle or Small Tortoise

Home Sweet Home: The Cage or Enclosure

Home Furnishings

Making the Cage Easy to Clean

Chapter 15: Keeping a Turtle or Tortoise Outdoors

Setting Up an Enclosure

Going Househunting

Knowing What Else the Enclosure Needs

Keeping It Clean

Chapter 16: Lighting Up Your Chelonian’s World

Providing Natural Sunlight

Using Commercial Reptile Lights

Photo What? Understanding Photoperiods

Chapter 17: Keeping Your Turtle or Tortoise Warm and Toasty

Turning Up the Heat

Optimum Temperatures

Evaluating Heating Sources

Chapter 18: Water: The Magic Liquid

Understanding Your Pet’s Water Needs

Monitoring Water Quality

Humidity: Water in the Air

Part 4: Open Wide! Turtle and Tortoise Health

Chapter 19: Making Sure Your Pet Eats the Right Things

Understanding What Nutrition Is

Clarifying What Herbivore, Carnivore, and Omnivore Mean

Using Commercial Reptile Foods

Feeding Your Turtle

Recognizing and Treating a Malnourished Turtle or Tortoise

Chapter 20: Monitoring Your Turtle’s or Tortoise’s Health

Finding a Veterinarian

Preventing Illness

Investigating Your Pet’s Anatomy

Planning First Aid for Your Turtle or Tortoise

Nursing Your Chelonian Back to Health

Chapter 21: Breeding Your Chelonians

Breeding Your Turtle or Tortoise

Caring for a Gravid (Pregnant) Chelonian

Helping with Eggs

Caring for Hatchlings

Finding Homes for Your Babies

Chapter 22: Sleeping the Winter Away

Why Do Some Turtles and Tortoises Hibernate?

Which Species Hibernate?

Should You Allow Your Turtle or Tortoise to Hibernate?

Caring for a Hibernating Turtle or Tortoise

Coming Out of Hibernation

Part 5: The Part of Tens

Chapter 23: Ten Turtles and Tortoises That Make Great Pets

Eastern Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina)

Gulf Coast Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina major)

Wood Turtle (Clemmys insculpta)

Red-Foot Tortoise (Geochelone or Chelonoidis carbonaria)

Pancake Tortoise (Malacochersus tornieri)

Russian or Horsfield’s Tortoise (Testudo or Geochelone horsfieldi)

North African or Moorish Tortoise (Testudo graeca)

Hermann’s Tortoise (Testudo hermanni)

Leopard Tortoise (Geochelone pardalis)

Sulcata Tortoise (Geochelone sulcata)

Chapter 24: Ten Turtles and Tortoises That May Be Difficult to Care For

Common Snapping Turtle (Chelydra serpentina)

Bog Turtle (Clemmys muhlenbergii)

Indian Snail-Eating Turtle (Melanochelys trijuga)

Malayan Snail-Eating Turtle (Malayemys subtrijuga)

Western Pond Turtle (Clemmys marmorata)

Star Tortoise (Geochelone elegans)

Bell’s Hingeback Tortoise (Kinixys belliana)

Desert Tortoise (Gopherus agassizii)

Sulcata Tortoise (Geochelone sulcata)

Galapagos Tortoise (Geochelone or Chelonoidis elephantopus)

Chapter 25: Ten Ways to Keep Your Pet Healthy

Begin with a Healthy Chelonian

Conduct Research, Research, and More Research!

Use a Correctly Sized Enclosure

Maintain the Correct Environment

Recognize That Heat Is Healthy

Understand That Light Is Life

Remember That You Are What You Eat

Know What’s Normal

Pay Attention

Make a Vet Your Partner

Chapter 26: Ten Common Mistakes to Avoid

Thinking Your Pet Isn’t Worth a Visit to the Vet

Being Complacent

Using Glass-Sided Tanks

Using the Wrong Substrate

Feeding the Wrong Foods

Putting Large and Small Species Together

Mixing Species

Being Unprepared for Emergencies

Finding Out Too Late That Fido Isn’t Turtle-Friendly

Getting Addicted

Appendix A: Chelonian Terms and Scientific Names

Glossary of Terms

List of Scientific Names

Appendix B: Sources of Things Chelonian

Sources of Live Foods

Suppliers of Foods and Supplements

Internet Suppliers

Index

About the Author

Advertisement Page

Connect with Dummies

End User License Agreement

List of Illustrations

Chapter 1

FIGURE 1-1: A turtle.

FIGURE 1-2: A tortoise.

Chapter 2

FIGURE 2-1: Keep dogs and chelonians separated by a fence.

Chapter 3

FIGURE 3-1: This Gulf Coast box turtle

(Terrapene carolina major)

hides under a...

Chapter 5

FIGURE 5-1: The spiny softshell turtle

(Trionyx spinifera).

FIGURE 5-2: The matamata

(Chelus fimbriatus).

