Ultimate Guide: Ceramic & Stone Tiling, 4th edition E-Book

• Herausgeber: Creative Homeowner
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 285

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

Ultimate Guide: Ceramic & Stone Tiling, 4th Edition teaches any homeowner or do-it-yourselfer how to design, plan, and install new tile on floors, walls, countertops, patios, and more, with the confidence of a pro. With more than 625 inspirational photographs and instructional illustrations, this comprehensive manual leads you, step-by-step, through the processes of preparing the site and selecting the right ceramic, stone, porcelain, vinyl, or glass tile. Instructions are beginner-friendly and easy to follow with expert tips throughout for successful installation. Learn how to troubleshoot problems, make repairs, maintain new tiles, and more in this updated 4th edition.

Leseprobe

This book may not be reproduced, either in part or in its entirety, in any form, by any means, without written permission from the publisher, with the exception of brief excerpts for purposes of radio, television, or published review. All rights, including the right of translation, are reserved. Note: Be sure to familiarize yourself with manufacturer’s instructions for tools, equipment, and materials before beginning a project. Although all possible measures have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the material presented, neither the author nor the publisher is liable in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, or typographical error.

Creative Homeowner® is a registered trademark of New Design Originals Corporation.

ULTIMATE GUIDE: CERAMIC & STONE TILING

Fourth Edition

MANAGING EDITOR

Gretchen Bacon

EDITORS

Joseph Borden and Kelly Umenhofer

TECHNICAL EDITOR

Alice Dean

ISBN 978-1-58011-612-1eISBN 978-1-63741-421-7

The Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on file with the Library of Congress.

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

Creative Homeowner®, www.creativehomeowner.com, is an imprint of New Design Originals Corporation and distributed in North America by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 800-457-9112, 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552.

What to Expect

Do-it-yourself (DIY) tile installation can be a rewarding experience. Whether you’re looking to expand your skills, save money, or both, it is best to seriously think things through ahead of time to avoid any unpleasant surprises. Knowing what to expect can help you move forward with a healthy mix of caution and confidence.

CREATE YOUR PROJECT GAME PLAN

Kickstart your project by outlining your goals and the scope of the project, and then compiling a checklist of considerations. Here are some questions to get you started:

Does your jurisdiction or homeowner’s association have certain requirements for the type of project you are planning, such as permits, construction documents (like blueprints), or permission for a dumpster?

Have you factored some wiggle room into your budget for demo, if applicable?

What about unforeseen costs, such as subfloor repair?

Are you planning to do any upgrades, such as accent tiles or heated flooring?

Have you considered how the layout of your home and property could influence moving materials and equipment from point A to point B?

Do you need to hire a subcontractor for certain tasks, such as an electrician or plumber? If so, will you plan your project around their schedule or vice versa?

Have you gauged the complexities of your project in advance to determine how much time you will need to invest in additional research and education?

The lengthier your list of considerations, the better.

Consider Your Schedule

Be aware that your normal routines at home, as well as relationships and leisurely activities, will all be impacted if you choose to complete a large or complex project on weekends and/or without help.

Calculate Expenses

A bird’s eye view of expenses is not enough. To stay within your budget and mitigate unforeseen costs, devote some time to navigating through the minutia. Here are some expenses to consider before you start your project:

Get estimates from a plumber and/or electrician, if applicable.

Incorporate extra tiles for waste and future repairs.

Thumb through the appropriate pages in this book and the manufacturer’s product instructions for details about what setting materials and supplies you will need for your project.

Don’t forget about items to protect the surfaces surrounding your work area, such as plastic, drop cloths, and tape.

Consider the purchase price or rental costs for any tools or equipment you don’t already have on hand.

Miscellaneous expenses could include the cost of fuel if you live far from suppliers, as well as the cost of potential mistakes if you are venturing beyond your comfort zone of knowledge and experience.