Chapter 6

FIGURE 6-1: The Blanding’s turtle

(Emydoidea blandingii).

Chapter 7

FIGURE 7-1: The wood turtle

(Clemmys insculpta).

FIGURE 7-2: The diamondback terrapin

(Malaclemys terrapin).

Chapter 8

FIGURE 8-1: The eastern box turtle

(Terrapene carolina carolina).

Chapter 9

FIGURE 9-1: The pancake tortoise

(Malacochersus tornieri).

FIGURE 9-2: The Greek tortoise

(Testudo graeca ibera).

Chapter 10

FIGURE 10-1: The Florida gopher tortoise

(Gopherus polyphemus).

Chapter 11

FIGURE 11-1: The Galapagos tortoise

(Geochelone or Chelonoidis elep

...

Chapter 12

FIGURE 12-1: The radiated tortoise

(Geochelone asterochelys radiata).

FIGURE 12-2: The leopard tortoise

(Geochelone pardalis).

Chapter 13

FIGURE 13-1: An all-glass aquarium allows your turtle to be an integral part of...

FIGURE 13-2: A children’s wading pool makes a great home for aquatic turtles.

FIGURE 13-3: You can create a land mass without doing much work.

Chapter 14

FIGURE 14-1: Don’t try to squeeze a turtle or tortoise into a small terrarium.

FIGURE 14-2: Provide a heat source for your tortoise or terrestrial turtle.

FIGURE 14-3: You need to provide hiding places for your tortoise or terrestrial...

Chapter 15

FIGURE 15-1: Most chelonians love spending time outdoors.

FIGURE 15-2: A concrete block enclosure can fit right into your landscape.

FIGURE 15-3: Provide a small container of water (relative to your chelonian’s s...

FIGURE 15-4: Provide hiding places for your pet.

Chapter 17

FIGURE 17-1: Your aquatic turtle needs a heated home.

FIGURE 17-2: A small tortoise requires a carefully monitored climate.

Chapter 18

FIGURE 18-1: Polluted waters decrease the quality of life for turtles.

Chapter 19

FIGURE 19-1: A tortoise munching on a rose bloom.

FIGURE 19-2: Your chelonian can munch on food from your fridge.

FIGURE 19-3: A turtle grabbing up a long, thick earthworm.

Chapter 20

FIGURE 20-1: A strong, vigorous tortoise has clear and bright eyes.

FIGURE 20-2: This ornate box turtle (

Terrapene ornata ornata

— see Chapter 8) h...

FIGURE 20-3: This Galapagos tortoise (

Geochelone

or

Chelonoidis elephantopus

— ...

Chapter 21

FIGURE 21-1: Hatchlings must be 4 inches long before they can be sold.

FIGURE 21-2: Males fight each other over females.

FIGURE 21-3: Breeding chelonians.

FIGURE 21-4: A female chelonian sniffs the ground, looking for a place to lay h...

FIGURE 21-5: A female digs a hole for her eggs before laying them.

FIGURE 21-6: A hatchling begins to break free of its shell.

FIGURE 21-7: The hatchling’s body starts to emerge.

FIGURE 21-8: The hatchling’s feet finally work free of the egg.

FIGURE 21-9: The hatchling leaves the egg behind.

FIGURE 21-10: Place the hatchling on damp paper towels under an incubator.

FIGURE 21-11: Mom and several years’ worth of babies.

Guide

Cover

Table of Contents

Begin Reading

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Introduction

As I sit in my backyard enjoying the flowers and the songbirds, something steps on my toes: something heavy and very hard. It’s Pearl, my 35-pound leopard tortoise. As Pearl tries to climb up my leg, I hand her a rose blossom; after all, that’s what she wants. I’ve had Pearl since she was a hatchling, and she’s a bit spoiled. Pearl, who has beautiful cream-yellow coloring with black splotches, is bright, alert, vigorous, and healthy. (I’m especially proud of her being healthy because many people have a difficult time keeping leopard tortoises in good health.)

My addiction to turtles and tortoises began over 20 years ago when my husband and I adopted two desert tortoises. We soon became involved in turtle and tortoise adoption, joined several herpetological societies (groups of reptile and amphibian hobbyists) and turtle and tortoise clubs — things just seemed to escalate from there. We’ve discovered a lot over the years, and this book is a result of that education, giving you all the information you need to choose the right turtle or tortoise and keep him healthy and happy.

About This Book

In our turtle and tortoise rescue work, my husband and I took in many chelonians (turtles and tortoises) who had been cared for improperly — either kept in incorrect environmental conditions or fed an incorrect diet. We found that many people simply didn’t know how to care for their turtles or tortoises or had been given the wrong instructions as to how to care for them.

If you’re a beginning turtle and tortoise keeper, this book will get you started right. You can find out what you need to know to house, feed, care for your chelonian, and much, much more. You can even discover how to find a reptile veterinarian.

If you’re more expert at keeping turtles and tortoises, you may find some of this information rather basic. But in these pages, you can still pick up some new ideas. As you probably already know, keeping reptiles is an ever-changing experience!

You can read this book cover to cover, but you don’t have to use it that way. Instead, feel free to use this book as a reference. If you want to know something about a particular topic, go straight to that chapter for the information you need.

Conventions Used in This Book

Scientists have identified about a dozen different families of turtles and tortoises. All 250 different species (or types) of turtles and tortoises are identified by a common name, such as eastern box turtle, and a Latin scientific name, such as Terrapene carolina carolina. For simplicity’s sake, I refer to the turtles and tortoises in this book by their common names. However, to keep misunderstandings and misidentifications to a minimum, I also have to give you the species Latin name. So, in the sections where I discuss specific species, I use both the common and the scientific names. Although the scientific names may seem quite complicated, they actually simplify identification sometimes. For example, several different types of tortoise have been called spur-thigh tortoises. However, if the particular tortoise is identified as a Geochelone sulcata, you know that this refers to the really big, 200-pound tortoises from Africa.

In addition, I show temperature in Fahrenheit, not Celsius. If you’re used to the Celsius scale, use the following table to convert:

°F

°C

°F

°C

105

40.5

68

20.0

104

40.0

67

19.4

103

39.4

66

18.9

102

38.9

65

18.3

101

38.3

64

17.8

100

37.7

63

17.2

99

37.2

62

16.7

98

36.6

61

16.1

97

36.1

60

15.5

96

35.5

59

15.0

95

35.0

58

14.4

94

34.4

57

13.9

93

33.9

56

13.3

92

33.3

55

12.8

91

32.7

54

12.2

90

32.2

53

11.7

89

31.6

52

11.1

88

31.1

51

10.5

87

30.5

50

10.0

86

30.0

49

9.4

85

29.4

48

8.9

84

28.9

47

8.3

83

28.3

46

7.8

82

27.8

45

7.2

81

27.2

44

6.7

80

26.6

43

6.1

79

26.1

42

5.6

78

25.5

41

5.0

77

25.0

40

4.4

76

24.4

39

3.9

75

23.9

38

3.3

74

23.3

37

2.8

73

22.8

36

2.2

72

22.2

35

1.7

71

21.6

34

1.1

70

21.1

33

0.6

69

20.5

32

0.0

Foolish Assumptions

In writing this book, I made some foolish assumptions about you, dear reader:

You may be considering buying a turtle or tortoise but don’t know what species would be the right pet for you.

You may be considering buying a turtle or tortoise but aren’t quite sure what care he may need — you want to know what it will take to keep your pet healthy.

You already have a turtle or tortoise (or two or three) and want to know more about caring for your pets.

You found a turtle or tortoise wandering through the neighborhood or crossing the street and want to know more about the animal you found.

You are a pet professional and want to get the lowdown on our shelled friends.

Your kids have been bugging you for a turtle, and you want to know what you would be getting into prior to saying yes or no.

How This Book Is Organized

I’ve organized this book into five distinct parts, plus some appendixes. This section gives you the lowdown on what you can find in each part of this book.

Part 1: Deciding Whether a Turtle or Tortoise Is Right for You

Keeping a turtle or tortoise as a pet is different from keeping a dog or cat. This part helps you decide whether a turtle or tortoise is the right pet for you. In addition, you find out how to choose between a turtle and a tortoise — and how to choose the right one for you and your family. I also talk about whether you should keep one, two, or three turtles or tortoises — after all, they can be addictive!

Part 2: The Who’s Who of Turtles and Tortoises

This part describes some of the most popular species of pet turtles and tortoises: where they came from and how much care they need. You can find information about aquatic turtles, who spend most or all of their time in the water; semi-aquatic turtles, who spend most, but not all, of their time in the water; semi-terrestrial turtles, who spend most of their time on land but do go into the water; and last but certainly not least, terrestrial turtles, who spend most of their time on land. Not all turtles are alike; in fact, some are more different than alike. Before you choose a turtle, you need to know something about them.

Tortoises vary from tiny little guys who weigh less than 1 pound to great big giants weighing 500 or 600 pounds! Some are colored with earth tones and subdued markings, while others are bright yellow and black. Tortoises are more similar than different, especially when compared to the varieties of turtles; however, they do have individual needs.

Part 3: Welcome Home! Creating a Safe and Healthy Environment

This part explains what your turtle or tortoise needs for a cage, aquarium, terrarium, or outside enclosure. I take a look at the pros and cons of various types of cages and enclosures and show you how to choose the right one. This part is the place to find out about heat — how to supply it and why it’s important. I also discuss lighting, humidity, water, and a number of other important concerns.

Part 4: Open Wide! Turtle and Tortoise Health

How do you know whether your turtle or tortoise is healthy? What are some signs of illness? In this part, you discover how to take care of your turtle or tortoise’s health as well as how to recognize potential problems. I also discuss about how to find a veterinarian who can help you care for your shelled pet, how to figure out what to feed your chelonian, how to help your pet hibernate, and how to decide whether to breed your turtle or tortoise.