Consider your own labor time. Even if you are not planning to take time off work for this project, your time has value, which isn’t always measured in dollars and cents.

Estimate potential future costs associated with keeping your tiles fresh, clean, and inviting, such as cleaning and care products, minor repairs, and major restoration.

Closely read the manufacturer’s warranties on any of the products or materials you plan to use, because no one wants to pay for a project twice!

Comfort and Safety

Home improvement shows and online videos often make things seem more manageable than they are. Without the muscle memory and fine motor skills of a professional tile installer, projects can be a challenge. DIY tile installation may require you to handle heavy materials and bulky equipment. For your comfort and safety, make sure to:

Consider if you’re physically able to do the work.

Wear the appropriate safety gear and clothing.

To setup your work area so it is adequately ventilated.

Follow the manufacturer’s safety instructions.

Never mix chemicals.

If you acknowledge and address these concerns before you begin your project, you will get off to a great start.

Safety

Although the methods in this book have been reviewed for safety, it is not possible to overstate the importance of using the safest methods you can. What follows are reminders—some do’s and don’ts of work safety—to use along with your common sense.

Always use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book.

Always be sure that the electrical setup is safe, that no circuit is overloaded, and that all power tools and outlets are properly grounded. Do not use power tools in wet locations.

Always read container labels on paints, solvents, and other products; provide ventilation; and observe all other warnings.

Always read the manufacturer’s instructions for using a tool, especially the warnings.

Use hold-downs and push sticks whenever possible when working on a table saw. Avoid working short pieces if you can.

Always remove the key from any drill chuck (portable or press) before starting the drill.

Always pay deliberate attention to how a tool works so that you can avoid being injured.

Always know the limitations of your tools. Do not try to force them to do what they were not designed to do.

Always make sure that any adjustment is locked before proceeding. For example, always check the rip fence on a table saw or the bevel adjustment on a portable saw before starting to work.

Always clamp small pieces to a bench or other work surface when using a power tool.

Always wear the appropriate rubber gloves or work gloves when handling chemicals, moving or stacking lumber, working with concrete, or doing heavy construction.

Always wear a disposable face mask when you create dust by sawing or sanding. Use a special filtering respirator when working with toxic substances and solvents.

Always wear eye protection, especially when using power tools or striking metal on metal or concrete; a chip can fly off, for example, when chiseling concrete.

Never work while wearing loose clothing, open cuffs, or jewelry; tie back long hair.

Always be aware that there is seldom enough time for your body’s reflexes to save you from injury from a power tool in a dangerous situation; everything happens too fast. Be alert!

Always keep your hands away from the business ends of blades, cutters, and bits.

Always hold a circular saw firmly, usually with both hands.

Always use a drill with an auxiliary handle to control the torque when using large-size bits.

Always check your local building codes when planning new construction. The codes are intended to protect public safety and should be observed to the letter.

Never work with power tools when you are tired or when under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

Never cut tiny pieces of wood or pipe using a power saw. When you need a small piece, saw it from a securely clamped longer piece.

Never change a saw blade or a drill or router bit unless the power cord is unplugged. Do not depend on the switch being off. You might accidentally hit it.

Never work in insufficient lighting.

Never work with dull tools. Have them sharpened, or learn how to sharpen them yourself.

Never use a power tool on a workpiece—large or small—that is not firmly supported.

Never saw a workpiece that spans a large distance between horses without close support on each side of the cut; the piece can bend, closing on and jamming the blade, causing saw kickback.

When sawing, never support a workpiece from underneath with your leg or other part of your body.

Never carry sharp or pointed tools, such as utility knives, awls, or chisels, in your pocket. If you want to carry any of these tools, use a special-purpose tool belt that has leather pockets and holders.

Never use thinset to fill in dips, or “birdbaths,” on a concrete subfloor. It will shrink during curing and likely cause problems with the installation. Use concrete patch instead.

Never use the spot bonding method. Spot bonding, or adding dollops of thinset to the center and corners of a tile, is an improper way to correct wall or floor irregularities.