Part 5: The Part of Tens

This part is full of little bits of information, from the ten best turtle and tortoise pets to ten not-so-great pets to ten common mistakes that turtle and tortoise owners make. You can also find ten tips on how to keep your turtle or tortoise healthy and safe.

Appendixes

Appendixes are like parting gifts that you get just for showing up. The glossary defines all those somewhat mysterious terms — such as carapace (the top shell), plastron (the bottom shell), and ectothermic (cold-blooded) — used in the text. The resource list shows you some places to continue your research and includes some Internet sites that provide good information.

Icons Used in This Book

Icons, little pictures in the margins of this book, are meant to guide you to information that’s specific to your needs. Here’s what they mean:

The tips, tricks, and techniques that this icon highlights make life with your pet turtle or tortoise a little more enjoyable.

This icon points out bits of information that you’ll want to store in the back of your mind. Think of this icon as the literary equivalent of sticking an interesting article to your refrigerator door.

Turtles and tortoises can be pretty easy to take care of, but this icon tells you when to proceed with caution.

This icon directs you to in-depth information that’s meant for the turtle geek in you. Feel free to skip these if you want to.

Where to Go from Here

If you’re thinking about getting a turtle or tortoise and need all the information you can get, start at the beginning of this book and work your way through it. If you have a turtle or tortoise and are confused by some of the conflicting advice you’ve seen or read, read carefully through the specific chapters that answer your questions. If you’re a turtle and tortoise owner already and you need to research a few different subjects, go for it! Take a peek at the index or table of contents and then start wherever you want.

Part 1

Deciding Whether a Turtle or Tortoise Is Right for You

IN THIS PART …

Do you enjoy the unusual? Do you treasure the different and unique? Do you like causing a reaction? If you answer “Yes!” to these questions, you probably enjoy different pets, too. Not the average Joe Dog or Miss Kitty for you!

If you enjoy the different and unusual, a turtle or tortoise may just be the right pet for you. However, you need to think about some things before you go shopping.

The four chapters in this part can answer all your questions. What are turtles and tortoises? What can you expect from a turtle as a pet? What does turtle ownership require of you? How much time does turtle ownership require? What type of turtle or tortoise is right for you? Where can you buy your new pet? And much, much more.

Chapter 1

Understanding Chelonians

IN THIS CHAPTER

Understanding the term chelonian

Finding out about the physical characteristics of turtles and tortoises

Treasuring these unusual creatures

Understanding the threat of extinction and seeing what you can do to help

When you think of turtles, do you think of the tiny quarter or half-dollar–sized turtles that used to be sold in pet stores (and in some places still are)? If so, you’re not alone. That image is the one that comes to mind when many people think of turtles. However, those tiny little turtles (most of whom died shortly after their purchase) are only one of many different types of turtles and tortoises, many of which can be long-lived, healthy, hearty pets.

Turtles and tortoises are known as chelonians, from the Greek word for “tortoise,” chelona. Chelonian refers to all turtles and tortoises, no matter whether they live in the ocean, in fresh water, or on land.

The term

turtles

applies to chelonians that live in or around water. Sea turtles, for example, never leave the ocean except to lay their eggs. Other turtles are more or less aquatic, depending on their species. The sliders, mud, bog, and leaf turtles are all found close to fresh water. Terrapins are aquatic turtles that people frequently eat. Many terrapins live in and close to brackish salt water. Box turtles are primarily

terrestrial

(land roving) but are almost always found within walking distance of water. See

Figure 1-1

for an example of a turtle.

FIGURE 1-1: A turtle.

The term

tortoise

refers to chelonians that live on land and rarely venture into water except to drink or bathe. Tortoises range in size from tiny little guys weighing less than 1 pound to gigantic, weighing over 600 (or more) pounds. Size aside, tortoises have many things in common. They are primarily

herbivores

(plant eaters), although many will scavenge, given the chance. Tortoises also usually have hard shells, often with high domes, to help protect against predators. Take a look at

Figure 1-2

.

FIGURE 1-2: A tortoise.

In this book, I focus on the species of turtles and tortoises best suited for pet ownership. Although more than 250 different species of chelonians exist, many are impossible to keep as pets. Think of the size aquarium and the filtration system you would need to keep a 200-pound green sea turtle! However, many species of turtles and tortoises do quite well in captivity and make good pets.

Understanding Life in the Original Mobile Home

Turtles and tortoises are in the reptile family, which means that they are ectothermic, or cold-blooded. Cold-blooded animals rely on external heat sources, such as warm ground, hot rocks, or sunshine, to warm their bodies. Turtles are the original sun worshippers and can often be found sleeping on rocks or logs, soaking up the sun’s rays.

All turtles and tortoises share a similar characteristic: their shell. No other animal on Earth has a shell quite like this. A turtle’s shell is a boxlike exoskeleton (a word that refers to a part of an external skeleton) with the spine and ribs fused to the top shell. These bones are, in fact, a part of the carapace, or top shell. The shell itself is made of bone, and the outer covering of the shell is made of keratin, much like human fingernails.

Each shell is made up of sections called scutes. As the turtle grows, new layers of keratin are formed around the outer edges of each scute, looking much like the growth rings of a tree. Some people count each of these rings in an effort to tell how old a turtle may be. This can give only a rough idea, however, because just like a tree, if food is plentiful a turtle may have two growth spurts per year, or in a bad year may grow very little. Also, as a turtle gets older, the shell becomes worn and smooth, and the rings may be difficult to see.

The type of shell and the degree of protection offered by the shell are based on the turtle’s lifestyle and habitat. Sea turtles, for example, have a light, streamlined shell covered by a leathery skin. Freshwater turtles usually have a hard shell, but in some species, it’s too small to protect the entire body. Land turtles and tortoises that rely on the shell for protection have a hard, domed shell.

THE STAY-AT-HOME TYPE

When Zeus held his wedding feast, all the animals were invited. Only the tortoise arrived too late. Zeus wanted to know why, so he asked her the next day why she was the only one who did not arrive in time for the banquet. Her answer was, “My house is dear to me; my house is the best.” Zeus was angry at her answer and ordained that the tortoise should always have to carry her house around with her. In just this way, many people prefer to dwell simply under their own roofs rather than live luxuriously in the homes of friends. (from Aesop’s Fables)

THIS TURTLENECK COMES IN GREEN

When a turtle pulls its head into its shell for protection, its neck either folds to the side or into a vertical S shape, and the skin of its neck bunches up — hence the name turtleneck for shirts and sweaters with bunched-up necks.

Many turtles and tortoises can pull in all four legs and their head so that the shell protects them from predators. With many species, the outer skin of the legs is hard, rough, and, in some tortoises, armored, giving the turtle even more protection.

Some turtles and tortoises can even close their shell, giving additional protection. Box turtles (hence their name) have a hinge across the bottom shell (the plastron). This hinge can close both front and rear, hiding the turtle completely inside. The muscles holding the shell closed are incredibly tough, and after the hinge is shut, you can’t open it without harming the turtle. A type of tortoise can close its shell, too, although not as completely as the box turtle. Hinge-back tortoises have a hinge across the top of their top shell (the carapace) and can close in their back legs, protecting them.

Although the shell, made of bone, seems to be the ultimate protection, it is vulnerable. Predators can chew and break the shell. A larger bird of prey can pick up a small turtle and, flying high, drop the turtle on rocks below, breaking the turtle’s shell like an egg. The shell can protect a tortoise from a small, fast-moving wildfire, but larger, hotter fires will kill a turtle or tortoise caught in it. Domestic dogs — Fido and Fluffy — have been know to treat turtles like chew toys, with disastrous results!

The skin on the legs of tortoises is hard, with scales made of keratin protecting it. Some of the keratin scales are quite large and pronounced; on some species, the scales create spurs or spikes that help protect the tortoise from predators and also help desert tortoises retain water. Because aquatic turtles usually dive into water when threatened, their skin is much softer with fewer protective scales. Most turtles and tortoises have five toes (although they sometimes have four or as few as three) with hard nails on the toes. Aquatic turtles have webbing between their toes.

Most chelonians have a birdlike beak, which enables them to bite off chunks of food. They don’t have teeth, but hard, bony plates enable them to masticate (chew) their food. Most food, however, is swallowed whole.

SURVIVORS FROM THE AGE OF DINOSAURS

Turtle (and tortoise) fossils have been found linking them to the Mesozoic era in the Triassic period. Because of the mass of bone found in the shell, finding fossilized tortoises is actually quite common (compared to finding other creatures of the same size and era).

This Triassic turtle, called Triassochelys dux, is remarkably similar to turtles found today. It had an armored shell with ridges, tough skin with spurs, and spinelike projections on the tail. One marked difference, though, was that this turtle had teeth, whereas today’s turtles have hard bony mouths or beaks instead of functional teeth.

The Cretaceous period, when dinosaurs became extinct, was the age of sea turtles. The turtles of this era had large gaps in the bony mass of their shells, making the shells lighter for swimming. The largest marine turtle ever found came from this era. The Archelon ischyros had a carapace measuring over 18 feet!

Toward the end of the Mesozoic era, land tortoises developed. In what is today central Europe, land tortoises evolved that look much like tortoises found in Indochina today. These tortoises had (and have) thick bony shells.

It is probably totally scientifically incorrect, but I can picture in my mind a gigantic dinosaur, looking like something out of the movie Jurassic Park, striding along, roaring and drooling, while at its feet a herbivorous tortoise munches calmly on greens!