Contents

Introduction

CHAPTER 1TILE BASICS

A Short History of Tile

Tile Characteristics

Tile Sizes and Shapes

Trim and Specialty Tile

Ceramic Tile

Porcelain Tile

Stone Tile

Glass Tile

Terra-Cotta Tile

Decorative Tile Borders

Painted Tile

Mosaic Tile

Room Prep: Structure

Room Prep: Bathrooms

Room Prep: Kitchens

Patterns and Working Lines

CHAPTER 2TOOLS & MATERIALS

Layout and Prep Tools

Cutting Tools

Setting Tools and Materials

Finishing Tools

Basic Materials

Waterproof and Isolation Membranes

Mortar and Adhesives

Grouts and Sealers

CHAPTER 3TILING FLOORS

Design Basics

Planning the Layout

Preparing the Floor

Reinforcing the Subfloor

Installing Underlayment

Repairing Concrete Floors

Installing Field Tiles

Installing Partial Tiles

Grouting and Sealing

Preparing the Floor for Slate Tile

Installing the Slate

Design Ideas

CHAPTER 4TILING WALLS

Layout and Preparation

Extending an Electrical Box

Removing a Base Trim

Patching Small Holes

Patching Large Holes

Patching Plaster

Fixing a Corner

Installing Drywall

Planning the Tile Layout

Installing and Finishing Tiles

Design Ideas

CHAPTER 5TILING COUNTERTOPS

Planning the Layout

Building Countertops

Prepping for a Sink Installation

Installing Field Tiles

Installing Partial Tiles and Edging

Making a Countertop Backsplash

Backsplash Design Options

Finishing a Backsplash

Installing a Glass-Tile Backsplash

Installing a Countertop-to-Ceiling Backsplash

Installing a Mosaic-Tile Vanity Top

Design Ideas

CHAPTER 6TILING TUBS & SHOWERS

Removing Old Tile

Shower Waterproofing and Drainage Systems

Planning the Project

Installing a Prefab Shower Pan

Installing a Mortar-Bed Shower Floor

Installing Tub and Shower Tile

Installing a Soap Dish

Installing a Grab Bar

Making a Shower Seat

Framing and Tiling Tubs

Design Ideas

CHAPTER 7INDOOR PROJECTS

Tiling a Fireplace Hearth

Tiling a Fireplace Surround

Woodstoves

Range Hoods

Stairs

Design Ideas

CHAPTER 8OUTDOOR PROJECTS

Preparing Concrete for Tile

Building a New Concrete Base

Making Slab Forms

Laying Tiles on a Slab

Tiling Entry Steps

Tiling a Pool Deck

Design Ideas

CHAPTER 9REPAIRS & MAINTENANCE

Stay a Step Ahead of Problems

Regular Cleaning and Care

Basic Cleaning

Routine Maintenance

Cleaning Old Grout

Removing Old Grout

Repairing a Tiled Tub Surround

Fixing Broken Tiles

Fixing Trapped Tiles

APPENDIXTILE INSTALLATION SPECS

Tile Floors over Concrete Slabs

Tile Floors Over Wood Subfloors

Tile Floors over Radiant Heat

Tile Walls

Tile Ceilings, Tub and Shower Walls, Countertops, and Tile-over-Tile Renovations

Resource Guide

Glossary

Metric Equivalents

Credits

introduction

CERAMIC AND STONE TILE are truly unique building materials. Tile provides unique opportunities for DIY enthusiasts to creatively transform living spaces with functional, highly customized decorative installations. Advancements in materials, tools, and methods have made DIY tile installations more achievable than in the past.

Because of its resistance to water, tile is often used in bathrooms, right. Note the decorative tile backsplash and the tile border around the mirror.