Treasuring the Unusual

Most tortoise owners seem to enjoy the fact that their pets are different. Obviously, your tortoise won’t chase a tennis ball like Fido will, but that’s okay because your tortoise is different. Because turtles and tortoises came in a variety of sizes, shapes, and colors from an assortment of environments, there’s something for everyone willing to care for them.

The Spix’s snake-necked turtle

(Platemys spixii)

is from eastern Brazil and has a black plastron, a long, heavily armored neck (complete with spikes), and a face that looks like a fish’s.

The big-headed turtle

(Platysternon megacephalum)

has such a large head — out of proportion to the rest of its body — that it can’t retract its head fully into its shell. The big-headed turtle also has powerful jaws and has been known to bite.

Side-neck turtles have exceptionally long necks; a few have necks as long as the rest of their bodies. The matamata

(Chelus fimbriatus)

has a long neck and a long nose that it uses as a snorkel. The matamata eats whole fish, using its powerful neck to help reach, grab, and subdue its prey.

Box turtles don’t vary much in size or physical conformation, but their colors can be quite striking. Some have yellow or red spots, stripes, or patterns on the skin and yellow or gold patterns on their shells. Red-eared sliders

(Trachemys scripta elegans),

western painted turtles

(Chrysemys picta belli),

and eastern painted turtles

(Chrysemys picta picta)

can be quite colorful and striking.

If you enjoy and treasure the unusual, you can find a turtle or tortoise that will strike your fancy.

Make sure that you don’t choose a turtle or tortoise entirely for its looks, markings, or body conformation. Many turtles or tortoises require special conditions or care. You need to understand what this particular species requires before you add it to your family. See Part 2 for information on many species of turtles and tortoises.

Battling Extinction

Over the centuries, turtles and tortoises have evolved on every continent except Antarctica. Temperate or tropical climates are most popular, with southern North America, South America, Africa, southern Europe, and Asia being home to the most numerous species.

Although turtles and tortoises have flourished for millions of years, their future survival is not so certain. Many species have been wiped out or threatened with extinction because they have been used as food sources, or their eggs are routinely dug up and eaten.

Habitat destruction has threatened many species. Many South American tropical turtles and tortoises have been killed during the destruction of rainforests. In North America, gopher tortoises in the south and desert tortoises in the west are finding it harder and harder to survive as more people move into their territories. The situation is no different in Africa, Europe, or Asia.

DWINDLING NUMBERS

The California desert tortoise (Gopherus agassizii) used to range the Mexico, California, Arizona, Utah, and Nevada deserts in great numbers. This medium to large sized tortoise could live and even thrive in the hostile deserts. Unfortunately, loss of habitat and off-road recreational vehicles have threatened this hardy tortoise. An equally dangerous but much less visible threat is a respiratory infection known to infect most captive desert tortoises. This potentially fatal disease is treatable with antibiotics but is not curable, and has been spread to the wild population by captive tortoises set free by caring but ignorant owners.

In many parts of the world, warfare is killing turtles and tortoises. Landmines blow up tortoises as well as people. Tanks and heavy vehicles crush tortoises and collapse burrows. Vegetation necessary for survival is destroyed. During times of famine, a heavy tortoise is food for the hungry.

Future survival may be based on humankind’s ability to step in and change what’s happening now in many parts of the world. If sections of land can be set aside as preserves and protected from poaching, some species may be able to survive. Captive breeding populations may also hold hope for the future. Some species breed quite well in captivity, and the offspring of these turtles and tortoises may prevent some species from disappearing entirely.

Captive breeding can serve another purpose: to provide the pet-owning public with a source of animals already adapted to captivity. When wild-caught turtles and tortoises are captured, transported, and then sold to pet owners, the animals are traumatized. They have been removed from their natural habitat, stored somewhere (during which time they were probably not fed, or at least not properly fed), shipped one, two, or even three times, and then held again at the pet store or animal dealer’s facility. When the unsuspecting pet owner brings home this traumatized turtle or tortoise, the chelonian may or may not adapt to its new home. As a result, say many experts, fully 90 percent of wild-caught chelonians die within their first year of captivity.

However, when chelonians are bred in captivity, they grow up exposed to people, the foods normally fed in captivity, and captive conditions. These turtles may feel some stress at shipping and during changes in their environment, but after they’re sold, they are then re-exposed to what are, to them, normal captive conditions. They experience far less stress and thus have a greater chance for survival. Captive breeding also produces more animals for the pet market, reducing the need for animals to be caught in the wild. If more people request captive-bred animals and refuse to buy wild-caught animals, there will be again less need to capture chelonians in the wild.

The tortoises on the Galapagos Islands are a good example of the good that captive breeding can do. By the late 1960s, the number of Galapagos Islands tortoises was decreasing rapidly. Harvesting by sailors took a great many tortoises, but the introduction of feral cats, goats, rats, dogs, and other predators was decimating entire clutches (litters, with all eggs laid at one time) of eggs as well as any hatchlings that managed to finish incubation. The future looked bleak.