In these pages, we give you a crash course in the fundamentals of tile, from its origin, characteristics, sizes, and shapes, to the tools and materials you will need for your project. You’ll learn about waterproof membranes, isolation membranes, mortar, adhesives, grouts, sealers, and more. Steer clear of errors by implementing the principles of design fundamentals, layout planning, and subfloor preparation detailed in this book.

You’ll find chapters covering almost any type of residential application, from walls, countertops, and backsplashes to showers and projects for other interior and exterior spaces. The book wraps up with some valuable repair and maintenance tips, as well as additional resources, so that you can keep your new installations looking great all the time and get many years of enjoyment from your tile.

GUIDE TO SKILL LEVEL

Easy. Made for beginners.

Challenging. Can be done by beginners who have the patience and willingness to learn.

Difficult. Can be handled by most experienced do-it-yourselfers who have mastered basic construction skills. Consider consulting a specialist.

A change in tile design defines the different areas of this kitchen.

1Tile Basics

A SHORT HISTORY OF TILE

TILE CHARACTERISTICS

TILE SIZES AND SHAPES

TRIM AND SPECIALTY TILE

CERAMIC TILE

PORCELAIN TILE

STONE TILE

GLASS TILE

TERRA-COTTA TILE

DECORATIVE TILE BORDERS

PAINTED TILE

MOSAIC TILE

ROOM PREP: STRUCTURE

ROOM PREP: BATHROOMS

ROOM PREP: KITCHENS

PATTERNS AND WORKING LINES

MODERN CERAMIC AND STONE TILES provide hundreds of design options that can enhance floors, walls, countertops, and other areas of the home. In this chapter, you will find important information about tiles. The chapter includes a concise look at the humble, prehistoric beginnings of tile, how various cultures over the centuries influenced tilemaking, and a fascinating explanation of how tile evolved into the pressed-dust method used by most commercial tile manufacturers today.

It is recommended that you dive deep into characteristics of tile so that when it comes time to choose your materials, you can make a more informed decision. Whether tile is fired or glazed, knowing about its absorbency is important. Armed with the information in this book, you will likely have a much better idea of how tiles are usually categorized by tile dealers, which should take some of the anxiety out of shopping for tile.

Tile sizes and shapes can be combined to form patterns. Learning about tile dimensions will help you determine what tile size and shape will work best for your project. Get equipped with an understanding of single and sheet mounted tiles, pre-grouted panels, as well as the many varieties of trim and specialty tile.

Make sure to familiarize yourself with what type of tile material would be most appropriate for the environment where it will be installed. This chapter covers all the basics: ceramic, porcelain, stone, glass, and terra-cotta tiles. For more customized projects, be sure to read about decorative tile borders, painted tiles, and mosaic tiles.

For a successful start to your project, look for our helpful tips on how to effectively prepare your work area. It is important to examine basic room prep concepts like stripping drywall and removing, adding, and reinforcing wall studs. Bathrooms and kitchens present unique challenges like removing sinks, toilets, sills, or old vinyl. If any lights or switches need to be relocated, making changes to wiring is best. This chapter provide guidelines for all the above, as well as instructions on tiling to existing wood trim.

Finally, this chapter will dive into patterns and working lines, which will help you with alignment and symmetry as you work, improving efficiency and the appearance of the finished installation.

A SHORT HISTORY OF TILE

The earliest forms of ceramic tile date back to prehistoric times, when the use of clay as a building material was developed independently in several early cultures. The precursors of modern tile were roughly shaped and not nearly as strong as tiles today. The material was dug from river banks, roughly formed into building blocks, and baked dry in the sun. The first tiles were crude, but even 6,000 years ago people were decorating them by adding pigments for color and carving low-relief designs into their surfaces.

Firing Tile

The ancient Egyptians were the first to discover that firing clay tiles at high temperatures in a kiln made them stronger and more water-resistant. Many ancient cultures also used thin squares of fired clay as decorative elements in their architecture.

Buildings in ancient Mesopotamian cities were fronted with unglazed terra-cotta and colorful decorative tiles. Ancient Greeks and Romans used ceramics for the floors, roofs, and even the plumbing in their buildings. The Chinese used a white clay called kaolin to develop the white-colored and durable ceramic known as porcelain.

Tiles in medieval Europe were generally reserved for the floors of churches. Across the continent, the Byzantines excelled in using tile at a small scale; they created expressive mosaic patterns and murals using ceramic tile as well as pieces of glass and stone.

Glazing Tile

Persian ceramicists, inspired by imported Chinese porcelain, created a decorative tradition that spread across South Asia, North Africa, into Spain with the Moors, and eventually throughout Europe. Because their Islamic religion prohibited using human images in art, artisans turned to brightly colored tiles with ornate and intertwined patterns.

Solid-color glazed tiles were cut and assembled into large-scale mosaics with subtle color gradations. The Islamic artisans also developed metal-oxide glazes using tin, copper, cobalt, manganese, and antimony, which made tile glazes more brilliant and durable.

By the fifteenth century, metal-oxide-glazed tile had become popular in Italy, and their design influence moved northward with Italian craftsmen. Major European trading centers gave their names to local design motifs and types of tile that are still used, including delft tile (from Delft in Holland), and majolica tile (from Majorca in Spain).

Modern Tile

Today, most commercial tile manufacturers use the pressed-dust method of construction. First, a mixture of ingredients is pressed into the desired tile shape. Then the tile is glazed (or left unglazed) and baked in a kiln. Some tile makers may extrude tile shapes by squeezing them through a press into a die, or by rolling them out flat and cutting the tile shapes with a form much like a cookie cutter.

Whatever the method, all ceramic tile must be fired to become durable. The purity of the clay, the number of firings, and the temperature of the kiln determine the quality and price. Kiln temperatures vary from just below 2,000°F to 2,500°F. Lower firing temperatures produce more porous tile and soft glazes; higher temperatures produce dense, nonporous tile and hard glazes.

Decorative tiles were used in complex color and pattern combinations, such as on this ancient building in Jerusalem.

Modern mosaics and combinations of stock and hand-made tiles can be just as intricate as ancient patterns.

Ancient artisans created intricate shapes with small tiles, such as this pattern in a church at Mount Nebo in Jordan.

TILE CHARACTERISTICS

There are several types of ceramic tile and many ways to categorize them. The built-in properties can make one better than another for a particular installation.

Firing and Glazes

When most tile is first formed, it has to dry enough to become stable. Then it goes into a kiln at temperatures ranging from about 1,800°F to 2,500°F. Tiles fired at lower temperatures generally are more porous and have softer glazes than tiles fired at higher temperatures.

These surface coatings can be used to add color and decoration, and to protect the tile body. Color is commonly included in a mixture of pigments that is added before the tile is fired or applied to a hardened tile and bonded with a second firing. Glazed tiles range from a high-gloss to a dull matte finish.

Water Absorption

There are four basic categories of tile rated by how much water they absorb. More-porous tiles are generally softer and absorb more water. Less-porous tiles generally are harder and may be more expensive than more porous tiles.

Nonvitreous tile absorbs about 7 percent or more water; semivitreous tile absorbs between 3 percent and 7 percent water; vitreous tile absorbs between 0.6 percent and 3 percent water; and impervious tile absorbs 0.5 percent or less water. Generally, the longer the firing time and the higher the firing temperature, the more nonporous (or vitreous) the tile. Vitreous and impervious tiles include ceramic and glass mosaic varieties, as well as porcelain tiles. Don’t use nonvitreous or semivitreous tiles outdoors in cold climates. Water trapped in the tile body will alternately freeze and thaw, cracking the tile.

Tile porosity becomes important in the choice of tiles for wet conditions, such as a tub surround, because water absorbed by porous tiles can harbor bacteria and eventually penetrate the substrate, loosening the tile bond.