However, the Charles Darwin Research Station was built on Santa Cruz Island, and the remaining 14 Hood Island tortoises — all that remained of that subspecies — were relocated to the station. In 1971, the first eggs were incubated. Young hatchlings (of Hood Islands tortoises and other island subspecies) were head-started — fed regularly and grown to a size that can survive most predators — and then relocated to their ancestors’ islands. Although some Galapagos subspecies are still decreasing in number, others are now thriving thanks to captive breeding.

The African spur-thigh tortoise, commonly called a sulcata (Geochelone sulcata), was rarely found in the pet trade as little as 20 years ago. Today, breeders have successfully raised generations of these large, friendly, and active tortoises. Although their survival in the wild in question, these tortoises will survive in captivity.

TURTLES IN MYTHOLOGY, LEGEND, AND ART

Turtles and tortoises have had a special place in many ancient cultures. In China, in 2,500 B.C., the symbol of a snake entwined with a tortoise was said to protect against evil spirits. The Emperor Hwang-ti had flags with this symbol lead and follow his armies to protect them from danger.

Eastern mythology said that the Earth was supported by a tortoise. East Indian legends said that a tortoise supported an elephant, which in turn supported the Earth. In Japan, the tortoise carried the mountain Horai (the home of the immortals) on its back. Also in Japan, turtles were considered symbols of happiness and good fortune, primarily because of their longevity. Tortoise art was frequently given at weddings to wish the newlyweds long life and happiness.

The legend of extreme longevity isn’t true for all turtles and tortoises but certainly is deserved by some. The explorer Captain Cook is reputed to have given the King of Tonga a radiated tortoise. When the tortoise died, it is said to have been at least 189 years old. French explorer Marion de Fresne planted five Seychelles tortoises on the island of Mauritius in 1776. The last of these five died in 1918. The turtle had been in captivity for at least 152 years and was an adult when taken into captivity, so this chelonian may have been over 200 years old.

Perhaps because of their longevity, several cultures also associate tortoises with reincarnation. In one South American legend, if a person who was dying was laid on or next to a special tortoise’s shell, the spirit of that person would live on and be transferred to a living person. In a Native American legend, a giant water turtle leads the dying person to his or her next lifetime.

Some Native Americans compare the tortoise shell with the night sky. The three bright stars that make up Orion’s belt highlight the tortoise’s back. In the story, these three stars, because they are always present, show the traveler the way home.

Turtles and tortoises also appear in many art forms, including paintings and sculptures. The favorite art form for turtles and tortoises seems to be that of small storage boxes, with the back shell coming off to reveal a storage area inside. Turtles and tortoises have also been depicted on stamps and coins: Japan released a nature conservation series of postcards with stamps, the ninth issue of which features a Spengler’s turtle; Cuba, Vietnam, Yugoslavia, and Italy all released stamps with sea turtles on them; and Brazil, Kenya, the Cayman Islands, New Guinea, and several other countries released stamps with a variety of different species featured. The Fiji Islands released a sixpence coin with a loggerhead turtle on it. The Cayman Islands issued a 10 cent piece with a green turtle, and the Tonga Islands featured a radiated tortoise on a 1 senti coin.

Collections of turtles and tortoises in ceramic, porcelain, glass, and stone are still very popular. Modern depictions may be realistic, down to the small details in the scutes or skin wrinkles, or may be funny, with the turtles or tortoises having exaggerated characteristics. Some collections include hundreds or even thousands of chelonians.

Making a Difference by Preserving Turtles and Tortoises

When I adopted those two desert tortoises many years ago, I did so because I knew that they were threatened in their native habitat (in this case, the Mojave Desert of California). I was doing something to help, and I felt good about that.

In today’s society, we feel a little helpless sometimes. With so many problems in the world, we can do so little to change things. Sure, we can recycle. We can conserve gas. We can build a compost pile in the backyard. We can try to raise our kids right so that they don’t contribute to the problems of our world. But even while I was doing those things, I often asked myself, “Isn’t there something else I can do?”

By myself, I can’t save a rainforest or prevent a highway from going through delicate desert lands. But by taking in those two misplaced, threatened tortoises, incubating their eggs, and raising their babies, I actually felt like I was doing something real to save a threatened species.

Since then, my husband and I have concentrated on five threatened species: two from North America, one from Eurasia, and two from Africa. We have had breeding success with two species and have enjoyed watching the babies grow and develop. The individuals from the three species that have not yet bred are still young but are healthy, active, and showing breeding behaviors, so we’re anticipating the day when they, too, reproduce.

I can’t think of much of anything that’s more exciting than watching a baby turtle or tortoise break open its shell. A perfect miniature of the adult, complete with tiny little toenails, a baby turtle or tortoise from a threatened species is hope for the future. Chapter 21 shares more information about breeding.