Tile Selection

When you visit your tile dealer, the ceramic tile probably will be divided into basic categories of wall, floor, and ceramic mosaic tile. There are also many specialty tiles. (See pages 19 to 35 for more on tile materials.)

Tile can connect one area of the home to another, such as shown in this bathroom and adjoining laundry room.

Floor Tiles. Most glazed floor tiles work on countertops and other horizontal surfaces subject to heavy use. Some may be too heavy to set on walls without special supports during the installation, such as a batten board or a row of nails. Some come in sizes up to 24 in. square and may be unwieldy and out of scale as wall tile. Glazed floor tiles often are listed in manufacturers’ catalogs as glazed quarry tile or glazed pavers. Generally, you use glazed floor tiles on interior floors only. But some glazed floor tiles have a fine carbide grit incorporated into the glaze to make them slip-resistant in wet areas.

Wall Tiles. Wall tiles generally are thin, lightweight, nonvitreous (porous) tiles coated with a soft glaze. Most don’t have the strength to stand up to floor traffic. You also can use sheet tile mounted on a backing of paper, plastic mesh, or fabric mesh. The sheets eliminate the laborious process of spacing individual tiles.

Ceramic tiles with interlocking patterns can form a centerpiece by themselves or in a surrounding field of tile.

Ceramic Mosaic Tiles. All tiles that are 2 in. square or smaller are considered mosaic tiles. Generally, these dense-bodied vitreous tiles resist water, stains, impact, frost, and abrasion, making them suitable for practically any application. Shapes include squares, rectangles, hexagons, circles, teardrops, clover leafs, and random pebble designs, among others. Most ceramic mosaic tiles are mounted on a backing sheet.

While ancient mosaics were installed piece by piece (left), intricate patterns are now available on full tiles (right).

Antique Tiles. Although some rare old tiles command very high prices, others are relatively affordable. All are collectible, including Victorian art tiles, Arts-and-Crafts tiles, and Art-Deco tiles, among others. If you can’t find the real thing, check with companies specializing in imported hand-painted tiles. Many include a selection of reproduction antique designs.

Hand-Painted and Mural Tiles. Large tile manufacturers offer a broad selection of domestic and imported hand-painted tiles. Several even employ a staff of artists to make personalized hand-painted tiles to order, as do small independent artisans and ceramic shops. Hand-painted tiles are available as individual accents to spruce up a kitchen countertop or fireplace surround. Some hand-painted tiles have sculptured surfaces, while others are hand-cut into unusual shapes. Custom-made hand-painted tiles vary widely in price—from $20 to $100 per piece—depending on whether they are chosen from stock designs or are custom-made to your specifications. If hand-painted tiles are too costly, most tile dealers also carry decorator tiles and picture tiles with silk screen or decal designs at a more affordable price.

Larger tiles, trim strips, and accent tiles can be combined into highly decorative and colorful panels.

TILE SIZES AND SHAPES

Field tiles come in several different shapes, which you can use singly or in various combinations to form patterns. The actual size of these tiles may vary ⅛ in. more or less, as will the thickness, depending on the manufacturer. This means you can’t always mix tiles from different manufacturers, so it is important to make sure that you buy enough tiles from a single source before you start the project.

Single Tiles

This is the type of ceramic tile that most do-it-yourselfers use: single tiles laid one at a time. They are available in a great variety of sizes, colors, and patterns. Most custom decorative and hand-painted tiles fall into this category as well. Tiles typically are ¼ to 3/8 in. thick and range in size from 1 x 1 in. to 12 x 12-in.-square, although larger sizes and different shapes are available. Most often, a tile layout will consist of a grid of full-size field tiles that cover most of the area and at least some partial tiles around the edges. The size you find listed in a manufacturer’s catalog generally is nominal and not actual. It generally includes an allowance for grout.