THE TORTOISE AND THE HARE

Nearly every child reads the story called The Tortoise and the Hare. This fable from Aesop appears to have had its origins in African legends. In the African story, an eagle and a tortoise race to win the hand in marriage of a fair young woman. The tortoise won through prior planning, intelligence, and deceit and suffers for using deceit by being banned to the ocean forever — hence the origin of marine turtles. In the modern version, the tortoise wins due to hard work, steadiness, and reliability, whereas the hare takes his abilities for granted, goofs off, and, as a result, loses the race.

Chapter 2

Understanding What Turtle and Tortoise Ownership Requires of You

IN THIS CHAPTER

Recognizing the long-term commitment of owning a chelonian

Planning for your pet-related expenses

Providing a safe and healthy environment

Avoiding the pitfalls that many chelonian owners face

A lot of people come by their first turtle or tortoise accidentally. Perhaps you wandered into a pet store to look at that cute little puppy in the window and happened to see a baby turtle that was “Oh so cute!” I got my first two tortoises when I answered an ad in the paper to adopt rescued desert tortoises. Those first two, more years ago than I would like to admit, were the start of an addiction. And turtle and tortoise ownership really is addictive.

But before you get addicted, you need to know what turtle and tortoise ownership is all about. Owning one (or two or three) of these creatures is different from owning a dog or cat. Turtle or tortoise ownership makes some demands on you — for your attention, your time, and your pocketbook. Many a new pet owner has bought an inexpensive small turtle only to find out that the small turtle requires a large aquarium, a complicated filtration system, lights, heat, and food. What was at first glance an inexpensive pet turned into quite a financial investment.

Before you add a turtle or tortoise to your household, make sure that you can — and are willing to — do what’s necessary for your pet. What is required, really, to care for turtles? I have a 20-gallon-long aquarium set up for box turtle hatchlings. I have potting soil in the bottom, several potted houseplants, and a plant saucer for water. Daily care includes the following: In the morning, I turn on the lights, wash the water bowl, refill it with clean water, and feed the baby turtles. In the evening, I turn off the lights, remove uneaten food, and wash the saucer on which the food was served. Several times a week, I go out in the backyard and hunt for insects for the turtles to chase and eat. Once every two weeks, I totally clean the enclosure, including replacing the potting soil and washing the glass.

Unless you live alone, you must include your family in your decision whether to keep turtles or tortoises as pets. Although chelonians are quiet pets that won’t jump on someone’s lap or bark at the neighbors, they do require care and attention, and they can make a mess. There are also some potential problems, especially the threat of salmonella, associated with owning a turtle. If a family member objects to the turtle or tortoise, life could become difficult, especially for the turtle or tortoise, and that isn’t fair. All family members (or roommates) need to agree to the new pet before you add a turtle or tortoise to your household.

Growing Old Together

Turtle and tortoise ownership is a long-term commitment; hopefully, the two of you can grow old together. Many turtles and tortoises are known to live for 75 to 100 years or even longer. The following are some known or estimated life expectancies:

Aldabran tortoise (

Geochelone gigantea

or

Aldabrachelys gigantea

): 200+ years

American box turtles

(Terrapene carolina):

75 to 125+ years

Bolson tortoise

(Gopherus flavomarginatus):

60 to 90 years

California desert tortoise

(Gopherus agassizii):

60 to 90 years

Eastern painted turtle

(Chrysemys picta picta):

30 to 50 years

Florida gopher tortoise

(Gopherus polyphemus):

60 to 90 years

Galapagos giant tortoises

(Geochelone elephatopus):

100 to 200+ years

Leopard tortoise

(Geochelone pardalis):

75 to 100 years

Radiated tortoise

(Geochelone radiata):

90 to 100+ years

Red-eared slider

(Trachemys scripta elegans):

30 to 50 years

Western painted turtle

(Chrysemys picta belli):

30 to 50 years

Because many species are new to science or have just recently been bred in captivity, no one really knows how long they can live. With new knowledge about nutrition, their environmental needs, and breeding, scientists may find that many species live even longer than was first thought.

Because of this, when you decide to add a turtle or tortoise to your household, you must be prepared to keep and care for this living creature for a long time. If you get a turtle and then find you can no longer keep her, finding a home for an adult turtle or tortoise can be very difficult, if not impossible. As with many pets, most buyers want a young animal. Many people assume that their local zoo will take their treasured turtle or tortoise, but that isn’t necessarily so. Most zoos refuse to accept pet turtles or tortoises: Zoos concentrating on breeding threatened or endangered animals want, for the most part, known animals. That means the exact bloodline (pedigree or genealogy) and species or subspecies must be known for the animal. An unknown may also introduce disease or parasites to the zoo population.

Something else you need to think about is who will care for your tortoises when you have grown old and can no longer care for them. In California, thousands of desert tortoises live in captivity, and many of those thousands have been passed down from parents to children to grandchildren.