Sheet-Mounted Tiles

Sheet tiles are evenly spaced tiles mounted on a backing sheet of paper, plastic mesh, or fabric mesh. They may also may be joined by small dabs of vinyl, polyurethane, or silicone rubber in a process called dot-mounting. Many sheets are 12 in. square or larger. It’s wise to use sheet-mounted applications, if available, when installing small tiles that would be very time-consuming to set one by one. All sheet-mounted tiles require grouting once installed.

Pregrouted Tile Panels

Eliminating the need to grout joints sounds like a good idea. And some tile outlets may offer pregrouted tile panels to do the task. But the grout is actually a flexible polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride, rubber grout, or silicone caulk. Without rigid grout between tiles, these sheets often are flexible enough to bend and stretch with normal building movement. You use tubes of matching silicone caulk to grout the joints between panel edges and trim pieces. Typically, the grout is treated with a special mildew and fungus inhibitor, making these panels suitable for shower and tub enclosures. Because of this chemical treatment, the Food and Drug Administration does not recommend installing the sheets on kitchen countertops or on other serving and food-preparation areas.

BASIC SIZES AND SHAPES

TRIM AND SPECIALTY TILE

ALL TILES that are not field tiles are referred to as trim tiles. They are used to create finished edges.

Angles. These tiles include inside and outside corners that create sharp turns instead of rounded edges.

Aprons. Half-size tiles called aprons are used to fill in narrow areas, such as along the front of a countertop.

Bases. Tiles designed specifically for the floor line, called base trims or runners, have a finished top edge. They are used where the floor has been tiled but the wall has not.

Beads. These trims are sometimes called quarter-rounds and are used to finish off corners and edges. The narrow pieces turn a rounded, 90-degree angle.

Bullnose. These are field tiles with one curved and finished edge. They neatly trim a course of tile that ends without turning a corner. Often, a bullnose tile is paired with an apron tile meeting the bullnose at a right angle. The result is a smoothly turned edge. There are separate bullnose tiles designed for thin-set and mortar-bed installations.

Countertop Trims. These trim pieces are set on the outside edge of a countertop. The raised lip is designed to prevent drips. Many V-cap tiles have this feature.

Coves. These pieces are used to gently turn corners at a right angle. The corner can turn either inward or outward. Cove base turns a corner at floor level. Special cove pieces that have a finished edge turn a corner at the top row of a backsplash. Other cove pieces do not have finished edges.

Miters. Two miter pieces together form a corner separated by a grout joint.

Profiles: These metal or plastic edge pieces can be used in place of trim tiles. They create a finished, clean look by covering the exposed edges of your tiles. Profiles are also used to smooth transitions between two different types of tiles. Note: Profiles eliminate the need for caulking.

Rounds. These trim tiles create a rounded corner instead of an angular one.

Swimming-Pool Edging. These tiles are designed to cover the coping on swimming pools. They require a thickset mortar bed.

V-caps. Although they are called V-shaped, these edging tiles often are more L-shaped to cover the perimeter of a counter, for example, and wrap around the front edge of plywood and backer board.

Windowsill Trim. Windowsill tile has a finished edge on one side and a rounded corner on the other. It covers the sill itself and turns to meet the tile on the wall. Without this trim piece, you would need two tiles: a flat field tile for the sill itself and a quarter-round to turn the corner.

CERAMIC TILE

CERAMIC TILE isn’t very complicated. Most pieces are nothing more than some clay flattened into a square shape, covered with a hard glaze, and baked in a very high temperature oven. Pretty simple. It’s also been around for a while—from what we can tell, about 6,000 years. As such, it’s a clear-cut example of established technology. Not much need for a computer chip in these things, at least not right now.

The term might be as clear as a prophet and as old as the hills, but unfortunately, it’s a little general. So many different tiles, used in so many different places, are all called ceramic, so buying tile can be a bit confusing. Probably the best way out of the fog is to think of ceramic tile as the default product among many other specialized offerings. It’s the stuff on your bathroom walls, your brother-in-law’s vanity top, and around the top edge of your neighbor’s swimming pool.

Ceramic tile comes in a variety of different sizes, colors, and surface finishes. These days, it’s usually installed over a cementitious backer board and embedded in a layer of thinset mortar. Tile is rated by its water resistance. A rating by PEI (Porcelain Enamel Institute) of 1 or 2 means that the tile can be used only on walls. A rating of 3 or 4 makes a tile suitable for all residential applications: floors, walls, and countertops.

The difference between the ratings is primarily the result of how the tile is made. A low temperature (under 2,000°F) firing in the kiln will create a more porous tile, which would be bad for a floor where exposure to moisture is high. When a tile is fired at a higher temperature (about 2,500°F or more), the result is a denser tile with a harder surface that can be used in any residential application anywhere.

Walls and Borders

Ceramic Shower Surround

Two-Toned Color Scheme

Ceramic Accents

Patterned Backsplash

PORCELAIN TILE

ALTHOUGH PORCELAIN TILE can sometimes look like common ceramic tile, there are some big differences. First off, porcelain units are made of carefully refined white clay that is fired at an extremely high temperature. As a result, the individual tiles are very dense and much less porous than ceramic tile, which makes them more water resistant. Porcelain tile is also much harder than ceramic tile, so it wears better and longer and is almost impossible to stain. This makes porcelain a good choice for floors and countertops inside the house and for exterior applications where the freeze-and-thaw cycle is an issue.

Another difference: most porcelain tiles are not glazed. The color of the tile is achieved by colored dyes that are added to the clay during manufacturing. Because of this, the same color goes throughout the entire tile, instead of being only in the glaze. So if the floor is scratched, the damage is less noticeable. The lack of glaze also allows for some subtlety in surface texture. Finer, more intricate patterns can be pressed into the tile. If glaze were added to these tiles, this texture would be lost. The lack of glaze also allows porcelain tile to look more like natural stone tile. With the addition of appropriate color and surface details, porcelain can mimic granite, marble, slate, and other stone products.

In most cases, porcelain tiles are installed like ceramic tiles. This means over a cementitious backer board and in thinset mortar. The mortar should, however, be latex reinforced. Because the porcelain tiles are so dense, they don’t absorb much mortar, so the stronger bond achieved by latex additives is required.

Porcelain Floor Tiles

Geometric Pattern

Stone Look-Alike

Stone Backsplash

Terra-Cotta Backsplash

STONE TILE

MANY TYPES OF NATURAL STONE TILES are available for residential use, both for the inside and outside of the house. The most popular are probably granite, marble, and slate. Of the three, granite is the hardest and densest. It usually comes with a polished surface that makes it water- and stain-resistant. Marble is softer than granite and slate is softer than marble. Both need to be sealed to prevent staining and water damage.

Stone tile tends to cost more per square foot compared to ceramic tile. But stone tiles have such a distinctive appearance that many people find them irresistible. The variable colors and patterns that are found in natural stone can’t be reproduced anywhere else, and no two tiles are exactly alike.

For interior use, granite and marble are usually sold with both surfaces cut smooth and at a consistent thickness. Slate is often sold with one side split and the other side (that will face down into the mortar) cut flat. This yields a somewhat rough floor surface with good traction that many people prefer for kitchens, foyers, and mudrooms. The most popular size is 12 x 12 in. But many others sizes are available for creating patterns.

Stone tiles require an underlayment of cementitious backer board and are usually set in latex reinforced thinset mortar. Most people seem to prefer very thin grout joints for granite and marble, and a wider grout joint (up to about 3/8 in.) for slate. One of the drawbacks of using stone tiles is the limited selection of trim pieces. This isn’t usually a problem on floors, but it can be more frustrating on walls and countertops.

Marble Tub Surround

Slate Entry

Tumbled Marble Walls

Stone Insets

Granite Walls

GLASS TILE

GLASS TILES,